How to do it yourself repairs in an old house with your own hands

In detail: how to do it yourself repairs in an old house with your own hands from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Content

1 The sequence of repairs in the house with your own hands: Step-by-step instructions from scratch with a rough finish + Photo and Video
2 Repair of a private house with your own hands. Drawing up a design project, estimates. Replacement of communications. Facade and room restoration

The sequence of repairs in the house with your own hands: Step-by-step instructions from scratch with a rough finish + Photo and Video

Are there any plans for renovation in your house? Where to start, how to finish, how to carry out the work so that one does not interfere with the other and does not spoil it? First of all, it is necessary to draw up at least an approximate plan of all work, to derive an estimate of costs. It should cover all planned activities, including dismantling of old elements - batteries, lamps, window sills, switches.

In the event that it is planned to replace interior and exterior doors, windows, it is important not to forget about the subsequent cleaning and disposal of construction waste. This is a pretty big expense to consider.

Before starting construction activities, it is necessary to determine the amount of work to be done and their approximate cost, and correlate them with your own capabilities.

It is highly undesirable to make significant adjustments after the start of work. All important design decisions are made and approved in advance, because it is not always possible to change them later, but it is almost always costly.

Usually, after completing the preparatory phase, the homeowner finds himself in an empty room, in front of completely bare walls. It is still quite difficult for him to navigate the forthcoming volume of work and expenses. But he already has an idea what color solutions are preferable for him, where what will be located, in which part of the house household and other appliances will be installed.

Video (click to play).

Need to pay attention on the number and location of windows, the level of natural illumination, because the need for artificial lighting in the room depends on this. Why is it important? The fact is that any repair most often begins replacement or re-equipment of power gridsincluding future locations for lighting fixtures, outlets and switches. This also applies to old, already inhabited houses, and those built not so long ago.

Every average household today has many different technologies that need a powerful, optimized branch network. Additional sockets and numerous extension cords are very inconvenient to use.

If it is planned to install an air conditioning system, then it is carried out in the same period. At the same time, all the necessary heating system fasteners.

In parallel, a number of works related to drilling, chiselling, making recesses, grooves and booms... This also includes other work, in the process of which it is necessary to "disfigure" the ceiling, walls and floor, as a result of which a large amount of various construction waste is formed: dust, pieces of gypsum, brick and concrete.

When all this garbage removed, you can start preparing the subfloor.

There are different options:

preparation for underfloor heating;
installation of a sub-floor from edged boards;
leveling with a concrete screed.

The next stage of work refers to the windows. They are replaced if necessary.

If they completely satisfy the homeowner, then he simply checks the sealing of the cracks, the presence and condition of thermal insulation and window slopes.It is also checked whether the doors close and open well, whether there are distortions and other defects. After plastering and painting, it will be much more difficult to put them in order.

It is advisable to protect the inner window sills with a film from splashes of finishing compounds. This type of work is allowed to be carried out when installing doors, but the proposed option is more practical.

If the walls in the house need alignment and other necessary procedures, then the amount of compounds and mixtures required for this must be calculated in advance.

Materials tend to end unexpectedly at the wrong time - it is advisable to protect yourself from this.

The owners are constantly faced with various fundamental questions.

There can be no two answers to this question: before moving on to finishing the walls, you need to complete the preparatory work with the floor.

After cleaning, it must be prepared for the final, decorative coating.

The coating itself, regardless of its type and type, is done last.... This applies to self-leveling floors, parquet, laminate, linoleum and other types.

And at this stage, the prepared base is protected with foil, cardboard or several layers of newspapers. This will greatly facilitate subsequent cleaning and cleaning.

Even before moving on to plastering work, you should complete all the proposed activities with drywall. Niches, additional partitions, functional and decorative details are finished completely before moving on to the next stage of finishing work - Wet... It is advisable to perform all work of this kind within one working cycle, so as not to return to them again later.

Then you will be able to prevent errors during their installation, as well as get a minimum gap between the floor plane or threshold and door leaves.

Door installation is a high-tech process that does not use adhesives and compounds that can contaminate or damage the new floor. The tools used, provided that they are handled skillfully and carefully, are also not capable of damaging it.

This applies specifically to the door.

However, it is quite possible to mount the door frame a little earlier, even before the walls are aligned.... In this case, flaws, defects and cracks near the opening will be reliably masked.

If the existing walls do not need improvement, being already flat and smooth, the installation of the box can be carried out later. If the box is pre-installed, be sure to consider the thickness of the potential floor covering.

The same applies to painting the walls. Although the opinions of experts sometimes differ. Adherents of a different method are sure that wallpaper should be dealt with after completing work on the floor and fixing the ceiling plinth. They believe that wall decoration can be easily replaced at any time without touching the baseboards above and below.

In their opinion, it is enough to evenly cut the edges of the wallpaper along the skirting boards on both sides.

They switch to painting the ceiling after the end of fixing the ceiling plinth. With this order of work, it is quite convenient to fix all the irregularities and defects of their connections, and only after that paint the ceiling and baseboard in one go. The simultaneous dyeing allows them to look solid and elegant.

If speak about old house renovation sequences, it is worth dwelling on the installation of a stretch ceiling.

This habitual element is enjoying steady popularity. The specificity of the device of such ceilings allows their installation at the final stage of all events, after wallpapering or painting wall surfaces. Ceiling installation can be considered a clean-up operation that does not pose a threat of damage to the floor or walls.

The principle of “top-down” priority does not apply to this case. It applies mainly to the usual repair work. The emergence of new technologies brought some changes to their course.Even the teams involved in the installation of stretch ceilings suggest inviting them to actually complete the repair.

Let's try to compile a short list of the order of work in any given room of the house. So:

Electricity of the net;
Air conditioning and heating systems;
Arrangement of the sub-floor;
Installation (if necessary, with preliminary dismantling) of windows;
Working with walls - preparation for painting or pasting;
All works with the ceiling;
Finishing of walls - pasting or painting;
Final floor covering;
Door installation;
Arrangement of floor skirting boards and thresholds;
Stretch ceiling installation.

Of course, this order cannot be considered an axiom. Various reasons, including the original technology or the characteristics of the materials used, may violate it more or less.

All specialists choose their own algorithm of actions, which is convenient for them in each specific case, but the approximate sequence of events may be just that.

Often, it is more profitable to repair an old wooden house on your own than to demolish it and build a new one. If you have such a house and would like to bring it into its proper form, we will tell you how to do it. The main thing is to pay attention to the general condition of the building, that is, to assess the prospects of work. If you are sure that the house can still serve, feel free to start making repairs with your own hands.

First of all, you should evaluate the degree of wear and tear of existing components of the house. Take a close look at the foundation, walls, roofing and communications. Do-it-yourself repair of an old wooden house begins with the preparation of the material, and its volume directly depends on the state of the building.

Completely free the house from all unnecessary things, debris and components that are actually not related to the structure. Look closely at the wooden parts for signs of decay - these should be removed immediately. Most often, in old wooden houses, the floor comes into complete disrepair - it must be dismantled.

Pay attention to the foundation. As a rule, solid concrete fill lasts a very long time, but in some places it can break off. This requires a small cosmetic repair - using the prepared solution, simply cover up the visible imperfections, leveling the entire foundation. If the foundation of the house has fallen into disrepair (there are many large cracks around the perimeter, corrosion of the reinforcement, a significant skew of the horizontal level of the foundation), repairs will not be enough. A complete renovation is required here.

Communications should be taken care of in advance, as you may want to sheathe the walls with plasterboard or other covering. So, completely dismantle the existing electrical wiring and plumbing pipes. When laying a new electrical network, be sure to wrap the wires in special tubes with a cross section of 15-20 mm. For plumbing, it is better to use plastic pipes.

Do-it-yourself repair of a wooden house, a photo of the process of which we are attaching, we will start from the walls. The logs of the crown are the most vulnerable place. Here, cracks and other damage are most often formed. The floor beams and the floor itself may also suffer (as already noted, it is better to dismantle it immediately).

Minor damage to the wood can be repaired without dismantling the walls. For this, problem areas should be cleaned, treated with an antiseptic, and then sealed with a suitable sealant. If we talk about the outside of the facade, then for cosmetic purposes, you can sheathe it with special panels of your choice. Siding is most often used, and it is mounted as follows:

Brackets are attached to the facade, on which vertical beams are installed;
The beams are installed in increments of about 30-40 cm.
A layer of mineral wool and an insulating film are attached between the beams with nails;
The lathing is sheathed with siding from the bottom up.

The inner side of the walls can be sheathed with plasterboard.Plasterboard installation is carried out in a similar way.

Pay attention to the beams above window and doorways - they very often suffer from moisture. Places that have rotted must be replaced - this can be done simply by cutting out a piece of the beam and inserting a new part.

It is recommended not to neglect the treatment of the wall, even if you plan to sheathe it. Dirt and microorganisms can accumulate in places of damage, which will lead to the destruction of the wood.

If the house is quite old, you will most likely need to completely remove the roof covering. Inspect the frame, especially the condition of the rafters. The roof is easy to repair - any part can be replaced. To do this, use additional strength clamps - for a while, connect the existing beams (which you will not dismantle), nailing several boards between them. After that, you can remove low-quality rafters without fear of destroying the frame.

Take a close look at the main detail of the roof - the Mauerlat. If signs of decay are found, be sure to cut out the damaged parts and insert new ones with secure fixation with plate pads or tie bolts. Ideally, the Mauerlat can be completely replaced by carefully dismantling its parts around the perimeter and installing new ones.

After the roof frame has been repaired, re-lay the covering. If desired, the roof can be additionally insulated using, for example, mineral wool.

Doors and windows in older homes will likely need to be completely replaced. But the main problem lies not in this, but in rather frequent cases of imbalance. To get rid of the skew, dismantle the door frame and level the walls using a level.

Reassemble and reinstall the door frame. All existing cracks must be blown out tightly with polyurethane foam. As for the doors, choose their model as you wish, but it is recommended to replace the windows with metal-plastic ones, since they are more durable and reliable than wooden ones, not to mention the thermal insulation properties.

Interior doors also need to be replaced in the same way along with the frames. If you have all the doors of the same format and size, then you can immediately prepare the required number of boards for the frame panels. But do not rush to install them inside the house, as you will still be doing floor repairs and finishing. You can install interior doors at the last stage of renovation work.

For a high-quality floor, it is recommended to make a concrete screed. If you don't have one, get to work. First of all, dismantle the logs on the floor (you do not need to cut them under the walls) and clean the area from debris and dust. The screed is laid in the following order: backfill (sand, fine gravel), insulating film, concrete layer. Be sure to level the screed. The concrete should dry for about one month at a temperature of about 20 degrees.

Then you can start laying the floor. This can be, for example, a laminate. For laying, a special substrate is first used, after which laminate sheets are laid on it, interconnected with "locks". An expansion gap of about 1 cm should be left near the walls, which is hidden by the baseboard.

If you don't want to screed, you can use planks to make the floor. In this case, the boards are simply nailed to the logs and sanded from above with a special machine. It is recommended to provide moisture insulation for such a floor by pouring a layer of expanded clay under the logs (if the logs are located on the ground).

The last stage of repairing wooden houses with your own hands, the video of which you can watch at the end of the article, is finishing work. If you've used drywall for walls, be sure to putty and flatten for wallpapering or painting.

A wooden floor made of boards should be treated with a special varnish and allowed to dry well.A similar procedure should be carried out with other wood materials that are in open areas.

This is how it looked before the renovation. Rotten wooden frames, closed from the outside with a double film, from cold and wind. To the left is an old veranda with a drooping porch canopy.

For those who have to make repairs in their home, it appears.

These were the windows and sills.

They began to put the house in order from the foundation.

One by one, we open the corners of the house, remove the rotten logs of the crowns using a chainsaw, put the formwork, put large stones and rubble, lay the reinforcement so that its ends remain open (for later fastening it to the pouring foundation), we wrap the log of the crown with roofing paper and fill it with concrete. ready-made curbstone.

And so all four corners of the house and its middle, along the perimeter. In total - 8 pedestals. The process is time consuming, difficult, but the result is worth it. When the curbstones were finished, we made a mound around the entire perimeter. The continuation of the outdoor work was postponed until the following summer. And we took up the interior renovation of the house.

This is a large room and let's start with it. Before the renovation, it looked like this:

This is her right corner. and this, in the photo below, is the left corner. As I write a thread, I'll stick to these two angles.

First, all layers of the old wallpaper were completely torn off. The windows were still old, but we were already waiting for the masters to install plastic windows.

The old stove was dismantled. and the stove-maker folded a new one.

Installation of plastic windows. the further, the more terrible, but the result is important.

AND THE RESULT DIDN'T MAKE YOURSELF WAIT LONG. I decided to close one window completely and make one big one - there will be a dining room.

After installing the windows, the men began to dismantle the old floor, level the logs and put brick cabinets under them.

Then the floors were laid with old boards (they will serve for a very long time, since they are thick and dry), and in places where there were rotten ones, they were replaced with new boards.

And then my "female work" has already begun, I insulated the walls with penofol,

Installed a metal frame for walls and ceilings. my mistake was that first you need to do the ceiling, and then the walls, and not vice versa. I found the technique for performing these works on the Internet, I will not dwell on it in detail. If you have any questions, I will be happy to answer ,what do I know.

It is much more difficult to fix the frame on the ceiling, the neck hurts.

When the metal frame is completely ready, you can sew gypsum boards to it, preferably in a checkerboard pattern, starting from the ceiling! Do not forget to scatter the electrical wiring and hide it in the gafrochannel, behind the profile, and install the distributor boxes in a place convenient for you.

In this photo you can see wooden blocks, I screwed them on for the subsequent fixing of bookshelves. Exactly the same, only thinner, I fix them under the ceiling above the windows (for attaching the cornices).

When all the walls and ceiling are sheathed with gypsum board, we putty with a spatula and align all the joints between the sheets and the places where the screws are screwed in with this composition.

At the corners and seams, we lay a reinforced mesh for the strength of the joints, and after everything is dry, we sand it, apply a primer to the walls and ceiling.

And now the most interesting moment is wallpapering. I took vinyl white for the ceiling and with delicate roses on the walls.

When the wallpaper is dry, I by mutual agreement

invited a team of craftsmen to finish their work in this room on the windows (slopes and window sills).

After that, I glued the ceiling plinth, hung the shelves on the wall, put my flowers on the windowsills, which the guys from the company had already installed for us.

The carpenter helped put the interior door, only then I found out that it was standing upside down. (what a difference!) if only it functions normally.

I pasted the doorways with a white corner on a liquid nail. On the right side, the stove is new, heats all the rooms at once.

The firebox itself is in the bathroom.

I put a substrate on the rough floor, then fiberboard and linoleum. Then she screwed the floor plinths with self-tapping screws and voila-beauty.

This is the big room.

Some of you wanted to see more details about concrete pedestals, so I added details. So, a layer of windows was inserted, the house was sheathed with flat slate from the outside, and a mound was made around the house, until next summer.

Now let's continue about outdoor work, after the cold winter and spring. next summer.

When all the pedestals are ready, gradually, opening each side of the house from the blockage, remove the rotten logs of the lower crown, dry them with waterproofing,

we install the formwork, lay the reinforcement, connecting it to the ends of the reinforcement of the corner pedestals and fill it with concrete.

We do this together with a man, under my strict guidance.

We make brickwork on the finished foundation.

And as expected, the blind area has been made. not quite ordinary.

This is all about outdoor work, home renovation. If you have any questions, ask, with pleasure that I know, I will answer. And for everyone who is interested, the continuation of the internal renovation awaits - the dining room!

Thank you for your time. Your LYUDMILA.

Repair of a private house with your own hands. Drawing up a design project, estimates. Replacement of communications. Facade and room restoration

Any private house, which has been built 20 years or more, needs major repairs. Do-it-yourself repair of a private house, in addition to impressive financial investments in building materials, involves large labor costs. We asked the masters how to save money and get quality repairs.

You need to start by drawing up a detailed plan for the sequence of actions, after completing which the repair of a private house can be considered completed. The more detailed its points are, the easier it will be to imagine the scope of work, the time required for repairs and the amount of financial costs.

The plan will look different for each case.

drawing up a design project;
calculation of the necessary materials and tools, budgeting;
repair of communications (replacement of sewerage, water supply, heating and ventilation systems, electrical wiring, gas supply systems);
replacement of windows and doors;
replacement or repair of the roof of a private house, insulation and sound insulation of the attic;
facade repair (dismantling of old finishes and installation of new ones);
repair of bathrooms (replacement of plumbing and decoration);
DIY kitchen repair or decoration;
renovation of rooms.

To implement the plan, you will need a minimum set of tools:

construction manual hammer drill (with functions of impact and drilling);
Bulgarian;
jigsaw;
construction stapler;
Screwdriver Set;
hammer;
chisel;
pliers;
nippers;
scissors for metal;
hacksaws for wood and metal;
building level;
roulette;
construction rope;
plumb lines;
carpentry square;
chalk and pencil for marking;
Master OK;
trowel large, small and ribbed (for tiling);
extension;
stairs;
perhaps a shovel and a trough (for mixing plaster mortar);
scaffolding.

The price of the listed tool is quite high, so we recommend renting it.

Before making repairs with your own hands, you need to understand what result should be obtained after its completion. To do this, you can use a computer 3D visualizer program, with which you can easily select an unpleasant view both inside and outside the house, having previously entered the plan and dimensions of the structure into the program.

In it, you can select the texture and color of finishing materials, give the necessary shape to the facade, roof and stairs, provide for the availability of accessories and even reproduce the courtyard.

Based on the colors and textures you like best for each element of the exterior and interior, you should select the appropriate materials.

The total number of materials required will be equal to the sum of materials required for the repair of each individual component: rooms, bathrooms, roof and attic, facade, communication systems.

It is necessary to clearly measure the area of surfaces (separately floor, walls and ceiling) of each room, and then calculate the required amount of finishing and auxiliary materials. It is also necessary to measure the length of pipes and wires that will be used for laying communications.

Advice! To the amount of materials obtained in the calculations, 5-10% should be added, laid down for repair waste.

Repair of home communications systems is perhaps one of the few components of a global home renovation that requires the intervention of professionals. The period of further operation of each of the systems will depend on how well the sewerage system, water supply system, electrical wiring, heating and ventilation will be repaired.

Moreover, the masters will help to equip, for example, a heating system with minimal expected heat losses, which in the end will allow not only recouping the costs of calling them, but also subsequently saving on the use of energy resources. Correctly installed wiring can prevent short circuits and avoid damage to household appliances.

If self-installation of doors seems to be quite a feasible task, then the installation of PVC windows instead of old ones should, if possible, be entrusted to specialists.

Both the measurement and the very process of installing metal-plastic windows requires experience and skill, because improper performance of any of the listed works can lead to the fact that the window simply does not fit or its installation will require expansion (narrowing) of the window niche.

Correct installation of a window will not only be able to extend its service life, but will also meet all modern sound and thermal insulation requirements.

Self-installation of doors:

the old door is dismantled along with the frame;
a new door frame is installed in the doorway (wooden with the help of long dowels and self-tapping screws, metal - wide metal pins driven into the walls and screwed or welded to the frame);
then the cracks between the frame and the opening are blown out with polyurethane foam and, after drying, are plastered;
the door is put on the hinges pre-lubricated with machine grease.

Overhaul of a private house is unthinkable without modernization or repair of the roof and attic.

complete dismantling of the coating with its subsequent replacement with a new coating;

replacement of leaky coating elements;

dismantling the roof and rafter system in order to build a more durable system for the installation of heavy roofing.

Heat and sound insulation of the attic is done as follows:

foam sheets or a layer of mineral wool are attached to the openings between the rafters under the installed cover;

a cladding (usually wooden or plastic clapboard) is installed under the installed insulation;

two layers of foam plastic 50 mm thick each are laid on the floor of the attic so that the joints of the upper layer do not overlap the joints of the lower one;

expanded clay backfill with a thickness of 200 mm is laid.

Advice! All joints of insulating plates, as well as all kinds of cracks in the roof, should be sealed with polyurethane foam in order to avoid significant heat loss.Facade cladding with sidingAfter the restoration of the attic and roof, you can proceed with the renovation of the facade.... Here, the simplest and most practical option is to decorate the house with siding. This material has durability, and the color and structural range of siding is ready to boast of a wide variety (including it can be made in the form of wood, natural stone, brick cover). This variety will help to bring to life the most original design idea.In addition, additional insulation, for example, mineral wool, can be placed under the siding, thereby constructing a so-called ventilated facade.

special metal brackets are mounted on the entire sheathed surface;

a wooden beam with a section of 50x80 mm or a metal aluminum profile is attached to the brackets, thereby creating a crate;

sheets of mineral wool are attached to the walls with long nails with a wide head, processing the joints with polyurethane foam;

from above, the insulation is covered with a special retaining membrane fabric that prevents the insulation from blowing out of the cells and allows it to "breathe";

from bottom to top, siding panels are attached to the crate.

Advice! For the most effective system, the gap between the inside of the siding and the insulation layer should be about 4 cm.After finishing the outdoor work, you can start finishing inside the room..Here, the first things to do is to tackle more complex rooms, such as the bath, toilet and kitchen. Due to the high humidity in these rooms, the floor is often covered with ceramic tiles, having previously (if desired and possible) installed a “warm floor” system under the covering and covered it with a thin screed. As for the walls, there are slight differences:

wall decoration in the bathroom is almost entirely done from tiles or from more budgetary plastic panels;

the toilet is sheathed in almost the same way, or, with rare exceptions, the upper part (about 2/5 of the wall height) can be covered with wallpaper;

in the kitchen, tiles are usually laid on the walls, optionally near the work surfaces, the rest of the walls are pasted over with wallpaper.

With sufficient funds in each of these rooms, you can order a suspended ceiling, which is a very practical and visually aesthetic option, however, you can cover with PVC panels or simply paint the ceiling area.The next step is to install plumbing, washbasin, furniture and other accessories.After removing the old wallpaper in the rooms, the unevenness of the walls should be covered with putty and allowed to dry, after which new wallpaper can be glued. On the ceiling, you can order a suspension system or paste over it with wallpaper.Depending on preferences, parquet, laminate, linoleum, carpet are laid on the floor in the rooms. If the parquet has already been installed, it is sanded and varnished again. For the purpose of insulation in the rooms, you can also install a "warm floor".After finishing the rooms, the renovation of a private house can be considered complete.We hope our article was useful to you. In order to more accurately understand the technological and practical issue, our website contains detailed photo and video instructions, in which you will find useful information on this issue.Wooden houses are comfortable and ecological housing. However, over time and under the influence of the climate, such houses can deteriorate, decay, and the tree can rot. In this case, timely overhaul of a wooden house from the outside and from the inside is necessary. Despite the considerable financial and labor costs, all costs will pay off by the fact that the house will stand for more than a decade.Initially, it is necessary to plan all the work, assess the degree of damage and determine the scale of work, the required costs and timing.If a complete overhaul of a wooden house is planned, then the sequence of work will look like this:

base repair;

replacement of all communications (sewerage, electrical wiring, water supply, etc.);

dismantling and installation of new windows and doors;

roof renewal;

new decoration of the facade of the building;

analysis of old and installation of new plumbing;

repairs inside the house: bathroom, kitchen, living rooms.

To renovate an old wooden house, you will need the following materials and fixtures: Image - How to make DIY repairs in an old house with your own hands

Column foundation repair.

waterproofing and heat-insulating material;
concrete;
scaffolding;
puncher;
wheelbarrow;
stairs;
Bulgarian;
level;
hammer;
jigsaw;
screwdrivers, fasteners;
tape measure, plumb;
chisel;
pliers;
hacksaws for wood and metal;
cord;
square;
spatulas.

In the process of work, it is often necessary to change individual logs in the structure.To do this, rotten logs are carefully removed from the general structure, and new ones are inserted in their place, while it is necessary to immediately protect them with roofing material.

Cracks can also create a lot of problems, they can grow, moisture accumulating in them and microorganisms lead to rotting of the tree.

It is best to seal them up: clean, cover with an antiseptic, then apply a sealing compound. So, the cracks will be almost invisible and will not pose a danger to the house.

Quite often, the tree rots under the windows. When repairing, old logs are taken out or cut out. The ridges are fixed to the ends, to which fresh logs of the same thickness are attached. Tow is laid under the tree and treated with protective mixtures.

Replacing the rotten section of the crown of a log wooden house.

It is better to start overhaul of an old wooden house from the foundation. The amount of work depends on the nature of the destruction. If the reinforcement has rotted and the concrete has collapsed, you will have to update the foundation in whole or only part of it. To do this, formwork is installed around the perimeter of the building and concrete is poured. Reinforced concrete and brick structures are reinforced with reinforced concrete, interlocked with anchors. With a point structure, the space between its parts should be filled, so you will achieve its solidity, you can install reinforced concrete clips. This will give the base of the house additional rigidity.

Overhaul involves the replacement of communications, and here you cannot do without the help of professionals. The durability and reliability of their operation will depend on the quality of the installation of the systems. So, by correctly installing the wiring, you will avoid short circuits that can damage your home appliances.

When replacing windows and doors, you can handle some work yourself, and also entrust something to the masters. For example, if you can cope with the installation of doors yourself, then, of course, it is better to entrust the replacement of old windows with plastic ones to the masters.

When installing doors with your own hands, the work will consist of such stages as:

dismantling the old door along with the frame;
installation of a new door frame (if it is made of wood, use screws and dowels, from metal - wide metal pins, they are driven into the walls, screwed to the frame);
processing of foam gaps between the frame and the opening;
plaster;
installation of doors on hinges, which should be lubricated in advance.

The quality of sound and heat insulation will depend on the correct installation.

Repair of the roof system.

First, consider what kind of roof material you want to use. The choice depends on whether the roof is pitched or flat. Flat roofs are usually installed during the construction of outbuildings. Residential buildings are most often equipped with pitched roofs, which can be with or without an attic. The attic can be used as a utility room when replacing a roof. The attic room contributes to the ventilation of the whole house, there is a pipe there, if the house is on stove heating. If the attic is used for household needs (drying, storage of things, etc.), it is advisable to make the roof gable or broken. In any case, the performance properties of the roof must be taken into account. On a one-story house, a high roof will make it look not only more solid, but will also help ensure that precipitation will not linger on the slope for a long time. This will help keep the roof from rotting and leaking.

The procedure for replacing the roof:

dismantling of the old coating, rafters;
replacement of rotten parts;
laying a new coating.

Sound and thermal insulation of the attic space is performed in the following sequence:

put foam or mineral wool in the space between the rafters and the laid covering;
perform cladding (for example, clapboard);
lay on the attic floor a double layer of expanded polystyrene, 50 mm thick, so that the joints of the upper and lower layers do not overlap one another;
in the end, lay the expanded clay backfill, 200 mm thick.

There are 2 types of facades: wet and ventilated. Determine the condition of the exterior walls. When performing work on a wet facade, the old facade should be cleaned of paint and dirt. Sometimes it is necessary to carry out additional manipulations. Please note that unfavorable weather conditions (cold, damp) can affect the quality of work. Therefore, determine for yourself how long it takes you to complete everything.

The next step is the installation of corrugated board. To do this, you will need to restore the anti-salt protection, treat the walls with a bioprotective agent. It is advisable to dry the surface of the walls. Otherwise, the quality of the facade may not be the best.

If the house is not high, you can use galvanized profiles. For buildings with a height of more than 7 m, more reliable steel and aluminum profiles are needed. Purchase special fasteners with metal dowels. If you plan to clad with artificial stone, you need to calculate the height of the building and the load on the load-bearing walls of the entire house.

Siding is very popular when decorating a house. Siding installation is carried out as follows:

Metal brackets are placed over the entire area. Attach a wooden beam with a section of 50x80 mm or an aluminum profile to them. You will have a crate.
Attach the rock wool to the wall surface using long nails with a wide head. Fill the joints with polyurethane foam.
Place a retaining membrane fabric on top of the insulation, it will prevent the insulation material from blowing out of the cells and does not impede the penetration of air.
Attach the siding strips to the batten from bottom to top.

It is better to start repairs from non-residential rooms: bathroom, kitchen and bathroom. Considering the high humidity in the premises, the best option would be to lay tiles on the floor, under which pre-install the "warm floor" system and cover it with a thin layer of screed. Wall decoration provides more variety in work. In the bathroom, walls can be tiled with ceramic tiles or plastic panels. Cover the toilet in a similar way, sometimes the upper part of the walls is covered with wallpaper. In the kitchen, tiles, as a rule, are laid in certain areas, near work areas, other places can be pasted over with wallpaper.

If desired, in these rooms you can install a suspended ceiling, make a covering of PVC panels, or simply paint the ceiling. After finishing work, you can install plumbing and furniture.

Choose the scale and type of repair in living rooms yourself.

First, remove any old wallpaper from the walls, treat and prepare them carefully before you start pasting with new wallpaper.

There is a large selection of materials for the floor: parquet board, linoleum, etc. If parquet was laid on the floor, sand it and apply a varnish. To insulate living rooms, you can also make a "warm floor".

Video (click to play).

Having completed all the above measures, the repair can be considered completed. Overhaul of an old wooden house is quite possible to do without the involvement of special powerful equipment. The complexity and duration of the entire repair depends on the state of the structure and the scale of the planned work.

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