DIY cartridge repair

In detail: do-it-yourself cartridge repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

From time to time, printer owners encounter malfunctions. Most people have independently acquired personal experience in eliminating the minor flaws of such a device. As practice shows, a frequent reason for the unwillingness of the printer to work may be a software failure or a minor malfunction in the mechanical part, which can be eliminated independently, without seeking help from a specialist.

Let's consider the probable causes of malfunctions and how to eliminate them on our own, without resorting to the help of another person.

The device of printers such as HP, Canon, Epson, Samsung, Sharp, Ricoh is fundamentally the same. Therefore, we will consider several reasons that are found on all printing devices:

After the printer gave you the information about the error, first of all, check the presence of paper in the loading tray, whether the paper is jammed, the presence of toner in the cartridge, whether all the covers on the printer are well closed and, of course, the connection to the network and to the PC.
A common problem that you may not be shown is a software glitch.
One of the most common malfunctions is contamination of the mechanical parts of the device. First of all, you need to disconnect the printer from the power supply, open the top cover where the cartridge is located, take it out and visually inspect both the cartridge itself and the mechanisms in the field of view. In case of contamination of the mechanism, you just need to wipe it off with cotton napkins, slightly moistened with water. In hard-to-reach places, cotton swabs will come to the rescue.

Video (click to play).

Important! In no case should you use detergents and liquids containing alcohol.

In addition to all of the above, listen to the operation of your device. Are there any extraneous noises coming from it? If you hear them, this could be a signal that the gears that activate the printing mechanism are out of order. In most cases, they are made of plastic.

Below we will consider how to make repairs using the example of an HP LaserJet 1100 printer. This manual will also be useful for repairing Canon, Samsung and Epson printers.

Suppose the thermal film is damaged during printing with a paper clip on the sheet. For repairs, you need a small set of tools:

crosshead screwdriver;
flat thin screwdriver;
pliers with long jaws;
wet wipes or cotton-dampened pads.

Having prepared the necessary tool, we proceed to repair the device:

Important! During such work, each operation must be performed very carefully, since the printer is mostly made of plastic and any latch or part can break. Of course, after assembly, there should be no unnecessary parts. Image - DIY cartridge repair

What to do if the cartridge is dry? Our recovery method will be useful to all owners of inkjet printers without exception.

But first, let's find out how to understand that the cartridge is dry and not over?

Firstly, if he was typing in front of your eyes and suddenly abruptly - bam! - and stopped, it means that it just ran out of ink.

Secondly, if you try to refill a dried cartridge, it will not work. As he did not print, he never will.

Thirdly, even if you apply the "Shake off" method to an empty cartridge, you will be able to squeeze a little more ink out of it and even make it print a couple more pages.

You can try one of the following techniques or a combination of them in any combination and sequence.

This is a simple standard procedure (and the only one authorized by the manufacturer).Launched from the menu “Control Panel” → “Devices and Printers” → “Printer Properties” → “Maintenance” tab. And there you have to choose a cleaning option.

Keep in mind that this kind of cleaning of the cartridge leads to an increased consumption of ink, since they are powerful suction through the nozzles using a pump.

If the cartridge begins to strip or stops printing altogether, it can be cleaned with a special wash for cartridges prepared according to one of three recipes:

acid (HP color cartridges): 10% acetic acid essence, 10% alcohol, 80% distilled water;
neutral (suitable for any printer): 10% pharmacy glycerin, 10% ethyl alcohol, 80% distilled water;
alkaline (Epson, Canon): 10% ammonia / ammonia, 10% ethyl alcohol, 10% glycerin, 70% distilled water.

Before reviving a dried cartridge with this composition, it must be thoroughly filtered in any way possible.

If one kind of "acidification" does not work, try another.

An excellent result is achieved by using green "Mister Muscle" as a washing liquid for cleaning glass (the one with ammonia).

Mister Muscle is diluted with dist. water in a ratio of 1: 1 and used as a wash.

What else can you flush the printer head at home? Instead of Mister Musk, you can take a cheaper cleaner for glasses and mirrors "Every day":

The ink cartridges for printers from different manufacturers need to be flushed differently. How to flush the head of an Epson inkjet printer will be discussed later. In the meantime, let's start with the most common ones - Hewlets, Lexmark, Canon and the like.

So, your HP cartridge is dry, what should I do?

Sprinkle plenty of flushing liquid on the cloth and place the cartridge with the nozzles directly on it.

Make sure that the napkin is always abundantly moistened! Add liquid as it dries.

If the cartridge is empty and very dry, then you can shove it directly into the solution as a whole (but not for foam cartridges!) And pour it inside and let it stand for 1-3 days.

Epsons rebuild differently: take the head to the side, make a sponge out of a napkin or a thin piece of cloth of a suitable size and put it in the place where the head is parked. Saturate liberally with acid solution and park the head. Leave for 10 or more hours.

In extreme cases, you can completely dismantle the head and immerse it with nozzles in the composition by 1 cm. Then select the head cleaning from the menu (a couple of times). After that, if the cartridge is good, it should start printing.

An interesting discussion about the composition of the flushing fluid and how to soak a Canon and HP cartridge at home can be found in this video:

Well, the simplest flushing for any cartridge is pure distilled water. The next two methods will be just using it.Let's say that the ink in your printer is dry, what should you do? The high temperature steaming method will help you. The cartridge must not be empty. If this is not the case, it must be at least partially refueled.We turn on the kettle, wait for the water to boil, open the lid and hold our cartridge for 30 seconds with the nozzles down. Then we remove and wipe the nozzles with a soft cloth.We will repeat the procedure as many times as necessary.If this does not help, there is a more radical method - immersion in boiling water. To do this, pour the freshly boiled distilled water into a plate so that a layer of about 1 cm is obtained, and put the cartridge there with the nozzles down. Let it lie there for 20-30 seconds. Repeat if necessary.In this way, it was possible to reanimate even cartridges that had dried up a hundred years ago.Now I will talk about how to brute force restore a dried inkjet printer cartridge. Or rather, the power of water. Pressurized water is able to push through any dirt and the cartridge will be as good as new again.Use the method only when everyone else no longer helps (i.e.failed to soak the cartridge at home with anything).Since there is nowhere to go, you will have to use ordinary tap water. To do this, we go to the bathroom, open the tap with hot water so that it flows in a continuous stream, without splashing. The more water falls from a greater height, the better.We substitute our unfortunate cartridge under the jet and keep it there for a while. Periodically we take it out into the light of day and check if the desired result has been achieved.For light dirt, the shaking method helps.To do this, we take the cartridge, move to the bathroom, and, holding the cartridge over the bath, with a sharp movement “shake off” it with the nozzles down. The movements should be exactly the same as if you were shaking off a mercury thermometer.I highly discourage doing this in a room, because parents may not appreciate the beautiful ink blots on the wallpaper.The bottom line is that the ink, due to centrifugal force, squeezes the blockage in the nozzles and pushes its way out.You will see the result immediately - the escaping ink drops are hard to miss.This method is very effective and allows you to rinse out even a very dry cartridge at home without any problems.The pumping is carried out with a syringe with a rubber adapter. For these purposes, soft rubber suction cups from an old printer are ideal (they, in general, are there for this). They look like this: Image - DIY cartridge repair

But you can just take the rubber part from the dropper, put on the syringe spout. This one, which is yellow:

The elastic rests against the nozzles and, using the syringe as a pump, sucks the cartridge in both directions. Watch the video how the professionals do it:

A well-rinsed and refilled cartridge should leave approximately the following marks on the napkin: Image - DIY cartridge repair

One of the refueling methods is demonstrated in this article.

Now you know everything about how to flush inkjet printer cartridge from Canon, Epson, HP and others. Use this knowledge to your advantage!

Nowadays, you can buy a used inkjet printer with dried cartridges for 200 rubles, restore it, and then sell it. I have sold a number of printers that have been remanufactured in this way.

P.S. There is one more method - cleaning the cartridge in an ultrasonic bath... But, I think, if you had an ultrasound bath, you would already know how to use it. By the way, personally, I highly do not recommend this method, because with strong vibration the print head gets cranks (nozzles are destroyed), and from a weak vibration there is zero sense.

There are several reasons for cartridge malfunctions. It can be both misuse and technical breakdown, it is much more important how to repair an HP cartridge. There will be different repair methods for inkjet and laser cartridges. The main problem of inkjet devices is drying out, lasers have a longer list of problems, you can identify a broken part by a printed test sheet. Do-it-yourself HP cartridge repair is a very real task that everyone can handle.

To restore a dried consumable, you will need the following set of tools:

Flushing liquid. The RDM brand will do.
Syringe and needle.
A small knife that is comfortable to hold in your hand, it is better to take a clerical one.
Container with a lid.

A workflow for home recovery and repair of HP cartridges.

Install the cartridge vertically with the nozzles on top. Then you need to check if the flushing liquid is absorbed. To do this, drop a few drops onto the nozzles. If even a little is absorbed, rinsing will go faster.

In order to restore a dried HP cartridge, at the next stage, you need to carefully remove the white stickers from the products with a clerical knife (it is more convenient to use). This is necessary for a more thorough cleansing.

To speed up the cleaning process, you need to drop the flushing liquid inside the product, through the filling holes. This procedure will also clean the internal parts from the remnants of old dyes.For color devices, 3-5 ml of liquid is required for each color, for black - 7-10 ml.

For a more thorough cleaning and restoration of dried HP cartridges, it is necessary to additionally leave the cartridge in a container with flushing liquid for a day. It is necessary to pour the product into a container, put the product there, head down and close it tightly with a lid.

After the expiration of the specified period, the device must be removed, the liquid must be pumped out with a syringe.

All of the above actions are best done on a specially prepared surface and with gloves so as not to stain clothes, hands or furniture.

Next, you need to refill the cartridge and print a test page. If the print quality is unsatisfactory, then the soaking procedure must be repeated. A black cartridge is much easier to recover than a color cartridge.

In order to fix a laser printer, you need to find out which part is damaged, remove it and have it repaired. You can identify a broken part by the following signs.

If the print is faint, the starter drum is most likely in use and needs to be replaced. The second reason is the use of toner that does not match the printer model, or a mixture of powder. In this case, you need to completely disassemble the product and thoroughly clean it, and then refill it with a suitable dye.
If the sheet gets smeared with toner on the side or along its entire length during printing, there may be several reasons for this. First, when refueling, the old colorant was not well cleaned, which was mixed with the new one, or an unsuitable colorant was also used. It is necessary to disassemble the cartridge, clean and wipe all parts, get rid of toner residues. The reason may be in the shaft, it needs to be polished.
Horizontal black streaks are most often caused by a defective drum unit. It is almost impossible to restore its working capacity, it is necessary to replace this part.
The bifurcation of the text occurs due to the wear of the squeegee. It is recommended to lubricate this part with talc every time you refill the cartridge. If it cannot be restored, the squeegee needs to be replaced.

Thus, you can repair the cartridge for the HP printer yourself, if the problems recur regularly, you should contact the service center.

Hello everyone! After my previous post about repairing printers, I still have +10 subscribers) Although I do not pretend to be such respected pikabushniks as qepka and 80cats (I am far from them and their work profile is different), I am very pleased for your support. In this post I want to tell and show you about the repair of some printers that have visited our SCXerox WC3220, problem - after turning on it does not go on readiness, a message appears something like “system error: off / on. a printer". I also thought that everything is simple because with the same error, the same printers have already brought, the result - the heating lamp burned out. I noticed that recently they began to bring Sam / Xer printers with a burned out lamp, it seems to be understandable: it often turns on and off during operation (it was just that this was not the case before, and devices of about the same year of manufacture ¯_ (ツ) _ / ¯ ) During the repair process, it turned out that the lamp and the fuses were intact, and the reason was not a contact in the thermo unit connection socket:Looks like the face of a robot with square eyes) The “teeth” of the robot are the contacts of the thermal sensor, the “eyes” are the contacts of the lamp. Two pins were just a little covered with oxides, I was too lazy to clean them and I put the whole socket from another disassembled thermo unit.Next, the Canon LBP3110 printer, the problem is crackling when printing, jams. And here is a typical problem - wear of the thermo unit drive gear:In the photo, another printer seems to be Canon MF5730, exactly the same gear in HP 1000/1200/1300 printers and many othersInstead of teeth, the gear has thin plates, naturally there is no normal engagement with the gear of the rubber shaft of the thermo unit.I think there are several reasons for this wear: different gear material, weak pressure between the gears, wear of the thermocouple, and the manufacturer himself is not interested in the nodes to serve for a long timeKyocera ES 1370N printer. Customer complaint that the sheet comes out of the printer by about 2-3 cm and stops. This happens in about 5-15 sheets.I found out that the Teflon shaft was worn straight to the metal on one edge, but after replacing it, the malfunction remained. Having crawled through the forums on this problem, I realized that either the optocoupler for the passage of paper in the thermal unit is faulty, or the forward / backward rotation switch of the output shaft is damaged (with double-sided printing). I checked all this - the problem remained. Further, suspicion fell on the registration clutch in the gearbox. It is a pity that then I did not take enough pictures because my hands were constantly greased from gears (there is a mechanism that is not easy to disassemble)Further repair of НР Р2035. They printed until the last: after the thermal film broke, the rubber shaft broke, they stopped only when the printer began to jam the paper, the result: repairs for something about 3000 rubles, and it could be more if the heating element burned out (gray strip on photo) The photo shows that even the paper turned black from the temperatureIf you open the rear door of the printer after a paper jam and notice such pieces of rubber roller or thermal film (sometimes they fall into the tray or at the exit from the printer), then turn off the printer and carry it to repair so that you will not spend even more on repairs.Often, in HP / Canon printers, it is necessary to replace the bearings (bushings) of the rubber shaft of the fuser unit. They are made of heat-resistant plastic, in shape they can be left and right as half rings or one half ring, and the other on the gear side of the rubber shaft with a loop from scrolling in place.Ball bearings familiar to many are also put into printers, but the price of such devices is usually several times higher. In the upper right corner of the photo, it broke when trying to get it - it was completely erased. Often they wear out unevenly, in which case a distortion occurs and the thermal film slides towards the worn one and over time its edge breaks. Also, when they wear out, the clamp between the rubbers. the roller and the heating element becomes smaller, which is why the toner does not adhere well to the sheet (the image is erased if you slide your finger over it). On the left side of the photo are two red bearings from canon 3110/3220/5730 and similar. The trick is that the one that is higher in our country is around 200 rubles, and with a loop it is already almost 900 rubles. (!) The wholesale price will certainly be lower, but still I do not understand what exactly is its high price, can any of the pikabushniks know?The next Brother 7xxx series printer seems to be and the most common problem is poor print quality. It happens that a client calls and asks: "Why is my printer doing there?" Well, I don't like these printers, my parents have a DCP-7030R at home, my father rarely prints and all the rules, and in an organization where you need to print a lot, they constantly bring them with poor print quality. When I just started working in the service I tried to somehow fix the cartridge, clean it there, replace the photo roll, sometimes it seems to help, but more often, or when checking, the same thing again, or then a dissatisfied client will bring it again. The most reliable thing is to buy a new cartridge stupidly and not to steam. Moreover, the compatible cartridge is not much worse than the original, and the price is 3 times lessThe cartridge itself consists of two parts: a toner cartridge (TN) and a photo cartridge (Drum). The photo shows a disassembled Drum without a photo. In general, cartridges themselves are consumables and manufacturers try to make them disposable in their own way, because this is just a gold mine for them. Someone, for example, puts chips with protection, which are blocked after printing a certain number of sheets, and Brother uses a mechanism instead of chips, which, in principle, is easy to reset to 0, in addition, they took some parts from the printer into the cartridge and made it as disposable as possible ... On average, 4-5 refills and the toner cartridge starts to crumble, and then the dram starts to print badly. As I said before, cleaning and repairing the cartridge does not always help. You can clean the toner cartridge (completely empty out the old toner, invigorate the seals, clean the magnetic roller, metering and cutting blade), but with the drum it is more difficult.As we understood, charge leakage begins and that's it.Next comes the HP M400 printer - another example of how a manufacturer strives for disposable cartridges. Customer complaint: the printer breaks the teeth of the drive coupling for rotation of the photo roll (by the way, the cartridges are original)Fortunately, the clutch is available, and it can be removed from the decommissioned ones. The trick is that on previous models with the same fotoval drive unit, such garbage was not observed. If you pull out / insert the cartridge, the printer starts to rotate the shafts, but sometimes the clutch slips and over time the clutch breaks. I had to work on a collective farm with a gear cover so that the clamping of the clutch and the drives was tighter)True, then, after about 3-4 months, the client brought it again with the same trouble (and they print a lot). There are no further kolkhoz photos - another person took up the printer. In addition to this jamb, the printer has a dull touch display and log firewood - you wait almost an hour for installation, it reaches 99% and an error occurs that the installation takes too long, restart the computer (if there is firewood installed on the same printer, remove them completely and start the installation again)Next on the list is the Toshiba e18 MFP. Quite a popular model with a reasonable price for an A3 paper machine. The client says he is jamming the paper in the fuser with an accordion. The client is to blame for this - when a jam occurs, the paper must be removed carefully, otherwise the seats of the paper separator fingers can be easily broken:You can, of course, try to fix it with a thin drill, wire or paper clips (if you glue something, then with a special high-temperature glue, which we do not have 🙂), but in such cases we usually suggest replacing the entire lid of the thermo unit, there is no other way. If the printer displays a message about the need for service (after about 75 thousand pages) and the print quality suits you, the error can be easily reset, but still sometimes you look inside to see if everything is okay with it. By the way, I recently screwed up a lot with another Toshiba) I replaced the Teflon shaft, began to assemble it back, and at the stage of tightening the fastening screws of one of the heating lamps pulled my hand that broke the tip with the contact of the lamp (I'm a fool, I'm used to using an electric screwdriver, but it was necessary to tighten the usual one carefully) Naturally, there is no way to repair it, and the lamps removed from the old devices have disappeared somewhere. Fortunately, the boss did not swear much, advised him to look into the thermo unit of the old decommissioned model of Toshiba, which had been standing in the corner for a long time. I was lucky - although there was only one lamp, instead of two in the 18th, it matched the broken one in terms of parameters.That's all for today, I think it's time to finish) Why didn't I have inkjet printers in my post? There was a time when our service refused to repair them altogether. there was little exhaust from them. Recently, they decided to take them again, but only to eliminate problems not related to print quality is a dirty business, and there is no guarantee of work (maximum start cleaning nozzles). Usually we reset errors, remove jams, change pick rollers, “diapers” and so on. Instead of cats at the end - fsh with Pikabu from which I blasted out loudly at work: Mitka Makkonokhov and Zhorik LetovWhat I liked while working in the SC was the repair of printers / copiers. Although I started with a banal PC repair, then laptops, navigators, etc. As a result, I slowed down on the printer equipment, and for the last three years I have only been repairing it. Now I will explain a little to those who do not know:1. It is much more interesting (and even more difficult) to repair a printer than computers and laptops (it’s not just me about laptop BGA soldering, etc. a child can handle soldering at a thermal soldering station).2. Variety of breakdowns, each printer is something new and a drop of experience. Yes, there are repetitive repairs, but their percentage is not as large as when repairing PCs / laptops.There are instances (immediately the cold ran through the body) with which you f * ck for several days and knowing exactly the node in which the malfunction (from personal experience - SHARP, I picked it up for three days, as a result - on the gear already when measuring the gear it turned out that the teeth were licked evenly by 1 - 1.5 mm.) For 10 years of work experience in the SC, I have not yet seen a single laptop and PC which would take more than 2-3 hours to diagnose. 3. Each printer is endowed with a magical mind. And if you do not say at the end of the assembly and before the test check the phrase: “Well, bitch, just try to fuck, I won’t fucking disassemble you for the third time” - then there is a possibility that I didn’t finish something. The most important thing is communication with the printer, you have to feel it so to speak. ~~(to know in which case in which area to get off the feet)~~.4. Incredible thrill when everything works. Especially the buzz is obtained from the repair of the mechanical part (~~there is the fiercest pi * ets just~~).5. Copiers (these are such big hellish office machines) are the raisins for an employee of the SC. Since this is the same printer, only there are more details - ask where are the raisins? For the price of repair, they are charged 10 times more expensive.And finally, I would like to end with the following phrase: you can't just pick up and assemble so as not to leave extra bolts.The Master's Secret shares his successful experience in repairing a laser printer HP LaserJet 1010. The manual is suitable for HP LJ printers of the 1000 - 1200 series. The story is simple, the bought used printer (for 1000 rubles) worked for a year and was stupidly damaged by a sheet with a paper clip, it got dirty and began to rustle - it broke thermal film. Damage to the thermal film is easily confirmed by installing a replacement cartridge. Contacting the service center meant paying for repairs at least at the price comparable to buying a new printer. I also spurred the search for thermal film for the printer, sellers offered to buy thermal film at an unrealistic price of up to 1,500 rubles (its red price100 rubles), plus the tricks of sellers in the absence of thermal grease in the repair kit and the sale of this component for repair also at an order of magnitude overpriced.The thermal film was searched for within a month and was purchased for 300 rubles (2013) complete with thermal grease. Repair requires a simple tool:The repair scheme is carried out step by step in the following order.Step: 1 Check the integrity of the film and the presence of thermal grease. Pull the cartridge out of the printer. Unplug the power cord. Image - DIY cartridge repair

Step 1. Disconnect the power cord

Step 1. Remove the cartridge from the printer

Step: 2 The cartridge access cover is held in place by a rod. The stem must be separated from the cover by pressing on the inner edge of the plastic rivet. Hold the rivet while detaching.

Step: 3 Turn the printer towards you with the back cover and using a Phillips screwdriver, remove the three screws from the metal cover, two screws on the left and one screw on the right. See photo.

Step 3. Unscrew the screw on the left

Step 3. Unscrew the screws on the right

Step: 4 Remove the sides of the printer. The stacks are held in place by plastic clips that are located at the top, bottom, and back. The lid without buttons holds the strongest. Secret latches are shown in the photo.

Step 4. Wall latches with buttons

Step 4. Wall latches without buttons

Step: 5 Lift the cartridge access door and remove the two machine screws. Remove the cover.

Step: 6 Use a flat-blade screwdriver to pry up the lower right edge of the metal back cover and remove it.

Step 6. Pry off the cover with a screwdriver

Step: 7 On the side of the power connector is the power board. There are four different connectors on the top of the board, unplug them. The connector with white thick wires will be disconnected only after pressing the latch, see the photo. It is also necessary to disconnect the red wire on the back panel. Just pull it up. Remember how it is fastened preloaded by a spring. Remove the wires from the organizer clips.

Step 7: power board connectors

Step 7. Latch for the fourth connector

Step 7. Fastening the red wire

Step 7. Red wire connector

Step 7.The wires are free

Step: 8 So we got to the stove. The stove is secured with three screws. See photo. We unscrew the screws. Hold the screws while loosening.

Step 8. The first screw that secures the stove

Step 8. The second screw securing the stove

Step 8. The third screw for fixing the stove

Step: 9 Take the right edge of the stove and pull it out.

Step: 10 Unscrew the two screws securing the stove top cover. Remove the cover by pulling it to the side.

Step 10. First cover screw

Step 10. Second cover screw

Step 10. The fuser cover is removed

Step: 11 Now we see the destruction of the thermal film. Remember the position of the planks with pins and levers! There are springs on the sides of the stove, we unhook the springs from below with long-nose pliers. We remove metal strips and plastic pressure levers on each side. Do not mix them up when assembling!

Step 11. Spring securing the lever

Step 11. Remove each spring

Step: 12 We release the white wires from the clips and remove the drum with thermal film. It just goes up.

Step 12. Remove the thermal drum

Step 12. The thermal drum is removed

Step: 13 We remove with our own hands the plastic tip from the side where thin wires come out of the drum. The cap is held on by the latches.

Step: 14 Remove the damaged thermal film and wipe the metal surface and the thermocouple with a damp cloth from old grease and dirt.

Step 14. Remove the thermal film

Step: 15 Apply a new thermal grease on the surface of the stove. Install the thermal film carefully. The end of the cylinder should be fixed to the opposite plastic tip. also carefully install the right tip. It is useful to remove leaked thermal grease.

Step 15. Apply thermal grease

Step 15. Putting on the thermal film

Step 15. Remove excess thermal grease

Step: 16 Assembling the stove in the reverse order. The correct position of the planks in the photo.

Step 16. The cover is installed

Step: 17 We put the stove in place and fasten it with three screws. We fill and connect all the wires to the connectors. Install the red wire correctly.

Step: 18 Install the back and top covers. We lift the plastic flags of the stove up during installation. so that they fit into the corresponding grooves in the cover.

Step 19. Print a test page

Step: 19 After assembling the printer, check the absence of unnecessary parts. We connect the power cord. We turn on the printer. First, we give the command to feed without paper, and then we print a test page, holding the green button a little longer. On the first few pages, grease marks may appear around the edges. The work was done unhurriedly for an hour. The money saved in such work will correspond to a salary of more than 100,000 rubles a month.

Repair such breakdowns yourself!

I myself changed dozens of thermal films for hp-I testify-it is written correctly.

Video (click to play).

And how to cheat a laser printer xerox 3140 I have a problem I bought a cartridge for it, I ran out of ink and started pouring new powder and then writes that there is supposedly no cartridge and the red diode has stopped printing and that's it / How not to tell him to cheat?

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