DIY box srv repair

An automatic gearbox is the most expensive unit in a car to repair, which is why when the first signs of a problem appear, it is necessary to immediately eliminate the defect. If this is not done on time, then in the future it can turn into more serious problems. And if you contact a specialized service, then repairs there can be very expensive. Motorists, having studied the spare parts market, come to one conclusion - that doing it yourself is a pretty good idea, since you can save a lot.

We have prepared this article specifically for those who have never encountered problems in the gearbox, as well as if you are planning to repair it on your own. We will tell you in detail, using an example, how to repair an automatic transmission srv rd1 with your own hands. We will also share with you some interesting knowledge, in the future they will help you extend the life of your car.

In the 21st century, absolutely all cars moving on highways are insured; in the event of a malfunction, most of the costs can be covered. But the insurance also specifies the conditions that repair and maintenance can be carried out only in special auto repair shops. Otherwise, if suddenly the repairs were carried out in other places or on their own, then all guarantees will be lost.

And if you still decide to do the repair yourself, then you should be aware that if any parts of the car are disassembled, no one will pay you the damage caused to it.

It is strictly forbidden to move the car by towing, especially if there is an excess of oil in the box. Do not forget to change the oil in the car - it is recommended to do this every 20 thousand kilometers. This, of course, is an individual indicator and it depends on many other factors, but it definitely needs to be changed more often than once a year. Too much oil in the box is also not good, because it will start to foam and will not dissipate heat well from the transmission. Therefore, it is advisable to check the oil whenever you are especially going on a long trip.

Video (click to play).

The whole process takes place according to the following plan:

Removing the box from the case.

New complete set with spare parts.

The structure of all ACKP is the same, and therefore it will not present difficulties. The differences are only in the transmission control device, it can be either electronic or hydraulic. And therefore, the repair process will have minor differences.

Most of all transmission problems arise from improper use of the vehicle. Now we will share with you the main factors that further lead to the disruption of the entire transmission:

Insufficient or excessive oil level, because of this, the gears wear out quickly and jerks and breakdowns may occur when shifting;

Towing, we have already talked about this, and you need to remember that you should not tow the car;

Sharp braking and acceleration also lead to rapid wear of parts;

The gear knob is stuck - find out more about how the automatic transmission is being repaired

It is advisable to detect irregularities in the operation of the gearbox at the very first stages, so you do not have to completely go through the gearbox and get very wasted. There are plenty of signs of problems in the box, but we will tell you the most common ones:

Distinctive sounds when shifting gears, there may also be an extraneous odor;

If the gear does not engage at all, this is a sign of a serious malfunction, and emergency repairs will need to be done;

You should always check the surface under the car for any stains. If they are found, then this indicates a leak, and this problem will need to be addressed.

Repair of this car can be done both by specialists and by hand. As with all cars, in order to disassemble the box, you need to remove it. To do this, you need to disconnect the subframe part, disassemble the lower stabilizers. The repair process consists in disassembling the box, identifying problems and eliminating them, and then all this work is done in the reverse order. Do not forget to check the operation of the torque converter, and the entire integrity of its device. Because parts can be worn out there, and this is not good.

Next, you should check the condition of the friction sections, they can fail very often, mainly due to sudden braking. After all the steps have been completed, you need to mount the box back into the car. First of all, all the attachments, and then the torque converter, and at the end, fix the transfer case. It should be noted that such work without fail requires at least minimal knowledge in the structure of the car. You can repair a Honda CR-V car with your own hands, but still there are cases that you will have to contact a professional at a service station.

The box is a very complex mechanism that must be looked after, otherwise it can lead to negative consequences. If you take care of the car correctly, then the box repair may not be necessary even after 250 thousand kilometers. Therefore, try to drive correctly and not rape your car. An example of good serviceability is Japanese cars from the 1980s. Some of them have already covered about a million thousand kilometers. Do not forget about your car, and then it will serve you for many years without major repairs.

We hope that our article was useful for you, and you could figure out how to properly repair the automatic transmission "Honda" SRV RD-1 with your own hands. You should not wait for the most terrible signal from your car so that you do not have to change it. Pay attention even on small signs, and then the car will thank you with a long service life. We wish you every success!

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yes, these are the prices in our region! shocked myself

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What can be done with the transmission case.

You can change the support bearings of the shafts, for this you need to move the circlip apart and carefully work with heads of large diameters and a hammer.

The idle gear ZX is also fixed there. There is also an auxiliary shaft with a gear and a reduced friction clutch. It is used when the selector is in “1” - you will notice that only in this position in the first gear there is engine braking.
In general, it can be disassembled - just squeeze the shaft inside the box, and move the gear, bearings and friction clutch to the side. There is no need to unscrew the nut (there is one). Flush everything, replace the oil seals on the shaft, disassemble and wash the friction clutch, change the rubber bands and discs on it. I did, since the repair kit had steel discs and rubber bands for this shaft. But in general, you can leave it alone. When reassembling, according to the manual, you need to put a new ATP guide cap (although the old one was like nothing).

On cable-operated boxes, you can change the small shaft seal of that same cable. Change the oil seal of the right inner CV joint.
That's it, the main cavity of the box has opened.

Remove the Reverse gear bushing, needle bearing and ZX gear from the output shaft. Unscrew the bolt from the ZX shift fork, remove the fork together with the selector ring. Now pull out both shaft assemblies together.

Further, the differential is removed in assembly

Change the seals of the left inner CV joint, input shaft in the torque converter housing.
Be careful when removing oil seals! Do not damage the case, it is aluminum, easily wrinkled and scratched. Rough scratches can be wiped off with # 600 sandpaper soaked in ATF for half an hour. Lubricate new oil seals with ATF. I used a hammer during installation - gently tapping on the oil seal in a circle, the most tedious thing is to insert the first millimeters with the whole circle.
There is also a control shaft oil seal (which transfers mode switching from the selector cable to the manual valve of the box). This oil seal can be changed without any problems.

Remove the filter (it can be in principle and immediately removed as the case was opened
It looks like it is clean, but it was worth washing it like dirt like from a boot ...
I will not buy a new one, I washed myself completely, and behind the walls too.
Turned on the bottom of the flashlight for clearance

in general, many recommend changing it, if there was dirt in the trash on it, I probably would have done so!
Inspecting the shaft

they should not influence the work, but where did such crap come from? I looked at the pictures of who repaired how - the same badass ... well, they do not look like the factory ones!
Next, we see the oil seals on the shaft

And watch where they go
to be continued in the following.

What can be done with the transmission case.

You can change the support bearings of the shafts, for this you need to move the circlip apart and carefully work with heads of large diameters and a hammer.

The idle gear ZX is also fixed there. There is also an auxiliary shaft with a gear and a reduced friction clutch. It is used when the selector is in “1” - you will notice that only in this position in the first gear there is engine braking.
In general, it can be disassembled - just squeeze the shaft inside the box, and move the gear, bearings and friction clutch to the side. There is no need to unscrew the nut (there is one). Flush everything, replace the oil seals on the shaft, disassemble and wash the friction clutch, change the rubber bands and discs on it. I did, since the repair kit had steel discs and rubber bands for this shaft. But in general, you can leave it alone. When reassembling, according to the manual, you need to put a new ATP guide cap (although the old one was like nothing).

On cable-operated boxes, you can change the small shaft seal of that same cable. Change the oil seal of the right inner CV joint.
That's it, the main cavity of the box has opened.

Automatic transmission repair S4XA Honda S-MX. Part I. Disassembly.

Repair of automatic transmission М4ТА. HONDA CR-V RD1 B20B.