How to make repairs in a bathroom combined with a toilet with your own hands

In detail: how to make repairs with your own hands in a bathroom combined with a toilet from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

When you move into a new apartment, there is a very natural desire to make it the home of your dreams and change everything there. Actually, this was the case with me too - I moved to a one-room apartment, which probably saw the renovation in the Brezhnev era. So, at the entrance we have an apartment with a separate bathroom and toilet, but very small.

These are the tiny spaces that are called “not to unfold”. Therefore, we decided to combine a bath with a toilet. We have two advantages at once:

the bathroom becomes more spacious
instead of two doors in the corridor there will be one, which means additional space in the corridor, which is also small.

This is what we have in the bathroom: small tiles on the floor, tiles, metal-plastic pipes, a partition between the bathroom and the toilet - brickwork. We cleaned the walls as much as possible of tiles and a layer of paint. The sink was removed, it must be replaced, but the bath was left, it is cast iron and in good condition.

The ceilings in the apartment are multi-level, a niche is hidden under the plywood, although it was quite possible to make a cabinet. However, now this is irrelevant, we will change the location of the door.

Such a mosaic tile adorned the walls of the toilet, this one cannot be found now.

Branch of risers from the toilet to the bath. The pipes, as we can see, in this old house have been replaced with new ones.

The red brick partition is decorated with a decent layer of plaster - 3-4 cm, we knock down all this "wealth". We will dismantle the wall. This brick is still useful to us.

We diligently knock down this entire thick layer of plaster, remove the fiberboard panel with which the pipes in the toilet were sewn up. We closed the toilet itself so as not to clog it up. As you can see, there is enough dirt!

We work in the old fashioned way, with a wide chisel and a hammer. All this work could have been done with a puncher, but we did not have one. All materials are already old, so plaster and tiles are easily knocked off.

Video (click to play).

This wall was hidden behind a layer of plaster and tiles.

The most difficult thing was to remove all this "beauty", as we can see, the workers did not regret the mixture.

The walls are uneven - at the ceiling, the thickness of the plaster layer reached as much as 6 cm.

We shoot down everything, we remove the lamp.

This is how the wall opposite to the partition looks like, it is also brick. We knock out the ventilation grill, put a new one in its place.

Now, finally, the most interesting thing - we dismantle the partition between the bathroom and the toilet, the bricks, as I said, we keep, they are in good condition, so why spend money on extra materials. We store whole bricks in the bathroom.

This is what we get in the end, when all the garbage has been removed, the wall and the door frame of the toilet have been knocked out, there will be a wall here.

There will be minor difficulties with the new floor, because there is a decent difference between the bathroom floor and the toilet floor, see how the stool is crooked.

Now this difference must be leveled as much as possible, with a hammer and a chisel we knock down everything unnecessary, remove two layers of tiles in the toilet.

See how much space will be in the bathroom combined with the toilet, there will be space for both the sink and the washing machine.

There is a lot of work with the floor in the toilet: check out which layer you have to remove, almost ten centimeters, to the very foundation.

We are preparing a place for the future wall, there used to be a door here, but there will be a wall, in the toilet in this place it will be possible to place a cabinet or shelves for accessories.An excellent solution for such a small apartment.

We arm ourselves with a trowel and a cement-sand mixture and erect a new wall. Do not forget to use a level so that the wall is even.

View of the new wall from inside the toilet. Simultaneously with laying out the wall itself, we close up the cracks. An old bathroom door frame serves as a wall border. Subsequently, we will break the old box and put a new door.

This is how the work goes: broken bricks are also used, they can be inserted into large cracks, and then covered with a mixture.

Outside view: this is how much space to add in the corridor due to the fact that there will be no door. In a small area, every centimeter of roads.

The lamp was attached to the wall, but for now it just hangs from the ceiling. In the distance, you can see the niche between the slab and the ceiling. Of course, it would be possible to make a locker, but we abandoned this idea, it will be too high and very unlikely to be used often.

We close it up with a brick, cover up the cracks. The old brick was not enough, so I had to buy a new one.

now it's time to disassemble the shaft with the riser. Everything had to be done very carefully so as not to turn off the toilet and not disrupt communications. After all, it's not easy to live without a toilet.

They dismantled everything down to the pipes. There's a hole in the floor. To prevent the old cast-iron pipe from falling, we reinforce the floor with fittings, put boxes on the meters so that they do not suffer during repair work.

We close the hole at the site of the mine with a cement-sand mixture.

Level the floor between the bathroom and toilet.

We dismantle the toilet. We sew up a pipe riser. To do this, we needed metal profiles and the most common foam plates - it is cheap and absorbs excess water noise. We leave the revision window for access to the counters. We seal all the cracks with polyurethane foam. The pipes for the heated towel rail are immediately brought out.

We insert a new corrugation for the toilet. Before that, it was cast-iron, and now it is movable plastic, which means that there will be no problems with installing a new toilet.

We sew up the riser with plasterboard sheets. We make serifs on the walls so that the finishing materials hold better.

Here is such an ideal riser we end up with. It seems that the entire wall is sewn up, but this is not so - here you can see a hidden hatch so that we can have access to the plumbing system. For this we came in handy awnings for furniture and a push mechanism for the door.

Now you can go back to the floor, now it can be finally leveled to get rid of that unfortunate drop. Our helpers in this are a cement-sand mixture and a spatula. We leave to dry.

Because our walls are very uneven. They will have to be properly leveled and an impressive layer of plaster is indispensable. We install metal beacons for plastering, we will lose a couple of centimeters of space, but we have to sacrifice so that the walls are perfectly even.

We prime the surface, this is necessary in order to strengthen the wall itself (do not forget that the brick is very old) and this will improve the adhesion to the finishing material.

Plastering process. As we can observe, the layer is impressive, 3-4 centimeters.

Due to the fact that we have installed beacons, we can see which layer needs to be applied.

This is how it looks in the end. Let it dry.

We cover the entire surface of the walls with plaster, then we prime.

We pass to the floor. Our floor will be tiled with square tiles diagonally. This tiling method is not easy, but worth it. This arrangement visually increases the space, and because we have a small bathroom, we will try to add volume at least visually.

Before starting to lay the tiles, we prepared the surface - leveled it, repaired all the holes and potholes on the walls and floor, primed it. The primer improves the adhesion of the tiles to the floor. After applying the primer, let it dry.

Here is such a handsome floor we got in the end.Light-colored tiles again add space, and thanks to the pattern, dirt and drops are not visible on it.

It's time to remove the old door frame and install a new door. We dismantle the thresholds.

We collect a new door frame and install it in the opening. To prevent the door beams from bending, we put wooden wedges between the wall and the box.

The bases of the box themselves were fixed with metal corners. The outside wall of the bathroom is also plastered.

The door is the simplest, made of chipboard. Firstly, such a door is inexpensive and is quite suitable for our interior. We hang it on the hinges. Then we carefully foame all the seams and cracks between the box and the wall.

New toilet - new toilet. Installed in place of the old one. Now we move on to preparing the walls for laying out the tiles. Our tools are a spray gun, which is very convenient for priming walls, simple and comb spatulas, crosses. I fixed the level on the wall, it will serve us as a starting profile.

We knead the tile glue. He will check whether he is ready very easily - we take a trowel or a spatula and scoop it up: if it does not drain immediately and does not fall off in a piece. So the consistency is ideal, if it's too liquid, add the glue mixture, if it's thick - water.

On the wall, we have already pre-made notches for better adhesion of the walls and tiles and covered with concrete contact, for the same purpose. We draw marks for the tiles, we check everything with a level.

We begin to lay out the support row, do not forget to use the suture crosses, they guarantee that there will be no distortions.

We do the same manipulations with the other wall - we check whether the walls are vertical with a plumb line, fix the starting level.

This wall is the most difficult - here we have communications. Here you have to break your head how best to arrange the tiles, which did not have to cut a lot. We lay out a decorative border, we have it as a guide - where there is no profile (above the taps), a board was attached under the tiles so that the tiles would not slide off.

With a diamond drill we drill a hole for the wiring, bring out the wires - here we will have a lamp.

Another difficult area is the space above the door, there is no support row here, so in order for the tile not to move, we will use good old scotch tape.

As you can see, we do not lay out the tiles up to the ceiling itself, there will then be a suspended ceiling, so we leave 5 cm.

We rub the tile joints.

Our tiles are in two shades of beige. Lighter tiles on the top and darker ones on the bottom help to visually increase the space.

It's time to install a new heated towel rail. Mark the holes for the fasteners and drill them.

Installing a heated towel rail is not an easy task; to mount it, you have to install a hook in the ceiling and hang it.

The holes on the wall are made, we report the tiles and in the same places we make holes already in the tiles itself.

Now it remains to lay out non-whole tiles in the corner.

We complete the styling process. In order not to confuse the cut tiles, we number them, which greatly facilitates the work.

Another way to save space in a tiny bathroom is to flush the pipes into the wall. First, cuts were made with a grinder, and then with a chisel, a chisel and a hammer, the grooves were hollowed out, where the pipes were placed. A new mixer was installed.

Now you need to make holes in the tile itself. To do this, we will use a special crown for drilling round holes. We install it on a drill and at low speeds in a couple of minutes we get a neat hole.

We glue the tiles, rub. No more pipes will disfigure our bathroom.

This is how our bath looks at this stage. We install the ventilation grill.

Alas, the pictures end there, but the renovation does not. It remains for us to arrange the ceiling. This will be an aluminum slat suspended ceiling.As we already said, our main task is to expand the space as much as possible, so we chose a glossy rail.
Spot lighting helped us make the bathroom very light and therefore spacious. Then we hung up a new sink, the space under the bathtub was covered with a special color-matched plastic screen.

As a result, we made a great transformation of the bathroom and got additional space, both in the bathroom itself and in the hallway. In the vacant space, you can put a washing machine and hang shelves. The renovation turned out to be budgetary, we used to the maximum what was still quite suitable (brick, bath) and chose the most inexpensive materials.

Step-by-step instructions for repairing a bathroom and toilet.

According to most finishers, repairs in an apartment should be started from the bathroom. Let me explain why: this is the dirtiest and dustiest part of the renovation, requiring not only the dismantling of old tiles, plumbing fixtures, doors, and sometimes the entire bathroom walls.

So the first thing we do is we take out the old plumbing: a bath, a sink, a toilet bowl ... Everything that costs, weighs, lies.

• Next stage: with the help of a grinder we cut off all the old pipes to the crane located on the riser.

• Using a punch, knock down the old tiles.

It is important if the plaster under the tiles moves away from the wall, bunches ... it must also be beaten off.

• We dismantle the old door together with the box.

• Change risers... Now we turn our attention to the plumbing and sewer risers. This is a very important part of the renovation and must be changed. After renovation it will be very problematic. If you are not a specialist in plumbing work, then to replace the risers, it is better to invite qualified craftsmen, but you can do the internal wiring of the water supply yourself.

• Checking the hood... Let's move on to the hood. If we do not want the bathroom to be stuffy, we need to check the operation of the hood. To do this, we bring a burning candle to the hood and evaluate its work by the tongue of the flame: the better the hood works, the more intensely the flame is sucked into the chimney pipe. If the hood does not work correctly, we either clean it or install a fan in it.

• We ground the walls... At the next stage, I propose to clean up properly: take a broom and sweep out all the debris and dust from the bathroom. After all the dust has settled, we take a deep penetration primer and prime the walls.

• Installing beacons... After the primer has completely dried, we install beacons for further plastering of the bathroom. Lighthouses must be installed strictly according to the level, observing the plane of the wall and maintaining angles of 90 degrees.

• Plastering walls... Have you installed the lighthouses? Let's start plastering. To do this, we need a rule, a spatula, a drill and a drill mixer attachment. Bathrooms are plastered, as a rule, with dry gypsum mixtures, since there is no shortage of them on the market. I usually use Rotband plaster. We take a bucket of 12 liters and prepare a solution in it as written in the instructions. Using a spatula, we throw a solution between the beacons of one wall 50 centimeters from the floor. Then we take the rule, press it against the lighthouses and pull it up - we get a flat surface. We remove superfluous from the rule. And so on all the walls - from floor to ceiling. There are not large pits left - it does not matter - then we level them with a spatula. If everything is smooth and beautiful, then you have coped with the task.

• Leveling the floors... The next stage is the floors. We level them with the help of "self-leveling floors". We dilute the mixture as stated in the instructions, it can even be slightly thinner, and spread it all over the floor using a needle roller. After drying, the walls and floors, just in case, we check by level, we eliminate unevenness.

• We make a detailed plan of the bathroom... At the next stage, we must decide on the design of the bathroom, where? as? and at what height? there will be a bath, a sink, a mirror, a washing machine (if any), a towel dryer, a toilet bowl, a box covering the risers. To do this, we take a tape measure and measure our bathroom - after plastering, the dimensions have changed. Then we take a pencil and a sheet of paper, and sketch everything. Let's call this a bathroom plan. For the plan to be accurate, at this stage, we need to buy all the bathroom objects. It is important to remember: if the bathtub is tied to the size (I mean that your bathtub is not half a football field, but for example 1m.70cm by 1m.50cm), then the bath should be bought as long as possible. And if your size is 1m.68cm. - you need to buy a bath for 1m.70cm. Then 2cm. screw it up. With this sort of sorted out.

Video - turnkey bath repair

• We make (sketch) a detailed markup of the water supply and sewerage system... If everything is purchased, then we continue. We collect the bath in a free room. We put it on the legs and level it. As a rule, in most bathtubs, the height of the legs is adjustable - we adjust the height for you. We measure the height and width of the bath. We transfer the dimensions to the bathroom wall. All the same - we do the same with the sink and the washing machine. The next thing we do is mark on the walls how our water supply and sewerage system will go. A bathroom faucet is usually installed in the center 10 cm above the bathtub - this also needs to be sketched on the walls. The distance between the pipes to the bathroom faucet should be 15cm. We mark the water supply for the sink, based on the structural features of the bedside table, and the length of the flexible hoses of the mixer. We mark only one pipe under the washing machine - the cold one. We sketch the sewer pipes at an angle towards the riser (so that there is a drain). If a small slope can be made under the bath and sink, then the outlet under the washing machine should be at a distance of 50 cm. from the floor.

• We make (sketch) a detailed marking of the wiring... The next thing we do is define the wiring. How many sockets will we have, and where - if there is a washing machine, then next to it. Use an electric shaver - next to the mirror. If you have a backlit mirror, you will need to bring out a wire under it (decide at what height). If there will be a fan, we will bring it out under it too.

• Making strobes... When we have completely decided and sketched, we take a puncher and chase it according to the plan. Next, we remove and prime the grooves.

• We install water supply and sewerage... At the next stage, we install the water supply (comb) and sewerage system. Don't forget to install water meters and filters as well. Since our water supply is retracted into the walls, it is better to use polypropylene pipes or metal-plastic pipes.

• We mount a heated towel rail... At the next stage, we invite the masters or install the heated towel rail ourselves. The pipes are also wall-mounted.

• We mount the box... So we still have unclosed risers, and we are fixing it. We assemble a box from a metal profile and sew it up with plasterboard. Drywall must be moisture resistant - it is green. Also, do not forget about the technical hatch, it will be needed so that there is access to the taps and the meter. Then we install a perforated corner on the corner of our box and plaster the entire box.• We prime the walls and floor... As a result, what we see is a completely plastered bathroom, without visible pipes and wires. Once again, we look at everything in detail for the presence of irregularities. If there are any, we fix it with a spatula and sandpaper.• We spread the floor... Now we lay out the floor with tiles. For this we need - a drill, a mixer, a bucket, an ordinary spatula, a notched trowel, a professional tile cutter, crosses (1.5-2mm.).We lay out the tiles so that all the cut edges are under the bathroom and sink. This way we will only have a whole tile in plain sight.Do not forget to use the level and insert crosses.

• We spread 1 row of wall tiles under the bathroom from the floor... Then you will need to lay 1 row of wall tiles under the bathroom - for waterproofing. If you are using a small tile, then 30 centimeters from the floor will be sufficient.• We rub the tiles under the bathroom (wall, floor).• Installing the bath... It's time for the bathroom. We put the bath in, set it strictly in level and in length and in width. We expand the bath.• We put wall tiles... We lay out the wall tiles. We start right from the bathtub, from the most prominent corner, and drive in a circle. From the sides of the bath, you need to drill slats so that all the tiles are level. Finish the top, remove the slats and report on the bottom. Let the tiles dry and take out the crosses.• We rub the seams.• We mount the ceiling... Now we need to decide what we are going to do with the ceiling. There are several options: putty and paint, suspended from plastic panels, tensioned. They are all good in their own way, you choose.• We install the door. It's time to install the missing plumbing - a sink, a washing machine, a toilet bowl, faucets, a bath screen.It remains to hang the mirror, put the sockets and the bath is ready.This order of work will prevent you from making the most common mistakes when the quality of the work performed suffers and sometimes leads to rework.Hello dear readers! Continuing the theme of repair, I will tell you how to start repairing the bathroom and toilet with your own hands. Surely many repairing these premises are faced with such a question.If you are the owner of an apartment in which the bathroom is located separately from the toilet, I advise you to start repairs with your own hands at home by working out the same color scheme and style. Even if the rooms are divided, it is one whole. The design is chosen the same or similar in the type of finishing materials used and color.Toilet and bathroom are kind of twins. I advise you to cover the premises with tiles of the same type, but of a different shade. If you use the same finishing technique, you will end up with dissimilar rooms that will create a different mood. If the walls and floor are made in the same color, but with different finishing materials, discomfort will appear due to the contrast between the rooms.

Most often, in the bathroom and in the bathroom, tiles are used for wall decoration. If additional materials are used, then you will need a grinder, hammer, drill, and other tools.

From the materials you must have:

furniture;
plumbing;
water drain pipes and fittings (fittings);
tees;
overhead taps (the number depends on the number of devices);
ceramic tiles (floor and wall). If desired, any other material is used for wall and floor decoration;
plaster;
material for finishing the ceiling;
waterproofing mastic.

If the walls in the room are even, then additional leveling is not required. But with significant irregularities, they should be leveled with drywall.

When purchasing plumbing fixtures, you need to pay attention to pipe bends. The table shows the required diameters for the devices. Table "Diameters of pipes for plumbing fixtures".

After calculating the required number of outlet pipes, you can start repairing the bathroom and toilet with your own hands.

After the acquisition of all devices and materials, the following are performed:

preparatory work;
sealing one of two doorways;
laying of sewer pipes;
laying of an electrical network;
ceiling decoration;
wall decoration;
floor finishing;
plumbing installation, connection of a washing machine and a boiler;
installation of sockets, switches;
installation of furniture and connection of lighting in it.

Before starting work in the bathroom, you must:

demolish the partition between the two rooms;

dismantle the old wall, ceiling and floor covering;

get rid of garbage;

turn off the water supply, disconnect all devices and take them out of the room;

on a sheet of paper, draw the new location of plumbing fixtures, equipment, lockers and the front door;

turn off the electricity. Make sure that the wiring is de-energized using the indicator;

think over the ventilation of the bathroom.

The old coating must be completely removed. The tile is knocked off, and the paint is peeled off. Water-based emulsion is washed off with water, and the enamel will have to be cleaned off with a sandpaper. You can speed up the process with a drill, to which a metal brush is attached. Image - How to make repairs in a bathroom combined with a toilet with your own hands

Schematic wiring of communications is done in advance. Most often, the sink or shower stall is displaced. But the toilet remains in place.

When the preparation is completed, you can start to seal the doorway with your own hands.

Experts recommend using polypropylene pipes in the bathroom, since metal-plastic pipes are less reliable. The latter are connected with metal fittings and have rubber seals, which significantly reduces their durability. Plastic pipes are cheaper.

A new water supply system is laid only after dismantling the old one. The water supply was previously shut off, and the parts were prepared. Therefore, the technology for doing work with your own hands is as follows:

cut pipes for assembly. Calculate the required fittings to shut off the taps;
when measuring a pipe segment, you must first insert it into the connecting part, and then calculate the length;
familiarize yourself with the instructions for a plastic pipe soldering iron;
using a soldering iron, connect the pipes to the fittings.

The ends of the pipes to be welded must be pre-cleaned. Then they are simultaneously inserted into the attachment of the apparatus, held for a few seconds, pulled out and connected.

It must be remembered that the water conduit is assembled from the beginning of the riser to plumbing and taps. It is necessary to ensure that all joints are even and welded together securely.

For a hidden pipeline in the wall, a puncher is made using a perforator. Its size is calculated based on the size of the pipes, which should be located freely in it. The pipe is fixed with fasteners. The only drawback of this option is the possibility of leakage. In this case, it will be necessary to dismantle the wall. Therefore, it is safer to stop at an open sewer wiring.

Electric cables in the bathroom are fed to sockets and fixtures. It is necessary to calculate the location of the outlet for the boiler and washing machine. The lighting in the furniture on the mirror is also taken into account.

When laying cables with your own hands, you must:

provide grounding. The ground loop is made using a 3 core cable, which is green or yellow. You can create a ground loop using any metal element in the entrance (for example, an electrical panel housing);
provide a residual current device (RCD).A separate device should be installed in the bathroom;
it is necessary to correctly distribute the load on the cables. And also refuse to use junction boxes;
when choosing lamps, you need to pay attention to a sealed housing that will protect against moisture;
choose waterproof sockets with a cover. The latter will prevent moisture and steam from entering the outlet;
laying the cables after the walls are channeled.

If the wall is leveled with plasterboard and the cables have to be laid in this material, then a corrugated pipe must be used.

After preliminary preparation of the ceiling, you can start decorating it yourself:

clean the surface from dust and dirt;
overcoat;
apply a layer of putty;
apply a layer of reinforcing mesh;
leave to dry;
apply a second layer of putty and leave to dry again;
first with coarse and then fine sandpaper sand the surface until smooth;
clean the ceiling from dust with a brush;
apply a coat of paint.

If the ceiling was initially even, then the leveling with putty can not be used, but paint can be applied immediately, having previously over-primed the surface. Paint is the most affordable option for ceiling decoration. But it will look simple. Stretch ceilings give an unusual design. This option is more expensive and not everyone can afford it.

Instead of tensioning, gypsum plasterboard inserts are used, niches with backlight are made. Drywall is able to level the ceiling. But the material should be chosen moisture resistant and the surface should be pre-treated with a primer.

If the room of the combined bathroom and toilet is small, then you should not choose large tiles. She will visually reduce the space. In this case, you can opt for mirror tiles. In the combined bathroom, it is allowed to decorate the walls with water-resistant paint, decorative plaster or wallpaper. But such options are short-lived, therefore it is better to stay on the tile.

DIY wall decoration steps:

primer;
alignment;
tile sticker;
grouting.

Priming the surface is necessary for better adhesion of materials. If the wall is even, then you can glue the tiles after a layer of primer. For minor irregularities, plastering the surface using a reinforcing mesh is used (as for the ceiling).

Drywall will help hide significant irregularities. This material is purchased in sheets, carefully measured and glued to the wall. Then 2 layers of plaster with mesh are applied to it. After drying, it is smoothed to smoothness and covered with a primer. For reliability, 2 coats of primer can be applied.

For the installation of tiles, a special adhesive is used for rooms with high humidity. The tile is glued using a level. You should start from the bottom. It is better to retreat a small distance from the floor, because then the floor tiles will be installed.

Before gluing the tiles, you need to make pencil marks on the wall. They will be needed for guidance. The marking begins from the wall, which is in a conspicuous place. You also need to take into account that the vertical extreme rows of tiles on the left and right are approximately the same size. They must be measured in advance, carefully cut with a tile cutter.

In the process of gluing with a clean light cloth, excess glue is removed from the seams. After the glue has dried, you can start grouting. The shade of this material is matched to the color of the tile. The grout is applied with a rubber spatula, the excess material is removed. Then it is left to dry.

Before laying the tiles in the combined bathroom with your own hands, you need to level the floor. It should be remembered that the floor level in the room must be lower than the level in the entire apartment. This will protect against water leakage into the apartment.

creation of a waterproofing layer of bitumen-based mastic;
leveling the floor;
tile sticker.

Previously, the surface was prepared (removal of the old coating and cleaning of debris). After that, the floor is washed out, dried and mastic is applied. It is applied like paint. This material is needed in order to create a moisture barrier.

In case of significant irregularities, a cement floor screed is applied. With the help of beacons and a thread, marks are made, along which a leveling mixture of cement, sand, water will be applied. It is necessary to dilute the mixture in parts and apply very quickly, carefully leveling with a spatula.

After leveling, the room is left for 2 days. After that, beacons are removed from the screed and the floor is covered with a film. Care must be taken so that cracks do not appear on the material. To do this, it needs to be moistened with water from time to time. After a month, the material will finally harden. Then you can install the tiles for the floor. Laying it is similar to gluing it on the walls.

The final stages of the repair in the combined bathroom and toilet are the installation of plumbing equipment, checking the reliable connection of all elements, connecting the water supply. All available cabinets are mounted, lighting is connected to them. Sockets are installed, lamps are installed, electricity is connected.

Video (click to play).

It is possible to carry out repairs in a combined bathroom on your own. It is only necessary to observe safety precautions. If difficulties arise at any stage of the work, it is better to seek help from specialists, and then continue independent work.