DIY nissan sunny engine overhaul

It is not always easy to come to the conclusion about the advisability of a complete overhaul of the engine, since it is necessary to be based on a number of indicators.

High mileage is not a sufficient indicator of the need for overhaul, on the other hand, low mileage does not exclude the need for overhaul. The most important metric appears to be the timeliness of routine engine maintenance. With a timely oil and air filter change, as well as with all other necessary maintenance work, the engine will serve reliably for many thousands of kilometers. On the contrary, inadequate or untimely maintenance can lead to a sharp reduction in engine life.

Increased oil consumption indicates worn piston rings, valve stem seals and / or valve guides. Make sure that leaks do not cause increased oil consumption, and only then conclude that the piston rings and guide bushings are unsuitable. To determine the probable cause of the malfunction, measure the compression in the engine cylinders.

Check the oil pressure with a pressure gauge screwed into the place of the contact sensor of the emergency oil pressure and compare the check result with the standard value. If the oil pressure is low, the cause may be wear on the main and connecting rod bearings and / or oil pump parts.

Loss of power, “dips” in engine operation, detonation or metal knocks, increased noise from the gas distribution mechanism, increased fuel consumption indicate the need for overhaul, especially if all these signs of abnormal operation appear at the same time. If making all adjustments does not lead to improvement, then the only remedy is repair with replacement or refurbishment of parts.

Overhaul consists of restoring engine parts to the condition specified in the technical data for a new engine. During overhaul, pistons and piston rings are replaced. The connecting rod and main bearings must also be replaced, and, if necessary, the crankshaft is re-ground until the standard clearances in the main and connecting rod journals with main and connecting rod bearings are restored. As a rule, valves are also subject to repair, since their condition at the time of repair is usually not entirely satisfactory. During an engine overhaul, such units as the ignition distributor, starter and generator are also repaired. As a result, the repaired engine must have the qualities of an almost new unit and withstand significant mileage without failures.

During a major overhaul, important parts of the cooling system such as hoses, thermostat and coolant pump should be replaced. The radiator must be carefully inspected for tightness and cleanliness of the internal channels. If the engine is overhauled, the oil pump should also be replaced.

Before starting an engine overhaul, review the appropriate procedures to get an impression of the scope and requirements of the work ahead. Subject to observance of all norms and rules, with all the necessary tools and devices, as well as meeting all technical requirements, overhaul is not difficult to perform, but it will take a significant investment of time.Roughly it will take at least two weeks, especially if you have to go to a specialized workshop to repair or restore parts. Check the availability of spare parts and arrange for the necessary special tools and equipment to be purchased in advance. Almost all work can be done with a standard set of tools, although accurate measuring instruments will be needed to check and determine the suitability of certain parts. Often, the condition of parts is checked in specialized workshops, which also receive recommendations for replacing or restoring certain parts. Warning

You should contact car service workshops only after completely disassembling the engine and checking the condition of all parts, especially the cylinder block and crankshaft, in order to decide which maintenance and repair operations will be performed in the workshops. Since the condition of the cylinder block is a determining factor in deciding whether to repair it further or to buy a new repair cylinder block, you should buy spare parts or carry out machining operations on related parts only after thoroughly checking its technical condition. Make it a rule not to make hasty, unreasonable decisions - otherwise, repairs can be more expensive due to the installation of worn out or repair parts.

In conclusion, we note that the assembly of any units should be carried out with great care in a clean room in order to avoid further failures of the repaired engine and to ensure its reliable operation.

1 large oil consumption - for me it was 0.5 liters per thousand km.

2 engine sluggishness (in my opinion)

It was decided to replace the valve stem seals and install a new set of piston rings.

The following parts were ordered:

Rings 12033-5M370 Nissan 2 188,32
Cylinder head gasket Reinz 61-33130-00 761,00
Oil caps Corteco 12015361 17X29.83 = 507,11
Crankshaft oil seal front Nissan 13510-V720A 200,38

Valve cover gasket Nissan 13271-4M501 58,69
Valve cover gasket Nissan 13270-AU005 415,36

For every fireman ordered:

Valve retainer Nissan 13210-4F100 5x10.38 =51,90

Camshaft bolt 6 16 13058-53Y00 58,04

Connecting rod bolt 12109-77A00 64,52

Connecting rod nut 12112-42L00 2x40.85 = 81,70

Antifreeze 10 l. 700

Oil 5L. 1900

Oil filter 200

Sealant 200

Dis. fuel 3l. 85

Valve lapping paste 150

Engine cleaner spray 150

torque wrench from 19 to 110 Nm. 1600

the head with a hexagon by 10 (as for the head of the Vaz 10) 150

valve drying tool 150

piston ring compression tool 150

TOTAL: 9822,02

On Friday, I washed the car, drove it into the garage at work, and borrowed a working vehicle (no wheels in any way!).

All work was carried out in one person and with two hands (except for removing the head) began on Friday after work, drained antifreeze, oil. He removed the ground terminal, crankcase protection, coils, candles, valve cover, a pipe with a mass air flow sensor, unfastened all the connectors (having previously photographed it on the phone to know what it was). I dropped the division in the gas tank, removed two hoses from the throttle valve and plugged the incoming one with a candle so that gasoline would not flow.

He took off the right front wheel, tightened two nuts on one of the studs, put the 5th gear and set the TDC of the 1st cylinder with a key to 22, for fidelity, unscrewed the radio antenna and inserted it into the well of the 1st cylinder.

He took off the side cover of the head, measured the output of the chain tensioner rod and was taken aback by 16mm.

Also found a torn back cushion dvmgatel.

I fixed the chain with an elastic band with hooks on the hood cover.

If you follow the manuals, then the intake camshaft gear (I have variable valve timing) before dismantling must be moved to the extreme position and fixed with a 2.5 mm stopper, racked my brains for a long time, but after reading other reports I unscrewed it like this. He also unscrewed the exhaust camshaft gear, locking it with a 22 key.

We unscrew the camshaft necks in accordance with the manual, and in order to put them back as it grew, we photograph the location.

I put all the camshafts in the valve cover and went home at night it started raining, and my friend's garage (in which all the action took place) has an unsealed roof and since Saturday morning I found a small puddle of water in the valve cover. But everything worked out for the night, the camshaft necks did not have time to rust, and in the morning he wiped everything, abundantly oiled it and put it in a dry, safe place in the garage.

On Friday night I urgently ordered:

Camshaft timing chain Nissan 13028-4M51A 2 789,34

Exhaust camshaft gear Nissan 13024-4M510 971,90

Crankshaft crankshaft gear wheel Nissan13021-4M501 363,94

O-ring Nissan 21049-4M500 105,37

O-ring Nissan 15066-5E510 87,91

Engine mount rear Nissan 11320-4M400 1 538,18

O-ring Nissan 21049-4M510 104,86

O-ring Nissan 15066-5E510 87,98

TOTAL: 6050,00

On the good, it was necessary to order the intake gear and the chain tensioner, but the gear has a price tag (horse) approximately equal to the budget of the entire repair approx. 13t.r., and forgot to order the tensioner (he of course got used to it a little, but he won't be scared to walk).

Until the spare parts come to lose time, I did not continue to disassemble the engine.

I took plastic bags at home, took out the valve adjusting washers (I have them in the form of a glass), wrote down where I took the washer and put it in a separate bag with a note.

He took off the ski, unscrewed two bolts with exhaust springs and a catalyst from the block (two bolts).

He unscrewed the two supporting struts of the intake manifold, removed all the remaining chips from the sensors and the generator.

He called a friend and threw off his head together, it’s not hard to lift one really without problems, but the branch pipes of the braid wires get in the way so that without a partner this moment can’t be done (he took off his head assembled with an intake manifold and a catalyst).

We unscrew the pallet, insert a knife between the pallet and the block and cut off the sealant around the perimeter, this is a dreary business.

We unscrew the nuts of the connecting rods of the 2nd and 3rd cylinders (they are in BDC) and gently push up with the hammer handle. After removing the pistons, we connect the connecting rods so as not to lose or confuse the liners. We take off the old rings and start scrubbing them. Soft meth helped a lot in this matter. brush for a screwdriver (brushes are different here you need to carefully try if the piston does not scratch then go), and clean the grooves from carbon deposits with a piece of an old ring (the old-fashioned way).

The condition of the cylinders is good there are no steps at TDC at all (to the touch), the hon is visible. With the rings, the situation was worse; the compression gap was approx. 0.5 mm., The oil scraper valves were coked and their stroke was minimal, the gap of the new rings was within the normal range closer to the minimum value.

After washing, the piston is abundantly lubricated with oil, we put new rings according to the manual, tighten it with a mandrel and install it in the cylinder (having previously liberally anointed with oil).

On the connecting rod, so as not to be confused, the cylinder numbers are knocked out on the upper and lower parts, directed towards the passenger compartment. He tightened the connecting rods with a torque wrench at first 15 Nm., And then turned it 40 degrees (with a marker I marked the head at 20 degrees).

Putting back the pistons of the 2nd and 3rd cylinders, we turn the crankshaft counterclockwise until the pistons of the 1st and 4th cylinders are in BDC, and we perform the same manipulations with the pistons.

Then he took up his head. there was too little space in the garage, he put his head on a work vehicle and took him to work.

He was drying the head on the 1st cylinder so as not to confuse anything (he used a tool to dry the head of a VAZ 2112 16-valve). The condition of the exhaust valves is deplorable, again, helped by a screwdriver only with a small rigid nozzle. We clean each valve, rub it lightly only so that a matte silver ring appears on the valve, clean the chamber behind the seat from carbon deposits. We dismantle the old valve stem seals and install new ones (set the head to 10 just rests against the metal part of the cap). The rubber part of the old caps was almost as soft as on the new ones, but the diameter of the hole in which the valve moves is almost 1mm larger.

The chain and the remaining parts arrived by the weekend of next week, the head was ready for installation and covered with a rag, the pistons were already in place.

I put in a new rear engine mount and put back the ski. We remove the drive belts of the kondeya and the pump (after installing the 1st and 4th pistons, we set the 1st piston to TDC), the right engine mount, both tensioners, the crankshaft pulley (stopped the crankshaft for unscrewing with a wooden block).

We unscrew the side cover - it is very inconvenient, it is advisable to calculate how many bolts it holds and where they are located before removing it (there were cases when the cover broke for a reason - we did not see all the bolts). Like the pallet, the lid is held on to the native hemorrhoids, ugh, I wanted to say the sealant, carefully cut off with a clerical knife.

Accordingly, the pallet, both side covers and the block seats for them, are cleaned of sealant and degreased, we change the gaskets, the knee star, the crankshaft oil seal, we put the chain according to the marks. Although it is written in the manual that the chain does not come off if there is a side cover and it seems like there is some kind of influx on the side cover, he did not risk it and fixed it with rubber bands with hooks.

Ordered by mistake twice O-ring Nissan 15066-5E510 87,98

and put both gaskets, it seems like one hole is not used and is plugged with a side cover, but everything is more reliable.

We apply the sealant to the side cover (along the trajectory indicated in the manual) and screw back our favorite cover.

We put on belt tensioners, belts, a pillow, unscrew the ski. Apply sealant to the pallet (thickness, sealant trajectory, bolt tightening order and torques - manual) and screw it into place. We put the ski in place.

We put the cylinder head gasket on the cleaned surface of the block and call a friend's help to mount the head in its rightful place. We stretch out the head (sequence, moments - manual. Bolts left the old ones, turn at an angle like connecting rods).

We wash the tensioner with gasoline and put it back. We put valve washers, camshafts, camshaft gears (attention to the risks of camshafts and chains) and lubricate everything with abundant oil.

Apply sealant and screw on the side cover of the head. We change the gaskets of the valve cover, not forgetting to drip with sealant, we screw the valve cover in the right places.

We connect back all the pipes, fuel and air hoses, chips, candles, coils, connect the sensors from the bottom, from the top, check the integrity of the seals ... ...

And on this the second weekend ended (it was not too late to start, and the sealant probably did not gain the necessary strength) Monday began and terrible torment was twisted or still forgot some tensioner bolt, camshaft gear nuts ....

In the evening I put on the oil filter, fill in oil, antifreeze, turn the engine without candles and here it is the moment X — the mustache of norms started up, drove it up, pulled up my face, pumped antifreeze into the radiator of the stove. I taught the revolutions the next day by pedaling, drove 150 km, the machine became faster, but more than 3 thousand. I do not give revolutions, the oil is kept at the same level there, time will tell.

although in this case there is an option to change the valve seals (3000 rupees) and the chain (7000 rupees), it is not known whether the oil burner will stop.
by the way, look at the air filter - is there oil from the breather or not.
but now it is not known whether the rings need to be changed or not (but most likely it is necessary) and this is another 10,000. and it is also not known in what condition the knee and the shells are.

put a contract
before that there was capacity - 225tysch passed. flow rate 200 ml per 100 compression 14

put a contract - the installer says that when without a catalyst, the exhaust went clean.
now a liter per 2000 km of consumption was Helix 5v40 - dripping from the crankcase (you need to stretch it out) and from the junction of the motor box (which is strange, the engine has passed somewhere 50,000 km - only running in). the crankcase was opened to force the oil into the pump with a syringe (the pump does not work when dry)

By the way, the question is - is it true that the crankcase of the Nissan sits on the sealant and not on the pad.

Considering that the capital costs even more than the contract (depending on how many intermediaries), the contract is a more reliable option, the main thing is that the hands grow from the shoulders and the contract is Japanese and not removed and washed from a sled with the same mileage.

in general, I liked it on the contract, only the LPG injectors still need to be drilled and that's it

Repair manual for Nissan Sunny (Nissan Sunny) 1991-1997. 3.2.3. Dismantling and overhaul of the engine

3.2.2. Dismantling and overhaul of the engine This subsection details the procedure for performing such work as dismantling the power unit from the car and overhauling the cylinder head, cylinder block / crankshaft housing, and other parts of the internal structure of the engine. This subsection provides advice on the preparation and organization of overhaul and purchase of spare parts, as well as detailed procedures for disassembling the engine, check.

3.2.2.13. Starting the engine after major repairs PERFORMANCE ORDER 1. After finishing the engine assembly, double check the level of oil and coolant. Check the correct connection of wiring and hoses, remove all foreign objects from the engine compartment. 2. Disconnect the spark plug wires, remove the spark plugs and turn off the ignition by pulling high.

It is not always easy to come to the conclusion about the advisability of a complete overhaul of the engine, since it is necessary to be based on a number of objective indicators.

High mileage is not a sufficient indicator of the need for overhaul, on the other hand, low mileage does not exclude the need for overhaul. The most important metric appears to be the timeliness of routine engine maintenance. With a timely oil and filter change, as well as with all other necessary maintenance work, the engine will serve reliably for many thousands of kilometers. On the contrary, inadequate or untimely maintenance can lead to a sharp reduction in engine life.

Increased oil consumption indicates worn piston rings, valve guides and valve stem seals. Make sure that leaks do not cause increased oil consumption, and only then conclude that the piston rings and valve guides are unsuitable. To determine the probable cause of the malfunction, measure the compression in the engine cylinders (see subsection 3.1.1.2).

To determine the amount of work to be done, check the compression in the engine cylinders. Carry out also tests using a vacuum meter and determine the nature of the indications of this device (see subsection 3.1.2.3).

Check the oil pressure with a pressure gauge screwed into the place of the oil pressure sensor and compare the check result with the standard value. If the oil pressure is low, wear on the main bearings, connecting rod bearings or oil pump parts may be the cause.

During a major overhaul, important parts of the cooling system such as hoses, drive belts, thermostat and coolant pump should be replaced. The radiator must be inspected for tightness and cleanliness of the internal channels (see subsection 4.3). If you bought a repair engine, or an incomplete cylinder block, then some suppliers do not guarantee the operation of these units without a high-quality flushing of the radiator. When overhauling the engine, it is also recommended to replace the oil pump.

Before starting an engine overhaul, review the appropriate procedures to get an impression of the scope and requirements of the work ahead. Subject to all the rules and regulations, with all the necessary tools and devices, overhaul is not difficult to perform, but it will take a significant investment of time.Roughly it will take at least two weeks, especially if you have to go to a specialized workshop to repair and restore parts. Check the availability of spare parts and arrange for the necessary special tools and equipment to be purchased in advance. Almost all work can be done with a standard set of tools, although accurate measuring instruments will be needed to check and determine the suitability of certain parts. Often, the condition of parts is checked in specialized workshops, which also receive recommendations for replacing or restoring certain parts.

You should contact car service workshops only after completely disassembling the engine and checking the condition of all parts, especially the cylinder block, in order to decide which maintenance and repair operations will be performed in the workshops.

Since the condition of the cylinder block is a determining factor in making a decision on its further repair or on the purchase of a new (or repair) cylinder block, it is necessary to buy spare parts or perform machining operations on related parts only after thoroughly checking its technical condition. Make it a rule that the true cost of a repair is time, so you don't have to pay to install worn or remanufactured parts.

In conclusion, we note that the assembly of any units should be carried out with great care in a clean room in order to avoid further failures of the repaired engine and to ensure its reliable operation.

This manual describes in detail the procedure for performing such work as dismantling the power unit from the vehicle and overhauling the cylinder head, cylinder block / crankshaft housing and other engine parts.

Advice is given on the preparation and organization of work on overhaul and the purchase of spare parts, procedures for removal, inspection of technical condition, repair and installation of engine components and parts are described in detail.

From the next section onwards, the description is based on the assumption that the engine has been removed from the vehicle. A description of the types of repairs without removing the engine from the car, as well as the procedure for removing and installing external units and engine assemblies required for overhaul are given in the relevant sections.

At the beginning of this subsection, all the regulatory data necessary for checking the technical condition and overhaul, the procedures of which are described below, are given.

Group: NISMO-CLUB
Posts: 79
Registration: 4.2.2011
User #: 20216
Car: Ford Focus, I choose the second

In general, I also encountered the Nissan, and in particular with the Nissan Pulsar FNN15, which has a GA15DE on board. I got the car in a very poor condition, but its price justified the investment (in my opinion). The car was purchased, a complete troubleshooting of the car and engine diagnostics, in particular, was carried out, which showed that the motor needs repair or replacement. T.K. there is a production base where you can safely engage in repairs, spare parts for the engine cost reasonable money and are quite affordable, then the first scenario was chosen.

Now the essence of the topic - after deciding on the capital, I looked for similar topics on the forum and was surprised that there was not a single topic where the repair of this motor was fully covered. And I decided to fill this gap on my own. According to the first estimates, the budget should be 8-12 thousand for spare parts + machine tools, work on the engine, on disassembly and assembly, troubleshooting - free of charge. will be done independently.

In this thread, I will try to reflect in detail all aspects of the repair, at the same time draw up a detailed estimate for the necessary spare parts, well, and highlight the nuances that may seem important and interesting to me. In terms of tuning, I understand that this is not the engine from which miracles should be expected, but after the repair I do not exclude that there will be a little tuning (most likely I will limit myself to a more productive release).

To begin with, the results of troubleshooting are compression 12-11-13-12, in the 3 and 4 cylinders there are traces of oil combustion on the candles, the nozzles of the 2 and 4 cylinders are leaking, which complicates the engine start after a long stay. Plus a lot of leaks through oil seals and gaskets. When starting up, the oil can on the dashboard goes out after 3-4 seconds of the starter's operation, which brings up thoughts about the serviceability of the oil pump and the condition of the crankshaft bearings. The motor does not knock, drives, smokes blue smoke when accelerating. In general, a typical motor requiring overhaul.

I plan to start disassembling in 2-3 days, when a replacement car appears and the pulsar can be put for repair.

Cars change, friends and the forum remain. [my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1209]

Message valerdon »11 Sep 2010, 16:48

Install the tension roller.
I'll make a reservation. Before you put this belt. Unexpectedly, they pressed the fuel pump frog. And oh devil, directly from the central drive, to which the toothed pulley of the injection pump is screwed, diesel fuel flowed. I had to remove the injection pump. Go buy and change the oil seal. Temporary difficulties…
Then, with the tubes that go to the nozzles removed, they began to pump diesel fuel in order to expel air from the system. Pumped over by scrolling the starter. Then they twisted the tubes onto the nozzles, but not completely, and twirled them with the starter. Then they finally screwed it up.
We put on all the auxiliary belts (3 pcs.). Pour in oil (5.5l.). Antifreeze has not been poured yet.
They started to wind up. Candles were not connected. At first, the engine sneezed. Then it wound up. Strong blows were heard. A friend said it was the presence of air in the fuel system. When the gas was given a little, the air came out and the engine began to work more stably. Then antifreeze was poured (9.5 l.). They turned on the engine. Adjusted early late ignition. The typewriter just whispered.
I drove 700 km. The oil is normal. No where or anything is leaking yet.
Who will have any questions, ask. I will try to answer. See you.

This manual describes in detail the procedure for performing such work as dismantling the power unit from the vehicle and overhauling the cylinder head, cylinder block / crankshaft housing and other engine parts.

Advice is given on the preparation and organization of work on overhaul and the purchase of spare parts, procedures for removal, inspection of technical condition, repair and installation of engine components and parts are described in detail.

From the next section onwards, the description is based on the assumption that the engine has been removed from the vehicle. A description of the types of repairs without removing the engine from the car, as well as the procedure for removing and installing external units and engine assemblies required for overhaul are given in the relevant sections.

At the beginning of this subsection, all the regulatory data necessary for checking the technical condition and overhaul, the procedures of which are described below, are given.

Nissan (Ad, Avenir, Bluebird / Sylphy, Expert, Primera / Camino, Sunny, Tino, Wingroad were installed) petrol four-cylinder engines: QG13DE 1.3 l (1295 cc), QG15DE / Lean Burn 1.5 l (1497 cc) and QG18DE / Lean Burn / QG18DD Neo Di 1.8 l (1769 cm³) Manual for construction, operation, maintenance and repair. Nissan Primera, Tino and other models with QG engines from 1997