In detail: Karcher K 5 520 DIY repair grease from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
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Do-it-yourself car wash "Karcher" repair
Details Published on 04/09/2014 15:50 Views: 2736
I will consider the option of self-repairing the Karcher 5.20 car wash in case of one of the breakdowns that I have. Its essence lies in the fact that after about 2 years of operation, the sink suddenly stopped delivering the pressure set for it, an intermittent operation of the pump appeared and, accordingly, the pressure of the jet became intermittent.
Considering that, for objective reasons, the warranty repair of the device was excluded, I had to experiment and carry out repairs with my own hands in the garage.
I will try to describe the process in the form of a photo instruction:
- Remove the case (assembled on bolts and disassembled with a screwdriver),
- We take out a motor with a pump,
- We separate the pump from the motor (this must be done very carefully, holding the pump up, otherwise oil will pour out from the piston drive)
Now you need to remove it from the valve piston. When doing this, do not use sharp, hard tools - they can easily be scratched.
We disassemble the pump in two (in half) and again remove the valves from it (I called them that)
And now the reason for the breakdown of the apparatus becomes visible: it turned out to be a small pebble that was stuck in one of the valves. How he got there remains a mystery - the sink was always operated with a filter and there was also an additional, external filter on the water supply.
The valve also has traces of very small particles and a coating like scale (apparently hard water).
We clean all the elements inside the pump and wipe it with felt or other soft cloth (plastic valves and any abrasive can aggravate the situation).
When finished, we assemble the pump and motor in reverse order.
If oil spills, you can replace it with any compressor oil.
After such a simple procedure, the car wash works like new.
Based on materials from the site:
Forum / Tools and equipment / High pressure washer problems
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Usually, when the water is supplied and we turn on the sink to the outlet, the pump turns on for a second, as if creating pressure in some receiver. After that, from the button on the sprayer, the unit actually starts up, the compressor works and the water flies in the given direction.
This time, everything went differently: the pump is not limited to one time, but “growls” with a frequency of an hour hand, about once every two seconds. The impression is that somewhere inside there is a leak, and you need to constantly pump up water. After pressing the button on the sprayer, the sink is already working normally, but when you release it, these periodic starts again.
Tell me in which direction to dig in this case, where could there be a malfunction? The warranty has expired a long time ago.
at 22:17
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Karcher car washes are a popular type of modern cleaning equipment that has become widespread, largely due to its reliability and durability.
Nevertheless, these car washes - just like any other equipment - inevitably wear out during operation, which over time can lead to its breakdown. Specialists who carry out the repair of Karcher car washes identify the following main malfunctions.
The most common problem is a decrease in the performance of the car wash pump. A drop in operating pressure is directly related to it, leading to a decrease in the efficiency of the washing equipment. The reason for the drop in pressure, as a rule, is the wear of the stuffing box seals available in the pumping unit of the Karcher car wash. This wear can be natural (associated with long-term operation); it can also be caused by poor water quality and the presence of abrasive particles. A symptom that allows you to identify the described malfunction is the appearance of puddles of water under the car wash. This signal should not be neglected: a problem that occurs can lead to even more serious consequences. The wear process will develop on an incremental basis, while high pressure water can destroy the oil seal and break into the crankcase of the drive mechanism. The oil in the crankcase will turn into a foamed composition and will not be able to fulfill its lubricating function. Obviously, the repair of a car wash in this case will turn out to be a much more costly event than if you contact a service center in a timely manner.
The failure of the Karcher car wash can be associated with such malfunctions as wear of the rubber rings of the pressure regulator or bypass valves, as well as damage to the hoses. Symptoms such as:
- decrease in the recoil force of the pistol at the moment the car wash is turned on;
- decrease in the density of the liquid stream;
- decrease in its detergency.
Any of the listed symptoms is a reason for immediate contact with a specialized service center.
The Karcher car wash problems listed in this article are common, but, alas, they are far from the only ones. It is good news that the professionals of service centers these days successfully eliminate almost any defects, completely restoring the performance of car washes.
Why does the Karcher not gain pressure and work in jerks with the cutter on?
The problem can affect most budget sinks, for example KARCHER K 3, 5.200 and others.
Karcher can work in jerks for several reasons.
- If there are air bubbles in the underwater hose, but we do not consider this issue.
- A drawdown of electricity is unlikely to give the Karcher work in jerks, although this is also possible.
- The main reason is the pressure valve. When the cutter was connected, my Karcher worked at intervals of a second - it turned on and off. All other problems (drawdown of electricity, airiness of the system) are excluded and checked. If everything is in order with this, most likely the spring of the water pressure valve is out of order. The valve is responsible for stabilizing the Karcher pressure and turning off the electric motor. If the karcher works in jerks at short intervals, this is most likely the reason.
The valve spring is made of stainless steel and tends to sag after some time of intensive use. Now, to turn on the valve (and turn off the engine), you need a much lower pressure, because the spring has sagged. The cutter turns on, the pressure rises sharply, the valve turns off the engine, the pressure drops, it turns on again and so on in jerks at intervals of 1 second. With the usual Karcher nozzle, everything is fine, the pressure there is not so great.
In this video - a more detailed explanation of getting rid of Karcher jerks.
First, let's take a look at Karcher 5.20
take out the valve
Here is the problematic Karcher pressure relief valve, the spring of which prevents us from living
There are several options to solve the problem.
But the original spring is needed - made of stainless steel, since the valve is always wet, and corrosion in this place is not allowed - otherwise it will jam. Hence the disadvantage - there are no good stainless steel springs)
stretch the spring mechanically. I didn't succeed, the spring lost its rigidity.
After stretching under compression, it took on its original shape.
you need to twist a millimeter by 1.5 -2 from the original.
for this we clamp the Karcher valve in a vice so as not to let it turn
We disassemble it with pliers. The valve is threaded, so force is required. In a vice, you need to squeeze accordingly.
Here is this stainless steel spring
We file the tip of the screwed part of the valve on the grindstone by 1.5 - 2 mm to begin with
We tighten the spring. Putting the Karcher in reverse order.
LUBRICATE THE SPRING AND VALVE WITH SILICONE GREASE
If the jerks remain, you need to tighten the spring.
If the karcher works and does not turn off, then the spring is squeezed and the valve is clamped. You need to let go a little.
You may need to disassemble and assemble several times until you fully configure. Remember to RELEASE GUN PRESSURE and DISCONNECT FROM MAINS before each disassembly.
now the karcher cutter works fine - without jerking
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The sink began to work intermittently and there is no pressure. What to do? How to fix a Karcher sink with your own hands?
The reason you described may lie in the incorrect operation of the water pump. To fix it, you need to: first of all, turn off the power supply, then remove the plastic casing (case) and get close to the pump itself. The pump should be removed and disassembled in detail, this is the only way you can determine the cause. Wear of O-rings and much more visually immediately after disassembly, all defects are clearly visible. Often, solid particles get into the water, which can disrupt the operation of the pump. When the pump is disassembled
when all the parts are removed, they need to be put in warm water with citric acid so that all the old grease goes away. Then wipe everything thoroughly and replace every part with defects.
You write that there is no pressure, most likely the reason is in this bypass valve
But I will immediately emphasize that there are quite a few models of Karcher high-pressure washers, the reasons for breakdowns are even more, because the technique is rather complicated.
Correct diagnosis is 90% of the repair success.
The valve that I wrote about above can stick, the reason is dirt.
Sometimes it is enough just to rinse it, clean it and lubricate it, this is a collapsible unit, it is better to take a branded Karcher lubricant, in our case we need silicone lubricant.
We remove the casing (usually it is 8 bolts), put the device lying down with the wheels up.
Next, we remove the pipe (plastic), here you need a hex key, it is held on three bolts.
We take out the valve itself with pliers.
Examined, rubbed, want to disassemble into components.
Lubricated, assembled the sink in reverse order and started it.
If everything is in order, then we have managed with small efforts (investments); if not, we change the valve to a new one.
When reassembling, check the mesh filter, it is located in the branch pipe (see above), the mesh may be torn due to this, dirt gets on the valve.
The filter is only cleaned, it is not repaired, if it is torn, we buy a new one and replace it.
If there are interruptions in work in Karcher, as you correctly noticed this may occur due to a loss of pressure, then the water supply stops until the device reaches the required pressure and so on constantly.
As I noticed, there can be several reasons, at least two.
You should not go straight into the water pump, first you need to look at the contamination of the filter and the water supply system in general, it is quite possible that there is simply no access to water.
If everything is normal with pollution, or rather everything is clean, then check the tightness of the system, there is a possibility that the pressure is being released due to water leakage from the system, perhaps the hose just cracked or the cuff is leaking.
If the first two examinations did not reveal anything, then the water pump is diagnosed and repaired.
They call it correctly - pump.
I personally recommend installing a new pump assembly, due to the fact that in the old one there may be a production and replacement of a repair kit will not work.
Yes, and at a price there is not much difference, so the pump costs from 2000 to 5000 steering wheels, if assembled, and repair kits from 1000 to 4000 rubles.
To choose a pump, you need to know the Karcher model, and in some cases, how it looks.
Here is an example of replacing the pump for the karcher k 4.75 model
The first mini-sink was presented to me 10 years ago, it was K2.01, but it seemed to me not enough and I bought myself a K5.55. And then one day she stopped turning on, I took her to the service, where I paid 2500 rubles for & # 171, valve replacement & # 187 ,. When this happened again the other day I decided to figure out what was wrong there.
To disassemble you need to have a Phillips screwdriver, an asterisk. hexagons Preferably in the form of bits, with a large extension. Well, the screwdriver will speed up the action. Do not forget to disconnect the appliance from the power supply and water 🙂
I took off the wheels, the handle, the lining, and disassembled the body. Next, you need to remove the clamp that secures the motor to the body. & # 171, Manometric shut-off valve & # 187, is located under the plastic nipple; to remove it, you need to pull out two pins with slots with pliers. But you can't get the valve, you can only assess its condition & # 171, runs & # 187, or & # 171, hangs & # 187 ,.
Further more interesting: you need to unscrew 4 large hexagons on the body, which will lead us to & # 171, pistons & # 187 ,. we do not need anything from them, but by disconnecting the case, you can remove the electrical unit and divide the lower part.
Found a valve tip pressing against a disconnect switch? Not moving? We knock out!
And now you have in your hands & # 171, valve & # 187, for 50 euros
They say this valve hangs on detergents (there is a special nipple on this sink for supplying all kinds of shampoos, and they are just fed through the plastic nipple into the chamber with the valve). Maybe so, maybe not, but yes, I applied the foam before the breakdown. It is worth buying a foam nozzle (it costs less than 1000 rubles) and everything will be ok. Lately, I often hear & # 8212, buy a cat and give a shit. I don’t know, I like products that are pleasant to disassemble and assemble, which generally make sense & # 171, repair & # 187 ,, and not easier to throw away. My sink, designed by white people for white people, has been in use for over 5 years and will continue to serve. And by white people, I mean real engineers, whose creations you will not get access to for & # 171, three times cheaper in Auchan & # 187, never.
All the best, with the pictures it would have been better, but the hands were dirty, and the head was busy with something else.
Many thanks to Vladimir for the photo!
Karcher Karcher K5.55 valve does not turn on repair
I bought it in 2010. Worked well for 2 years. Then you need to constantly disassemble and clean the valve from acidification, it really just infuriates. He can refuse when he pleases. I don’t know anymore how to throw it out or upgrade it. For services & # 8212, just paradise & # 8212, only have time to earn money on this problem. Tried all the lubricants & # 8212, complete nonsense. Bought a foam nozzle three years ago & # 8212, the problem persists. Disassemble again tomorrow. For the season I disassemble twice. Moreover, it happens that the floor of the car is washed and does not turn on further. maybe you don't use the same problem for a week.
As if I am not acting as a lawyer for firm K, I just described my personal experience. Your experience, as I see it, is completely different. I think people reading this post will benefit from your information. You can also supplement your story with such details as the model of the sink and the mode of operation (density of use). You also said that you quite often disassemble your sink, and a few pictures of the disassembly-assembly process and the problematic unit itself would be very useful to my post. Thank you.
Model 5.55. I use it differently, as it is understandable depends on the rains. Twice a week in autumn, less in summer. I use a foam nozzle. That year in July it was dry, in August I decided to wash & # 8212, the start-stop valve turned sour. It started up normally since winter, two weeks well, and yesterday the floor of the car stopped again. In general, how lucky. There are photos, but I don't know how to attach them.
