DIY Subaru engine overhaul

How is it necessary to overhaul the entire engine on a Subaru Legacy car. First of all, I must say that in this case, the video, which is presented below, acts as an excellent assistant and visual aid. This video describes in detail and very vividly the overhaul of the engine of the Subaru Legacy car.

Here you can see how the preparation is carried out, as well as the grinding of all valves, how it is necessary to assemble the intake manifold, how to prepare for the assembly of the entire engine, and what kind of repair kits are needed in this case.

In addition, the video perfectly shows the process of installing the engine, as well as many other nuances. All owners of this machine should watch this video. In addition, this video will help car owners save significant amounts of money on overhauling the entire engine. This visual guide will help you make repairs yourself, without much effort.

In this case, you just need to carefully watch the video. If necessary, it can be viewed several times. And after that you can start working - everything will go smoothly, be sure of this.

Why it is necessary to repair the Subaru engine with us:

• Subaru engine repair experience - 8 years!
• We have all the necessary technical documentation for the repair
• Vast experience in diagnosing Subaru engine problems
• A wide range of services for engine revision and repair
• Its precise measuring equipment
• Own machinery park for repairing engine parts

Subaru engine overhaul

The main work carried out on the repair of the Subaru engine:

• Diagnostics of the condition of the engine (ICE)
• Replacing defective engine parts
• Replacing the engine
• Engine overhaul
• Replacing cylinder head gaskets (cylinder heads)

We carry out a full cycle Subaru engine overhaul: diagnostics, removal and installation, repair, check and adjustment of an already repaired engine (ICE). Having our own machine park and accurate measuring equipment for repairing engine parts allows us to do such repairs with high quality and in a short time.

We specialize in the repair of SUBARU engines
Sign up and come to our workshop for repairs.
Our phone number +7 (495) 545-78-59 in Moscow

You can purchase any spare parts necessary for repairing a Subaru engine from us - crankshaft, liners, pistons, gasket sets. We always have the main items in stock.

Photos of the work performed during the repair of Subaru engines in our service center you can look at the links below.

- Washing of all engine parts
- Block boring (including twisted and with a false head)
- Block repair - straightening of the crankshaft bed (in case of liner or damage to the main bearings)
- Measurement of clearances in the main and connecting rod journals (including with a plastigage and an internal gauge)
- Modification of the Subaru Ej257 and EJ207 block - Impreza STI / Ej255 and EJ205 - Impreza WRX, Forester XT, Legacy GT
- - Installation of the "plate" - conversion of the block into a closed type (relevant for 2.5L engines)
- - Installation of dry-type liners with increased wall thickness (for high power / pressures)
- - Installation of wet-type sleeves (including Darton)
- Complex repair of the cylinder head of the cylinder head
- Repair / replacement of cylinder head seats - restoration of chamfer (including any profile on a CNC machine)
- Grinding valve chamfers
- Restoration of the plane of the cylinder head (grinding)
- Setting the thermal clearance of valves (including non-drain shafts)
- Porting of cylinder head channels
- Finalization of the cylinder head for sports camshafts
- Measurement of combustion chamber volumes and piston underflow
- Calculation of the compression ratio and its change for the configuration of the internal combustion engine

How I capitalized my EJ25D on the Legacy Grand Wagon 95g

almost finished kapitalku, there was only a little left, put the belt, the intake manifold and stick the darling in place, it was growing.

And it all started with. shopping 🙂 I never thought that someday I would make a major overhaul on my own. but little by little I came to this, tk. I realized that half measures cannot be avoided here.

Well, there was a lyrical otsupleniya.

I removed the engine myself, in principle there is nothing complicated. used a chain hoist suspended from the ceiling. The most crap is to wash it. Therefore, before taking up the capital, first thoroughly wash it by car, then when they have already removed it, take their time to disassemble it, and once again wash it in those places where they did not get it for the first time. I first threw off the heads and the intake manifold, then I took them to the sink. the whole dvigun was lost with mud. beforehand it was necessary to plug up and coat with oil all the holes through which water and dirt could get inside.

in general, from the very beginning, there was an idea to make a photo report on this matter, but then due to lack of time and just laziness, this idea receded into the background.

okay, that's all for today. does it make sense to write further, will my attempts be useful and interesting to anyone?

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Well, I haven’t shoved the engine back yet, so I’ll still click the main points today. Well, about the plugs that I’ll tell you almost to tears and draw what I did.

The main task was to maximize the budget, since fucking crizis in the yard, well, leaving the children and his wife hungry would be blasphemy 🙂

Kapitalka is certainly not entirely honest, because it did not change the piston, therefore did not bore the engine, did not change the crankshaft liners. According to my preliminary research, in general, it was confirmed in the future, there was no need for this.

EJ25 DOHC engine, 4 camshafts.

What happened before the start of work?
The oil ate notably, the engine was constantly wet from below, sinned on the root oil seal, the frontal ones had already been seen before, they were ok, but flowed from under the valve cover, somewhere in the back (root), and possibly from the junction of the pallet with the block, there were not enough bolts and somehow the lid was generally questionable), there were no problems with knocks and other incomprehensibility there, constant overheating and squeezing out of the coolant, its smell and an oily film in the expansion tank), the ignition of the devil worked as it did, the power appeared or disappeared, apparently due to overheating local and offset ignition, because then revealed a large backlash of the timing gear on the crankshaft.

Respect guys with SD-Parts, prices for some artifacts were much nicer than on existential. 🙂

Now there will be an excuse to calculate the costs of spare parts and other small things, before that there was a lack of time, just realizing that something needed to be found and money was bought.

So: Let's start with the fact that I made this repair myself, in my garage. I decided on it due to the fact that it began to infuriate the sound like a diesel engine and wasted oil like a KAMAZ.

What do we need for renovation:
1. Keys.
a) A set of caps and carob from 10-22
b) A set of heads from 10-22
c) The heads are elongated 12, 15. (by 15 this is for unscrewing the exhaust manifold, if anyone has other nuts on it, then it is not needed). At 12 it will be necessary to redo it, tk. they will unscrew the block itself, if necessary. It must be lengthened by about 3-4cm. Take 12-edged heads, otherwise do not unscrew anything.
d) Torque wrench from 5-80 N / m (I bought a fool expensive, the usual indicator is enough for 600r. There from 0-240. See for yourself what you want, but I'll say right away that modern keys go from 5-25 and 45-210, it is difficult to find an intermediate one, but it is needed.
e) A holder for rings, without it it is very difficult to shove the pistons!
f) Hexagon 14 (for unscrewing the technological holes in order to remove the fingers)
g) Impact screwdriver (for unscrewing the technological holes in order to remove the finger)
The rest is due to the circumstances.

It's not all that simple, we can safely buy engine repair gasket kit... (The kit is cheaper than buying them separately) I say right away, buy only the original. there are more of them and of better quality. Cost from 9-12tr. This includes valve cover gaskets, valve cover bolt gaskets, oil caps (more carefully when installing, they are inlet and outlet.the difference in color and on the upper part of the letter: IN-inlet, EX-outlet) pump gasket (It is advisable to change the pump too, so that then do not climb, the price of 1.5tr is not the original). Timing roller kit and timing itself, Block head bolt kit (there are 12 of them, the price is 6.5tr. This is at your discretion. I changed it, because the gaskets were snotty. The middle bolts differ from the extreme size of the washer, the main thing is not to mix it up during installation, otherwise you will not put the camshaft cover, I undermined it in the end file.), The bolts of the block itself(At the discretion, I changed those that are inside the block, there are 6 of them at 320r apiece, They come with special washers, in these washers inside the rubber bands. Buy only the bolts, the washers themselves are included in the set of gaskets. There are 6 of them.)
We buy the rest at opening and measurements.
Pay attention. when assembling the engine, it is very important to tighten the bolts with the same force as stated in the manual (operating instructions)

So, before removing the engine, I advise you to get to the service and measure the compression, oil pressure (it is necessary to know the condition of the liners) and let the refrigerant off the air conditioner.

We proceed to dismantle the internal combustion engine.
We drain all liquids, then remove all attachments (battery, all tanks, condo, starter, generator, power steering (we just unscrew it and put it aside. Hoses do not need to be unscrewed), all radiators (I advise you to remove it first, it will be easier to remove the rest) . Disconnect the wiring and hoses suitable for the engine. Remove the intake manifold as a whole, together with pipes and nozzles, it will be easier!
In short, we free the entire block to remove it from the engine compartment. It is not necessary to remove the valve covers, God forbid, when removing something, touch them without them. Disassemble the motor itself completely removed from the machine.
Then we unscrew the flywheel bolts and the flywheel itself (this is on machines, I don’t know on mechanics, maybe the same thing) through the technological holes, you will see for yourself, there are 4 of them. are located in the back of the block on top, in short, you will see, figure it out. Then we climb down into the pit or from the lift, unscrew the exhaust manifold, and the engine itself from the box two bolts, one on each side (bottom) and two on the left side (top) There are 5 of them in total, along with a long one from the starter. The last one is unscrewing the internal combustion engine pillows from the frame (two cakes) .We jack up the box and
We take out the engine! / p>

In general, then everything is simple, we disassemble the engines and, most importantly, all the bolts, bolt sets into separate bags and sign which one from where, This is very important, the flood as a repair is a long matter and you will forget what and from where, there is no need to hope for memory. With the wiring, everything is simple, you can mark with a marker which plug from where (mom and dad in one number or letter), and so everything is clear what is going where, and even better, the entire disassembly process can be photographed in order to assemble it correctly later. When connecting, I forgot to connect the terminal to the starter, and I was stupid thinking why it wasn’t twisting.

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On this page we will demonstrate engine repair and capitalization in Subaru Legacy B4.If you have it broken and you want to try to repair it, then our video tip can probably help. What subtleties can be encountered during its bulkhead?