Details: jazzway LED lamps DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Ecology of consumption. Life hack: Since LED lamps are gaining more and more popularity and are still quite expensive, the question of repairing them arises.
Experience in LED lamp repair
My LED lamps collection dates back to October 2012. It was then that I first purchased 5W. R50 Jazzway lamp. Then there were many different copies of lamps from Jazzway, Navigator, BBK, lamps from Aliexpress.
It is clear that lamps differ in quality from different manufacturers and from one manufacturer in different price categories - lamp lines.
At one time in early 2013. I ordered Jazzway lamps in Krasnoyarsk - ECO R50 line. Because I have 80% of R50 lamps at home, then some of the R50 ECO lamps began to fail in 2015. Of course, it is very offensive when you pay 150 rubles for a lamp, you count on 30-50 thousand hours of operation, and the lamp breaks after 1.5-2 years of operation in a gentle mode. But in most cases the matter is fixable.
The aforementioned Jazzway R50 ECO 3.5W. the problem is always the same - faulty LED. I came across 3 of these over the past year. The design of the lamp is based on 24 SMD3014 LEDs (nominal 0.1W). Apparently, the LEDs operate in an uncomfortable mode (without an aluminum radiator), while they are overclocked above their nominal value.
Symptoms of a burnt out LED:
1. The lamp goes into backlight mode.
2. The lamp stops working, but there is no visible damage to the lamp, and there is no burning smell either.
3. The LED on the board has a darkened appearance or traces of burnout.
1. First you need to remove the bulb from the lamp. Because Since most of the diffusers are now made of polycarbonate, removing the diffuser should not cause any difficulties (of course, if the diffuser is not soldered into the lamp body). A simple indicator screwdriver is required to remove the lens.
Video (click to play). |
2. Because Usually on the LED board, all LEDs are connected in series, the failure of one of the LEDs leads to an automatic open circuit and a corresponding loss of lamp performance. The second step is to find the faulty LED. If the burned-out LED is not visually visible, then the LEDs are checked using a multimeter. (see photo).
- working LED - check with a multimeter.
3. After detecting a faulty LED. it is necessary to remove the LEDs from the board and replace the LED with a new one, or re-solder the LED contacts. Close the circuit.
4. After soldering, the lamp should work.
Replacing the capacitor
The most common reason for a breakdown is a cheap Chinese capacitor burned out. The easiest way out of this situation is to replace it with a new capacitor, and it is also a cheap part. published by my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/941. Subscribe to our youtube channel Econet.ru https://youtube.com/channel/UCXd71u0w04qcwk32c8kY2BA/videos
With the advent of LED technology, lighting systems have taken to a whole new level. Economical, environmentally friendly and electrically safe devices are used everywhere today - they have replaced the standard "Ilyich lamps" and the "housekeepers" that have gained popularity. The former have long been outdated from a moral point of view, the latter are extremely hazardous to health due to the mercury vapor contained inside.
Despite the long service life, even such devices fail over time. In some situations, expensive repair of LED lamps can be done independently, at home, which we will consider further.
Before disassembling a failed LED lamp into its component parts, be sure to study its structure and principle of operation. Standard equipment of this type includes an electronic power supply board, a light filter and a housing with a base. Cheaper models use conventional capacitors instead of current and voltage limiters.
One lamp can have several dozen LEDs that are connected in series or in parallel. In the second case, the design turns out to be expensive (a separate resistor is connected to each led diode or group), so not everyone can afford it.
The principle of operation of an LED is almost identical to a semiconductor element. The current between the anode and cathode travels in a straight line, which leads to the formation of a glow. Each LED individually is characterized by a minimum power, which is why several pieces are used at once. To create the desired luminous flux, a phosphor coating is used, which transforms the light into a spectrum visible to the human eye.
High-quality models contain a high-tech driver that performs the function of a converter along with a diode group. The primary voltage goes to a transformer that reduces the characteristics of the current. At the output of the element, we get the constant current necessary to power the led diodes. In order to reduce ripple in the circuit, an auxiliary capacitor is used.
Despite the numerous varieties, differences in devices, the number of LEDs used, all lighting devices of this type are characterized by the same design, which simplifies their maintenance.
There are several possible malfunctions of LED devices, which is associated with their albeit similar, but rather complex design. The most common breakdowns among the rest are accompanied by the following points:
- complete absence of glow;
- periodic lack of lighting;
- short-term flickering;
- turning off the light at random moments;
- damage to a light bulb or LED.
There are even more reasons for the appearance of breakdowns. The most common of them are the following:
- Violation of the rules and recommendations for the operation of LED devices. When buying a new lamp, be sure to study the conditions for its operation, prescribed in the technical manual. If you ignore any rule, the probability of breakdowns increases several times.
- Overheating of equipment. By themselves, the LEDs practically do not heat up in operation, but if the temperature exceeds the declared 50-60 degrees, then the filament, the holder or the peeling of the contacts on the electronic board may occur. Overheating sometimes occurs due to the fact that a luminaire not intended for these purposes is installed inside the stretch ceiling. This prevents it from cooling naturally.
- Burnout led diode - full or partial. This can lead to high voltage surges in the network or a burnout of the capacitor.
Important! The last breakdown is relevant for cheap devices that use low-quality boards.
If you go deeper, then you can identify several other, more rare, but no less interesting reasons, due to which the LED lamp may not work:
- technical violations when connecting to the power supply;
- short circuit;
- incorrect installation of equipment;
- errors in the construction of elements in the connection diagram;
- poor quality product - when trying to save money, do not forget that you are buying a "pig in a poke".
In such devices, the contacts may be initially poorly soldered, or a cheap capacitor is used instead of the driver. This is a so-called manufacturing defect.
LED ceiling lights with a remote control often fail due to factory defects. Thus, in order to carry out repairs, it is important to correctly establish not only the breakdown, but also the cause of its occurrence.
To carry out high-quality repairs that guarantee the serviceability of the product and its long-term operation in the future, painstaking preparation is required. First, dismantle the chandelier, wall lamp. In the case of table lamps, simply unplug them from the mains supply.In the future, some tools and materials will come in handy, including a screwdriver, pliers, electrical tape, a knife. Pliers or pliers come in handy if the device body is connected using special twists. Use a multimeter to check the contacts.
Since LEDs are small in size, tweezers are useful for manipulating them. Subsequently, if an open circuit is detected or an element needs to be replaced, a soldering iron may be required. In order to replace LED diodes, use a drill with a variety of drills.
Do not forget that each tool must be electrically insulated - it is forbidden to work with pliers or pliers with bare metal handles.
Remote control LED pendant lights are relatively new. Their device is not familiar to everyone, so we will briefly consider the design of the devices.
In the simplest configuration, an LED chandelier consists of a body (metal, plastic, glass), a block with a regulator (driver). The last element is used as a voltage rectifier; terminals and clamps are placed on it, to which power is supplied from the industrial network. The power supply is connected to the lamps with wires.
In complex chandeliers, an antenna, a control unit, a regulator (several units) are used, which is necessary for automatic tuning. Raster lighting fixtures contain several drivers and LED lamps of various kinds. The sequence of repairs directly depends on the specific type of luminaire.
Study the design of the device using the instructions supplied with it to figure out where the control units are. They can be installed both inside and outside the product.
Repairing a chandelier without a remote control is much easier. In such a device, a diode or diode bridge with electrolytes and resistors is installed. There is also a coil with winding to reduce ripple.
To properly repair your outdoor or indoor luminaire, follow the step-by-step instructions:
- Remove the device from the ceiling or wall and remove the enclosure cover.
- Examine the electronic circuit to make out visible defects (or confirm their absence). These include wire breaks.
- Remove shade and other decorative hardware ornaments, and unscrew LED bulbs, if used.
- Examine the plinth for burnt spots. You can use a regular knife for stripping.
- Perform the twisting again, tighten all the screws on the elements that are attached to the board. If there are no visible defects, examine the lamp directly.
Let's take a look at the easiest method to test an LED circuit. First, secure the lamp using a cut plastic bottle with a smaller diameter. A lamp is inserted into it. To supply power, use the auxiliary power supply (in the case of a 12 or 24 V device).
Instead of ringing each LED diode in the circuit, you can resort to a simpler method. Place a jumper between the pins of each diode in turn using tweezers. If there is no jumper, then take any wire, having previously stripped both ends and tinned the contacts.
It is important that the lamp is connected to the network at this moment. As soon as you close the contacts on the burned out LED, the device will light up. If this does not happen, then it is possible that more than one diode has burned out.
Continue visual inspection of the circuit and look for burnout spots, swollen capacitors, examine each track on the board. Solder if any broken contacts are found. If the circuit consists of 10 or less elements, then in no case replace the burned out LED with a wire or a jumper. This can overload the coils and burn out diodes.
Most often, the reason for the breakdown of a chandelier with a remote control is overheating of the matrix. In such a situation, repairs are carried out as follows:
- Remove and disassemble the chandelier.
- Find out the cause of the breakdown - find the burned out elements.
- If you need to replace components and perform soldering, be sure to study the device diagram attached to the warranty card.
The controller, antenna or control unit may burn out. In this case, a banal replacement of a failed product is required.
Most LED lighting fixtures come with heat sinks. The presence of this element is a sign of the high quality of the device. In these products, a special seat is allocated, and a radiator is used to remove heat. The thermal paste needs to be replaced periodically. If this is not done, then over time the heatsink will lose its efficiency and the board or block will burn out. Disassemble the device and make sure the thermal grease is applied to both planes of the seat.
If necessary, apply a thin layer of special grease yourself to the entire surface of the seat. Too much thermal paste affects heat transfer as negatively as its absence. To increase the heat output, you can screw an additional aluminum plate to the radiator, making sure that it does not block the main airflow.
Do-it-yourself high-quality repair of LED light sources is possible subject to compliance with safety rules and the presence of a structural diagram of the electrical appliance. The article described in detail the main causes and types of malfunctions, and gave recommendations for their search and elimination.
Faults in LED lamps are different. For example, a diode has burned out or a board is out of order. Often, lamps burn out if they are placed outside, for example, in a lantern. Condensation in this case collects inside the lamp body, later you can find out that it burned out, stopped working. Such an LED lamp needs modification and soldering of the diodes.
If necessary, in the event of a diode breakdown, the diode strip can be altered by soldering a jumper instead of the burnt out diode.
LED corn lamps, for example, are great for main lighting. These lamps are of high quality, but expensive. Also, an electronic table lamp can also work in conjunction with LEDs. The subwoofer is often decorated with LEDs for an interesting look.
In order to disassemble electric LED bulbs that have stopped burning:
- You will need a soldering iron and a screwdriver.
- First of all, we disassemble the glass, which can be removed quite easily on some lamps.
- You just need to take the cap with your hand and pull it off.
- The cap is matte light, so it softens the hard light from the LEDs well.
- Inside the bulbs is a matrix with a large number of LEDs.
Next, you need a screwdriver to disassemble the light bulb. The radiator is carefully pushed in with a screwdriver and removed from the case. The LED matrix itself is soldered to the wires, the pads have a plus of gray and a minus of white. This needs to be unsoldered.At the bottom of the case is a switching power supply that converts 220V into a voltage suitable for powering LEDs.
How does a Navigator or Ecola LED lamp work? What does it look like inside, because its internal structure is not visible because of the case? Of course, the incandescent lamp is already in the past, it is transparent, so its device can be seen without disassembling the light bulb.
The main part of the LED lamp includes a board with LEDs (or on a strip of their circuit) and an electronic board (driversm7307):
- The driver rectifies the alternating current and stabilizes it.
- Also, the LED lamp has capacitors on the board.
- The voltage of 220V is reduced to approximately 100 volts, rectified by a diode bridge.
- There is also a smoothing capacitor (rectifier mb6s), which removes ripple.
- The controller is built on the bp2831a microcircuit.
The microcircuit begins to generate a sequence of pulses to the key field-effect transistor, which leads to the appearance of a voltage on the winding. In Chinese lamps, everything is arranged much easier, but such a lamp will not last long either.
They are equipped with a non-isolated step-down constant current LED driver bp9833d.
It is not of decent quality, so you may need to replace the lamp soon. It happens that they fail after a month of use, although LED lamps are designed to last for many years.
It is no secret that LED lighting is penetrating our lives more and more extensively. The Videx LED lamp with an e27 base, 7 W, 220V, with a temperature of 3000 Kelvin and a luminous flux of 560 lumens is not endowed with waterproofing and, as a result, condensation can collect in it and breakdown occur.
LEDs are suitable for everything:
- For basic lighting;
- For a table lamp;
- And even for the street.
To repair an LED bulb, you first need to check the LEDs. After removing the matrix with LEDs, you need to take a tester and check them. Having found a burned out LED, you need to replace it or separate it by soldering a jumper. It remains to collect everything in reverse order, everything in its place.
Before repairing LED luminaires from such companies as Cosmos, Gx53, Jazzway, Maxus or Ft9216 mortise luminaires, you must first disassemble them. To test the operation of the Maxus LED lamp, you need to prepare a long electrical cord, connect it to the lamp and to the network.
Watching the reaction of the lamp, you can understand what exactly does not work in it and how to fix it.
If, when connected to the network, no reaction of the LED lamp is observed, then you need to take a tester and ring the chain from the plug itself to the transformer. If it is found that power is supplied to the luminaire, then you need to look at the output voltage. Since each of the lines is connected in series in the luminaire, a certain current must be kept in the circuit so that the LEDs do not burn out. Also, you need to check all the LEDs in the luminaire. If they work, then you need to check the block.
The electrical circuit of the power supply is visually divided into parts:
- PPS or KKM (power factor corrector);
- Ice driver lis8516 (it is quite difficult to find an analogue of such a driver);
- LEDs.
If the load is of sufficiently high power, at the peak of the capacitor charge, the consumption goes directly from the network. This is very bad for the shape of the sinusoidal voltage. To charge the capacitor not only when the voltage in the network is higher than the voltage of the element, but constantly, for this, a power factor corrector was invented. If you use it, then the capacitor is charged constantly in small pulses, and thus the voltage in the network becomes better. To check the operation of the power factor corrector, you need to take a tester, set it to 1000 volts and connect it to a capacitor.Getting started diagnosing and checking the lis8512 led driver, first of all, you need to check the choke with a continuity tester. Also, observing the polarity, you need to check the diode. You can check the resistance across the resistor.
How to check the LED in an LED lamp? There are some nuances in solving this problem. LEDs in lamps are different. In order to check them, sometimes a standard multimeter is not enough, since the voltage on the multimeter probes is only up to 3V.
LED bulb can be tested with single crystal low voltage LED. To do this, you need to turn on the tester for sound continuity, and check the LEDs using the probes. When checking the LED, the polarity must be observed. Put the red probe of the multimeter to the positive terminal of the LED, and the black one to the negative terminal.
Peculiarities:
- If the polarity is incorrect, the LED will not light up.
- If the LED is working, then when checked with a multimeter, it will glow.
- But there are also 2-crystal LEDs, 3-crystal LEDs, and you cannot check them with a simple multimeter.
- When you try to do this, none of the LEDs will light up.
What's the matter, maybe the LEDs are not working properly? No, because these LEDs work from increased voltage, since there are several crystals inside. A lamp with multichip LEDs containing 2 or more crystals in its structure is characterized by a fundamental sequence of their connection, and an operating voltage of more than 3V. To test the LEDs in such a lamp, a higher voltage is needed than on the multimeter probes. Such LEDs are used in powerful floodlights of 10 W and higher. A floodlight with a powerful LED will last for a long time.
If there is no reaction when checking with a multimeter, in such a situation you can take a 12 volt power supply and prepare a connector for it, from which 2 wires will go, and in series 1 1 kΩ resistor. It is needed in order not to damage the LED during testing. A resistor connected in series will limit the maximum current through the LED under test, which will prevent damage when tested from the power supply.
To check, you need:
- Plug the power supply into the network;
- Take improvised probes in the form of wires (for convenience, you can put probes from a multimeter);
- Trying to check the LED.
If everything is done correctly, the LED will light up, which judges its serviceability. When the LED lamp burns out and does not turn on, it is not necessary to throw it away. You can resort to a small repair of an LED lamp at home with minimal costs, both money and time. The most common reasons for the failure of an ice lamp is the burnout of the LED and not soldering the wire to the base. The base must be soldered to the wiring. You can disassemble and eliminate the cause of the breakdown of an Asd lamp with an e27 base as follows. Analysis begins with the removal of the flask. This is a tricky process as it is sealed with a sealant. You can try to open it, or you can corny neatly cut it with a hacksaw for metal.
To determine which LED has burned out, you just need to look. There will be a black dot on the burned out diode. The ideal option, of course, would be to change the burned out diode to exactly the same working one. In order for the LED lamp to be suitable and to work for a long time, you can put and solder a jumper around the edges of the burnt out diode.
With a variety of lighting devices on the counters of the country, LEDs remain out of competition due to their efficiency and durability. However, a high-quality product is not always purchased, because in a store you cannot disassemble the goods for inspection. And in this case, it is not a fact that everyone will determine from what parts it is assembled.Lamps burn out, and it becomes expensive to buy new ones. The solution is to repair LED lamps with your own hands. This work is within the power of even a novice home craftsman, and the details are inexpensive. Today we will figure out how to check the lighting device, in what cases the product is repaired and how to do it.
It is known that LEDs cannot work directly from a 220 V network. To do this, they need additional equipment, which, most often, fails. We will talk about him today. Consider the circuit of an LED driver, without which the operation of the lighting device is impossible. Along the way, we will conduct an educational program for those who do not understand anything in electronics.
The 220V LED lamp driver circuit consists of:
- diode bridge;
- resistances;
- resistors.
The diode bridge serves to rectify the current (converting it from alternating to direct current). On the graph, this looks like a cut-off of a half-wave of a sine wave. Resistances limit current, and capacitors store energy by increasing the frequency. Consider the principle of operation on the circuit of a 220 V LED lamp.
Having understood the principle of operation and the driver circuit, the decision on how to fix a 220V LED lamp will no longer seem difficult. If we talk about high-quality lighting devices, then you should not expect trouble from them. They work for the entire prescribed period and do not fade, although there are "diseases" to which they are also susceptible. Let's talk about how to deal with them.
To make it easier to understand the reasons, we summarize all the data in one common table.
Good to know! Repair of LED lamps is impossible to carry out indefinitely. It is much easier to eliminate negative factors affecting durability and not to purchase cheap products. Savings today will cost you tomorrow. As economist Adam Smith said, "I'm not rich enough to buy cheap things."
Before you repair an LED lamp with your own hands, pay attention to some details that require less labor. Checking the cartridge and the voltage in it is the first thing to do.
Important! Repair of LED lamps requires a multimeter - without it, it will not be possible to ring the driver elements. A soldering station is also required.
A soldering station is required for the repair of LED chandeliers and lighting fixtures. After all, overheating of their elements leads to failure. The heating temperature during soldering should be no higher than 2600, while the soldering iron heats up more. But there is a way out. We use a piece of copper core with a cross section of 4 mm, which is wound around the tip of the soldering iron with a tight spiral. The more you lengthen the sting, the lower its temperature. Convenient if the multimeter has a thermometer function. In this case, it can be adjusted more precisely.
But before you repair LED spotlights, chandeliers or lamps, you need to determine the cause of the failure.
One of the problems that a novice home craftsman faces is how to disassemble an LED light bulb. To do this, you need an awl, solvent and a syringe with a needle. The diffuser of the LED lamp is glued to the body with a sealant that must be removed. Passing carefully along the edge of the diffuser with an awl, inject the solvent with a syringe. After 2 ÷ 3 minutes, lightly twisting, the diffuser is removed.
Some lighting fixtures are made without gluing with a sealant. In this case, it is enough to turn the diffuser and remove it from the housing.
Having disassembled the lighting device, pay attention to the LED elements. Burned is often identified visually: there are burn marks or black dots on it. Then we change the faulty part and check the functionality. We will describe the replacement in detail in the step-by-step instructions.
If the LED elements are in order, go to the driver. To check the performance of its parts, you need to solder them from the printed circuit board.The value of the resistors (resistances) is indicated on the board, and the parameters of the capacitor are indicated on the case. When dialing with a multimeter in the appropriate modes, there should be no deviations. However, often failed capacitors are determined visually - they swell or burst. The solution is to replace it with a suitable one in terms of technical parameters.
Replacing capacitors and resistances, unlike LEDs, is often performed with a conventional soldering iron. In this case, you should be careful not to overheat the nearest contacts and elements.
If you have a soldering station or a hair dryer, this job is simple. It is more difficult to work with a soldering iron, but it is also possible.
Good to know! If there are no working LED elements at hand, you can install a jumper instead of the burnt one. Such a lamp will not work for a long time, but it will be possible to win some time. However, such repairs are made only if the number of elements is more than six. Otherwise, the day is the maximum work of the repair product.
Modern lamps run on SMD LED elements that can be soldered out of an LED strip. But it is worth choosing those that are suitable for technical characteristics. If there are none, it is better to change everything.
Related article:
If the driver consists of smaller SMD components, use a copper wire soldering iron on the tip. A visual inspection revealed a burnt element - we solder it and select the one that matches the marking. No visible damage is more difficult. We'll have to solder all the details and ring them separately. Having found the burnt one, we change it to a workable one and mount the elements in place. It is convenient to use tweezers for this.
Useful advice! Do not remove all elements from the PCB at the same time. They are similar in appearance, you can later confuse the location. It is better to solder the elements one at a time and, after checking, mount them in place.
When installing lighting in rooms with high humidity (bathroom or kitchen), stabilizing power supplies are used, which lower the voltage to a safe one (12 or 24 volts). The stabilizer can fail for several reasons. The main ones are excessive load (power consumption of the luminaires) or the wrong choice of the degree of protection of the unit. Such devices are repaired in specialized services. At home, this is unrealistic without the availability of equipment and knowledge in the field of radio electronics. In this case, the power supply unit will have to be replaced.
Very important! All work on replacing the stabilizing LED power supply is carried out with the voltage removed. Do not rely on the switch - it may be incorrectly wired. The voltage is disconnected in the distribution board of the apartment. Remember that touching live parts with your hand is life-threatening.
You need to pay attention to the technical characteristics of the device - the power must exceed the parameters of the lamps that are powered from it. Having disconnected the failed unit, we connect a new one according to the diagram. It can be found in the technical documentation of the device. This is not difficult - all wires are color-coded, and the contacts are letter designation.
Plays the role and degree of protection of the device (IP). For the bathroom, the device must be marked at least IP45.
Related article:
If the reason for the flickering of the LED lamp is the failure of the capacitor (it needs to be replaced), then periodic blinking when the light is off is easier to solve. The reason for this "behavior" of the luminaire is the backlight-indicator on the switch key.
The capacitor located in the driver circuit accumulates voltage, and when the limit is reached, it gives out a discharge. The key backlight transmits a small amount of electricity, which does not in any way affect incandescent bulbs or "halogens", but this voltage is enough for the capacitor to start accumulating it. At a certain moment, it gives out a discharge to the LEDs, after which it switches back to accumulation. There are two ways to solve this problem:
- We take out the key from the switch and turn off the backlight. The method is simple, but indications that add value to the switch are no longer useful.
- We disassemble the chandelier and change the phase wire with zero places on each cartridge. The method is more complicated, but it retains the functionality of the switch. In the dark, you can see it well, and this is a plus.
Not only LED lamps, but also CFLs are susceptible to flashing. The device of their PRU (starting and regulating device) works on a similar principle, which allows the capacitor to store energy.
Consider an example of a simple LED lamp repair:
LED lamps, whatever one may say, have more benefits than other types of lighting fixtures. Environmental friendliness, economy of consumption, long service life. By the way, the latter is often overshadowed by an early breakdown. And since the cost of such a lamp is quite impressive, then, if possible, I really want to return it to its former possibility of further operation.
Can I repair light-emitting diode (LED) lamps myself? Yes. Undoubtedly, if you know a few tricks before engaging in such a competent occupation.
Disassemble the lamp carefully. Remember exactly where which parts are attached and what the fastening system is. You can photograph each stage or write it down, but in reality the design is elementary simple.
The LED lamp consists of the following parts:
- base;
- lamp body;
- domed matt milky light diffuser;
- under the dome there is a round board with LEDs;
- below are the power supply drivers (more often in case of breakdowns - a transformerless rectifier, which makes the lamp cheap and not durable in operation).
- a multimeter that will allow you to determine the location of the breakdown. This is if it cannot be localized with the naked eye, then they use a similar device (for example, check the LED with a multimeter);
- it also doesn’t interfere with a soldering iron to reconnect the LEDs and the power supply;
- a screwdriver for loosening bolts and separating spare parts from the base;
- scalpel or knife with a thin blade.
- Disassembly is simple, but requires careful hands.
- Use a thin screwdriver to pry the matte dome of the light bulb and remove it. Sometimes it is tight, but nevertheless, this part must be removed.
- Unscrew the screws on the LED board.
- Pry off the plate again and tear it off from its home.
- We separate the base, like grandmother's jar of jam. The depressed dot notches hold the base / plinth in place.
- Bend gently the sides of the base precisely in the squeezed areas along the entire circumference. With a little effort, the plinth is removed.
- Separate the wiring on the LED board with a knife.
- Now you can remove the power supply. Ready.
- After the disassembled lamp lies on the table in front of you, it is worth starting a visual inspection: burned out or flooded areas are the focus of your device's dysfunction.
There are certain rules for connecting LED strips to a 220v network, which should be taken into account when installing at home. Details about the features of such schemes can be found here.
Naturally, faulty LEDs will not light up. To change them, you still need a soldering iron and a neat hand of the master, you can't get away from this. Here you can choose for yourself: buy a new lamp or pay for the soldering service. Briefly about buying: match the same LEDs as in your lamp. There are different qualities and even shades (bluish, blue).
That's all the tricks to repair your RGB LED and monochrome lamps yourself. A teenager, a master, and a strong woman can cope with this. Bright light to your home!
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