Indesit wisl 105 DIY repair

In detail: indesit wisl 105 DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Every breakdown is accompanied by the presence of symptoms.

Some have a clear sign (visual) - mechanical, burning smell, destruction of components and devices.

And some hidden defect. These are the most insidious, since you have to check the entire chain of devices and the time is delayed. Especially with an inexperienced master.

Almost all Indesit models wisl 103, wisl 105, wisl 83, wisl 82, wisl 102 are based on the EVO II control module with a collector motor.

Therefore, their design and repair will be very similar.

Explanation of the error code by flashing indicators:

By adding the numbers corresponding to the blinking LEDs, you will receive an error code.

As an example of error F10, add the sum 8 + 2 = 10 (F10).

Malfunctions by error code:

F01 - the signal is lost between the control board and the motor.

We measure the control voltages on the motor control block with a tester:

The motor control thyristor may have become unusable. Also ring the motor terminals.

F02 - no signal from the engine tachogenerator and the electronic module.

We also check the engine block and connector.

We make sure that the tachogenerator is working properly:

The tacho sensor monitors the rotation speed of the motor rotor.

When it turns, an alternating voltage is generated at the terminals of the tachogenerator coil.

The frequency is compared by an electronic board and the rotation of the drum is monitored.
It is enough to tighten the sensor mounting screws or glue it in order to restore the correct operation of the engine.

The resistance of the contact group in a quiescent state should be about 70 ohms. Without removing the test leads from the coil lead terminals, rotate the motor shaft. Resistance, in this case, should change. If this happens, then the tachogenerator is working properly.

Video (click to play).

F03 - breakage of the temperature sensor (thermistor), breakdown of the processor on the module.

The sensor itself rarely fails. Usually there is no signal from the board (connector pins)

First, ring the temperature sensor, reflash the ROM, ring the kilo-ohm resistors. If it does not help, a replacement board.

F05 - the drain pump or pressure switch (level sensor) does not work.

By 80 percent, a blockage (filter, drain hose) or a pump is to blame.

We clean the filter by removing the front panel with a flat screwdriver and screw it around:

The pump impeller must be clean and free of debris:

We put the washing machine on its side and separate the pipe from the tank and pump:

If error F05 pops up again - the reason is in the electrics, namely why the pumping pump does not work?

We take the multimeter in our hands and, starting the drain program, measure the voltage at the pump terminals. It should be 220 volts.

His presence tells us about the replacement of the pump.

F07, F08 - the heating element is not in the water, does not work (burnt out or open).

Make sure there is water in the tank by looking into the drum. Further, after removing the back wall, check the heating element with a tester:

F04, F08 - pressure switch (water level switch).

The presence of a signal from the connector.

Check the condition of the level sensor:

- contacts-2-4 are closed - level "EMPTY TANK"
- contacts 2-3 are closed - level "FULL TANK"
- contacts 2-1 closed - “OVERFLOW” level (not less than half the glass level of the loading door.

Remove the top cover by unscrewing the two screws at the back. This sensor is on the top:

Why is it needed?

For adjusting the water level in the tank: low, medium and high. Also provided with protection against tank overflow.

How to check?
Just blow into it. You should hear clicks. There may be three. Depends on the water levels provided by the program: economical, delicate, half load.

F09 the memory card of the electronic board is faulty.

F10 - the water intake time has been exceeded.

The filler pipe from the detergent drawer to the tank may be clogged, the water inlet valve is not working properly.

Also check the level sensor (see above).

F11 there is a problem with the drain pump.

The resistance of the pump winding should be about 170 ohms - measure it with a tester.
Follow the instructions for error F05

F12 - there is no signal between the control board and the program selector.

Carry out an external examination of the board for damage to the elements.

If no burned-out nodes were detected, 1 processor diagnostics is required:

just check the reset pins (133DDB), crystal, 50Hz signal, DATA and CLK.

2. Failure of the microcontroller: Usually the reason is that due to actuators or for other reasons, the triacs for controlling the lock (Q9) and valves (Q10-Q13) explode. In this case, SMD resistors always burn out between the terminals of U6 and the control electrodes of the triac (560 Ohm), sometimes also between them and the common wire (1 kOhm).

The designations on the resistors are 561 and 102, respectively. 561 triacs must be replaced, even if it looks intact!

In these cases, the corresponding pins of the U6 microcircuit are always damaged.

It is best to remove a non-working microcircuit with a soldering station (hot air gun).

In its absence, you can use a very sharp knife and carefully cut off all the leads, being careful not to damage the printed conductors, and then simply remove their remnants from the board with a soldering iron and braid with flux. Another way: while heating the leads with a soldering iron, slip a safety razor blade under them, or, passing a loop of thin nichrome wire under them from the inside, carefully pull it out, also heating the leads in turn with a soldering iron.

After replacing U6, you can partially check the operation of the module: immediately after connecting to the network, a constant voltage of 5 volts should appear between the contacts for pins 4 and 8 of the memory chip U3, and after about 20 seconds relay K6 will click. This will happen even if no external devices are connected and there is no memory chip.

After the failure of one of the triacs, before installing the recovered board into the machine, you should check the device (lock or valve) connected to the corresponding output of the board in order to avoid repeated damage. For example, include a 75.100 W incandescent lamp in the open circuit of the triac device and install a program to start this device. Or just plug it in in series with the lamp. It should not glow brightly.

Triacs are rated for a maximum current of 0.8. 1 A, in reality, the lock thermostat and valves consume no more than 0.2 A through the triac circuit. In all cases, after repair, you should make sure that the data is safe in the U3 memory chip (24C64). If necessary, replace (reprogram) it according to the model.

F17 - hatch lock lock problem.

No power supply to the door lock - ring the contacts.

When turned on, all the lights on the panel start blinking, like a garland.

Pay attention to the power supply of the control board - these are swollen capacitors C17, C16, C20.

We select new capacitors, it is possible for 1000 uF. We take a soldering iron and change it.

A frequent defect - the machine does not work, the blocking lock works, the washing program starts and then there is silence.

Check the hatch lock, its contacts and wiring. Next, we look at the brushes of the electric motor.

If the working overhang of the coals is less than 7 mm, they must be replaced (both must be changed). To do this, disconnect the wire and pulling out the contact, remove it.

We remember in which direction the graphite contacts are ground. We clean the collector lamellas with a zero skin. Remove dust with a vacuum cleaner. Install new ones, making sure that they fit snugly to the collector.

If necessary, grind off the graphite with sandpaper. Fix the motor to the tank, connect the power wires, but do not put on the drive belt.Start spinning and rub in to reduce friction, then collect the remaining parts.

The first thought when an error code appears on the display is how much will the repair cost? In some cases, you really can't do without a wizard, but many faults are quite capable of fixing yourself. This article will talk about the Indesit washing machine - what repairs you can do yourself, and when it is better not to risk it.

Objectively, Indesit washing machines cannot be classified as very reliable equipment. Budgetary - yes, good quality - too, but not eternal. Moreover, as evidenced by the data of international service centers, this is the most breakable equipment, and is second only to the ARDO brand. Compared to Germans and Koreans, this brand is used 15 times more often - the statistics are shown in the diagram below. This is the average data for Russia and European countries as of the first half of 2017.

The question of why this is happening is best attributed to the company's engineers. But based on the same statistics, you can significantly narrow the range of searches for causes. And in the future, if the machine refuses to work, it will be possible to independently determine the cause of the malfunction and eliminate it on our own.

So what goes wrong:

Heating element is the weak point of all washing machines. But if in some it is covered with a special composition that reduces the formation of plaque, then in Indesite it is made simply of stainless steel and is not covered with anything. Lime and scale are formed already in the first 5 years, after which it has to be changed.

In second place after the heating element, but sometimes there is a factory defect. On average, the normal operation of the line filter can only be expected in the first 3 years. It changes very easily.

Anything that moves is easy to break, and bearings are no exception. Replacing them is easy, but very difficult to get to. Direct and belt drive Indesites have a glued drum. It is difficult to fix this malfunction with your own hands.

In equipment manufactured before 2012, the control unit failed in 100% of the cases. After the upgrade was carried out, the board began to burn less often, but this is still the most common failure.

Interestingly, the engine itself is very reliable; over the past 4 years, not a single official case of treatment has been recorded. But the sensor is the weak link. It will not be possible to repair it, you just have to change it.

The list does not include current problems, such as: dirty filters, clogged hoses, etc. This is found in all brands, even the Germans.

VIDEO: Error codes by combination of indicators

Before. how to start repairing a washing machine with your own hands, it is advisable to find the cause of the malfunction. Only a clear understanding of the problem and adherence to the correction algorithm guarantee a successful outcome of the operation.

Modern models have a display that shows an error code. Check the Indesit manual for a transcript of each. The new technique is equipped with a self-diagnosis function, which simplifies the search problem.

Error codes by indicators

If there is no display or no code is displayed, try to identify the source by ear or visually. Bearing breakage is accompanied by a strong roar and vibration during spinning, if intelligence fails, water does not drain / is not poured, etc.

By the indicators, you can determine what is broken

The multimeter can ring all contacts when power is not supplied.

Before disassembling the equipment, study its structure (diagram in the figure below) and photograph / film each stage. It will be easier to navigate during assembly.

Now we turn to the analysis of common breakdowns.

If a housewife uses only high-quality powder mixtures, pours them into the appropriate compartments of the cuvette and for stable operation of the pressure unit in the water supply system, most likely the cause of the breakdown is clogging of the inlet valve filter. The part is located behind the equipment closer to the top of the case.The filter is located almost on the same level with the powder cuvette and is connected to it with a filler pipe. When the filter device becomes clogged, the pressure level of the water supply to the soap compartment is reduced. As a result of this action, the department should be emptied, which actually does not happen due to clogging.

Do-it-yourself malfunction repair is carried out. It is enough to disconnect the pipe, clean it, wash the filter system and put all the components in their places.

This malfunction of the Indesit washing machine indicates an unstable operation of the inlet valve. The part is a device that looks like a crane according to its external data. The device is responsible for the automated supply of water to the drum through the sections of the cuvette with the detergent.

Washing machine inlet valve

The first step is to inspect the valve strainer. If the apartment has an old plumbing system with clear signs of rust accumulation, under such conditions the mesh filter will quickly become clogged. There is also the possibility that it will be necessary to check the function of each valve coil.

Remove the part, connect it to the water pipe as tightly as possible so that no liquid seeps through the seam. Then, in sequential order, apply a voltage of 220V to each coil. If the device is working properly, liquid will come out through its pipes. If one of the coils breaks down, it will be necessary to replace the valve as a whole.

When the malfunction of the Indesit washing machine is a clogged drain filter, the liquid from the tank is either pumped out at a slow rate, or not at all. It turns out that as soon as the rinsing stage begins, the electronic module blocks the program and stops all processes.

The drainage system includes the following components:

corrugated tube;
pumping device;
filter;
drain hose.

To repair the Indesit washing machine with your own hands and remove the blockage, you need to dismantle the front panel, then unscrew the filter device on the right side. Rotations should be counterclockwise. Before repairs, you need to prepare a container for draining water. To empty the reservoir of liquid, tilt it forward slightly so that water flows freely outward along with scale, rust and small objects that may have fallen out of pockets of clothes during washing. Cleaning the external drain hose is a good idea.

This breakdown of the washing machine can be determined by a loud hum and a refusal to perform the function of collecting or draining liquid. The reason lies in the malfunctions and unstable operation of the pump pump. Very often this happens due to the accumulated debris. Threads, hair, or laces can become entangled in the impeller and block the entire appliance.

The problem is eliminated in an elementary way - the unit lies on its side, the cover is removed from the bottom, and the debris is removed. You can still get to the impeller using a simpler method, through the hole in the drain filter.

Repair of the washing machine as a result of the occurrence of such symptoms will be associated with the replacement of the heating element. Often, the design of the heating element has a long service life of up to 9-13 years. But if the equipment is used in an intensive mode with regular overload of the drum, the breakdown will be revealed much earlier.

Heating element connection diagram

To remove the heating element, you need to disconnect the Indesit washing machine from the mains and unscrew the fasteners of the rear case cover. Next, remove all the water supply pipes and dismantle the drive-type belt. 3 wires are connected to the heating element, one is for grounding, the rest are supplying. The element is fixed with screws, clamps. The terminals, wires should be disconnected, also loosen the fastening nut, and then remove the heating element to install a new one.

If the unit reproduces loud noise and vibrations, the washing machine will need to be repaired as soon as these symptoms appear. Bearings are considered to be fairly wear-resistant parts, but corrosion can shorten their service life. In any case, it is easy to diagnose the problem - you should scroll the tank by hand. Does the tank rotate involuntarily, staggers in different directions, makes a grinding noise? This means that the bearings are damaged.

In Indesites, the drum is glued, which makes the process of replacing bearings very difficult

The process of dismantling the bearings is a laborious undertaking, requiring the dismantling of virtually the entire Indesit washing machine. If there is no relevant experience, it is recommended not to take risks and entrust the task to a specialist.

In Indesit washing machines, an electronic motor breakdown occurs in rare cases, often in more budgetary modifications due to non-compliance with operating rules. For example, a similar problem can occur with the W84TX model. To remove the engine for repair, put the washer on its side, remove the cover from the bottom. If access to the required element is difficult, it will be necessary to remove the end panel. Next, the electrical wiring is disconnected and the fixing elements are unscrewed, after which the electronic motor is taken out of the case.

The design features of the Indesit washing machine are so basic that you can deal with problems such as clogging of the drain system, replacing the pump, heating element or hoses on your own. It should be remembered that when identifying more global problems, it is better to contact the wizard, otherwise you can lead to more serious problems. We offer to consider the cost of repair services in specialized companies.

The first category of complexity of repair

The model range of Indesit washing machines is not classified as a very reliable technique - this is evidenced by statistics provided by service centers. The reason was the users' appeals due to the reasons for the failure of the device. In the first five years of operation, Italian units under the Indesit brand are in repair shops much more often than machines of German and South Korean production.

Nevertheless, the equipment meets European technical standards in terms of quality, comfort and durability. The models WISL 103, WISL 102, WISL 85 and WISL 82 are especially popular among Russian users.

There are quite a few types of malfunctions that arise during the operation of machines. Of these, there are those whose calls to service centers exceed 75% of the total number of repairs:

1. Tubular heating element (TEN) at Indesit is made of stainless steel without coating. In the absence of a protective layer, the intensity of scale formation on the surface of the heating element is twice as high.
2. Surge protector is a weak point in Italian washing machines: on average, the product can withstand 3-4 years of operation. Sometimes there are deliveries of a whole batch of devices with defective surge protection devices.
3. Bearings at Indesit fail no more often than on similar devices from other manufacturers. The problem is not the difficulty of replacement, but the difficulty of accessing the defective part.
4. The control unit is a vulnerable spot on washing machines manufactured before 2012. In the latest models, an upgraded electronic module is installed. It has increased reliability, but there are also cases of failure.
5. The electric motor is trouble-free, but the motor piping, tachogenerator sensor and capacitors often fail and must be replaced.

The list does not include calls for another common problem - clogged filters. There are two of them in any car: at the water inlet from the mains and drain on the pump. This problem is fixed in most cases by users on their own.

When starting repairs with your own hands, you must first determine the cause of the breakdown.Malfunctions of the Indesit washing machine are found in a planned manner. The chain of actions is as follows:

1. Look at the display of the device - many models have a self-diagnostic function and give a hint to the user in the form of an alphanumeric error code during program execution. To determine the correct reason, it remains to decipher the received signal and choose the correct option from several recommendations.
2. In the absence of a display or information on it, listen to the sounds of the device operation and see external manifestations: increased noise appears - you need to pay attention to the bearings. Usually this breakage is detected during spinning, when the drum rotates at a high speed.
3. The next step in the search for a possible malfunction is to look inside the washing machine-automatic. The easiest way is to open the filters and check for contamination; it is more difficult to approach the bearing assembly.
4. Inspect and feel the internal parts and structures: the place of the breakdown will indicate itself. If you have the skill to work with a multimeter, ring the electrical part for the integrity of the wiring and the effectiveness of the contacts and sensors.

In order to avoid complications during the assembly of the device, it is advisable to fix the crucial moments on a photo or video medium. It is good if you have a detailed description of the disassembled assembly at hand.

The creators of the Indesit washing machine on all the latest models put a fault detection program into the control unit. For products marked WISL 103, 102, 85, WISL 82 and other designations are interpreted as follows:

1. Symbols indicating problems with the engine - F01 (short circuit) and F02 (tachogenerator sensor does not work).
2. Codes related to the temperature regime: malfunctions with the heating element relay or sensor F03 and F08, malfunction in the heating control circuit F13, drying malfunctions F14 and F15.
3. Informing codes about the involvement of water - an empty tank F04 and F07 (for this reason, the heating element is blocked), the drain pump F05 and F11 does not turn on or the drain pump F05 and F11 is damaged, the level sensor F10 is damaged.
4. Signs of faults in the electronics: general problems in the F06 system, software F09, faults in the contacts of electrical circuits F12, the control module F18 is broken.
5. Errors F16 and F17 mean, respectively, that the drum is blocked or the tank door is open.

This is an incomplete list of decryptions of fault codes for the Indesit washing machine. Rare symbols are not included in it. A complete list is included with the product.

Breakdowns can be conditionally divided into two categories: available for self-repair and requiring adjustment in a service center. The first group implies the ability and desire of the user to perform independently defined actions based on existing knowledge using a special tool. The second part of the malfunctions is within the power of only specialists of repair shops:

electronic modules;
violation of the integrity of the circuit and motor windings;
crash of the program.

In the latter case, there is no need to rush to contact the service. You can simply unplug the machine from the power supply for a day or two, and then let it complete the wash cycle. During this time, the algorithm should be reset. If it didn't work out, then go to the workshop to reprogram.

The most difficult repair is bearing replacement. Moreover, the problem is not disassembly, but inaccessibility associated with the special design of the one-piece tank. In this way, the manufacturer ensured the integrity of the unit for rearranging it as an assembly, and not in individual parts. In this case, the container is sawn along the weld, the breakage is corrected and the connection is restored.

To independently repair the bearings using this method, you will need welding equipment, tools and skill. As for saving money on repairs, the result is ambiguous: replacing the entire unit may not cost much more.

As noted above, the surge protector is a weak point in Indesit washing machines.This problem is exacerbated by high room humidity and power surges. This protection device is located where the power cord is connected to the machine. Easily dismantled after removing the top cover - just unscrew one screw. Repair of the mains filter consists in replacing it with a new one.

When a capacitor on a car engine burns out, it is better to seek the help of a specialist: it is difficult to accurately diagnose a breakdown, it can be confused with an electric motor malfunction. But it is not difficult to cope with the repair of the heating element: the error F07 appears on the display, and if not, it is determined by the lack of water heating - the drum hatch is cold. The replacement is performed independently in the following sequence:

remove the back wall of the washing machine with a screwdriver;
in the lower part of the tank, two contacts of the heating element are visible from the outside - through them, check the serviceability with a multimeter;
if not burnt out - continue searching for the cause, to be replaced - unscrew the fixing screw in the middle, remove the sealing gasket and pull out the heating element;
installation of a new heating element is carried out upside-down.

The control unit of the Indesit washing machine is poorly protected from moisture, a short circuit occurs through the contacts. This leads to damage, which can be eliminated by identifying defective contacts with a multimeter and replacing them. Fill new elements well with sealant - protect from water.

The Indesit washing machines of the WISL 102, 103, 85, 82, WISL 83 modifications are characterized by a situation when all indicators on the dashboard blink at the same time. This is due to malfunctions of the electronic module or its individual parts. The same problem is observed in the Indesit WIUL 103 model. An untrained person cannot cope with this problem and will need to call a master. But this is not the only reason, there are some that you can eliminate yourself:

there was an out-of-program discharge of water from the tank of the car;
failure of one of the heating elements - heating liquid or drying clothes;
problems with the electric motor;
breakdown of the drain pump.

To determine the true fault and its location, each of the listed devices must be tested. For a start - by inspection and listening. Engine malfunctions will give out extraneous sounds, the performance of the heating element is determined by the absence of scale and deposits on it, there are no questions with the pomp either: water either spontaneously drains out, regardless of the set program, or, conversely, is not reset in any way.

The WISL 105 model stands out from its series for its high quality, and malfunctions occur in most cases from a violation of the operating mode. This is a failure to comply with the manufacturer's recommendations set out in the instructions, unqualified independent repairs, breakdown of parts due to strenuous use and a number of external factors. Hard water causes intensive scale formation on heating elements, unstable voltage causes failure of the mains filter. Factory defect of this model is rare, as in Indesite IWSC 5105.

The WISL 62 modification is the exact opposite of the previous car. It has incorporated the disadvantages of all the above WISL devices.

Washing machines Indesit models WIUN 81 and WIUN 102 have proven themselves well and they only need preventive repairs. They rarely fail due to a factory defect, have a high operational resource.

Often, these machines have increased vibration when spinning the laundry. But this is due to the shallow drum depth - only 33 cm. Both models belong to the class of narrow machines with a small footprint. Hence their instability. Eliminate the disadvantage by making the lower part of the apparatus heavier.

Summing up, we can conclude that Indesit repairs largely coincide in complexity with the adjustment of other brands of washing machines. It is often more useful to turn to specialists than to create additional problems for yourself by unskillful actions.

The popularity of the tyralny machines Indesit received due to the low cost. But for the initial cheapness you have to pay extra with repairs - the reliability of the brand is in question.

But you can repair the Indesit washing machine with your own hands and eliminate many breakdowns if you have basic knowledge of mechanics, electrical and electronics.

First of all, you need to determine what kind of breakdown occurred. Initial diagnostics will help you decide if it is possible to fix the problem yourself or if you still have to spend money on professional repairs.

The right step would be to have a preliminary acquaintance with the scheme of the washing machine in order to have an idea of where everything is.

Sometimes, to determine the cause of the failure of household appliances, it is enough to read the instructions for use, which, among other things, contains recommendations for eliminating breakdowns.

The first step is to take a look at the display. If it is impossible to complete the specified process, the washing machine issues special codes on the display.

Error codes in the operation of the washer are given in the instructions that the manufacturer must attach to his own product:

With the help of a very useful multimeter device, it is possible to check various contacts, wiring, sensors. The device will show if there is power everywhere.

Sometimes it is enough to listen to the sound emitted by the unit. When the washing machine starts to creak, make excessive noise, and sometimes rattle, then, most likely, there are problems in the bearings or the drum, the oil seal is damaged, the counterweight fasteners are loose, the shock absorbers are in poor condition.

Calling the wizard is the only correct solution when:

the warranty period has not expired - if the operating rules are followed, the repair will be free;
threatening smoke came from the car.

In other cases, there are said to be options. But always the first stage of repair begins with disconnecting the faulty equipment from the mains. For negligence, electricity will punish necessarily and severely. An indispensable rule of a home master: do not act at random, use the instructions.

When the display does not report a malfunction, there are no leaks, smoke, burning smell, then usually the problem is easy to fix:

If home laundry won't turn on, first you need to check if the plug is firmly inserted into the outlet. Occasionally, the washing machine can shut down due to power surges. It is also necessary to make sure that the operating mode is set correctly on the control panel;
When water does not flow into the tank, it is recommended to press the button responsible for starting and stopping the unit again, make sure that the door is closed tightly. Sometimes the fault is insufficient pressure in the water supply system, perhaps the tap was simply turned off, the hose was damaged. The reason may lie in the failure of both the program and the control system. Elimination occurs by repeated access to the "Start / Pause" button;
When the drain is not working first you need to check the filter - sometimes it is enough just to clean it.

And the source of the frightening rumble can be any object (for example, a coin) that accidentally ends up in the drum.

This is a fairly frequent breakdown, although the declared service life of the heating element is 10-15 years. However, numerous washes in very hot and hard water, constant overloading of the tank, and low-grade detergents do an evil deed.

Over time, a kind of "coat" of various salts is formed on the heating element. It breaks down from overheating, it is no longer possible to restore it. A heater malfunction is indicated by a cold hatch when the wash mode is on and, of course, laundry that has not been washed in cold water.

Replacing a damaged part is quite simple: the manufacturers have placed the heating element in such a way that it is easy to get to it by opening the back cover of the case. The only inconvenience is that the car needs to be disconnected from all communications in order to turn the right side for repair. The heating element is placed under the drum pulley.Care should be taken when disconnecting and replacing the wiring board.

A minimum of tools will be required: a flat and curly screwdriver, a key with a head are enough. You will also need a multimeter or tester to check the heating element. It is wiser to buy a new heater, the original Italian one.

Disconnect the unit from all communications.
Unscrew the bolts around the perimeter of the cover.
Further, under the tank, you need to find the contacts of the heating element and attach the multimeter probes to them. Normal resistance is 25-35 Ohm, other indicators indicate a malfunction.
The next operation: disconnecting all wires with terminals, fixing their position in memory.
Then the nut is unscrewed on the bolt, the end of which is located in the center of the heater base.
In order for the bolt to go into the hole, it should be gently knocked over it.
Pull out the heating element base by picking it up with a flat screwdriver.
Move the thermal sensor from the damaged part to the new heating element.
Clean out the formed debris from the seat for the electric heater.
Leave the new heating element in its intended place, fasten it with a bolt.

Then it remains to return the wires to their original position, close the rear cover of the machine and restore the connection with communications.

This is also a fairly common problem. The pump is a weak point of automatic washing machines. In addition to a blockage, when it is enough to clean the hose and filter, the impeller can jam. It is located behind the drain filter, which must be unscrewed and removed.

To prevent the impeller, you need to try to rotate. It should not be too light: in a normal state, the impeller rotates with certain delays due to the magnet in the coil. Sometimes threads, hair, laces and other similar debris wrap around the impeller so that they even block it. All these interferences must be removed.

It happens that the plastic body is deformed and begins to clamp the blades. When there is no possibility of replacement, the blades must be cut with a knife by no more than 2 mm, and the washing machine can still be used.

If after that the work is not restored, then the breakdown is more significant and requires a detailed inspection - the pump will have to be disassembled. The car is laid on its side, the screws that fix the pump to the casing are unscrewed, the electric cable and 2 hoses are disconnected.

Clean the hoses if necessary. The tester checks the motor windings to eliminate the possibility of breakage. Typical resistance values here are 150-300 ohms.

Without hoping for memory, it is worth noting the orientation of the pump relative to the engine I. Then the pump motor is disconnected from the housing, the rotor is removed from the stator. Often everything inside is clogged with dirt that interferes with the rotation of the rotor. In such cases, a thorough rinsing is required.

The rotor axis bearing is lubricated with lithium, the oil seal is adjusted. Subsequent assembly is carried out using a sealant to prevent leaks.

If you follow the instructions for caring for your washing machine and clean the drain hose every 6 months, the likelihood of breakage of the drain system will be greatly reduced.

Indesit's motor is well-designed, reliable and durable. However, nothing is eternal, and at one not very beautiful moment, the "heart of the machine" may fail. The reason can be not only wear of the mechanism, but also excessive overload.

First, the outer panels are removed from the machine, usually the top and rear.
O Disconnect the supply wires.
Remove the belt from the pulley.
Screw the fasteners, remove the motor.

After diagnostics, the final decision is made to repair or replace the engine. Usually they tend to the latter option - it is difficult to restore the engine, it is easier to completely replace it. The installation of a new engine is carried out in the reverse order.

Before disassembly, the assembly should be photographed, then there will be no problems with what to screw in.

When in a working washing machine, especially during spinning, unusual sounds appear, and not episodic, but gradually increasing, this is a clear signal of a malfunction of the bearings, which indicates the ease of rotation of the drum.

Do-it-yourself repair in such a situation is possible, but you cannot call it simple - you need extreme care, strict adherence to the sequence of operations:

Remove the top and rear panels.
Remove dispenser, control unit.
Twist the cuff clamp, remove the cuff itself and the hatch locking device.
Remove the front wall and counterweight.
Remove the tubular electric heater, noting the sequence of connecting the wires in memory.
Disconnect the parts connected to the drum tank, dismantle the drive belt and motor.
Remove the tank, place it on a flat place with the pulley up, then unscrew the pulley bolt, remove the pulley itself.
Using a mallet (you can use a simple hammer and a wooden gasket) to sink the shaft down, untwist and divide the tank into two halves.
Remove the bearing with a special puller, dismantle the old oil seals.
After installing fresh oil seals, press in a new bearing.

The assembly of the washing machine is carried out in reverse order with strict sequence of operations. To prevent the tank from leaking, all seams must be sealed.

The main thing when replacing a bearing is care and adherence to the sequence of operations.

A flabby hatch lock can cause another nuisance - the washing machine will stop turning on. The shut-off device is also equipped with contacts, and when something prevents complete closure, electricity does not flow to the units of the unit.

Failure is usually caused by the accumulated dirt in the lock. After its elimination, the normal operation of the device, as a rule, is restored.

And the mortiser s dampens excessive vibrations that appear in the washing machine. This is especially necessary during spinning, when the rotating drum is at the highest speed. Over time, they diminish in effectiveness.

As a result - excessive vibration, atypical noises, knocking during the spin cycle. A common cause of failure is the wear of the gaskets and separating the piston and cylinder, which subsequently deform.

The shock absorber cylinder contains a rod, consisting of a rod and a gasket treated with a high-friction lubricant. Oscillations are damped by moving the piston.

The jerky jerk of the tank forces the piston into the cylinder, reducing vibration. There is also a spring in the cylinder that returns the piston to its original position - it is called the return one.

To get to the shock absorbers, you will have to remove the rear panel (in some modifications, the side or front cover can be removed). After unscrewing the nut at the bottom of the shock absorber, it is disconnected from the body. In the same way, the part is released from above. A new shock absorber is installed in place of the old one and fixed in the reverse order.

In the latest models, instead of shock absorbers, dampers are used, where the return spring has been replaced by a whole spring system attached to the upper area of the tank and providing it with a "suspended" position. This design is more reliable, better dampens unwanted shocks.

To check the performance, the damper must be removed from the case by unscrewing the bolt in its lower segment, and try to press on it so as to compress and then unclench the mechanism. If the result is minimal, the device is in normal working condition. When the piston easily changes position, the damper needs to be replaced.

It is removed from the case in the same way as conventional shock absorbers, although in some models the mounting bolts are replaced with plastic pins with latches. Install the new damper in the usual way - in reverse order with respect to the assembly.

It happens that the detergent does not want to leave the tray. This usually happens when he is poured there without measure. The problem disappears with the correct dosage.

Weak water pressure can also be to blame.It is worth trying to clean the filter where the washing machine connects to the inlet hose.

Another option is to increase the pressure at the tap supplying water. Sometimes water cannot enter the tray due to a blocked valve. Then you should pull out the tray, find the valve in the form of a key and carefully clean it.

These are the most common causes of improper detergent powder behavior and can be easily dealt with without the help of a professional. A more difficult case would be a problem with the water inlet valve where the powder does not leave the tray at all. Valve replacement is already required. The same can be said about the solenoid valve, which is responsible for filling the cuvette with water with water.

The control unit in Indesit washing machines does not have reliable protection against moisture, as a result, the condensate gets on the contacts, short circuits occur, removing the device from the working state.

Repair requires subtle diagnostics in the "Autotest" mode, serious knowledge in radio engineering, masterly possession of a soldering iron, skills in handling microcircuits, boards, semiconductors. This is usually the area of expertise of skilled professionals.

For the rare daredevils from the army of home crafts, the most general tips: