Hp laserjet p1005 DIY repair

In detail: hp laserjet p1005 do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Regardless of the brand, repairs always begin with preliminary diagnostics of the printer, which is performed by an experienced technician. If necessary, the mechanical assemblies and parts of the device are cleaned and lubricated. After diagnostics, the cause of the breakdown is determined and an estimate is drawn up, according to which the subsequent repair of laser printers will be carried out. Our experts will also help you set up and adjust the operation of system nodes, fill the printer with consumables, and also conduct preliminary testing before giving you the finished printer.

Our company not only refills the HP CB435A cartridge, but also repairs the HP LaserJet P1005 / HP LaserJet P1006 printers. The HP LaserJet P1005 printer is a fairly old model, but it has not lost its popularity to this day, due to its simplicity and ease of use. This small and compact printer is rarely repaired. the parts in it are durable. Paper pick rollers, thermal film, a brake pad, various sensors, gears, a stove, a rubber shaft, a motor, a gearbox, a laser unit - do not fail so often as in other printer models, which attracts a large audience of users. The HP LaserJet P1005 printer is very cheap and economical to maintain. The HP 35A cartridge refills without problems. We provide a guarantee for all types of repairs, as well as refilling the CB435A cartridge until the toner runs out. We warn about the imminent failure of some parts of the cartridge and printer, in order to avoid deterioration in print quality. When asking a question - how to refill a CB435A cartridge or where to repair an HP LaserJet P1005 printer, contact our company.

Laser unit defective or dirty.
The drum unit has reached the end of its life.
Cartridge refill required. Dirty line along the sheet, tearing of the thermal film of the HP LaserJet P1005 printer.

If various small objects (paper clips, staples, etc.) fall into the HP LaserJet P1005 printer, the internal parts of the HP LaserJet P1005 printer may be damaged, and accordingly, they may be damaged. The most common type of damage is thermal film rupture. It is a dark gray or black film roller. Thermal film tearing naturally affects the print quality. A dirty strip appears along the sheet, the toner is not baked (accordingly, it is erased), the image doubles, the sheets wrinkle like an accordion, etc. These are all signs that the thermal film in the printer is torn and needs to be replaced. In this case, it is not advisable to continue working on the printer, because other parts of the HP LaserJet P1005 printer break down along the chain, and their repair also costs money. Repairs are made on the same day as parts are available.

Video (click to play).

The HP LaserJet P1005 printer does not “see” the cartridge or paper, shows a paper jam. This usually happens when the sensors fail due to improper operation of the HP LaserJet P1005 printer, or a paper jam occurs and the printer falls into an error. If the error persists after off. and incl. HP LaserJet P1005 printer, then certain sensors are damaged.

The HP LaserJet P1005 Printer emits a strong crackle or hum. Most often this happens after hitting some objects or the resource of any parts has been exhausted. In such cases, replacement of worn-out parts or removal of a foreign object is required. This usually happens in the gearbox itself.

The HP LaserJet P1005 printer prints with dark or light streaks. Maintenance, repair of the cartridge or fusing unit is required. This is usually most often due to the cartridge.

The HP LaserJet P1005 Printer emits a loud “squeal”.The HP LaserJet P1005 laser unit assembly needs repair or replacement.

The HP LaserJet P1005 printer after turning on prints letters, numbers, "nonsense"
- Turn off the HP LaserJet P1005 printer, clear the print queue, turn on the printer. Restart the computer connected to the HP LaserJet P1005 printer.

The HP LaserJet P1005 printer works, but the image has dark, intermittent streaks along the edges.
- Try replacing the HP CB435A cartridge.

The HP LaserJet P1005 printer works but the image has light or dark horizontal stripes.
- Try replacing the HP CB435A cartridge. Check the thermal film in the fuser of the HP LaserJet P1005 printer.

Printer works HP LaserJet P1005, but image has light vertical stripes.
- Try replacing the HP CB435A cartridge or cleaning the optics of the HP LaserJet P1005 printer in the imaging path.

The printer is running HP LaserJet P1005, but the image is tilted relative to the paper.
- Slide the paper tray guides to fit the sheet.

The HP LaserJet P1005 printer shows a paper jam, does not beep after turning on.
- Open the front cover and check if there is any jammed paper in the HP LaserJet P1005 printer. Delete it. Check paper path sensors.

The HP LaserJet P1005 printer prints one sheet normally and the other stops in the printer.
- Check the paper exit sensor (plastic flag, spring, optocoupler).

The HP LaserJet P1005 printer works, but the image is erased from the sheet with your finger.
- Check if the paper is too thick. Check the fuser of the HP LaserJet P1005 printer.

The HP LaserJet P1005 printer works, but the image is slightly smeared downward.
- Check the lubricant and thermal film in the fuser of the HP LaserJet P1005 printer.

The HP LaserJet P1005 printer works, but picks up multiple sheets (there are blank sheets in the printed sheets).
- Replace or turn the paper over with the far side facing you. Replace the paper path brake pad.

The HP LaserJet P1005 printer works but makes a rustling sound. The HP LaserJet P1005 printer wrinkles the corners of the sheets.
- Check the fuser and thermal film of the HP LaserJet P1005 printer.

Read also: DIY power steering repair

100 rubles), plus the tricks of sellers in the absence of thermal grease in the repair kit and the sale of this component for repair, also at an order of magnitude overpriced.

The thermal film was searched for within a month and was purchased for 300 rubles (2013) complete with thermal grease. Repair requires a simple tool:

The repair scheme is carried out step by step in the following order.

Step: 1 Check the integrity of the film and the presence of thermal grease. Pull the cartridge out of the printer. Unplug the power cord.

Step 1. Disconnect the power cord

Step 1. Remove the cartridge from the printer

Step: 2 The cartridge access cover is held in place by a rod. The stem must be separated from the cover by pressing on the inner edge of the plastic rivet. Hold the rivet while detaching.

Step: 3 Turn the printer towards you with the back cover and using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the three screws from the metal cover, two screws on the left and one screw on the right. See photo.

Step 3.Unscrew the screw on the left

Step 3. Unscrew the screws on the right

Step: 4 Remove the sides of the printer. The stacks are held in place by plastic clips that are located at the top, bottom, and back. The lid without buttons holds the strongest. Secret latches are shown in the photo.

Step 4. Wall latches with buttons

Step 4. Wall latches without buttons

Step: 5 Lift the cartridge access door and remove the two machine screws. Remove the cover.

Step: 6 Use a flat screwdriver to pry up the lower right edge of the metal back cover and remove it.

Step 6. Pry off the cover with a screwdriver

Step: 7 On the side of the power connector is the power board. There are four different connectors on the top of the board, unplug them. The connector with white thick wires will be disconnected only after pressing the latch, see the photo. It is also necessary to disconnect the red wire on the back panel. Just pull it up. Remember how it is fastened compressed by a spring. Remove the wires from the organizer clips.

Step 7: power board connectors

Step 7. Latch for the fourth connector

Step 7. Fastening the red wire

Step 7. Red wire connector

Step 7. The wires are free

Step: 8 So we got to the stove. The stove is secured with three screws. See photo. We unscrew the screws. Hold the screws while loosening.

Step 8. The first screw that secures the stove

Step 8. The second screw securing the stove

Step 8. The third screw for fixing the stove

Step: 9 Take the right edge of the stove and pull it out.

Step: 10 Unscrew the two screws securing the stove top cover. Remove the cover by pulling it to the side.

Step 10. First cover screw

Step 10. Second cover screw

Step 10. The fuser cover is removed

Step: 11 Now we see the destruction of the thermal film. Remember the position of the planks with pins and levers! There are springs on the sides of the stove, we unhook the springs from below with long-nose pliers. We remove metal strips and plastic pressure levers on each side. Do not mix them up when assembling!

Step 11. Spring securing the lever

Step 11. Remove each spring

Step: 12 We release the white wires from the clips and remove the drum with thermal film. It just goes up.

Step 12. Remove the thermal drum

Step 12. The thermal drum is removed

Step: 13 We remove with our own hands the plastic tip from the side where thin wires come out of the drum. The cap is held on by the latches.

Step: 14 Remove the damaged thermal film and wipe the metal surface and the thermocouple with a damp cloth from old grease and dirt.

Step 14. Remove the thermal film

Step: 15 Apply a new thermal grease on the surface of the stove. Install the thermal film carefully. The end of the cylinder should be fixed to the opposite plastic tip. also carefully install the right tip. It is useful to remove leaked thermal grease.

Step 15. Apply thermal grease

Step 15. Putting on the thermal film

Step 15. Remove excess thermal grease

Step: 16 Assembling the stove in the reverse order. The correct position of the planks in the photo.

Step 16. The cover is installed

Step: 17 We put the stove in place and fasten it with three screws. We fill and connect all the wires to the connectors. Install the red wire correctly.

Step: 18 Install the back and top covers. We lift the plastic flags of the stove up during installation. so that they fit into the corresponding grooves in the cover.

Step 19. Print a test page

Step: 19 After assembling the printer, we check the absence of unnecessary parts. We connect the power cord. We turn on the printer. First, we give the command to feed without paper, and then we print a test page, holding the green button a little longer. On the first few pages, grease marks may appear around the edges. The work was done unhurriedly for an hour. The money saved in such work will correspond to a salary of more than 100,000 rubles a month.

Repair such breakdowns yourself!

I myself changed dozens of thermal films for hp-I testify-it is written correctly.

And how to cheat a laser printer xerox 3140 I have a problem I bought a cartridge for it, I ran out of ink and started pouring new powder and then writes that there is supposedly no cartridge and the red diode has stopped printing and that's it / How can you not tell him to cheat?

Faced the following problem:

The HP LaserJet p1005 printer, when the paper runs out in the tray, stops printing even crying. Even slip in a new pack - it is zero emotion. The most interesting thing further - well, I think you need to find the coveted button which you press and the printing will continue. Fig, there is no such button! There is generally one button on it - called POWER. Go ahead - there is no sensor, which is responsible for the fact that the paper has run out! This is a joke - the HP LaserJet printer realizes that it is out of paper after it knocks its empty tray on the table three times. We know very well what to do in this case: we go to the offsite and download the latest drivers for our printer. Fuh downloaded, the beginning of the window to pop up on which there is a "continue" button. After some attempts to make him print, when the paper runs out, the printer again went into thought for what purpose it was made. I started looking at the ports in the printer properties, and there the old printer driver hangs on USB001. We demolish everything we can, reinstall the printer and lo and behold! Everything is working!

Just in case, the tseemdeshnik sbatsat, who can come in handy.

Its essence is that it stops the print spooler and deletes files that have hung during printing in the absence of paper. Then it starts the print spooler again and you can print.

@echo off
net stop spooler
ping localhost> nul
del / Q “C: WindowsSystem32SpoolPRINTER *. *”
net start spooler

Copy and paste this code, for example, into notepad and save the file with the .cmd extension (spooler.cmd).

If you are too lazy to create a file, you can download it from the deposit

a really rare glitch, after I stuck it in HELL I swore, tk. I put it in the pool ... I think the poor accountants have not heard such mats for a long time, and after the other printers stopped rolling out reports from 1C, they got additional words, because I accidentally brought out the rest of the printers with the printer ... did not deal with it, said: in short, the printer is buggy, if you print then there must be paper, but in general why print without paper? -))

In short: the printer is a rare shit, because the volume of the cartridge is small, just like that of an inkjet, a crappy cloud of glitches with processing documents that are sent to bake, makes me go crazy because of my fucking.

As always, I was saved by the discontinued printer HP 1320, on cartridges 49A - a fabulous printer ... why did they take it off? There are no problems, as they say, put everyone in the pool ...

Also not complaining about HP 2015 - out of production. It costs about twenty pieces, although at one time the formatting boards flew out, but after replacing them there are no problems. It looks like there was a lot with bad boards. 53A cartridges are refueled 2-3 times without problems, and in 53X you have to immediately change the drum + knife.

Good day, dear friends! For a week and a half I have not written anything new, a lot of basic work. That turned out to be a free evening. Today I will describe the process of disassembling and cleaning the HP P1505n printer. They brought me this wonderful device with a diagnosis of wear and tear of the thermal film in the fusing unit. Such printers are no longer produced, but they will be used for more than one year, since, in my opinion, this high-quality, high-speed, networked device can still compete with newer models.

Immediately I apologize for some slightly blurry photos. There are not many of them here, I just won't be able to re-photograph. Let's get started.

First of all, as is done in almost all printers, we will begin to disassemble the case, namely, we will start with the side covers, which are held on by latches and are reinforced with two bolts on the back side. We unscrew the bolts, then snap off the sidewalls from the latches (the places are shown in the photo).

During this process, you will need to unscrew one screw from the control panel and remove it.

Next, remove the cartridge from the printer, at the moment it has nothing to do there.Some actions can be done in different sequences, the fact is that the cartridge could be removed from the very beginning, but I repair the printer without looking at the instructions, so I can get worn out, and 100% step-by-step instructions will not work, but I will try to describe all the steps. even those in which I was worn out.

Now let's remove the top, but first we need to detach the tab that connects the gear to the photo roll.

Next, we remove two more oven legs from the grooves, which weaken the pressure of the thermal film to the lower shaft while lifting the lid. This is necessary so that in the event of a paper jam in the fusing unit, you can pull the paper out without tearing it.

So, we move the cover to a vertical position and sink the legs from the grooves.

It remains for us to unscrew one bolt from the back side, and press a little from below on the metal back wall.

Before removing the front, for convenience, I will remove the tab that holds the printed sheets while the printer is running. It rests on two pins, lift the tongue and gently snap it off.

Next, we remove the front part by snapping it off on the sides from the bottom and from the top.

In the next photo, you see two pieces torn off from the lower (pressure) shaft. From here we understand that we will not be limited to replacing the thermal film here, the lower roller also needs to be changed.

To remove the fusing unit (oven) for us, we need to disconnect the wires from the board. In this case, for convenience, I will remove the formatter board, which is held in place by four screws. Do not forget to disconnect the cable from it.

When the board was removed, we also unscrew the plate on which this board was actually held.

Now we can safely disconnect three sensor contacts and one of the largest, the thermocouple contact.

We look at the back of the printer and see another red wire, which supplies a charge to the corotron, we also disconnect it, respectively.

Next, we need to pull out all the wires from the grooves to free the oven, and remove the plastic fuse for the thermoelement contacts.

So we saw three bolts that hold the stove.

I'll leave the printer aside for now and fix the fusing unit.

The first thing I do is disconnect the temperature sensor contact.

We unscrew the two bolts and remove the top cover of the oven.

Removing the cover, we see the thermal film. If you look inattentively, it may seem that the thermal film is intact, but looking closely, we see that on the right side it does not lie completely. It just broke exactly in a circle. There is a metallized thermal film here, if there was a simple cheap one, it would have burst much more. By the way, due to the fact that the thermal film is metallized, the client was printing on a faulty printer for another month, and what was my surprise, the printer was printing well. The crackling and rustling became the reason for his hospitalization.

We continue to disassemble the stove and remove the metal clamps with plastic paws (we snapped these paws off the top cover of the case), unhooking the springs on both sides.

Now we can lift the fuser block and see the damaged lower shaft.

If the customer immediately noticed the rustling inside the printer, the lower shaft would most likely be intact.

The next photo shows the place of damage to the thermal film.

Immediately, I visually inspect the lower shaft bushings. When they are erased, then by looking closely you can see irregularities, which means that it is also desirable to change them. In my case, the bushings are still in good condition.

Before throwing out the lower shaft, remove the gear, just gently squeeze out the small tab and slide the gear off the axle.

In the next picture, I have laid out old and new replacement parts. I will use the same high-quality thermal film (metallized). The lower shaft I have only Chinese (but still high quality), not new, but in excellent condition. The rubber on a good bottom shaft should be soft to the touch, not oak like on cheap shafts.

We disassemble the thermoelement block, remove the plastic holder from the side of the wires to the thermal sensor, it is from this side that we can pull out the old thermal film and tighten the new one.

Further, to release the thermocouple, remove its contact plug.

Then I will remove the fuser by prying it off with a plastic card. At this point, be extremely careful, as even small efforts can break the thermocouple. If it sticks, try to lift it from different sides, remove the metal holder on the left.

Now you need to carefully clean everything, and insert the thermoelement into place.

To prevent the thermal film from sticking to the thermoelement, a special thermal paste is necessarily applied to the latter. It should be a little, but not a little, about as in my photo (I even smeared it a bit, did not stint).

When I opened the tube with a new part, I saw there the thermal paste included (I will postpone it for the future). Today there is a good paste called malikote, which I always use.

Looking at the new thermal film, we can see the metal edges around the edges. We need to position it so that the wide edge matches the black conductive ring on the lower shaft. This is to relieve static electricity.

In my case, the wide edge should be on the side of the thermoelement contact. We push in the thermal film and put the plastic holder in place.

Before installing new parts, clean the case, pay special attention to the plastic guide, on which toner is collected and coked together with paper dust.

The coked toner can be removed with a sandpaper, or carefully trimmed with a knife.

Replace the guide and apply grease to the bushings.

Now you can put the lower shaft (in the photo you can see that I forgot to put the guide - the head is full of holes, but I quickly fixed it).

Next, I replaced the fuser block and made sure that the wide edge on the thermal film was aligned with the black ring on the lower shaft.

Now we insert the legs and pressure plates, pull the springs into place.

We put in place the top cover and fix it with two bolts.

Insert the plug of the contact of the temperature sensor into place, and put the gear wheel on the rubber shaft, apply conductive grease on its axis.

We leave the finished oven and return to the printer.

To get a good cleaning of the printer, I will continue to disassemble it and start with the paper feed and feed unit.

To remove it, first you need to unscrew 6 bolts, three on the left and three on the right.

The brake pad must also be removed by removing the two bolts from the bottom of the printer.

Next, remove the fastening of the “kebab” paper feed shaft, simply turn it counterclockwise and pull it out. The paper feed and paper feed unit will easily separate from the printer.

Next, I will unscrew the metal plate with all the gears to check for integrity and lubrication. We unscrew the 4 bolts and carefully remove so that the gears do not fall in different directions.

A gear wheel with a rubber belt from the main motor remains on the wall of the printer. To remove it, unscrew one bolt from the belt tensioner. It is not necessary to do this, I only remove the gear with the belt if the printer is very dirty and I need to disassemble the plate on which the laser unit and the main motor are located.

By the way, if you decide to remove this plate, then unscrew the two screws, thereby freeing the engine and the white bolt from below that holds the plate, and on the other side of the printer, completely remove the board, under it you will find another bolt.

Next, we turn the printer towards us in front and unscrew the four bolts. Lift the front metal case up.

The last thing I will disassemble is the paper trays, because it is not possible to clean them normally without disassembling them. To remove the paper tray, look at the bottom of the printer, there you will see six screws that hold it in place.

Next, cleaning of all disassembled parts begins and the gradual assembly of the printer. First, I cleaned out the remaining unassembled part of the printer, and proceeded to disassemble and clean the paper tray assembly.

Remove the springs immediately so that they don't fly off later.

Now remove two bolts on each side and remove the tray from two slots, one on each side.

Thus, we have separated both trays.

We clean the first tray by removing it from the metal bottom by bending two latches.

At the second tray, remove the paper lifter and also clean all parts.We assemble the trays in the reverse order.

Now we screw the trays back on from the bottom of the printer.

Next, we put on the metal front case.

Do not forget to replace the laser shutter opening tab here. If you forget to do this, a blank white sheet will come out when printing.

We put in place the plate covering the main engine and tighten the whole thing by 4 bolts in the corners.

We assemble the block with gears, first put the gear with a rubber belt and screw on the belt tensioner (in case you removed them), and then put all the gears in place and screw the cover. To avoid confusion, I marked with different colors where to put each of the gears ...

Next we will have a paper pick-up and feed unit. Here I will remove the corotron, and the pickup roller.

As you can see in the photo, in order to remove the pickup roller, you need to scroll it, for this, press the solenoid from the side and scroll the gear.

It is easy to remove the roller, you just need to move the two legs in different directions, and it will bounce off the seat itself.

I clean the roller with a special liquid for cleaning rubber surfaces in office equipment, but when it is not at hand, I simply clean it from dirt with isopropyl alcohol. Insert the roller, leading the bottom first, and then snapping the top. The corotron, if not very dirty, can simply be vacuumed, in some cases it can be washed in cold water with dishwashing liquid, and then dried thoroughly. I do not always remove the rest of the parts in the paper pick-up and feed unit, only in those cases when the printer is very dirty.

I’ll step aside for a second from the topic and write about dirty printers. In most cases, the inside of the printer is very dirty due to the fact that the client at the end of the cartridge's life begins to shake it (in order to suck the last juices from it). During the shaking, the toner accumulated in the waste hopper flies out, and gradually fills up the internal parts of the cartridge, and at the same time the printer. This dirt immediately begins to spoil the parts of the cartridge in an accelerated mode during their movement, and gradually accumulating in the printer, it also sinks into the parts of the printer. I constantly explain to the client that they do not save on shaking out the last leftover toner, but, on the contrary, will subsequently pay more, but not all shaking lovers listen.

We continue to assemble the printer. While you will push the paper pick-up and feed unit into place, you need to put your hand through the trays and lower the paper lifter, otherwise the first will rest against the latter.

We tighten the six bolts, insert the plastic holder into place, and fasten the brake pad from below.

Now we install the previously repaired oven in place, and tighten it by 3 bolts.

Do not forget to insert the plastic fuse for the fuser contacts.

We put all the wires in place and stick the contacts into the sockets. Each contact will only fit into its own socket, so it is impossible to confuse.

Next, screw in the plate - the formatter board holder and the board itself. Remember to connect all cables and cables.

It remains to assemble the outer case. First, snap the front case, and then insert the top with the cover into the grooves and snap the tab of the gear turning the photo roll.

Insert two more feet of the fusing unit into the slots.

Next, slide the metal back cover into the grooves on the top, and then press it down.

The back wall should easily hold in place, if you feel that it does not press well somewhere, then the wall did not fit into place. Secure the back wall with one bolt.

Replace the control panel and tighten it.

Now insert the side covers by inserting them first from the front and snapping them into place at the back. Fasten the sidewalls with two bolts from the back.

Insert the cartridge into the printer and replace the tab for the printed paper.

Video (click to play).

For verification, I will insert a sheet of paper and print a configuration report. Everything works fine, the printer whispers, and the printed sheet is without any jambs.

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