Do-it-yourself overhaul of the VAZ 21083 engine

In detail: do-it-yourself overhaul of a VAZ 21083 engine from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

In one of the previous articles, we covered in detail the "typical" overhaul of the Oka engine. In that report, we talked about ways to increase engine life, borrowed from our experience with engine tuning, which we use for standard overhauls.

In this article, we would like to talk about the overhaul of an eight-valve engine VAZ 21083 car VAZ 2109... Let us remind you once again that tuning is not always advisable or is necessary for the client - often the budget is limited, and the resource of the serial engine is exhausted - a high-quality overhaul without large investments is required. We offer different options for repairing or tuning the engine, and the client selects the most convenient for himself in terms of engine power or financial costs.

It is likely that in the future we will rarely return to the topic of "typical overhaul", but I would like to say that this article is a sample our work, it describes our principles of repair. Of course, for each specific engine, the list of replaced parts and work performed will differ, but the difference is not that big.

The work in question can be offered to the attention of customers who have in use any front-wheel drive VAZ car with an eight-valve engine. This is the Samar family, "ten", all Kalina and Priory, with 8 valves.

It is important that we provide a written guarantee for an engine after a major overhaul - 6 months, or 20 thousand km of run... This guarantee is a guarantee of great responsibility when assembling the engine and selecting components. We understand perfectly well that a client, especially one who is temporarily without a car, should not be involved in the search and purchase of spare parts for repair, he does not have the experience in choosing spare parts that we have. Therefore, our principle is that we buy spare parts ourselves, since we know where to find a factory oil seal, and not a cooperative one, we know which imported spare parts can be supplied and which cannot (the example with Elring and Reinz oil seals is indicative). We consider this approach to be the most correct.

Video (click to play).

Let's take a look at the client machine. This is a VAZ 2109, assembled by RosLada, with a VAZ engine with a working volume of 1.5 liters. Injector with one lambda probe, without catalytic converter and camshaft sensor. Car mileage - 203 thousand kilometers, without engine repairs! The indications for repair are low compression in the 2nd cylinder, and breakage of the timing belt teeth on the track. We accept a car for repair only after washing the body and engine compartment.

Remove the head assembly with manifolds. The gas joint gasket had long been opened and let through the exhaust gases (blackness is visible at the junction and surrounding details), which gave an increased engine noise.

The gasket under the head is “tired” - we found a breakdown of the gasket to the outside (near the generator), which is why the joint under the head was constantly sweating on the block. The photo below shows the punched edge - we specially raised the edge of the gasket for clarity. Otherwise, the condition of the gasket leaves much to be desired - multiple under-film corrosion of the block under the gasket has noticeably eaten away the plane.
Cylinders are worn out, pistons are loose.

Gasoline engine on the "eight"

The appearance of the VAZ 21083 gasoline engine is directly related to the low quality of domestic rubber products. The fact is that at the very beginning of production, the VAZ 2108 engine was installed on the Lada Samara family cars, the first domestic power unit designed specifically for transverse placement under the hood of a front-wheel drive car.

However, the VAZ 2108 engine had an unpleasant feature common to foreign engines with a timing belt drive. When the timing belt breaks, the engine pistons met with the cylinder head valves, and the latter necessarily bent, which led to expensive repairs to the VAZ 2108 engine.On foreign cars, such a breakdown happened extremely rarely due to the high reliability of the timing belts. However, in the first Samaras, the breakage of a low-quality belt was such a frequent occurrence that it was necessary to urgently refine the engine with the help of specialists from German automakers. As a result, a new engine appeared, which became the progenitor of a whole family of power units. Assembling a VAZ 21083 engine is not a difficult task; it can be done without the help of specialists.

Overhaul of a VAZ 21083 engine usually consists of disassembling the unit, troubleshooting parts, boring the crankshaft and cylinders, and assembling the motor. Dismantling the engine is a simple matter, troubleshooting and boring are also simple procedures. But it is necessary to assemble the motor extremely carefully, carefully following the instructions.

Let's start by installing the crankshaft in the cylinder block. Remember: the numbers of cylinders and main bearings are counted from right to left in the direction of the car. That is, 1 cylinder is located near the pump and timing drive, and 4 - near the clutch and gearbox.

The lubrication system of the 21083 engine consists of an oil pump, an oil receiver, a filter and channels. After disassembling the engine, all channels must be flushed with solvent and blown out with compressed air. The oil pump should be installed together with the crankshaft oil seals, and the oil receiver after the installation of the ShPG and the flywheel.

The procedure for installing oil seals and pump.

Using a thick copper or brass spacer and a hammer, we drive the rear oil seal into the holder to the end.
With lithol or other grease, glue the gasket to the other side of the holder.
Lubricate the inner edge of the rear oil seal and the crankshaft flange with engine oil.
We put the gland assembly with the holder onto the flange, for this we carefully tuck the inner edge of the gland onto the flange using a sharp and soft wooden stick.

Replacing the oil seal in the oil pump

After that, we slowly move the holder along the flange to the cylinder block itself, grab it with bolts and align it so that its edge completely coincides with the edge of the block. Only after that do we tighten all the bolts completely.
As well as the rear, we drive the front crankshaft oil seal into the hole of the oil pump.
Lubricate the inner edge of the oil seal and pump gears with oil. For uniform lubrication, we scroll the gears with our finger.
We glue the gasket to the oil pump with lithol or any other grease.
We turn the drive gear so that the projections on it coincide with the cuts on the front of the crankshaft.
We put the oil pump on the shaft, tuck the lip of the oil seal onto the crankshaft neck with a sharp soft wooden stick.
Just like the holder, we move the oil pump to the block itself, grab it with bolts, level the edges and tighten the bolts completely.

Back to the table of contents

The connecting rod-piston group (SHPG) must be installed assembled. It is not recommended to press the piston pin into the connecting rod head without special tools. It is better to entrust this procedure to professionals.

To install the ShPG, you need a steel mandrel in the shape of a ring. The height of the ring is 2-3 cm, the diameter of the hole is slightly larger than the diameter of the cylinder. It is necessary to mount the pistons in such a way that the arrow on their bottom (the part adjacent to the valves) is turned towards the oil pump. The connecting rod and piston number must match the cylinder number. Before installation, you need to open the locks of the oil scraper and compression rings at an angle of 120 degrees.

We turn over the block.
We wipe the cylinder walls and crankshaft connecting rod journals with a dry cloth.
Thoroughly lubricate the cylinder walls, piston side surfaces and the inner part of the mandrel with oil.
We put the mandrel on the cylinder and insert the piston assembly with the connecting rod through it. We push the piston into the cylinder using a round wooden stick (hammer handle).
We put the liner in the connecting rod cover, lubricate it with oil.
We lay the block on its side and install the connecting rod cover so that the cylinder number on it and on the connecting rod is on the same side. We grab the cover with nuts.
In the same way, we mount the rest of the pistons, complete with connecting rods. After that, we turn the cylinder block upside down and tighten all 8 nuts securing the connecting rod caps.

If you don't have a mandrel, you can cut one yourself from a piece of thick-walled steel pipe.It is important to install the flywheel so that the notch on it is located against the connecting rod cover 4, and the ring gear is adjacent to the clutch.

Apply a thin layer of auto-sealant to the crankshaft bolts.

We put the flywheel and its washer on the shaft and tighten the bolts that secure it until it stops.

That's it, the flywheel is installed. We mount the oil receiver and the engine crankcase.

We change the oil receiver seal ring.
Lubricate the new ring with oil.
We put the oil receiver in place and bolt it to the oil pump.
We fasten part 2 with bolts to the second main bearing.
We tighten the bolts.

We cut off the excess parts of the gaskets of the oil seal holder and the oil pump.
Apply grease to the lower edges of the block and glue the crankcase gasket.
We carefully put the crankcase in place so as not to move the gasket.
We grab the crankcase with bolts around the perimeter.
Tighten all the bolts in turn.

Now you can take a break, as the assembly is almost complete. And after the break, you need to return the pump to its place.

We put a gasket on the pump and lubricate it with lithol or other grease.
We install the pump with the marking up and fasten the part to the block with 2 bolts.

That's it, the cylinder block is assembled. After that, you need to install the head, clutch, pulleys, timing covers, generator and other attachments on it.

Above are videos on dismantling and assembling the engine, which should be studied before work.

In the operation of any car, there comes a time when it is necessary to overhaul the engine. Vaz 2108 and the entire family of these motors have a resource of up to 250,000 km. But, as practice shows, they usually take care of no more than 200,000 km. So, what can be the reasons for the failure, as well as how to carry out a major overhaul with your own hands.

The reasons for the overhaul of VAZ 2108-2115 engines are quite simple and almost do not differ from the rest of the engines of other cars. The only advantage of Lada is that the power units are easily diagnosed. So, let's consider the main reasons that can serve as the reason that the motor needs "capital":
• Emulsion in the pallet.
• With good fuel and ignition, the car "eats" too much gasoline.
• Increased oil consumption.
• There are extraneous noises in the power unit itself and the block head.
• The engine does not start well at start. This is due to the cranking of the crankshaft.
• Breakdowns on gaskets.
• Understated compression.
• Other reasons.
All these reasons can serve as the fact that the engine needs to be repaired. Some of the processes can be carried out in the garage, but for some you will have to contact a specialized station.

Basically, the same parts will be needed for an engine overhaul. Consider the main spare parts that change during the repair and restoration work of the 2108 motor:
1. Repair kit for engine gaskets.
2. Oil and oil filter.
3. Inserts connecting rod and root, produced by AvtoVAZ. The repair size is determined after diagnosing the crankshaft.
4. Camshaft.
5. Timing kit (belt + roller).
6.Generator belt.
7. Carburetor repair kit.
8. Valves, guide bushings, seats, valve seals.
9. Piston kit (piston, compression rings, pins).
10. Connecting rod bushings (repair size).
11. Spark plugs and high voltage wires.
These are the main parts that may be needed in order to overhaul an engine of the VAZ 2108 family.

Before proceeding with the assembly, it is necessary to perform a number of operations that cannot be performed in the garage. To do this, you will have to contact a car service that deals with boring and honing of the cylinder block, as well as the bulkhead of the block head.
So let's start with the cylinder head:
1. The head of the block is washed with hot kerosene. It cleans up dirt and shavings perfectly.
2. Disassembly of the head is as follows.
3. With the help of a special device, we remove the valve crackers, plates, inner and outer springs.

4. Remove the camshaft with the housing. After that, we unscrew the studs.

5. We take out the glasses and adjusting washers.

6. Dismantle the camshaft oil seal.

8. Next, it is necessary to knock out the seats and guide bushings.
9. Grinding of the plane is carried out using a special machine.
10. We make a sweep of the guide bushings for the new valves.
11. Grinding of the valve chamfers and fitting of the seats are carried out simultaneously.
12. Next, the assembly is carried out in the reverse order.

When the cylinder head has been repaired, you can start boring the engine and assembling.
The cylinder block is bored for a new piston group on a special machine.

The average cost of such an operation is about 2,000 rubles. Also, in parallel, the pistons are adjusted by weight, as well as the chamfer adjustment.
If necessary, grind the surface of the cylinder block. This is done using a special flat grinding machine. Also, it is necessary to fit the size of the crankshaft that is being machined. The most common sizes for the VAZ 2108 are 0.25, 0.5, 0.75. Above these indicators, it is not worth boring to / shaft, because at any moment, it may lose its hardness and then trouble in the form of a rupture may occur, which will entail the replacement of the power unit.
When the crankshaft and block head are repaired, you can start assembling. It is carried out in the reverse order from disassembly. But recall the sequence:
1. Installation of the piston group.
2. Laying the crankshaft.
3. Installing bushings and fixing the crankshaft.
4. Assembling the oil pump and oil scraper.
5. Fixing the pallet.
6. Installation of pulleys.
7. Installation of the cylinder head.
8. Installing the valve cover.
As mentioned earlier, the assembly is carried out back to disassembly.

Running-in becomes an important stage in the overhaul of the engine. This procedure is not complicated, and, as it were, serves as a diagnosis and control of the correct assembly. So, at engine repair shops, this is done at a special stand. But, if repairs are carried out by hand, then it is necessary to install the motor on the car. The assembly sequence is the reverse of disassembly.
When everything is secured and installed, it is necessary to fill in oil, as well as pump the fuel. It is recommended, along the way with a major overhaul of the engine, to sort out the carburetor. Also, new spark plugs and high voltage wires must be installed.
If the engine starts the first time, then you need to look for a leak, from under the gaskets, and also pay attention to the sounds. If there is no extraneous noise, then everything is done, right. If so, you will have to disassemble it and fix the malfunction until it works like new.

Thus, it can be seen that the overhaul of the engine of the VAZ 2108 family can really be carried out in the garage. Of course, some operations will have to be done at a car service using special equipment, but everything else can be done by hand.

Installing the engine on a VAZ 2108 car

For any car model, the main unit is its engine. Serviceability and reliability in the operation of which plays a large role in the operation of transport.
Therefore, a very urgent issue is a high-quality repair of the unit with your own hands, without the participation of unauthorized persons. Before starting engine repairs on a VAZ 2108, the masters advise you to familiarize yourself with the technology of its assembly and disassembly, the principle of operation, and determine the parts most worn out during the movement of the machine.

A compact, small-sized engine in a front-wheel drive VAZ 2108 is located transversely in the engine compartment. The gearbox is also located here, which simplifies access to the repair of the main components of the car.
Criteria by which motor malfunctions are determined:

The engine won't start.
It works unstable, it can stall at idle speed.
No full power when working.
A knock is heard from bearings located on the crankshaft.
With a sharp opening of the throttle valves, the knock of the connecting rod bearings is heard at idle speed of the engine.
The appearance of "beating" of the piston in the cylinder, which is accompanied by a muffled piston clatter.
Exhaust and intake valves are knocking.
The oil pressure is insufficient when idling.
High oil consumption.
Increased fuel consumption.
The engine gets very hot.
The coolant level in the expansion tank drops rapidly.

In the presence of any malfunction, the VAZ 2108 engine requires repair - periodic or major.

Continuous maintenance of the engine consists in maintaining all its assemblies and parts in good condition. This will postpone the overhaul of the engine for the VAZ 21083, which means it will reduce the cost of operating the car.
These include:

Timely replacement of filters.
Change of oil.
Checking the pressure in the cylinders will give an idea of the condition of the piston system
Make sure that the coolant is at the correct level.

Unstable operation of the engine, the occurrence of extraneous noise, tapping, high fuel consumption, and a decrease in power may indicate the need for an overhaul of the engine. On the VAZ 2108, overhaul of the engine includes the restoration of the technical characteristics of the unit to the indicators indicated by the operating instructions.
Overhaul of the VAZ 2108 engine is performed after removal from the car and complete disassembly of the unit.

The battery is removed.
Oil and coolant are drained from the system from the crankcase.

Advice: The engine must be removed together with the gearbox. It must be lowered down from the engine compartment. It is more convenient to carry out work on a lift.

Slinging of the engine of the car VAZ 2108

The nuts securing the rear engine mount to the body are unscrewed.
Raising the motor slightly, remove the bolt holding the right front support of the unit.
The left front support is released in the same way.
The engine is lowered onto the stands, the vehicle is raised and the engine is pulled out from under it.

Tip: Before lowering the engine, be sure to disconnect all wires and hoses from the engine.

Overhaul of the VAZ 21083 engine begins with its disassembly and drawing up a defective statement. After a thorough examination of all parts, measurements of the dimensions of the mating parts, the stages of repair and its cost are determined.
Parts that can be repaired are subject to restoration, those that have become unusable are replaced with new ones. According to the rules for the VAZ 2108, overhaul is carried out after 150,000 kilometers of the car's mileage.
The repair begins with replacing the piston rings and pistons, boring the cylinder block. The crankshaft journal is ground.
A visual inspection of the starter, generator, ignition distributor is carried out. In the cooling system, the hoses, thermostat, drive belts and pump are changed. The radiator is washed and cleaned.

Carbon deposits are cleared on the cylinder block along the edges of the beds, oil deposits are removed in the grooves.

The main bearing shells, pre-lubricated with engine oil, are installed in the block bed. The locking antennae of the latter should go into the grooves.

The crankshaft is installed in the cylinder block.

The thrust half rings are lubricated with engine oil.

On the front side of the bed, a white semi-ring (steel-aluminum) is installed, on the opposite side a cermet (yellow) one.

The half rings are turned in such a way that their ends are flush with the ends of the bed.

The liners are inserted according to the marks in the bearing caps. (Marks are made when disassembling the engine). The liners are lubricated with engine oil. It is necessary to ensure that the antennae for fixing the inserts enter the grooves located on the covers.

They are installed according to the marks of the main bearing caps. The marks are applied accordingly with the cylinder numbers. The fifth and second covers have two marks each.

Installing the main bearing caps

The threads and ends of the heads of the fastening bolts are lubricated with engine oil.

The bolts are tightened with a certain torque: first the third cover, then the second, fourth, first and fifth. After the bolts have been tightened three turns, the crankshaft turns. Its rotation should be light without jamming.

The oil pump gasket is "glued" to the block, for which it is better to lubricate it with a small layer of grease, the excess of which is removed.

The oil pump is replaced and bolted in place.

The rear oil seal holder is installed in place.

The connecting rod is inserted into the piston in accordance with the previously made marks. In this case, the part number on the connecting rod must be facing away from the tide of the piston present on the boss.

Using a special tool, the piston pin is pressed in. For this, the upper connecting rod head is heated to 240 ° C. The connecting rod is clamped in a vice, the piston is installed on it so that the holes for the finger coincide.
Correct installation of the piston pin is ensured by pressing the boss in the direction of pressing against the upper connecting rod head.

After cooling, the piston pin is lubricated through the holes located in the piston bosses.

Retaining rings are fitted on both sides of the piston pin.

Advice: Care must be taken to ensure that the rings are correctly positioned in the piston grooves.How to correctly perform engine overhaul on a VAZ 2108 can be seen in the video.Do-it-yourself overhaul of the VAZ 21083 engine has been completed. Installation of the assembly on the machine is carried out in the reverse order of its removal.Tip: Tighten the bolts of the front suspension and engine mountings after the vehicle is placed on the floor.

The front wheel drive is connected to the transmission after replacing the lock rings on the splined shanks located on the inner pivots. Do not fit previously used circlips.
Otherwise, while driving, the car may disconnect the front wheel drive from the gearbox.

Liquid, oil in the gearbox and crankcase are poured into the engine cooling system.

After installing a VAZ 21083 engine on a car, the repair ends with adjusting the throttle and choke valves, the carburetor, clutch drive, camber and toe-in of the front wheels.

The engine is started and checked for oil, coolant and fuel leaks. The oil pressure is checked.

By ear, engine operation should be smooth, without extraneous noise and knocking.

On our site you can find a lot more material on car repair and maintenance.

Members
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City: Saint Petersburg

The patient is 12 years old, mileage 75,000 (for certain - the car is in the same hands all this time).

Why it was useful to disassemble - the sounds made by the engine frightened. In addition, oil was driven out of the crankcase ventilation with terrible force - I removed the air filter cover - everything was in the oil, there was a puddle in the “saucepan”, with the engine running, a column of gases and oil right up to the hood.Where I looked before is a separate question, now it's not about him. The car was considered a suicide bomber, but now there is a need for resuscitation. I scattered the engine, there were various questions. For convenience, I will divide it into groups. I apologize that everything is in one topic, but this is probably better than many different ones. At least the picture in the complex will be visible.

Yes, I'm not an expert. I have been repairing cars on my own for 10 years, but mostly chassis, electrics, attachments. I climb into the engine itself for the first time. And one more thing: apart from a caliper, there are no measuring instruments, and so are the skills to use them. I want to do it normally, not for sale.

Pieces of bridges between the rings are broken on two pistons. On the mirrors of the cylinders, respectively, seizure. Obviously, the block is sharpened, and it is also good, if not immediately through the size. I think to put a piston from 2110, so as not to bother with pressing fingers on a hot one.

Now the cylinders are of four classes: A, B, E, B. What happens after boring? The breakdown by class will still be preserved, or will they all be the same size and will be reduced to the same class? I just don't know how it is organized. Will the size of each cylinder increase by exactly 0.4 of the current one, or will it somehow be reduced to one diameter? Will it be possible to buy, say, a Kostroma set of pistons for the first overhaul size of class B (numbers and classes are conditional), or is the selection of each piston individually inevitable? I know that they should still be of the same weight class.

By the way, are the rings also different in size and grade?

2. Crankshaft and connecting rods. Visually, I don't see any scuffing marks on the necks. But the axial play of the knee is about 1 mm. (obviously not 0.6-0.26, allowed by the primer).
Is the axial play of the crankshaft treated only by replacing two persistent half rings? According to the ABC book, they come in nominal size and size increased by 0.127 - is that correct? How to proceed - to select experimentally?

As for the connecting rod and main journals. Apparently, the knee also needs to be taken to the specialists, since I have nothing to measure with. At the same time, the curvature will be checked. How is the selection of earbuds carried out? If, say, the connecting rod and main journals are in tolerance, just put new nominal bushings (connecting rods are still under replacement, if you go to parts 2110)? And if, say, grind by 0.25, then the repair liners by 0.25, no fancy? Or is it more complicated?

3. cylinder head and camshaft. Last winter, the valves were changed (not by me), but they did not rub in. They did nothing with the head at all - they just replaced the valves and changed the gasket. Now the head, of course, is removed, the camshaft too. The valves are still dry. On the first camshaft bed, on the cover and on the camshaft itself, there is an annular seizure. As if a grain of sand had hit, and gnawed out a groove. Unfortunately, now I can not insert a photo - only in the evening. Is it somehow to be treated, or is it easier to buy a new head and switchgear right away?

There are still questions about the cylinder head, but I will ask them after a decision is made on the issue of buying a new / repairing an old one, so as not to paint all the possible options.

Anticipating possible questions: on the one hand, I want to understand the issue myself as much as possible, so the option of taking the entire engine to the specialists and picking up the power supply does not suit me - I have to feel and understand everything myself. On the other hand, it is clear that for measurements (since, as already mentioned, there is not only the skill of using an indicator, bore gauge, micrometer and prisms, but also of them) and boring, grinding, milling, it will inevitably have to be turned to them. Well, plus the lack of time and limited funds. As a result of all these factors, a certain line of behavior should be built.

Gasoline engines with four cylinders with 2 valves each were installed on the VAZ 21083. carburetor. The order of operation of the cylinders: 1-3-4-2.

The power unit is secured in the engine compartment on three elastic rubber-metal mountings.

We start repairing the VAZ 21083 engine with dismantling the engine from the car:

1.Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the crankcase protection.

2. We remove the front exhaust pipe.

3.We remove the air filter.

4. Remove the brake vacuum hose by loosening the clamp.

5. Unscrew the bolt and remove the ground wire from the clutch housing.

6. Remove the hoses from the thermostat by loosening the clamps.

7. Remove the high-voltage wire.

8. Unscrew the spring clip with a screwdriver and remove the block with low-voltage wires.

9. Remove the fuel hose from the pump by loosening the clamp.

10. Release the nuts on the end of the clutch release cable.

11. Remove the cable end from the PVA lever.

12. Remove the block with the wiring from the starter.

13. Unscrew the nut and remove the wire from the TRS contact bolt.

14. Remove the block with the wiring from the generator.

15. Remove the wires from the generator terminal by loosening the nut.

16. Remove the block from the carburetor wiring.

17. Disconnect the fuel return hose from the carburetor by loosening the clamp.

18. Remove the bolt that secures the choke rod.

19. Remove the cable by unscrewing the bolt that secures the choke rod.

20. Disengage the spring clip.

21. Remove the throttle valve actuator return spring.

22. Disconnect the accelerator cable.

23. Unscrew the nut and disconnect the accelerator cable bracket from the valve cover.

24. Remove the block with the wiring from the EPHH.

25. Remove the wire from the DTOKH.

26. Disconnect the wire from the oil pressure sensor.

27. Loosen the clamp and disconnect the heater supply hose.

28. Remove the heater outlet hose by loosening the clamp tightening.

29. Remove the gear change drive rod by loosening the clamp tightening.

30. Disconnect the cable from the speedometer drive by unscrewing the fastening nut.

31. Remove the block with the wiring from the reverse sensor on the checkpoint.

32. Unscrew the tightening of the nuts securing the left and right braces to the suspension arms.

33. Remove the 3 bolts that secure the brace to the body and separate the left and right braces so that they do not interfere with the engine dismantling.

34. Push out the cotter pin of the nut securing the ball joint of the steering link to the swivel arm.

35. Unscrew the nut that secures the ball joint of the steering link.

36. Using a special puller, press the ball joint pin out of the rack.

37. Remove the suspension arm ball joint by unscrewing 2 bolts.

38. Remove the shank of one of the inner drive shafts from the gearbox using a pry bar.

39. To prevent the half-axle gear from turning, insert an anti-change instead. Remove the second cv joint using the first example.

40. Remove the clutch housing shield, unscrew 3 bolts.

41. Loosen the 3 bolts and nuts securing the clutch housing to the BC.

42. Hook the power unit to the eyelets and tension the hoist cables.

43. Remove the 2 nuts that secure the rear engine mounts to the body.

44. Unscrew the nut, slightly raise the power unit and remove the bolt of the right front engine support.

45. Unscrew the nut and take out the bolt of the left front engine support.

46. Place the engine on stands, raise the car and remove the power unit from under it.

We continue to repair the VAZ 21083 engine by removing the pallet, oil pump, flywheel, oil seal cover. Then they unscrewed the rods and took them out with the pots up, and disconnected the knee.

We knock out the fingers from the pistons and take the cylinder head to the turner for grinding.

The cylinder head will be lavished on you in a couple of hours.

We press the fingers into new pots, by heating the connecting rod neck in oil and put on the rings.

The pistons in the cylinder head can be installed without additional tools, it is enough to have 2 flat screwdrivers and 4 hands.

We collect the engine and go to a service station to pull the connecting rod and main caps of the dynamo with a wrench with the required tightening torques.

At the same time, we change the pushers in the main cylinder block and oil seals. In the same place, we adjust the thermal gap.

We assemble the engine, in the reverse order of installation.

This completes the repair of the VAZ 21083 engine.

In previous articles, he explained how you can remove the engine from the VAZ 2109 without removing the gearbox and disassemble it yourself at home.Now I will explain how to assemble it.

The engine was disassembled for repair, the reason for the repair, the VAZ 21083 engine was eating oil. After disassembly, it turned out that the oil consumption was due to the large wear of the piston group, the block was bored under the pistons of the first repair 82.4. The crankshaft turned out to be completely new, it was not polished, only the liners were replaced with new ones. Also lapping the valve and replaced the valve seals, the lapping of the head is described in the article Lapping the valves of the VAZ-2108 head to 15

The engine begins to be assembled with the installation of the main bearings and the crankshaft. Now you come across liners in different configurations, in the photo the liners are not very good configuration, since there are no holes on the liner for the central neck of the crankshaft, and since this neck is without a through hole, there will be oil starvation in the lower liner and this leads to faster wear of the crankshaft neck ... Therefore, take the time to drill a couple of holes as shown in the photo below.

Photo. Correct installation of liners in the VAZ 21083 engine block.

Before installing the liners in bed, carefully wipe the beds with a rag so that nothing gets under the liner, debris under the liner can lead to jamming of the crankshaft and poor heat transfer from the liner to the engine block. Install the half rings immediately as shown in the figure, lubricate the inserts with oil, lubricate the half rings inside with oil, then they will not fall out of their places.

Photo. The arrow shows the persistent half rings of the VAZ 21083 engine

After installing the crankshaft in the block, be sure to check the longitudinal movement of the crankshaft, this can be done with a screwdriver as shown in the photo below, insert it from different sides, if there is a movement of the crankshaft, then repair half rings are needed. Here you can already select one repair and another standard, or slightly grind off a half-ring on a stone or sandpaper spread on a flat surface. Try to ensure that there is no longitudinal movement of the crankshaft, if there is a longitudinal movement, the half rings may fall out when the engine is running.

Photo. Checking the longitudinal movement of the crankshaft.

Now you need to put the crankshaft cushions in place, each cushion must return to its place, you cannot put a cushion from another engine, since it will be slightly different in the gap and can either clamp or give slack. The photo below shows how to properly install the pillow, pay attention to the insert lock to be placed against the lock of another insert, the photo shows the installation of the third pillow with drilled holes. It doesn't matter if the holes were drilled beautifully or not, it is important that oil will be supplied through them to the crankshaft journal.

Photo. Correct installation of the crankshaft pad.

Immediately put all pillows on the crankshaft, but do not tighten, install the bolts. Now start tightening one pillow at a time, always starting with the third, tightening it up and tightening the crankshaft, turn it with a wrench as shown in the photo below. And so after each tightened pillow, try to turn the crankshaft. It is necessary to tighten the pillows well, but do not overdo it as you can break the bolts. You can read more about the crankshaft in the article Repairing the crankshaft (crankshaft).

Photo. Tightening the crankshaft pads.

After installing the crankshaft, we proceed to install the pistons. The photo below shows how the piston should be placed in the cylinder correctly. More details can be found in the article Changing the pistons for the VAZ 08-09.

Photo. Correct installation of the piston in the block, the arrow shows the liner lock on the connecting rod.

Before installing the piston in the cylinder, be sure to lubricate the piston rings with oil and do not forget to lubricate the connecting rod bushings with oil.

Photo. Installing the piston into the cylinder with the help of a homemade grip of which I wrap one ring at a time, I inserted the oil-oil with a light blow of my hand, I insert the following.

The pistons with connecting rods are in place, we put the back cover, but do not forget to replace the old oil seal with a new one, I do not put a gasket under this cover, I smear it with sealant.

Photo.The back cover of the VAZ 2108 engine.

Before installing the flywheel, chisel in a clearer groove on the factory mark with a chisel, as the factory mark is very thin and can be difficult to find on the flywheel when it is in the engine.

Photo. The mark on the flywheel of the VAZ 21083 engine

Put the flywheel correctly so, bring the fourth piston to the very top as shown in the photo, the mark should be at the top.

Photo. Correctly set flywheel on a VAZ 21083 engine

Be sure to lubricate the bolt threads with sealants when tightening the flywheel, since in the crankshaft threads, the through bolt not oiled with sealants can leak oil into the clutch disc.

Photo. Oiled bolt to sealants when tightening the flywheel.

To easily and strongly tighten the flywheel, you can use the method shown in the photo below. Block the connecting rod with a pipe, and tighten the bolts with the head.

After installing the flywheel, you need to put the clutch disc correctly, if you put it the other way around, the clutch will not work. In the photo below you can see the clutch disc basket, the arrow shows the protruding clutch disc washer, it should go into the basket. As the photo shows and should be set, the input shaft from the classic box is ideal as a centering mandrel for the clutch disc.

Photo. Correct installation of the clutch disc.

Photo. A twisted basket with a centering shaft, after this shaft is pulled out, the shaft gives an accurate centering of the clutch disc, without a centering shaft it is very difficult to correctly center the clutch disc. And this may prevent the engine from being put on the box, since the box shaft will rest against the clutch disc.

Photo. Shaft in the clutch disc.

Now you can put the front cover (oil pump), do not forget to replace the oil seal with a new one, put the oil pump on the groove of the crankshaft. I do not put a gasket under this cover, I use sealants. Install the timing belt key and gear. Screw on the front crankshaft pulley.

Photo. Tightening the front crankshaft pulley.

Before installing the oil receiver, be sure to coat the end of the tube with sealants, this will prevent air from leaking into the oil pump, if this is not done, the old rubber gasket will poison the air, this will lead to poor oil pressure.

Photo. Installing an oil receiver on a VAZ 21083 engine

Now you can screw on the oil sensor and sump.

Photo. Engine before installing the pallet.

It remains to screw on the pump, but in order not to be mistaken how to put it correctly, you can navigate by the hole in the pump, it should look down the engine, this hole is shown in the photo.

Photo. Engine pump VAZ 21083.

Photo. VAZ 21083 engine with installed pump.

Since the engine was removed without a head, it means I will put it without a head through the bottom, but for ease of installation, you can cut a piece of tin from the hole in the boot of the gearbox as shown in the photo below.

Photo. Boot box VAZ 21083

You can immediately lubricate the release bearing with oil, preferably transmission oil or mixed with lithol, it can be pressed with a syringe through the slot shown in the photo below.

Photo. The release bearing of the VAZ 21083 engine.

We put the engine as we shot it through the bottom without a head, this can be easily done at home together. To do this, pass a belt or rope under the engine, put a thick rag on the front of the car and using a pipe or crowbar, you can pull the engine over the box without straining, as shown in the photo below. Lift the box with the bolts, lift the engine, screw on the pillow, the engine is delivered, it remains to put the head.

Video (click to play).

Photo. Installing the VAZ 21083 engine through the bottom.

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