Abac compressor DIY repair

The compressor is a rather complex technical equipment, as it is used, it has the right to wear out and break down. In this article, we will consider all the methods of maintenance and operation to maximize its life. Execute DIY compressor repair, if he still broke, perhaps.

The reliability of compressor equipment largely depends on timely and quality maintenance. A large number of piston compressor breakdowns are the result of poor-quality cleaning of the compressed air (abrasive dust, water, and other inclusions). Application and timely replacement and cleaning of filter elements will delay compressor repair for a long time.

The main reasons why a reciprocating air compressor fails are:

• Unfavorable operating conditions
• Scheduled maintenance is not performed
• Not competent service personnel

To ensure high-quality maintenance, operation and repair of the compressor with your own hands, it is necessary to solve all the above points.

The main difference between maintenance and compressor repair is that during repairs, certain parts are forcibly replaced, and during maintenance, parts are replaced as needed, depending on their actual condition.

A compressor is a device for increasing the pressure and moving gas to the required source (spray gun, grinders, wrenches, airbrushes and any other pneumatic equipment). The main equipment in demand in body repair has become a piston compressor, oil type. In piston, the volume of the working chambers is changed by means of reciprocating pistons.

They have a different number of working cylinders and distinguish them according to the following structural arrangement:

• Horizontal
• Vertical
• Opposed
• Rectangular
• V and W shaped
• Star-shaped

Before doing compressor repairs with your own hands, you need to study its technical structure. The photo below shows a diagram of a single-stage compressor, piston group.

1. Crankshaft
2. Frame
3. Connecting rod
4. Piston pin
5. Piston
6. Cylinder
7. Valve
8. Cylinder head
9. Valve plate
10. Flywheel
11. Oil seals
12. Crankshaft bearings

On the case near the electric motor there is an automation unit called a pressure switch. It can be used to adjust the compressor. It is possible to lower the pumped pressure or increase it.

If any defects are found (the appearance of knocking, jamming of rubbing parts, strong heating, increased consumption of lubricant, etc.), it is necessary to make repairs.

It is important to establish the definition of the type and volume of repairs at the stage of diagnosing the state of the object before repairs. Compressor malfunctions can be divided into two groups: technical malfunctions (working part of the piston group and malfunctions of electrical equipment). Below are the most common breakdowns:

• Compressor (motor) does not start
• The electric motor hums and does not rotate
• Compressor not picking up speed
• Knock in the cylinder-piston group
• The cylinder is too hot
• Performance has dropped
• Strong vibration

The compressor will not turn on, the most common problem. The main and trivial thing that can be in this breakdown is that there is no voltage in the network. The first thing to check is the plug and wire for an open circuit supplying the electric motor.Using a special “tester screwdriver”, check whether all phases are energized. Check the fuse, if present. Make sure that the starting capacitors are working (for single-phase compressors, the voltage is 220V).

Pay attention to the pressure level in the tank (receiver). Perhaps the pressure is sufficient and the automation does not start the compressor, as soon as the pressure drops to a certain level, the electric motor will start automatically. This is not a breakdown, many people forget about this nuance and worry ahead of time.

The check valve can also become a problem if the compressor does not turn on. Also, a faulty automation unit (pressostat) affects the breakdown (on, off), the button on the unit itself may have become unusable.

If the electric motor does not start, hums, hums does not pick up the required speed, or stops during operation, this does not always mean its breakdown.

The main malfunctions of the electric motor that can interfere with its correct uninterrupted operation:

• Low motor power (insufficient mains voltage)
• Loose connections, poor contact
• The check valve is out of order (leaking), thereby creating back pressure
• Incorrect starting of the compressor (see operating instructions)
• Piston group jammed (due to lack of oil level, overload)

If the electric motor of the compressor does not turn on at all and does not make sounds, then this indicates the following:

• Mains supply fuse tripped
• Overload protection tripped
• Poor electrical connection (wiring problems)
• The worst thing is that the electric motor burned out (there is often a characteristic smell)

One of the reasons for compressor breakdown is a faulty piston group. It is quite easy to recognize a defect in this system. They are usually accompanied by thumping, crashing, grinding and other sounds of a metallic nature. If the compressor knocks, then its discharge part is faulty, where there are many metal parts that interact with each other. Due to their friction and wear, there are extraneous noises and unpleasant sounds.

You should not start with such a breakdown; if possible, it should be eliminated as soon as you heard the first signs of their manifestation. The main faults if the compressor starts to knock and work loudly than before:

• Crashed bearings, connecting rod bushings
• The bearings on the crankshaft are out of order.
• Worn out piston, rings, finger on the piston
• Cylinder worn out
• Loose cylinder and head bolts
• Solid particle hit the cylinder
• The cooling impeller is loose on the pulley

To repair these breakdowns, in simple cases, it is enough to stretch all the bolts and nuts. If the piston, cylinder, crankshaft or connecting rod are worn out, then a comprehensive overhaul is required. When repairing a piston group, it may be necessary to bore the cylinder, if it is badly worn and has external defects, select a repair piston according to new dimensions. Possible piston system defects are listed below:

• Changing the diameter of the piston, cylinder
• Distortion of the shape of the cylinder mirror
• Risks, scratches, scuff marks on the cylinder walls
• Cracks in the main working part
• Flange cracks and breakage

With prolonged operation, due to wear, risks appear on the cylinder mirror, the inner diameter of the bushing under the eccentric shaft increases. During repairs, the cylinders are restored by pressing the sleeves into them. Worn bushings for the eccentric shaft are replaced. This repair is quite difficult to do with your own hands without the necessary tools and equipment. Since the most time-consuming and responsible stage is the restoration of the cylinder. Boring is performed on a vertical boring machine using a special device.

As far as the cylinder is concerned, below we will consider the main malfunctions of the compressor crankcase.

• Cracks in the walls of the crankcase cavities
• Deviations in the size and shape of landing sites
• Warping of seats
• Crashed seats for crankshaft bearings

When these units are worn out, they must be replaced with new ones. The hole for the bearings is bored on a horizontal boring machine for a larger bearing diameter or for pressing the bushing, followed by boring the pressed bushing to the required diameter. Repair of a compressor of such complexity should be performed by qualified specialists.

Below, spare parts "repair kit" for the overhaul of the compressor, piston group.

If the compressor is very hot, then this signals some kind of malfunction. There can be several reasons for overheating. Starting with a simple one, it is blocked the airflow to the cylinder and the crankcase. Check if the impeller is covered by foreign objects.

One of the main causes of a heating compressor is a lack of oil level. Working units work for wear, high friction is created as a result, it gets very hot. With further such work, the equipment will quickly fail. Check the oil level, if it is not enough, it is necessary to top up to the correct level.

Valve failure due to carbonized contamination or loosening. There may also be clogged air passages.

Look at the pressure level, it is possible that the automation has broken down and the compressor “threshes” to a high pressure, and this causes overheating. The safety valve may need to be repaired or replaced.

The drop in performance can be due to several reasons. Clogged, clogged air intake filter. Remove and clean the filter with compressed air or replace it. Mostly in reciprocating compressors, it is made of regular foam.

It is possible that there is an air leak somewhere. Inspect all incoming and outgoing tubing and hoses. As in the previous case, wear and malfunction of the valves are possible, this greatly affects the performance. With a sufficiently long use, the piston rings wear out, the sealing disappears. In more serious cases, the cylinder and pistons are worn, scratched or have other external defects, which leads to loss of compression and the compressor stops pumping air.

It is worth checking the tension of the belt connecting the electric motor and the crankshaft of the piston system. When loose, slippage is possible and the compressor stops pumping air properly.

If oil gets into the working chamber, bad enough signs, of course, this will not lead to complete failure of the compressor, but it can very much harm the painting work and the occurrence of defects during painting. The main reasons for oil getting where it does not need: Filled with low viscosity oil, that is, the oil is too liquid, it seeps through the seals and rings. The oil level is too high. Due to the excess oil, it is squeezed out with force and enters the chamber. Incorrect oil used. Fill with special compressor oil only.

The piston and rings in the cylinder block are worn out. Also, the wear of the cylinder itself affects the ingress of oil into the working chamber. To eliminate the malfunction, it is required to repair the compressor of the piston group, which are described above.

A reciprocating compressor, like any technical equipment, requires certain maintenance. Proper use will help extend the life of your compressor equipment. Consider the main activities for the maintenance, repair and operation of the compressor.

1. Replacing and cleaning the air filter. The filter element is mainly made of non-woven material, foam rubber or synthonin.If the compressor is located in the same place where the car is painted, then it becomes heavily clogged (sticks) with dust from paint, varnish and other paint and varnish material. The filter prevents abrasive dust from entering the cylinder, the piston and cylinder wear less. Change and clean the filter as often as possible, as this will significantly increase the resource and delay the repair of the compressor.

2. Oil change is a very important point. Watch the oil level on a special indicator (window) in the compressor crankcase. Operating at a low level or without oil will result in major overhauls. Top up to the required level if it is not enough. Periodically, it is necessary to completely drain and fill in new. Use only special compressor oil. Oil for piston compressor Mobil, Fubug, Shell VDL 100, КС 19, 46 or any other branded oil.

3. Condensate drain. An important point in compressor maintenance. The air is saturated with moisture, it inevitably enters the receiver with the intake air. Over time, it accumulates in large quantities. With a high content of condensate, it can be thrown into the air hoses, which leads to defects during painting. Also, due to condensation, corrosion begins inside the receiver. Drain off condensation as often as possible, at least once a week, especially during hot and humid seasons.

4. Monitor the general condition, periodically blow out dust and other contaminants. Pay special attention to the impeller on the electric motor, cylinder fins, air cooler, as they are used, dust and paint dust adhere to them, which reduces the cooling capacity.

5. Inspect the belt drive for wear and tension. When pressing on the belt at the midpoint, it should not bend by more than 12-15 mm. Broach all nuts and bolts. Periodically check the function of the safety valve, which serves to protect against overpressure due to a breakdown of the pressure switch.

Follow all of the above methods and you will delay the repair of the compressor for a long time.

There are situations when the air compressor, peacefully rattling by the engine in the corner of the garage, starts to malfunction, or even turns off altogether. And at this moment, as luck would have it, there is a need for it. Do not be afraid, after studying theoretical information, repairing a compressor with your own hands will not seem like something unattainable.

The main purpose of air compressor units is to create a continuous, uniform jet of compressed air. The dense gas stream is then driven by various pneumatic tools. These can be airbrushes, tire inflation guns, wrenches, cutting machines, pneumatic chisels, nailers, and more. In the minimum configuration, the compressor unit is equipped with a supercharger (an engine that creates an air flow) and a receiver (a container for storing compressed gas).

Compressors with a piston system electric motor have found the greatest application in car repair shops. In the supercharger crankcase, the transfer rod moves along the axis back and forth, giving the oscillatory moment to the reciprocating movement of the piston with O-rings. The bypass valve system located in the cylinder head works in such a way that when the piston moves downward, air is taken from the inlet pipe, and upward - it is returned to the outlet pipe.

The gas flow is directed to the receiver, where it is compacted. Due to its design, the blower produces an uneven air stream. Which is not applicable to spray gun use. A kind of condenser (receiver) saves the situation, which smooths out the pressure pulsations, giving out a uniform flow at the outlet.

A more complex design of the compressor unit implies the attachment of additional equipment designed to provide automatic operation, dehumidification and humidification.And if in the case of a simple execution it is easy to localize a malfunction, then the complication of the equipment execution complicates the search. The following are the most common faults and remedies for the most common piston-type compressed gas systems.

To make it easier to find the problem, all defects can be classified by the nature of the malfunction:

• Compressor unit blower does not start
• Compressor motor hums but does not pump air or fills air reservoir too slowly
• At start-up, the thermal protection circuit breaker is triggered or the mains fuse is blown out.
• When the blower is turned off, the pressure in the compressed air tank drops
• Thermal protection circuit breaker periodically trips
• Exhaust air contains a lot of moisture
• Engine vibrates violently
• Compressor runs intermittently
• Air flow is consumed below normal

Let's consider all the causes of the problems and how to fix them.

If the engine does not start and does not hum, then the supply voltage is not applied to it. First of all, using an indicator screwdriver, check the presence of "zero" and "phase", as well as the reliability of the plug-to-socket connection. In case of poor contact, measures are taken for a tighter fit. If there is 220 V at the input of the circuit, the fuses of the compressor unit look.

Failed ones are replaced by passive protection devices of the same rating as defective ones. In no case are hot-melt inserts designed for a higher electric current allowed. If the fuse blows again, you should find out the cause of the failure - probably a short circuit at the input of the circuit.

The second reason why the unit does not start is that the pressure control relay in the receiver is faulty or the level settings are out of order. To check, gas is released from the cylinder and the supercharger is tested. If the engine is running, the relay is reset. Otherwise, the defective part is replaced.

Also, the engine will not start when the thermal overload circuit breaker is triggered. This device turns off the power supply circuit of the winding of the electrical device in case of overheating of the piston system, fraught with seizure of the motor. Let the blower cool down for at least 15 minutes. After this time has elapsed, restart it.

With an underestimated mains voltage, the electric motor does not master the scrolling of the axis, while it will hum. With this malfunction, first of all, we check the voltage level in the network using a multimeter (it must be at least 220 V).

If the voltage is normal, then the pressure in the receiver is probably too high, and the piston does not overpower the pushing of air. In this case, manufacturers recommend setting the “AUTO-OFF” automatic switch to the “OFF” position for 15 seconds and then moving it to the “AUTO” position. If this does not help, then the pressure control switch in the receiver is faulty or the bypass (check) valve is clogged.

You can try to eliminate the last drawback by removing the cylinder head and cleaning the channels. Replace the defective relay or send it to a specialized center for repair.

Compressor start-up is accompanied by blown fuse or activation of automatic thermal protection

This malfunction occurs if the installed fuse is below the recommended rated power or the supply network is overloaded. In the first case, we check the compliance of the permissible currents, in the second, we disconnect part of the consumers from the electric main.

A more serious cause of the malfunction is incorrect operation of the voltage relay or breakdown of the bypass valve. We bypass the relay contacts according to the scheme, if the engine is running, then the actuator is faulty. In this case, it is more advisable to contact an official service center for technical support or replace the relay yourself.

A drop in compressed air pressure indicates that there is a leak somewhere in the system. Risk areas are: high pressure air line, piston head check valve or receiver outlet cock. We check the entire pipeline with a soapy solution for air leaks. We wrap the detected defects with sealing tape.

The drain cock may leak if not properly closed or defective. If it is closed all the way, and the soapy solution is bubbling on the spout, then we change this part. When screwing in a new one, do not forget to wind up the fum tape on the thread.

In the case of tightness of the air line and the exhaust valve, we conclude that the compressor control valve is not working correctly. For further work, be sure to bleed all the compressed air from the receiver! Next, we continue to repair the compressor with our own hands, disassembling the cylinder head.

If there is dirt or mechanical damage to the bypass valve, we clean it and try to fix the defects. If the malfunction is not eliminated, then we replace the control valve.

This defect occurs when the power supply voltage is too low, the air flow is poor, or the room temperature is too high. We measure the voltage in the network using a multimeter; it must be at least the lower limit of the range recommended by the manufacturer.

Poor air flow into the discharge system is due to a clogged inlet filter. The filter should be replaced or washed according to the unit's maintenance manual. The piston engine is air-cooled and often overheats when in a poorly ventilated area. The problem is solved by moving the compressor unit to a room with good ventilation.

This situation occurs under the following conditions:

• Large accumulation of moisture in the receiver
• Air intake filter dirty
• The humidity in the room of the compressor unit is increased

Moisture in the output stream of compressed air is fought by the following methods:

• Drain excess fluid from the cylinder regularly
• Clean or replace the filter element
• Move the compressor unit to a room with drier air or install additional filter-moisture separators

In general, piston engines are prone to high vibration. But, if the previously relatively quiet compressor unit begins to rumble, there is a high probability that the engine mounting screws are loosened or the material of the vibration cushions is worn out. This malfunction is eliminated by pulling all fasteners in a circle and replacing the polymer vibration isolators.

Interruptions in the operation of the engine can be caused by incorrect operation of the pressure control switch or too intensive extraction of compressed air.

Excessive gas consumption occurs due to a discrepancy between the compressor capacity and the power consumption. Therefore, before buying a new pneumatic tool, carefully study its characteristics and air consumption per unit of time.

Consumers should not take more than 70% of the compressor capacity. If the power of the blower with a margin overlaps the requests of the pneumatic tools, then the pressure switch is faulty. We either repair it or replace it with a new one.

This malfunction occurs as a result of a gas leak in the high pressure system or a clogged air intake filter. Air leakage can be minimized by pulling all butt joints and wrapping them with sealing tape.

Sometimes it happens that when draining condensate from the receiver, they forget to completely close the drain valve, which also leads to a gas leak. This problem is easy to solve - by tightly closing the valve. If the dust filter is clogged, clean it or, even better, replace it with a new one.

Most of the above malfunctions can be avoided by correctly carrying out the first start-up and running-in of the mechanisms, as well as performing regular routine maintenance.

In order for the device to function properly for a long time, the recommended maintenance should be started at the initial stages of operation. Experts recommend the following actions from the date of purchase:

Timely observance of these simple requirements will keep the mechanism in good condition. Such a time-consuming procedure as repairing a compressor with your own hands will be required extremely rarely. Proper grounding will avoid problems with the electrical part of the device. Regular replacement of oil and cleaning filters will prevent premature wear of rubbing parts.

The compressor grunted in the summer. It doesn't matter which one.
Services without looking, over the phone, estimated the repair at 1.5-2.0 thousand rubles.
I realized that the compressor itself was jammed. The motor hums cannot crank.

I disassemble, it is. Forming in oil. I remove the head, with rings, a piston and a cylinder, complete order.
I take it off the crankshaft, we arrived, badass on the liner.
Since the lubricant is natural (bathroom), then the liner is luminous.
I sand it, change the oil, everything is in order.

Background.
The compressor threshed all day in the heat, stood tilted back.
Oil starvation has done its job.

So everything is extremely simple there.
Change the oil more often and place the compressor evenly, there is nothing to break there.
Yes, and do not forget to drain the condensate.

Satanas wrote:
So everything is extremely simple there.

You are verbatim retelling the Operating Instructions.
Some people, including myself, read it right after purchase, but before using it for the first time.

Satanas thanks for the reminder. Today I finally checked the oil and drained the condensate.

There is nothing to break - oh, if only. But I also spent about the same amount of time on repairs.
The picture buzzes, pumps instead of 8 atmospheres 3 maximum. She removed the cover - one of the plate valves in half. I cut out a plate from a spatula (it could have been from a probe), put it on - it works.

And also from the head not stretched out in time (according to the instructions), it punches the gasket between the head and the valve body.
And the thermals are also turned off, a triple dose of oil is poured. and the most favorite of all is to twist the pressure switch.

Suddenly the compressor stopped pumping at all. 🙁 That is, everything works, but there is no pressure. The cause was a grain of sand under the intake valve. And the repair boiled down to wiping the valve on a new shirt. :-R

Satanas wrote:
Change the oil more often and place the compressor evenly, there is nothing to break there.
Yes, and do not forget to drain the condensate.

And do not forget to drain the condensate too. Our story is the opposite of yours - they handed over the compressor to us and demanded to be repaired under warranty. In addition to the fact that the oil in it did not change and was not topped up even once, it was also found that there was half a bucket of rusty oily water in the 50-liter receiver.

He-Hemul wrote:
She removed the cover - one of the plate valves in half. I cut out a plate from a spatula (it could have been from a probe), put it on - it works.

He-Hemul wrote:
The picture buzzes, pumps instead of 8 atmospheres 3 maximum. She removed the cover - one of the plate valves in half. I cut out a plate from a spatula (it could have been from a probe), put it on - it works.

my case is direct. only I will trample him in the store .. or in the service center.
I do not know how to mess with them yet .. and there is no desire.
ideally, return it altogether. and then again then something will come up ... for Forte - Ketaysky))
undertook to paint the house .. and then, an infection, did not live.

VitaminD wrote:
undertook to paint the house .. and then, an infection, did not live.

oh well ... the foreman is what china, and it has been rattling for more than a year, primers, mastics, waterproofing, paint of various curly foam plates. shop and service, a day of hassle, and so-20 minutes of shame and further rumbles.

ruslan1111 wrote:
and so-20 minutes of shame and further rumbles.

Yes, on weekends there is not much time to repair it .. all the more, maybe that's not the point.
I will open it, I will not fix it ... and I will treat it with the guarantors)

He-Hemul wrote:
She removed the cover - one of the plate valves in half. I cut out a plate from a spatula (it could have been from a probe),

I treated the same trouble yesterday.True, at first I rode through the services, I wanted to find my own. As a result, we had to use the collective farm from the 0.2 mm probe. The width fit perfectly (10 mm), and cut it lengthwise with metal scissors. I shook it, everything is normal.

A year ago I was presented with a 100-liter ABAC, killed.
An autopsy showed that the dipstick had broken off, which sprayed oil from the crankcase along the walls. As a result of working in the oil hunger mode, the connecting rod bushings were gobbled up.
It turned out to be unrealistic to buy a new connecting rod, or even a complete steam generator, and had to work on a collective farm.
I bought two suitable needle bearings, there was no cutter of the required diameter, but I had my own CNC:

I pressed it in, everything works. It looks like the system is capable of working without oil at all, but I did not risk it

Yes, and a note to the hostess. This device has the most awful scheme - the crankshaft is on the motor, the piston is directly on it. Without gears and belts. The induction motor starts very slowly, the whole system is very sensitive to undervoltage.
To make it easier to start the motor, I decided to reduce the compression. Between the crankcase and the cylinder, I laid a gasket ring from an old oil filter from some foreign car. By extending the pins, I can, by pressing the cylinder into the rubber, reduce the volume of the working chamber, thereby increasing the compression ratio. It helped, only now from “zero to 10 atm it pumps not 3-5 minutes, but 7-10 minutes, it suits me

The main purpose of an air compressor is gas compression and continuous supply of a jet of air under pressure to pneumatic equipment and pneumatic tools. Such air is an energy carrier and ensures the operation of spray guns, airbrushes, wrenches, and a tire inflation gun.

air compressor

The listed pneumatic tool is safer to work with than a power tool, for example. The pneumatic equipment cannot have a short circuit that can lead to electric shock and fire. That is why such a tool is widely used in car repair shops or when repairing a car with your own hands.

The air compressor is applicable to households and when it stops working, it needs to be repaired. However, the repair of compressors is not particularly difficult, it is quite possible to do it yourself.

To understand the problems of a compressor, you need to clearly understand what elements it consists of and what they are intended for. The compressor, in the minimum configuration, consists of a blower (an engine that creates an air flow) and a receiver - a container that contains compressed air. Reciprocating compressors are most commonly used.

One of the main requirements for a compressor is its safety. If the pressure in the receiver is not controlled, the compressor will burn out. There is a high probability that the receiver cylinder may explode. To prevent this, the receiver is equipped with an electronic relay that automatically turns off the compressor when the air pressure reaches a certain value.

The air compressor is equipped with a pressure gauge that indicates the amount of air pressure in the cylinder. A check valve is used to protect the compressor from negative influences. Its main function is to prevent air from returning back to the compressor when the unit is turned off or otherwise interfered with.

More complex compressor designs are characterized by additional equipment such as compressor automation. Typically in small compressors, the automation unit maintains a pressure of up to eight atmospheres using a pressure switch, turning on or off the power to the electric motor when the minimum or maximum pressure in the receiver is reached.

In this case, there are two pressure gauges: the large one shows the pressure in the tank of the receiver, the small one - at the outlet. The pressure switch can be equipped with an unloading valve.When the unit is stopped, it will open, making it easier to start the engine later.

In some models, a cooling radiator is provided on the pipes for supplying air from the compressor to the receiver.

Cooling the air results in less condensation in the receiver. Such a trifle in the design extends the service life of the automation.

The presence of a drain valve allows you to quickly drain the condensate from the receiver, because it is advisable to end each operation of the unit with this operation.

The safety valve releases the increased pressure in the receiver, if for some reason the automation does not work, which protects the compressor motor from overloads.

The air filter protects the piston system from sand, dirt, paint fumes.

The following types of compressors are distinguished:

1. Volumetric action - keep gas or air in a confined space, increase pressure. Among them are:

• rotary, principle of operation - suction and compression of gas during rotation of the plates; the working volume decreases, this leads to an increase in pressure.
• piston - pressure is created by the movement of pistons and valves; reliable in operation, but noisier than rotary ones.

1. Dynamic - provide compression by increasing the speed of gas movement, increasing its kinetic energy, which is converted into compression energy. Distinguish:

• centrifugal - used for air exchange in mines;
• axial or axial.

Consider how a piston-type compressor works, air or gas in it is compressed by a piston that moves through the cylinder:

• When the piston (3) moves up the compressor cylinder (4), the working gas is compressed. The electric motor moves the piston through the crankshaft (6) and connecting rod (5).
• The suction and discharge valves are opened and closed by gas pressure.
• The diagram on the left shows the gas suction phase into the compressor. When the piston moves down, a vacuum is created in the compressor and the inlet valve (12) opens. Thus, the gas enters the compressor space.
• The right diagram shows the gas compression phase. The piston moves upwards and the outlet valve (1) opens. The gas leaves the compressor at high pressure.

scheme of work

The blower itself produces an uneven air stream, which cannot be used, for example, for using a spray gun. The receiver saves the day by smoothing out the pressure pulsations.

Having replenished the stock of information about the compressor unit, you can repair the compressor yourself. A distinction is made between the following compressor system malfunctions:

1. The compressor unit blower does not start.
2. From time to time, the thermal cut-out is triggered.
3. When the compressor starts, the thermal cut-out is triggered and the fuse is blown out.
4. The engine of the unit runs, but does not pump air into the receiver, or does it slowly.
5. When the supercharger is turned off, the pressure in the receiver drops.
6. High moisture content in the air outlet.
7. Strong vibration from the engine.
8. The compressor unit works intermittently.
9. The air flow is consumed below the norm.

There are several probable reasons why the compressor will not start..

If the unit does not start and does not hum, check the supply voltage with an indicator screwdriver. If there is a phase, the connections of the plug to the socket are normal, it is worth checking the fuses that are subject to melting.

Defective fuses are replaced with others of the same rating. New fuses with higher current ratings must not be installed. If the fuses blow repeatedly, there may be a short circuit at the input to the circuit.