Honeywell DIY repair

Help me figure it out, the problem started with the fact that through

4 years after the repair, the pressure of hot water became weak, the standard flushing stopped helping. He took off the flask, washed the mesh, collected it (additionally washed the dirt at the entrance). It got worse

, in addition to the problem of pressure and pressure, it began to undermine from under the flask, why could this be? And the situation looks like this.

The filter is set to a pressure limit of 2.5. When all consumers are turned off, the pressure gauge shows 2. I turn on hot water, the pressure on the pressure gauge drops to

Help me figure it out, is it supposed to be? Can't there be only 2 atmospheres in the hot water supply system? And why does it drop so much when you turn on hot water on one consumer? IMHO it shouldn't be that way.

In general, my head is spinning, save, help

If the diagnosis is filter replacement, tell me what? Buy the same or are there safer analogs that can be entered into the same sizes?

I continue the topic started in the article “How to disassemble the Big Blue flow-through water filter”. Today we will talk about how to disassemble, clean and make minor repairs of the Honeywell FF06-3 / 4AA wash filter with our own hands.

So here's our filter. In principle, it is a banal mud sump. Cleans water from suspended impurities such as sand and scale. The most delicious option in it is the possibility of periodic washing. But, you do not need to rinse, then it will look like this.

Just want to draw your attention to the correctness of the installation. Pay attention to the arrow embossed on the filter. It indicates the direction of the water when installing the filter. I was not at all surprised that it was showing in the opposite direction. Maybe this is a conspiracy of some kind of plumbers, but too often one has to deal with such an installation. Someone might say: "What's the difference - it's still filtered." But if there is no difference, why not deliver as the manufacturer recommends.

Before starting to disassemble, shut off the water supply. Having opened the tap on the filter, we drain the water from it. We unscrew the filter flask. A special key is sold with the filter. But, in principle, the filter can be easily unscrewed without it.

Pay attention to the sealing gum, it may remain inside the filter cover.

We take out the filter element.

We remove the mesh from the filter element. Rinse carefully and thoroughly. A toothbrush is ideal for cleaning.

After flushing, we assemble the filter element back, not forgetting about the gaskets.

This filter had one problem. It was constantly leaking below. Clients called me in to replace him. I suggested that the filter should be simply repaired.

At first glance, it seems that it is leaking from the tap. Having carefully examined the faucet, I found out what was flowing under the clamping nut.

The nut is unscrewed as follows. A hole for a hexagon is visible inside the flask.

Then everything is simple. Insert the hexagon inside and unscrew the tap with the key, then the nut.

There is a paronite gasket under the nut. I don't know why, but it turned out to be very thin. The nut did not squeeze it and held water only due to the tightness of the connection.

Having rummaged in my miracle bag, I found the same pad, only thicker.

We assemble the filter in reverse order. We tighten the nut and the tap. Insert the filter element inside the flask, with the rubber band down. Do not forget to install a sealing rubber on the top of the filter flask.

The flask is screwed to the lid by hand. No special effort is required.

P.S. What if you need advice or consultation?

... Subscribe to the pages of Electro-Plumbing, there is a lot of other interesting information that did not get on the site.

All the best! Good luck!
Vladimir.

Modern gas boilers are quite sophisticated technological equipment. With proper care and proper handling, the gas boiler will serve for a long time without any interruptions.However, even the most expensive and functional equipment has its own resource, after the exhaustion of which all sorts of malfunctions begin to appear.

DIY gas boiler repair

Knowing the main causes of malfunctions and the procedure for eliminating them, you can repair your gas boiler with your own hands. This is a very painstaking, responsible, but in most cases relatively easy job.

Contents of step-by-step instructions:

First of all, it is necessary to establish why any malfunctions may occur in the operation of gas heating boilers. A number of different factors can lead to problems.

Modern gas boilers are equipped with various automation equipment. These funds, in turn, are powered by electricity. And, despite the fact that the 21st century is already in the yard and systems for the use of alternative energy sources are being actively developed around the world, the problem of stability of power grids remains relevant for many regions, especially for remote villages and all kinds of summer cottages.

A sudden power outage or a strong surge in electricity is one of the main enemies of any modern gas boiler.

To avoid all the accompanying troubles, buy a quality stabilizer in advance. Do not spare money to buy this device - there is little sense from cheap models, so it is better to immediately allocate funds to purchase a good stabilizer from a well-known manufacturer. Be sure that in the event of a breakdown of the automation, you will spend much more money on its repair and replacement.

At home, wall-mounted models of gas boilers are often used. Such devices are simultaneously responsible for both space heating and hot water preparation.

The design of wall-hung boilers includes a flow-through heat exchanger. Low-quality hard water with various impurities is the main enemy of the heat exchanger of a gas boiler. At the same time, under the influence of low-quality water, the heat exchanger can fail in just one season.

Install special filters to prevent such damage. The best option is a complete water purification system. With it, your boiler will work as long as possible, and using purified water is much safer for health.

Any knowledgeable person will tell you: only qualified specialists should be engaged in the installation and piping of gas heating equipment.

Even the slightest mistakes at the stages of installation and connection of equipment can lead to irreversible consequences. For example, an incorrectly executed piping in the case of a cast-iron gas boiler more powerful than 50 kW will lead to the fact that the unit will simply split at low temperatures.

If you are not an experienced gas operator, entrust the boiler installation to professionals.

Therefore, if you are not an experienced gas operator, entrust the installation of the boiler to professionals - this way you will save yourself from many problems in the future.

Unfavorable weather conditions can also lead to the appearance of many different problems. In frosty winters, people turn on the heating at almost full capacity. This leads to a significant decrease in pressure in the gas pipeline system. As a result, boilers cannot fully realize their potential.

You will not be able to solve this problem on your own - you still cannot explain to your neighbors that by their actions they only aggravate the situation. As a solution to the problem, you can install an additional boiler that runs on a different fuel.

Automatic solid fuel coal-fired boiler with hopper

A modern gas boiler is a complex and potentially dangerous system.The main danger of such units is the risk of a gas explosion in the event of improper handling of the equipment or untimely elimination of various malfunctions.

Various kinds of automation are responsible for maintaining the operation of the gas boiler at an optimal level. An inexperienced user is often unable to understand its device. Therefore, it is better to immediately invite specialists to troubleshoot serious problems.

On your own, you can try to eliminate only visible damage and various contaminants that have led to the failure of the pipe, chimney and other parts of the boiler.

Typical malfunctions of gas boilers

There are a number of typical problems that you can fix yourself in most cases. Problems will also be listed, in the event of which you can only protect yourself before the arrival of a specialist.

If a distinct smell of gas or smoke appears in the room, immediately turn off the boiler and leave the room, opening it for ventilation.

Gas boiler functionality diagram

Call a professional immediately. Trying to solve the gas leak problem on your own without the necessary skills is extremely dangerous and unreasonable.

If the flame sensor or the gas supply pipe breaks down, turn off the boiler, close all gas valves and let the unit cool down completely.

Return to the area after a while to check for the smell of gas. If everything is in order with the draft, try to turn on the boiler again. If there is no thrust, immediately call a repairman.

Overheating is one of the most common problems in modern gas boilers. The reason for this may be a malfunction of the automation equipment or a clogged heat exchanger.

It is impossible to cope with the repair of automation without the appropriate knowledge.

You can also clean the heat exchanger with your own hands. The most common materials for the manufacture of heat exchangers are copper and stainless steel. There is usually no problem cleaning them, but be extremely careful anyway.

Primary heat exchanger for wall mounted gas boiler Beretta

According to the recommendations of the manufacturers, the heat exchangers must be cleaned of soot every few years (each manufacturer indicates a specific interval in the instructions for their equipment).

Primary heat exchanger (heating circuit) of the gas boiler Rinnai SMF

To clean the heat exchanger, simply remove it and clean it thoroughly with a metal brush. In the case of a copper heat exchanger, it is best to replace the brush with a metal sponge used for washing dishes.

The problematic place of fans is their bearings. If the fan of your boiler stops developing the set number of revolutions, try to eliminate the problem as soon as possible.

Fan (3311806000) for Daewoo gas boiler

To do this, remove the back of the fan, take out the stator and lubricate the bearings. Machine oil is fine for lubrication, but it is best to use a higher quality carbon compound with heat-resistant properties if possible.

Fan RLA97 (Aa10020004) for gas boiler Electrolux

Also, an interturn short circuit can lead to problems with the fan. Only a specialist can cope with the elimination of this malfunction. Return the stator for repair to replace the winding, or immediately replace the faulty unit with a new device.

Gas boiler chimney diagram

Often, excessive clogging of the coaxial chimney leads to the appearance of various malfunctions in the operation of a gas heating boiler.

Remove the chimney and thoroughly clean all of its components from soot. So you will not only return the previous level of efficiency of the unit, but also significantly increase the efficiency of the boiler.

The boiler can shut down spontaneously for several reasons. This usually happens due to a malfunction of the combustion sensor. This problem, in turn, most often leads to contamination of the gas pipe.

Draft sensor 87 ° C for Thermona boiler

Remove the branch pipe, rinse it thoroughly with water, clean it with a cotton swab and blow it off the remaining moisture. Put the pipe back in place and try to turn on the boiler. If it doesn't help, call the wizard.

No wonder they say: the best repair is prevention. Gas boilers require annual preventive maintenance, which must be carried out before the start of the heating season.

Whenever possible, maintenance should be carried out twice a year, before and after the heating season.

Check all the previously discussed boiler elements for their serviceability. Follow the preventive maintenance recommendations given by the manufacturer in the instructions specific to your boiler. Eliminate any malfunctions that arise in time, if possible.

Remember! A gas boiler is a potentially hazardous equipment. Incorrect use and untimely troubleshooting can lead to irreparable consequences. Therefore, be careful and do not engage in any repair work if you doubt your ability and correctness of action. Otherwise, follow the instructions provided.

During a very long operation of the Honeywell filter, the stainless mesh is gradually "overgrown" with the smallest particles of scale and rust, which are only partially washed out when the direct or backwash mode is turned on.

Due to deposits formed on the surface of the filter mesh, the mesh size gradually decreases, and accordingly:

• The performance of the Honeywell filter is starting to decline.
• The water pressure in the water supply system begins to drop.

If forward / back flushing does not provide complete cleaning of the filter mesh from accumulated contaminants, there are two ways to restore the normal water pressure in the tap.

The easiest, fastest, but at the same time also costly way is to replace the old Honeywell filter mesh with a new one.

A slightly more difficult, but free way is to independently clean the mesh from accumulated dirt.

If the water pressure in the tap has dropped significantly, and the reason for this is a clogged Honeywell filter screen, you need to follow a few simple steps.

Before inserting the cleaned mesh back into the bowl, it is advisable to remove the sludge and sediment from the inner surface of the bowl.

In order to significantly facilitate the process of cleaning the Honeywell stainless mesh from contamination, it can be left “soaked” for several hours / days in a concentrated solution of citric acid (20 g per 200 ml).

• Citric acid will "eat away" the accumulated deposits, and will provide maximum mesh cleaning, almost to its original state.
• While the mesh is "self-cleaning", the filter bowl can be screwed to the body, and then resume flow not filtered water.

In cases where the supply of unfiltered water is not permissible, it is necessary to buy a spare Honeywell mesh and install it in the filter bowl when the first filter mesh is in the process of "self-cleaning".

Even if you do not have the skills to service Honeywell filters, cleaning the mesh from stubborn contamination will not take much time, but it will eliminate the additional costs of periodically purchasing a new mesh.

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  Igor Shubin at his site in the village "Lesnoye"

  Igor was looking for a forest suburban area, and among others he got this one. And not only is it an impassable forest, but also in the middle of the site - 6 meters of slurry from a small stream. Because of this swamp, the future owners could not cross to the other side of the site to inspect the boundaries of the property.

  

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  SB3 posted a blog post to Interesting by SB3, Oct 7, blog post

  Greetings, I will continue what I started in the entry “Electrician. How things really are. ”.

  The record will be gradually updated). "Pictures" will be

  A certain Italian concern produces boards for Ferroli gas boilers. The boilers themselves are positioned on the market as economical, budgetary devices. Unfortunately, all the benefits from the purchase of such a boiler, as well as the economic effect of its use, are eaten up by a periodic annoying nuisance - the Honeywell-DBM01 control board fails with enviable constancy in the boiler, or rather, the 24V power supply on the FSD210 microcircuit orders a long life.

  There are many supporters and opponents of this microcircuit, personally, when faced with the repair of these boards, I prefer to power the board from a more reliable source so that people do not chatter in the cold because of the "good" microcircuit, which decided to give up at the most inopportune moment.

  I will not scold the Italians, who probably made a fortune in the production of such junk, after all, they help our repairmen to survive in difficult Russian conditions, who fight 50-80 green rubles for the repair of the board, with the cost of the new board about $ 450.

  I'll just tell and show how this board can be revived without resorting to the services of the service:

  I omit the moments of dismantling the board and the need to first turn off the mains power, since anyone who is familiar with the soldering iron understands this, and I categorically do not recommend getting into the boiler electronics for others!

  So, we have a board with a power supply torn to shreds. To begin with, without regret, remove all the elements of the power supply from the board from the input filter to the output capacitor.

  There is no need to try to check the removed elements for serviceability - as a rule, most of the parts, including the transformer, are damaged. Others may have hidden defects, so go to the trash! It is convenient to “blow off” surface-mounted elements from the board with a soldering hairdryer at 300 ° C. Next, the board must be cleaned of soot and burnouts using a scalpel and alcohol.

  The next step is to decide which power supply we have in stock, if there is a 24V 200mA power supply unit of a compact enough size - you are especially lucky! Such a block can be mounted directly on the board by soldering to the 220V points and to the output filtering capacitor. In my case, it was not so lucky ... But there was a power supply from an old dot matrix printer with an unpronounceable name. On the board of a fairly high-quality power supply, the voltage I needed was found, and judging by the size of the Schottky diode, the current significantly exceeds the minimum 150mA.

  We will make an external power supply, there is more than enough space in the boiler. In order to eliminate errors during connection and for the efficiency of installation and assembly, I mount the connectors for connecting the power supply on the board. The 220V connector of the 4P-2.5XH brand fits very conveniently into the holes of the dismantled line choke, while using the two outer pins.

  For the low voltage I used a 4SP2.5 connector. For ease of installation, the output filter capacitor was removed and a connector was installed in its place. Removing the capacitor will not entail negative consequences, since there is already a capacitor in the power supply used.

  Next, we solder the wires with the mating connectors to the power supply unit, while trying, of course, not to confuse the polarity of the output voltage. I placed the block itself in a piece of plastic cable channel as a body.

  And one more small note: These blocks DO NOT WORK without connecting the mains voltage, which is sent to the controller in the form of a signal through an optocoupler. For this reason, do not try to connect the boiler via UPS, pulse stabilizers and other nonsense that significantly distorts the shape of the mains sine wave!

  for some reason I do not remember that the honeywel corporation was engaged in the production of BOILERS))
  safety blocks and automation - but not boilers (assembled)

  WHAT IS THE MODEL OF THE BOILER AND WHY TO KNIT TWO BOARDS IN A PILE.

  About the model, it is just clear to everyone except Voffchik - the author of the topic.

  
  This model is usually called FERROLI DOMIPROJECT.
  View his profile for interest. We will be ashamed to stand next to him.

  I am sorry, the title was corrected (I was distracted)

  The boiler, of course, is Ferroli.
  1. Why knit 2 boards in a heap? To see if a non-working one is tested when power is applied, since a stabilized 24 volt power supply is not available.
  2. Why not apply a working one? She is already working at the moment) It's just that the one that burned out worked for 2 months, and the winter is not over yet

  By the way, I already changed the SHIMK on it (fortunately, everything else turned out to be whole, one might say the owner got off with a slight fright)

  Well, who will say what, you can do it or not.

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  Site> - the leading Internet project dedicated to the reconstruction and interior design of residential premises. The main content of the site is made by the archive of the magazine Ideas for Your Home - exclusive author's articles, high-quality illustrations, practical advice and lessons. A team of professionals is working on the project in close cooperation with renowned designers, architects and leading experts of the publishing house.

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  The average recovery time of an electronic module during repair is 1.5 hours during the day. Be sure to contact us before leaving for us!

  Faulty control board in your gas boiler?

  Call us or order a call back and our specialists will restore your electronic module with a 24 month warranty. 80% of gas boiler control boards that we repair are restored by us within 1.5 hours, including testing at our stand, and Viessmann, Protherm, Vaillant, Buderus, Bosch, Thermona, BAXI and Ferroli boiler boards - 95%. Our experience: more than 1000 refurbished control boards for gas boilers from different manufacturers, more than 300 boards and modules for diesel, electric and pellet boilers, more than 200 EBMPAPST turbines for condensing boilers, various servo drives and other products with IGBT speed control. We also restore electronic control boards of any equipment. We have been restoring electronic modules of gas boilers since 2015.

  When repairing, we carry out diagnostics of the module as a whole, according to all the main indicators regarding the design features of your module and the elements used during their implementation. We do not limit ourselves to eliminating a specific, identified cause of the malfunction, we change all elements of the board that have the property of "wear and tear" and therefore we call our repair restoration. The module is tested several times at our stand in the course of our work. The elements we use have MTBF times higher than those set by the manufacturer. That is why, in our case, we do not recommend buying used control boards instead of faulty ones (some sell them as new), but we recommend that you restore your electronic module with us. We confidently give a two-year warranty for a remanufactured module based solely on our experience and our work with it.

  Some recently completed works:

  

  

  The restoration of electronic boards on gas boilers with a capacity of up to 100 kW and above, at the level of replacing submodules and elements, with fault tolerance, reliability of the safety circuit, characteristics and tasks that the manufacturer has defined by his terms of reference and design solutions for this board, should be carried out by a specialist with sufficient technical knowledge and qualifications. We adhere to this position when repairing any electronic modules, on any equipment.

  Some reasons for the malfunction of the control board and other modules of the gas boiler:

  Failure of board elements, including microcontrollers and chips, is possible as a result of direct and indirect causes and factory defects.

  For three years of work, we have compiled a short list of the main malfunctions of electronic control boards and gas boiler units, with which we had to work more often than others and which the user can observe with his eyes. For each of these malfunctions (errors), we have restored dozens of products. Here's the list:

  Viessmann Vitopend, Vitodens: F05, F04, does not turn on and there is no indication, there is no heating start; Viessmann Vitotronic: does not turn on and there is no indication on the display, incorrect indication of sensor readings and burner activation, errors on sensors and on communication with actuators; Vaillant: F26, F28, F29, Con, does not turn on and there is no indication, rupture of the cases of the power supply elements; BAXI Ecofour Mainfour Luna and others: E00, E99, E98, E35, E01, does not turn on and there is no indication; BAXI Main / ECO 5: no heating start, E01, E22; Ferroli Domiproject: does not turn on at all, ignition error, cyclic restart during ignition; Ferroli Domiproject D, Pegasus D and others: A / E / F 04, 01, 05, does not turn on and there is no indication, errors in the parameters of the incoming power supply; Beretta: A01, does not turn on and no indication; Viessmann furnaces: does not turn on, goes into an ignition error after the appearance of the pilot flame; Various furnaces and ignition units Honeywell, Brahma, SIT, etc .: does not turn on, there is gas - no spark, no gas - there is a spark, a flame appears and goes out after a few seconds, then goes into lockout, the unit turns on and off without blocking after some time without gaining the desired temperature; Condensing boilers BAXI HT, Viessmann, Vaillant with EBMPAPST turbines to the above: the fan / turbine does not turn on, the fan turns on, but there is an error on the boiler due to the lack of the required number of revolutions or to turning on the fan, errors in the parameters of the incoming power; Thermona: E01, E08, does not turn on and no indication, cyclic restart during the ignition phase; Protherm KLOM / KLZ 17: does not turn on and no indication, F01,the boiler turns on but does not start; Protherm zoo: does not turn on and there is no indication, rupture of the housing of the power system elements, errors on ignition, overheating and other errors.

  This is far from the entire list of signs of real malfunctions of gas boiler boards and not the entire list of equipment with which we had to work.

  What actions do we perform:

  1. We carry out diagnostics.

  2. We establish the causes of the malfunction and faulty elements.

  3. We eliminate the cause of the malfunction, and if the cause was external, we determine the actions for the customer to eliminate and prevent the occurrence of this cause.

  4. We install elements of the highest quality to increase MTBF significantly.

  5. We test and test the board at our own stand in the course of our work with it.

  Please note that almost always in the event of a control board malfunction, the service organization shrugs its shoulders and informs that repair is impossible due to various “reasons”.

  "Charring" of elements, traces of burning on the board in 95% of cases are not the impossibility of repairing the board.

  If we delve into the technical details, then in our experience only two to three percent of cases of damage to the board with the failure of the microprocessor (chip) are tracked, while in total more than five hundred products have been restored, even in the most sad cases - thunderstorm (lightning), connection phases to the sensor input, strong heating of the chip as a result of a malfunction of external elements, etc.

  A chip, also known as a microprocessor, a microcontroller, is the main element of your board. This is what determines the safe logic of your boiler, primarily responsible for the gas safety of your home. Any manufacturer programs the microcontroller on its board with copy protection. it is his intellectual property. If we talk about repair, then the programming of the microprocessor is used only if it is replaced. The probability of replacing the microprocessor when repairing your board is no more than 1.5%. We do not replace chips if we do not have a chip programmed at the factory or programs (memory dump, “firmware”) for this chip from your motherboard manufacturer. We do not use files taken from where. Therefore, in the event of a chip malfunction, which is very unlikely, for some manufacturers we will recommend replacing the control board rather than repairing it.

  You will see some of the consequences of an illiterate, irresponsible quick repair here.

  From the repair, we release a completely serviceable product that meets all the characteristics and tasks that the manufacturer has defined for this product.

  We do not change the board constructively, we replace faulty and poor quality elements with the best elements in relation to this design solution, new ones of the highest quality.

  We provide a two-year warranty on remanufactured products.

  The cost of work on the restoration of the gas boiler control board will not exceed 4500 rubles.

  Visit of a specialist for diagnostics and start-up: 4500 rubles. (Due to the heavy workload, departures are rarely carried out and only in the Yaroslavl direction of the near Moscow region)

  When performing repairs on the day of contact, please note that preparing a stand for testing your device will take several tens of minutes - there is no universal stand or boiler for testing dozens of models of boards from different manufacturers. The average time to complete an urgent repair is 1.5 hours, including testing.

  The cost of repairing electronic boards for climatic equipment for buildings and structures will not exceed 40% of the board's market value.

  For the regions we work through the CDEK company, Russian Post.

  Payment is made upon completion of the repair.

  Consultations and recommendations on starting the boiler after repairs and preventing the occurrence of other malfunctions in the boiler electronics are provided free of charge.

  Additional recommendations for specialists on the link

  Here you can see how modern stabilizers "work"

  

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