Honda crv 2000 DIY repair

Details: honda crv 2000 do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Documentation (manual) for the repair, maintenance and operation of Honda CR-V 1995-2001 model years with right and left hand drive, 2.0L B20B or B20Z engine, automatic or manual transmissions; The manual is also suitable for Honda Odyssey which have similar units, components and mechanisms.

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A high desire for automation and as easy as possible to facilitate the work of a motorist has led to the emergence of mini-washes. A good mini-wash can be a good gift or your favorite car accessories. The prospect and demand for high-pressure cleaners among potential ones does not subside. Practically all the world's leading companies are engaged in the production of household-class mini-washers. Their assortment arriving in specialized stores never ceases to amaze.

Question:
How widespread is the practice of concluding operating and leaseback lease transactions at the present time, based on your practice?
Answer:
To date, very few leaseback transactions have been carried out. There is also a certain risk for the leasing company, both financial and property.
With a positive credit history in a leasing company with an impeccable payment reputation, it is possible to provide clients with this type of leasing.

Briefly the rules (for those who did not read the rules during registration, and who reads them?) :))

Honda CR-V - technical section of forums>
Therefore, the topics here are of a purely technical nature. Messages in threads should also not stray far from the topic of the topic.

Before creating a topic, type your question briefly in the search for the section Honda CR-V. as a rule, your question has already been discussed at some point and should not be repeated. You can search for a similar topic in the list of topics below this post.
Make the topic as informative as possible, for example, not “Help with the rail”, but “Help with the rail on RD1”.
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Video (click to play).

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It is considered good form to indicate brief information about your car (body, engine, transmission) in the signature. and also in the column "address" its habitat.

F.A.Q. is in a state of formation, oh discussion here: Discussing F.A.K.

General reference branches (collection)

Catalogs of modifications HONDA CR-V

Info from the section Honda-general questions (a lot of useful):

Links to third-party resources:

The self-diagnosis connector is located on the passenger side .. on the right under the torpedo (or on the left at the feet, next to the computer, in a green case) We need a 2-pin connector to read the codes ..
To read self-diagnosis codes:
1) close the contacts of the 2-pin connector with a paper clip / wire ..
2) turn the ignition key, but don't start the engine ..
3) we read the error codes by counting the flashes of the warning lamp (Check Enj, ABS, SRS, etc.) according to the rules: long periods of flashes - tens, short - ones ..
Example: ABS lamp flashed for a long time 5 times and shortly 3 times = error code - 53 ..
4) go here:
code plate
5) choose HONDA ..
6) in the input field, drive in the error code (example 53) and press the "Decrypt" button.
7) We look at the decryption results and select the code of the corresponding system that generated the error (in our case, ABS) ..

Search results for Code 53 meaning:
Motor stuck on

Good afternoon, everyone. Please help me solve the problem. I changed the cabin filter. Something worked inside the console, like a relay, after which it stopped starting, the gas pump does not work, the engine, gearbox is not diagnosed when the ignition is turned on. Now you turn on the ignition, the starter turns, but does not start. Tell me what could have happened? Thanks in advance.
1999 Honda CR-V RD-1, European.

Good time to all! The problem "not start" is resolved! The whole problem was in the inertial sensor, which is triggered by any impact, be it an accident (pah-pah-pah), but more often when the right side hits a hole, or, as in my case, when hitting the console :-)))) The problem seems to be not serious, but dangerous if you do not know about it, on the track and even in winter. I found it, pressed the button with the rubber cap on top and it all worked right away! Where is it - see the photo. Good luck to everyone on the road, thanks for the tips!

Miniatures

On the first body, we check the coil like this

the rest is also not difficult - we know how to poke a tester to measure voltage and resistance. Yes, even though the control is ultimately low-power - if the coil is intact, then we check the pulses from the switch to it, if there is nothing we check the switch inputs. If there is OK and there are pulses when scrolling, then we change the commutator, if there is nothing there, then we climb further to the brains and the hall sensor. But I remember that a hall sensor malfunction should be fixed by self-diagnosis - check the light bulb, look at the engine. But the coil and the commutator does not catch - if the jamb is with them, then the light will not light up most likely.

Viscosity is not a measure of quality.

API is not just a quality mark.

It is not always possible to save money.

All three "whales" of the classification of motor oils are interconnected. For example, if according to API the oil belongs to a class not higher than SH, then according to ACEA it cannot correspond to energy-saving classes A1 or A5, since the requirements for energy saving appeared only starting with class SJ. At the same time, if according to ACEA the product has class A5, then according to API it must comply with SL, since only classes of this level have resource requirements for extended mileage between oil changes. Another connection is that universal oils are divided into two classes: gasoline and diesel, both according to API and ACEA.
The viscosity grades of oils are also related to the ACEA classification of motor oils. Typically, energy-saving classes A1, B1, A5 and B5 correspond to high-temperature ratings of 30 and below (for example, 5W-30, 10W-30, etc.). And oils with an indicator of 40 and higher (for example, 5W-40, 15W-50) correspond to classes A2, A3, B2, B3, B4, that is, they are not energy-saving.
Viscosity - internal friction or resistance to fluid flow. This characteristic is the most important physicochemical property of the oil, which influences the friction force. There are two indicators: kinematic and dynamic viscosity.
From changing places ...

The order of the S and C categories in the index is not random. If the label says, for example, "SJ / CF", it means that the oil is universal and intended for gasoline and diesel engines, but is preferable for use in gasoline. If on the contrary - "CF / SJ", then this is a universal product, more focused on diesel engines.

Now about the application. Oil For "Zhigulenka" or automotive engine oil for an old foreign car (70s - 80s) oil with SAE - 15W-40, API - SF / CD or SG / CD, ACEA - A2 / B2 is quite suitable. If you plow the vast expanses of your homeland on a front-wheel drive VAZ or on a foreign car of the 90s, choose oil according to SAE 15W-40 or 10W-40, according to API - SH / CF or SJ / CF, according to ACEA - A3 / B3. For engines of the latest cars, the oil parameters should be as follows: SAE - 5W-40 or 0W-40, API - SL / CF, ACEA - A3 / B3 / B4. Please note that this list does not mention energy efficiency classes and standards.Their application is specific. Therefore, if you want to know exactly which oil is recommended for use in your car, take a look at the owner's manual. If it is not there, before buying, do not be lazy to open the catalog for the selection of oils and find your model there, in order to consciously control the process of the correct selection of lubricants in the future.

According to ACEA, motor oils are divided into three classes: A - oils for gasoline engines; В - oils for diesel engines of low power (Light Duty), installed on cars and trucks of light carrying capacity; E - oils for powerful diesel engines (Heavy Duty).

Honda CR-V / Odyssey Mark I (RD1 / RD2 / RD3) with petrol engines: B20B / B20Z 2.0 l (1973 cm³) 128-150 HP / 94-110 kW; Operation manual, maintenance and repair, technical specifications, color photographs and electrical diagrams, car care, device, malfunctions and ways to eliminate them, diagnostics, design features. Illustrated edition of the off-road passenger car Honda SyRV (Odyssey) compact crossover with all-metal monocoque bodies five-door station wagon with increased capacity front- and all-wheel drive models with left and right rudder of the first generation from 1995 to 2001

Video Honda SR-V since 1995 replacement of the front brake pads and valve cover gaskets / replace valve cover gasket (Honda CR-V mk1)

DESCRIPTION OF THE CONSTRUCTION
The Honda CR-V is a four-wheel drive passenger car with a steel all-metal monocoque body of the station wagon type. The car has all-wheel drive, but when driving on roads with good grip properties, the driving wheels of the car are only the front ones. If the front wheels slip, the rear axle is automatically engaged. In addition, the car has a large ground clearance, which allows you to move confidently on country roads and off-road.The steering is a "gear-rack" type with a hydraulic booster. The braking system of the car is equipped with ABS. There are vehicle modifications for countries with right-hand and left-hand traffic (the steering wheel is located on the left or right side, respectively).The cars were equipped with a 2.0-liter engine of the B20B and B20Z models or their modifications. The vehicle systems are described in detail in the respective chapters. The book examines the features of operation, design, maintenance and repair of Honda CR-V 1995-2001 cars. release.The main attention is paid to regular maintenance, identification and elimination of possible malfunctions, as well as care of various vehicle components. For convenience, all regular maintenance operations are shown in sequence according to the mileage and age of the vehicle.• Cover the fenders with a cloth to prevent damage to the paintwork.• To avoid damaging the wiring, remove it carefully by grasping the connector.• Label all electrical wiring and hoses to avoid misconnection. Also make sure they do not come into contact with other electrical wiring and hoses or interfere with other components.1. Lock the hood in the open position (fix the support rod in the lower hole).2. Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery first, then from the positive one.4. Remove the cover from the intake manifold.5. Disconnect the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor connector (A) and remove the breather hose (B), then remove the air cleaner housing (C).8. Remove the throttle cover (A). Open the throttle rod and cruise control rod fully by hand, then disconnect the throttle cable (B) and cruise control cable (C) from the rods. Loosen the locknuts (D) and then remove the cables from the bracket.7. Disconnect the battery cables from the underhood fuse / relay box, then remove the harness clips (B) and disconnect the ground cable (C).9.Disconnect the ECM / PCM connectors (A) and the main wiring harness connector (B). Left-hand drive models10. Remove the harness clips (A) and rubber grommet (B), then pull the engine harness out through the bulkhead.11. Relieve fuel pressure.12. Disconnect the fuel supply hose.13. Disconnect the hose (A) from the carbon filter (EVAP) and the vacuum hose (B) from the brake booster.14. Remove the clutch slave cylinder and clutch line bracket (MCP).15. Remove the gear shift cable and the selector cable (MCP).16. Remove the power steering pump (P / S) drive belt.17. Remove the power steering pump (P / S) without disconnecting the hoses.18. Remove the radiator cap.19. Raise the winch to its full height.20. Remove the front wheels.21. Remove the dirt deflector.22. Loosen the radiator drain plug, drain the engine coolant.23. Drain the transmission fluid.25. Disconnect the connector (A) of the primary heated oxygen sensor (primary H02S) (except for the K20A5 engine).26. Disconnect the secondary heated oxygen sensor (secondary H02S) connector (B) (KE, KG, KS, KR, KU, KZ, KQ, FO models).28. Separate the propeller shaft from the transfer case (4WD models).29. Disconnect the stabilizer links.30. Disconnect the lower suspension arm ball joints.31. Remove the drive shafts. Apply clean engine oil to all components. Place plastic bags over the ends of the drive shafts and tie them.32. Disconnect the gear shift cable (automatic transmission).33. Disconnect the lower hose.34. Unscrew the mounting bolt (A) of the ATF filter (automatic transmission).35. Disconnect the ATF cooler hoses (B), then plug the ATF cooler hoses and pipes.37. Disconnect the upper hose (A) and heater hoses (B).38. Attach a lifter (commercially available for models supplied to EEC countries) to the engine as shown in the illustration at the top of the right column.39. Remove the gearbox support mounting bolts / nuts.41. Make sure the winch brackets are installed correctly. Raise the winch to its full height.42. Remove the rear support mounting bolts.40. Remove the upper bracket fixing bolt and nut.Repair manual, device, maintenance and operation of cars Honda CR-V from 2000 release,The manual includes detailed information on how to diagnose and repair vehicle components and assemblies. Particular attention is paid to the repair of the engine, gearbox, cooling system, heating, ventilation and air conditioning, transmission, brake system, steering, suspension, braking system, body, electrical equipment.Large file. Almost 300 MB? Is it a scanned book? Image - Honda crv 2000 DIY repair

Self-replacement of drive belts on a Honda CRV (Honda SRV).

This vehicle has three drive belts, and they wear out during operation. There are different signs of worn drive belts, let's look at some of them.

When a cold car engine is started, a squeak of a belt, as a rule, indicates wear or a weak tension of the alternator belt, squeaks when turning the steering wheel, or turning all the way in either direction, indicates wear or a weak tension of the power steering belt. A squeak when the air conditioner is turned on, respectively, indicates wear or insufficient tension on the air conditioner belt. Belts are replaced in the following order: power steering belt, air conditioner belt, alternator belt.

1. We loosen the two 14 mm bolts shown in the photo, move the power steering pump down, and remove the first belt.

2. Using a jack, raise the front, left side and remove the wheel.
3. Remove the plastic boot by unscrewing a few caps.

4. Also, using a 22 mm and 14 mm wrench, we remove the additional engine support.
5. Using a 14 mm wrench, loosen the air conditioner tensioner roller mounting bolt. Then, from above, under the power steering pump, unscrew the 14 mm lock nut, the roller tension rod.And with the help of the head, a 7 mm wrench, we loosen the tension rod of the air conditioner roller, remove the belt.

6. To remove the alternator belt, loosen the upper 12 mm nut and the lower 14 mm, the alternator mounts. We move the generator to the engine. and remove the belt.
Dimensions of belts for Honda SRV (Honda CRV) - 4PK820, 4PK841, 4PK890.

We install the belts in the reverse order, tighten the alternator belt so, using the assembly, we pull the alternator, and at the required belt tension, fix it by tightening the 12.14 mm nuts. We tighten the air conditioner belt using a roller, the power steering belt, you can also tighten it using a fitting.

It is important not to overtighten the belts, during the tension, you can see how to properly tension the drive belts in our video.

I am the owner of a 2003 Honda CRV-II car. And in a middle-aged car, various minor technical problems often arise. So, the central locking began to fail, namely: when you close it with the alarm key fob, the door lock buttons went down and immediately rose - the car remained open. After observing the behavior of the buttons, I came to the conclusion that the main lock (which is located in the driver's door), as it were, does not have enough power to click to the end, and it returns to the open position, signaling the rest of the locks to open as well. After a while, the situation worsened - the doors stopped opening, since the main lock had no longer had enough strength to lift the lock button. Moreover, if you lower and raise the main lock button manually, everything worked fine. It became obvious that there are at least three options for solving the problem:

replacement of the assembly blocking the driver's door;

repairing and cleaning it;

“Prosthetics” with an additional electric actuator.

The first option was not suitable due to cost - the price of a new part was about 3,500-4500 rubles. The second also did not fit, because the valiant Japanese make such knots practically non-collapsible, and all maintenance is done at their own peril and risk. How long the part repaired in this way will last is also unclear. I was just afraid to be left without a lock on the door at all. So I started to implement the third option, the idea was this: to install next to the main lock an additional actuator for the car doors that turns on in parallel with it, which will push and pull the lock button.For this repair I needed:

flat screwdriver;

crosshead screwdriver;

wrench;

knife;

drill with a drill for metal;

a door actuator with two wires and a set of fasteners (bought in "auto parts", costs about 150 rubles);

door trim clips from the domestic car industry (bought in the same place, cost about 50 rubles for a large package, are necessary to put the trim back in place, since relatives are likely to break)

two bolts with washers and nuts (also available in "auto parts", cost a penny).

We start disassembling the driver's door:We lower the glass of the door to the end, and with a flat screwdriver we break off the plastic cover under the door opening handle (from the inside, of course):Then, using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the two screws under it:We pull the handle towards ourselves and see a metal rod, pushing the mount with the same screwdriver, remove the handle from the rod:Unscrew the screw on the casing in the corner under the large handle:We unscrew the same screw from the opposite side (it is not visible in the photo, but it is there):Gently bending the latch of the control unit with a flat screwdriver around the perimeter of the latch, pull it up:And remove the terminals (by pressing on the latches of the terminals with a screwdriver):The door trim is now held only by clips. We remove the plastic triangle from the mirror, simply pulling it towards ourselves, pull the trim out of the slot where the glass is lowered. and we begin to pick out the door trim, helping with a screwdriver - sometimes a rather large effort may be required and the clips break. They say that there is a special puller, but unfortunately I did not have one in stock. Therefore, I stocked up on clips from Lada Kalina or Priora, which came up like family.Having completely removed the trim - do not forget to remove one more terminal going to the button for opening the trunk glass.As a result, you should see the following view:The dust protection keeps on sticky mastic, and it is easy to remove and put in place, it is much more difficult not to get dirty:We need to fix our actuator on the door, as a rule, it comes with such a special bar, which we will bolt to the door with bolts. To do this, we need to drill one hole, since for the second attachment point, a ready-made hole from the clip holding the wiring harness of the door lock is suitable:We pull the clip out of the hole and fasten the bar:We disconnect the lock terminal, to which two wires fit, and empirically match them with the wires of the new actuator, achieving correct operation (when the signal for opening is given, the actuator jerks up, lengthening, to close - it shrinks. We strip the wires, twist and insulate. in place:Bending the thrust of the actuator, we achieve its maximum parallel position relative to the thrust of the door lock button, and fasten it with fasteners from the kit:We check the operation of the system, make sure that everything works and assemble the door in the reverse order. That's all. I think this repair will be enough for a long time.Video of the lock with an additional actuator:Engine's type: F22B6 / B20B4 / F23A7 / B20Z2 / J35A1
Engine capacity: 2.0 / 2.2 / 2.3 / 3.5 l.
Power: 126/140/150/210 HPSeries: Gold Series
Cover: soft
Format: A4
Number of pages: 406
Paper type: typographic
ISBN: 978-966-1672-03-0
UDC: 656.138 / BBK: 39.333.52
In the following online stores you can purchase a book at the publisher's price, in the shortest possible time and with the best service:

A step-by-step guide for the repair of various components and assemblies of the car

Self-service and maintenance instructions

Valuable information on vehicle design and how to prevent malfunctions

Confidence and knowledge for a trip to the service station, in case personal repair is impossible

In order to decide on the choice of a book, it is better to get to know it better. We would really not like you to buy a "pig in a poke", so we present to your attention the expanded content. The quality of illustrations is slightly reduced to speed up loading (ATTENTION! Information opens in a new tab):

Manual
General information and service
Engine electrical system
Engine and its repair
Performance and Emissions Monitoring System
Fuel system
Vehicle electrical equipment
Transmission
Suspension and steering
Brake system
Equipment and bodywork
Diagnostics and troubleshooting

Image - Honda crv 2000 DIY repair

Honda CR-V cars are popular in Russia. They can often be seen in metropolitan areas and outside cities. With proper operation, CR V rarely requires repair, which explains the popularity of the model. The main concern of car owners is the timely passage of MOT. If, nevertheless, for a number of reasons you need repair and restoration of operational characteristics, contact a professional car service.

In Moscow, a Star Motors car service works for you. Our craftsmen will repair a Honda CR V in well-equipped boxes. We employ specialists who:

gained extensive knowledge in the field of repair, maintenance, diagnostics;
studied all the features of the model;
have practical experience that allows them to perform all work efficiently and efficiently.

Our prices are always available, and with the volume of work and regular maintenance, we will definitely provide discounts that are beneficial for Honda CR V owners.

The manufacturer Honda CRV recommends showing the car to specialists once a year, or after every 10 thousand kilometers. This is a purely conditional recommendation, since the operating conditions of these cars in Russia are fundamentally different from those in Japan or Europe. Do not think that it is only about bad roads and low-quality fuels and lubricants.The climate also negatively affects the car and increases the requirements for the repair of the Honda CRV.

Our car service provides comprehensive customer service. You can order from us a wide range of professional repair and maintenance services for your car. We are contacted with questions:

diagnosing problems;
routine replacement of fluids and other consumables;
overhaul of the power unit, box and other units;
repair of suspension, steering, clutch and other important components;
exhaust, brake, fuel and other vehicle systems;
electrical restoration, electronics repair
body repair and so on.

Our services :

Fuel system

Exhaust system

Brake system

The power units with which Honda cars are equipped, despite the difference in origin (Japanese, American), have some equal weaknesses. Repair of Honda CR V may be required after using poor quality gasoline. Because of it, the injectors fail. They clog up much faster than the state should, and need flushing. Also pay attention to the following points:

At risk on the CR V are exhaust valves and other elements of the fuel system;
In terms of driving characteristics, the Honda CR-V is only a crossover, but many operate a car as an SUV. As a result, the gearbox needs to be repaired (automatic transmission, manual transmission).
The weak point of the first generations of the Honda CR V is the chassis. In new models and modifications, the manufacturer has dealt with the shortcomings. At the same time, one should take into account the quality of our roads and the weight of the body of this crossover model.
Transmission problems are quite common. It fails on pre-2001 models if off-road driving is practiced. New versions of the car are equipped with Real Time 4WD. The system is more reliable than the previous ones, however, violation of the operating rules entails expensive repairs.
On modifications made in 2002-2006, serious problems were noted with the belt tensioner for the attachment drive.
Repair of i-VTEC gas distribution systems is often carried out on the second generation of representatives of this model range. The system requires the use of high quality oil. Replacing it with a low-grade one leads to problems.

Thus, the repair of the Honda CR V RD1 and other modifications is not a very frequent event, but at the same time it is quite costly. Our experienced specialists are ready to answer all your questions and help you navigate the problems of your car.

In the vast majority of cases, tuning Honda CR V includes flashing the ECU, improving the suspension and minor modifications to the car's interior. After that, the Japanese SUV becomes much more powerful and passable, and driving it is much more pleasant and comfortable.

When it comes to chip tuning for the CR V, many car enthusiasts start to wonder. It would seem, why does the already powerful two-liter power unit need to replace the standard flashing? And the thing is that Honda SUVs produced in 2002–2014 after chip tuning increase their main indicators by almost 30%. Judge for yourself, the power of the four-valve engine in the 2002-2008 models increases from 160 to 250 hp. With. The torque in these SUVs is increased from 3,500 to 5,000 rpm. In newer cars manufactured in 2013–2014, a decrease in fuel consumption is added to the increase in engine power. After performing chip tuning of these models, their owners get an increase of 60 horsepower and plus 1500 rpm to the base 3000. As for fuel consumption, after reflashing, you can save almost 0.5 liters of gasoline for every 100 kilometers. In 2014, Honda released the CR V with a diesel powertrain that can save up to 0.8 liters of fuel by flashing it.

As we can see, there are more than enough reasons for chip tuning. But there is one small snag that often makes Honda owners refuse to replace the factory software. It's all about finding new firmware versions - a task that would seem to be easily solvable, but not in the case of SRV.To find newer versions of chip tuning utilities, it is worth knowing exactly the version of the engine control unit of an SUV. It all depends on the year of manufacture of the car. Honda models from 2002-2006 use Keihin blocks. Firmwares marked Immo Off 2010-2012 will be suitable for them. On SUVs in 2008, blocks from Keihin are also installed, but firmware developed after 2013 and always with the Immo On marking in the name is suitable for their chip tuning. The newest CR Vs from 2013-2014 are equipped with Bosch and Keihin ECUs. To achieve the maximum power gain from such units, it is recommended to use the 2015 firmware for these ECU models.

In addition to the new firmware for independent chip tuning, we will need to prepare special equipment:

K-Line adapter;
Chiploader program;
ECUSafe program;
laptop with Windows XP.

The engine ECU for the Honda powertrain is located in the interior of the SUV near the left foot of the front passenger. Unscrew the protective plastic cover and gently pull the block towards you. Be careful not to damage the wires connecting the CR V brains to the main engine components! After dismantling, put the ECU aside and proceed with installing the software. First, copy the new firmware, but do not unpack its archive. Next, install ECUSafe and Chiploader. Then, using the K-Line adapter, we connect the SRV unit to the laptop.

As soon as the computer reads the block information, the data folder will appear on the display. We open it and look for a file with the .bin extension - this is the standard utility that we must replace. We launch ECUSafe, which will help us completely erase the standard firmware and, as soon as the program informs about the deletion, unpack the new utility and install it in the same folder where the standard program is located. At this time, the Chiploader program will work, the function of which is to help calibrate the settings you are interested in. In order not to harm the Honda engine, it is worth choosing only those parameters that lag behind the settings of other systems. For example, the CR V throttle slider is offset 3 points to the left. Because of this, the part does not supply the amount of air required for the motor to operate. As a result - a decrease in the power of the latter. Therefore, the throttle slider must be moved 2 positions to the right.

Another detail that needs to be changed is the Honda exhaust system. When you move its slider 3 positions to the right, the car begins to emit more recycled gases. The third element to be tweaked is the transmission. Prior to the CR V chip tuning, it often gets stuck in third or fourth gear. To fix this, you need to move the gearbox slider 3 or 4 positions to the right.

At the end of the calibration, we agree with the warnings about the changes and start installing the firmware. This process can take 15-20 minutes if your car is 2002-2008. If you are the owner of a 2013-2014 model, then installing the utility will take no more than 10 minutes. After the message about the end of the flashing is lit on the display, turn off the control unit and install it in place. After the performed chip tuning, it will take several minutes to warm up the SRV engine, and then sharply press the gas pedal several times.

After the chip tuning, it's time to start thinking about modifying the chassis of your Honda. There are many options to improve this part of the SUV, but not everyone can afford it. But there are several ways that are not only effective, but also budgetary. These methods include the installation of autobuffers. What are these details? Autobuffers are special urethane elements, the main purpose of which is to increase ground clearance, soften suspension and improve handling. Anyone can install autobuffers, it will take about an hour.First, you need to put the Honda on a lift. Next, we prepare water with detergent and clean the SRV spring. Then we raise the axle so that the wheel does not touch the ground, and loosen the spring bolts.We check how weakened the spring - it should not dangle much. After that, we mount the autobuffer in the middle coil of the cleaned spring and tighten the mounting bolts. Once you are done with the first wheel, you can immediately start installing the “pillows” in the rest. It is important that autobuffers are installed in all four Honda wheels, otherwise you will not achieve the desired effect from tuning. You will then be able to overcome many more obstacles without risking damage to the body and the upper section of the CR V shock absorbers.The second tuning option, for which you do not need to spend a lot of time and money, can be confidently called the installation of spacers to increase the disc offset. This method is in great demand today, as with its help you get the opportunity to make Honda more spectacular and improve its dynamics.After purchasing a set of spacers, you can start installing them. The most difficult thing in this case is to clearly observe the distance between the holes and the distance from the fastener to the rim. First, you need to jack up the Honda and remove the wheel of the car. Next, we rinse and dry the standard disk and install the spacer. We fasten the part with the bolts included in the kit, and mount the wheel back. We repeat a similar operation for each wheel of the SRV.