Convector electrolux do-it-yourself repair

In detail: do-it-yourself electrolux convector repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Electric convector heaters have a fairly simple device. It is this fact that affects their availability and service life. But not a single technique, including heating, is insured against accidental breakdowns. Do-it-yourself repair of heating convectors, in case of equipment breakdown, will help save money in the family budget. Indeed, in order to repair the failed equipment, you do not need any complex measuring instruments and tools.

You already know that heating convectors are subdivided into devices with electronic and mechanical control. Both modifications are amenable to DIY repair. Another thing is that "Mechanics" are much easier to repair, since they are devoid of delicate electronics... From tools you will need screwdrivers and wire cutters, from measuring instruments - a multimeter or a tester. You will also need basic knowledge in the field of electrical engineering, because you will need to imagine a convector diagram in your head.

If, after disassembling, you see black carbon somewhere, then first of all pay your attention to this element.

Repair of convector heaters begins with disassembling the casings. It is necessary to carefully remove the casing, being careful not to damage anything inside. Next, we examine the insides for their integrity. If something shorted somewhere, you will definitely see it by the characteristic burnt spots - in this side there will be faulty nodes. But some malfunctions do not manifest themselves in any way.

Before we tell you how to repair convector heaters with your own hands, it is useful to recall the design of a heating convector with a mechanical thermostat:

Video (click to play).

Convector heater device with mechanical control.

Switch - provides a complete break in the electrical circuit, disconnecting the unit from the outlet;
Fuses - protect the power grid from overloads, triggered by a short circuit;
Mechanical thermostat - controls the air temperature by turning on and off the heating element of the heating convector;
Heating element - most often it is a closed-type heating element, sealed in a metal tube.

In total, we have before us almost the entire list of things that can break here. Do-it-yourself repair of such a convector is not burdened with any difficulties, you just need to understand its structure.

Carefully ring all the convector assemblies with a multimeter.

Do-it-yourself heating convector repair begins with checking the supply voltage from the mains. That is, we need to check the integrity of the cable and plug. We take a multimeter in our hands and check for the presence of electric current at the end of the supply cable. If there is nothing here, the cable or plug itself should be replaced. It would not hurt to check the outlet itself - it is quite possible that it was she who broke.

When repairing heating convectors with your own hands, do not forget to check the switch. Convector heaters are quite powerful equipment, therefore contact groups in toggle switches can spark. Over time, this leads to a complete lack of contact.... A failed toggle switch can be replaced or cleaned - disassemble it carefully, since the small parts with springs inside have the property of scattering all over the table.

If everything is fine with the switch, we continue to repair the convector with our own hands - we check the thermostat.In a cold state, its contacts are closed, so they can be easily "called" by a multimeter. If the thermostat is faulty, you should find the same unit and replace it - it will be easier this way. In some units, the thermostat is combined with a switch, so everything must be replaced at once.

If all the preliminary circuits are intact, we are left with the last suspect - this is the heating element. It is he who can become the main reason for the failure of the heating convector. Do-it-yourself repair of this unit is impossible, since the heating elements are not repaired - you need to find a similar heating element and replace it.

To determine the serviceability or malfunction of the heating element, its resistance will help:

Check the resistance of the convector heating element.

By the way, if the convector does not work due to the fact that "automatic machines" are triggered in the panel, check the resistance between the contacts of the heating element and its body (as well as the body of the entire device).

Electronic control is implemented in many heating convectors. Repairing them with your own hands is difficult, since it is simply impossible to check the control unit without special knowledge in the field of electronics and circuitry. But the attempt is not torture - let's try to at least roughly determine what is broken here.

We start repairing the convector with our own hands with the simplest ringing of the power cable coming from the outlet. We need to make sure that it is intact and that it supplies electricity to the heater. At the same time, we are convinced of the integrity of the outlet. We safely discard the faulty cable and install a new one - do not forget to choose a wire with a suitable cross-section, taking into account the power of the heating convector being repaired.

Device device with electronic control.

Next, you need to check the fuses. They can fail as a result of the breakdown of any internal components, or as a result of a voltage surge in the power supply network. We replace the burnt out fuses and turn on the equipment to the network - if everything is fine and the heating has started, we assemble the heater and install it in its original place.

If the fuses fail again, then further do-it-yourself repairs are reduced to checking the heating element - most likely, testing it will show the presence of a short circuit. Failure of the control unit is also possible. The defective heating element should be removed and discarded, replacing a serviceable unit. If the control module is the last suspect, you will have to go to the service center.

If it was not possible to repair the heating convector with your own hands, you should contact the nearest service center. You can find addresses on the Internet or in equipment passports. Authorized services can accept heaters of almost any brands for repair - these are Ballu, Nobo, Electrolux and many others. Also, in many cities there are unauthorized workshops - the prices here are a little lower, but there can be no talk of any warranty repairs here.

If the warranty has ended, then in any case, we advise you to first try to repair the heating convector with your own hands. Thanks to the extremely light internal structure, these devices lend themselves well to repair work. You just have to find spare parts and assemblies - they are sold in some workshops and in specialized online stores.

So, first, let's consider the design of the electric convector, so that you understand what will have to be checked and repaired. The heater consists of a cord with a plug, plugged into an outlet, an on / off button, a thermostat and a heating element (heating element). In addition, a thermal fuse can be located in the circuit, which protects against overheating, as well as a tilt sensor, which will turn off the power and save from fire when the mobile convector is overturned.Also, in some models, a special sensor of protection against the penetration of foreign objects into the housing can be installed.

We figured out the design, now we turn to the basics of repairing an electric heater with our own hands.

So, to make it clearer for you how to proceed, we will provide instructions step by step:

Finally, we recommend watching useful videos on the topic:

That's all that I wanted to tell you about how to repair a convector with your own hands at home. We hope the provided tips helped you in solving the problem!

It will be interesting to read:

With the onset of cold weather, you remembered that somewhere in the pantry there should be an electric convector, which perfectly complemented the central heating last winter. When connected to the network, the device does not show signs of life, although there is current in the network? This means that the reason why the convector does not want to heat the room is hidden inside the device. Do not rush to call the master - it is quite possible to repair the convector with your own hands.

Before opening the convector, you need to read the operating instructions, find a detailed diagram and study it carefully. The design of the convector is quite simple and can be understood without technical education.

Advice! Before turning on the device, it must be vacuumed, or rather blown out, directing a stream of air into the device in order to remove a layer of dust from the heating elements.

First you need to check power button, if it is in good working order, then move on: remove the front panel of the device to open access to the internal device. We visually check all the wires that fit the terminals - we are looking for traces of burning or loosening in the tightening of the fastening screws that secure the installation wires. If a screw is found that is weakened due to a stripped thread, then we change it to a new one and tighten it. We remove the detected scale, clean the wire connection point by disassembling the connection. This operation must be approached thoroughly: sand the washers and the bare part of the wire with sandpaper, then reassemble everything again by firmly tightening the screw.

Then we check with a multimeter Temperature regulator... In electric convectors of different models, it is this mechanical switch that can break.

Its task is to automatically turn off the convector when the temperature inside the device reaches the maximum temperature set by the manufacturer. The contacts of the emergency thermal limiter are always closed, which is easy to check with a probe.

Upon detection carbon deposits, it is removed, and in case of formation of shells on the contacts, they must be filed with a file, then degreased with B-70 gasoline. All operations must be done carefully so as not to break the bimetallic plate and not knock down the factory settings.

If the thermal limiter cannot be repaired, then it is necessary to replace it with a new one in order to protect yourself from various troubles associated with overheating of the electric convector.

If, in addition to the power button, the convector has other key switches for modes and the like, then you need to check their serviceability. We put the position "On", check with an ohmmeter the conductivity of each switch in turn, touching its contacts with the probes.

Having found a malfunction, you must try to remove it using the method stripping contacts, and if the breaker breaks down, replace it completely.

Checking the switch contacts

If all the switches are in good working order, the cord is intact, and the convector still does not work, then the fault here may be in the malfunction of the heating element. They are used in modern convectors from one to three at a time.

To check the integrity of such an element, we use the usual multimeter: one probe is applied to the mounting point, and the second one in turn touch the other terminals on the elements. Often a layer of scale formed or foreign contamination prevents good contact.We clean all the contacts, installation wires to a sparkling shine and repeat the measurements. When the cause of the malfunction is identified, we try to repair the heating element, if this is not possible, it must be replaced.

Heating elements are used in two types - closed and open.

Heating elements belong to this type:

spiral stretched between slats made of ceramic;
nichrome wiretwisted into a spiral with strung ceramic beads;
a ceramic rod on which a nichrome thread is tightly wound.

Separate blocks are created from open heating elements together with heat shields.

Open heating element

Such heating elements consist of a spiral enclosed in a sealed tube made of transparent glass, which perfectly transfers heat, but at the same time serves dielectric... These include hermetic tubular electric heating elements (TEN) - in them the spiral is enclosed in a steel shell, and quartz sand, tightly packed inside, serves as a dielectric.

In many imported convectors, you can find heaters that are formed by applying a conductive coating on specially hardened glass or a very thin wire woven into a heat-resistant fabric.

Closed heating element

Such elements are not repaired, but replaced with new ones from repair kitif the manufacturer has taken care of this. In the absence of spare ones, you will have to select from domestic ones - here you will already need knowledge of the basics of electrical engineering. It is better to entrust such nuances to specialists from the service center, otherwise you will have to buy a new convector instead of the one that burned out due to your lack of competence.

It is not difficult to make repairs to the convectors with your own hands if there are domestic heating elements inside. If they open type, then you can make repairs using the following method:

Remove the spiral from the bar.
Measure its length and wind a spiral of the same section from nichrome wire.
Put the spiral on the ceramic strips (put on the protective ceramic beads).
Reinstall.

At the same time, we must not forget one feature of nichrome - when heated, the thread lengthens and sags, therefore, during installation, it must be pulled a little in order to exclude dangerous contact with the metal parts of the case.

Closed views of heaters change in the same way - a burned-out spiral is removed from a sealed glass flask, and a new one is inserted instead. But first, it must be rinsed first in gasoline in order to remove the grease - only after that you can proceed to the final assembly with all the precautions.

If a heating element is installed in the convector, then your task is to accurately establish its inoperability, and replacement is even easier than in other cases. The new heating element is installed in place of the burned-out heater with the subsequent connection of the current-carrying wires.

Heating element repair

Many users are sure that they know these postulates, but in fact, convectors are often used incorrectly, which contributes to the rapid wear of expensive equipment. Follow the simple recommendations of the manufacturers - this is the key to the perfect service of the convectors for a long time.

Never cover the cabinet with clothing or a blanket - air circulation is impaired, which guarantees equipment damage.
Do not dry wet clothes on the convector - there are special folding devices for this.
For rooms with high humidity, models with the IP 24 mark must be used.
Remember that the body of the convector is not protected from mechanical stress; an external shock can break anything inside the device - from a simple sensor to an expensive heating element.
Do not use carriers that are not rated for the power of your convector, they may burn out and cause a fire.
Keep children away from the operating device to avoid accidental burns.
Do not touch the switches of the product with wet hands - the risk of electric shock increases dramatically.
Eliminate the risk of small objects falling into the convector.

The product will last a long time and will not let you down during operation, if for a period of temporary non-use during the summer period, you pack it in plastic bag and put the box in a dry place. The eternal enemy of such devices - dust - will not be able to get inside the case and accumulate on the heating elements.

To enhance the tightness - connect a vacuum cleaner to the bag for a short time, it will suck out excess air, you get 100% insulation.

From the author: hello dear friends! If you once again, freezing, pulled the convector out of the pantry and suddenly found that it does not show signs of life, it means that you will have to do some repairs. Of course, you can take him to the master, or you can simply throw it away and purchase new equipment. But this is not the most budget-friendly approach.It is much more profitable to get down to business on your own. Moreover, repairing a convector with your own hands is not so difficult. Of course, if we are talking about gas equipment, then in this case it is better to contact the master. Still, blue fuel is a source of increased danger, and therefore it is not a good idea to start working with it without proper experience.But as for the electrical varieties, then everything is much more rosy. The only safety requirement that you need to strictly observe is to first disconnect the device from the mains and make sure that there is no voltage inside it. This is done using a special indicator that you can purchase at any store at a very low cost.As for the repair procedure itself, after reading this article, you will probably be able to figure out all the nuances. Therefore, stock up on a notebook and a pen, make yourself comfortable and start reading.An electric convector consists of several elements, each of which is capable of breaking. Therefore, in the event of a malfunction in the operation of the equipment, all parts of the structure should be checked sequentially.The first thing to check is how well the structural parts are connected. It so happens that somewhere a contact has moved away or burned out, and this causes disturbances in the operation of all equipment.To inspect, it is necessary to disassemble the device. Once again, we remind you that you should first disconnect it from the power source. The check is carried out as follows.The design of the convector includes an element that monitors the temperature of the device. If it exceeds the permissible value, then, in order to avoid overheating of the equipment, the limiter automatically stops the operation of the convector.Examine the item carefully. Call its contacts with the indicator - they must be closed. If you see carbon deposits, then you need to clean it off with sandpaper. If shells are found on the contacts, then they are sawed off and then degreased with B-70 gasoline. All this must be done very carefully, since the bimetallic plate in the limiter may be damaged.If for some reason the item cannot be repaired, it should be replaced with a new one. In principle, the convector can be operated without a limiter. But this is not recommended. The equipment will not be able to turn off automatically if it overheats, and this can lead to very harmful consequences: for example, a short circuit and even a fire.In addition to the button that is responsible for turning the equipment on and off, there are sometimes other switches on the case that regulate the operating mode.If any of them breaks down, then the equipment may well stop working altogether, or it will perform its functions defectively.Therefore, it is necessary to check the functionality of each switch. This is done using an ohmmeter. Run it with a probe alternately over each contact and see if the conductivity is everywhere.

If the problem lies precisely in the state of contact, it must be cleaned with the same sandpaper. If the switch itself is broken, then it must be replaced with a new one.Let's move on to the most important thing. At the heart of any electric convector is a heating element. It is due to it that the equipment heats up and, as a result, the heat is returned to the air in the room.Heating elements in convectors are of two types:In any case, their performance is checked using a multimeter. To do this, you need to attach one of its probe to the mounting point, and the second to the other terminal in turn. If you find a problem on one of the contacts, it must be cleaned until it starts to shine. Then check the work quality again.A broken heating element can be repaired in a fairly simple way. If we are talking about an open type of heater, then it is usually a spiral wound on ceramic strips. It must be unwound, and then placed on the slats in the same way a nichrome wire of the corresponding section. Then put the heating element in place. Please note that the nichrome wire must be wound with tension in order to exclude its further sagging during heating.A closed heating element is repaired according to the same principle. It is the same spiral, but enclosed in a flask. It must be removed from there and replaced with a new one from a nichrome wire. In this case, the latter must first be rid of the lubricant - this is done with the help of gasoline.

Although such an electrical device cannot, in terms of heat transfer efficiency, replace a Russian stove and (or) a local or centralized water heating system (where it is), nevertheless, such a converter is very suitable for a country house without any special frills. If there are 8 rooms in a house, like ours, in practice it is enough to install one electric converter in each one similar to the one described below, and you will provide a comfortable thermal regime for yourself and your household, both in spring and in autumn. The electric convector model Siemens CH 06E3A11, made in Norway, was repaired.

Its positive qualities also include the possibility of adjusting the heating temperature, realized with the help of a mechanical drive (wheel) of the electric rheostat of the thermostat. The device itself is reliable and I had no complaints about its operation for more than 5 years. And, nevertheless, since the temperature regulation is carried out mechanically, a "time bomb" is laid in this area, which usually makes itself felt at the wrong time.

Work devices

The convector is switched on by a rocker switch that has two fixed positions "on." and off. The supply voltage is supplied to a 600 W heating element through a 6.5 Ohm variable thermostat resistor with high dissipation power and opening contacts.

Read also: DIY repair of mshu 125

The resistance of the heating element is constant at 80 ohms. The electric diagram of the convector is presented on fig. 1.

In the extreme position of the regulator, when the resistance of its variable resistor is close to zero, almost all supply voltage, with the exception of the voltage drop across the wires, is applied to the heating element. In this case, the minimum power is allocated to the thermostat, and it constantly supplies voltage to the heating element of the convector.

In this position, in autumn, after about 1 hour of active work 1 meter from the convector, the air temperature will be + 34 ° С. This is quite enough for heating a room with an area of up to 20 m 2 to a comfortable "room" temperature.

At the other extreme position of the variable resistor (when its resistance to electric current is maximum), the maximum power is released on the thermostat, and its contacts quite often, and for a long time, disconnect the heating element of the convector from the mains. In this case, the convector heats the air, at a distance of 1 meter from it, to a temperature of + 22 ° C.

Resistor R2 reduces sparking when the thermostat contacts are opened, and during the movement of the rheostat slider with the convector turned on. The convector's power is 600 W, which makes it possible to install several of them in a multi-room country house and a cottage.The device is connected to a single-phase 230 V network through a safe 6-pin flat connector, using a three-wire power cable with an earthing contact.

A frequent failure of the convector depends on the mechanical part of the temperature controller, which is not entirely reliable. Over time, due to the peculiarities of the temperature regulator drive (from the regulator wheel itself to the axis of the variable resistor-rheostat, an extension rod 25 cm long passes) its slightest skew makes temperature control impossible. And if the convector has been preserved for a long time, it is impossible to “turn” the rheostat axis with the help of the control wheel located on the front panel of the device without risk of breaking it. This is the weak point of such and similar convectors.

On the fig. 2 on the left is the convector with the front (front) panel removed; here you can see the temperature regulator and the power switch. On the fig. 2 (right) shows a three-terminal variable resistor - a temperature controller of the Siemens T3E2 type.

To restore the convector's performance or carry out preventive maintenance, it is necessary to turn off the power (disconnect the detachable connection), remove the front panel of the device case, remove the variable resistor-rheostat, and lubricate the places of mechanical friction with Litol-24, CV joint grease or graphite grease ( any of them are inexpensive and sold in auto stores). Only mechanically contacting parts need to be lubricated. The place where grease is applied to the mechanical (rubbing) parts of the variable resistor drive - temperature controller is shown in fig. 3.

Applying lubricant to other parts of the temperature controller actuator to reduce friction and improve controller performance is shown in fig. 4.

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The electronic temperature regulator was covered. Two boards, sensor and power. Problem with PWM, inductance burns out (on the PL1 diagram) I had to draw a circuit of the power board. That's right, I doubt only the pinout of the transistor U1.
Initially, the PL1 inductance burned out in it and the EC3 conder swelled. Replaced-PL1, EC3 and PWM AP8012. The inductance burned out again. All diodes, resistors and capacitors rang.
Give advice who came across a similar one.

Gimp has a datasheet and a standard PWM switching circuit.
Compare with the diagram you drew

datasheet (1) .pdf 673.92 KB Downloaded: 593 times

I can lay out a couple more, but this one interests me.
There is no trance, there is a coil on the L2 core.

Schematic AP8012.png 72.83 KB Downloaded: 368 times

Thanks for the tip. There was my typo. Fixed.
Regarding the lamp, I heard that in the repair of the UPS they put a fuse instead of a fuse that burns out. But here the inductance does not play the role of a fuse, I see the oscillating circuit PL1-EC2-EC3. And it seems to me that the circuit will not start with the lamp.

Do you think it is possible to replace ULN2001 with ULN2003?

ULN.png 72.43 Kb Downloaded: 255 times

Yes, I've already tried it. The power supply unit started up.
At first, when turned on, it issued 4 short signals and on the E1 display.
After I threw in the temperature sensor, everything returned to normal.

Thanks to everyone who participated

And a tremendous respect shov244, for help

Regardless of the quality, sooner or later, almost all electric heaters start to heat poorly, do not turn on or no longer heat at all.
Self-repair of an electric heater is not very difficult, since this class of devices is often not considered a complex device.
In everyday life, people use a wide variety of electric electric heaters: electric infrared fireplaces, convectors, fan heaters and a variety of oil radiators. For all such devices, regardless of design features, nichrome serves as a heating element.

It should be noted that the simpler the design of the heater, the longer such a device will work, and who will find it easier for her husband to understand the breakdown and repair it.

For a quick and effective repair, first of all, you need to understand how the heater works.
Regardless of the type of such devices, they all have basic common elements.
Heaters are equipped with one or two key switches which you can select one or two heating elements that will heat, as well as indicator lamps for the operation of heating elements.
The heating element may have not two contacts, but three, with two separated heating coils inside.

Immediately after the power cord with a plug, there may be a protective thermal fuse, which will automatically turn off the heater after overheating, for example, if you cover the convector from above with a towel.
There may also be a tilt sensor, which will be triggered if, for example, the convector falls or turns over.
In addition to the thermal fuse, there can also be a “circuit breaker” - an overcurrent fuse, for other emergencies.

Any diagnostics begins with disassembling the heater, but before disassembling it, you must turn it off and unplug it.
We unscrew the screws of the case, most likely the case of the control panel. Having reached the connecting control panel with a thermostat, thermostat and other elements, we begin the test with the continuity of the power cord.
Next, we check the operation of all control keys and toggle switches - calling them with a tester. Then all sequential circuits.

Thermostat is checked by a tester and it should give out zero resistance (short circuit) or close to zero on the contacts, this will indicate the serviceability of the thermostat.

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In addition to the health of the heater elements themselves, the cause of the breakdown can also creak in poor and unreliable contact of the conductors, over time, due to the difference in materials, they oxidize and rot away, so at this point you should also pay attention.
Then the protective elements are checked: the position sensor and the thermal fuse.

Thermal fuse they call the tester, in good and cold condition, there should be zero resistance (short circuit) on its contacts.
There can be several such thermal fuses in one case, and as a rule, the larger the case, the more thermal fuses it contains.
It should be noted that the thermal fuse may be working (serviceable), but due to the heavily soiled filters and convection holes, they can instantly trigger and turn off the heater.

What is it like position sensor, so it is, in most structures, some kind of weight that, when the heater is tilted or dropped, affects the mini-switch, which already opens the voltage. A serviceable position sensor, in the normal vertical position of the heater, on its contacts should have zero resistance (short circuit).
The main decisive point will be checking the heating Heating elementov. In large heaters, there are usually several of them, most often there are two of them. And often the reason for insufficient heating of the room is the failure of one of the heating elements.
In most cases, the heating element cannot be repaired and is replaced with a similar one.
How to check the heating element? The resistance on its contacts may be different, depending on the specific device, but it should definitely ring out. The approximate resistance values can be in the range of 20 - 100 ohms.

The heater does not turn on.
There may be several reasons. Check the outlet, plug and power cord. Then disassemble and make sure that there is a mains voltage inside the device, it is best to use a 40W control lamp for this.
The voltage on the serial circuit, thermal fuse, thermostat, thermal switch, heating element is checked
The live test should be carried out carefully or use the resistance dialing method (with a multimeter) already without voltage.

The heater turns on but does not heat.
The heater blows the air but does not heat it, such a situation clearly indicates a malfunction of the heating element, one of the sections of the spiral may be damaged, it is necessary to carefully examine the entire length of the nichrome conductor, and also ring the heating element itself with the tester, the resistance should be somewhere around 70 Ohm ...
In the event of a visible rupture or burnout of the nichrome conductor, you can try to restore it if you pull the dangling conductors a little to the center and carefully twist them with a margin to each other, then firmly insert the “connection” back, but so that it does not shift or close during operation accidentally on adjacent turns of the spiral.
Also, the reason for this work may be a thermal fuse or bimetallic plates of the thermostat. In a cold state, they must be closed, sometimes it becomes necessary to clean them to improve the reliability of contact. Serviceable bimetallic plates should open from the heat of the soldering iron.

The fan heater heats up but the fan does not spin (does not blow).
If the blades are in good working order and are not wedged anywhere, then most likely the reason is in the engines.
But still, first you need to make sure that voltage is supplied to the engine. Make sure its shaft turns easily and effortlessly.
Then the engine can be checked with a multimeter, its contacts should ring and show at least some resistance.
If necessary, the motor can be disassembled and inspected inside, severe contamination is possible. Ring the windings, clean the manifold assembly and inspect the reliability of the brushes. It may be necessary to drip engine oil into the bushings of the driving part of the engine.
If the windings are burned out, the motor must be replaced.

The heater shuts down (due to overheating)
There may be several reasons. For example, a large heating area and a low-power convector, as a result of constant operation, the body and internal elements overheat, including overheating protection elements that turn off the device.
In other cases, it may be caused by incorrect installation of the Convector. It is necessary to organize a free flow of incoming air to the lower part of the heater and a free outflow of hot air from the upper part of the convector, there is nothing to cover it with and create resistance to heat escape from the convector.

Video (click to play).

The oil cooler is leaking.
Self-repair in such cases is a difficult and thankless task. Adhesives and sealants are useless in this case.
To seal the holes, it is necessary to drain the oil, fill with water and using inverter welding for thin sheets. Boil the hole, having previously cleaned the place from paint and corrosion.
With constant oil leakage, it should be understood that oil will still need to be topped up, since for the effective operation of such a heater, 90% of the volume of oil from the total capacity of the oil "tank" is necessary, the rest of the space should be occupied by air, it plays the role of a kind of cushion when oil is spreading when heating.

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