Refrigerator lg malfunctions DIY repair

In detail: lg refrigerator do-it-yourself repairs from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

LG refrigerators have taken a leading position in this segment of technology. The company is considered a global center for innovation. All brands of refrigerators from two-door to sophisticated French and American series are made soundly, stylish design. There are almost no malfunctions of LG refrigerators during the warranty period. Often, repairs are associated with voltage drops in the network - the electronics cannot withstand. When buying a modern refrigerator model, you need to take care of installing it through a voltage stabilizer.

LG refrigerators last a long time. However, technology tends to fail over time. From the first day of operation, you need to take care of the electronic control unit and the compressor, especially the inverter one. Electronic configuration of the program requires attention. Step-by-step instructions are provided in the corresponding section of the documentation for the device.

Some models are noted in reviews as unnecessarily noisy. Part of the reason lies in the build quality at sites scattered around the world. However, the correct leveling, tightening the fasteners with your own hands, and standard ventilation gaps will partially eliminate the noise of the LG refrigerator. Repair is required when extraneous knocking, whistling or strong heating of the compressor is added to the noise.

Breakage is considered if one of the refrigerator chambers has ceased to maintain a given mode. Ice has appeared in the freezer or freezing temperatures are observed in a cold cabinet. There may be several reasons:

failures in the automatic regulation system;
failure of temperature sensors;
faulty relays;
refrigeration circuit problem associated with freon leakage or compressor failure;
malfunction of the solenoid valve in a single-compressor double-chamber apparatus.

Video (click to play).

Malfunction of the No Frost system of the LG refrigerator will let you know by a violation of the temperature regime, icing inside the cooling chamber. The air cooling system for products is complex and balanced. The complex includes an evaporator, from which cold air is blown into the freezer by a fan. Then the gas flows through the air valve to the heating of the positive chamber. Problems may be related to:

the temperature sensor in the evaporator or chambers has failed;
the fan stopped working due to icing or motor failure;
heating element does not work;
air valve not adjusted.

The appearance of ice in the freezer, "fur coats" in the refrigerator indicates a possible malfunction in the condensate drainage circuit.

Refrigerators of this series are characterized by two compartments operating from one compressor. In this regard, a magnetic valve is used that directs the refrigerant flow cyclically and alternately into the chambers. If the solenoid valve for switching modes is "stuck", then the temperature in the freezer will decrease and rise at the top. The unit is not being repaired; valve replacement is required.

Such malfunctions are typical for refrigerators, when on one compressor the mode in the chambers is independent, there are 2 control buttons. As a preventive measure, it is recommended to change the regime, with a deviation from the average values, in case of emergency and not for long.

The apparatus of the Russian assembly, two-chamber, with a "no frost" system, a large freezer at the bottom - has gained popularity in Russian families. Full Know Frost, height 188, bottom freezer, LED backlighting and trouble-free operation for more than ten years - this is how users characterize the device.

The remote control with push-button switching of modes signals about deviations on the Freeze Temp display. After turning off the power, all settings are set to the middle position.The electronic module is located in the upper part under the decorative panel. The built-in self-test mode can be manually activated, testing all systems will take 2 hours.

Typical malfunctions found during diagnostics:

the second light on the left indicates an open or short circuit in the freezer sensor;
the fourth light on the left is on - defrost sensor malfunction;
all the lights are on - No Frost is not working.

If ice is found under the bottom shelf of the freezer, the condensate drain system is clogged. To clean it, you will need to remove the decorative lining and find the drain hole. You can defrost the tube yourself. For all manipulations, the refrigerator must be de-energized.

If Know Frost works, the sensors are working properly - problems in the cooling circuit. Only a master can check the amount of freon, whether there is a passage in the capillary tube, the compressor's performance.

Model in silver color with linear inverter compressor, height 200 cm. Multi-stream cooling system and Know Frost are used. Electronic control with self-diagnostics.

Analysis of equipment failures before the end of the warranty period shows that the model is reliable and rarely gets repaired. The main causes of breakdowns:

the starting relay does not work;
the electronic control unit burned out;
the temperature sensor has failed;
the sealing rubber is worn out.

Most often, problems arise in switching the operating modes of two circuits or in the incorrect operation of the Nou Frost system. The inverter motor has a 10-year manufacturer's warranty. Continuous operation of the sealed circuit allows you to save pipe connections from starting shocks and vibrations, preventing freon leakage.

Model with a mirrored front surface, two-compartment, with a bottom freezer. Compressor one. Electronic control. Defrosting of the upper chamber is automatic, of the lower one - manual.

Refrigerators malfunctions are related to their design:

does not keep the freezer or refrigerator mode;
an ice coat is growing in the refrigerating chamber;
water accumulates under the drawers of the refrigerator;
puddles are on the floor under the refrigerator.

If the mode in the chambers is violated, one of the temperature sensors may have failed. Another reason is often a malfunction of the bypass solenoid valve. The temperature in the refrigerator can be high due to a loose door closing, worn out sealing rubber. Sometimes the contact is broken, the light in the cell is on even when the door is closed.

If you have done everything that the instructions prescribe, it remains to call the wizard. He will establish the reasons. In addition to the listed malfunctions, there may be:

Freon leak from the damaged circuit;
malfunction of the compressor or engine start relay;
blockage of the compressor tube.

The signs of problems are similar, and only a specialist can find and fix the breakdown.

Two-compartment refrigerator, beige with a quiet inverter compressor and a Nou Frost full defrost system. The freezer compartment is located at the bottom. Electronic control, push-button display. No temperature display. The backlight is produced by an incandescent lamp.

Malfunctions of the LG refrigerator of this model and their elimination are not original. But using an inverter compressor removes problems with the refrigerant circuit. Isobutane used, capillary clogging unlikely. Radiator leaks are rare. Therefore, the circuit is reliable.

The Nou Frost system, the serviceability of temperature sensors and relays, and the removal of condensate can become problematic. A specialist can determine the exact reason why it is warm in the positive chamber and ice freezes in the freezer. It is the user's task to comply with the operating conditions.

We offer you to look at an overview of the LG refrigerator model.

I'll start with general concepts, or rather, I'll tell you why in the refrigerator with the No Frost system, the cold disappears in the refrigerator compartment.If you have such a misfortune, then first of all pay attention to the freezer, or rather, how it freezes, if the food is not thawed, then most likely the problem is in the malfunctioning of the evaporator defrosting system. In order to make sure of this, you need to remove the front panel and get to the freezer itself, if I was right, then on the freezer evaporator, you will see a pile of ice, this method is suitable for those who urgently need to start the refrigerator, but for those who are not limited by time , I can offer one more diagnostic method. The second method is much easier, but this will take at least 3 days, in general, you need to do the following procedure

Feel the sides of the case → if they are hot, then it is clearly not a matter of freon leakage, and in this case, you can proceed to the next step
Disconnect the refrigerator from the mains for three days → such a long period is needed for the ice to melt on the evaporator. Be sure to open the doors to both cells
Turn on the refrigerator → time should be noted, after 2/3 hours the engine should shut off. It is advisable to put outdoor thermometers in both chambers, which show sub-zero temperatures.

It is very important that the first mode, that is, before it is turned off, the refrigerator works without food, then you can slowly load them. If in both chambers, you see a normal temperature, then do not rush to rejoice, in most cases the problem repeats. In this way, you can start the refrigerator, in normal operation, for 2-3 weeks, I think this is enough for the master to arrive or you can buy the necessary parts to replace them. Now you can start diagnosing faults, that is, we will look for the causes and eliminate the consequence, but first I recommend watching the video in which I showed how to get to the freezer evaporator and, in general, about general faults Al G. No Frost

Watch the video on how to get to the freezer evaporator in the LG No Frost refrigerator, as well as about the general breakdowns of this unit

In the video above, an electronically controlled LG refrigerator was taken as an example, and in the video below, you will learn about the malfunctions of mechanically controlled LG No Frost refrigerators. Do not pay attention that in the video, I am disassembling a Samsung refrigerator, I assure you there is practically no difference, even a defrost heater and a timer, in most cases can be installed from one model to another

Watch a video about malfunctions of the LG No Frost refrigerator with a mechanical control system

If you have not watched the video, then be sure to turn on these videos and review, because it is on them that we will rely on considering some of the malfunctions of this unit and start with the most common questions that sound in my workshop and on my YouTube channel Hello, I have a LG No Frost refrigerator, it stopped completely cooling and freezing after about a month. We turned it off and thawed it for three days, as a familiar master recommended to us. After turning it on, after 5-6 hours, the thermometer in the refrigerating chamber was +16 o C, and in the freezer +5 o C. We tried the walls of the case, they are almost everywhere in body temperature, that is, to say that they are warm or cold, we can not. The master said that there was a leak or the capillary was clogged. How do we know exactly what happened to our refrigerator?The fact that you tried the walls of the case is very good, but the fact that they are not hot is already very bad, most likely the master is right. In order to make sure that he and mine are right, you need to get to the freezer evaporator and see how the frost is distributed on it. In the photo below, you can see the first sign of a freon leak or a clogged capillary, if the same picture is observed on your evaporators, then feel free to call the masterIn the photo, the main sign of a freon leak in the LG Nou Frost refrigerator
Image - Fridge lg malfunction DIY repair

In the photo you see that something like a snowball has accumulated on the evaporator in the upper part, and the rest of the freezer has no frost at all, this primarily indicates that the refrigerant has come out or the system is clogged. In general, if after defrosting, you turned on the refrigerator and after 5-6 hours such a picture is observed, then 100%, you need to look for a leak or clean the capillary

There may be several reasons for this ailment, but first of all it is necessary to check the defrost heating element, which is located on the freezer evaporator. You can check it with a multimeter and an ordinary ringing tone, the resistance of the heating element can be different and, to be honest, I practically never pay attention to it, it is important for me that the spiral is not in a cliff

Recently, my LG No Frost refrigerator (the freezer is at the top) has stopped turning off. I properly disassembled the freezer and found a large accumulation of ice, and checking the heating element showed its malfunction, he did not call. I work as an electrician and it seems to me I can change it, but after walking around the Internet, I never saw a defrost for my model. I have such a question, is it possible to replace it with any other heating element, because as I understand it, the main thing is that it warms the evaporator, that is, that the condensate drains into the channel for water drain

The main thing is that it fits the mountings, that is, sit in those nests where the old one stood. In terms of power, they are almost all the same, I never pay attention to this. As for the wires, they can always be redone. In the video below, I explained in an accessible way how to replace a defrost heater. True, the Samsung refrigerator was taken as an example, but this is not global, the heating element in such units changes in the same way

Watch the video how to change the defrost heating element on the No Frost refrigerator

As you can see in replacing the heating element, although there are difficulties, you can still do this kind of work with your own hands, it will come out much cheaper. The main thing here is to understand that only two wires are suitable for the heating element itself, and the rest of the wiring goes to the fuse and to the control module. This video shows how I redid the wires from one model to another.I already wrote above that there are two control systems in such units. On mechanically controlled refrigerators, the defrost sensor acts as a thermostat, and on electronically controlled refrigerators, thermistors are installed, or as they are also called thermistors. The main property of a thermistor is to change its resistance when the temperature rises or falls. I have selected several questions, thanks to which I will try to reveal this topic.Hello, the refrigerator compartment does not work on my refrigerator, after opening the front cover in front of the evaporator, I found that the freezer is completely covered in ice. I was advised to replace the defrost sensor and check the heating element. I checked the heater without difficulty, but I can't figure it out a little with the sensor. Where it is located and what it looks like, I found two sensors in one silicone package. I wanted to call them, but they do not call either on Omah or MegaOhm. I have an electronically controlled refrigerator, that is, I set the temperature with the buttonsPhoto of a defrost sensor for a refrigerator LG No Frost
Image - Fridge lg malfunction DIY repair

Indeed, there are two sensors in one silicone package. One of them is a fuse, its resistance is almost zero, but the other (white), this is the defrost sensor, its resistance at room temperature is 13 kΩ

I ask for help in repairing the LG No Frost refrigerator. The problem itself is that ice constantly accumulates on the evaporator, I defrost it every two to three weeks, depending on the season. Teng checked the defrost, like a whole one, in any case, the spiral itself is not in a cliff. I can’t check the defrost sensor, or rather I don’t know its resistance, at room temperature it shows 6 kΩ, if it is heated, the value remains the same. Is it right or not?

At room temperature, the resistance of the defrost sensor should be about 13 kOhm, when the temperature rises or falls, the resistance should change. From what you wrote, the defrost sensor is unusable

I'm already tortured with my Ski, I constantly defrost it.The refrigerator is old, the temperature is set by the thermostat, the whole problem is that a month after deep defrosting, the refrigerating chamber stops working again and, moreover, the motor on the refrigerator does not turn off. In general, you have to defrost again for 2-3 days, and only then does it start to work normally

As I understand it, you have an LG refrigerator with a mechanical control system. To cope with your trouble, it is advisable to change all the mechanics, that is, the defrost sensor and the clockwork. Trust me as an experienced craftsman, replacing one of these parts may not give the desired result. The fact is that each spare part has its own resource, in your case, they have worked out this resource. Do not listen to those who will advise you to change everything individually, it is better to do everything at once and for sure. In the photo below you can see the timer and defrost sensor.

Photo of a defrost sensor for a refrigerator LG Nou Frost with mechanical control

Photo timer for refrigerator LG No Frost

This is perhaps the last malfunction on which depends how the refrigerator compartment will cool. On mechanically controlled refrigerators, the damper works independently of electricity. The fact is that it works as a thermostat, it has an accordion, into which freon is pumped, and as it cools, this accordion narrows, as a result the damper closes. In general, if we talk about a mechanical damper, then it breaks down very rarely, for all the time, I personally changed it several times and then through the fault of the household, who decided that the problem was in it and stupidly picked it out. In general, if you have a mechanically controlled refrigeration system, you do not need to touch the damper, it is better to look at the defrost system. Now you can talk about electronic control and a damper that closes or opens the air channel thanks to a motor

With my LG No Frost refrigerator, miracles are happening. In general, if you turn it on, it perfectly picks up the temperature and turns off, but then the refrigerator stops working, and the refrigerator works in 20/20 mode, that is, it costs 20 minutes and works 20 minutes. The freezer blunts normally, but the food disappears in the refrigerator, there is no cold at all, the temperature is +20 o C. I found such a thing, after the temperature is set, the damper closes and then does not open, there is no ice on the evaporator. I tried to do the following thing, took off the front cover to see how the damper closes and opens, I understand that if the door is open, it will close, so that this does not happen, I took a magnet and simulated a closed door, that is, I passed it along the case and the fan turned on, then the brains must see that the door is closed. In general, the fan works, and the damper does not open, if you push it, it makes a revolution and falls into place. Tell me where to dig

You don't need to dig anywhere, you need to check the temperature sensor of the refrigerating chamber, most likely the problem is in it or in the control module, at room temperature, its resistance should be about 13 kOhm. You can use an ordinary resistor for testing, but this is only for testing

The easiest way to determine the leakage of freon in refrigerators from L.G. is to try the sides of the case, if they are hot on both sides, then for sure there was no leak. Above, I wrote that the heat exchange condenser is hidden in the unit body, as a result, it happens that the body itself plays the role of a heat exchanger and if there was a leak, then the refrigerator would be cold on the sides. In a drip system, a leak occurs much more often than in Nou Frost, such a problem is treated by installing a crying evaporator in the refrigerator compartment, and here the masters have difficulties. The fact is that the case is all iron, and inside it there are steel tubes that act as a capacitor; moreover, wires are ripped apart inside the entire case.When making the installation of a crying board, the master must have a very great skill, that is, to know where it is possible to drill the case, and where it is impossible, but the game is worth the candle, after such a procedure, refrigeration units work for a very long time

Photo 1. How to eliminate the leak, as well as how to get to the defrost heater and defrost sensor in the LG refrigerator with a drip defrost system

Photo 2. There is a sore spot in LG No Frost refrigerators. There is a steel tube under the condenser, although it is hidden in a cambric, it still constantly decays

As in the case of the crying system, to determine the leak in these installations, you just need to try the sides of the refrigerator, if they are hot, then there is probably no leak. During my many years of practice, I very rarely encountered such a malfunction, the capillary was mostly clogged, but as they say, horseradish radish is not sweeter. The fact is that with a clogged capillary, the symptoms are practically the same, that is, the frost disappears in both chambers. In order to finally make sure there is a leak or not, you need to turn off the refrigerator for three days, be sure to open the doors to both chambers. After defrosting, you can turn it on and if in 2-3 hours the refrigerator picks up frost, as if nothing had happened, then we are talking 100% about the malfunctioning of the defrosting system of the freezer evaporator. Below you can watch a video where I am repairing a similar refrigerator.

Further we will talk about electronics, or rather about sensors, defrost heating element and in general about general malfunctions

In refrigerators with a crying system, this is mainly due to a freon leak or a clogged capillary. Sometimes it happens that the thermostat does not work correctly, that is, the compressor very rarely turns on, in refrigerators with electronic control, the role of a thermostat is played by a thermistor, which changes its resistance when the temperature rises or falls. To check the thermostat, you need to get to it and close the contacts that fit to it, if you see a green wire with a yellow stripe or a yellow wire with a green stripe, then move it aside, this is a ground wire, the rest of the wires can be bridged, so the thermal relay is checked not only in the crying system, but also on Nou Frost. By bridging the contacts, we turn on the motor directly, that is, we check its operability, and we also draw conclusions on the thermostat, if the engine starts and starts working, then it is intact, and the thermostat needs to be changed.

I have an LG refrigerator, water is running down the back wall in the refrigerator compartment, or rather, it was running down. Now the refrigerator does not work, or rather, it works, but only 6-8 hours, then it costs. I have to constantly unplug it from the outlet, and then turn it on, this process has already got me. The display shows the normal temperature, although in the refrigerator the cold disappears almost to the end, in the freezer it is kept at the expense of the products. What could be the reason and what to do

Such a malfunction can only be eliminated by a master who has certain skills. Most likely you have an electronically controlled crying defrost refrigerator. In these cold weather, on the weeping evaporator, there is a defrost sensor and a defrost heating element, in “photo 1”, which is located at the very beginning of the article, you can see how to get to these details. Here you must understand that you have to cut off the iron back wall of the refrigerator body with a grinder, then pick out the foam and only then can you replace the defrost sensor or defrost heating element. You can check these parts on the control unit, the wires from the heating element and from the sensor are suitable for it. Teng is checked by an ordinary ringing, and the sensor by a change in resistance, at room temperature, the resistance of the sensor is 13 kOhm

Photo 3. Frost on the freezer evaporator

Here you need to understand that all electronics work to ensure that the correct process of defrosting the freezer evaporator takes place in the refrigerator. In No Frost units, it is very easy to get to the sensor and defrost heating element, you can see it in the video above. Then I will try to tell you how to determine the malfunction of the sensors and what indicates their breakdown, for this I took one of the comments on my channel, this is perhaps the most asked question. Here I will try to give an answer to it.

The refrigerator compartment in my refrigerator stopped working. The freezer seems to freeze well, in any case, the food has not melted, but the refrigerator compartment does not get cold at all. I have a dry-freeze refrigerator, that is, Know Frost. On the advice of friends, I defrosted it for three days, after which it started working fine, but after 2-3 weeks, everything happened again. We do not understand what is the matter

First of all, you need to get to the freezer evaporator, it is quite possible that strong ice has accumulated on it, this is the reason that the cold air stopped flowing into the refrigerator compartment, see “Photo 3”. There are usually several reasons for this behavior, I mean, the lack of the required temperature in the refrigerator compartment. Be sure to watch the video, this is necessary so that you understand where the sensors and heating elements are

In this article, I gave only general concepts about breakdowns in LG refrigerators. With the development of the site, I will try to reveal as widely as possible the topic of repairing these units. Most importantly, you must understand that if you have a refrigerator with a Know Frost system and it somehow began to work incorrectly, then just take it and defrost it for three days, just such a long period of time is needed in order for the accumulated ice to melt in the freezer evaporator. As for the repair of LG refrigerators with a drip defrost system, there are only three problems: a leak, a thermostat, and a motor. Follow the development of the site, I think you will emphasize something you need

The refrigerator most often breaks down at the most inopportune moment. What was the reason, how serious the breakdown is, how it can be fixed - the summary table of refrigerator malfunctions will help to answer these questions.

Classic refrigerator (without No Frost system) works as follows:

The motor - compressor (1), sucks in gaseous freon from the evaporator, compresses it, and pushes it through the filter (6) into the condenser (7).
Freon heated by compression in the condenser
cools down to room temperature and finally turns into a liquid state.
Liquid freon, under pressure, through the opening of the capillary (8) enters the inner cavity of the evaporator (5), turns into a gaseous state, as a result of which, it takes away heat from the walls of the evaporator, and the evaporator, in turn, cools the inner space of the refrigerator.
This process is repeated until
reaching the temperature of the evaporator walls set by the thermostat (3).
When the required temperature is reached, the thermostat opens the electrical circuit and the compressor stops.
After a while, the temperature in the refrigerator (due to external factors) begins to rise, the thermostat contacts close,
using the protective and starting relay (2), the electric motor of the motor-compressor is started and the whole cycle is repeated from the beginning (see point 1)

Now that we are familiar with the refrigerator device, we propose the following sequence of actions:

Try to identify the problem. in the vast majority of cases, this is not difficult by following the instructions for troubleshooting.

If possible, repair it yourself. A person who is familiar with the device of the refrigerator and has a minimum set of tools is able to eliminate most of the malfunctions not related to depressurization of the system.

If self-repair is not possible, choose a company, determine the cost of repairs and call a master.

At the end of the repair, adhere to the recommendations for operating the refrigerator.

The sequence of actions to identify the failed part and recommendations for repair. For compressor refrigerators without No Frost system.

Check the voltage in the outlet, it should be in the range of 200-240 Volts, if this is not the case, the refrigerator is not obliged to work (although it may work for a while, especially the old models.)

All repair work must be carried out with the refrigerator unplugged and defrosted!

a) Check if the light inside the refrigerator is on, if it used to be on, but now it is off - there is a malfunction in the power cord or electrical plug (this is a fairly common malfunction and it is not necessary to call a refrigerator repair technician to fix it).

b) If the light comes on, the first thing to do is to check the thermostat:

- we find two wires suitable for the thermostat, remove them from the terminals and connect them together. If
the refrigerator will then work - we change the thermostat and the repair is completed.

c) If the thermostat is working properly. In the same way, we check the button for defrosting the refrigerator.

d) For further diagnostics, you will need an ohmmeter. We disconnect and call the starting and protective relay (they can be assembled in one case), if we find an open circuit, we replace the defective part.

e) The electric motor of the motor-compressor remains, it is difficult to replace it without the participation of a specialist, but since we got to it, it is worth finding out what exactly the malfunction is. There may be three defects in this unit:

- winding breakage;
- turn-to-turn closure of the winding;
- short circuit to the motor compressor case;

How to identify them is generally clear: all three contacts of the electric motor should ring among themselves and not ring with the case. If the resistance between any two contacts is less than 20 ohms, this may indicate an interturn closure.

f) If you carefully completed the previous points and did not find a malfunction, this most likely indicates oxidation of the contacts in one of the connections of the refrigerator electrical circuit. Carefully inspect and clean all the contact groups that you disassembled, restore the refrigerator circuit in the reverse order - the refrigerator should work.

1 - electric motor
motor-compressor
1.1 - working winding
1.2 - starting winding

3 - thermostat contacts

10 - defrost button

11 - protection relay
11.1 - bimetallic plate
11.2 - relay contacts

12 - starting relay
12.1 - relay coil
12.2 - relay contacts

a) Defect in the bimetallic plate 11.1 of the protective relay: determine the malfunction and replace the part.
b) Defective coil (or other current sensor) 12.1 starting relay: determine the malfunction and replace the part.
c) Breakage of the starting winding of the electric motor 1.2: we determine the malfunction and call the repairman of refrigerators to replace the motor-compressor.

a) Freon leakage: Determined as follows - if the compressor is running and the amount of freon is normal, the condenser should heat up, touch it with your hand (carefully, it can heat up to 70 degrees), if after prolonged engine operation it remains cold, then the system is depressurizing ... Disconnect the refrigerator from the network and call the wizard.
b) Violation of the thermostat regulation. The device can be temporarily replaced with a known good one, if the refrigerator works in normal mode - return the faulty thermostat for adjustment.
c) Decreased performance of the motor-compressor. This is a hard-to-diagnose malfunction, call the wizard

a) Violation of the thermostat regulation. The device can be temporarily replaced with a known good one, if the refrigerator works in normal mode - return the faulty thermostat for adjustment.
b) The rubber of the refrigerator door seal has lost its shape and elasticity. If the door does not close tightly, warm air will enter the refrigerator, the temperature regime will not be maintained and the motor-compressor will work with increased load. Carefully inspect the seal, defective - replace. (see also next point)
c) The door of the refrigerator led. The door geometry is adjusted by changing the tension of the two diagonal rods located under the door panel. For more information on how to adjust the door, see Removing gaps in refrigerator doors.
d) Decreased performance of the motor-compressor. This is a hard-to-diagnose malfunction, call the wizard

a) If the refrigerator turns off from time to time, but the temperature in it is too low - slightly turn the thermostat knob counterclockwise, if this does not help - see Violation of the thermostat adjustment
b) The fast freezing button is forgotten in the pressed position - turn it off.

Many malfunctions that subsequently lead to costly repairs to the refrigerator arise as a result of improper operation of the unit. Here are some simple tips:
a) If the refrigerator has been turned off for any reason, wait five minutes before turning it on again. This process can be automated, see the timer to delay the inclusion of the refrigerator

b) If the refrigerator has been defrosted, do not load it with food before it runs empty for one cycle and turns off.

c) Do not set the thermostat pointer further than the middle of the scale, this will not give a significant gain in temperature, and the engine will work in a tense mode.

d) On some refrigerators, a “crying evaporator” is located in the back of the refrigerator compartment (on the back wall). Do not lean food against it and do not forget to clean the water drain underneath.

e) When defrosting the refrigerator, it is unacceptable to pick off the ice using hard objects, defrost only with warm water.

f) On some refrigerators there is a “quick freeze” button (usually yellow) this button closes the thermostat contacts and the engine runs without shutting down. Do not forget this button is pressed.

g) Do not store vegetable oil in the refrigerator, oil is not required, and the rubber of the refrigerator door seal loses its elasticity.

h) Do not place the refrigerator near heating appliances.

The reason for the appearance of water in the refrigerating chamber is defrosting, as a result of improper operation or loss of tightness. Even a small puddle is a bad sign. The refrigerator has time to thaw and flow - look for leaks, as a rule, the sealing rubber does not fit tightly in the door. However, the reason may be trivial, the refrigerator doors were not closed tightly.

Despite the fact that modern refrigerators are quite reliable and capable of serving for several decades, they also periodically fail. It is worth solving problems with household appliances right away. Some problems can be dealt with on their own, while others require specialist intervention.

Typical problems that you can deal with on your own include:

the appearance of extraneous sounds and rattling;
insufficient or strong cooling of food;

But the serious problems that require the intervention of professionals include:

current piercing through the casing;
turning off the device immediately after turning it on;
the formation of a snow cap on the back wall;
stopping the operation of the motor - compressor;
lack of cooling.

Most often, no matter how trite it may seem, the rattling of the unit is caused by an incorrectly adjusted suspension of the compressor casing. To solve the problem, it is enough to lower the suspension bolts with springs to the required level.

Also, equipment rattling can be caused by contact of the product body with pipelines.This is solved by detecting problem areas and moving the tubes. Relays can also cause jitter. To fix the problem, it is worth making sure that it is located correctly and according to the special labels.

If the refrigeration equipment begins to freeze strongly or weakly, you will need to check several indicators at once:

Sometimes consumers are faced with the problem that refrigeration equipment is electrocuted. This can happen both during his work and in a calm state.

Attention: using a device that shocks is dangerous to life. Unplug it immediately and either fix the problem yourself or call the wizard.

To fix the problem yourself, you will need a special device - a megohmmeter, with which the insulation resistance of the refrigerator wiring is measured. The workflow will look like this:

Disconnect the unit from the mains and check the wires for visible defects.
If you haven't noticed any flaws on the wires, you will need one more device - "Ground". Its wire is connected to the body of the refrigerator, and the second wire - "Line", to the wire of the refrigerator. The “Line” wire is alternately connected to the thermostat, relay and compressor wires, and excessive resistance will be displayed on the screen.
After the location of the malfunction is calculated, the damaged wire will need to be replaced with a new one or carefully insulated.

The refrigerator can start to work continuously if the room temperature rises constantly or the thermostat knob is incorrectly set. Under these conditions, the equipment will operate at full capacity. If the thermostat is set correctly, and the unit operates at full power without interruption, it means that it simply failed and must be replaced. Also, a problem in the constant operation of the compressor motor may be a refrigerant leak. This can only be determined using a special device. It is impossible to repair the equipment on your own without the skill and necessary consumables. It is worth contacting the workshop here.

The thermal relay is often triggered for various reasons:

increased voltage in the electric motor circuit;
the relay is loose;
relay contacts oxidized;
there are faults in the starting relay;
the compressor is seized.

Important: most often the thermal relay often trips due to an increased voltage in the motor circuit. If the problem is not eliminated in time, its winding will burn out.

You can try to fix the breakdown by checking the voltage in the electric motor network. If stable, check the relay. For this, the motor is connected directly without a relay. If, after the performed manipulations, the equipment starts to work properly, you will need to replace the relay.

Sometimes in two-compartment refrigerators, excess moisture appears on the walls in the form of drops of water or a snow coat. This can happen due to long open doors, or if the seal has lost its elasticity. It can also be provoked by the fact that hot food is placed in the unit. Correcting this situation begins with checking all the settings in the cooling system.

Quite often, in modern models, a fur coat on the walls appears when the internal lighting is turned off. It is impossible to see if the backlight is on after the door is closed. To check if the light is on or not, place a thin object between the equipment wall and the seal and close the door. Through the resulting gap, you can determine whether the light is on or not. If it does not light up, then repair the lighting system or replace the button - the switch that comes out of the wall towards the door.

If, after connecting the unit to the network, it does not make any sounds, then the refrigerator does not work completely. This is most often due to the lack of current in the power supply network or to the failure of the refrigerator cord.If there is current, simply replace the cord or plug.

If the refrigeration equipment works, but with a short cycle, this can provoke:

high pressure;
the presence of air in the system;
excess freon;
relay actuation;
dirty fan;
failure of the fan.

For troubleshooting, you need to check if the fan is connected correctly. If there is a small amount of air in the system or there is an excess of freon, they will need to be vented through the valve. Remember to check the condenser for dust contamination. Frequent activation of the low pressure switch leads to clogging of the filter or damage to the expansion valve. In this case, you just need to clean the filter or replace it with a new one, check the relay settings.

Moisture can collect on the bottom of the refrigerator due to the tube misalignment or clogging. You can cope with a breakdown quite quickly if you clean the pipe that leads water to a special receiver using a long and flexible wire. The wire is inserted into the tube and moves along the hole to the bottom of the unit. After a few minutes of the working process, all the debris will go into the water receiver.

Caution: To completely clean the tube, it is best to douche it several times.

An unpleasant smell appears in the refrigerator from improper use. To do this, it is not recommended to place products with a pungent smell in it without special containers, wipe the walls of the device in time and monitor its cleanliness.

If, however, an unpleasant odor still appears in the device, you must quickly get rid of it. Since this will have a bad effect on all the products that are stored in it. This process can take several hours of your free time:

Disconnect the unit from the network and leave it for a while. If ice has formed on the walls, it is not recommended to remove it by force. Since we can cause mechanical damage to equipment.
After the equipment is completely defrosted, we wipe its walls with special means. Powder abrasive mixtures should not be chosen. Better opt for helium pastes.
Wipe the refrigerator dry with a clean cloth, ventilate it for 5-10 hours.
We plug the unit into an outlet and continue to operate it.

In some models of refrigerators, light bulbs in the backlight often burn out. Replacing them should not be difficult. It is enough just to unscrew the bolt holding the cover, remove it and unscrew the burned out light bulb. In its place, a new lamp is screwed in, the power of which should not exceed 15 W., and fix the shade in place.

Before proceeding with the repair of refrigeration equipment, it is necessary to diagnose it in order to understand whether it is possible to cope with the breakdown on its own or it is worth resorting to the help of specialists.

To diagnose equipment at home, you will need to prepare a universal tester and a screwdriver. Diagnostics begins with determining the quality of the voltage in the network. If it is 220 W, then everything is normal. If the voltage is less than this indicator, this can become the main reason for the failure of the household appliance.
Next, we carefully examine the cord and plug of the unit for integrity. It should not have defects, it should not heat up during operation.
Next, we inspect the terminals on the compressor. It is better to do this with the equipment disconnected from the network.
We inspect the compressor, which is located at the lower rear of the refrigerator. It must be free of defects and damage. After visual inspection, we check the winding. Disconnect flexible wires before inspection. It is necessary to check the winding circuit for continuity using a tester.
After that, you can proceed to diagnostics of small parts - the temperature sensor. To do this, use a screwdriver to remove and disconnect the wiring. Each wire is tested for functionality with a tester.

All malfunctions of refrigeration equipment are divided into two parts:

The inner chamber is not cooled during normal engine start. Most often, the breakdown lies in the main components of the equipment.

The unit does not turn on or turns on for a short time and then turns off. Here, the problems are associated with a malfunction of the electrical circuit of the household appliance.

In the first case, only highly qualified craftsmen should be engaged in repairs, since diagnostics and repairs can only be carried out with the help of special equipment and long-term skills.But if the electrical mechanism of the unit is out of order, then you can solve the problem on your own - after carrying out diagnostics, identifying the causes of the breakdown and replacing the failed spare part.In conclusion, I would like to note that every unit, even from a world-famous manufacturer, may stop working at some time. To repair a refrigerator, you need to figure out what the matter is, purchase the necessary part and stock up on free time. If you do not have special experience in the repair of household equipment, it is better to contact the masters of their craft, who will solve all problems quickly and efficiently.DIY installation of screw piles: performing installation calculations, installation rules. Design features and advantages of screw piles.Description of the principle of operation and the device of the pumping station, characteristics of the main types of breakdowns, do-it-yourself repair. Replacing a failed membrane. System installation and operation manual. Image - Fridge lg malfunction DIY repair