VIDEO
Regardless of the quality, sooner or later, almost all electric heaters start to heat poorly, do not turn on or no longer heat at all.
Video (click to play).
It should be noted that the simpler the design of the heater, the longer such a device will work, and who will find it easier for her husband to understand the breakdown and repair it.
For a quick and effective repair, first of all, you need to understand how the heater works.
Immediately after the power cord with a plug, there may be a protective thermal fuse, which will automatically turn off the heater after overheating, for example, if you cover the convector from above with a towel.
Any diagnostics begins with disassembling the heater, but before disassembling it, you must turn it off and unplug it. Thermostat is checked by a tester and it should give out zero resistance (short circuit) or close to zero on the contacts, this will indicate the serviceability of the thermostat.
In addition to the health of the heater elements themselves, the cause of the breakdown can also creak in poor and unreliable contact of the conductors, over time, due to the difference in materials, they oxidize and rot away, so at this point you should also pay attention.
Thermal fuse they call the tester, in good and cold condition, there should be zero resistance (short circuit) on its contacts.
What is it like position sensor , so it is, in most structures, some kind of weight that, when the heater is tilted or dropped, affects the mini-switch, which already opens the voltage. A serviceable position sensor, in the normal vertical position of the heater, on its contacts should have zero resistance (short circuit). Heating element ov. In large heaters, there are usually several of them, most often there are two of them. And often the reason for insufficient heating of the room is the failure of one of the heating elements.
The heater does not turn on.
The heater turns on but does not heat.
The fan heater heats up but the fan does not spin (does not blow).
The heater shuts down (due to overheating)
The oil cooler is leaking.
Electric convector heaters have a fairly simple device. It is this fact that affects their availability and service life. But not a single technique, including heating, is insured against accidental breakdowns. Do-it-yourself repair of heating convectors, in case of equipment breakdown, will help save money in the family budget. Indeed, in order to repair the failed equipment, you do not need any complex measuring instruments and tools.
You already know that heating convectors are subdivided into devices with electronic and mechanical control. Both modifications are amenable to DIY repair. Another thing is that "Mechanics" are much easier to repair, since they are devoid of delicate electronics ... From tools you will need screwdrivers and wire cutters, from measuring instruments - a multimeter or a tester. You will also need basic knowledge in the field of electrical engineering, because you will need to imagine a convector diagram in your head.
If, after disassembling, you see black carbon somewhere, then first of all pay your attention to this element.
Repair of convector heaters begins with disassembling the casings. It is necessary to carefully remove the casing, being careful not to damage anything inside. Next, we examine the insides for their integrity. If something shorted somewhere, you will definitely see it by the characteristic burnt spots - in this side there will be faulty nodes. But some malfunctions do not manifest themselves in any way.
Before we tell you how to repair convector heaters with your own hands, it is useful to recall the design of a heating convector with a mechanical thermostat:
Convector heater device with mechanical control.
Switch - provides a complete break in the electrical circuit, disconnecting the unit from the outlet;
Fuses - protect the power grid from overloads, triggered by a short circuit;
Mechanical thermostat - controls the air temperature by turning on and off the heating element of the heating convector;
Heating element - most often it is a closed-type heating element, sealed in a metal tube.
In total, we have before us almost the entire list of things that can break here. Do-it-yourself repair of such a convector is not burdened with any difficulties, you just need to understand its structure.
Carefully ring all the convector assemblies with a multimeter.
Do-it-yourself heating convector repair begins with checking the supply voltage from the mains. That is, we need to check the integrity of the cable and plug. We take a multimeter in our hands and check for the presence of electric current at the end of the supply cable. If there is nothing here, the cable or plug itself should be replaced. It would not hurt to check the outlet itself - it is quite possible that it was she who broke.
When repairing heating convectors with your own hands, do not forget to check the switch. Convector heaters are quite powerful equipment, therefore contact groups in toggle switches can spark. Over time, this leads to a complete lack of contact. ... A failed toggle switch can be replaced or cleaned - disassemble it carefully, since the small parts with springs inside have the property of scattering all over the table.
If everything is fine with the switch, we continue to repair the convector with our own hands - we check the thermostat. In a cold state, its contacts are closed, so they can be easily "called" by a multimeter. If the thermostat is faulty, you should find the same unit and replace it - it will be easier this way. In some units, the thermostat is combined with a switch, so everything must be replaced at once.
If all the preliminary circuits are intact, we are left with the last suspect - this is the heating element. It is he who can become the main reason for the failure of the heating convector. Do-it-yourself repair of this unit is impossible, since the heating elements are not repaired - you need to find a similar heating element and replace it.
To determine the serviceability or malfunction of the heating element, its resistance will help:
Check the resistance of the convector heating element.
By the way, if the convector does not work due to the fact that "automatic machines" are triggered in the panel, check the resistance between the contacts of the heating element and its body (as well as the body of the entire device).
Electronic control is implemented in many heating convectors. Repairing them with your own hands is difficult, since it is simply impossible to check the control unit without special knowledge in the field of electronics and circuitry. But the attempt is not torture - let's try to at least roughly determine what is broken here.
We start repairing the convector with our own hands with the simplest ringing of the power cable coming from the outlet. We need to make sure that it is intact and that it supplies electricity to the heater. At the same time, we are convinced of the integrity of the outlet. We safely discard the faulty cable and install a new one - do not forget to choose a wire with a suitable cross-section, taking into account the power of the heating convector being repaired.
Device device with electronic control.
Next, you need to check the fuses. They can fail as a result of the breakdown of any internal components, or as a result of a voltage surge in the power supply network. We replace the burnt out fuses and turn on the equipment to the network - if everything is fine and the heating has started, we assemble the heater and install it in its original place .
If the fuses fail again, then further do-it-yourself repairs are reduced to checking the heating element - most likely, testing it will show the presence of a short circuit. Failure of the control unit is also possible. The defective heating element should be removed and discarded, replacing a serviceable unit. If the control module is the last suspect, you will have to go to the service center.
If it was not possible to repair the heating convector with your own hands, you should contact the nearest service center. You can find addresses on the Internet or in equipment passports.Authorized services can accept heaters of almost any brands for repair - these are Ballu, Nobo, Electrolux and many others. Also, in many cities there are unauthorized workshops - the prices here are a little lower, but there can be no talk of any warranty repairs here.
If the warranty has ended, then in any case, we advise you to first try to repair the heating convector with your own hands. Thanks to the extremely light internal structure, these devices lend themselves well to repair work. You just have to find spare parts and assemblies - they are sold in some workshops and in specialized online stores.
With the onset of cold weather, you remembered that somewhere in the pantry there must be an electric convector, which perfectly complemented the central heating last winter. When connected to the network, the device does not show signs of life, although there is current in the network? This means that the reason why the convector does not want to heat the room is hidden inside the device. Do not rush to call the master - it is quite possible to repair the convector with your own hands.
Before opening the convector, you need to read the operating instructions, find a detailed diagram and study it carefully. The design of the convector is quite simple and can be understood without technical education.
Advice! Before turning on the device, it must be vacuumed, or rather blown out, directing a stream of air into the device in order to remove a layer of dust from the heating elements.
First you need to check power button , if it is in good working order, then we move on: remove the front panel of the device to open access to the internal device. We visually check all the wires that fit the terminals - we are looking for traces of burning or loosening in the tightening of the fastening screws that secure the installation wires. If a screw is found that is weakened due to a stripped thread, then we change it to a new one and tighten it. We remove the detected scale, clean the wire connection point by disassembling the connection. This operation must be approached thoroughly: sand the washers and the bare part of the wire with sandpaper, then reassemble everything by firmly tightening the screw.
Then we check with a multimeter Temperature regulator ... In electric convectors of different models, it is this mechanical switch that can break.
Its task is to automatically turn off the convector when the temperature inside the device reaches the maximum temperature set by the manufacturer. The contacts of the emergency thermal limiter are always closed, which is easy to check with a probe.
Upon detection carbon deposits , it is removed, and in case of formation of shells on the contacts, they must be filed with a file, then degreased with B-70 gasoline. All operations must be done carefully so as not to break the bimetallic plate and not knock down the factory settings.
If the thermal limiter cannot be repaired, then it is necessary to replace it with a new one in order to protect yourself from various troubles associated with overheating of the electric convector.
If, in addition to the power button, the convector has other key switches for modes and the like, then you need to check their serviceability. We put the position "On", check with an ohmmeter the conductivity of each switch in turn, touching its contacts with the probes.
Having found a malfunction, you must try to remove it using the method stripping contacts , and if the breaker breaks down, replace it completely.
Checking the switch contacts
If all the switches are in good working order, the cord is intact, and the convector still does not work, then the fault here may be in the malfunction of the heating element. They are used in modern convectors from one to three at a time.
To check the integrity of such an element, we use the usual multimeter : one probe is applied to the mounting point, and the second one in turn touch the other terminals on the elements. Often a layer of scale formed or foreign contamination prevents good contact. We clean all the contacts, installation wires to a sparkling shine and repeat the measurements. When the cause of the malfunction is identified, we try to repair the heating element, if this is not possible, it must be replaced.
Heating elements are used in two types - closed and open.
Heating elements belong to this type:
spiral stretched between slats made of ceramic;
nichrome wire twisted into a spiral with strung ceramic beads;a ceramic rod on which a nichrome thread is tightly wound.
Separate blocks are created from open heating elements together with heat shields.
Open heating element
Such heating elements consist of a spiral enclosed in a sealed tube made of transparent glass, which perfectly transfers heat, but at the same time serves dielectric ... These include hermetic tubular electric heating elements (TEN) - in them the spiral is enclosed in a steel shell, and quartz sand, tightly packed inside, serves as a dielectric.
In many imported convectors, you can find heaters that are formed by applying a conductive coating on specially hardened glass or a very thin wire woven into a heat-resistant fabric.
Closed heating element
Such elements are not repaired, but replaced with new ones from repair kit if the manufacturer has taken care of this. In the absence of spare ones, you will have to select from domestic ones - here you will already need knowledge of the basics of electrical engineering. It is better to entrust such nuances to specialists from the service center, otherwise you will have to buy a new convector instead of the one that burned out due to your lack of competence.
It is not difficult to make repairs to the convectors with your own hands if there are domestic heating elements inside. If they open type , then you can make repairs using the following method:
Remove the spiral from the bar.
Measure its length and wind a spiral of the same section from nichrome wire.
Put the spiral on the ceramic strips (put on the protective ceramic beads).
Reinstall.
At the same time, we must not forget one feature of nichrome - when heated, the thread lengthens and sags, therefore, during installation, it must be pulled a little in order to exclude dangerous contact with the metal parts of the case.
Closed views of heaters change in the same way - a burned-out spiral is removed from a sealed glass flask, and a new one is inserted instead. But first, it must be rinsed first in gasoline in order to remove the grease - only after that you can proceed to the final assembly with all the precautions.
If a heating element is installed in the convector, then your task is to accurately establish its inoperability, and replacement is even easier than in other cases. The new heating element is installed in place of the burned-out heater with the subsequent connection of current-carrying wires.
Heating element repair
Many users are sure that they know these postulates, but in fact, convectors are often used incorrectly, which contributes to the rapid deterioration of expensive equipment. Follow the simple recommendations of the manufacturers - this is the key to the perfect service of the convectors for a long time.
Never cover the cabinet with clothing or a blanket - air circulation is impaired, which guarantees equipment damage.
Do not dry wet clothes on the convector - there are special folding devices for this.
For rooms with high humidity, models with the IP 24 mark must be used.
Remember that the body of the convector is not protected from mechanical stress; an external shock can break anything inside the device - from a simple sensor to an expensive heating element.
Do not use carriers that are not rated for the power of your convector, they may burn out and cause a fire.
Keep children away from the operating device to avoid accidental burns.
Do not touch the switches of the product with wet hands - the risk of electric shock increases dramatically.
Eliminate the risk of small objects falling into the convector.
The product will last a long time and will not let you down during operation, if for a period of temporary non-use during the summer period, you pack it in plastic bag and put the box in a dry place. The eternal enemy of such devices - dust - will not be able to get inside the case and accumulate on the heating elements.
To enhance the tightness - connect a vacuum cleaner to the bag for a short time, it will suck out excess air, you get 100% insulation.
VIDEO
No matter how high-quality an electric heater is, sooner or later it starts to heat badly or stops working altogether. Electric heaters are not complex devices and they very rarely break down after purchase during the warranty period.
I must say right away that the simpler the design of an electric heater, the less often it will break down and the easier it will be to find and eliminate the malfunction.
I do not recommend it on my own repair oil coolers, because there is a special heat carrier inside it - transformer oil. In order to disassemble it, you will first have to drain and then pour back the transformer oil, and this is a very troublesome and time-consuming business. If oil just started leaking a little from the oil cooler, then I recommend soldering the place of leakage with your own hands or weld it neatly with semi-automatic welding. In such cases, it is useless to use various sealants or glue to fix the leak.
Always unplug the heater from the outlet - before starting work on disassembly or dialing the device components with a multimeter.
In order to quickly and effectively find and eliminate a malfunction, you need to know the device of the electrical appliance, as well as how to check all its components for serviceability. For convenience, further I will immediately tell you about the device of the electric heater, and then about checking and repairing all components in order.
Almost all types of heaters are designed in a similar way. Both simpler and more complex models are available. We will consider the device of the most complex option. In simpler models, the thermal fuse and tilt sensor may not be present in the circuit.
Consider a more simplified version with a one-key switch and one light bulb. Often, heaters are equipped with a two-button switch and several indicator lamps, the operation scheme will be similar, with the only difference that instead of one button there will be two, and one Taine will be like two in one case. In convection versions, an object protection sensor is often built in against the ingress of objects into the inside, but it connects and disconnects the power supply in the same way as a position sensor.
Any modern electric heater consists of from a plug with a power cable, which is connected through a thermostat and a switch to a heating element installed in the housing - Ten. Very often Teng has not 2, but 3 contacts for connection. One is connected to the first power supply wire, and from the other from the socket, two other wires are connected, connected from a two-button switch, which allows you to turn on either one spiral or two at once - at full power.
The circuit may contain a thermal fuse , which automatically turns off / off the device for overheating protection.An inclination sensor can also be installed, which opens the circuit when the heater is tilted above the permissible angle. Other sensors are installed in expensive convection models. For example, protection against falling objects into the interior of the device.
In some models there may be a fuse for protection against overload currents or short circuits, tripping in emergency situations.
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