The functioning of the vehicle is influenced by the conditions in which the machine will be used, how often its system will be serviced, for example, changing the transmission oil. Timely replacement of this fluid helps to extend the service life of the gearbox. The operation of the gearbox itself directly depends on the quality of the lubricant. Replacing the oil seal is a necessary procedure that is important to carry out if there is a fuel leak from the checkpoint.
VIDEO
The need to repair the Priora gearbox arises if the characteristic noise of the box began to arise when moving on the road. There are several reasons for the noise. In particular, this may be due to the fact that some of the component parts that are part of the box have worn out. Disassembly of the device is usually required. It is better to entrust the removal and disassembly of the checkpoint to professional craftsmen.
Gearbox pillows wear out over time. As a rule, because of this, the gearshift knob begins to rattle. Only original spare parts must be used for repairs.
We carry out the disassembly of the gearbox during its repair.
Using the "13" head, unscrew the two nuts securing the bracket for the left support of the power unit and the clutch release cable.
Using the "17" head, unscrew the bracket fastening bolt ...
Using the "13" head, unscrew the eye attachment nut ...
… And unscrew the stud from the clutch housing.
Using the "13" head, we unscrew the plug of the retainer of the fork for engaging the reverse gear ...
We take out the retainer spring from the crankcase hole.
Using a magnet, remove the retainer ball.
Using the "13" head, unscrew the four nuts securing the rear crankcase cover.
Tapping with a hammer with a plastic head or a conventional hammer through a mandrel made of soft metal on the lid lugs ...
… Remove it from the studs.
Using the spanner wrench "10", unscrew the bolt securing the V gear fork.
We hit the fork through a soft metal drift, including V gear.
With a beard, we straighten the punching points of the collars of the nuts of the primary and secondary shafts.
Head "32" with a powerful knob ...
Prying the driven gear of the V gear with a screwdriver, remove the V gear assembly assembly.
We take out the plug of inclusion of the V gear.
… Remove the V gear with a synchronizer blocking ring.
Remove the synchronizer blocking ring.
We take out the thrust plate of the synchronizer
Use a screwdriver to pry on the sleeve of the driven gear of the V gear ...
... and remove it from the output shaft.
Insert one or two screwdrivers into the gap between the thrust plate and the V-gear drive gear. Prying the gear with a screwdriver (s) ...
… We press it off the input shaft.
Remove the thrust ring from the secondary shaft.
Using an impact screwdriver with a Phillips head PH3, unscrew the four screws securing the bearing thrust plate.
Using the spanner wrench "13", unscrew the three plugs of the clamps of the gear shift forks.
We take out the springs from the nests ...
... and use a magnetic screwdriver to remove the locking balls.
… And remove the ring from the crankcase groove.
Using a 13 spanner spanner, unscrew one bolt and thirteen nuts securing the gearbox housing to the clutch housing.
Having inserted a screwdriver into the groove at the junction of the mating surfaces of the crankcases, carefully raise the gearbox housing ...
We take out the magnet from the recess of the gearbox housing.
Using a 10 spanner spanner, unscrew the bolt securing the I – II gear shift fork to the rod.
Lift the stem up and remove the fork from the groove of the synchronizer sliding sleeve.
Using a 10 spanner spanner, unscrew the bolt securing the 3rd-4th gear shift fork to the rod ...
… And use a screwdriver to remove the stem lever from the gearshift mechanism.
We lift the stem up and remove the fork from the groove of the synchronizer sliding sleeve.
Turning the Vth gear shift fork rod, remove the rod lever from the gear shift mechanism.
We take out the axis of the intermediate gear of the reverse gear.
We take out the intermediate gear of the reverse gear.
Using the "10" head, unscrew the three bolts securing the gearshift mechanism ...
We simultaneously take out the primary and secondary shafts from the roller bearings of the clutch housing.
We take out the differential assembly.
... and use a 10-ring spanner to unscrew the conical screw of the hinge.
Remove the hinge from the rod ...
… With the "10" head, unscrew the tapered screw securing the gear selector.
… Remove the gear selector from the rod.
Using a screwdriver, remove the rollers of the front bearing of the secondary shaft from the separator.
We take out the bearing cage.
Hooking the collar of the outer ring of the bearing with the hook of the impact puller ...
… Press out the outer ring of the bearing.
We remove the oil sump.
We knock out a suitable piece of pipe from the clutch housing ...
We strike through the beard into the end face of the outer ring of the differential bearing ...
... and press out the ring.
Qualitative repair of the Priora gearbox carried out by experienced craftsmen. To carry out the work, specialists use only modern equipment and professional tools. Thanks to this approach, masters manage to solve even the most complex problems. The first stage of work is diagnostics. Based on the data obtained, experts determine the most effective method, which should be resorted to in the future.
- for the work of the master, only original spare parts are used (delivery from Togliatti);
In addition to repairs, specialists are ready to modernize the checkpoint.For example, for a reasonable price, you can make a sports gearbox out of a conventional gearbox.
If the driver detects problems with the transmission, highly qualified service specialists can quickly determine the need for repairs. Also, the workshop workers conduct consultations related to the competent maintenance of the vehicle and the features of the new gearbox. The guarantee for the work performed once again confirms the high professionalism of the craftsmen. You can get acquainted with the prices for the services provided in the price list.
Price for the repair of the Priora gearbox : 7000 rubles (price includes: removal, spare parts, repair and installation)
Problems with the 2nd gear were initially, from the moment of purchasing this fret priors. Well, how can I say the problem, at first it did not turn on at all, then it began to turn on with a crunch (we are talking about a quick start and switching from 1st to 2nd at 6000-6500 rpm, there were no problems with normal driving).
On the recommendation of his father, he signed up for a service, where he repairs his car. (by the way, the service turned out to be very good, now only there :), located opposite the traffic police)
Since the box had to undergo an autopsy, I ran through the thought to put the 18th row and a pair of 3.9.
When they disassembled the box, in principle, they were not surprised by anything 😀
As a result, they were bought and exchanged
I also bought a Kalinovsky cardan along with an anther (you can pull the Priorovsky horseradish :)) and a short-stroke stage.
Symptoms: gears are shifted with complications, gears do not switch / do not turn on / do not turn off, rattling when changing gears, gears "knocks out", gears are turned off spontaneously.
Possible reason: the gearbox parts are out of order.
Tools: flat screwdriver, a set of heads, a set of wrenches, an assembly blade, a hammer, a technological plug in the gearbox hole for wheel drive.
2. Remove the oil level gauge from the gearbox.
3. Place the gearbox vertically on the clutch housing.
4. Unscrew and take out the fastening bolt (1) using a “10” spanner and remove its washer installed under the head. Unscrew the two retaining nuts (3) of the clutch cable bracket and remove the spring washers installed under them. Remove the clutch cable bracket (2) from the gearbox.
5. Unscrew the remaining four rear cover retaining nuts using a 10-inch wrench.
6. Using a screwdriver, pry the boss on the cover, then remove it.
7. Unscrew and remove the fifth gear yoke mounting bolt using a 10-inch spanner.Remove the washer under the bolt head.
8. Prevent the gearbox shafts from turning as follows:
- turn on the fifth gear by shifting down the synchronizer clutch with the fork so that the clutch splines mesh with the gear;
- turn on the third or fourth gear by moving the gear selection rod to the desired position.
9. Unlock and then loosen the input shaft retaining nut using a 32-bit socket.
10. Using the same tool, unscrew the securing nut of the output shaft, having previously unlocked it.
Note. The fixing nuts of the input and output shafts are tightened with a high torque, and therefore, when unscrewing them, a lot of effort must be applied.
11. Dismantle the driven gear of the fifth gear together with the synchronizer and the output shaft yoke by lifting them with two screwdrivers.
Note. Prevent the synchroniser clutch from sliding off the hub. This is necessary because the synchroniser locking balls may fall apart.
12. Remove the thrust plate from the synchronizer, then remove the fork from the synchronizer sleeve.
13. Dismantle the fifth gear with the blocking ring from the synchronizer. Mark the relative position of the locking ring (1) and the sleeve (2), and then remove it. This is necessary because during operation the teeth of the ring are worn in to the teeth of the coupling, therefore the correct installation of the ring is very important.
14. Remove the output shaft sleeve.
15. Disconnect the drive gear of the transfer from the input shaft (pay attention to the position of its installation).
16. Remove the four bearing plate retaining screws using an impact screwdriver. Dismantle the plate (1) and remove the thrust washer (2) from the output shaft.
17. Remove the bearing circlips from both shafts by lifting the shafts by hand.
18. Unscrew the three plugs of the fixing elements using a 13-inch spanner. Carefully remove the retainer balls together with the springs.
19. Remove the sealing ring and take out the spring of the fixing element, having previously unscrewed the stopper plug.
20. Remove the retainer ball by tilting the gearbox.
21. Unscrew and remove twelve nuts and remove the securing bolt of the gearbox housings. Pay attention to which nuts the holder (1) and transport eyelet (2) are installed under. Remove the plug (3) inserted in place of one of the drives.
22. Disconnect the gearbox housing and the clutch housing by alternately inserting a screwdriver into the slots along the perimeter of the crankcases.
23. Raising the gearbox housing, turn it counterclockwise so that the crankcase lug (1) comes out from under the gear, then remove the gearbox housing from the clutch housing.
24. Unscrew and remove the fastening bolts of the forks of the first and second, third and fourth gears using a “10” wrench.
25. Remove the shift rod of the first and second gears from the support (3), slightly lifting it. Disengage the stem head (1) from the locking bracket (2) by turning the stem counterclockwise. Remove the rod yoke (4) from the synchronizer coupling groove, and then dismantle the yoke.
Note. Do not mix up the forks when assembling.
26. Disengage the head of the third and fourth gear shift rod from the gear selection lever by turning the rod. Remove the rod from the support, slightly lifting it, then remove the rod together with the fork, removing it from the groove of the synchronizer coupling.
27. Disengage the fifth gear engagement rod head from the locking bracket by turning it. Bring it out of the support and remove the stem.
28. Remove the idler reverse gear axle.
29. Move the reverse idler gear until it stops in the gear selection mechanism, then turn it 30 - 40 degrees.Remove the idler gear by moving it out from under the shaft gears.
30. Simultaneously remove the input and output shafts by slightly shaking them.
31. Remove the differential from the clutch housing.
32. Unscrew and remove the three mounting bolts of the gear selection mechanism using a 10-inch spanner, then remove it.
33. Remove the magnet from the clutch housing.
34. Unscrew the speed sensor fixing nut using a “10” spanner, and then remove the sensor.
35. Replace the speed sensor O-ring if it is damaged or loose.
36. Remove the reversing light switch by unscrewing it from the gearbox housing. There is a metal seal ring underneath.
37. Press out the front bearing of the output shaft using a special puller or screwdriver.
38. Dismantle the oil collector (it is located under the bearing).
39. Press out the input shaft front bearing using a special puller. If you do not have a puller, construct a hook-shaped fixture with stiff wire. Mount the manufactured device into one of the grooves in the crankcase and insert the hook under the bearing. Press the bearing out of the crankcase as follows:
- put a screwdriver in the hook;
- put a block of wood under the screwdriver;
- do not hit with a hammer on the opposite inserted end of the screwdriver;
- alternately rearrange the hook in the grooves.
40. Press the new shaft bearings into the clutch housing up to the stop using a suitable mandrel.
41. Using a screwdriver, pry up the lip of the selector shaft protector, then slide it off the stem support bushing.
42. Unscrew the fastening bolt (3) of the gear selection lever (2). Dismantle the gear selection lever by displacing the rod (1), and then remove the gear selection rod from the clutch housing.
43. If it is necessary to replace the stem joint:
- slide the protection cover off the stem;
- unscrew and remove the hinge fixing bolt.
Note. The bolt is fixed with special TB-1324 glue;
- before screwing in the bolt, clean it from the layer of old glue, and then apply a new one;
- Replace the damaged or lost elasticity / elasticity cover for protecting the stem hinge.
44. If it is necessary to replace the clutch housing:
- remove the bearing from the clutch housing;
- remove the clutch release fork;
- press out the oil seals.
45. Inspect the clutch and gearbox housings, as well as the rear cover. Cracks, chips and other similar damage are not allowed. The seating surfaces should not have nicks, dents, deep marks and similar defects. It is allowed to repair minor damage using abrasive paper. Replace parts if defects are significant.
46. Check the bearing seats in the clutch housing and in the gearbox housing. If damage is found to the seats, the crankcases should be replaced.
47. Check roller bearings. Replace if damaged raceways, cage or rollers. Also, the bearings should be replaced if any play is found.
48. Inspect the gear shift rods for scoring, burrs, worn out holes for fixing elements and other defects. Replace the rods on which they are found.
49. Inspect the axle seals. Tears and traces of warpage are not allowed. Also, the presence of dents, sagging of rubber, deep grooves on their working edge is not allowed. The packing spring must be elastic, not broken or deformed. Defective oil seals must be replaced.
50. Replace damaged and heavily crimped gaskets.
51. Clean the magnet from wear particles of parts. Replace the magnet if cracks appear or the magnetic properties are weakened.
52.Carefully remove the remnants of the old sealant from the mating surfaces of the clutch housing and the gearbox housing.
53. Assemble the gearbox in the reverse order of disassembly, taking into account the following points:
- before installing the shafts in the clutch housing, insert the teeth of the shaft gears into engagement;
- liberally lubricate all rubbing parts and assemblies with gear oil;
- place the magnet in its place;
- Apply a sealant around the entire perimeter of the mating surfaces of the clutch housing and rear cover.
54. Install the gearbox.
Problems with the 2nd gear were initially, from the moment of purchasing this fret priors. Well, how can I say the problem, at first it did not turn on at all, then it began to turn on with a crunch (we are talking about a quick start and switching from 1st to 2nd at 6000-6500 rpm, there were no problems with normal driving).
On the recommendation of his father, he signed up for a service, where he repairs his car. (by the way, the service turned out to be very good, now only there :), located opposite the traffic police)
Since the box had to undergo an autopsy, I ran through the thought to put the 18th row and a pair of 3.9.
When they disassembled the box, in principle, they were not surprised by anything 😀
As a result, they were bought and exchanged
I also bought a Kalinovsky cardan along with an anther (you can pull the Priorovsky horseradish :)) and a short-stroke stage.
The line of Lada Priora models - VAZ-2170-2172 - has existed for 7 years and over the years has gained many fans. This is a budget car, the design of which is considered among the owners to be not fully finalized, therefore, you should especially carefully monitor the serviceability of all technical units. Unfortunately, cases of malfunctions in the operation of important components, including the gearbox, are detected in the very first months of operation. During the break-in period of the car, it is much easier to eliminate design flaws than after a solid run.
Priora gearbox repair - 2000 p. Exchange of the Priora gearbox with installation - 6000 r. (with the whole body)
Priora gearbox and its typical breakdowns Gearbox vaz priora does not differ much from the box of the 12th model: five-speed, mechanical, combined in one crankcase with a differential and a main gear. Like its predecessors, this car shows its strengths and weaknesses during operation. Here are some typical faults gearbox lada priora : incomplete or spontaneous engagement and disengagement of the clutch, jerks and extraneous noise in the box, oil leakage. They can be easily removed in our car service after thorough diagnostics carried out by an experienced specialist.
Changing the gearbox is a practical solution If the car already has a solid mileage, it is better not to repair the gearbox, but to change it. We can gearbox prior to buy and install in a short time and at an affordable price. Self-replacement of the prior gearbox for many car owners is not difficult, but it is better to entrust this work to a professional who knows all the features of the car and has experience in carrying out this operation.
The gearbox is being improved In 2010, AvtoVAZ modernized the gearbox on the Priora, reinforcing the output shaft by installing needle bearings and a new type of gears. The new unit has become much more reliable and durable. In our car service you can install Priora gearbox of a new type for a car of any model year. Sitting behind the wheel of the updated Lada, the driver will immediately feel the difference in the control and movement of the car, if earlier there was prior gearbox of the old model ... If the faults in the gearbox are not critical and can be eliminated, our technicians will produce a qualified Priora gearbox repair quickly and efficiently. Computer diagnostics will help to determine breakdowns.
Gearbox tuning is a great opportunity to improve the Lada Priora. We also have all the possibilities to produce any tuning gearbox prior - the selection of a complete set is made in accordance with the operating conditions of the car: race, city, track, as well as with the characteristics of the engine and the desired speed limit. You can choose a tuning kit by reading photo of the Priora gearbox in our catalog, as well as with the technical characteristics of each set. We have a wide selection of non-standard configurations with a variety of gear ratios. For fans of a sporty driving style, street racers in our car service can be configured sport gearbox prior , which allows you to realize the maximum potential of the engine. The conventional range of gearboxes is designed for average engine performance, while the sports range with an increased gear ratio redistributes the engine torque to the required speed range and thus brings the dynamics of the car in line with the tasks set.
Timely repair, exchange and tuning of the Lada Priora gearbox are the types of work that will increase the service life of this flagship of the Russian car industry and give it new, wider opportunities. In our car service we will help to bring the car to a high level.
Lada Priora is a modern, comfortable car that has a manual transmission with five forward gears and one reverse. Synchronizers are available on all main switches. Structurally combined with differential and final drive. The gearbox housing consists of three cast steel parts:
The operating mode and service life of the Priora gearbox is fully dependent on the availability of lubricant and operating conditions. Therefore, it is necessary to constantly monitor the oil level in the box and do not forget to change it in time. According to the technical characteristics of the Priora manufacturer, the transmission oil must be changed every 75,000 kilometers or after 5 years. Whichever period comes earlier, on that and rely on.
Where torque is transmitted by gear pairs, including in a gearbox, transmission oils must be used.
Dynamic viscosity - at low temperature conditions, in winter time, resistance to shear of the thickened oil occurs, which is a poor indicator in the operation of transmission units. The pour point is an indicator of the hardness of the oil in cold weather.But even when the lubricant solidifies, there is a possibility that the gears can turn without applying torque to them. The viscosity index is a parameter that characterizes the change in the viscosity of the transmission oil with respect to temperature. If a car enthusiast wants the car to feel good on the road, he must constantly monitor the checkpoint. Its regular check and maintenance of technical condition plays an important role in the operation of machine units.
To properly maintain the level, the oil in the gearbox is periodically topped up using a funnel and a hose put on it.
In this table, gear oils are classified by quality. The letters indicate the quality and scope of the grease, and the numbers indicate the temperature regime. When using synthetic materials, the temperature limits expand, which is not possible with mineral oils. In the process of using oils in transmissions, changes in their physical composition occur.
All these lubricants belong to the same technical group and can be chosen by each motorist at their discretion. Individual assessment of products, payment for work on its change, the desire to keep the transmissions in working order as long as possible - all this will help to choose the transmission oil for the Priora car produced by AvtoVAZ. When buying a car, each driver should carefully read the "Priora Operation Manual", where you can find the recommended brands of oils for cars and their characteristics. When choosing a lubricant for Priora, pay attention to the climatic conditions and the intensity of use of the machine. Conclusions:
Bon voyage and don't forget about the correct choice!
The replacement of the hinges of equal angular velocities on the Lada Priora car is carried out if there is a knocking or grinding noise in the drives when cornering, they are also changed if the anthers are damaged or when there is a backlash in the transverse direction. It makes no sense to disassemble and repair the hinge, since the dirt that got through the torn boot has already brought its parts to [...]
VIDEO
Replacing the gearbox oil seals on the Lada Priora is a rather complicated process that must be performed strictly according to all points of our guide. You can replace it yourself, we recommend that you do it in a well-lit garage.
To replace the oil seals of the internal constant velocity joints (CV joints), drain the oil from the gearbox.
Do-it-yourself replacement of the gearbox oil seals on the Lada Priora.
1. Disconnect the front wheel drives from the transmission.
Warning. Do not disconnect both drives at the same time, as in this case the gears of the axle shafts may shift in the differential and it will be impossible to install the drives without disassembling the gearbox. If you need to disconnect both actuators after disconnecting one of them, replace the process plug or old inner hinge housing. Then disconnect the second drive.
2. Using a screwdriver, remove the oil seal of the inner hinge from the box crankcase.
3. Press in a new oil seal using a suitable mandrel until it stops with the working edge inside the box.
Note. The oil drainage notches on the seals of the right and left inner hinges are directed in different directions.
For identification purposes, the seals are marked with arrows and part numbers: on the right gland a (p / n 2110-2301034-01) the arrow is directed counterclockwise, on the left gland b (p / n 2110-2301035-01) - clockwise. The arrows show the direction of rotation of the wheels when the vehicle is moving forward.
4. Install all removed parts and assemblies in the reverse order of removal.
The cause of the oiling of the clutch discs may be a leak in the oil seal of the input shaft of the gearbox or the rear oil seal of the crankshaft.
Recommendation. There is another way to determine the type of oil. Put oil in a thin layer of water poured into the vessel. The transmission oil will spread over the entire surface of the water in the form of an iridescent film, while the engine oil will remain in the form of a drop, similar to a grain of lentils.
To replace the input shaft seal, it is necessary to remove the gearbox from the vehicle.
You will need: the same tools as for replacing the clutch release bearing, as well as a key "10", a screwdriver.
1. Remove the clutch release bearing.
2. Remove the three bolts securing the guide bush. Remove the guide bush.
3. Use a fine wire hook or screwdriver to remove the oil seal. Press in a new oil seal using a suitable mandrel. The lip of the oil seal must point towards the inside of the transmission.
4. Install the removed parts in the reverse order of removal.
The gear shift rod oil seal can be replaced directly on the Lada Priora.
You will need: a key "10", a thin chisel, a hammer, a mandrel for pressing the oil seal.
1. Remove the dirt cover from the hinge and slide it over the shift shaft.
2. Remove the bolt securing the hinge to the gear shift rod.
3. Then disconnect the selector rod with the joint from the rod.
Notes (edit) ... The hinge-to-rod bolt is different in length and color from those used in the gearbox for attaching the forks and the gear lever. This bolt is cadmium-plated (gold plated), the rest of the bolts are phosphated (dark plated). Do not replace this bolt with others.
Replace a bolt with a damaged taper shank or thread.
The bolt is fixed with special TB-1324 glue. Before screwing in the bolt, clean it from the old glue, degrease the threaded part and apply new glue. If no special adhesive is available, use a commercially available anaerobic thread lock.
4. Remove the dirt cover.
Notes (edit) ... Replace torn or cracked dirt cover.
5. Leaning the chisel on the collar of the stem oil seal holder, press the holder out of the gearbox housing with gentle hammer blows.
6. Then remove it from the stem and gland assembly.
7. Using a suitable mandrel (you can use the head from the tool kit) press out.
8. Now remove the oil seal from the yoke.
9. Press the new oil seal into the cage until it stops with the working edge inside the gearbox.
10. Lubricate the working edge of the oil seal with transmission oil and with light hammer blows press the yoke together with the oil seal into the gearbox housing until it stops.
11. Install all removed parts and assemblies in the reverse order of removal.
Video (click to play).
The replacement of the gearbox oil seals on the Lada Priora has been successfully completed. Recall that the previous article was about replacing the cooling system radiator with a Lada Priora with your own hands.
