Hotpoint ariston dishwasher do-it-yourself built-in repair

In detail: hotpoint ariston dishwasher do-it-yourself built-in repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Ariston Hotpoint dishwasher errors: interpretation of error codes, recommendations for troubleshooting

The developers of Ariston Hotpoint dishwashers have thoroughly thought out not only the design, but also provided for the possibility of prompt detection of malfunctions in the operation of equipment. Equipment of this brand signals about impending breakdown, "reports" about violations of different meanings. The code displayed on the panel gives the owner the right to decide whether the service center or he himself will be engaged in repairs. Convenient, right?

How the Ariston Hotpoint dishwasher errors are determined, you will learn from the article presented by us. It describes in detail what the code laid down by the engineers warns about. It is thoroughly described what you can do on your own to correct the situation, and when it is better to contact the repairmen.

The author gives the subtleties of diagnostics, gives advice, upon adherence to which the risk of breakdown and failure of the machine is sharply reduced. Photos, video recommendations and reviews are used as a useful informative addition.

The PMM Ariston has a self-diagnosis system. As soon as the control module detects a malfunction, it immediately terminates the execution of the program and displays a hint code.

Let's consider the most common mistakes - from easily fixable to requiring specialist intervention.

This code indicates a loss of tightness in the PMM joints. If you look inside the dishwasher, you will surely find water on the pallet and a floating "float", which sent a signal to the control board about a malfunction under the code 01... On devices without a digital screen, light bulbs will blink: for machines with 4 programs, the first diode will blink, for a model with 6 modes - the third from the left.

Video (click to play).

What should be done:

Disconnect the device from the power supply. If the water is already on the floor, you need to act carefully so as not to step into a puddle.
If the protection is triggered when the tank is full, press the drain program and wait until the chamber is empty.
Close the water supply valve to the PMM.
Inspect the rubber band on the appliance door, check the hose connections, the condition of the clamps and all accessible components. If you find a leak, try tightening the parts or renewing the seals. It is better to replace the failed consumables, hoses and rubber band.
With long-term operation, corrosion of the working chambers can become the cause of depressurization. Although high strength steel is used in the Ariston Hotpoint models, leaks cannot be ruled out. In this case, the worn out places are treated with special sealants and soldering.

If it was not possible to find the culprit on your own, you will have to call a wizard with a repair kit, who will diagnose and help establish the cause of the car stopping.

Cars with 4 modes without a display will be signaled by the flashing of the second from the left diode, and those designed for 6 - by the fourth. The first thing to do in case of an error 02 - make sure that there is water in the system, but for some reason does not flow into the device. To do this, you can simply open the tap at the nearest water intake point. It does not hurt to check the shut-off valve if it is installed separately for the PMM.

Causes of error 02 and their elimination:

The system has low pressure, i.e. water flows from the tap under a weak pressure. A machine with such power is not enough, and it will not work.In this case, you just need to postpone washing the dishes until a normal flow occurs.
The door latch is broken, so the device does not start the program, so as not to create a flood.
The inlet filter or inlet hose is clogged with various impurities found in the tap water. In this case, you need to unscrew the inlet hose, make sure that it is not pinched and is working properly. Then rinse it and the protective mesh under high pressure.
Supply valve problem. If the blockage is not detected, and water does not flow into the machine, most likely, the voltage required from its opening / closing has ceased to flow to the water supply valve. In 99% of the reason for such a breakdown is power surges. In this case, it is better to replace the part with a new one and connect the device through a stabilizer.

If the machine is under warranty, it is better to contact the service center to replace the defective elements.

Long-term working machines have one of the most frequent breakdowns under the code 01 may indicate worn fasteners in the internal spray system. It is easy to repair such damage yourself.

To check the state of the system, you need:

Remove the lower basket of the dishwasher - there is a lower spray arm under it. Its blades need to be unscrewed and removed.
Now inspect the fastener - essentially a plastic or metal ring that could be cracked or otherwise damaged. If problems are found, it is better to replace the mount (and the sprinkler itself) by unscrewing the old fasteners with a wrench, and then installing a new holder.
The upper spray arm is attached to the upper basket. To get to it, you need to pull out the tray, squeeze the stops and unscrew the rotating blades.
Here you need to check the sealing rubber ring, the fastening nut and the water supply channel, if necessary, replace the broken elements and reassemble the system.

The reasons for the failure of parts are most often scale, penetration of small objects or natural wear and tear during active use. But such a repair is quite simple to do with your own hands, the main thing is to find an exact match of parts for your PMM model.

Often the reason for stopping the machine is blockages from food debris on the dishes. If the drain hose, pump or branch pipe is clogged and the maximum allotted time for removing water is exceeded - the machine will signal in numbers 03... In machines without a display, this will be a simultaneous blinking of 1 and 2 or 3 and 4 diodes (for 4 and 6 programs, respectively).

In this case, you first need to make sure that the hose is passable - it may simply be pinched or clogged with a food waste "plug", as a result of which the pump cannot push the waste water into the sewer.

If checking the filter and hose did not help solve the problem with the drain, the reason may lie in a malfunction of the drain pump. The condition of its connections and wiring is checked with a multimeter. If the voltage indicator is insufficient, the part needs to be replaced.

Also, the cause of problems with the drain can be:

A break in the wiring leading to the pump - you need to "ring" and, if necessary, solder the contacts.
Penetration of a small object into the pump impeller - the part is disassembled and the interference is eliminated by mechanical cleaning.
Breakage of the water level sensor or clogging of its tube - you need to check the voltage and, if necessary, clean the part.
Malfunctions of the pump triac on the control module - the element must be replaced with a new one.
Incorrect connection of the drain hose. Some models have a special code for this error. A14, which is displayed if the waste water, instead of going to the sewer, is returned back to the machine.

The most difficult case is a board failure. But sometimes the problem can be solved with the help of a simple "resuscitation" of the electronics - disconnect the device, give 10-20 minutes to rest and reboot.

But even if this method worked, the failure can repeat itself at any time, so it is worth contacting the specialists for examining and flashing the board - perhaps the contacts have moved away or the module tracks need to be re-soldered.

If you notice that the machine washes dishes with cold water, the problem most often lies in a malfunction of the heating system. It is easy to detect a malfunction: the body of the device remains cold throughout the entire cycle, and traces of grease, food and coloring drinks remain on the dishes themselves, which are usually easily removed with warm water.

AL04 - malfunction in the supply circuit of the NTC temperature sensor. For machines without a display, this will be the signal of diode no. 3 or no. 5 (for 4 and 6 programs, respectively). In this case, disassembly of the machine is required, inspection and verification of the voltage at the sensor contacts.
AL08 - malfunction of the heating sensor (blinking of 4 diodes). If the PMM signals a sensor malfunction, this does not mean that it is out of order. The part may be loose on the tank or there may be an open circuit in the circuit from the module to the sensor.
AL10 - problems with heating elements (simultaneous blinking of 2 and 4 or 4 and 6 diodes). The causes of malfunctions may be an open circuit in the circuit of wires leading to the heating element, a burned out relay on the control module, or the combustion of the heating element itself. These failures are common in hard water areas. In this case, you need to disassemble the machine, check the wiring, and possibly replace the heater or module.

Since the repair of the heating system requires dismantling, disassembling the device and professional diagnostics, you should not start it yourself without a decent experience in working with electronics. In this case, the most correct solution would be to contact the Ariston service center.

But sometimes problems with the heating system can be the result of improper operation. For example, if the machine is not properly connected, it will constantly draw and drain water, not having time to heat it up - alas, such cases are not uncommon, if you entrust the installation of the PMM to an inexperienced master. The solution here is obvious - to dismantle and reconnect the device.

Another easily fixable problem is filter clogging, as a result of which water circulation deteriorates, and the heater simply does not turn on. Therefore, before contacting the service center, try to clean the filters, hoses and check this guess.

Removing blockages and replacing worn gaskets is a task that does not require special skills and special tools. But when the electronics or the main components of the device fail, you have to partially disassemble the machine and know how to properly dismantle and check its elements.

Serious malfunctions in the dishwasher, requiring a mandatory call from a certified service technician, include an error 06 - violations in the supply circuit of the bay valve. The video will acquaint you with the features of identifying and eliminating a breakdown:

AL07, AL08, AL09 - errors in the operation of the control unit.
AL10 - problems with heating elements or intake valve electrics.
AL11 - failure of the circulation pump, which supplies heated water to the spraying system. If this part is broken, the machine will collect water, heat it up, but during the washing phase it will turn off.
AL99 - means that there was a break in the internal wiring or damage to the network cable. Requires checking all wires or replacing the Control Unit.

When such errors appear, the first thing to do is to clear the filters and reboot the system. If you know how to handle a multimeter, check the resistance of the thermistor, heating element, circulation pump and inlet valve. But the problem of such failures is that any foreman for each of these errors will even give a guess about a dozen possible failures. Therefore, it is still better to carry out a complete diagnosis of the device.

The author of the video tells in detail about the causes and methods of eliminating breakdowns, indicated by code numbers 10 and 11:

Although the Ariston Hotpoint is a very reliable dishwasher, operating errors can damage it too. And in order not to become a regular customer of repair shops, you just need to follow a few tips that will extend the service life of the equipment.Recommendations for use:

Ariston Hotpoint has filters that purify water from various impurities. To avoid clogging, they must be cleaned in a timely manner.

It is recommended to install a grease filter at the sewer inlet to avoid external blockages.

To make the machine easier to operate, wipe the dishes with a napkin before loading to remove any food debris.

If hard water flows in your water supply, use special softening salts or install a special filter at the inlet to the PMM.

Do not use soaps, shampoos or other substances not suitable for dishwashers as detergents.

Do not overload the dishwasher with items.

Rinse and dry the tablet tray every time you start the machine.

Place the cookware so that it does not touch or block the spray arms.

And the last tip - at least once a month, arrange a "day of cleanliness" for your assistant, running her at idle mode along with a cleaning and disinfectant.If you are good at repairing household appliances and are going to troubleshoot the dishwasher with your own hands, then you should give it a try. True, there is a sure way to avoid such troubles - compliance with the operating rules.How to properly care for PMM to avoid damage:

Disconnect the rubber fasteners of the heater and remove the heating element.

Tip: To make the correct wiring, take a photo of the connectors before removing the item from the slot.

Run the clipper after the repair to test the new element.

When water does not enter the Ariston dishwasher, or, conversely, is constantly being poured, check the intake valve. The part cannot be repaired, so you will need to disassemble the PMM:

Remove the side or back panel (depending on the model) of the dishwasher.
The valve is located just behind the inlet hose.
Unscrew the valve fasteners, disconnect the wiring.

For replacement, a part is selected for a specific model of a dishwasher.

The pressure switch could also break. The reasons for its breakdown are natural wear and tear, burning of contacts, blockage in the pressure tube.

How to disassemble the car and get to the sensor:

Access the bottom of the dishwasher.
Find the level sensor. It looks like a box of pipes.
Remove the two mounting bolts.
Remove the tube from the box using pliers.
Examine the reservoir (box) for pressure.
Check the electrical part of the pressure switch by measuring the resistance at the contacts.
If broken, install the new part in reverse order.

It is not difficult to make a replacement with your own hands. Be careful, follow the recommendations.

Below are instructions for replacing the drain pump (pump) of the dishwasher. In this repair, the main thing is to properly disassemble the dishwasher.

Open the hopper door of the machine.
Empty shelves and baskets out of the bin.
Pull out the bottom filter as well as the metal mesh.
Unscrew the inlet hose.
Putting the machine on its "back", remove the bottom cover. To do this, unscrew the screws around the perimeter.

Disconnect the wiring connectors from the pump.
Use pliers to open the drain hose clamp. Disconnect it from the pump.
Unscrew the fastening screw, remove the pump assembly.
Reinstall a new pump with a rubber seal. Connect the wiring.

Note that there is a circulation pump (motor) next to the drain pump. If the pump only drains water, then the pump drives it through the car, delivering it to the sprinklers.

If PMM "Ariston" does not wash the dishes, the reason may be in the wash pump. We have described how to get to the drain pump above. Then do this:

Remove the drain pump first.

Disconnect the pump motor wiring.
Release the motor mount.
Release the metal hose clamps that attach to the circulation pump (three hoses in total).

After pulling it out of the body, you need to remove the spring at the bottom and rearrange it to a new part.
Turn the spring clockwise and remove.
To install a new engine (wash pump), you need to remove the old hose clamps and install new ones.
Fix the device in the reverse order.

So you can independently cope with the repair of the Ariston brand dishwasher. Pay attention to the operation of your equipment, if you notice deviations - conduct an inspection.

The breakdown of the dishwasher causes a storm of unpleasant emotions, forcing the owners to wash the dishes by hand, albeit temporarily. The first decision that comes to mind is to call your friends. There is a possibility that they faced such a problem. Alternatively, you can start looking for a solution to the problem on the Internet. That is why we decided to write an article on how to repair Ariston dishwashers. Let's figure out what most often fails, how to fix the malfunction, in which cases it is easier to contact the master.

Ariston dishwashers are similar in design and repair features to such Bosch and Electrolux dishwashers. However, not always the breakdowns that happen to the "Bosch" can happen to the "Aristons". Of course, as in other equipment, dishwasher parts are subject to wear and tear, but still the following malfunctions most often occur in Hotpoint Ariston dishwashers:

failure of the heating element, which can lead to poor-quality dishwashing, as well as knocking out plugs of the electrical network;
water intake into the machine is very slow or absent, the reason for this is a blockage or breakdown of the filler valve;
drainage of water with a non-stop set, this malfunction is also a consequence of a breakdown of the filling valve or water level sensor;
the dishwasher emits unusual noise and sounds, this indicates either a blockage of the rocker arms inside the tank of the machine, or a malfunction of the circulation pump;
a water leak in the machine informs about a breakdown of the drain pump, a leak in the hose or a loosely closed door;
the lack of drainage also indicates a breakdown of the drain pump and clogged filters.

Important! If you try to solve any problem with the dishwasher that is under warranty, you will void the warranty service.

A malfunction of the heating element in Ariston dishwashers is most often manifested by the appearance of an unpleasant odor. In this case, there may be no error on the display of the machine, the water heats up to the desired temperature, the machine works normally, the dishes are well washed. In fact, the appearance of the smell alone should be a warning to you of danger. After all, this is the smell of burnt wires, further melting of the insulation can lead to a short circuit and a fire.

What is to be done in this case? Let's describe all the actions in sequence:

First, the dishwasher must be disconnected from the electrical network, water, sewer and pulled out for ease of operation.
Next, disassemble the walls, if any, if necessary, marking with a marker where the screws should be, this will help not to get confused during assembly.
Under the soundproofing material of the right wall of the Ariston dishwasher there are wires going to the flow-through heating element, they need to be inspected for burnout.
The heating element itself is located on the side of the bottom and looks something like in the photo, usually the terminals of the heating element burn out, circled in a red circle. You cannot replace them separately, so you will have to completely change the entire ten.
Having released the clamps, you need to remove the heating element and connect a new one in its place, this should not cause any difficulties.

Important! To secure the new heating element, you will need four new clamps, since the old ones cannot be reused. Self-replacement of this unit will cost you about 3000-4000 rubles.

After installing the heating element, it is necessary to run the shortest sink. To check the tightness of the connections and how the machine works.

If everything is in order, then assemble the dishwasher and put it back.

In the event of a malfunction of the filling valve, water is constantly drawn into the machine and immediately drained, or water does not enter the dishwasher at all. The contacts in the valve can burn out, the performance of which is checked with a multimeter, or the shutter can jam in the "open" or "closed" position. In both cases, the valve will have to be replaced. This is not difficult to do.

The water inlet valve is located inside the dishwasher just behind the inlet hose connection. Depending on the model of Hotpoint Ariston dishwasher, you will have to remove the side panels of the machine and the back wall.

For your information! When typing and constantly draining water, an error F5 appears on the display of Hotpoint Ariston dishwashers.

Constant water intake and drainage can also be caused by a faulty water level sensor. The pressure switch either itself fails as a result of prolonged operation, or the sensor contacts are oxidized. In case of oxidation, you can strip and update the wires with terminals. If the sensor itself breaks down, the pressure switch must be replaced. How difficult it is to do this, judge for yourself by studying the article, Replacing the water level sensor in the dishwasher.

Before deciding to replace the circulation pump and pump, you need to check them and make sure that these elements are faulty. It may turn out that one of these units is working, and we are already tuned in to expensive and dreary repairs. How to check for a malfunction of the circulation pump and the pump in the Hotpoint Ariston dishwasher?

Disconnect the dishwasher from the mains and disconnect the inlet and outlet hoses.
We put the rags somewhere in the free space in front of the dishwasher, and then slide the machine out onto the rags so that you can put it on the back wall.
Unscrew the rear bottom panel of the Hotpoint Ariston machine, and then place it on the back wall and unscrew the bottom.

Attention! When removing the bottom of the dishwasher, be careful with the anti-leakage sensor, do not pull off its wire.

Now we have access to the required units. We take an ohmmeter, set the minimum value, and then put the probes on the contacts of the pump, and then the circulation pump.
If the value on the ohmmeter display is about 1500, you can leave neither the pump nor the pump, most likely, the problem is not with them, but if the value is much lower, you may have to think about replacing these elements on the Hotpoint Ariston dishwasher.

We made sure that the pump does not work, we will change it. First you need to disconnect all wires and connectors from the pump and unscrew the drain hose. We unscrew one screw that holds the pump to the pallet. We take a new similar drain pump, install a new rubber O-ring and put a new pump in place of the old one. We fasten the drain hose, install the connectors and wires.

If there is a need to change the circulation pump, refer to the detailed instructions set out in the article How to replace a pump in a dishwasher?

Summing up, we note that it is quite possible to fix the Ariston dishwasher with your own hands, especially in cases when you have to deal with typical malfunctions that were discussed in this article. Happy renovation!

Self-repair of Ariston dishwashers will allow you to save a lot of money on the services of a specialist - judge for yourself, for one call you will have to spend from 500 to 1500 rubles. Meanwhile, the dishwasher is designed quite simply, so nothing prevents you from repairing it yourself, mobilizing your skills and choosing the right tools. We will help you diagnose the equipment and identify malfunctions.

For the repair of Miele dishwashers, see another overview on our website.

If the Ariston dishwasher stops showing signs of life, that's not a reason to panic. Perhaps your socket is broken - such cases are not uncommon.The repair consists in checking the operability of the outlet by connecting some electrical appliance, for example, a known working lamp. If it does not work, we can safely change the outlet to a new one. You should also make sure that the wiring is in good condition.

The next culprit in need of repair could be the onboard switch of the Ariston dishwasher. The button installed here is not a switch with its powerful contacts, but a miniature switch with a simple contact group. To check the switch, it is necessary to measure the presence of voltage at its output... And by poking the multimeter probes at the input contacts, we can diagnose the integrity of the supply cable.

If the diagnostics of the switch showed its serviceability, go ahead - next in line we have fuses, which are checked visually or using an ohmmeter. We change the blown fuses, just in case we check all the wiring on board the Ariston dishwasher - who knows why they burned out. After replacing, we try to turn on the dishwasher again, analyzing its performance.

Suppose you have loaded dishes into your dishwasher and pressed the start button. In theory, the device should fill up with water and start the cycle. If the Ariston dishwasher refuses to start the program, you should start diagnosing it. But first of all, you need to reopen and close the door - it is quite possible that the problem lies precisely here.

Next, you should look at the indicators - if the device has not started the cycle, it will show an error code. Find a table with Ariston dishwasher error codes and identify the faulty unit based on the readings in the table. Any sensors, circulation pump and other components may require repair.

There may be several reasons for this:

You managed to pinch the inlet hose - a fairly common reasonrequiring inspection of all communications;
For some reason, the ball valve turned out to be closed - perhaps you closed it yourself or the children "tried" here;
There is no water supply from the water supply system - probably, some work is being done on the line or in the house, therefore there is no water. Just try opening the tap above the sink and make sure there is a water supply;
Filters are clogged - one of them is located in the inlet or directly in the inlet hose (it needs to be blown out or rinsed thoroughly). If you put an additional filter on the input, check it;
The solenoid valve has broken - diagnostics consists in checking the supply voltage required to open the valve. Repair technology - complete valve replacement.

When diagnosing and repairing an Ariston dishwasher, you may encounter a lack of valve power. In this case, you should check the integrity of the wiring and the operability of the control board (usually, its failure is indicated by the integrity of all other nodes).

Lack of draining is not the biggest problem with Ariston dishwashers. But if the drain pump fails, you will have to spend money on repairs, since the cost of some pump models is quite high. But first of all, you need to check the patency of the drain hose - it may be pinched, as a result of which the pump cannot push the water into the sewer.

Also the built-in filter needs to be checked, which filters coarse dirt... If it gets too clogged, all dirt and water will remain in the cooking compartment. In addition, if the pump does not start, check the connecting wires using a multimeter. If the wires are intact, the control module in your Ariston dishwasher is out of order - it will need repair.

Dishwashers from the manufacturer Ariston have corrosion-resistant working chambers - they use strong and durable steel. However, leaks are possible. Repair technology upon detection of corrosion of the working chamber - soldering or sealing with special sealants... Also, the cause of the leak can be the loss of the properties of the seal on the loading door - we diagnose it by restarting and inspection.

Another reason for a leak is a violation of the integrity of the drain hose. Repair is useless here, it is easier to change it. We inspect the inlet hose in the same way. Also, leaks can form inside the Ariston dishwasher - in this case, it must be disassembled and carefully inspected, checking the clamps and other joints of individual units.

Do-it-yourself repair of the Ariston Hotpoint dishwasher often comes down to finding the source of the noise. Some dishwashers make noise even when in good working order, but if the noise is clearly unnecessary, you should take care of a thorough inspection. Often the engine (circulation pump) starts to thunder here, water gets into the bearings... Repair consists in replacing oil seals, and in the most difficult cases, the entire engine.

If the noises appear during the cycle, but subside when the engine is turned off, the rocker arms should be inspected - they may be clinging to something or just rattling. Often, noises arise from the dishes themselves, on which jets of water beat. Last but not least, you can suspect a drain pump, which is nearing the end of its service life.

When accepting applications for the repair of Ariston dishwashers, service centers often face complaints about the lack of normal heating. Quite it is logical to suspect a malfunction of the heating element... It must be removed and tested with a multimeter - a working heating element has a resistance of several tens of ohms. If the resistance is too high, the heating element should be changed - it cannot be repaired.

In addition to the heating element, the connecting wires should be tested - their damage leads to a lack of power supply to the heating element and a corresponding lack of heating. The thermostat may also be faulty, you need to find its characteristics and check their compliance when the temperature regime changes. If everything is working properly, then the problem may lie in the control board.

If the Ariston dishwasher does not dry the dishes, you should decide on the type of drying. Condensing drying dries kitchen utensils naturally by drying them naturally - the last rinse is carried out in hot water, plates, cups and forks are heated up and then dry quickly. Rinses help this process. If your dishwasher does not dry well enough, check the presence of rinse aid and make sure that the selected program includes drying.

Ariston dishwashers with a turbo dryer have something to repair - a fan, heating element or a control board may require repairs here. The latter is guilty of not supplying voltage to start the drying. Repair of heating elements and fans most often comes down to replacing them.

Some users have complained that the Ariston dishwasher has started to shock. This happens when any current-carrying elements come into contact with the body of the device. Diagnostics and repairs include work on a thorough examination of the insides and control of the integrity of the connecting wires - faulty wiring requires replacement.

Also you should test the heating element - it is he who most often gives a breakdown... For testing, a multimeter is used in ohmmeter mode. We remove the heating element, check the resistance between its body and contacts. If it is hundreds of megohms, the problem lies elsewhere. If the resistance is too low, then the cause has been found. Repair technology - complete replacement of heating elements.

Hello all.
I decided to share with all the home (masters) handcrafts how not to go broke in our difficult time of crisis.

First, a few letters. Those who are lazy do not need to read.

Once again I came across that manufacturers of household appliances specifically do so that after the end of the warranty period, you bring their brainchild to a service center or, even better, buy a new one.
I will write in detail, because a similar post a month ago would have helped me a lot.
So. We have a Hotpoint-Ariston LSF7237 dishwasher.

The story began about six months ago, Sometimes the dishwasher refused to wash the dishes: i.e. I collected water, warmed it up and that's it…. You switch modes several times and by persuasion and tapping on the door (this is how they tap on the wheels when the car does not start), she still agreed to fulfill her mission.
One "fine" day she again refused and the above actions had no effect on her. Moreover, it does not show any errors, although it should for various breakdowns.

Having smoked the Internet, I came to the conclusion that the problem is either in the drain system or in the circulation pump. I must also say that I wash the filters every time before the next wash. But I checked it again and washed everything. I even took off the drain hose and watched as the water flowed out - all the GUD!

Remaining - a circulation pump!
I started smoking YouTube to find how to get to it. I smoked in a hurry - I didn't find it. I decided it myself! Fool.
He pushed the dishwasher out from under the countertop, unscrewed all the screws that he found from the side of the wall, then the screws under the front cover and…. all. The idea was simple - to remove the side walls and get into the intestines. But the side walls refused to be removed.
I thought for a long time. I pulled for a long time.
I went back to the Internet and found that it was NOT necessary to remove the walls. You turn the machine over and open the hatch from below (there is a place for screws, but apparently I didn't have them from the factory anymore). Just a flap with latches!

Now about the insides.
A leakage sensor is attached to the bottom of the lid - this is the lowest point in the rmm and when water gets on it - the rmm turns off (by the way, it is also one of the reasons for not starting)

The largest snail, the drain pump, is looking directly at you. A drain hose comes out of it to the left.

Below is a black flask sandwiched between gray flanges - our patient His Majesty the Circulation pump. He later introduced himself as the Askoll M233. it is installed on many Ariston models, so it is often found.

I'll make a reservation right away that I looked on the Internet for the cost of a new pump - about 5,000 rubles, which, in my budget, is very significant.

The pump is not difficult to remove:
1. remove the clamp from the drain pump;
2.Unscrew 4 screws from the drain pipe from the washing area (see in the back)
3. remove 3 cones - 2 on top, one on the bottom. Carefully!

We read from the Internet that the reason for not starting (breaking) the circulation pump is, first of all, the dirt accumulated inside.

No sooner said than done. We disassemble it by unscrewing the upper black part counterclockwise relative to the body by about 90 degrees. So far, everything is not difficult.
By the way, in this photo you can see the place where 4 screws were unscrewed.

Next, we take out the rotor from the body. Still not difficult.

It is under this cover that grease and dirt accumulate.
By the way, there was not a lot of dirt and grease, but there was! By the way, the dishwasher is 4-5 years old.

Once again, I remind you that I wash my filter every time (well, or almost every), which I advise you. The more often you wash the filter, the less dirt there will be and the less likely breakages, at least in this unit.

BUT. After washing the filter, I happily put everything back together. It turned out to be a little more difficult to assemble than to disassemble ... well, this is natural. The dishwasher was silent like a partisan and did not start the wash cycle in any mode. Tried it 10 times for sure.
At this stage, I heard from my wife that she was again a "dishwasher" and not a woman. Honestly, I got upset with her.

The second reason for the breakdown of the circulation pump is the backlash of the bushings (sleeve bearings) of the rotor.

One bushing is installed in the pump casing. It is pulled out with a wire or a thin screwdriver. It is still not difficult.

But the second one is in the rotor housing under the impeller. Now, how difficult it is!

At first, second and third glance, the case is non-separable.

But thanks to YouTube users - nowhere without them.
We cut out the hole in the impeller opposite the shaft

Yes, you can drill. I wanted to do it myself, just mark the center with a knife. But either the knife was sharp, or the plastic is soft, the drill did not have to be uncovered.

Next, we take 2 bars (some took a jar from baby food), we take a nail (a little blunt with a file) and a hammer. Connecting data ...

This is how the second sleeve ended up in my hands.

There are also rubber rings - you don't need to lose them.

Inside the impeller, as they say, there is a lock washer, which does not allow the whole thing to be easily disassembled. The shaft is slightly tapered

Next, we are looking for acquaintances with a lathe (well, or whatever they are called there) machine and the presence of caprolon / vtoroplast. We sharpen new exactly the same bushings.
Dimensions:

Stepped bushing 10 mm long.
Larger outer diameter - 14 mm
Smaller outer - 10 mm
Inner diameter - 5 mm

The outer diameters are 5 mm long.

Next, put on the rubber bands (if they fell out of the case) and collect everything as it was

To put the impeller back together, turn it over and press it down with your hand. No need to knock

The only thing I wanted was to replace the clamp with an ordinary worm gear, but while I was dismantling and assembling it, I was trying to figure out how to disconnect / connect it. Connected like this

With a thin screwdriver through the far "eyelet" you hook the counterpart and pull on the second "eyelet". It can be seen badly, but the meaning is something like this.

In short, buy a 45 mm clamp, those who do not want to bother.

So everything was assembled. And a festive launch!

The wife is happy, you are proud, you are getting ready to celebrate, but NO!

I will not bother rewriting6
how I assembled and disassembled again 5 times,
how in the end he pulled the pump onto the table and connected it to 220 volts with a stub of wire and he did not twist it,
how upset I was once again
how I turned the rotor with my fingers and it turned (and so on several times),
as I understand where the jamb is.

The shorter inner bore of the bushings should be 5.1 ... 5.2. I definitely didn’t measure. I just took it all back to the damn grandma. By the way, remember that I did not put everything on the sealant and did not close the hole in the impeller. I inserted the natfil into the hole in the sleeve and rolled the "wheel" like a child. After this procedure, the rotor started up several times by itself and then I realized that now it’s just time to put everything back and put the beer in the refrigerator ...

Outcome:
1.Gained invaluable experience
2. another recognition of the main handshake in the family.
3. the wife is a woman again, not a dishwasher.
4. Assembly and disassembly of the dishwasher takes 10 minutes.
5.There are also a couple of spare bushing kits available.

I hope, of course, that very few people will be useful for their intended purpose, but only in terms of general development.

That's all.
Thank you all for your attention.

TS, you, hike, are the main hands and in my family too 🙂
turned green.

ZY: immediately a question, but if you pick up the left circulation at all, will it work? PMM monitors the filling of the chamber according to the pump operation time or are there level sensors?

And what can be especially broken here?

It just so happened that there is no fluoroplastic, but it happened to be with relatives. when he asked “for a fool” he was ofigel that there is.

if there was material, then the files and the drill came in handy

I have an indesit with exactly the same pump. once every six months, it is stable that the boiler is scrapped (burned out tries), then the pump itself (then the winding melted, then the rotor collapsed).
Purely by chance, Avito stumbled upon the same zero machine, which broke down after 1 start, took it for 2 rubles, it turned out that the owner of some kind of washing powder pizdanul directly on the dishes and started it.
I replaced the boiler at home and cleaned some petrified crap from the pump.
Since then, I have been pouring the powder in half with citric acid, the plaque from the dishes has disappeared, there is not a hint of lime deposits in the boiler, it has been working without interruptions for almost 2 years. Pah-pah.
dfp 2727

And I have a problem with PMM Bosch:
The car is 2 years old, washes well, BUT
about six months ago, 40 minutes before the end of the washing cycle, a strange hum appears for 10 minutes, then it passes,

The second BUT stopped turning off about a month ago, at any washing cycle it drains the water at 0:01, and the display shows 0:00 until you turn it off with the button. The filters are clean, there is no water in the machine.

Well done TS, turned green.
Last year I carried out the same repairs with my PMM.

I want to point out another point.
Yes, now there are a lot of stupid articles on repairing anything.
But there are forums for home appliances repair specialists. Naively counting on help in identifying a breakdown. More precisely, "advise in which direction to dig"
Faced with a really boorish attitude. I was just seething when I read something like this to my beloved:
"Morons got in again";
“With crooked hands”.
The funny thing is that such a negative, I must say more than one case and not even on one forum. It comes not from some newcomers, but from the regulars, with thousands of posts, clear authorities.
Those who are so fucking come across that literally immediately with the first post they turn to insults. And now a few hangers-on with a lesser reputation begin to assent in the manner of Tabaka.
Just tin. I was shocked. And this topic is precisely on the forums for the repair of household appliances. I have never seen this anywhere else. One even had to explain that it is necessary to talk more carefully with strangers. So I was also banned for offtopic. The truth is then returned, having figured out who is Hamlo, but not the point.
Apparently, household appliances repairers began to live very badly. Since the people do not want to pay them according to their tariffs, they get nervous.

In the end, I repaired my PMM, having dealt with the circulation pump like that of the vehicle, but the truth is, because of it, the relay in the control unit still burned out. Repair price 150 rubles.
The services referred to by the regulars of the special. forums I was immediately told that the repair only by replacing the entire blocks and wait from a month. Bring, leave. Nakuya me such "specialists"? I used to repair a washing machine and a refrigerator before - now I prefer to fix it myself, because a divorce for grandmothers starts with leaving the price of 500 rubles, and he “did not take the necessary tool with him,” bring it yourself to the address.

Video (click to play).

TS - well done that he coped. I would have bought the same new one right away. But prices for household appliances rose more than the dollar rose.

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