Do-it-yourself overhaul of a vaz 2107

In detail: do-it-yourself overhaul of a vaz 2107 from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Overhaul of the engine, or the eyes are afraid, but the hands are doing.

Background.
It all started, as you know, with the purchase of a "new" car in 2009. Car VAZ 21053 1997 color "safari" code 215 (for those who do not know - light beige). After the purchase, I skated no more than a couple of thousand kilometers and soon the move refused to pull normally. I checked the candles - relatively clean, adjusted the valves - it did not help. Having procured a homemade compression meter, and measured the compression, I was unpleasantly surprised.

The compression was as follows:
1 — 8;
2 — 8;
3 — 4,5;
4 — 8.
Here it is a no brainer that only an autopsy will save the patient. Like many brothers in misfortune, he began by calling the services, and, having learned the cost of the repair (15-17 thousand rubles only for work), he unanimously decided to make repairs with the forces of his limbs and gray matter.

And so, the age-old question, to which I did not find a detailed answer on the forums: "Capital of the engine, what and how to do?".

I'll start, perhaps, with a list of special tools that you may need for this ritual:
• set of heads;
• a mandrel for piston rings (about 260 rubles, but you can collect it yourself from a sheet of tin);
• mandrel for valve stem seals (20 rubles);
• valve desiccant (80-100 rubles);
• torque wrench (it is necessary to take such that the size of the square is the same as on the heads) (1300r);
• micrometer (500-600 rubles);
• mandrel of the clutch disc (50 rubles);

• a device for adjusting valves with a hour indicator (500-800 rubles);
• two- or three-legged stripper (400-500 rubles).

For spare parts:
• pistons;
• piston rings;
• main and connecting rod inserts;
• crankcase gasket;
• block laying;

Video (click to play).

Literature:
• Repair manual for your car;
• spare parts catalog (of course, rare in our days, but you can find it on the internet)

The engine capital has been completed. Now you need to drive the first 2500 km carefully without sudden accelerations, without overloading the engine. After driving 2500 km, change the engine oil. Look under the hood frequently to check the unit.

Advice for those who will disassemble the cylinder head.
As you know, a regular drying agent is not a very convenient thing and easily flies out of the engagement on a hairpin. I advise you to tighten two nuts on the hairpin and clamp the grip of the device between them, then the chance of getting the device on the forehead will be minimal.

In order to save money, the owners often repair the VAZ 2107 engine with their own hands. The motor of this model has some features. Before repairing without a service station, you must familiarize yourself with the causes and methods of troubleshooting the VAZ 2107 engine.

Photo of the VAZ 2107 engine.

The VAZ 2107 "Classic" is equipped with a four-stroke inline engine with four cylinders. The engine, depending on the modification, can be made with a central mixing injection system (carburetor) or with a distributed injection system (injector). Depending on the modification, it can also develop from 68 to 74 horsepower.

Car engine maintenance must be carried out in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, taking into account the operating conditions.

Lada 2107 is a rear wheel drive car. The connection of the engine with the variable gearbox is made in the longitudinal version. This design can make it difficult to completely dismantle the motor. Almost all of the interior engine compartment is used to house the engine, air filter and auxiliary systems. It also makes repairs difficult.

Dedicated car-tool.

The need to repair the motor can be caused by a number of reasons:

terms of Use;
planned wear of parts;
engine diagnostics;
unplanned breakdowns;
accidents and others.

The car was produced for about forty years. Due to the obsolescence of the design, there may be incompatibilities with a number of tools. In addition, full engine overhauls are carried out exclusively in private repair shops.

This increases the cost of the work so much that it may be easier to buy a new motor. If the breakdown is small and can be eliminated without complicated procedures, or it is possible to carry out partial overhaul, it is better to do everything yourself

The first thing you should pay attention to when there is a need for engine repair is the condition of the oil in the crankcase (color, turbidity and level). Engine oil in the engine lubrication system is the main indicator of the condition of the joints of engine parts.

Cloudy engine oil.

Clouding of the oil indicates the presence of running-in parts, blackening - about possible overheating or breakthrough of the flame from the combustion chamber into the crankcase. A drop in level may indicate leaks or frictional depletion in overtightened mates.

Checking the oil level is carried out on a cold engine when the vehicle is installed on a flat horizontal surface.

It is also necessary to check the level of antifreeze in the expansion tank. If the level drops, it could indicate overheating or a leak in the cooling system. If the level rises, then we can talk about problems with the thermostat - a device that, depending on the temperature of the coolant, regulates the speed of its movement in the cooling system.

Other malfunctions of the VAZ 2107 engine and their characteristic manifestations can be found in special literature, engine repair instructions.

Before proceeding with the overhaul of the VAZ 2107 engine, it is strongly recommended that you familiarize yourself with the special literature in order to better understand the procedures performed.

Upon completion of the repair, the car must be run-in to run-in all parts. Usually the break-in takes place in the first 5,000 kilometers.

Engine prepared for overhaul.

Before the actual disassembly, the oil must be drained from the engine. To do this, warm up the motor to approximately operating temperature and turn it off. If there is a ditch, then the car is driven onto it.

If it is not possible to enter the ditch, it is necessary to place the car on a flat surface.

Place a 10-liter container made of heat-resistant material under the oil drain hole. Unscrew the plug and drain the oil.

Then drain the antifreeze from the cooling system through the drain hole at the bottom of the engine cooling radiator.

IMPORTANT!
The oil can reach temperatures of about 100 degrees.
If you try to start the car when the oil and antifreeze are drained, the engine will completely fail.

When all working fluids are drained, unscrew all supports and disconnect the flywheel-to-transmission bolted connections. Using a winch, remove the motor from the bonnet and place it on a stand for repair.

Dismantling the engine does not require a special approach: simple unscrewing of the threaded connections.

Photo of the removed cylinder head.

Everything is removed: the cylinder head, electrical components, including the starter and generator, connecting rods, crankshaft, oil pump and so on. As a result, a separately disassembled cylinder block and a crankshaft should remain. Removing the head and all elements is a simple procedure.

It will be difficult when assembling gas distribution and other engine mechanisms, which require precise matching of the position of the working parts. Installing the head will require compliance with timing marks and other mechanisms.

The removed cylinder head and crankshaft together with the purchased pistons are taken to the grinding specialist. The specialist makes all measurements, including all sizes of the crankshaft, for the subsequent boring of the engine. Boring is necessary to compensate for wear on non-replaceable parts.The specialist grinds to the dimensions of the already purchased pistons.

First of all, worn out plain bearings for the crankshaft bearings, piston rings (compression and oil scraper) need to be replaced. We need gaskets (under the block head and others) and oil seals - installing old ones with new working dimensions can lead to the formation of gaps through which oil and antifreeze will leak.

Consumables required for overhaul.

You also need to purchase rollers and a belt for a belt drive. If the drive is chain, you need to check the chain.

The temperature and pressure sensors in the lubrication system need to be replaced.

We need filters (air, oil filter and others), new oil and antifreeze.

The list of what is needed to repair an engine on a VAZ 2107 also includes all consumables and fasteners. For example, sealant or retaining rings. The need for them arises in the course of the repair and cannot be predetermined.

The cylinder head is a critical part of the engine. It contains the timing elements: valves, camshaft, drive gears and others. All parts must be free of visible defects, no noticeable wear, and also not hang out in the guides. In the case of the first repair (overhaul or planned after overhaul), replacement of the camshaft may not be necessary.

Before assembly, you need to make sure that the oil channels are clean, since one of the types of engine lubrication starts precisely from the head.

In addition, even the slightest blockage in the passages will melt the bearing shells, gaskets and other heat-sensitive parts.

Disassembled car engine.

The process of assembling an engine on a VAZ 2107 begins with the installation of a lubricated crankshaft on the supports. Care must be taken not to twist the liners. The accuracy is checked by the coincidence of their locks. The axial displacement is compensated for by half rings. As a result, the backlash should be barely felt by the hands.

After installation, the yokes are tightened. Each twisted yoke must be alternated with checking the smoothness of the crankshaft in the bearings.

The next step is to install the pistons in an assembly with rings (compression and oil scraper) and connecting rods. To do this, you need a mandrel, with which the rings are compressed before the piston is seated in the cylinder. After that, the connecting rod journal is aligned with the journal on the crankshaft. The yokes are twisted.

Next is the turn of the installation of the elements of the lubrication system and oil seals. They are pre-lubricated.

Many motorists, especially beginners, do not quite clearly understand what the repair of a VAZ 2107 engine, or any internal combustion engine, for example, a VAZ 21213, which is called "overhaul", or overhaul, is. Let us explain this using a simple “life situation”.

Your car is not new. You drove it, it "ate" an abundance of oil and gasoline, the engine had poor thrust and was noisy. Your car could not climb a long, steep hill in 4th gear. You had to switch to the third one, all the road users following you first signaled you, then overtook you.

And somehow you decided to “save money” on the purchase of engine oil. The path is not short, and the oil decreases very noticeably. You bought cheap oil from the market, put it in the engine and forgot. But on the way I had to skid. The engine began to overheat, it is evening time, the place is wild. You have a "classic", not a VAZ 21213. There is no distribution box. You jerked off the gas pedal, and at first speed, finally, left. On the way to the house, the knocking intensified, the oil pressure lamp began to burn constantly, I had to go on "suction", and when entering the garage, the car completely stalled.

In the workshop, it was found that:

the camshafts are scarred and chipped, with coarse burrs.
The splines on the shaft of the oil pump are cut off almost completely, while the entire crankcase and filter of the oil pump is clogged with shavings and metal debris.

The following happened: during the forced operation of a hot engine, the engine oil lost its lubricating properties, and intensively rubbing parts instead of lubrication were worn off, and at the end the engine even "jammed".

Significant funds were spent on repairs. The following was done:

replaced the cylinder head,
the chain is tightened,
new oil pump delivered,
completely changed oil with engine flushing,
replaced the oil filter,
many gaskets had to be changed,
the ignition moment was re-set, at the same time new high-voltage ignition wires were purchased (the wire from the coil was supplied from the VAZ 21213);
new candles were installed;
replaced the generator relay;
timing chain tightened, tensioner and damper adjusted.

Should we consider that a major overhaul has been carried out?

The answer is no. Just as the machine before “ate bad oil a lot and well,” so it will consume good oil on an increased scale. Just as she did not ride up the hill before the accident, so she also drives badly after repairs.

Overhaul of a car engine is the repair that is carried out due to the loss of thrust and engine power - namely, a decrease in torque,

What are the ways to identify the loss of power? Simple ways are as follows:

Excessive consumption of oil and gasoline;
Decrease in acceleration dynamics with a well-adjusted carburetor, this applies to all "classics" and to the VAZ 21213;
The appearance of black smoke and soot in the exhaust, traces of oily soot at the end of the exhaust pipe.

What can simulate the need for a major overhaul?

In the event that the gasket slightly does not correspond to the dimensions of the cylinder, for example, a gasket from the VAZ 21213 is supplied. Sometimes it happens that a similar picture develops if the cylinder head gasket is broken. In this case, there may be a decrease in power output and compression. It may give the impression that a major overhaul is needed;
Sometimes the head bolts are not tightened correctly after opening, as a result of which a skew is created;
In the event that the gasket slightly does not correspond to the dimensions of the cylinder, for example, a gasket is supplied from the VAZ 21213.

Loss of power is a consequence of incomplete adherence of the pistons to the cylinder walls, or a decrease in compression. It is the reduction in compression, wear of the piston rings and an increase in the diameters of the working volumes of the cylinders that require major overhaul.

Good compression is especially important in small gears when the engine is delivering high power. This allows, for example, VAZ 21213 to overcome off-road.

Remember: the main thing in an overhaul of the engine is the repair of the cylinder block.

The stages of cylinder block repair are as follows:

Troubleshooting - or measuring the compression number in each cylinder;
Disassembly of the block and careful measurement of planes and dimensions;
Boring a block for new dimensions, and honing surfaces - or changing the geometry of cylinders;
Checking dimensions, machining planes, grinding and honing the crankshaft (main and brass journals) - in this and the previous paragraphs, the overhaul consists in its essence;
Balancing the crankshaft with the flywheel and clutch basket;
Selection of new piston rings for new sizes;
Assembly, performance testing and measurement of compression after repair.

For those who decided to make a major overhaul on their own, so that only spare parts are bought (since they will take more than tens of thousands of rubles for just one job in a car service), we will briefly describe only the disassembly and the process of removing the cylinder block (the approach is almost the same for the VAZ 2107 and VAZ 21213):

Only now, when the garage has become like a spare parts warehouse, can you unscrew the crankshaft pulley mount, clutch housing screws, large nuts (2) from the engine mountings, and, with the help of a partner, hang it on a beam, gently lift it above the engine compartment and remove the engine.

After that, the clutch is removed, the oil filter, the flywheel, the timing chain, the crankshaft star are also removed, and only after that you can begin to assess the condition of the crankshaft, its necks, liners, and also start working with the cylinder block, evaluating the future overhaul.

In the event that you are not afraid even of the preparatory volume of work, then we can safely recommend that you carry out an overhaul of the engine with your own hands.

In addition, you should find a service station where they will bore the cylinder block, grind the crankshaft, perform press fitting and other operations.

Thus, without serious auto repair shops equipped with machine tools, it is still impossible to carry out a major overhaul with your own hands alone.

The decision is yours.

More from the Soviet Union, more than forty years ago, many motorists were already familiar with the VAZ-2107 car. This model is in many ways similar to the Italian brand of cars "Fiat". The main difference from Fiat, in fact, is a small nuance of appearance and some engine components. Such a model is one of the oldest in the post-Soviet market space, which means that many people are familiar with what it is to repair a VAZ-2107 with their own hands, because time spares no one, even the good old "seven". Image - Do-it-yourself overhaul of a vaz 2107

In many ways, of course, the wear of the structure and parts depends on the frequency and accuracy of use. Many novice drivers have no idea how to repair a G7 engine, they don't even know where to start. For convenience and full understanding, we explain - the car is far from new, its gasoline consumption is enough for driving, but it itself has lost its traction, so it will refuse to go uphill in fifth gear, so you have to drag on some smaller one.

overheating of the engine itself;
the appearance of unnecessary noise when driving;
the appearance of knocks;
overvoltage of the oil pressure pump.

All this forces you to reach your original destination on the suction. As a result, we notice an excess of the normal engine temperature, after which the car simply stalls. And of course, then you will climb to figure out what is the cause of the breakdown, without finding it safely, you will go to the service station to have your car repaired.

In such cases, these are such malfunctions:

complete wear of the distribution shafts and the appearance of potholes, notches and burrs on them;
defects of the spline, grooves on the shaft with concomitant clogging of its filter with unnecessary debris.

With such engine overloads, the lubrication functions of the motor did not change for the better. The engine simply lost its properties, therefore, the parts that rubbed became unusable, and the engine simply wedged.

At the service station, they made repairs to you, issued a check with a tidy sum, and you are at a loss as to what they did to your car, and this is what was done:

your chains have been tightened;
replaced the oil pump with a new one;
changed the oil in the engine, after washing it;
changed the cylinder heads;
replaced most of the gaskets and the oil filter;
installed a new relay and changed the candles.

And the question follows, what is the name of the engine on the "seven" after a thorough (overhaul) repair at the service station and what can it do now?

Repair of such a plan cannot be called thorough, if your "seven" could not go up the mountain last time, then now it will not do it.

But if you make a repair that will restore the former properties of a car engine, only then it can be called really solid.

How to determine that the properties of your VAZ-2107 engine are lost? On the following grounds:

too high oil consumption by the engine;
acceleration falls short of normal with a good carburetor;
the presence of exhaust "dirty" color and soot;
an increasing amount of soot.

And malfunctions such as a decrease in compression, an increase in the caliber of cylinders, wear of the piston rings can contribute to the early wear and tear of the device.

To everyone who is eager to save money on overhaul and do it yourself, we provide some recommendations:

find a place where you can repair the engine, prepare the building for this procedure. You will need a structure where there will be a pit and a crane-beam, because in another way it will be very problematic to get the engine out of the car frame; in a different scenario, you simply cannot remove it;
to get to the engine compartment, you will need to remove the hood;
disconnect the mass and remove the storage devices;
unscrew all the bolts from the radiator and expansion tank;
drain all the antifreeze;
drain engine oil from the engine crankcase;
remove the air filter and carburetor and put them away, they will not be useful to you for work, most importantly, do not forget to connect them back after repair;
disconnect the dangling hose from the fuel pump, but so that you do not lose all the gasoline, plug the hole with an M8 bolt;
remove the power unit;
remove spark plugs, pipes, cables and coils.

This is a rather important procedure, if you have not done this, then first read the instructions for working with these keys and screws:

disconnect the exhaust manifold, while completely removing the cylinder head;
inspect the pistons of the cylinders for the presence of inscriptions on them;
climb into the inspection hole, remove the protection from the engine crankcase;
remove the starter;
dismantle all pipes from the cooling system, water pump and heater;
disconnect the generator from the power supply and remove it together with the belt.

Next, you will have to unscrew the clutch housing fasteners, the nuts from the engine and call a friend, because you will not hang the engine on the beam alone.

remove the oil filter, clutch, flywheel, crankshaft star, timing chain;
we inspect the crankshaft for damage and defects;
now you can work with the cylinder block.

If you thought that you could do everything with your own hands, then you are forced to disappoint you - you cannot do without help at the station. You simply cannot do the procedures that the master will do at the service station, unless, of course, you have ever done this before. The master will bore the block of cylinders, grind the crankshaft and the like.

Repair of the engine from the "seven" can only be carried out in the workshop designated for such a service station, where there is the necessary equipment, machine tools and qualified workers.

Problems and malfunctions of the power system, the gas pump and both pipelines may even completely refuse to work.
Unnecessary dirt in the fuel and air jets.
Malfunction of the diaphragms of the inlet device due to their damage.
Debris in the pump filter and its malfunction.
Complete wear of the camshaft, timing, cylinders and pistons.
Breaks of high-voltage wires and breakdowns of spark plugs.

Also, in the injection engine there are such defects that can be eliminated with your own hands without outside help, if you try a little.

When a driver takes care of the car, monitors its cleanliness, serviceability, this shows his care both for the car and for himself, because a well-groomed car pleases the eye and breaks down many times less often. And, of course, maintenance helps to save fuel consumption and improve engine performance.

Contamination of the injector on a VAZ-2107 is the reason for a decrease in the throughput for injecting fuel into the combustion chamber and a violation of the composition of the fuel-air mixture.

The injectors can be cleaned up a bit with electronic systems. But this method is not the main one, since it will not be possible to completely clean the injectors initially, which means that your G7 will continue to consume more fuel, and the thrust will drop.

The main signs of injector clogging are:

the work of the motor is unstable, there is no uniformity in it;
intermittent ignition;
gradual loss of unit power;
friction or complete engine failure to start.

If you notice at least one of these signs during the operation of your machine, then it needs to be urgently repaired.If you still decide to leave the junk there, without attaching importance to it, then soon you will bury your engine. You can repair it yourself or hire qualified workers. Some experts in their field recommend: after repairing the injector, unscrew the spark plugs and scrape them out very well or replace them altogether. All this must be done, of course, to improve the operation of the system, because when the injector is inoperative, a large layer of soot settles on the candles.

It is also recommended to change filters and machine oil, because when a solvent enters the oil, its consistency and properties do not change for the better.

Be that as it may, the most important point remains the constant monitoring of the condition of the car and the elimination of malfunctions when they are detected.

Such an engine costs 50-55 thousand rubles, today it is not difficult to buy it. Engines of this type are sold in large cities in large quantities in almost all automotive stores, for the most part injection rather than carburetor ones are sold well. This is due to the fact that the injection engine is crammed with electronic monitoring systems. And any car owner would change the old carburetor for a newer one, if the opportunity arose.

Almost all drivers want to save money and at the same time not buy idle junk, so they go to buy used engines, prices for which are much lower than for new ones, within from 2 to 20 thousand rubles, and so that the mileage, preferably, does not exceed 40-50 thousand km.

And, of course, when purchasing such an engine, it is advised to send it for diagnostics to make sure of its characteristics and capabilities. If the result is positive for you, then feel free to take it.

So, repairing a VAZ-2107 with your own hands can be done if you have the time, patience and desire for this. Such a set and a little money will be enough to breathe new life into your car and enjoy it on trips.

The overhaul of VAZ 2101 to 2107 engines is the same, there is only a difference in the size of the pistons and the size of the crankshaft. For example, the VAZ 2101 engine and the 21011 engine differ only in pistons, on the 01 engine there are 76mm pistons and on 011 79mm, and the rest is the same.Also, the 2103 engine has 76mm pistons. and 2106 79mm. and everything else is the same. Also, the difference between the engine 2101 and 2103 is only in the crankshaft, the size of the chain, 2101 and 21011, the chain length is 114 links, and in 2103 and 2106 there are 116 links, and in the length of the distributor stem, and everything else is the same.Therefore, when repairing an engine, you just need to know the engine model.I will give a complete instruction on how to overhaul the engine with your own hands, at home.I will repair the 2106 engine, it jammed because the owner of the six was driving without oil pressure.Since the engine is removed, without a head, we can say that half of the work is already done, it remains only to disassemble it, at home it is easier to disassemble it on an old tire, first we begin to remove the pallet.Photo. Engine sump removed.Pay attention to the photo, 2 and 3 connecting rods are blue and dry, then remove the oil pump, and start unscrewing the connecting rods, but be sure to unscrew the connecting rod, immediately pull it out, put a pillow on it, and bait it, the pillows cannot be changed, each connecting rod has its own pillow ...Photo. You can see the torn splines in the oil pump drive gear. As the connecting rod with the piston was removed, it is immediately possible to determine the wear of the piston engine (the piston with the connecting rod is pushed up the engine), looking at this piston, it is clear that gases have escaped through the rings, this is evidenced by carbon deposits on the piston skirt. Also, sliding your finger along the cylinder, a small step is felt at the top dead center, this indicates that there is a development in the cylinder.I measure the piston, it is 79mm. This means that this engine has never been bored, and there is an opportunity for two more bores. I decide to squander the block for the first repair, these are 79.4mm pistons.He unscrewed the liner from the jammed connecting rod, and here it is necessary to determine whether to change the connecting rod to a new one or you can leave this one. Not everything is so simple here, of course, if you have extra money, you can immediately buy a new connecting rod and adjust it to the weight of the other connecting rods. But I have been working on engines for a long time and have seen all sorts of breakdowns, the most important thing in the connecting rod, so that the liner does not rotate in the connecting rod bed and the piston pin fits very tightly, and the fact that it turns blue from heating is not scary. So the owner of this six was lucky, the liner in the connecting rod did not turn, I leave these connecting rods, which of course affects the price of spare parts.Photo. Intermediate shaft sprocket. After removing the connecting rods, unscrew the intermediate shaft sprocket and remove the chain.Then unscrew the clutch basket, and the flywheel itself, to make it easier to unscrew the flywheel, put a piece of wood or a large key in the crankshaft so that the crankshaft does not rotate when the flywheel is unscrewed.Then unwind the crankshaft pillows, but be sure to remember which pillow is in which place, the pillows cannot be swapped. Remove the crankshaft, and unscrew the engine mounting ears, they will interfere with the boring of the block. Usually I do not unscrew the pump, if everything is in order with it, then there is no point in taking it off and wasting time.Photo. Engine block and crankshaft. Now we need to make a list of spare parts that will need to be purchased for repairing the engine, but it is very important that the pistons are bought before the block is taken to the boring, the borer bores the engine block under the pistons. And the liners for the crankshaft are bought after boring, when it will be known under what size the boring machine was bored. Since the crankshaft was standard, I predict that, most likely, after boring, the liners will be 0.25, but the borer will say for sure.It is also very important, be sure to ask that the block was bored out under the mirror, and not under the mesh.When choosing pistons, I usually put "Kharkov" or "AVTRAMAT".No matter how I argue that the boring of the block under the mirror is better than under the mesh, this will not seem convincing to many.Therefore, I will try to explain in such a way that they themselves understand the difference.When a piston with piston rings rubs against the cylinder wall in the form of a mesh, the mesh is a rough grinding with coarse sandpaper. A cylinder with a mesh turns out like a fine file, of course this file immediately starts to grind down the piston rings and the piston. In turn, the piston rings with the piston, grinding off, smooth the mesh in the cylinder, gradually filling the mirror. As a result, the piston with rings fill the mirror in the cylinder, but they themselves are already half worn out, plus a large output in the cylinder itself. Engines made under the grid do not last long, they start to eat oil very quickly.Although it seems that the mesh retains the oil on itself, thereby prolonging the life of the piston, but not because the oil holds better on the mesh, this does not prevent the sharp edges of the mesh from eating the piston and piston rings.Although I met people who proudly said that their engine was bored to the grid, but this until the engine has passed more than 20 thousand, and then questions begin, what to do, the engine starts to eat more and more oil.It is correct not to spoil the cylinder with a mesh, but to modify the piston, how to modify the piston is described in the next article.4.Intermediate shaft with liners5.Shaft and gears of the oil pump6.Gear wheel drive oil pump (fungus) Niva8.Support half rings (crescents)10.Piston rings 79.4 (necessarily German)12.Rod oil seals (for the German crankshaft)13.Valve oil seals (German)14.Chain 116 links (for six)17.Gasket under the valve cover18. Crankshaft and main bearings?A list of spare parts specifically for repairing this engine has been compiled, it remains to take the block and crankshaft to the boring, buy spare parts, and then only assemble the engine.Hello! How many times have I been writing this, but I will write it again. The engine seems to be clean because of the gas because the gas does not leave soot. But all the same, for gas, his motor is dirty, there are motors after 400 thousand, the motor is clean as new, but here there is a small soot.Many people who look for oil on gasoline have a cleaner engine, although I think you've seen such engines.Why capitalize? Meaning? The maximum could be limited to high-quality maintenance with valve adjustment. People have forgotten about the main principle - do not interfere with the machine working! I don’t understand.Hello, Sergey! Such a question for you! I'm going in the spring, it will be warmer, to make my capital 7ki, 06 motor. The light bulb is blinking, the oil is pressing, and the capacity has passed 180 thousand on gas. Which parts can you buy in advance and which ones are in the process of being renovated? Since finances are a bit tight now!Hello. Here is the question, how do you feel about gas generators for cars and is it worth making them?By the way, I had 6 valves burned out, the duck started up from the floor at random, but nothing really drove Troilus, but it doesn't matter)And it will be seen about the gas equipment how to correctly install the keys and minuses what is better to do in this case, and I just can’t find whether it is possible to put the gas myself.Write oil, interesting too.Thanks! For your videos! Keep shooting. There are a lot of interesting things, and most importantly, after these videos, it turns out to be repeated and done. From the heart.Hello. I have a question. Why does soot appear on the pistons? The engine does not eat oil, but there is soot!Sergey, another question: what do you think about the air ozonizer in the engine?Please ask the owner about the oil used! Very interesting!Write oil, interesting too.Well done Sergey, you are doing everything right. I wish I had such an interesting colleague, for general work on cars. I myself have been repairing VAZ cars for a long time alone, repairing electrics and mechanics. I understand all your stories in the videos very well, I can say perfectly well. I watch all the videos, they are all wonderful. And the interpretation is not obtrusive to whom it is interesting to understand and understand.Hello Sergey! I wanted to ask you for advice. I am not a very experienced driver, I have a VAZ 2114 8-valve for about a year, when I bought it (he was 6 years old), changed the oil in the engine and gearbox, filled the engine with 10W40 semi-synthetics. I drive almost every day, but not far, around the city, in a year I hit about 3 thousand in total. The question is: is it necessary to change the oil once a year, or run over 7 thousand at least, and then change it? With my mileage, this happens about once every 2-2.5 years, I heard somewhere that it is advised to change the oil once a year, but my friends say that every 7-10 thousand, regardless of the annual mileage. How is it correct, advise, as a minder?Good evening! I've been watching your videos for a long time and they help me a lot in car repair, since at the age of 17 I'm still learning everything, well, the question is, in general, they put a flywheel, the bolts were smeared with sealant and the plate in front of the bolts forgot, how do you think there will be no consequences?Sergey, thanks for the video. Good luck, health and good mood.Hello Sergey. I would like to clarify that when you modify the pistons, you drill holes on both sides of the piston or on one side where there is a load during the working cycle.But I noticed that the material where the holes in the gasket for the coolant channels began to crumble and will probably fall into the radiator channels and clog them. Sergei, before installing the cylinder head, the holes in the gasket can earn extra money in the shape and size of the channels of the block ??Sergei is trying to figure out for himself what the problem is in the engine, so that at the station they don’t hang on my ears that I need to fully capitalize. Throws candles. Either the valves are burnt out, or the piston. Either everything is in order, but it's something with the ignition, or something with the carburetor. The fact is that when the engine is disassembled, it may turn out that it did not need to be disassembled at all, but at the station they will say that it needs to be disassembled. Therefore, I want to ask a question, because you are experienced, please describe all the possible reasons for throwing candles, and if you can how to check if this is really a valve or piston or something else. If possible, insert links to your videos where there is an analysis of these problems. Of course, you can drop your videos, but it will take a lot of time to watch many videos, so for now I decided to ask you that. Thanks in advance. Auto 2105.If I were not in the place of the master, I would have told the owner to come back after 20 thousand, otherwise it would not have cost much THAT. But if the owner wants to spend the money, then his will of course.Sergei and not sharpening pots, you can capitalize moving.Hello Sergey. I took off the head, but on the two pistons there are grooves as from a blow to the valve. Does this happen? Diameter 76.8. In which city is your turner and is it possible to send the block by mail?What year is the car? Sergey, hello.Sergey good evening. Such a question is whether it is possible to dismantle the Moskvich 2140 block in the same way as you dismantle on the Classic. Remove the head, jack up the box and remove the block.There is money for the capital, but not for the cable.Sergey, where do you live, that you have such a spring already in February?)what city are you in? what is your temperature? Please make a video of how to put the disc and the clutch basket, more precisely, how to put the clutch discsHow much do grinding and parts cost?Sergey good evening. Thanks for the advice. I will take into account when repairing.Good evening Sergey, I have a question, for the first time I am doing capital on my own, on my 2109, (I rely on your videos) I am collecting kshm, maybe you said somewhere, I did not see how to put the flywheel back correctly, so that later the marks would be combined correctly, just I didn't make any notes for myself, please tell meHello Sergey, can you tell me if a VAZ 2107 carburetor is suitable for a VAZ 2105 1.2 will it not affect consumption or something else?Hello Sergei. I had a cylinder head gasket on my eight and the antifreeze went into the sump, there was an impulse left, now I need to flush the engine or you can drive like that.hello Sergey, I would like to clarify one point, and when boring the crankshaft, how the size of the crankshaft and the liner is determinedhello, I have a question in the crankshaft there is a bearing, otherwise I just don’t know, otherwise the hum of the kobut is accelerating to 80 km, the bearing is buzzing, I would like to see a video about this replacement of the bearing of a vaz 2108 motion 1.5.sps)Simple and affordable. smart girl. ... collected the engine for your video. :-)). I watch your channel every day. Share more details if possible. really like it!Hello Sergey. Troyeshny block with 76.8 pistons under what size can you bore and how much does it cost your turner?Seryozha, advise in how many thousand is it better to change the oil? I fill mobil 5w50 every 10,000 thousand. I ride half of the run across St. Petersburg (in mountain conditions). vaz 2107 engineer.Tell me where is that uchish block of cylinders and a calender?Hello Sergey! There is such a question as how to find the oil pressure of the vaz2112 after overhaul, everything is new, everything is good, but there is no pressure?Hello Sergey) Do not tell me on such a question, he is probably stupid, but still. From the last oil change, for a year, "Kopeechka" ran only 2200 km. And I'm thinking about changing the oil, or not. If there were 4 thousand, I would definitely change, but 2 200 for semi-synthetic oil. In general, I wanted to ask - can the oil deteriorate over time? I mean, just because it's in a barrel. or it is flooded into the engine of a car that does not drive.

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hello Sergey. You have wonderful videos, a very good example of car repairs, and the most important thing is needed for everyone. But I am writing for a reason, I need your advice. I work as a repair mechanic and we got Zil 131, we already broke our heads over it. The problem is, when it starts sneezing, the pirdit fires even from the carburetor, the flame flies out, as soon as everything warms up, the idle speed keeps and runs smoothly. already did the carburetor and set the ignition and still a miracle and not a car. Can you tell me something. Thanks in advance for the video and for the advice.