Do-it-yourself goats for repair

Any repair and construction work must be carried out at a height. In a figurative sense, this is the default, but it also happens that you have to literally rise above your capabilities. Physically. To the height. And the first thing the hand reaches for is the stepladder. Everything would be fine, only a stepladder so restricts freedom of action that not every work becomes possible. But building scaffolding, or goats, is a completely different matter. On them and with an assistant, you can fit and attach the necessary equipment or material that should be at hand. The gantry industry is not yet at a sufficient level of development, so you have to tinker the stage yourself.

The etymology of the term goats is not reliably known, however, some assumptions can be made. The stand, which allows carrying out construction work at a low height, was not called a horse. And this thing has very little in common with the coachman's goats, so let's leave this etymological study for specialists in the field of artiodactyls and philologists. We are also interested in how to make construction goats with our own hands. Or scaffolding, if someone's ear cuts the accent on the first syllable.

Construction trestles are a practical and multifunctional solution that allows you not only to be at a certain height, but also to have freedom of movement at the level specified by the height of the trestle supports. And here the goats are out of competition. According to the materials of manufacture, the goats can be:

• wooden construction trestles;
• metal construction trestles;
• combined goats.

Consider the wooden option, since it is the least expensive in terms of both materials and time.

If you wish, you can arrange a stage for at least the entire length of the wall, if the situation requires it, take a bucket, a painting tool, any materials and even an assistant up to a height. Thus, there is no need to constantly carry the stand and the tool, as is the case with a stepladder.

But that's not all. A couple of goats will allow you to arrange a small portable workbench in the workshop, supplying it with the simplest vice or any other fixing equipment. It can be a full-fledged portable table for assembling or repairing, cutting or cutting, after all, it doesn't cost anything to turn a couple of trestles into a light garden or picnic table. What are we waiting for? Let's design goats.

One of the most, in our opinion, practical solutions is folding construction trestles. The fact is that practical people always prefer to have everything they need at hand. And non-separable goats take up a lot of space and sooner or later simply get underfoot when no construction or repair is planned. Therefore, such an option, collapsible, will have to be used by all practical owners of country houses or country cottages. Actually, from several photos it is not difficult to guess what kind of design these four-legged assistants have.

It remains only to decide on the linear dimensions of the structure. And the main size is the height of the legs. It was experimentally found that the optimal height of the assembled structure will be the growth of the master who will perform the work, minus 10-12 cm. The number of struts for rigidity can also be arbitrary, like the section of the timber from which the frame will be made.

The upper ends of the frames are connected with door canopies, and in order for the legs to be fixed, a limiter must be provided.It may be such a design as that citizen in blue unaesthetic jeans came up with, but the easiest way is not to complicate life, but to take two pieces of rafter tape and fix it on the lower struts but such a distance so that the goats are stable.

Now a little about technology. To fix the structural elements together, you can, of course, use the old-fashioned technology of knocking down with nails and bending them from the opposite side. Only this is absolutely not practical and not as reliable as assembling construction goats with your own hands on self-tapping screws using special self-tapping screws for wood and a screwdriver.

And in order, if necessary, to disassemble the awkward structure of the scaffold at the end of the work, you will have to swing with a hammer and crowbar to your heart's content. Although the design may be more original than the usual non-collapsible construction goats.

Actually, for the sake of which we assemble construction goats with our own hands - the playground. Depending on the nature of the work performed, the size of the site is also selected individually. The weight that it must withstand should be no less than the weight of a person plus the load from the tool and materials. In a word, 150-170 kg will be quite enough for any construction and repair work. The overall dimensions of the platform should be such that it fits into the doorways, and this is no more than 70 cm, and its length should not exceed one and a half meters, otherwise it will be inconvenient to maneuver.

Consequently, for the manufacture of two goats, a platform and, possibly, a wall step-ladder, no more than 12-15 meters of edged board will be needed, and this is quite a bit in order to guarantee a convenient eight-legged assistant for any repair and construction.

Hello, reader of a website about DIY repairs

In this article, I will tell you and show in detail in photographs how to make reliable wooden scaffolds (or, as they are also called, kOzly) with your own hands. It took us 100 minutes to assemble them. Their height is 1100mm (from the top platform to the floor). The scaffolds are designed for an apartment ceiling height of 3 meters.

If you are tall, just cut the legs to the desired height, if low, when manufacturing, cut the legs to the appropriate length.

First, we will consider the building materials and tools that you will need to make building wooden scaffolds.

1. 5 boards (100X30mm) 1470mm - upper platform;
2. 3 boards (100X30mm) 500mm - crossbars for the cover;
3. 2 boards (100X30mm) 1480mm - shelf;
4. 4 boards (100X30mm) 1150mm - legs;
5. 2 boards (100X30mm) 1700mm - large oblique crossbars;
6. 2 boards (100X30mm) 700mm - small oblique crossbars;
7. 2 boards (100X30mm) 500mm - upper steps;
8. 2 boards (100X30mm) 570mm - lower steps;
9. 2 boards (100X30mm) 100mm - pads;
10. 2 boards (50X30mm) 1580mm - large straight crossbars.

1. 32 self-tapping screws 4X50 yellow;
2. 71 self-tapping screw 5X70 yellow.

A carpenter's pencil is necessary for marking cutting lines on boards.

We use a construction tape to measure the lengths of boards before cutting.

The jigsaw can be electric or battery. Use to cross and slit goat planks.

A hacksaw for wood is used to cut boards, in the absence of a jigsaw. This will slow down the speed of work and increase the load on the body, but this is a solution when there is no jigsaw.

Hammer

to be needed for knocking boards.

We use a screwdriver to fasten the boards with self-tapping screws. Choose a bit especially for yellow screws.

1. Cut 5 planks on the upper platform of the scaffold to 1470mm.

2. Cut 2 planks to make the shelf under the top deck. The length of the boards is 1480mm. They are 10 mm longer than the top platform, so that the legs attached later go slightly at an angle.

3. Cut 3 transverse boards of 500mm.

4. Attach the top deck boards to the crossbars. To do this, place two extreme cross-pieces (500mm) on the edge, lay five boards of the upper platform on them.

Align the boards around the edges.

Screw the boards into the ribs of the crossbars at the edges.Then find the middle of the top of the scaffold and twist down the center. (Use self-tapping screws 5X70mm).

Please note that it is better to fasten the edges of the boards of the upper platform with two self-tapping screws, and the center with one.

5. Attach two shelves from the bottom (self-tapping screws 5X70mm). In the future, it will be very convenient to put various tools on them so that it does not get tangled under your feet when working.

6. Cut off 4 legs for the 1150mm scaffold.

7. Screw the legs of the scaffold into the brace. The distance between the outer edges of the legs near the upper platform should be 500mm, and at the base 600mm (self-tapping screws 5X70mm).

8. Turn the platform over and cut off the ends of the goats' legs sticking out above the top platform as shown in the illustration (three cut, one sticking out).

9. Screw the slanting cross-pieces (1700mm) crosswise from the outside (self-tapping screws 5X70mm). Cut off the protruding ends.

10. Screw the oblique cross-pieces (700mm) short crosswise from the inside (self-tapping screw 4X50mm).

Then screw the step (500mm) on two short sides at a distance of 360mm from the top edge of the cover to the top edge of the step (self-tapping screw 4X50mm).

After that, screw two grandmothers (100mm) for the second step on the short sides at a distance of 720mm from the upper edge (self-tapping screw 4X50mm) and screw the second step (570mm) onto them (self-tapping screw 5X70mm).

11. Screw two straight cross-pieces on the large sides (1580mm) (self-tapping screw 4X50mm).

After that, trim your legs so they are the same length.

12. And the last step - sand the saw cut with sandpaper.

Your DIY construction wooden scaffolds (goats) are ready to go! It took only 100 minutes to make them.

Almost every repair and construction work is not complete without performing any operations at height. The height of the average person does not allow reaching the ceiling. Therefore, you have to use various devices. A stepladder or even an ordinary stool is suitable for performing spot work. But when work needs to be done on a large area, while moving, then they will not be enough. Then construction goats come to the rescue.

If earlier the means of paving were made only by hand, today they can be bought ready-made in the store. Shopping trolleys are usually made of aluminum, making them both lightweight and durable. You can find both folding trestles and monolithic structures. But all these goats have one huge drawback - they are quite expensive. That is why the topic of making construction goats with your own hands always remains relevant.

As we have already noted, construction goats or scaffolds are of two types:

1. 1. Foldable. Their advantage is high mobility, compactness during storage after the end of work. But such scrubbers should be handled with extreme caution. Before performing work on them, you need to make sure that they are very stable.
2. 2. Non-folding. They are more reliable, since they are finished as a single structure.

It is quite difficult and very costly to make aluminum goats on your own. And in terms of the cost of materials, a homemade design will turn out to be even more expensive than from a store. Wood is the most practical and cheapest material.

In order to assemble wooden scaffolds, you will need the following materials:

• drawing;
• roulette;
• hacksaw or jigsaw;
• carpentry corner;
• simple pencil;
• screwdriver;
• self-tapping screws;
• boards;
• bolts, washers and nuts (for collapsible goat).

You need to choose lumber dry and even, without cracks, chips and knots. If they do not correspond to such characteristics, then they are suitable only for firewood.

For a wooden goat with a height of 110 cm, you will need lumber of the following sizes:

• 1700x100x30 mm - 2 pcs.;
• 1500x100x30 mm - 7 pcs.;
• 1500x50x30 mm - 2 pcs.;
• 1100x100x30 mm - 4 pcs.;
• 700x100x30 mm - 2 pcs.;
• 500x100x30 mm - 7 pcs.

• 4x50 - at least 32 pieces;
• 4x80 - at least 8 pieces.

Hardware needs to be prepared with a margin, since during assembly they can bend and become unusable.

Before starting work, prepare all the boards according to the list above. This can be done either independently or ordered for sawing. For yourself, it is advisable to draw up a drawing in order to have an idea of ​​the object being created.

To make the goats reliable and comfortable, you need to follow the following manufacturing scheme:

So, the construction goats are ready. Since work, even at low heights, is dangerous, the manufactured structure must be tested. To do this, you need to place a load on top of that which will affect the structure during operation. Any heavy object will do. If the goats have passed the test, then you can safely use them.

This is the simplest construction of a construction trestle. If necessary, you can also make your own and more complex scaffolding. In this case, you cannot do without a drawing. Here is one such example:

The set of tools and consumables for the manufacture of such a structure is identical, the difference is only in their quantity. It is worth noting that at least two of these goats are required. It all depends on the area of ​​the working surface. It should be remembered that the material for the surface must be chosen as thick as possible so that it can withstand people working on it.

Making construction goats is not a difficult job. All you need is tools and a few materials. The advantage of self-assembling the goat is that they can be made as large as needed.

When carrying out any work related to the repair or maintenance of the house, it is required to rise to a certain height. If you can screw in a light bulb using a chair, and cover up a small crack with a stepladder, then extensive work requires more mobility.

To move at a height, construction goats are created, otherwise called scaffolds. There are ready-made structures in hardware stores, but prices go for thousands of rubles. It is easier to make them yourself, and it costs several times cheaper.

Before we start making construction goats with our own hands, we select materials for manufacturing. There are three main materials from which goats are made:

Since metal ones are difficult to create and quite expensive in terms of materials, consider wooden goats.

After choosing the material, it is worth understanding the conditions for their use. If it is a stationary or rarely moved scaffold, then a disposable scaffold should be created. If you plan to move the goats often, choose folding goats.

Before starting carpentry work, we create a drawing and calculate the required height. The standard for comfortable work of an adult man is height 80-90 cm.

For the finished product height 85 cm, need legs length 95 cm.

The length must be chosen such that when a board is placed on top for a construction site, the beam protrudes at least 5-7 cm on each side, but it is better to take with a margin.

The design is extremely simple, in the open state it resembles a letter "A", and has the ability to be used both at a low height and with the help of two trestles at full height.

After creating the drawing, you need to decide how long the platform will be, and how many goats will have to be made for it. Goats are always created from two or more - if the overlaid board is long and can break in the middle.

The advantage over a conventional platform, collapsible goats in reusability and the ability to quickly get out of storage and use. In conventional scaffolding, only nail-fastened planks are used.

After the end of the work, it is difficult to leave them for storage unassembled. So that such scaffolds do not take up much space, they have to be dismantled, which is difficult if they are made with high quality.

Collapsible trestles do not take up much space, it is possible to transport and use for various needs, except for direct use. To create the goats, you need two supports.

To make one support you will need:

four boards for legs - 0.95 m;

board 0.9 m for the top;

three rungs 0.85, 0.77, 0.7 m each.

The assembly of the goats is carried out in accordance with the recommended instructions.

Make markings on the legs, cut off the excess tree on both sides, at an angle of 80 0 ... The cuts must be parallel.

Use the finished leg as an example and do the rest.

Check that the ends of the top board, which will hold the platform, are at a 90 ° angle.

On the boards of future spacers, measure the angle at one end 80 0 and from the other to 100 0 ... Cut off.

The blanks are ready, now a place is cut for the top board. To do this, fold the two ready-made legs in such a position that they will take in the open, draw a corner at 90 0 , and cut off. All the others are cut along this leg.

The legs are connected like scissors, an axis of rotation is drilled into them, in which the bolts are not fully tightened, allowing the legs to open and close.

It remains only to make spacers between the finished legs, two on the wide side, and one on the narrow side. Then fasten the tensioning strap to the lower spacers.

One support of the future construction site is ready, the second is being assembled according to the same scheme.

Collapsible goats are an easy and inexpensive way to create a construction site that is durable, mobile, and capable of supporting the weight of a grown man, as well as building materials.

Carpenter's boxes are an indispensable tool in the arsenal of any craftsman or person who decides to build a house on their own. Sawing boards, putting in long material, putting on a miter saw, assembling a universal workbench or a sawing table - an eight-legged assistant will handle all these tasks.

Of course, in specialized hardware stores, you can choose a model for every taste, but the price for such buckets bites. It is not surprising that many users of our portal prefer their own developments to industrial products. Moreover, any person can assemble joinery goats.

1. Basic principles of designing homemade joinery

I have not been involved in carpentry for many years. Somehow I needed goats. At first I wanted to assemble them from what was at hand, but after wandering around the Internet, I saw a video of one American who came up with a convenient folding goat design, which I decided to repeat.

In this design, our user was attracted by the following:

1. The folding trestle structure makes it easy to transport and store.
2. Versatility. The trestles can be adapted for a wide variety of jobs.

The following photos clearly demonstrate the compactness and convenience of such a goat.

The trestles do not take up much space, they can be transported in the trunk of the car, and at the end of the work, they can be hung on the wall of the garage or workshop.

After studying the video and grasping the essence of the idea, Dima009 decided to repeat the design and share his experience with our readers. The work began with the development of drawings for the goat.

I don't like to do something by eye. Therefore, in addition to drawing in a specialized program, I had to recall the school trigonometry course for calculating the angles and lengths of the sides.

Starting point for determining the size of the goat was the calculation of their height. This point should be given special attention, because growth is different for everyone. Someone will find it convenient to work with goats 80 cm high, someone will need to make goats 90 cm high.

The universal height of a goat for a person with a height of 175-180 cm is considered to be 80-85 cm, but in order not to guess, you can go and measure the height of the workbench or table at which you usually saw or plan boards before starting work on the manufacture of the goat. There is only one criterion - it is convenient to work or not. This will give a rough guide to the optimal - ergonomic height.

Dima009 chose a height of 85 cm.

Next, he estimated the angle of inclination of the legs to the plane of the floor. As seen in the drawing, the angles are 65 ° and 80 °.

Having determined the main dimensions, we calculate the lengths of all other parts of the goat. For clarity, we present a list Dimy009:

• Four legs, each 95 cm long.
• The top support bar requires a 90 cm board.
• It also requires 3 spacers in lengths of 85, 77 and 70 cm.

I also needed wood screws and bolts with nuts to connect the folding legs.

Having knocked out the "total", for the manufacture of 2 goats you will need:

For purchase Dima009 went to the nearest hardware store, where it turned out that it was almost impossible to buy even boards. After going over more than 100 pieces, the user hardly selected 5 pieces. boards of the size he needs. The total purchase price, including fasteners, was just over RUB 1,200.

Looking ahead, let's say that the topic caused a wide response among our users, and they actively participated in the discussion of the design features of homemade goats. In particular, there were concerns that the goats could collapse under heavy load. To dispel all doubts Dimа009 at the end of the work, the goat promised to carry out a crash test, loading them with a weight of three centners. What came of this, we will tell you a little later, but for now we will describe the key stages of building a goat.

2. Stages of making homemade joinery goat

Accurate planning of all stages of work and competent calculation is the key to success in any business. Homemade goats are assembled according to the principle of a constructor. First, we make all the necessary parts.

Based on the 3D model, I calculated a list of all parts with dimensions and only after that I started making the goat.

The process is broken down into a series of sequential steps:

1. Take a board 2 meters long (these will be the legs) and use a carpenter's protractor to make the markings.

2. Next, set the protractor at 65 ° and draw a line.

3. Turn the board over to the end and continue the line, drawing it at an angle of 80 °.

5. Using a tape measure, measure 95 cm on the board and make the same markings as on the first cut. As a result, both slices should be parallel to each other.

Having made one leg, we, using it as a template, mark the rest of the blanks along it.

This simplifies and speeds up all the work. After checking the correctness of the lines drawn, we cut off all unnecessary and get 4 ready-made legs.

Now we start making the upper support. To do this, cut off the end at exactly 90 degrees, measure 90 cm on the board and cut off the second end at a right angle.

We make the spacer in a similar way, only at an angle of 80 °. Mark the line, cut it off, then measure out 85 cm, take the protractor and draw a line at 100 degrees (this is the same angle as 80 °, but the opposite).

Wooden scaffolds, in other words, goats, for repairs.

If the theater begins with a hanger, then repairs in the premises always begin with the assembly of wooden scaffolds, or, as they are also colloquially called, goats. The reliability of the "goats" determines how safely and quickly you will carry out all the repair work of the apartment, as well as the speed of finishing work.

Additionally, of course, you will need a hanger, a wall ladder and a dining table.

In this article I will tell you and show in photographs how and with what tool you need to collect "goats" and how much material is needed for this.

When I use the word "goat" in the article, then you know that this is such a table for temporary use during repairs. It is made by builders and finishers to gain access to the top of the walls or to the ceiling for renovations. Therefore, I will not put quotes.

For the goat, the material is selected completely dry and light. And, of course, not very expensive. Remember that it will need to be moved frequently and carried from one place to another.

You also choose a tool. If you are going to twist the parts of the goat with self-tapping screws, then you need a screwdriver, and it is better for this to have a drill with a nozzle (a bat for wood screws).

If you connect the parts with nails, which, of course, I do not welcome when assembling goats, then you will need a hammer. You need a hacksaw or electric jigsaw to cut wood pieces. But I always use a hand-held circular saw.

Well, to mark our future parts of the goat, we need a pencil with a tape measure and a square.

From the material I always choose edged pine board and wood screws 55-60 mm.

To assemble two goats, we need 3-meter boards 150 mm wide and 30 mm thick.

The height of the goats is easy to determine: you need to take a tape measure and measure the distance from the ceiling to the head of a working person and subtract about 150-200 mm from this distance.

Well, that is, with an average ceiling height in apartments (2.6 m), the goat is made about 0.9 m high.

So, the first thing we need to do is the main sites for our future goats, on which all the work will be carried out. These areas should have enough space for the person who will be working on the goat. And you also need a place for a basin with a solution, which weighs about 40-50 kg. Accordingly, the platform must be strong and stable, our future goat must withstand a load of at least 150 kg.

In this matter, you always need to take into account the width of the main light doorways so that we can move our future goat to any room in our apartment. Since light doorways without installed doors are not less than 700 mm, the platform for the goats must be made 600 mm. The exception is the rooms of the bathrooms, where with the installed door with a door leaf width of 600 mm, the goat will not crawl through.

But it will not be needed there, since all types of work at a height - on plastering walls, laying tiles on the floor and on walls, installing the ceiling, as well as grouting tile joints, will already be completed, and after installing the door there will be nothing to do with the goats ... Repair and Construction Do-it-yourself ladder Read more

The main whole boards for the manufacture of boards for a couple of goats and a board for the table, we need only 16 meters, that is, 5 whole 3-meter boards and another 1 m of boards. We cut all other boards along the length with a circular saw into two halves.

For the main goat boards we use our first four full 3m boards. Find the middle of the board with a tape measure and cut them in half. So we will have the base ready: two main platforms for gantries 600 mm wide and 1500 mm long.

Then with a hand-held circular saw, we need to cut our remaining boards. From these narrow boards with a size of 30 mm x 75 mm and a length of 3000 mm, obtained in the process of sawing, we will make the rest of the parts (blanks) for our goat. This is done so that the goat is not so heavy and can be moved by one person.

We saw off 4 blanks of 600 mm from them and fasten our separate four boards into a shield.

We fasten the crossbeams that fasten the boards into a shield with self-tapping screws at a distance of 150 mm from the edge of the boards. We fasten each board with 4 self-tapping screws.

Now we need to make the following: 8 blanks 900 mm long for four pairs of legs of two trestles, 4 blanks of 650 mm for the lower steps and 4 blanks of 550 mm for the upper steps.

Let's start assembling our future legs. To do this, we turn the sewn over and, laying out our workpieces of legs and steps on it, we fasten them with self-tapping screws.

The upper part of the legs of the goat, which will be attached to the shield, need to be narrowed slightly inside the shield (on each side by 20-30 mm), and the lower ends of the legs, on the contrary, should be diluted by 30-40 mm more than the width of the shield, in order for our future goat to be steady on the floor, and then screw our steps onto them. Like this:

In order for all the legs of the goat to be the same, they must be assembled by stacking them on top of each other.

Further, when everything is ready, we proceed to the assembly of the goat itself: we fasten the goat's legs from the inside to the shield with self-tapping screws, turn our goat over and level it with two 1850 mm long jibs prepared by us, along the diagonal of the structure. So that they are screwed in relation to the sides of the goat "cross-to-cross". This is also done for the stability of the structure.

When tightening the jibs, we also part the bottom of the steps a little to the side and fix them with self-tapping screws.

We finish the lower strapping of the structure round with two crossbars of 1600 mm each, and the goat is ready. We twist the entire structure with self-tapping screws so that there are 2 of them per connection. Now you can safely, without fear, start working with him.

Additional information: if the repair is carried out in a room with clean floors, then, for example, pieces of linoleum must be screwed onto the bottom of the goat's legs so as not to scratch the floors.

(Do not forget about the obligatory lunch, otherwise, where will the strength come from for work?)

So, we still have to make a table out of the boards so that we can have a normal lunch or just drink tea at it.

And, of course, a clothes hanger. Here it is additionally necessary to purchase plastic wrap to cover clean clothes.

A set of "furniture" for the beginning of the repair is ready!

For rooms with a ceiling height of up to 3.5 meters or more, the goat is made separately. But it depends on the individuality of the apartment and the layout.

You also need to buy plastic wrap in order to cover everything that can become dusty and dirty during plastering and finishing work. Having installed the beacons, you can start the process of plastering the walls.

So, let's summarize. For a complete "set of furniture" to start repairs in a standard configuration (2 trestles, a table, a hanger, a wall step-ladder), we will need:

1. Board - 8 pieces: 30 mm х 150 mm, length 1500 mm

2. Board - 4 pieces: 30 mm x 75 mm, length 600 mm

3. Set of upper steps - 4 pcs .: 30 mm х 75 mm, length 550 mm

4. Set of lower steps - 4 pcs .: 30 mm x 75 mm, length 650 mm

5. A set of legs - 8 pieces: 30 mm x 75 mm, length 900 mm

6. Boards of the bottom strapping - 4 pieces: 30 mm x 75 mm long 1650 mm

7. Jibs - 4 pieces: 30 mm x 75 mm, length 1850 mm

Clothes hanger set:

1. Board - 5 pieces: 30 mm x 75 mm, length 1500 mm

Dining table set:

1. Board - 4 pieces: 30 mm x 150 mm 1000 mm long for table top

2. Legs - 4 pieces: 30 mm x 75 mm, length 600-700 mm

3. Boards - 6 pieces: 30 mm x 75 mm, 750 mm long

4. Boards - 2 pieces: 30 mm x 75 mm 1000 mm long for the lower leg strapping

5. Jibs - 2 pieces: 30 mm x 75 mm 1200 mm long

Wall ladder:

1. Boards - 2 pieces: 30 mm x 75 mm, length 1500 mm

2. Boards for steps and upper platform - 8 pcs. : 30 mm x 75 mm long 500 mm

That is, this is about 40 meters of edged board 30 mm x 150 mm x 3000 mm and 0.5 kg of self-tapping screws 55-60 mm. If you cut everything correctly, taking into account these dimensions, and work a little with a hand-held circular saw at the assembly site, then this amount is just enough for everything.

For information: in 1 m3 of boards measuring 30 mm x 150 mm x 3000 mm there will be 74.07 pieces, i.e. 222.21 m.

40 m of a board measuring 30 mm x 150 mm will be equal to 0.18 m3.

With a material cost of 5000 rubles / m3, a batch of material will cost 900 rubles. + 100 p. - self-tapping screws. Total: 1000 rubles.

Successful repairs to everyone! Congratulations to everyone on the start of the construction season!

Each person is special and everyone's experience is unique. Tell us about yours. Earn recognition and gratitude from our readers.

I took the construction of the construction goats out of my head, just estimating the height at which the roof of the future shed will be and how I can drag a 6-meter 100x100 mm timber there alone. It turned out that for comfortable work, given my height, the working platform of the construction goats should be at a level of about 2 meters.
In addition to the sizes, I really wanted to make them as light as possible, since I had to move them alone, so to work as a material I took a 50x50 mm bar and an inch board for the working platform.

Detailed photography during the construction of this simple structure was not carried out, but I think that the photos below will be quite enough for comprehension. As a result, we should get about the following goats.

So, everything is in order.
To begin with, the photo below shows the main dimensions of the goat structure. The drawing did not work out very well, but the main thing is that everything is visible.
I made these construction goats not according to the drawing, but locally, so the main dimensions are given for reference (approximate), they can of course be changed to your own.

First, I decided to make two pairs of "legs" - support. To do this, I sawed off four bars in size (2 meters each) and to make it easier to saw the grooves (not to be confused with the corners of the cuts) for the steps, I nailed the supports of the future goats to the floor logs of the barn. I nailed it, of course, I said this strongly, you just need to fix them with studs hammered not to the very cap, so that later, these nails can be easily pulled out.
I nailed the bars, observing the size between them: at the top (0.7 meters) and the size at the bottom (it turned out 1.02 meters), after which I marked and made cuts under the steps. I tried to make the size between the steps as large as possible (to reduce the number of steps and weight, respectively), but in order not to pull the knee to the chin when climbing there, I got a step of 30 cm.
The cuts were made shallow, about 1 cm. It is not necessary to greatly weaken the structure!
I chose the extra tree with a chisel. Of course, you don't have to do cuts, but I like it when everything looks aesthetically pleasing.

Try to make the size of the cut a couple of millimeters narrower than the width of the bar of the steps, so that they fit into the grooves tightly, do not dangle.

Further, right on the spot, I measured the distance for the steps, cut them off from the bar and screwed them on right there.

Be sure to round off the sharp corner of the bar, where the foot will be placed, with a plane. Below, in the photo you can see.

After all the steps are screwed on, remove this "pair of legs" from the retaining nails and from the inside of this ladder we put a fixing cross-brace for reliability. I just measured it in place, sawed off and screwed it on with self-tapping screws.

With the second paired support, everything is much simpler - I put two transverse steps and secured with the same fixing slope as the first pair of legs, only in the opposite direction.

From the outer sides of the "legs" at the top, where the platform will be attached, we make cuts under the side bars of the platform.

To do this, we need two bars (1.65 m) and inch boards sawn to the size of the platform width (70 cm each). We assemble the platform shield by fixing the boards to the bars with self-tapping screws.

Important! Leave a small gap of 5-10 mm between the boards of the shield so that there is a place for the rainwater to drain.

Now it remains to collect the three parts together. It will be more convenient to carry out these works "on the side".
We insert the upper ends of the "ladder legs" into the cuts of the platform bars and fix them for now with one self-tapping screw on each side, so that they can, as it were, "dangle" by changing the angle.

We carry out the same operation with the second pair of "legs".

Well, now you can put the still unfinished goats into working position. By spreading or bringing down the support bars, we change the degree of their inclination and achieve a stable position of the goats on the ground.

To consolidate the result, you should immediately install a spacer-stop between the support with steps and the second pair of “legs” so that they do not move apart.

Now you can tighten one more self-tapping screw at the points of attachment of the working platform to the supports, and also install another side brace-lock. Saw off the excess protruding ends of the brace bar.

Now you should put the construction goats on the side and cut the ends of the bars that rest on the ground at the right angle to the ground.
Also, you can attach a small railing, this is optional. It is somehow more comfortable for me to feel, though weak, but support!

That's it, the structure is ready and in the end it needs to be treated with fire protection.

The construction trestles made in this way have served me for the third year. With their direct participation, I built not only a barn, but also a house from a bar, which I will write about when I have free time. They can fully support the weight of two people who even swarm there.

So they passed the test as "excellent", although they turned out, of course, heavy - it is not easy to move them alone, even though the wood has dried up over time.
To move on loose earth or sand, you can put pieces of linoleum under your legs, as in the photo below.

If you have any questions or wishes, ask, below in the comment block, I will definitely answer.