With the onset of cold weather, you remembered that somewhere in the pantry there must be an electric convector, which perfectly complemented the central heating last winter. When connected to the network, the device does not show signs of life, although there is current in the network? This means that the reason why the convector does not want to heat the room is hidden inside the device. Do not rush to call the master - it is quite possible to repair the convector with your own hands.
Before opening the convector, you need to read the operating instructions, find a detailed diagram and study it carefully. The design of the convector is quite simple and can be understood without technical education.
Advice! Before turning on the device, it must be vacuumed, or rather blown out, directing a stream of air into the device in order to remove a layer of dust from the heating elements.
Its task is to automatically turn off the convector when the temperature inside the device reaches the maximum temperature set by the manufacturer. The contacts of the emergency thermal limiter are always closed, which is easy to check with a probe.
If the thermal limiter cannot be repaired, then it is necessary to replace it with a new one in order to protect yourself from various troubles associated with overheating of the electric convector.
If, in addition to the power button, the convector has other key switches for modes and the like, then you need to check their serviceability. We put the position "On", check with an ohmmeter the conductivity of each switch in turn, touching its contacts with the probes.
Heating elements are used in two types - closed and open.
Separate blocks are created from open heating elements together with heat shields.
Such heating elements consist of a spiral enclosed in a sealed tube made of transparent glass, which perfectly transfers heat, but at the same time serves dielectric ... These include hermetic tubular electric heating elements (TEN) - in them the spiral is enclosed in a steel shell, and quartz sand, tightly packed inside, serves as a dielectric.
In many imported convectors, you can find heaters that are formed by applying a conductive coating on specially hardened glass or a very thin wire woven into a heat-resistant fabric.
It is not difficult to make repairs to the convectors with your own hands if there are domestic heating elements inside. If they open type , then you can make repairs using the following method:
At the same time, we must not forget one feature of nichrome - when heated, the thread lengthens and sags, therefore, during installation, it must be pulled a little in order to exclude dangerous contact with the metal parts of the case.
If a heating element is installed in the convector, then your task is to accurately establish its inoperability, and replacement is even easier than in other cases.The new heating element is installed in place of the burned-out heater with the subsequent connection of current-carrying wires.
Many users are sure that they know these postulates, but in fact, convectors are often used incorrectly, which contributes to the rapid deterioration of expensive equipment. Follow the simple recommendations of the manufacturers - this is the key to the perfect service of the convectors for a long time.
The product will last a long time and will not let you down during operation, if for a period of temporary non-use during the summer period, you pack it in plastic bag and put the box in a dry place. The eternal enemy of such devices - dust - will not be able to get inside the case and accumulate on the heating elements.
To enhance the tightness - connect a vacuum cleaner to the bag for a short time, it will suck out excess air, you get 100% insulation.
VIDEO
Electric convector heaters have a fairly simple device. It is this fact that affects their availability and service life. But not a single technique, including heating, is insured against accidental breakdowns. Do-it-yourself repair of heating convectors, in case of equipment breakdown, will help save money in the family budget. Indeed, in order to repair the failed equipment, you do not need any complex measuring instruments and tools.
You already know that heating convectors are subdivided into devices with electronic and mechanical control. Both modifications are amenable to DIY repair. Another thing is that "Mechanics" are much easier to repair, since they are devoid of delicate electronics ... From tools you will need screwdrivers and wire cutters, from measuring instruments - a multimeter or a tester. You will also need basic knowledge in the field of electrical engineering, because you will need to imagine a convector diagram in your head.
If, after disassembling, you see black carbon somewhere, then first of all pay your attention to this element.
Repair of convector heaters begins with disassembling the casings. It is necessary to carefully remove the casing, being careful not to damage anything inside. Next, we examine the insides for their integrity. If something shorted somewhere, you will definitely see it by the characteristic burnt spots - in this side there will be faulty nodes. But some malfunctions do not manifest themselves in any way.
Before we tell you how to repair convector heaters with your own hands, it is useful to recall the design of a heating convector with a mechanical thermostat:
Convector heater device with mechanical control.
Switch - provides a complete break in the electrical circuit, disconnecting the unit from the outlet;
Fuses - protect the power grid from overloads, triggered by a short circuit;
Mechanical thermostat - controls the air temperature by turning on and off the heating element of the heating convector;
Heating element - most often it is a closed-type heating element, sealed in a metal tube.
In total, we have before us almost the entire list of things that can break here. Do-it-yourself repair of such a convector is not burdened with any difficulties, you just need to understand its structure.
Carefully ring all the convector assemblies with a multimeter.
Do-it-yourself heating convector repair begins with checking the supply voltage from the mains. That is, we need to check the integrity of the cable and plug. We take a multimeter in our hands and check for the presence of electric current at the end of the supply cable. If there is nothing here, the cable or plug itself should be replaced. It would not hurt to check the outlet itself - it is quite possible that it was she who broke.
When repairing heating convectors with your own hands, do not forget to check the switch. Convector heaters are quite powerful equipment, therefore contact groups in toggle switches can spark. Over time, this leads to a complete lack of contact. ... A failed toggle switch can be replaced or cleaned - disassemble it carefully, since the small parts with springs inside have the property of scattering all over the table.
If everything is fine with the switch, we continue to repair the convector with our own hands - we check the thermostat. In a cold state, its contacts are closed, so they can be easily "called" by a multimeter. If the thermostat is faulty, you should find the same unit and replace it - it will be easier this way. In some units, the thermostat is combined with a switch, so everything must be replaced at once.
If all the preliminary circuits are intact, we are left with the last suspect - this is the heating element. It is he who can become the main reason for the failure of the heating convector. Do-it-yourself repair of this unit is impossible, since the heating elements are not repaired - you need to find a similar heating element and replace it.
To determine the serviceability or malfunction of the heating element, its resistance will help:
Check the resistance of the convector heating element.
By the way, if the convector does not work due to the fact that "automatic machines" are triggered in the panel, check the resistance between the contacts of the heating element and its body (as well as the body of the entire device).
Electronic control is implemented in many heating convectors. Repairing them with your own hands is difficult, since it is simply impossible to check the control unit without special knowledge in the field of electronics and circuitry. But the attempt is not torture - let's try to at least roughly determine what is broken here.
We start repairing the convector with our own hands with the simplest ringing of the power cable coming from the outlet. We need to make sure that it is intact and that it supplies electricity to the heater. At the same time, we are convinced of the integrity of the outlet. We safely discard the faulty cable and install a new one - do not forget to choose a wire with a suitable cross-section, taking into account the power of the heating convector being repaired.
Device device with electronic control.
Next, you need to check the fuses. They can fail as a result of the breakdown of any internal components, or as a result of a voltage surge in the power supply network. We replace the burnt out fuses and turn on the equipment to the network - if everything is fine and the heating has started, we assemble the heater and install it in its original place .
If the fuses fail again, then further do-it-yourself repairs are reduced to checking the heating element - most likely, testing it will show the presence of a short circuit. Failure of the control unit is also possible. The defective heating element should be removed and discarded, replacing a serviceable unit. If the control module is the last suspect, you will have to go to the service center.
If it was not possible to repair the heating convector with your own hands, you should contact the nearest service center. You can find addresses on the Internet or in equipment passports. Authorized services can accept heaters of almost any brands for repair - these are Ballu, Nobo, Electrolux and many others. Also, in many cities there are unauthorized workshops - the prices here are a little lower, but there can be no talk of any warranty repairs here.
If the warranty has ended, then in any case, we advise you to first try to repair the heating convector with your own hands. Thanks to the extremely light internal structure, these devices lend themselves well to repair work. You just have to find spare parts and assemblies - they are sold in some workshops and in specialized online stores.
There is a good 1.5 kW Nobo convector, but it doesn't work. I tried to turn on the heater itself directly - it is heating up. This means that the control circuit is faulty. Can I buy or ring somehow? There is nothing complicated there, it seems. It will even go to the garage, buying a new one for a few thousand is not our way somehow
Maybe it was better to ask in the electrician section?
I checked the button - it works! I'll check the resistor. The details do not look burnt, I don’t know how to check them.
Tell me how you can repair the heater via the Internet?
Look for a thermal fuse there !! Should be in such heaters
AndGr wrote:
Is not a fact. Even a thin printed track can play its role. Without knowing what you are looking for, you will not find. You still need to understand what is in front of you and how it works. At least the basic principles. Well, the practice of electronics repair.
Redesign of chargers and more
ArVicBor wrote:
What the hell is the forum then in general? There are repairmen of everything and always))) And through the Internet you can do a lot, unless you can't get pregnant, and even then.
ArVicBor wrote:
I understand what is in front of me and how it works. The principles are also known. There is also practice. And even a few soldering irons and three testers))) P
It's simple - if there is a standard refusal for a given technique and a way to solve it, then experienced people can know it and give an answer to those less experienced in this matter. For example, from “covered transistor such and such” to “throw it out”)))
From the author: hello dear friends! If you once again, freezing, pulled the convector out of the pantry and suddenly found that it does not show signs of life, this means that you will have to do some repairs. Of course, you can take him to the master, or you can simply throw it away and purchase new equipment. But this is not the most budget-friendly approach.
It is much more profitable to get down to business on your own. Moreover, repairing a convector with your own hands is not so difficult. Of course, if we are talking about gas equipment, then in this case it is better to contact the master. Still, blue fuel is a source of increased danger, and therefore it is not a good idea to start working with it without proper experience.
But as for the electrical varieties, then everything is much more rosy. The only safety requirement that you need to strictly observe is to first disconnect the device from the mains and make sure that there is no voltage inside it. This is done using a special indicator that you can purchase at any store at a very low cost.
As for the repair procedure itself, after reading this article, you will probably be able to figure out all the nuances. Therefore, stock up on a notebook and a pen, make yourself comfortable and start reading.
An electric convector consists of several elements, each of which is capable of breaking. Therefore, in the event of a malfunction in the operation of the equipment, all parts of the structure should be checked sequentially.
The first thing to check is how well the structural parts are connected. It so happens that somewhere a contact has moved away or burned out, and this causes disturbances in the operation of all equipment.
To inspect, it is necessary to disassemble the device. Once again, we remind you that you should first disconnect it from the power source. The check is carried out as follows.
The design of the convector includes an element that monitors the temperature of the device. If it exceeds the permissible value, then, in order to avoid overheating of the equipment, the limiter automatically stops the operation of the convector.
Examine the item carefully. Call its contacts with the indicator - they must be closed. If you see carbon deposits, then you need to clean it off with sandpaper. If shells are found on the contacts, then they are sawed off and then degreased with B-70 gasoline. All this must be done very carefully, since the bimetallic plate in the limiter may be damaged.
If for some reason the item cannot be repaired, it should be replaced with a new one. In principle, the convector can be operated without a limiter. But this is not recommended. The equipment will not be able to turn off automatically if it overheats, and this can lead to very harmful consequences: for example, a short circuit and even a fire.
In addition to the button that is responsible for turning the equipment on and off, there are sometimes other switches on the case that regulate the operating mode. If any of them breaks down, then the equipment may well stop working altogether, or it will perform its functions defectively.
Therefore, it is necessary to check the functionality of each switch. This is done using an ohmmeter. Run it with a probe alternately over each contact and see if the conductivity is everywhere.
If the problem lies precisely in the state of contact, it must be cleaned with the same sandpaper. If the switch itself is broken, then it must be replaced with a new one.
Let's move on to the most important thing. At the heart of any electric convector is a heating element. It is due to it that the equipment heats up and, as a result, the heat is returned to the air in the room.
Heating elements in convectors are of two types:
In any case, their performance is checked using a multimeter. To do this, you need to attach one of its probe to the mounting point, and the second to the other terminal in turn. If you find a problem on one of the contacts, it must be cleaned until it starts to shine. Then check the work quality again.
A broken heating element can be repaired in a fairly simple way. If we are talking about an open type of heater, then it is usually a spiral wound on ceramic strips. It must be unwound, and then placed on the slats in the same way a nichrome wire of the corresponding section. Then put the heating element in place. Please note that winding of nichrome wire must be done with tension in order to exclude its further sagging during heating.
A closed heating element is repaired according to the same principle. It is the same spiral, but enclosed in a flask. It must be removed from there and replaced with a new one from a nichrome wire. In this case, the latter must first be rid of the lubricant - this is done with the help of gasoline.
VIDEO
As you know, any problem is easier to prevent than fix. Electric convectors in this case are no exception to the general rule.If you follow all the recommendations when operating the equipment, then it will serve you as long as possible and efficiently.
Of course, each device has its own instructions for use, which indicate all the nuances inherent in a particular model. That is why it is so important to study the accompanying technical documents when purchasing electrical equipment. But there are several general rules that must be followed when using any convector:
do not hang any fabric on the equipment: clothes, bedding, etc. If you neglect this rule, then air circulation will be disrupted. This will lead to rapid overheating of the equipment and, as a result, to its breakdown. In addition, such a situation is fraught with the possibility of a fire;
the same applies to drying clothes. This can be done only if the convector has a special bar that is specially designed for hanging wet clothes;
if you plan to use the equipment in a room with a high level of humidity - for example, in a bathroom - then you must choose the model with the IP marking. It is the most resistant to moisture. In addition, in such a room, provide for the presence of grounding;
the body of the convector does not tolerate physical impact. Therefore, place the equipment where it will not get in the way;
the equipment gets quite hot during operation. It is not worth placing it in children's rooms, since a child may accidentally get burned by touching the body;
under no circumstances touch the device with wet hands!
And one more thing: initially, when choosing a convector, focus not only on cost and functionality, but also on the reputation of the manufacturer. Only high-quality equipment will serve for a long time and reliably. Among the well-established companies are, for example, Electrolux, Ariston and other similar companies. Do not skimp on the convector, then your home will always delight you with warmth and comfort. Good luck!
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Let's consider the principle of operation of a convection heater. The principle of operation of an electric convector is based on natural circulation (convection) of air. The convector, as a rule, has a rectangular shape, inside it is an electric heating element.
There are openings on the surface of the convector for air circulation. The convector is designed in such a way that the air coming from the bottom and side openings heats up after passing through the heating element and then exits through the openings located on the front panel of the convector.
For example, an oil-type heater heats a room due to thermal radiation that comes from heated radiators. The convector has a different principle - the room is heated by a directed flow of heated air. Thanks to this, the convector heats the room much faster and, what is equally important, evenly over the entire area.
The heating element of a modern convector is low-temperature, it is made of a special alloy, due to which it heats up much faster than conventional tubular-type heating elements. As a rule, after 30-60 seconds after being connected to the network, the convector already begins to give off heat to the room.
The efficiency of this type of heater reaches 90% due to the fact that almost all the energy goes to warm up the room, unlike other types of heaters, for example, oil, which does not start to give off heat to the room immediately, but only after its heat-conducting medium warms up - oil, and then its metal case (radiator).
There is an opinion that heaters, including electric convectors, burn oxygen. But is it really so? As mentioned above, low-temperature heating elements are installed in the electric convector, the maximum temperature of their heating, as a rule, does not exceed 600-60 o C.
At this temperature, oxygen is not burned, which is a significant advantage of the convector compared to other types of electric heaters, the heating elements of which are heated to several hundred degrees. In addition, the low operating temperature of the convector allows it to be installed almost everywhere, including near fire-hazardous surfaces, for example, on a wooden wall.
And how can a convector effectively heat a room if the operating temperature of its heating elements is much lower than in other types of heaters?
The convector heating element has a much larger size compared to heating elements that have a higher operating temperature. Due to this, the convector generates a sufficient amount of heat and, despite the low operating temperature of its heating elements, is able to heat a large area. Depending on the capacity, one convector can heat a room up to 30 sq. m.
Most convectors are fitted with a thermostat, which is designed to regulate the temperature of the heating element and, accordingly, the temperature of the air that leaves the convector. On cheaper models, mechanical thermostats are installed, with the help of which the temperature is roughly controlled.
Expensive models are equipped with electronic thermostats that allow you to regulate the temperature with high accuracy - up to a tenth of a degree. For domestic use, accurate temperature control is not so important. If the room is cold and you need to warm it up faster, the thermostat is set to the maximum temperature. When the optimal and comfortable temperature is reached, the thermostat can be set to a lower temperature value.
Accuracy of temperature control is relevant when it is necessary to maintain the temperature in those rooms where it is necessary to observe a strict temperature regime. Thanks to the electronic thermostat, automatic room temperature control is possible.
In addition to the thermostat, a switch is provided on the electric convector to supply voltage to the heating element. Convectors with a power of 1500-2500 W can have 2-3 heating elements and, accordingly, a switch for several positions. For example, when installed in the first position, one heating element is turned on, in the second position, two heating elements, and in the third position, the convector operates at full power - that is, all three heating elements are turned on.
Some types of electric convectors are equipped with independent switches for each of the heating elements.This option for turning on the heating elements is most acceptable, since in the event of a burnout of one heating element, you can turn on the other, which is in good working order, while when the heating element burns out in a convector with a step switch, it is highly likely that in none of the switch positions the convector will not work.
The presence of a thermostat and switches for heating elements allows you to regulate the temperature of heating the air in fairly wide ranges.
Electric convectors can be mounted directly on the wall or installed on the floor. If this type of heater is installed on the floor, there is a danger of it tipping over and causing a fire. Therefore, in almost all convectors, a special protective device is provided that automatically cuts off the power to the heating elements in case of accidental or spontaneous overturning of the convector.
The principle of this protective device is as follows. When the convector is in vertical position, the contacts are closed and the convector heating elements are powered. In the event of overturning of the convector, that is, when it deviates from the vertical position by a predetermined angle value, the contacts of the protective device open and the heating elements of the convector are de-energized.
It should be noted that the convector works in normal mode only if there is an unobstructed air circulation. Therefore, in order to avoid the failure of the convector, it is forbidden to cover it.
convector repair it is quite possible to do it yourself, without calling a specialist from the service.
Before starting work, we find a diagram of the device and carefully get acquainted with it.
Be sure to blow out the device with a vacuum cleaner for safe start-up. This will help remove dust accumulated on the heating elements.
Then we sequentially inspect the power button and dismantle the front panel. By means of visual inspection, we reveal traces of burning and the strength of the tightening of the installation wires with the corresponding screws. We replace elements with loose or torn threads with new parts. Descaling is thoroughly removed in areas with visible sticking. Assembly takes place after thorough sanding of the bare sections of the wire and washers.
The temperature controller is tested using a multimeter. Most often, it is this element that becomes unusable in electric heating devices.
You should familiarize yourself with the options for possible breakdowns of the main elements of the device.
Thermal limiter
At a certain maximum internal temperature, this element turns off the operation of the device. The probe allows you to make sure that the limiter contacts are constantly closed.
When shells appear on the contact joints, we filing with a file, followed by processing with B-70 gasoline. We check the absence of traces of carbon deposits, doing this with great care. It is necessary not to damage the bimetallic type plates and not to knock down the settings of the manufacturer.
In case of defects that cannot be restored, you do not need to rack your brains, but immediately install a new element.
Checking the switches
If we have various key switches and other switches, we will test them for suitability for work. With a megohmmeter, we check the conductivity for each of them in the on position. The operation is very simple and consists in touching the contacts with the probes.
We try to eliminate all detected defects by stripping the contacts; in case of significant breakdowns, we replace the switch.
Heating elements
After checking all the listed parts, if you are convinced of their serviceability, you will need to test the heating element. Depending on the brand of the convector, their number can be from one to three.
An ordinary multimeter will allow you to make a high-quality integrity check. To do this, with one probe, we successively touch all the leads, holding the second one at the mounting point. Sometimes it is enough to remove existing dirt or scale deposits for a good quality contact. We perform a perfect stripping of wires and contact areas and duplicate the check. After completing the entire event, it becomes clear what to do - change the heating element or try to restore it.
Closed and open models are two types of heating elements.
Open heating elements
The main elements attributed to this type:
spirals stretched between ceramic strips;
nichrome wire, made in the form of spirals, on which ceramic beads are placed;
Nichrome thread tightly wound on a special ceramic rod.
The design of open elements in combination with heat shields are individual block elements.
Closed heating elements
The basis of the design of such devices is a spiral enclosed in a completely sealed tube. The pipe itself acts as a dielectric, but at the same time it perfectly conducts heat. In this category, we highlight such elements as heating elements with a steel tube, in which the dielectric is quartz sand tightly packed inside.
Imported samples are sometimes produced in the original version, with a coating applied to perform heating or a wire of a very small diameter woven into the fabric base.
There can be no question of repairs. Manufacturers provide kits with key components to replace when needed. And in the absence of the necessary part, it is better to contact a specialist.
How to change the heater
There are no particular difficulties in repair for domestic models. Work with open modifications is done like this:
Dismantling the spiral from the bar.
After that, we wind a nichrome spiral of the same section, having previously measured the length of the old one.
We put on ceramic beads or the spiral itself on the straps.
We put it in place and the whole process is complete.
Be sure to stretch the thread well, since nichrome tends to lengthen when heated.
The same procedure is required for closed items. The only difference is preliminary cleaning and removal of grease from the new spiral.
If there is a heating element, it is important to make sure that it is faulty, and the installation of a new one is very simple. You just need to put it in the place of the old one and connect it to the wire terminals, observing the correct connection.
To avoid rapid wear and tear of such an expensive device, heed the main advice of manufacturers:
Do not block the air circulation with any item or object placed on top of the appliance.
It is strictly forbidden to dry wet clothes on the body of the device.
Models with the IP 24 mark are the best choice for use in areas with high humidity parameters.
Protect your device from the risk of mechanical shock.
If the carrying capacity does not correspond to that of the convector, there is a fire hazard.
Limit the access of children to the device as much as possible.
There is a high risk of electrical injury when touching the switch with wet hands.
Do not allow objects of any kind to enter the device.
Video (click to play).
A few simple recommendations are worth following in order to keep your appliance warm over the years.
