Kamaz 5320 DIY repair

In detail: kamaz 5320 do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Natural for Kamaz "disease".

Over time, the bottom of the old tractor "decays" under the feet of the passenger and the driver, as well as the wings of the cab. Well ... We will start repairing the KamAZ cab first of all with cutting off the old wings and installing new ones.

welding cab wing kamaz

Welding the amplifier and replacing the threshold

As you can see in the photo above, you only need an amplifier to cook for the cockpit. The wing is bolted to the cockpit. Its function is mainly to reinforce the body. It is part of the entire Cab frame.

In this particular case, the old amplifier was cut higher than usual (the corrosion was at this level). And so, we look at the photo of the welding place.

Welding of the amplifier from the inside of the bobbin of the cab

welding of the amplifier in the front

welding of the amplifier at the front

Welding to the bottom amplifier and bottom.

Here, first weld the amplifier.

then the threshold to the amplifier.
At the same time, look outside the door so that it does not get pulled together during welding.
Having adjusted the gaps, then we cook (the bottom) and all that remains.
When replacing thresholds. Remember to drill holes. as shown in the photos above.)

REPAIR CABINS KAMAZ 5320, 5511,55102

After an overhaul of the cab.

After welding robot. The putty process is in progress. It is worn on clean metal (after processing) with a grinder, or manually with sandpaper until it shines, from rust and paint. I advise the first layer of putty, body with aluminum powder.

Here you say; This is what they show us, we are talking about KAMAZ. And they show a foreign car. I will say this is a piece taken from my (video) disc. The best video on putty was not made by anyone (on KAMAZ). They did not want to reveal which car (to putty), it makes no difference: There is only one process,

Video (click to play).

large spatula for large dents.

Medium spatula. for medium dents.

Small for small ones.

Grinding machine. All information about the tools: shown (video) on top of the course on how to putty a car.

11,00R20 Bel-124 ns 16

The KamAZ 5320 gearbox is a mechanism that converts and transmits torque from the crankshaft to the wheels. This device is under severe stress and requires regular inspections, adjustments, and repairs.

After repair or replacement of spare parts, the assembly must be adjusted. The following parameters are adjusted in the crankcase: the pre-tension of the bearings on the gear pair of bevel-shaped wheels, the center differential, the side clearance and the contact mark on the gear teeth.

The preload of bearings on wheelsets is adjusted in the following order:

sharpening or replacing shims to reduce the thickness of the package by the amount of axial displacement from 0.04 to 0.06 mm;
tightening of the bevel gear flange fixing nut (force from 240 to 360 N);
measurement of the rolling force of the bearing cup under conditions of continuous rotation (5 revolutions) in one direction.

The cranking force must be within the range of 11.4 N to 22.8 N. If the value obtained is not within the indicated limits, then the adjustment should be repeated.

When the tension of the bearings of the drive and driven gears is adjusted, they are installed in the crankcase. Then you need to adjust the side clearance using shims (permissible value from 0.20-0.35 mm).

Before adjusting the differential, you need to set it so that the teeth of the driven gear are symmetrical to the teeth of the driving spur wheel. Then the bolts should be tightened with a force of 100-120 N. Differential adjustment includes the following actions:

evenly tighten the adjusting nuts on both sides until a gap is obtained between the bearing covers;
gap measurement (the value should be equal to 0.1–0.2 mm);
tightening the fastening bolts of the covers with a force of 250-320 N.

This unit in KamAZ vehicles rarely breaks down, but constant and serious loads still make themselves felt. A bright signal of a malfunction of a unit is noise when the car is moving, although it can serve as an indication of breakdowns and other units. Diagnostics of a malfunction of a bridge gearbox by noise can be performed in three stages, and each stage can serve as a separate method for detecting a breakdown.

Acceleration, speed reduction with the engine running and gear engaged:

while the car is moving at a speed of 25 km / h, listen to the engine;
in the process of gradual acceleration of the car to 85 km / h, determine the beginning of the appearance of noise and the moment of its fading;
gradually slow down (without braking) to 25 km / h and clarify the moment when the noise occurs and dies down;

If extraneous sounds appear and subside at the same speed during acceleration and deceleration, then the gearbox of the KamAZ middle axle is to blame. It is necessary to do the next stage of diagnostics.

Acceleration, neutral and engine off:

accelerate the car to 80 km / h;
shift the gear lever to neutral speed;
turn off the engine;
listen to the engine.

When drifting, there is no noise, but under loads there is - the axle gearbox is faulty. You can fully verify by going through the third stage.

"Progazovka" in place:

turn on the engine and run well;
listen to the engine.

If there are no noises identified at the first stage, the unit is definitely faulty and requires repair or replacement.

There are three types of damage to the gearbox of the KamAZ 5320 bridge:

increase in the temperature of the main gear;
leakage of lubricating fluid;
increased noise.

The main reasons for the increase in the temperature of the axle gearbox are:

There is little or, conversely, a lot of oil in the crankcase. The problem is eliminated either by adding oil or by draining the excess.
Increased bearing tension. You need to adjust it.
The meshing in the gears is incorrect. Also eliminated by adjustment.

The gearbox KamAZ 5320 of the rear axle, which makes a lot of noise, has one of these faults:

Tapered bearings are worn out. To fix the problem, you need to adjust or replace the bearings.
The meshing in the gears is broken... This problem occurs when the side gap is incorrect or the contact patch is misaligned. Adjust knot to get rid of noise.
Gear teeth badly worn or damaged. Replace the clutch pair and immediately adjust the side clearance.
Bearings loose. Tighten the roller bearing nuts and adjust their torque.

The main reasons for oil leaks from the crankcase:

Worn cuff. The solution to the problem is to replace the old part.
Breather dirty. Clean and rinse the part.

To disassemble this node you need:

unscrew the bolts of the differential cup and remove it;
unscrew the self-locking bolts of the drive wheel bearing cup;
remove the cotter pin and unscrew the nut, remove the washer and flange;
unscrew the cover bolts and remove it;
take out the rear shaft.

To disassemble the drive bevel gear of the gearbox of the middle axle of the KamAZ truck, you must:

unlock and unscrew the nut, remove the lock washer;
unscrew the bearing nut with a pin;
remove the glass, adjustment washers and spacer sleeve;
Remove the bevel-type bearing inner race from the drive bevel gear.

The gearbox of the rear axle KamAZ is disassembled in the same way.

More about replacing the gearbox of the KamAZ bridge: the unit is selected according to such a key parameter as the number of engagement of the teeth of the driven gear with the teeth of the drive wheel, that is, the gear ratio. The higher its value, the higher the tractive moment of the mechanism and its price. Therefore, it is advisable to select these units according to operating conditions, namely:

if the car is operated on flat roads without a trailer, then the gear ratio should be from 4.98 to 5.43 engagement;
when KamAZ is operated on flat roads with a trailer, the gear ratio should be from 4.98 to 5.43 engagement;
road train operation on rough terrain roads - from 6.53 to 7.22 engagement;
road trains or KamAZ trucks without trailers on mountain roads - 7.22 engagement.

Since truck drivers often travel long distances, they often have to carry out Kamaz repairs with their own hands. Of course, in most cases, we are not talking about a full-fledged repair - the driver cannot drag a trailer with spare parts with him. Nevertheless, the driver's task is to correctly diagnose and take measures in order to safely return to base or drive to a car service.

However, the main way to prevent breakdowns is prevention. Moreover, for such a car as Kamaz, repair and maintenance is carried out in strict accordance with the factory recommendations. The manufacturer provides for the initial period of operation of the new vehicle - one thousand kilometers. During this period, it is especially important to follow all the manufacturer's recommendations, in particular, not to exceed the speed of fifty kilometers per hour and not to load the car by more than 75 percent of the nominal value. Moreover, each new car comes with a whole set of documents, including a Kamaz repair manual.

It is clear that repairs are primarily aimed at preventing more serious breakdowns. The timely replacement of all working fluids also belongs to this kind of preventive measures. Got it. that lubricants and coolants should be selected in strict accordance with the existing recommendations of the car manufacturer.

Leaks in the cooling system, faults in valves and tank gaskets must be eliminated without fail immediately after their detection. Otherwise, all this can lead to cavitation destruction of the unit and the liquid pump.

And, say, do-it-yourself repair of a Kamaz engine may be required if the pressure alarm in the lubrication system lights up. In this case, it is undesirable to continue driving until the malfunction is found and eliminated. The use of a machine with a leaky intake tract can also lead to premature engine failure.

To avoid cracks in the cylinder head fastening bosses, it is necessary to reliably isolate the threaded holes for the bolts from the ingress of dirt or liquid. It is especially important to perform such insulation if work is planned to be carried out to replace the engine heads.

Sometimes repairs may require welding. In this case, it is very important to check the disconnection of the battery. Also, the positive contact must be removed from the generator. As for the ground wire of the welding machine, it should be connected close to the weld.

As you know, repairs will be performed less often if the car is provided with proper operating conditions. However, there are also recommendations on how to behave with a faulty car:

if a coolant leak occurs while driving, the cooling system can be refilled with water. You should know that this measure is temporary. Such a coolant can be used to drive to the place of repair,
if the machine is moved on roads with liquid mud, it is necessary to periodically flush the radiator surface with water under pressure. This will avoid procedures such as repairing truck radiators. In order to carry out such a flushing, the cab must be raised. Make sure that the water jet does not hit the generator,
towing a car with an inoperative engine must include the operation of removing the propeller shaft.This will help to postpone the repair of the KAMAZ gearbox, because otherwise you will be provided with scuffing of the bearings of the gears of the secondary shaft in the gearbox.

As already mentioned, the importance of preventive check-ups cannot be underestimated. Indeed, thanks to this, you can avoid such manipulations as the repair of the injection pump, and you can also insure yourself against unpleasant breakdowns while driving.

You need to perform a daily inspection of the main parts and assemblies. This inspection also includes checking the level of working fluids, as well as several other manipulations:

checking the status of the steering drive,
checking the operation of all braking systems,
checking the condition of wheels and tires.

In order to ensure the trouble-free operation of all units, scheduled inspections are carried out. Their frequency is twice a year. Such inspections are called seasonal maintenance and are intended to prepare the vehicle for use in winter and summer, respectively.

When repairing the engine, use the following guidelines:

- before the expiration of the warranty period, do not disassemble the engine (do not remove the cylinder heads, oil sump, do not break the seals of the high pressure fuel pump and do not disassemble it), otherwise the right to warranty repair of the engine will be lost. If necessary, it is allowed to replace high and low pressure fuel lines, hoses, oil, fuel, and air filters, water pump, fan, switch
fluid couplings, external fasteners, air intake ducts and admissible manifolds, catchment pipes, nozzles, push rods, turbochargers;

- disassemble the engine on the rotary stand R-770 (Fig. 76). Before installing the engine on the stand, remove the full-flow oil filter, fan, exhaust manifolds assembled with branch pipes, brackets of front supports, starter. To install the engine on the stand, install and fix the brackets in the holes for the pipelines of the prestarting heater in the cylinder block, then screw in the pins 7 until they stop. Turn the engine around the horizontal axis of the stand by turning the handle of the worm gear. Before turning the engine around the vertical axis of the stand, press the detent pedal 3;

- lubricate the rubbing surfaces of parts, except as otherwise specified, with engine oil during assembly;

- when fastening parts by means of threaded connections, except for those specifically indicated in the text, ensure the tightening torque according to table. 6;

- reduce the tightening torques by 10% if
engine oil is used as a lubricating oil
material;

- non-metallic gaskets for ease of assembly, if necessary, insert with grease applied to one of the mating parts. Make sure that the gaskets evenly adhere to the mating surfaces, are tightly clamped and do not protrude beyond the contour of the mating surfaces;

- when installing, lubricate rubber sealing rings and lead-in chamfers of mating parts with grease;

- do not bend the pins when putting parts on them;

- after repairing assembly units and replacing them, run in the engine at a stand equipped in accordance with the requirements of GOST 14846-69, in one of the following modes, depending on the replaced parts:

1. After replacing the crankshaft, camshaft, one or more pistons or liners, more than half of the main or connecting rod bearing shells, as well as more than two piston rings, run in the main mode, which includes "cold" and "hot" running (table . 7, 8). At the beginning of the "cold" run-in, the temperature of the oil supplied to the engine is allowed, 50 ° C and higher. The oil pressure in the main line of the lubrication system is not lower than 98.07 kPa (1 kgf / cm 2) at a minimum idle speed and 392.3. 539.4 kPa (4.5 kgf / cm 2) - at a rotational speed of 2600 min -1.

Before "hot" running-in, check and, if necessary, adjust the thermal clearances in the gas distribution mechanism, the fuel injection advance angle, the tightening of the cylinder head bolts.

Throwing out and leakage of water and fuel, as well as the breakthrough of gases at the joints are not allowed.

2. After replacing less than half of the main or connecting rod bearing shells or one piston ring in no more than two cylinders, run in in the “hot” running mode.

3. After replacing the cylinder head or other parts, the replacement of which requires removing the head, after removing it to inspect the parts of the cylinder-piston group, as well as replacing the oil, water or fuel pumps, fuel pump drive, distribution gears, crankshaft cups, flywheel housing , the front cover of the block, run in the engine in the mode specified in table. 9.

4. After the overhaul without replacing the units, assembly units, parts, run in the engine in the mode according to item 3.

The engine break-in must always be completed on the car, observing the recommended driving speeds specified in the "Car break-in" section of the Operator's Manual attached to the car.

To remove the fuel pump drive gear assembly with the shaft:

- unscrew the four bolts 4 (Fig. 77) fastening the compressor and remove the compressor; unscrew the three bolts 3 fastening the power steering pump and remove the pump

- unscrew two bolts 4 (Fig. 78) and two bolts 1 securing the rear plates, loosen the tightening bolt 8 and remove the driving half-coupling 9 complete with flange 7 and front plates 6, unscrew two bolts 3 and remove the rear plates 11;

Rice. 78. High pressure fuel pump drive: 1-bolts of the rear plates; 2 - rear leading half-coupling flange; 3, 4 - bolts; 5 - bolts for fastening the front plates; 6 - front plates; 7 - front flange of the coupling half; 8 - tie bolt; 9 - leading half-coupling; 10 - nut; 11 - back plates

- unscrew the nut 10 (see Fig. 78) and with the puller 2 (Fig. 79) remove the flange 1 of the driving half of the coupling 9 (see Fig. 78); - remove housing 1 (see Fig. 77) of the rear bearing assembly with a collar;

- Remove the high pressure fuel pump drive gear assembly with the shaft (Fig. 80).

Rice. 79. Removing the flange of the driving half-coupling with a puller: 1 - flange of the driving half-coupling; 2 - puller

Rice. 81. Removing the cylinder liner with a puller I801.05.000: 1 - screw; 2 - handle; 3 - case; 4 - support; 5 - sleeve; 6 - capture

When assembling, align the marks on the ends of the drive gear and the camshaft gear. Tighten the tightening bolt 8 (see Fig. 78) after installing the assembly unit on the engine.

To remove the cylinder liner with a puller I80 1.05.000 (Fig. 81) fold the grip 6 along the screw 1 and in this form insert it inside the liner.

Having hooked the grip on the lower end of the sleeve 5, set it perpendicular to the screw, then install the supports 4 in the hole on the mating plane of the block and, turning the handle 2, unscrew the screw until the sleeve is completely removed.

To remove the flywheel housing:

- remove the compressor (see above);

- remove the power steering pump (see above);

- unscrew three bolts 2 (see Fig. 77) and remove the rear eyelet; remove the brackets for the fuel outlet pipe 5 from the injectors;

- remove the oil dipstick mounting bolt; unscrew the flywheel mounting bolts and mounting bolts with M8 thread (Fig. 82) remove the flywheel;