How the VAZ 21099 is being repaired can be seen in the video. Do-it-yourself repair VAZ 2109 will increase the reliability of your car in good condition.
The propulsion system of the machine is designed to receive mechanical energy, which ensures overcoming external resistance forces during its movement. It consists of an engine and its service units and various systems. During operation, the car engine will certainly wear out and if the owner neglects the technique of caring for it and does not carry out regular repair work, then the need for overhaul of the engine unit will come much faster.
To conclude that it is necessary to repair the VAZ 2109 engine, diagnostics are carried out and, on its basis, a decision is made on whether it is worthwhile to sort out the entire power plant or it is enough to repair several specific units so that the power plant gets used to them and starts working as usual. A deeply erroneous opinion is that the greater the mileage of the car, the closer the term for the overhaul of the engine.
However, the timing of the overhaul repair is postponed if the machine was well looked after and high-quality maintenance was carried out, the air filters, technical oil and coolant for the radiator were changed in a timely manner. In this case, even if a frightening figure with many zeros appears on the odometer, which shows the number of wheel revolutions, then you should not immediately think about overhauling the engine in a major way. When the operation of the adjacent systems of the power plant does not cause any complaints, you should not rush to thoroughly repair the power plant.
But if the owner of the car neglects the needs of his iron horse: he does not technically service it and makes the car move in conditions for which it is not intended, for example, takes part in races. That very often after such extreme conditions of movement of the car, it will soon urgently need a major overhaul.
Upon completion of the overhaul repair, all regulatory characteristics must show restoration to the parameters set in the certification:
With the successful implementation of the overhaul repair of the power plant, a mileage of up to 100-150 thousand kilometers and a reliable service of the power plant of the car are guaranteed, but only when the technical inspection of the car is carried out regularly and with high quality.
On the eve of a major overhaul, it is required to draw up a detailed action plan:
It turns out what kind of repair of a VAZ 2109 engine with your own hands you can do with your own hands, and what you must trust to a mechanic for repairing cars. Necessary:
On this process, the repair of the crank mechanism is completed and preparation for the subsequent operations begins.
Continuing the repair of the VAZ 2109 engine with their own hands, they begin to repair the engine head. If the diagnostics revealed traces of poor-quality milling, and through scratches on the surface of the head, the antifreeze leaked into the oil channel. In order to restore the cylinder head, it must be removed and sanded - a flat surface will prevent oil from leaking and losing its professional properties.
Continuing to disassemble the cylinder head, remove the spring-loaded rocker and examine where the rocker contacts the spring. As the rocker develops, its upper part acquires a noticeable rounding - when installing the rocker obliquely, better regulation of the gap between it and the GDV shaft is necessary. And if the rocker itself is installed with an inclination in relation to the shaft, then it is already unusable and must be replaced with a new spare part. Then the valves and other parts are removed, the shaft and pushers with washers for adjustment are removed.
The state of the newly opened wells with pushers that operate inside them is checked. In case of severe wear of the valve guide sleeve during further operation of the machine, the pusher deviates from the specified trajectory, and the wells cease to be round and take on an unusual oval shape. In this case, it is no longer enough to change only the guides - it is better not to save money and buy a new cylinder head - in extreme cases, the head is processed on a boring machine and the bronze bushing is pressed.
Next, you need to start examining the studs and the integrity of the threads on them - if the thread is torn off, it is better to replace the stud with a new one. Then the head will easily take its place, because a hairpin with a poor-quality thread is twisted with considerable effort, and it is even more difficult to unscrew it. After restoration, reconditioned or new parts are returned to their places along with a new cylinder head gasket.
If a number of previous operations could be performed with your own hands, then for boring cylinder blocks it is necessary to hire a master who has the skills to work on special equipment. The owners of the car take out the cylinder block and give it to the masters for boring, and after restoration they put the cylinder blocks in their original place.
The cylinder head has a sufficient margin of safety and a solid resource to operate it for a long enough time, and rarely breaks ahead of time. Cylinders are mostly repaired on a planned basis, but sometimes they are subject to immediate repairs. For example, when you need to weld a hole in the block, which is formed by a break in the connecting rod mechanism.
Sometimes the owner of the car wants to bore the blocks of cylinders, not for routine repairs, but in order to increase the engine power. Under the influence of such a process, which is called forcing, the combustion chamber increases in the working volume, which leads to a significant increase in power. Before making such an operation, all risks are carefully calculated, because forcing can squander both the block and the head so much that the walls of the head can deform and become unusable.
When boring cylinder blocks, the expansion of the seats is provided - the liners are used already increased in size.To know exactly their parameters, you should consult with a specialist who will carry out this operation. Determination of new dimensions is carried out using an internal gauge.
The boring operation is carried out on a special machine at a low speed, showing certain skills in this area. When boring, it is necessary to simultaneously adhere to the dimensions of the future cylinder, not to violate its shape and adhere to the principles of high-quality processing. It is very important to adhere to strict positions - the cylinders must be placed strictly parallel and perpendicular to the camshaft bed. And it is important that during boring there is an allowance so that the axis does not shift during honing - the final operation during boring to correct possible defects during the previous operation.
This completes the overhaul of the VAZ 2109 engine and it is necessary to assemble and install the power plant in its previous position. After the final stages of assembly and filling with antifreeze, technical oil and water for further operation, manipulation of the valves is certainly carried out. this operation will be the final one as part of the overhaul of the power plant.
Overhaul engine repair is carried out after a certain run of the car. The engine can be completely replaced, or its individual parts are changed - in order to determine which parts are already worn out and need to be repaired, a thorough diagnostics is carried out. The fact that the engine needs overhaul is recognized by the high oil consumption, compression check and comparison with the control ones in the cylinder. With the characteristic sounds of the engine and a drop in the power of the movement of the power plant.
When the owner took good care of his car, and regularly carried out maintenance, changed the oil and air filters, then the terms of the overhaul repair come later. In the event that the owner of the car neglected the needs of his transport, then the need for major repairs was approaching faster.
When carrying out repairs to the power plant, the engine is removed by overhaul using lifting mechanisms, installed on a pallet and moved over. With a strong development of the power plant, the engine changes entirely. In the case of his good condition, only certain details change. The engine is disassembled and its parts are marked so that they can be installed strictly in place. Those parts that have not yet worked out their capital resource are removed, cleaned, lubricated with technical oil and await their turn to be installed. The sequence of assembling the engine after overhaul repair is strictly defined and must be adhered to.
The cylinder head is removed by the owner of the car, but it is bored by specialists using special equipment. The bore cylinders are installed by the owner of the machine on their own. Correctly performed overhaul repairs provide the car with a long mileage and high-quality further operation. If the overhaul repair was done correctly, all parts of the car's engine were altered, and the worn-out parts were replaced with new ones, then such a repair will eliminate all problems and return the car to ease of movement.
VIDEO
We bring to your attention some information that directly relates to engine overhaul.
It is often too difficult to find out for sure at what moment it becomes necessary to carry out a complete overhaul of the engine, this concerns practically the beloved VAZ. At the same time, maybe it shouldn't be produced at all? In this case, it is necessary to take into account a huge number of factors.
High mileage, as most people prefer to believe, is not at all a clear sign of a serious need for overhaul. Likewise, and vice versa, low mileage can absolutely not give any guarantee that the engine is in good condition.An important role in this issue is played by the frequency and quality of performing all kinds of procedures that are directly related to car maintenance. Thus, the engine, in which the filters and oil were constantly replaced on time, in addition, all other procedures related to care were carried out quite conscientiously, it is likely that it will last a longer time. Conversely, a completely negligent or complete failure to follow procedures of this kind related to the routine maintenance of machines will lead to the need to overhaul the engine in a very short period of time.
As soon as you notice that the oil consumption is too high, it is imperative to pay special attention to the condition of the piston rings, guide bushings, as well as the valve stem seals. However, it is imperative to check and make sure that oil is not being lost simply as a result of a leak.
The first step is to check the pressure in the cylinders. This will allow you to have the necessary information about the state of the piston. It is quite possible to check the pressure on your own; for this purpose, instead of a pressure sensor, you just need to install a pressure gauge. The result obtained during the measurement is compared with the requirements in the specifications. Insufficient pressure indicates that the bearings or hydraulic pump are likely to be worn out.
Unstable engine operation, noise of unknown origin, some tapping, increased fuel consumption, reduced power - all this may well act as a clear sign that an overhaul of the engine is required, especially when several of them were simultaneously noted at the same time. In addition, you can try to tune the engine, but if this does not give a special result, it is necessary to carry out the usual mechanical work in order to be able to restore the proper performance of various engine components.
Carrying out a complete overhaul includes the restoration of engine characteristics to the values that were observed before direct operation, all of them are indicated in the specification of the units. In the course of the repair, the piston rings and cylindrical groove are replaced, as well as their finishing. As a rule, the groove is made in a car workshop, since this procedure cannot be done on our own with proper quality. Pistons of the required size are also installed there. If necessary, the crankshaft journals are also restored. Main bearings and connecting rod bearings are replaced. A full range of work is being done that relate directly to the maintenance of the valve mechanism. In most cases, by the time the engine needs to be repaired, the support plates, valves, return springs and other components are already in a deplorable state.
Simultaneously with the overhaul of the VAZ, it will not be superfluous to check the condition of the starter, generator and distributor, if necessary, they need to be replaced.
At the end of all the work done, a fully restored engine must work like new, while it must serve flawlessly for 100-150 thousand km.
When you are going to do that part of the work on your own, which is within your power, before figuring out what specifically to entrust the specialists, disassemble the engine and carefully check its current state for yourself.
It is not worth buying all the spare parts in advance. In addition, you do not need to try to perform the machine work of some of its parts, since the engine may well be in such a deplorable state that it is much cheaper, and it will also be easier to purchase a new one or that has undergone a restoration procedure.In addition to monetary costs, engine overhaul requires a fairly large amount of free time, for this reason it is absolutely not worth saving to choose poor quality parts for installation or simply non-standard ones.
This revision will allow in the winter - to warm up the engine faster, and in the summer to get rid of the heat from the side of the stove. How this can be done and we will consider in this article.
I saw how the dimensions of some foreign car burned, and when it slowed down, the same dimensions lit up brighter. This interested me. I also decided to redo the rear dimensions and feet on my VAZ 2111.
The purpose of the adsorber is to comply with environmental standards. It is a container with activated carbon, which sooner or later becomes dirty. Of course, you can try to clean the adsorber, but more often than not, they just change it. Why not immediately replace the VAZ 2110 adsorber with Priorovsky?
This video provides step-by-step instructions for motorists on repairing a VAZ 2109 engine. The author of the video describes the entire assembly process in an accessible form, and draws the attention of viewers to important points.
The briefing begins with a description of the preparatory work performed and checking their quality. This mainly concerns cylinder bore, crankshaft groove, etc. The quality of these works plays a decisive role in the quality of the entire repair.
Further, the author of the video shows step by step the process of assembling the crank mechanism: installing the crankshaft, bearings and crankshaft oil seals. This is followed by the assembly of the clutch basket, after which the partially assembled cylinder block is installed in the vehicle and attached to the gearbox and body.
After that, the video demonstrates the procedure for installing the pump, generator, and the assembly process of the piston system. The oil pan is screwed on and a cylinder head with a gas distribution mechanism is installed. The video pays special attention to the order of tightening the head. The following describes the operations for installing the timing gear, installing and tightening the timing belt, installing the ignition distributor, connecting high voltage wires, pipes of the cooling system.
Before demonstrating the results of the work, the author pours in working fluids: antifreeze, oil. Connects the remaining electrical wiring. The engine is assembled, it's time to check it in operation. And after several unsuccessful attempts, an even roar of the engine is heard, which indicates correct assembly. A few final touches of adjustment, and the car can be handed over to work. After watching, we are convinced that it is quite possible to repair the VAZ 2109 engine with our own hands.
VIDEO
Yulchenok 22 Feb 2011
Yulchenok 22 Feb 2011
And what does the very concept of the word overhaul mean? That is, the situation: some constituent parts necessary for the operation of the engine have broken down, if you change only them and thus establish the system of work, then this is not a major overhaul? And if, in addition to them, they also replace parts that are worn, but still they are still able to perform their function without disrupting the process of uninterrupted operation of the engine, then this will be a major overhaul. Could it be that I will do with the usual repairs, and not overhauls?, Where it is necessary to change all the parts, sharpen and do something else with the block. Thanks again for responding to my message.
Usually, in any service, the engine is first disassembled, and then they say that it needs to be changed or sharpened. This is bad. I will join the above. The first thing you need to do is measure the compression. unambiguously. By its results it is possible to judge the condition of the engine. Overhaul involves a complete disassembly of the engine to replace faulty parts of the connecting rod-piston group, and elements of valve mechanisms. Including grinding of the main and connecting rod journals of the crankshaft, and boring (honing) of the cylinder block to overhaul dimensions. It is possible that, based on the results of measuring the compression, you will not need to do any complex repairs. Find a friend, warm up the engine to operating temperature and measure the compression in each cylinder. Based on the results, write down the topic here. And then we will give advice on what to do next. Post has been edited by RomanS850MV69: 22 February 2011 - 05:24
Yulchenok 22 Feb 2011
Yulchenok 22 Feb 2011
Most likely, I don't have a friend who can measure compression. Also, I don't think the engine will have time to warm up to operating temperature, especially in a harsh winter. If in the fall I started the engine and it stalled after 10 minutes barely reaching the operating temperature, then in the winter I do not think that this will work. And in the service will they take expensive for checking the compression? and will it be enough to check the compression to fully assess the condition of all the components of the engine mechanism?
It costs about 100-150 rubles to measure the compression. And according to the results, you can determine what exactly is faulty: the rings are stuck or the valves are kapets. But still, according to the results of compression, it is impossible to assess the condition of all the components of the engine mechanisms. Here is a nice site Post has been edited: 22 February 2011 - 06:15
Yulchenok 22 Feb 2011
And they will be able to measure the compression if the engine does not have time to warm up to operating temperature and stalls? Does it make sense to go? And what else can you check right away so that you do not go to the service several times later?
If there is no acquaintance, then it makes sense to go. From the state of compression, it is easy to understand what exactly died. rings or all the same valves .. In principle, it is better to stand next to them and see if you are interested in something, you know something. Let me explain simply: if the compression is low in any cylinder, below 9.9 kgf / cm, roughly 10, then a little oil is poured into the cylinders with a syringe, if after that the compression rises, then the rings are to blame for the compression drop, if the compression is not has risen, or has risen slightly, then the valve is accordingly to blame, which is accordingly simpler and cheaper. Ultimately, you just need to separate the malfunction: that requires repair - the block, or the block head. In principle, I think that if your engine stalls after warming up, then 95% are bent, or the valves are burnt when the key is cut off. And this is the removal of the BC Head, replacement of bent ones, lapping, replacement of valve stem seals, valve adjustment — in principle, it is not very expensive.
Yulchenok 22 Feb 2011
And they will be able to measure the compression if the engine does not have time to warm up to operating temperature, or even worse, suddenly, it will not start, I have not tried to start it all winter. Of course, she laid out the battery at home, warmed it up and charged it, but maybe everything was so frozen there that I couldn't even start it? Will they check something else then?
Any self-respecting service will encourage you to overhaul the entire engine. If I were you, I would have repaired the head of the block from the beginning, it will not be superfluous and it will not be expensive, and after that it will be clear whether it is necessary to capitalize the block.
vas015 23 Feb 2011
Something tells me that even if the valve bends a little (even the smallest), the engine will not work normally. And if in all cylinders it will not work at all ..
The oil is also some kind of "magic" in the words of the master.
At the beginning it is said that
I found myself gushing oil a lot
, then the master explains this by a damaged oil seal. This can be understood - the oil seal is damaged, the oil flows outward. A banal situation. But in order for the engine to be damaged, it must leak thoroughly. And when you open the hood, you can see it immediately almost always. Where did it come from?
So, at one point, the oil seal flew out, this was not noticed in time. Oil got into the engine, mixed with gasoline and gases
... In general, some kind of nonsense. The oil is already in the engine. Due to the flown out gland, it can only flow outward. It is not clear how it mixes with gasoline and gases. The only thing that can be assumed is the destruction of the valve stem seal, which is essentially the same oil seal.This will force the oil into the cylinders (cylinder) and mix with gasoline and oil. But from the outside it is not visible. In this case, the candles (candle) will be thoroughly dirty and will die very quickly.
I got home, everything was in order. Then before another trip,
How long has elapsed since the repair of the key to the moment “it began to stall after 15 minutes. Interested - did it happen right away, or was the car in operation for some time?
Yulchenok 23 Feb 2011
Yulchenok 23 Feb 2011
Sam 23 Feb 2011
When trying to start the car, she stalled after 15 minutes, after the 3rd attempt, she opened the hood. Oil splashes from under the hood along with gasoline from the hole where the dipstick is inserted.
Probably the fuel pump menmram is torn and gasoline goes into the crankcase. Oil diluted with gasoline will squeeze out the oil seals and through the crankcase ventilation in abundance into the intake manifold and kill the candles. Look at the oil level and what it smells like. If there is gasoline, then deal with the fuel system first.
vas015 23 Feb 2011
Probably the fuel pump menmram is torn and gasoline goes into the crankcase.
I read the previous series of adventures, I wanted to clarify about the patient: - new fuel pump - the oil seal was leaking - there were operations with the carburetor, incl. the needle valve has been replaced, which can also potentially jam in the open state and, as a result, overflow of gasoline.
Probably the fuel pump menmram is torn and gasoline goes into the crankcase. Oil diluted with gasoline will squeeze out the oil seals and through the crankcase ventilation in abundance into the intake manifold and kill the candles. Look at the oil level and what it smells like. If there is gasoline, then deal with the fuel system first.
Stopudovo the diaphragm of the gasoline pump is screwed on, and I did not see where it was written about gasoline in oil. So her oil pressure lamp should then burn, at least up to 1500 rpm.
“Then the master explains it with a damaged oil seal. This can be understood - the oil seal is damaged, the oil flows outward. A banal situation. But in order for the engine to be damaged, it must leak thoroughly. And when you open the hood, you can see it immediately almost always. Where did it come from? " Lilo from the hood. I will try again to reproduce the cratina of what happened, I asked my acquaintances who know about this incident. In general, the oil seal was worn out, oil leaked, got on the key, turned the key, the ignition was jammed, the car stopped, did not start. When I turned to the master, he changed the oil seal, set the ignition, the car started up, drove 10 minutes to the house. When trying to start the car, she stalled after 15 minutes, after the 3rd attempt, she opened the hood. Oil splashes from under the hood along with gasoline from the hole where the dipstick is inserted. Then I asked the same master to come and see what was there. He arrived and said that most likely the valve and something with the piston were bent and that a major overhaul was needed. Once again I apologize for my automotive illiteracy, I just didn’t see more options on how to go to this forum and ask for help. I am so afraid that they will charge me money, as for a major overhaul, but in fact they will change one bent valve. Thanks everyone for the help.
In short, Julia is looking for a friend, you change the fuel pump, the oil in the engine, after that you change the candles, start and continue to drive quietly. But about the compression, then measure it and unsubscribe. This is the simplest one.
vas015 23 Feb 2011
Stopudovo the fuel pump diaphragm is screwed on
I somehow also tend to the gas pump, but you need to understand that it worked for less than an hour. As far as I remember, there is some kind of nut fastening the membrane. I don’t remember something, maybe it misses with a bad puff? Julia has a check left? Repair is possible at their expense.
With such a problem, I would have taken a closer look at flushing the oil system and would not splash good oil right away.
vas015 24 Feb 2011
Hello, I recently made a major overhaul of an injector for my nine, the repair cost 18,000 rubles, the masters advised friends, if you want a good repair, look for a good specialist, I was satisfied, the person treated his work honestly, one minus does not like to rush, and this is correct, plus a guarantee for assembly, subsequent maintenance. Now I'm rolling in, in the cold it starts up with a half-turn. When he came to him he checked the compression, in 2 and 3 cylinders is weak, the verdict is unambiguously opened, only after he was able to tell the reason, and the reason for the development in the cylinders, the car 2003, mileage 140,000t.km. It's time already, in your case it's high time to make repairs. P.S. I don’t know in Nizhny Novgorod, in Lipetsk I can mix.
Video (click to play).
140 is the prime of life for the engine. I myself changed the head gasket by 135. Wear is minimal - compression by 13 in all pots. And in the services they already drool begins to flow at the thought that the sucker can be diluted into kapitalka. It comes to the ridiculous - a person comes with a minor repair of the carburetor (replacement of the accelerator pump atomizer) - they make him a capial.