Honda fit DIY repair

I haven't updated the review for a long time, now it's time for a big MOT, in order.:

First of all, we paid attention to the gearbox, since:

- Depressurization of the boot on the gearbox was detected. - Replacement of the boot and, accordingly, new grease.

- replacement of fluid in the gearbox (every 40,000)

In the near future, it is planned to replace the fluid in the checkpoint.

In general, a trouble-free car, there were no malfunctions for the entire period of operation.

Except for the rear right pillar, it was decided to bleed both rear pillars.

The knock disappeared, the suspension became more assembled or something.

Yesterday I sold a car, this review was written half a year after buying a car, but for some reason it was not published.

After 4 years of operation, what can I say about the Honda fit.

Was in 1 hands, was operated every day, the runs in my opinion were very modest (for 4 years almost 80 thousand km).

After some time, I still decided on 16th sneakers, I came across an option about a good price. the profile 185/55/16 (factory) turned out to be tougher than the 14th, the consumption increased, the dynamics fell, but the handling became higher and the appearance.

During the computer diagnostics of the car, deviations in the fuel supply were detected, specialists gave recommendations to check the fuel filter, fuel pump, injectors.

The fuel filter is located in the gas tank, together with the fuel pump, I decided to change them. You can get to them by removing the plastic between the front seats. As I will not tell, there is a detailed video on YouTube. A fine filter and a fuel pump with a coarse filter were purchased from the Automarket. When I disassembled and pulled out the filter, the filter was as black as coal, and in the bath there was about a teaspoon of some kind of sand.

Video (click to play).

The day off and the sun is a wonderful day!

When the seller drove the car, looking under the hood, I saw that the engine was washed and simply filled with polish. To my question “why?”, I did not receive an intelligible answer. Naturally, in 1.5 years a lot of dust settled on it, and over time it still got dirty.

In short, I decided to wash the internal combustion engine. Having monitored this process, I came to the conclusion that it is better and safer to do it yourself. I bought a product for washing the engine, took a canister of water (because there is no access to water), an empty bottle of polish (for rinsing), and the process started.

I'll leave it here. Suddenly someone will come in handy.

In the garage of a familiar phyto-grower I found a tidy lying idle. I took it for experiments. The run unwinds easily. This is if suddenly someone starts to say that the run cannot be wound up)))

Zalyuftil right wheel bearing. At first I wanted to take a contract hub from a fit, but as it turned out, hubs from GD4 are rare and cost more than from GD1,2,3. Their difference is in the size of the drive splines. For this reason, instead of the native hub, I took a pair of front hubs from the Honda Mobilio Spyke GK1. They are very popular with phyto-growers, because the diameter of the brake disc is 261 mm versus 240 for the native one, which means that the pressure area of ​​the brake pads is larger and, in theory, braking should improve. Otherwise, they bolt-on on the GD4. On the GD1,2,3 it is necessary to additionally change the drives.

It's time to re-adjust the valves. At the same time I took a picture of the condition of the valve cover and rockers after several changes of GOOD oil. Everything is as new - no coke, no varnish, no carbon deposits. Well, no oil consumption, of course. At the same time, I replaced the leaking VTEC valve gasket and cleaned the throttle and the dusty idle valve.

When stopping at traffic lights, jerks and kicks began to be felt. With such symptoms, the first step is to change the candles, check the coils and change the slurry in the variator. The fluid in the variator turned out to be sooo dirty, not naturally brown. Initially, I considered only the original replacement fluid, but its price is considerably overpriced. Therefore, I made a choice in favor of the non-original Idemistu CVTF, which is half the price of the original.The credibility of idemitsu is added by the fact that this office is engaged in the manufacture of ORGINAL lubricants for the Honda concern, which means that the quality is not worse.

Repair of Honda Fit. Big job. Part 1.

CVT repair HONDA | SWRA