homeQuicklyHow to make a do-it-yourself engine overhaul
How to make a do-it-yourself engine overhaul
In detail: how to make a do-it-yourself engine overhaul from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
The older the engine becomes, the more often it needs repairs. And sometimes the usual repair is not enough, and then the time comes for a complex and time-consuming operation - engine overhaul... Engine overhaul is the maximum possible engine upgrade, recreating its main characteristics and indicators to the initial level. Unlike the engine bulkhead, during a major overhaul, not only components and assemblies with faults are repaired and brought to a close to ideal condition, but also all the component parts of the motor.
There are several signs by which you can understand that we need a major overhaul for the engine:
Understated compression, increased oil consumption, thick dark gray exhaust.
Low oil pressure, repeated sounds in the crank mechanism.
Large wear of the cylinder-piston group or longitudinal movement of the crankshaft (this wear can only be diagnosed with the help of special equipment).
Usually the question of engine overhaul appears after 150-200 thousand kilometers... However, each engine has its own characteristics, and each machine has its own conditions of use, so in each case this indicator may be different.
Almost all auto repair shops offer overhaul, but some (experienced) motorists prefer to do overhaul of the motor with their own hands.
First you need to pay attention to the fact that engine overhaul - the procedure is long, complicated and laborious... To complete it, you need to be well versed in the structure and operation of the engine, as well as have the necessary tools and skills. If you have the slightest doubt that you will be able to cope, it is better not to take risks and entrust the engine of your car to professionals.
Video (click to play).
After you have completed the overhaul procedure and put the engine in place, you need run in the engine cold... Simply put, you need to start the car and let it idle, so that all the elements are ideally used for subsequent work.
Think engine overhaul is a headache? You think correctly. But when you find out how much they take for work, your head will stop hurting and your hands will start to work. Because for that kind of money, three engines can be repaired. This means that we will save money and master the overhaul on our own.
As you drove along, the engine of your beloved iron horse suddenly knocked. Don't be in a hurry to immediately grab the "capital". We must first check everything.
First, let's immediately determine that this is not an engine bulkhead when it was disassembled, cleaned, gaskets changed and assembled. There are already more serious reasons. So, let's pay attention to the prerequisites:
How old is the car? How long has she already run? Foreign or domestic car? If the car is more than 10 years old, it is domestic, for example "Zhiguli" or "Moskvich", then its limit is 150 thousand kilometers. For a foreign car - up to 300. Perhaps, the resource of your car is exhausted, and for this reason the power has decreased.
Let's see what's wrong with the oil. Yeah, the pressure has dropped again, while the car is bursting oil shamelessly - another reason for repairs.
We check the compression, since this is the main parameter that influences the choice - whether a major overhaul is or is not needed. We take a compressometer from friends, take measurements.For example, in our case, out of four indicators in one, instead of eight, there is already five - which means that the time has come for a major overhaul.
Of course, with information. We take out a manual, in which it is reported in detail and with diagrams how to repair your particular brand of car. We find a catalog on the Internet that contains spare parts for this car in order to immediately determine the prices and, possibly, place an order in the online store.
keys - ratchet, torque;
mandrels for coupling pistons, caps;
desiccant for valves;
micrometer;
heads;
device for adjusting valves;
two-legged or three-legged puller;
stethoscope;
tweezers;
support stand;
hydraulic chain hoist;
a set of pullers.
We drive the car into the garage. We remove the battery. Disconnect the hood so that it does not interfere.
We carefully drain all liquids: antifreeze, oil. To do this, instead of bolts on the radiator and the cylinder block, we install faucets - they are sold in any auto shop - and drain them using hoses into the prepared container.
Considering the age of the car, we very carefully disconnect the wiring, connectors, tubes, hoses, etc., so that they do not crumble in our hands, nothing is damaged or cut off. And then some craftsmen still repair the wiring, the cooling system.
We remove without haste everything that can interfere with getting the engine: air filter, carburetor, gas pump - do not forget to screw the bolt, oil separator, distributor, cylinder block cover, camshaft, cylinder head studs, and then the head block, crankcase protection, generator with belt, fan, radiator. We unscrew the bolts that secure the engine. The engine can now be removed.
Before you get to the insides of the engine and start doing the overhaul, try to safely remove it from the car. Call an assistant - you can't do it alone.
Prepare four tires by stacking them on top of each other. Place two pieces of wood on top. Then lay the engine on them.
Now attach the talcum powder, i.e. the lift, to the ceiling beam, it can be attached to the tripod by positioning it above the hood.
Do you know how much the engine weighs? How do you like an aggregate of 140 kilograms? Serious thing? It is clear that you cannot lift it with your hands, and if it falls down, you cannot do without injury. To prevent this from happening, be extremely careful, check the attachment of the talcum powder, and only then start lifting.
Carefully, without too much fuss, pull the engine up, bring it to the stack of tires that have already been laid out in front of the car, lower it, turn it over so that the crankcase is on top, on wooden blocks.
When disassembling, remember or mark somewhere where you are shooting from and where the part was originally located, so that later there will not be superfluous ones, like some homemade ones.
Start gutting the flywheel: first remove the clutch, then get to the crankcase boot. Go to the oil filter. After unscrewing the fasteners, remove the bolts and remove the crankcase, being careful not to break the oil intake.
Now remove the front and rear covers of the block together with the oil seal. Take care of the piglet sprocket, remove it using a puller. Go to the chain stop and unscrew, remove the tensioner shoe, and then the chain, the crankshaft sprocket.
Go to the crankshaft. Remove the nuts from the connecting rod caps, then the caps, carefully pull out the pistons, remove the liners, carefully inspect them for reuse. If you can no longer use them, take a sample and buy new ones from a specialist store or from the car market. Just first decide whether you need a groove for the necks, and only then fit the liners under them. Take out the crankshaft with persistent half rings.
Remove piglet, oil pump and its drive gear.Turn over, placing it sideways, remove the pistons with connecting rods from the cylinders. Buy a new piston system according to the old model. You still need to contact a car repair shop.
Take new pistons, let the block be bored under them, and also grind the crankshaft and press the piston pins. Measure with a micrometer the crankshaft journal, look in the manual for what size the earbuds should be, buy them. If you choose the correct liners, you will be able to rotate the crankshaft by hand - this will be the fit test.
Begin assembly by removing carbon deposits. Remove all metal shavings, rinse the beds, lubricate them and the liners with engine oil, and reinstall using the manual. On the rear wall of the block, place thrust half rings so that the grooves are turned on the plane of the crankshaft.
Now you can replace the crankshaft with liners and covers, checking the marking guide, the places where the locks are located. Make sure they are all on the same side. Take a torque wrench, tighten the bolts, turn the crankshaft - if it turns easily, then everything is in order. Otherwise, replace the earbuds with thinner ones.
Ask in the workshop to assemble the piston, because you yourself will not be able to heat the connecting rod heads to more than 100 degrees, but you need to heat them over 200. Check the process.
Now carefully lubricate the piston pins through the holes, throw in the piston rings without haste, make sure that the slots, holes are preserved, tighten the mandrel with a wrench. Lay the block on its side, insert the piston with the connecting rod, not forgetting the markings.
Take a wooden block and, gently knocking, push the piston into the cylinder. Flip the block over to its original position, but do it so that the crankshaft is at the top. Tighten the bolts.
Lightly begin to pull the connecting rods to the necks. Then rotate the crankshaft to make sure everything is set correctly and the liners do not need to be changed. Now you can tighten the bolts.
Put a new oil seal on the cover, install it on the block, pre-coat the joints with sealant. Proceed with installing the clutch boot and flywheel. Remember that the flywheel groove must be turned to the fourth knee of the crankshaft - this is important.
Now install the sprocket, piglet, tensioner shoe, front oil seal, oil pump, flywheel clutch.
Finally, you can install the engine and bolt it. Tighten carefully to avoid stripping threads or bursting parts. Return the pump, generator, radiator, fuel pump to their original places, connect the wires, hoses, terminals, check the fastening strength.
As soon as an overhaul of the engine is completed, it is imperative to carry out a cold run-in before installing it on the car. This is done so that the new parts rub against each other, and is carried out in passive, bench mode or in hard towing, when, due to the movement of the wheels, the crankshaft starts to spin and a cold break-in occurs.
So, in the garage, connect the hoses for the air filter, cooling system, oil supply, outlet to the engine. Install the plugs. Connect the unit to an electric motor.
Fill in the coolant that was drained during disassembly, heating it to 85 degrees, then oil heated to 80 degrees. At low revs, from 600 to 1000, let the engine run for 2 minutes, at high revs, from 1200 to 1400, for 5 minutes.
Before the car has run two and a half thousand kilometers, do not accelerate sharply, pick up speed gradually, do not overload the engine.
After the first run, drain the oil, replacing it with a clean one, but of the same brand (preferably).
Now you are convinced that a do-it-yourself engine overhaul is possible and profitable, because it costs three times cheaper.In addition, it will allow you to operate the car for several more years as a result of extending the resource, prevent unexpected breakdowns on the road, and help avoid an accident.
The following video will tell you what spare parts are needed for the overhaul of the VAZ 2103 engine:
Almost all car owners, sooner or later, make major engine overhauls. In principle, there is no exact period of time after which it is necessary to overhaul the engine. Many people think that high mileage of the car is the agenda for the "capital". But this is not true. The need for this type of repair may arise even on a car with a fairly low mileage. It all depends on your driving style and how well and how often you take care of the "heart" of your "steel beauty". In order for a woman's heart to be always faithful and reliable for you, it requires fresh flowers and great attention. Likewise, the "heart" of your car should receive fresh oil and careful care on time. Only then will it serve you faithfully for a long time.
Overhaul is a forced necessity
The fact that the "engine" of your car needs "capital" can be notified by the details of the cylinders. You will notice this by the increased need of your car for oil (consumption will be more than one liter per thousand kilometers). The characteristic gray smoke from the tailpipe is a clear sign of engine breakdown. But when such symptoms appear, there is no need to jump to conclusions right away. For example, oil consumption that is too high may indicate that the valve stems have lost their former elasticity.
You should pay attention to the crank mechanism - a characteristic knock may appear, which indicates serious damage to the crankshaft liners, bearings and other sliding components. A knock can be detected with a stethoscope, and a pressure gauge will help determine the pressure in the cylinders. An increase in engine noise, loss of power and an increase in fuel consumption can serve as a serious sign that an engine overhaul is required.
If you find most of the above symptoms in your car, then, most likely, you cannot avoid overhaul. But in order to make sure for sure whether a "capital" is required or not, it is still better to contact a specialized service station. The service station will check the degree of wear of all engine parts. During such a check, special devices (measuring brackets, micrometers, dial indicators, internal gauges) are used at the stations, with the help of which it is possible to accurately determine the need for a "engine" for overhaul.