Gearbox gaz 3302 DIY repair

• Like
• I do not like

kharchishin 14 Mar 2014

I bring to your attention a video tutorial on repairing a Gazelle gearbox.

The video tutorial tells in detail about the sequence of disassembling and assembling the box, and troubleshooting parts.

Cool video report! Well done!

• Like
• I do not like

Alexey malodov 14 Mar 2014

along the way when you disassembled the prom shaft box, you also need to legalize the free wheeling in the case, but you didn’t do that, and so it’s all good

• Like
• I do not like

gruzovoz2009 14 Mar 2014

I bring to your attention a video tutorial on repairing a Gazelle gearbox.
The video tutorial tells in detail about the sequence of disassembling and assembling the box, and troubleshooting parts.

• Like
• I do not like

shurhen80 14 Mar 2014

With a hammer on the primary, and then on the secondary. Wasn't a piece of copper or aluminum lying around.

And then also the shaft in a vice for the teeth

Synchronizer couplings are practically not described (in terms of what, how, where, components)

The bearing seats in the gearbox covers were not checked.

It is not shown how to adjust the intermediate shaft, and this is one of the most important components.

Not a word about oil seals and breather.

And for the rest: an excellent manual for repairing gearboxes

All of the above is not offensive to the author, but in order to see a more complete video with additions to the ones presented.

• Like
• I do not like

ivan4310 14 Mar 2014

I join! Just perfect! Such a manual for each unit and unit and no books are needed, and much of the books do not specify. That rare moment when I spent a little over an hour of my life watching videos on YouTube, and I don't regret it a bit

• Like
• I do not like

kharchishin 19 Mar 2014

Such would be a manual for each unit and unit, and no books are needed.

There is still an order for the repair of the rear axle, so there will be a new video tutorial soon

also thanks to shurhen80 for the comments. and in response, they post the third part of the video tutorial on repairing the checkpoint

• Like
• I do not like

rusgg 20 Mar 2014

13.43 fifth and back

• Like
• I do not like

rusgg 20 Mar 2014

but at 29.00 it is better to change the ring, otherwise it will break the groove on the shaft and fly out, after which the fifth will disappear and the speedometer will be silent.

it is then treated by replacing the shaft, which is on sale only like raw

• Like
• I do not like

rusgg 20 Mar 2014

bearings need to look for shells.

the shaft must be checked at least the fifth "treadmill" with a vernier caliper, it looks like it is squashed a lot (it sits down all forward) and breaks the gear, having worn out the teeth.

It is better to put the 5th gear washer “from below”, the bearing will then have a more uniform load, although this is a trifle.

the gears can be half, that is, the clutch engagement is separated from the gear and dangles.

wear of the cage of the clutch and gear engagement, which leads to the flying out of the gears.

Post has been editedusgg on: 20 March 2014 - 07:06

We remove the gearbox. We look at the article - "Removing and installing the checkpoint."

We wrap the filler and drain plugs in place.

Remove the power unit support.

Remove the reversing light switch.

We remove the speedometer drive.

We remove the clutch with the bearing and the foam rubber rings of the front cover.

Using a 12 key, unscrew the three bolts securing the bearing cover (the bolts are installed on the sealant).

Remove the cover with the gasket.

When installing it later, pay attention to the coincidence of the oil drainage channel in the cover and the holes in the crankcase.

Prying off with a screwdriver, remove the input shaft seal from the cover (when disassembling the gearbox, we replace all the cuffs, regardless of their condition).

Press in a new cuff with a mandrel or a head of a suitable diameter.

With the key "13" we unscrew and remove the bolt securing the bushing of the reverse gear axle to the front crankcase

Use a thin screwdriver to pry on and remove the retaining ring of the input shaft bearing

Turn the key "12" and remove the breather.

Using a 12 key, unscrew ten bolts connecting the front and rear crankcases (two bolts passing through the dowel sleeves are longer than the others).

11. Gently tapping with a hammer through the brass mandrel, undo the front and rear crankcases.

In this case, do not strike at the end of the input shaft, as the synchronizers will be damaged.

Disconnect the gearbox housings

Carefully, trying not to damage, remove the gasket

We take out the adjusting shims from the bore under the intermediate shaft bearing in the front crankcase (they may not be there). In this case, the axial clearance in the bearings is set only by the crankcase seal.

Noise in the gearbox is usually the result of bearing wear, chipping of the working surface of the gear teeth, and even their breakage. Disassembly of the gearbox and replacement of damaged parts is required.

Another reason even a new gearbox can make noise is the low oil level in the crankcase. This malfunction is a consequence of an oil leak from the gearbox.

A misalignment of the crankshaft and clutch housing is also possible. Using an indicator mounted on a stand attached to the rear end of the engine crankshaft (gearbox and clutch removed), while rotating the shaft, check the runout of the bore for the gearbox in the clutch housing (db 0.3 max) and the non-perpendicularity of the rear end clutch housing (d. b. 0.15 max).

How to remove the gearbox can be read in many printed and electronic publications, such as the repair and maintenance manual, so this operation will not be described in this article.

The next step is to thoroughly wash and rinse all parts of the gearbox, including the crankcase of the gearbox itself. Next, conduct a close inspection of all gearbox parts for damage and excessive wear.

• chipping of the working surface of the inner ring of the input shaft bearing (for clarity, the bearing is cut)

• slight wear of the secondary shaft roller bearing,
• output shaft bearing play,
• play in the bearing of the toe of the input shaft of the gearbox (pressed into the crankshaft),
• the absence of one of the contacts of the reverse sensor (broke off when dismantling the gearbox)

• input shaft bearing V6-50307АКШ1,
• secondary shaft roller bearing 20-1701182,
• bearing of the secondary shaft V6-50706USH1,
• primary toe bearing 402.1701031,
• reverse gear sensor LSH.609.016,
• gearbox shank oil seal (2 pcs.) 24-1701210-07,
• set of paronite gaskets.

I will not describe the assembly itself either, but I will point out its subtleties.

For ease of assembly, it is better to screw the rear part of the gearbox housing with self-tapping screws to the bar (see below in the photo). In this state, it is easier to insert the shafts, the crankcase does not fall anywhere and does not collapse.

For this, a similar block is taken as for the rear of the crankcase and a hole is drilled with an 18 mm feather drill, then the output shaft is inserted into the drilled hole (see photo). Now the work on pressing will be much easier, and will not spoil the shaft itself when it stops.

In the same block, next to the previously drilled hole, a new hole is drilled with a 16 mm nib drill. Then the input shaft is inserted into the drilled hole (see photo) and 14 rollers are installed. Without removing the shaft from the bar, we connect the primary and secondary shafts. Now this node is ready for further assembly.

The resulting device in the course of work.

We install the primary, secondary and intermediate shafts in the gearbox housing. If the plunger jumped out during the parsing of the checkpoint, then questions may arise: how did they still stand? Schematically it looks like this:

If all the parts located inside the crankcase are installed, then you can connect the two halves of the gearbox housing and tighten 10 bolts.

It remains to install the gear lever and check the engagement of each gear by scrolling the input shaft, controlling the speed and direction of rotation of the output shaft. We unscrew the block previously screwed to the rear half of the gearbox housing. Screw in the reverse sensor after installing the gearbox on the vehicle.

Lubricate with paste (included in the kit with the ZMZ clutch disc): the seat on the input shaft for the crankshaft bearing, the input shaft splines and the sliding surface of the release bearing of the gearbox front cover.

... installation of the reverse sensor in the gearbox.

The oil should still be poured through the hole for the gear lever, because in this case, it will partially lubricate the gearbox elements, and conduct additional control through the filler hole.

Hang up the rear wheels of the car (jack up and place the rear axle of the car on the stops), start the engine and slowly turn on the gears one by one (create an imitation of the car's movement). Performance test of each transmission for about one minute. WHAT WILL IT GIVE!? Firstly, since the gearbox parts have been thoroughly washed, then the initial operation of the gearbox will be dry, despite the fact that the oil is already filled in As a result, the operation of the primary and secondary shafts goes dry, although where the gears and bearings were lubricated during the assembly process), and when the vehicle is operating without load, it will painlessly distribute the oil inside the gearbox system, and secondly, in case of unforeseen circumstances (sudden exit failure of any element, breakdown, etc.) the operation of components and assemblies will be without load, which will avoid more serious breakdowns.

Repair of the Gazelle checkpoint is a difficult event for which you need to prepare in advance. The gearbox functions by transmitting torque to the wheels from the motor shaft. It should be understood that the slightest failure in the functioning of the transfer case can threaten your safety. If there is no service station nearby, you can repair the malfunction yourself. If you strictly follow the step-by-step instructions, even a novice motorist can carry out this procedure without any problems.

The Gazelle checkpoint is rightfully considered one of the most reliable and durable, but even they can become unusable due to high loads. In order for the replacement of the Gazelle gearbox to go without a hitch, you must know the materiel of the car, study the diagrams, be careful and patient, and also follow the safety rules and understand the principle of operation in the Gazelle 4x4 gearbox.

Repair of the Gazelle may be required in some cases:

• Difficulty shifting gears. Such a snag occurs due to the lack of fluid in the cylinder or due to the presence of air in the hydraulic actuator. In addition, you can check the locking bolts, which often require additional tightening, as well as the intermediate shaft of the gearbox. You can observe how the device jerks in neutral and the box howls. Another sign - in 4th gear, the fifth or second device makes a howl, a lot of noise;