Do-it-yourself body redecoration

In detail: do-it-yourself body redecoration from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Timely body repair and, if necessary, painting the car can significantly extend the life of the vehicle. After all, the body is the most expensive element of the car, so the owner must periodically inspect not only the upper and side parts of the car, but also look under the bottom and under the hood.

The sooner the car owner discovers body problems and proceeds to solve them, the cheaper it costs him to repair. The most harmless chip reveals the metal, which becomes defenseless against corrosion. And now, after a year, rust destroys the integrity of the metal element, forming a through hole.

In modern cars, manufacturers use different materials in the manufacture of body parts. The most popular materials are:

Accordingly, when operating a car, each of them has certain problems that can be classified into several groups:

Car body repair requires not only a lot of tools, special devices, but also good skills in each type of work. A rare master bodyworker can boast of high qualifications in welding, straightening, filling and painting at the same time.

All body repairs can be divided into the following types:

Eliminating minor damage to the body can be repaired not only in the workshop, but also in your garage. Especially when the owner of the car is concerned about preventing corrosive processes.

The negative impact of scratches, chips and other minor damage to the protective paint layer can be leveled with your own hands. This will require materials such as:

Video (click to play).

sandpaper,
putty,
solvent 646,
primer and paint.

The motorist needs to be patient and not rush things. Fresh damage is enough to clean from dust and dirt, and then wipe with a cloth soaked in solvent. After the surface has dried, a layer of primer is applied using a thin brush or foam pad. And after the primer has completely dried, paint is applied. If the paint is well matched, then the painted over scratch or chip will not stand out.

The appearance of traces of corrosion requires preliminary mechanical treatment. Sandpaper is suitable for this, or even better, sandblasting. The fine nozzle of a sandblasting gun allows you to clean surfaces of any surface and shape. The cleaned metal is degreased with a solvent, and then the repair area is leveled with a putty. Grinding should be done after the material has completely hardened.

It is not always possible to level the surface in one layer. Therefore, the putty can be reapplied after sanding and degreasing. As soon as the condition of the repair site satisfies the master, it remains to perform priming and painting.

Most car manufacturers treat the underside of the car with special mastics. They are able to successfully fight corrosion for more than a dozen years (see how better to process the bottom). It is important that the integrity of the protective layer is not compromised.

However, when driving on country roads, meadows and forest roads, the underbody of the vehicle can be damaged. And if you do not protect the bare metal in a timely manner, then a year later, through holes will appear in the floor of the machine. It is not difficult to repair the protective layer of the bottom, but it is not very convenient. Be sure to use goggles or protective masks to protect your eyes from abrasive and paint material.

In addition to sandpaper, solvent and primer, it is necessary to additionally purchase bitumen mastic.

The damaged areas of the bottom are cleaned of dirt and rust. After that, residues of dust and greasy stains are removed with the help of a solvent. The metal is first primed, and after drying it is treated with mastic.

In every car body there are many places where it is not possible for a motorist to get there. Among them, the most vulnerable are:

the inner surfaces of the side members,
niches for doors and trunk lids,
thresholds.

To prevent the formation of foci of corrosion, you should do a preventive treatment with a protective agent such as "Movil". It is best to use a compressor and a gun with a special nozzle. The spray gun has an elongated “barrel” with a nozzle through which a protective material is sprayed inside the niche of the body element. In some cases, you can use traditional grease fittings and automotive syringes.

Before processing, thick mastic is diluted in a suitable solvent or heated in a water bath. When using protective components in cylinders, you just need to shake its contents and use the appropriate nozzle. Read more and watch a video about car anti-corrosion treatment.

New technologies are currently being used to deal with dents. They allow you to level the surface of the body element without resorting to filling and painting (see detailed material on removing dents without painting). Such restoration is possible only when the paint and varnish layer is intact. In the presence of chips and delamination in the dent, you will have to resort to traditional operations.

And so, first of all, it is necessary to try to reduce the depth and area of the concave section. For this purpose, a metered force must be applied on the inside of the body element using a suitable tool. This can be a pry bar, screwdriver, hammer handle, etc. To avoid scratching the body from the inside, use rubber tips. A piece of rubber is attached to the tool with electrical tape or a piece of string.

When it is possible to even out the concavity as much as possible, you should proceed to surface cleaning, filling, priming and painting.

When a car body needs complex repairs, you will inevitably have to turn to professionals. Indeed, in addition to special skills, overhaul of the body requires specific equipment and devices.

Often, welding is not complete to solve body problems. And if you can make a patch on a spar even with a home-made welding machine, then on thin body elements, work must be done with a semiautomatic device in an environment of carbon dioxide.

Correction of the configuration of some body parts is possible if there is a slipway in the garage. The use of a hammer, sledgehammer and crowbar will not allow you to accurately restore the geometry of the body, and subsequently this will cause increased wear of tires and suspension parts.

There are a number of factors to consider before choosing a body repair method. Motorists can fix minor damage to the body with their own hands. If overhaul of the body is required, as well as when the motorist puts forward high demands on the appearance of his beloved car, it is better to turn to trusted bodywork masters.

Many of us would like to engage in body repair, but we do not dare for reasons: “it’s difficult”, “it is expensive”, “screw it up”, “I don’t know how to do it right”, etc. However, getting the first knowledge is very easy and not expensive at all. Let's figure out how to restore a car body part, prepare it for repainting and paint it.

Small scratches that are only on the surface of the paintwork can be removed by polishing. And if the scratches are deep (to the ground or metal), then painting of the damaged site is already necessary.

Hello everyone! My name is Mikhail, now I'll tell you a story about how I managed to exchange a dvenashka for a 2010 Camry. It all started with the fact that I was wildly annoyed by the breakdowns of the two, like nothing serious broke down, but the little things, damn it, so many things that really started to enrage. Here the idea was born that it was time to change the car to a foreign car. The choice fell on the tayet Camry of the tenths.

Painting can be of two types: partial painting of the car (local, when the part is painted with a transition) and full (the whole part is painted).

Image - Do-it-yourself body redecoration

Local car painting it is necessary in those cases when it is necessary to restore only a certain part of the body. The advantage of such painting is that the body parts are not dismantled, and therefore the body factory assembly of the car is not disturbed.
Painting the entire part as a whole done only when necessary if the scratches or dents are deep and take up a large area on the car body parts.

All car enthusiasts who want to try paint the car with your own hands the first thing to think about is spray paint. And then the question arises:

Answer: Of course you can paint, but you cannot paint with high quality. Why ?

Firstly, the spray can has an uneven spray, so it becomes very difficult to paint a car with high quality. In addition, the ink jet is too strong, so it is easy to get ink smudges as a result.

Secondly, it is very rare to get into the color from a spray can, especially considering that the paint on the car fades over time. Let's say you were able to pick the color as accurately as possible, paint it, and the result suits you completely. But do not forget about the quality of such paint, as a rule, after a year the painted area fades. In addition, it poorly protects the body from weathering and can be easily washed off even with a weak solvent. And in this case, you can completely forget about normal polishing.

It is important to remember that painting a car must take place in a special room that meets a number of requirements (no dust and wind, suitable temperature and humidity). It is not allowed to paint the car on the street.
If one of the rules is not followed, the paint may turn out to be spots, there will be shagreen (the surface of the paint is not smooth, but like an orange peel), smudges, etc.

Thus, if we are talking about painting from a spray can, then there is no need to talk about aesthetics.
But if you are still set for such work, then try to apply thin layers of paint (at a greater distance from the part) and do at least 3 layers. Spray paint video can be found in this article. Spray paint is best used to partially paint the bumper, but forget about full spray painting of the car.

Now, let's analyze how to paint a car with high quality at home:

To apply a high-quality primer on the working surface, we already need a compressor (with a pressure gauge and adjustment), a spray gun (not necessarily expensive) and a respirator. We cover the whole machine with paper or foil. If the primer gets on the paint and has time to dry, then consider that it remains there forever. We degrease the surface well and apply in a couple of layers.

We remove the paper and proceed to the processing of the soil (800 sandpaper on wet). As soon as the ground is perfectly smooth and even with the body to the touch, the preparation process for painting can be considered complete.

Remember that a correctly and carefully prepared part is the key to a good car painting!

High quality paint the car is possible only if it works choose the right color... The paint should match perfectly with the previous coating. It is best to contact a professional colorist who will not only correctly select the color, but also provide you with high-quality paint.

Before painting, you need to decide exactly which part of the body we will cover with varnish. We glue the rest. It is imperative to remove all gloss from the wing (mat). This is done with 800-1000 sandpaper on a wet or special scotch-bright sponge (reminiscent of a rough sponge for washing dishes). We degrease and, if desired, wipe with a sticky napkin to remove small specks.
Painting a car at home involves working in a dusty garage. Therefore, it is recommended to nail down the dust with a water spray before painting.

Car painting technology always involves the application of several layers of paint. When using light-colored paints, it may be necessary to apply a preliminary coat of paint to paint over the primer.
So, first coat of paint spreads out onto the ground, overlapping it and the wing itself a little.
Second layer apply in a minute and in another minute third, basic. Air pressure during painting should be about 4 atm. Lack or excess of pressure during painting will not lead to anything good.
After the third layer we get a matte painted wing:

At room temperature, the paint dries for about 15 minutes. If, after drying, irregularities come out (as after a primer), then the part was poorly prepared for painting. You cannot touch the painted surface with your hands, otherwise you will have to degrease again, and the solvent will simply wipe off the paint.

Further detail you need varnish... It is recommended to once again gently walk with a sticky napkin, because the varnish is very sensitive even to tiny grains of sand. It is better to dilute the varnish even before applying the paint, since it needs to be infused for at least 20-30 minutes for air bubbles to come out.
You can varnish at will, either while the paint is not completely dry, or wait for final drying.

First coat of varnish (base) should be very thin and applied to the entire surface of the part.
Second coat of varnish (main) we apply after 2 minutes exposure, also evenly over the entire working surface. It is not worth pouring a lot of varnish, otherwise it will flow.

If dust got under the varnish, then polishing will help to correct the situation, but only after a week, when the varnish is completely dry!

Car painting cost, and in particular the wing that was discussed in the photo report, is:

Emery - 100 rubles;
Solvent 646 - 120 rubles;
Putty - 50 rubles;
Primer - 70 rubles;
Paint - 300 rubles;
Varnish - 200 rubles;

Total 900 rubles.

The main problem with silver shades is the so-called apple-like effect, where the paint is blotting. This happens if the paint is applied unevenly and when one layer of paint is overlapped with another, the shade changes and, as a result, either stripes or spots of a different shade appear. To prevent this from happening, when applying the last layer of paint, the painter increases the air supply in the spray gun and applies the last layer of paint by spray method, observing that the paint layer is sprayed onto the surface evenly.

After the paint dries, the ground begins to show through or the applied layers of paint (base) look like a zebra, for example, the silver color in places looks like black. The reason is an insufficiently painted surface.

If the painted part becomes dull after drying, then the reason is high humidity.

Varnish smudges can be caused by too thin varnish, too much varnish or insufficient intermediate drying between varnish coats.

How many illustrations do not publish, and the video material has always been more visual and understandable.

Video of painting a car in a garage:

Video painting a car by a professional:

Of course, it is impossible to paint a car locally without having the initial skills and experience. But you can always practice on an old bumper or paint a VAZ car, which is no longer afraid of painter's mistakes.
Do not be afraid and do not panic, believe in yourself, because this is just a piece of iron! By the way, there are other ways to deal with rust.

In order to get rid of constant fines from cameras, many of our readers successfully use Special Nano Film for numbers. Legal and 100% reliable way to protect yourself from fines. Having familiarized ourselves and carefully studying this method, we decided to offer it to you as well.

Hello dear motorists! One fine sunny morning, having cast a glance at your car, you suddenly notice that the paintwork is not at all in the perfect condition it was some time ago.

This is especially true for the front of the car. Chips on the bonnet and bumper, scratches on the front fenders or doors. And even small dents, which are especially clearly visible in bright daylight. These are natural defects that arise as a result of movement, independent of your driving skill. Small stones, crushed stone from passing cars, branches when going into the forest for a picnic - these are the causes of defects in the paintwork.

Even if you are not very worried about the appearance of the car, its aesthetics, we still recommend that you repair chips, scratches, dents on the body with your own hands. Why on your own? The reason is simple. You will spend a little time and money on redecorating the body, but eliminate the root cause of the appearance and spread of rust in the future at the place of the chip or scratch. How to remove rust is described in detail in this article.

Again, the economic side of the matter - if you contact the service, then, most likely, you will be offered to repair scratches and chips on the body along the entire part. For example, a completely hood or fender. So banknotes are unlikely to save enough.

Having found a chip, dent or scratch on the body, we begin the repair with a thorough troubleshooting of the place. If the dent on the body does not clearly damage the paintwork, then do not touch it. If you see cracks from the epicenter of the dent, then we repair the dent on the body according to the same principle as repairing chips and scratches.

Repair of dents on the car body, if they are small and without damage to the paintwork, is carried out with a special non-professional device. The principle of its operation is simple: the suction cup necessary for the area is glued with hot glue, after the glue has hardened, the stop from the kit is put on the suction cup and we pull the dent out.

Troubleshooting. Determine the depth of damage to the paintwork. Here we pay attention to how deep the chip or scratch is. The material for the repair that you need depends on this.

In case of damage to the top layer of varnish and paint, the repair of a chip and a scratch on the body will cost "little blood". A cosmetic pencil or polish of the appropriate color will be enough. Both car pencil and polish are designed to repair shallow chips and scratches on the body.

By the way, when choosing paint colors for redecorating chips and scratches in the body, use the instructions for your car, the so-called. "Manual". However, do not forget that different manufacturers may use different paint markings. For accuracy of selection, they usually take a flap from the gas tank to the store.

If the chip or scratch has a great depth or area, then you will need a primer and putty, in addition to paint. Although, here we are no longer talking about repairing a scratch or chip on the body, but about partial painting of a body part.

Training... We thoroughly clean the place of the defect from dirt, traces of rust, if any. We make stripping to the ground.Degrease.

Primer... During troubleshooting, you decided what kind of primer you need: for paint or for metal. Apply a primer with a rubber spatula and let it dry. Then we clean up the area again. That is, all procedures are performed in accordance with the body painting technology, only on a small area.

Painting... Before applying paint to the repair site, cover the surrounding surface of the body part with film or paper and masking tape. Apply paint from a spray can in accordance with the instructions. If you use a "pencil" to repair a scratch or chip, then apply paint in two or three layers. Do not immediately remove the resulting influx. Let the paint dry.

After repairing a chip or scratch in the body and complete drying of the paint, polish the body at the place of repair. Given that the damage area is small, the body can be polished without the use of equipment, i.e. manually.

If you have too large a scratch area on the car body, repairs will most likely need to be done on the entire body part. Here already one "pencil" is indispensable.

In the same way, the repair of plastic parts is carried out with the only difference that the means for plastic surfaces are used.

The body is the main element of the car, ensuring its proper operation. This component has a complex structure and is subject to high loads from time to time. Therefore, problems arise that require intervention. Body repair allows you to restore damage and return the car to working condition.

The reasons for the repair are two factors:

The most common manifestation of the first factor is wear and tear. Most of the damage to the body is a natural process. This component has an operational period, after which the strength values decrease and it becomes vulnerable. The most common cause of wear is corrosion.

Sometimes the cause of problems with the body is non-observance of the rules for storing a car, or improper use. These actions are related to the human factor. Also included in this category:

constructive flaws made by the manufacturer;
malfunctions of defects arising from the assembly of the machine;
damage resulting from poor quality repairs.

The human factor includes road accidents. More than 50% of accidents involve damage to the car body.

General body faults:

operational;
constructive;
technological.

Body damage includes damage to the original condition of an element, from minor scratches to large dents or creases.

The organization of the technological process of work on car restoration begins with diagnostics.

Diagnostics determines the presence of all faults, their features and nature. This makes it easier to choose a way to repair the body. Diagnostics is performed in three stages:

The paintwork of the machine is inspected for defects.
An assessment of the geometry of the body is given - if there are irregularities, an inspection without special equipment is sufficient.
A quality examination is carried out to determine the condition of the welded seams and fasteners. This task requires attention and experience, since the main load is distributed among these elements.

After troubleshooting, a repair plan is drawn up.

Body repair is a set of technological actions aimed at restoring the body. The basis of this process involves the elimination of damage of any nature.

There are two types of body repair:

full - used when repairing large damage. Most often it is used when restoring a car after an accident;
local - used when detecting scratches, chips and other minor damages.

Car body repair technology depends on the level of malfunctions. At a high level using full recovery, special equipment is required.

This type of body restoration can be done at home. Local repair does not require laborious actions, and is used to repair minor damage. Body repair includes restoration of:

scratches and chips;
small dents;
early stage of metal rust.

External body repairs are performed using:

External repair cannot eliminate the dimensional damage to the elements. Additional tools for airbrushing and glass cloth processing may be required.

In most cases, the restoration of the body by an overhaul method cannot be performed independently. Its implementation requires professional equipment and special skills. This type of restoration work involves the dismantling of the car. Its purpose is to detect all defects and minor damage. During the restoration, even minor elements are removed.

To detect hidden defects, contact welding zones are drilled out.

Welding works are carried out upon detection:

corrosion of parts;
cracks in the body structure;
deep deformation of parts.

Overhaul is not complete without replacing damaged structural elements.

The main tool used to restore the car body is the slipway. This tool is constructed with high strength values sufficient for power work. The main alignment action is to drag. It involves the use of a system of fasteners acting on points of the structure, under pressure on which the body part takes on its original shape. This task involves a high level of complexity, which is difficult to cope with in the absence of experience.

The slipway provides the measurements required for accurate repair work. Geometry alignment is carried out in stages:

Secure the vehicle on the slipway platform.
After calculating the points on the machines, the rig is attached to them.
Start slipway installation.

After starting, the slipway and rigging automatically pulls the damage into the desired shape. The equipment assumes the use of a computer program that calculates the required level of effort and an indicator for measuring the rack.

The advantage of the slipway installation is that it does not violate the quality of the metal in the fault zones during their elimination.

Do-it-yourself car body repair of car dents is carried out in three ways:

With glue. Straightening or editing is done using the Pops-a-Dent kit. It includes a heat gun, silicone glue, special rods. After applying the glue and fixing the rods, you must wait until it hardens. Then carefully pull out the dents along with the rods.
Using a vacuum. The main special tool is a vacuum suction cup. It attaches to the surface of the dent, creating a vacuum. The dent can then be pulled out without risk of damaging the coating surface. Using vacuum pads is a paint-free way to remove dents.
PDR technology. With the help of special levers, which are inserted through the technological holes of the car, it is possible to reach large dents and remove them by extrusion.

The last method is not recommended for doing it yourself. PDR technology is used by those who have good skills in using professional equipment.

If standard local body repair fails, patches are used. They are used to seal holes in the car body. The patch allows you to repair through rust, if the hole diameter does not exceed 8-10 centimeters. Otherwise, the part is completely replaced.

Before attaching the patch, the edges of the hole are processed. The patch itself must have a diameter exceeding the size of the damage (welded overlapping). For its manufacture, thin metal is used. For fastening, a continuous seam is used. It is recommended to use semi-automatic welding machines.

Scratches and chips are removed with minor body repairs. It involves the use of paint and polish. Additionally, you can apply a primer. The surface is sanded, then a protective coating is applied. New technologies provide sanding, after which the abrasion will not be visible. Cosmetic repairs are easy to do at home.

The paint must match the color of the body finish. Otherwise, the surface of the machine will look unpresentable.

For painting in accordance with the technology of car repair, you need to use only substances designed to cover the surface of the car. In some cases, several stages of coloring are required. After body repair and painting, the surface is thoroughly washed.

The painted machine is polished. Sanding is carried out with soft abrasives only after the paint has completely dried.

An article about local repair of a car body - preparation, procedure, subtleties of work. At the end of the article - a video about car body repair.

There are many reasons that lead to the repair of one or another part of the body. These can be mechanical damage to the paintwork by road debris, the consequences of minor accidents, chemical damage due to improper use of reagents and, finally, the manifestation of ordinary corrosion.

Of course, as a result of these damages, the car does not lose its technical characteristics, and therefore there is no reason to hand it over to scrap. Only the external aesthetics of the car suffers, and this problem is quite simple to solve. And if you repair everything with your own hands, then the economic benefits will be obvious.

Before local body repair, you need to wash the car well, and then diagnose for defects. This is necessary in order to know for sure which parts of the body need to be repaired, as well as what tools and equipment will be required for this.

The first step is to investigate the nature of the damage. For instance:

dents resulting from an accident, as well as from impacts of stones from under the wheels;
violation of the integrity of the paintwork: chips, cracks, scratches, etc.;
corrosion.

If this damage is mechanical and at the same time it is associated with a rupture of metal surfaces, or if it is a typical corrosion that has “eaten through” the metal through and through, then it would be reasonable to replace the damaged part with a new one. The same can be said about those damaged places in which the stiffeners suffered. But if the part cannot be replaced (the model is outdated), it can, in principle, be restored, but it will be much more difficult to do this than to replace it.

In addition, it is necessary to find those places that require correction of geometric deformation, and also note all minor damage that can be easily removed with a putty. As a result of such a defect analysis, you will know which body parts will require subsequent repair.

The most effective way to repair a damaged body part is to replace it. But if you nevertheless decided to repair the part, then in this case it will have to be dismantled. So let's start with dismantling.

Most of the body parts can be bolted or self-tapping, so it is not difficult to remove them, and without the use of welding. By the way, if the repaired part is installed already painted, it will be much better and easier.

However, there are parts that are assembled using spot welding. To dismantle them, use a special chisel and hammer. With these tools, a weld point is cut between the parts at the attachment point.

It is better to install the repaired part using special mastic, as a result of which the elements will connect to each other much more tightly and tightly. This will create additional waterproofing. It is advisable to do this with any method of connection, but if you use welding, you must keep the welding points clean.

No local body repair can do without putty. The fact is that, having repaired the damaged body parts, in any case you will have to go to the final cosmetics.

The first step is to close the deepest irregularities, the depth of which exceeds 1 mm. To do this, use a coarse filler. At the same time, do not forget that among the parts that make up the body there are parts that are subject to vibration and can deform from this.

When processing such parts, use a putty containing an aluminum filler. Fiberglass putty can be used for the rest of the parts.

To begin with, the places where you plan to apply the putty will have to be matted. This can be done with a medium-grit emery cloth for better adhesion to the surface.

The next stage is directly puttying. And this process should take no more than 20 minutes. In any case, most putties have this setting time. Therefore, in order to be in time, proceed as follows:

Dilute the filler according to the manufacturer's instructions. After that, mix the solution thoroughly enough so that the composition excludes air bubbles, has a measured color and the same consistency.

Start applying the solution to the surface with a spatula. At the same time, be extremely careful not to overestimate the required layer thickness. Therefore, it is better to apply thin layers in several steps to achieve the desired level. And if the surplus does appear, they must be removed immediately.

Allow the putty to harden.

Note: of course, it is impossible to immediately apply the putty so that later this surface does not require mechanical processing. Therefore, it will be very good if you come to a result that is as close to ideal as possible.

As already mentioned, mechanical processing of the putty surface in any case cannot be avoided. Therefore, wait until the composition has completely solidified, and then proceed to processing.

To do this, stock up on emery cloth and a wooden block. For a start, you can use a medium-grained skin, and try to pick up a block that is not very large, but fairly even.

The method of such processing is quite simple: wrap the block in "sandpaper" and begin to process the surface to be repaired with it. It is due to the even block that you can identify where it is necessary to remove excess putty, and where it needs to be added.

You can use an orbital sander besides the sandpaper-wrapped block, but it takes care and a lot of experience to use it. And if there is no such experience, then it is better to grind by hand, as described above - you will make fewer mistakes.

Despite the fact that this procedure is quite simple, rare specialists manage to do everything the first time. Therefore, after the first treatment, check the result and, if necessary, repeat it all over again. Your ultimate goal is to keep the surface level and free of pits, bumps, or seams.

So, you have done the "blackest" work, the repaired surface already has a favorable appearance, and now there is little to do - to eliminate small defects. The problem is that sometimes it is even impossible to notice them with the naked eye, but after repair they will definitely show themselves.

And here you will need another, fine-grained putty, which is also called finishing.You apply it in the thinnest layer to those places that require it: scuffs, scratches, an excessive layer of coarse-grain putty.

The condition is the same as with the use of a coarse-grained putty - you need to have time to apply the composition before its initial hardening. After this comes the stage of mechanical finishing, and fine-grained sandpaper is already used here, which is popularly called zero.

This work should also be done manually if there is no experience in using special tools. The necessary result of this procedure is the complete absence of irregularities, both visible and invisible, and tangibly tangible.

In this final step, sometimes it is possible to apply the putty in several layers, but in most cases one is enough.

Once you have done all this, the repair can be considered complete. All that remains is to paint the repaired areas and your car will look like new.

Video about car body repair:

Video (click to play).