Installation for the toilet do-it-yourself repair

In detail: installation for a toilet do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Suspended installations are replacing traditional cistern systems from the market. They are much more compact than conventional floor-standing toilets, and they also look more modern.

All drain fittings are located in the wall, behind the decorative trim, which, on the one hand, is very convenient in terms of cleaning, but on the other hand, it creates certain inconveniences when repairing the drain mechanism. You can get to it only through a small window into which the flush button is mounted.

However, if you know how the drainage system of the suspended installation works, you can repair the mechanism or replace a failed part even in such cramped conditions. We will tell you how to do this now.

The principle of operation of the installation button and the flush mechanism itself is fundamentally no different from the flush device of a classic toilet bowl.

When you press the flush button, the membrane with a seal rises, and the water in the tank enters the drain channel.

Effort from flush plates for installation transmitted to the draining valve rods through special plastic rocker arms, which, when the button is pressed, raise the membrane upward.

Most modern installations have two flush plates to save water. When you press the left one, one rocker rises and 3 liters of water is supplied to the toilet, when you press the right one, two rockers rise simultaneously and 6 to 9 liters are supplied to the toilet (the exact amount is adjusted using a special switch on the drain valve).

Knowing the device and the principle of operation of the flush mechanism, you can repair the installation button or replace its individual elements with your own hands.

Video (click to play).

To do this, first you need remove the install button, since it is behind it that a technological hatch is located for access to the main mechanism for draining water.

VIDEO REVIEW

A step-by-step instruction will help to dismantle the installation key (consider the example of a button for the popular Geberit installation):

Remove the flush button. To do this, just slightly press on its lower part and remove it from the mount with an upward movement;
Remove the key frame. To do this, using a Phillips screwdriver, unscrew the two screws and remove the two plastic pushers, removing the clips from them;
Dismantle the flush button mounting brackets;
We remove the partition by gently squeezing out the two latches in the upper part;
We shut off the water supply by turning the tap counterclockwise until it stops;
We dismantle the filling valve and remove the rocker arm block outside;
We remove the drain valve retainer by squeezing out two petals in its upper part;
We remove the flush valve. It is large enough, and in order to remove it through a small window, it will have to be partially disassembled inside the tank. To do this, remove the upper part of the valve by turning it counterclockwise, and remove the second link aside. The overall length of the valve will be reduced to allow for dismantling in confined spaces.

Raise the installation button and remove

Please note: If water is constantly flowing into the toilet from the tank, the problem may not be in the button, but in the float mechanism, which does not cut off the water supply at the right time.

In this case, for safety reasons, the designers have provided a special drainage hole (overflow) in the tank, through which excess water flows into the toilet.

When choosing new fittings for the cistern and the drain button, he recommends giving preference to devices that are equipped with a water saving system.

VIDEO INSTRUCTION

Installation of the installation button is carried out in the reverse order:

We first install the lower part of the flush valve, then put the upper part on it in the tank;

Install the drain valve retainer;

We install a filling valve in the tank, which regulates the water filling level. By turning the pin, the height of the float is adjusted, which shuts off the water supply at the right time;

Install the rocker block. In this case, it is important to get to all 4 mounting points: at the fixing points of the block and the rocker arms themselves must get into the engagement of the flush valve rods;

We turn on the water supply by turning the tap clockwise until it stops;

We mount the partition, making sure that the two latches in the upper part snap into place;

Installing the frame holders;

We fasten the frame of the drain key;

We twist the pushers, install the clamps;

We carry out the installation of the installation button. It is simply put on the frame from top to bottom.

When performing all the operations for mounting / dismantling individual elements of the installation, you do not need to apply a lot of effort, since all the plastic parts may break and you will not be able to buy them separately.An innovative solution that allows you to equip a comfortable and practical bathroom - installation of an installation under sanitary fixtures. The design hides all pipes, accessories, couplings and other components in the wall, and the visible part is laconic and harmonious. How to independently install the installation for the toilet is described in the article.The toilet bowl installation system is a well-thought-out design that allows you to fix the plumbing elements and hide their connection to the sewage system. Thanks to such an installation system, it will be possible to hide the "technical stuffing" behind the false panel, and the toilet bowl and the flush button remain in the visibility zone.The installation is used when installing floor or suspended plumbing. At the same time, the second option is gaining great popularity among consumers due to its undeniable advantages:

freeing up additional space in the bathroom - especially important for small rooms;

the plumbing does not come into contact with the floor, making cleaning easier.

The installation of a toilet bowl with installation has a number of advantages over the traditional method of installing plumbing fixtures. The main advantages include:

Attractive appearance. The installation is closed with a finish that matches the style of the room. The exposed parts of the plumbing can have unusual design solutions.

Visual expansion of space - a less congested bathroom seems larger.

The use of better quality fittings. Since the components of the working mechanism are hidden and access to them is difficult, manufacturers try to minimize the risk of breakage by installing high quality float and keyboard elements.

Toilet bowls designed for installation installation are equipped with a barrel with an efficient water supply. Flushing takes place under high pressure, while water is consumed economically.

Possibility of installing the installation under various walls. The range of designs allows you to choose the model that best suits your bathroom.

It is quite possible to mount an installation for a wall-hung toilet with your own hands. The main thing is to carefully study the instructions, understand the device and observe the installation technology.

Silent operation of the drain tank.

The height of the hanging models can be adjusted, choosing the optimal value for your own height.

Despite the significant advantages, such a device has some disadvantages:

Arrangement of a toilet bowl with installation will cost more than buying ordinary plumbing.

To replace, you will have to carry out repairs to the finish of the bathroom.

More complex installation technology.

Important! There is an opinion that in case of any breakdown, you will have to dismantle the finish and disassemble the structure. In fact, as a rule, there is access to the internal parts under the removable drain button. Inspection hatches are provided for connection points and taps.

Read also: DIY kitchen renovation idea

The construction market presents two types of plumbing installations: block and frame systems.Block module "Recessed" into the load-bearing wall of the room. The design includes a plastic cistern with fittings and fasteners for fixing the toilet bowl. This option is designed to install only hinged plumbing fixtures. To erect a block installation, you should cut a niche in the wall in advance. By giving preference to such a model, it will be possible to additionally save up to 15 cm of space.Frame installation consists of a one-piece steel frame and various fasteners. Standard complete set of frame structure:

steel body;

holders for fixing the module to the wall;

drain tank system;

water supply hose;

cistern;

sewer pipe for draining;

studs for attaching the toilet;

water supply pipe;

legs that adjust the installation height.

Distinctive features of frame modules:

a wide range of installation options, both straight and corner;

the ability to install near any wall and interior partition;

the cost of frame modules is higher than that of block structures.

When buying a toilet installation, it is important to consider the following parameters:

Placement of plumbing and general arrangement in the bathroom.

Compatibility of the selected installation system with the toilet. When buying a module, you need to check with the seller whether the system is suitable for a specific model of plumbing.

The principle of operation of the flush plates and the possibility of revision through the viewing window.

Installation system complete set. At the purchase stage, you should check the availability of all items for self-installation. Sometimes, some parts are sold separately.

Important! In the plumbing market, Grohe products have proven themselves well. The manufacturer guarantees the reliability of the structure and the ability to withstand up to 400 kg.The convenient location of the toilet is the least passable place away from the door. Usually, when placing an installation, they are guided by the placement of risers. In some situations, the module has to be shifted:

installation under the window requires the use of a low module up to 82 cm;

double-sided installation - fixing plumbing on both sides of the partition is performed using a volumetric frame system that allows you to hang objects on both sides of the partition;

installation of the toilet in the corner.

After choosing the installation location, you will need to mark the wall. First, the central axis of the model should be marked, then the contours of the frame and the location of the installation on the wall / to the floor.Advice. Before installing a toilet bowl with an installation with your own hands, be sure to read the instructions and study the attached installation diagram.

the height of the toilet bowl installation from the floor level - 43 cm;

the optimal place for placing the drain button is 1 m;

distance from the base of the wall to the surface of the steel frame of the module - 15 cm;

the gap between the wall and the drain tank is at least 2 cm.

Do-it-yourself toilet installation installation height: video

The frame or frame is made of durable metals on the right, and the top is covered with an anti-corrosion layer. This part is durable - all other elements of the system will be attached to it. She is able to withstand up to 600-800 kg of load.

This characteristic will be different for each manufacturer. It is important to pay attention to the maximum permissible load of the model you like before buying. Sometimes, wanting to save money, they buy a cheap fake, where this figure is only 100 kg.

Such a frame can easily bend or crack from overload - about 70-80 kg the weight of an adult + a tank of water + the weight of the toilet itself. And if a large relative weighing more than 100 kg visits the bathroom, then it's scary to imagine what will happen. Therefore, you should not buy fakes - this is an unaffordable luxury.

All manufacturers make the cistern of the installation from plastic. It is flat or triangular, and inside it there is a special fitting to ensure automatic filling and flushing. What can happen to the tank:

The plastic container may break in the event of installation errors. If it was an independent installation and, due to inexperience, the installer made mistakes, the tank may warp and crack over time.
If the installation was carried out by a crooked master and accidentally hit it during installation, then after a short time a leak may occur at the place of the chip and it will be necessary to replace it with a new container.
The fittings installed inside the tank consist of plastic parts, rubber and silicone gaskets. Problems often arise due to wear and tear on one of the components.

Inlet and outlet assemblies may leak. The coarse filter installed before water enters the drain tank becomes clogged over time.And at the junctions of all the pipes, the tightness can be broken - elastic rubber gaskets fail over time, turning into hard plastic parts.

Problems can also arise with a toilet bowl - from an ordinary chip to a violation of the system for draining the working fluid into the sewer riser.

To find the source of the problem, due to which the toilet went out of working condition, you can resort to calling a plumber, call a neighbor who helps everyone and takes inexpensively, or try to do everything with your own hands.

The first option is safe, but it requires an agreement on the time of work and will cost a decent amount of money. Of course, this is the most convenient and simple option - you don't need to do anything, twist, change - he gave money and accepted a job.

The option with a neighbor / acquaintance of acquaintances is like a cat in a poke. Doubtful work quality can lead to even bigger problems and more serious breakdowns.

The third option involves an independent study of the installation system installed in your bathroom and its repair. This is a simple activity that cannot be rushed. It is important to take the manufacturer's instructions and carefully read the corresponding section. If the instruction is lost, you can find it on the websites of online stores or ask a plumbing store consultant.

All controversial moments arising in the process of repairing the installation can be viewed in thematic videos. Models of fittings for built-in cisterns from different manufacturers may differ from each other.

It is often enough to disassemble the drain tank fittings, rinse the components, replace the worn out parts, reassemble everything, and the system works like a well-oiled mechanism - without failures.

Together with the purchase of a toilet installation, it is advisable to immediately buy a spare repair kit. It may be needed after 10-12 years or after 3-4 years from the start of using the system. In order not to run around and look for spare parts, you should always have them in the closet / on the shelf with tools.

The amount of repair work will depend on what exactly broke. The most common problems associated with valves are:

Water continues to flow after the flush is complete. The reason may be accidental ingestion of foreign objects - hair, cardboard, pieces of construction waste and other inclusions - into the drain tank. The solution to the issue is to get the filling and drain mechanisms and eliminate the problem;
Water slowly comes out of the cistern after pressing the flush button. Possible breakdown of the drain mechanism lifting accordion. Exit - replace the drain mechanism;
No water is collected in the tank - there may be problems with the float. It can slide off the mount. The solution is to disassemble the system and put the float in place;
The valve does not completely shut off the water - change the membrane or replace the gasket.

It turns out that in most cases you need to look inside the cistern without getting it out of the wall. This will be done by a home craftsman, having secured instructions for dismantling the fittings.

The flush button is attached to a special frame and connected to the system using levers and cables. They are pneumatic and mechanical. It is important that the devices are reliable and of high quality for a long service life.

On sale you can see various models of buttons - backlit, with two and with one key. They differ in size, color, shape and material from which they are made. But some options can be universal - to fit the installations of different manufacturers.

If the flush button does not work well, then you need to remove it and look at the installation revision window. It is possible that the air hose supplied to the installation through the pneumatic button is not tight. Or the button itself is broken.

The solution to the issue depends on the situation - adjusting the hose or buying a new button.Often, in the instructions for a particular model, the manufacturer indicates which buttons are suitable.

When you have to find a breakdown inside the installation, it is not at all necessary to break the wall. The cistern mechanism can be reached through the inspection window. Let's take a closer look at how to do this using the example of the Geberit installation.

First you need to remove the cover plate with the flush button by pressing down and pulling it towards you. Then you have to remove the frame on which the key is attached.

To do this, unscrew the screws, pull out the plastic pusher clips. Then, in a way that depends on the model and manufacturer of plumbing, you have to remove the partition by pressing on its latches. On this partition, a diagram for dismantling the cistern fittings can be applied, which is used to clean the valves and check the gaskets.

An important step is to shut off the water entering the cistern. Otherwise, you can arrange a real catastrophe of a local scale by your actions - to flood not only your bathroom, but also your neighbors below.

Next, you should dismantle the filling valve - you must first remove the rocker arm block, and during reassembly, you have to get two rockers into the engagement of the flush valve and into 2 fixation points.

Then it was the turn of the filling valve itself, to which a flexible water supply pipe is connected. He is carefully taken out. This valve regulates the level of water filling in the tank - if you twist the plastic pin, you can raise or lower the float above or lower, which ensures that the tank is filled in the specified volume.

Now the next step is to remove the drain valve retainer - for this, the wings are spread in opposite directions, which removes the part from the cordon.

It is necessary to dismantle a rather long flush valve - one cannot do without partial dismantling inside the tank. To do this, holding the inner part, you need to unscrew the upper part and lower the second rod to the side.

That's it - the valve can be easily removed from the inner space of the cistern built into the wall. It consists of two blocks - the upper one for a small one, and the lower one for a large drain. There is a basket on the bottom of the valve, which can be easily removed if it is necessary to replace the gasket.

Now all the parts need to be carefully examined, rinsed under running water, and their condition should be assessed for wear. Replace broken parts, gaskets. After elimination of breakdowns or planned cleaning of all parts of the fittings, it is necessary to assemble all the components strictly in the reverse order.

If the state of the mechanism is extremely poor, then you need to replace the entire mechanism with a new one, using new fittings for the drain tank for this.

You can often face a situation when everything is in order with the ventilation system of the bathroom, but under the wall-hung toilet it flows and there is a disgusting sewage smell in the room, and water can flow behind the tiles inside the structure.

Here, the problem may be associated with the nodes for connecting the tank to the toilet and the toilet to the sewer.

The fact is that the basis of these troubles may be in mistakes made during the installation. It is important that the piping is correctly routed before installing the installation. Here, the length of the supply pipe and the left sewer inlet matters.

In some models of the installation, the pipes are short. This must be taken into account so that later you do not have to invent dubious schemes for sealing. The branch pipes from the installation are usually 90 mm in diameter. They are placed through an adapter into the drain, which is usually 110 mm.

When the adapter for the toilet or the installation pipe connecting the system to the sewer is short, it will be correct to buy a pipe from another manufacturer, longer. It will become perfect and everything will be hermetically sealed.

You should not save on the adapter - everything should be hermetically sealed here, there should be leaks.Some of this length is enough, while others, like the latest models, for example, Grohe, have short pipes.

It is possible to disassemble the installation without destroying the wall of the bathroom. How to do it yourself is demonstrated in the video:

The appearance of an unpleasant odor may be the result of an error when connecting the toilet bowl through the installation pipe to the sewer. A video clip will help to eliminate this problem:

The installation system of a wall-hung toilet has undoubted advantages over standard cisterns: these are high-quality flush mechanisms, a large selection of buttons and keys, and the ability to install in a room with any interior. The main advantage is that it can be hidden.

But no matter how high-quality the equipment is, it tends to fail. What contributes to this and how to repair the installation of the toilet will be discussed below. So, the types of breakdowns can be very different. Let's dwell only on the most common ones:

The tank is leaking (the reason, most often, is in the bottom valve);
The tank does not fill (the reason is a clogged filter or water supply hose);
Continuous filling of the tank (the reason is the failure of the gasket or its incorrect installation);
Malfunctions of the drain mechanism (the reason is the wrong choice of a disinfectant)

It is easy to eliminate all these and other possible malfunctions through the hole of the drain button. That is, you don't have to dismantle the partition or break the tiles. The specialist carries out a simple repair of the installation of a suspended toilet through the inspection window, because all parts of the system can be easily removed and removed.

As mentioned above, only craftsmen will perform high-quality repairs. But you can get down to business on your own, having previously studied the repair of the tank with the installation of the video, which can be viewed below. It clearly and simply tells how to dismantle the equipment, how to remove the installation button and flush the Geberi filling valve.

Procedure for dismantling the Geberit installation system:

Step one: remove the flush plate. To do this, you need to press on it from below and, thereby, carefully remove it from the cordon, and only then remove it from the wall.
Step two: remove the frame. First, the screws fixing it on the sides are unscrewed, then the pusher latches are removed and the frame is removed.
Step three: remove the septum. It is necessary to press on the special latches and remove it.
Step four: shut off the water. Without this, the repair of the cistern of the Geberite installation will turn into a flood.
Step five: dismantle the filling valve and remove the rocker arm assembly.
Step six: remove the drain valve retainer.
Step seven: dismantle the drain valve, which is located inside the tank. That's it, dismantling has been completed and repair work can be carried out.

Accordingly, the assembly of the installation after all the necessary reconstructions is carried out in the reverse order.

Having installed the installation system, after a while you can notice that water overflows through the valve and enters the tank.This is a signal that, due to harmful impurities in the water, the inlet valve of the system is clogged. There is no need to rush into panic, since all this is easy to fix on your own by watching a short video on the topic.

First, remove the valve itself. In principle, there is no need to remove it completely. It is enough to unscrew the cover and remove the rubber gasket. So it will need to be thoroughly rinsed under a strong stream of water. For reliability, we also wash the valve cover.

Now we collect everything in the reverse order and see that the malfunction has been eliminated. In such an easy way, you can independently repair the installation of a wall-hung toilet.