Do-it-yourself overhaul of the cornfield

In detail: do-it-yourself overhaul of a cornfield from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Today you will see in the video how you can make a major overhaul of the VAZ 21214 Niva Taiga 1.7 (injector) engine with your own hands. A car with a range of 60 thousand km. Engine 1.7, is power steering. The problem due to which a major overhaul is being carried out, the engine began to tweak. They checked the compression, in one of the cylinders it showed 5. We connected the scanner and saw the errors: P0300 (random / multiple misfires were detected, P0301 misfires were detected in the 1st cylinder. It was in this cylinder that the compression showed a value of 5. At the same time, the check engine light off. We measured the output in the first cylinder 15 acres, in the 4th cylinder 11 acres. The block will need boring. The engine will be completely removed.

Video overhaul of the VAZ 21214 Niva Taiga 1.7 engine:

The service life of this engine is in the region of 150 thousand km. run, he passed 65 thousand km. It is impossible to say exactly why the premature repairs were required. If you decide to do everything on your own, this guide will be very useful to you. The whole process is shown from start to finish, with detailed comments.

Among the models of the domestic auto industry, the VAZ 2121 stands out a little from the general range, not only due to its excellent cross-country ability, all-wheel drive and a monocoque body, but also due to the fact that Niva is the first independent development of VAZ that has reached serial production.
The car began to be mass-produced in early 1977 and immediately began to enjoy great success among the population not only in the Union, and later in Russia, but also in many countries, both near and far abroad. In its class, an SUV from Russia is considered the most successful model.
He found his consumer in France, Portugal, Spain and Canada. And although "Niva" in a complete set with a French diesel engine "Peugeot" are in great demand, cars with a domestic "1.6" are also sold quite well.

Video (click to play).

Body repair VAZ 2121 consists of several types of work.

Small scratches and dents that appeared during the operation of the VAZ 2121 can be removed with your own hands and is not even expensive at all.
For instance:

scratches are repaired by polishing the scratched surface with various abrasive pastes and materials that remove the top coat of varnish and paint, and this evens out the scratched surface. In cases where the top layer of soil does not touch the complete removal of the scratch is almost guaranteed.

Advice! You should not be too zealous, because in this case we remove, not remove the paintwork, and if you polish one place for a long time and persistently, you can get to the metal itself, and this threatens with high costs in which you will have to include the column "painting the car".

Due to shocks, temperature changes and metal fatigue, the geometric dimensions of the car may slightly differ from those indicated in the operating instructions, which is fraught with the creation of unnecessary stresses in various joints and a significant reduction in the service life of the car itself. So checking and restoring the geometry of the car is the main stage in the overhaul of its body part.

The main geometric dimensions of the body of the VAZ 2121

If the result is negative, that is, when the actual dimensions differ from the reference ones, the geometry is restored by straightening (stretching / compressing) the body and its elements.

When deforming individual elements, the metal is straightened by tapping and extruding it.
There are two ways here:

No subsequent painting;
With subsequent painting.

In the first case, the repair is based on the principle of metal elasticity. Since every object with some kind of elasticity tends to return to its original position, this property can be used for your own purposes - a dent is squeezed out with a special tool and then polished.

Unfortunately, this method is available only for people with special tools and extensive experience. I am afraid that do-it-yourself repairs in this case will smoothly lead us to the second type of repair.

In the second case, the dent is evenly tapped with a hammer or mallet from the inside, while a "fulcrum" with a rubberized soft surface should be applied on the opposite side.
If the damage has sharper edges or is a deep scratch, then the support is taken not on an elastic basis, but as a rigid support or even an anvil. Tapping is carried out with a nylon or wooden mallet, from the middle to the edges of the dent.

Attention! The damage should be tapped slowly, and without applying great effort. Strong blows will only aggravate the situation, since the metal can flatten out and it will be impossible to return it to its original state in this way.

In cases where straightening by the above deformation method is not possible, the damaged part is cut out, a patch is placed by welding or using solder or epoxy glue. Otherwise, the element must be replaced.

Advice! If, nevertheless, you want to tap the part and at the same time try to preserve the paintwork of the element, place several layers of soft cloth between its surface and the stand.

Before starting this stage of work, you need to make sure that the end justifies the means. That is, if the part is already practically eaten by the rye, then, as the saying goes: "It's too late for Vasya to drink Borjomi when the kidneys have failed."
If everything is not so bad, then we choose one of two ways.
Method one. We solder the centers of corrosion using solder:

Preparatory stage. We clean the surface of the body, remove traces of corrosion, process the edges of the holes with flux;
Tinning. The surfaces of the "wound" and the patch (if any) are covered with a small layer of solder;

When restoring the surface by soldering, the next step can be skipped

Direct soldering. In order for the seam to be tight and have maximum reliability, the surfaces to be joined must have as large an area of contact as possible.

Advice! In order to hide the soldered patch, it should be applied from the inside, then level the surface of the part with automotive putty and paint.

Method two. We seal the foci of corrosion with epoxy resins:

We process the restored surface with coarse sandpaper;

We clean the surface from particles of abrasive materials, oil and dust particles, degrease;
We cut out three patches from fiberglass according to a previously prepared template.

Attention! The patches should cover each other, that is, the first is 25 mm larger than the damaged surface to be covered, the second is 45 mm, the third is 65 mm, respectively.

The patches are impregnated with epoxy resin and glued one by one to the damaged area;

The resulting patch is covered with cellophane and glued with tape for tightness (so that the resin does not leak out);
The entire surface is rolled with a roller until the overall shape is given;
After 24 hours, the hardened patch can be processed - sanded, primed and painted.

Of course, it is advisable to watch the above presented body restoration work on a video illustrating DIY body repair of a VAZ 2121, but I think the presented material makes it clear the main stages of repair.

Due to the specifics of its operation and design, the VAZ 2121 requires increased attention, namely, increased control of the state of the body.In general, if you are the owner of a used "Niva" and are going to operate it as intended for at least a couple of years, carefully inspect the condition of the body of the VAZ 2121, whose repair and strengthening of its individual elements is more a necessity than a precaution.
Problematic areas that should be paid special attention to are:

The bottom, namely its corrosion and through holes in the floor (very often the car overcomes water obstacles without further high-quality drying);
Spars, namely, for cracks (the consequences of impacts with appropriate metal fatigue).

Side member cracks, as a rule, occur in the area of the mountings:

Steering gear;
Pendulum;
Engine beams;
Front shock absorber upper bracket;
Rear shock mountings;
Long jet rods to the very bottom of the floor;
"House" thrust "Ponar".

The photos below clearly show the body repair of the VAZ 2121, which has been in operation for only five years.

Restoration of the rear of the front side member

Front spar before repair

New, shiny - just like the real one

In addition to this, on the body you can expect some more "little things", namely:

Cracks in the most unexpected places

Complete loss of body parts

and car suspension elements

Since the work related to the restoration and strengthening of the body is very laborious and takes a lot of time and effort, the restoration of a car from an economic point of view can be considered cost-effective only when it is done by hand. And this means that when buying a rotten car, even when its price is mere pennies, it is necessary to take into account the future considerable costs of its restoration.
Reinforcement and replacement of floor parts and side members are usually carried out with patches of sheet metal 3-4 mm thick.

Ready-to-Install Spar Patches / Amplifiers

Ready, with reinforced side members, car floor

After all the main deformations have been straightened, the welding work is completed, you can proceed to the final part of the repair of the VAZ 2121 body.
We carefully inspect the body and its elements for dents and chips, which, after preliminary degreasing, are covered with putty. At the moment, the plane of the surface of the car body depends on the quality of the procedure, therefore it is considered one of the most important stages.

After we have achieved the initial state of the body surface, we begin to grind and polish it. This process is carried out in stages - gradually replacing materials with large abrasive particles to finer processing with fine-grained sandpaper. Your task is to make the surface of the body completely smooth.

We apply a primer. Primer - leveler eliminates all transitions between the filler and the metal (fills all the pores);

The last stage of preparation for painting is blowing dust off the car body, degreasing and drying it. By these actions, we ensure the maximum connection of the dye and the car body.
All that remains is to pick up the paint, paint and polish the car.

After perceiving the information presented in this article, it can no longer be argued that repairing the body of the VAZ 2121 and restoring its individual elements is an idle occupation. This procedure requires certain skills in many branches of plumbing, remarkable patience and ingenuity.
This is due to the fact that, even in spite of all the available power and capabilities of modern technologies, most of the body restoration work is carried out manually. This requires its specificity, which directly affects the cost of the work performed.
Well, since we do everything with our own hands, we “can handle all the mountains”!

Buying a VAZ body is a great chance to save money on an expensive overhaul or buying a new car.It has long been proven that it is more desirable to immediately dispose of a decrepit body for scrap than to periodically repair it in services where they take quite a lot of money for services of this kind. The new body for the most popular Russian SUV is an opportunity for a radical upgrade. On the other hand, if you understand the specifics of body repair, you can carry out the repair yourself.

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Today, various companies offer owners of a universal all-terrain vehicle to purchase assembled or metal bodies. Accordingly, the price will differ. In addition, a wide selection of colors makes it possible for each owner to choose their favorite option.

For example, an assembled body for a Niva will cost about 300 thousand rubles, but a skeleton in metal will be almost half the price.

The bodies of the Niva are realized in the following colors.

Of course, minor defects that appear during the operation of 2121 are not at all a reason for replacing the body. These defects can be easily eliminated by hand, saving on expensive specialist services.

Scratches, for example, can be easily and simply removed by polishing. Several types of grinding compounds and materials are used that effectively remove the top layer of paintwork, level perfectly frayed body parts.

Note. Complete elimination of scratches in such cases is guaranteed, unless, of course, the outer layer of the paintwork is not thoroughly damaged. And in general, you should not overdo it in the polishing process either, because in this case you can achieve the opposite effect, which will already lead to a mandatory painting procedure (already more cost).

The restoration of the geometry is also referred to the repair of the body. The curvature of the skeleton and its components occurs not only due to an impact, but also due to temperature changes and obsolescence of the metal.

At the same time, it is highly discouraged to follow the operating instructions thoughtlessly. For example, if the book says that the body will last so many years, you do not need to believe this, since more active operation, unnecessary loads and poor quality of the road surface cause unnecessary strain in individual joints, reducing the service life of the car.

Note. Diagnostics and restoration of the geometry of the car skeleton is the main and mandatory phase in the course of a full-fledged repair.

It is recommended to restore geometry by stretching or compressing the metal frame only in specialized car services equipped with advanced equipment (computer systems), machine tools, and so on. Unfortunately, it will not be possible to carry out competent editing by independent forces.

On the other hand, if after diagnostics it was possible to find out that only some elements of the body were deformed, then by tapping and squeezing everything out can be quite effectively eliminated. And in this case, you can carry out the work in two ways: without painting or with it.

Let's consider both options in more detail:

The first repair option is based on the properties of the steel. For example, each element that has elasticity tends to straighten to its original position. This characteristic feature can be put to good use if it is competently, using special tools and technologies, to squeeze out a dent and polish.

Note. Unfortunately, this repair method is available only to a select few - people with extensive experience who have a set of special tools.

The second way is less specific. In this case, it will be enough to evenly tap the part with a hammer from the wrong side, applying a soft stop from the return line.

Note. Tapping is a special technique that needs to be learned. Do not use strong blows, as the steel can flatten.

Another option for repairing the body surface of 2121 involves cutting out the deformed surface. This is done in cases where it is not possible to straighten the element using the above methods. As a result, the body element from 2121 is cut out, the patch is welded.

Finally, if this is not possible, you can take advantage of the replacement of a specific body element as a whole. For example, it can be a fender, bumper, front body panel, and so on.

To protect themselves from problems, a caring driver uses preventive measures. These include, in addition to antigrav treatment and other procedures, enhancement.

All operations related to hardening and restoration of the car body are very difficult, take a lot of time and effort, but give an excellent result.

In the first place, when it comes to modernizing the body, the side members are reinforced immediately. It is often carried out using steel sheets up to 3-4 mm thick. At the same time, the suspension fasteners are strengthened.

Immediately, we note that the strengthening of the side members in front is more relevant than ever if more rigid shock absorbers, springs and larger wheels are installed on the Niva. It is also recommended to do this after installing power bumpers and winches.

Here's what to do:

First, you need to provide access to the spar. To do this, the car is driven onto an overpass or lift, the wheel is dismantled.
Next, the caliper is removed, the retainer is unscrewed from the top of the support.
A knot is knocked out under the lever with a blow of a hammer or technique.
The shock absorbers (top and bottom) are loosened.
The brake cylinder is hung on the hoses.
The upper arm is removable, as well as the cup and upper bumper.
The gearbox and the steering wheel swingarm are released.

This provides access to the spar:

Next, the condition of the place for the shock absorbers is checked. If the part is not rusted, then it should be removed.

Note. To dismantle the "house" without any problems, you should drill the welded points. The drill is first filled with a 5-numbered drill, marks are made. Then the weld spots are finally drilled with a 10-hole drill. And one more thing: you can see all the welded points only after a good cleaning of the metal.

The "house" is removed, and then the entire surface of the spar is cleaned again for the purpose of diagnostics for possible minor defects.
Again, a thorough cleaning, because it is the basis of everything.

It's time to make the overlay:

A piece is cut out according to a pattern from cardboard. Everything is accurately marked on paper, including the locations of the bolts and retainers.
After the layout is ready, you need to put a sheet of 3 mm iron on it and cut it out with a grinder.

Note. It is very important to act according to the rule: measure seven times. In addition, the pad must fit snugly against the side member.

The necessary holes are drilled on the part and the side member.
The pad fits on the bolts and is well fixed.
Then the part is semiautomatically welded around the entire perimeter.
A "house" is put in place and is also welded.

At the final stage of work, it is imperative to cover all working surfaces with anticorrosive. In this case, mastic is the best suited, which dries up in one day.

Below is a list of the most popular measures to strengthen the Niva body and suspension:

Welding of a special type of subframe for the transfer case. This allows you to eliminate misalignment of the box and transfer case, to save the body from vibrations, which will have a very positive effect on the off-road characteristics of 2121.

Note. In simple terms, welding of a subframe is the transfer of fixation of the transfer case from the bottom of the body to the side members (already reinforced). Thus, the distributor receives reliable support and natural protection, including from stones.

Modification or complete replacement of the front suspension beam. A beam is installed with modernized arm bushings at the bottom, effectively blocking the bending of the axes.

Strengthening the side members by welding with metal strips, preferably 4 mm thick.

Installation of modernized ball joints and rigid springs (it is possible from the Volga, but cut by 1.5 turns). This gives a lot of benefits when you consider the heavy Nivovsky front end. Thus, the entire harness is well protected for a long time.
Installation of spacers to increase the suspension travel (spacers 20 mm).
Installation of new GZM shock absorbers Monroe 4x4 Adventure. In this case, it is recommended to reinforce the fixing zones of the dampers without fail using welding.

Installation of springs in the rear of the body from the Signal. They are stiffer and have rubber spacers, which effectively affects the work.
Strengthening the linkage "traction + body" (the standard one looks much weaker).
Replacing the standard grenade with SHRUS 2121, which is less prone to vibrations.
Installation of reinforced thresholds. They run along the entire perimeter of the side of the vehicle using the mandatory reinforcement moldings. The sills must be fixed to the side members.
Installation of a set of reinforced jet rods.

Thus, the owner of the Niva must decide for himself which type of event is more suitable for the car. If the body 2121 is in order, then it will not hurt to carry out reinforcement in order to prevent it. This process is also relevant in the process of repairing an automobile skeleton.

On the contrary, if the body has already become completely unusable, looks decrepit and cannot be restored, it will be easier to replace it. True, today numerous legal delays turn a cardinal replacement into a very difficult and dreary business. But, body elements can always be replaced.

The body on 2121 is the most expensive part of the car. Remember this, try to care for him regularly. Read useful recommendations from our experts, get competent information.

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They removed the cylinder head.

Cylinder block guide

They began to remove the cylinder block, for a long time they could not get it from there, the manual transmission guides dried up. One of the attempts to get the cylinder block.

Then they began to disassemble it in parts and spare parts. Removing the clutch basket and frontal.

According to the official data of AvtoVAZ, the overhaul of the Chevrolet Niva engine may be required after 60 thousand km. mileage. There are copies that came out without problems 120, 190 and 340 thousand km. It looks like it all depends on the initial assembly, break-in and maintenance of the engine.

Take the Niva engine, for example. To overhaul the Niva Chevrolet engine, first of all, you need to drain the antifreeze from the cooling system, engine oil, remove the battery, disconnect all wires, sensors, fuel injectors and pipes of the cooling system from the engine.

After that, we remove the air filter housing for convenience. We also unscrew the exhaust manifold. Next, you need to slightly jack up the engine by the crankcase to relieve stress on the engine mount and dismantle it.

We lower the motor below and remove the drive belts and tension rollers. Then we unscrew the bolts on the valve cover, remove it. It is necessary to unscrew the crankshaft pulley and camshaft pulleys and remove them.

We unscrew the bolts on the cylinder head and remove it. We disassemble the cylinder head. We unscrew the two camshafts and remove the hydraulic lifters.

Then we dry the valves and remove them. You also need to remove the valve guides and seals in order to repair the engine.

We clean the head of the blocks and inspect for defects and cracks, we press the head and channels of the cylinder block. It is imperative to check the valve for adherence to the seats. If necessary, grind the edge of the seat with a scraper, hammer in new valve guides and disassemble them. Then we grind the valve and seat.

You also need to check the plane of the cylinder head in relation to the cylinder block, since it is aluminum and subject to deformation. Visually inspect the engine and piston block. We remove the pallet, unscrew the oil pump and the yoke on the pistons. The yoke must be laid out in order (they must be numbered) in order to reassemble and successfully complete the engine repair.

We take out the piston. We clean and wipe everything, then carefully inspect for possible defects. Then you need to measure the crankshaft and piston holes in the block. If necessary, you need to bore and honing the cylinder block, and grind the crankshaft. For bored dimensions, you need to purchase pistons, rings and liners.

All gaskets and seals must be replaced. After we have performed all the necessary steps, you need to assemble the piston group, the cylinder head and the engine as a whole in the reverse order. Align the camshafts and crankshaft on the marks, fasten the rollers and tensioners, put on the belt, connect all the wires and cooling hoses. Fill in oil and antifreeze and try to start the engine.

Beginning with the head, even when disassembling it, remember to release it gradually. In this way, we prevent permanent deformation due to high stresses.Almost every head, after several years of operation, requires so-called planning, that is, leveling the surface connecting it to the motor housing.

Depending on the size of the element, you need to pay a lot of money for the service - from 20 to 50 thousand rubles. Without this, after re-assembly it can very quickly damage the gasket under the head (which must always be replaced with a new one). Depending on the condition of the valves and valve seats, they can be accessed and repaired or exchanged for new ones.

Also, we must not forget about replacing the valve guides. The cost is not great and the value for proper operation is enormous. If there is a gap in the guide, the engine not only consumes large quantities of oil, but a poorly functioning valve will quickly burn out, which leads to a decrease in compression in the cylinder. You should also remove unnecessary gaps in the valve arm and check the condition of the cams and shaft sleeve.

After several years of running the cam on the shaft, the timing mechanism may weaken, causing the valves to not open fully. This, in turn, causes a decrease in the amount of air supplied to the combustion chamber, and therefore a decrease in the maximum power available through the engine.

The prospect of saving sometimes even a few hundred rubles beckons, and many people choose this path. Unfortunately, they often overestimate their skills and capabilities. Of course, many are forced to take such a step by the bad economic situation. In addition, mechanics are not mysterious to the motorist. However, repairing an engine is an operation that requires much more knowledge than replacing a bearing in a wheel.

Remember that an effective engine repair must be comprehensive and include all components. It is best to entrust the repair of ancillary equipment to a specialized company or specialist. Some focus on the repair of the head and the crankshaft piston system, which consists in replacing some parts with new ones.

Others undergo mechanical regeneration of all units. A common problem is limiting the corrective action, for example, only for planning the head, piston rings, grinding the crankshaft and new liners. This is a path that gives only a temporary effect and is not very visible.

For more information about the overhaul of the Chevrolet Niva engine, see the video.

The Niva VAZ 2121 became the first comfortable Soviet SUV. Until its exit from the factory gates in 1977, off-road vehicles were used mainly for military needs. For a Soviet citizen, an off-road vehicle, in principle, was not available, and they were not on the open sale. There was an opportunity to buy decommissioned UAZs, but they did not differ in comfort. The only alternative to them was Volynets with an engine from ZAZ 969, which was available for sale, but it also did not meet all the requirements for comfort, although its off-road properties were highly valued.Niva turned the concept of an SUV for the semi-wild inhabitants of the country of Soviets - no one has ever seen such comfort as in the six, with the passability of an UAZ, but at first the consumer was stopped by a rather high price, and later they got used to it. Niva has become an active rural worker and city dweller - in terms of performance, it is in no way inferior to the VAZ classics.Niva 2121, which every motorist can do in his garage with his own hands, is still one of the most popular middle class SUVs. Like every car, the Niva has its own characteristic malfunctions and diseases. Being a very durable and reliable vehicle, it is very easy to maintain. Typical car malfunctions are mainly associated with the peculiarity of its design:

four-wheel drive and a transfer case with a demultiplier sometimes bring some trouble;

body design features;

front wheel drive;

engines from the VAZ 2106 are not designed for use on off-road vehicles;

front suspension characteristic only for Niva.

We will briefly describe some of them, but we will dwell on the body in more detail. Questions to him rarely appear, but this does not negate their relevance.

The main problem with the Niva engine was that it was not originally designed for use in harsh conditions. This explains many of its characteristic breakdowns.

For cars with a 1.7 liter engine, valve lifters have become the biggest problem. More precisely, their adjustment. When installing them, it is necessary to observe a precisely calibrated effort, otherwise they will either wedge or twist out if they are not clamped tightly enough. The malfunction makes itself felt with a characteristic knock, and if you do not respond in time, it can kill the camshaft. Therefore, it is better not to take on this business on your own if you do not have enough skills.

Transfer cases, as a rule, never cause problems. You just need to monitor the oil level. Propeller shafts can be a nuisance. Especially if they are not lubricated every 10,000 km. The crosses are not durable enough, but with regular lubrication, they will not be problematic.

Oil seals are another matter. The axles and the transfer case are equipped with oil seals of not the best quality, therefore they often leak. If you do not pay attention to this when changing the oil, then you can easily screw up the dispenser. It is better to buy branded oil seals, according to the factory size. Then there is a guarantee that the oil will not leak until the next MOT. After 2011, the VAZ 2121 has Italian oil seals from the factory installed, in this case there is no cause for concern.

We will present several options for bodywork that you can do with your own hands in the garage with a pit.

Before you start fighting corrosion, you need to figure out how rational it is. If it is easier to change a rotten threshold, then it is better to do this than to mold patches to rust. Nevertheless, there are some ways to give the Niva body a proper look.

Tinning can be used to localize small foci of rust. How to do this, we clearly showed in the figure.

Epoxy resins can also provide temporary protection against corrosion and partial repair of rusted areas. First, you need to thoroughly clean the damaged area, and then apply a polymer patch using fiberglass. After final drying, the patch should be sanded, putty, primed and touched up.

In Nivs, the place where the beam is attached to the body often decays. If you have a semi-automatic welding machine, this can be corrected by making a new pad on the seat.

First, we disassemble the front suspension until free access to the rotten place is obtained and we clean it with a grinder, removing the rusty areas.

Then we cut out a patch of living metal along the cardboard pattern, drill it around the perimeter for better welding contact with the metal of the car and weld it in place as follows.

After that, we grind the welding points with a grinder, prime and cover with anti-corrosion mastic.

Video (click to play).

Niva VAZ 2121 is a fairly reliable and practical car that does not require expensive repairs. Almost all work, including bodywork, can be done by everyone in his garage at minimal cost.