In detail: checkpoint lifan do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Lifan Solano / 620. REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION OF TRANSMISSION
You will need: keys "for 8", for 10, "for 12", "for 13", "for 15", "for 17", "for 18", "for 22", a flat-blade screwdriver, pliers, mounting scapula.
1. Remove the battery (see "Removing and installing the battery", page 163).
7. Remove the ends of the cables from the shafts of the gear shift levers, remove them from the bracket seats on the gearbox
(see "Replacing the transmission control cables", page 107) and move the transmission control cables to the side.
14. . disconnect the harness holders and move the cover to the side.
15. Place the car on a lift.
16. Remove the engine crankcase protection
(see "Removing and installing the engine crankcase protection", page 54).
17. Remove the engine mudguards 18. Drain the transmission oil
(see "Checking the level, topping up and changing the oil in the gearbox", page 105) and screw in the drain plug.
19. Remove the front suspension cross member 20. Remove the front wheel drives
21. Disconnect the harness connector from the vehicle speed sensor.
22. Support the engine securely or support it with a lifting device.
23. Install a similar support under the gearbox.
24. Remove the left and rear suspension mounts of the power unit
All further operations are shown on the removed engine for clarity.
27.. and one rear transmission mounting bolt.
28. Carefully remove the transmission from the vehicle. WARNING
When removing the gearbox, do not rest the end of the input shaft against the diaphragm spring petals, so as not to deform them. 29. Install the transmission and all removed parts and assemblies in the reverse order to removal.
Video (click to play).
Before installing the gearbox, check with a special mandrel how the clutch disc is centered.
30. Fill the gearbox with oil (see, "Checking the level, topping up and changing the oil in the gearbox", p. 10S).
1. Place the gearbox on a stand to drain the oil, unscrew the drain plug from the gearbox housing and drain the oil.
2. Remove the clutch release bearing, release fork and release fork boot.
3. Unscrew the gear shift cover bolts and remove the shift mechanism and reversing light switch, then using a special tool, unscrew the locking screw of the reverse gear axle.
4. Unscrew the fastening bolts and remove the rear cover, as well as the bearing return disc spring.
5. Using a special wrench, unscrew the four bolts from the four holes of the output shaft rear bearing cover, then remove the gear shift cover.
6. Remove the bolts connecting the gearbox and clutch housings, then remove the gearbox housing.
7. Unscrew the reverse gear rocker arm bracket bolts, then remove the bracket with the rocker arm and the parasitic reverse gear axle.
8. Using a special tool, gently tapping, remove the differential, as well as the input and output shafts as an assembly. First, remove the differential assembly, shift forks, output and input shaft assemblies, and then disassemble each unit separately.
9. Using a magnetized rod, remove the intermediate retainer.
10. Remove the shift fork retaining ring as shown in the illustration.
The modern car market is developing rapidly and the Lifan Solano car, which appeared not so long ago in the CIS countries, managed to win the trust of many drivers.This is due to the low cost, ease of operation and maintenance of the car, as well as its safety and attractive appearance.
Of course, this is not an elite vehicle and it is designed for "ordinary" people, so that the identification and elimination of all problems, the production of repair work, the drivers, as a rule, carry out with their own hands.
Problems with the clutch can arise both in outbound cars that have covered more than one thousand kilometers, and in almost brand new cars. To determine what exactly has broken or is not functioning correctly, one should know the "symptoms" of a faulty clutch. By the way, not always, if the car's gears do not turn on, it is it that is to blame, read more in the material: Why the gears on Lifan Solano are not turned on.
This is what the new clutch disc looks like
The main reasons for the breakdown of structural elements of the clutch are:
Inaccurate behavior of the driver when operating the car - pressing the clutch while the vehicle is moving, etc.
Of course, you may end up with an "unsuccessful" car with a deliberately low-quality part, non-original constituent elements, etc.
All things have their own service life and parts can simply wear out, in particular this applies to the driven disk - with careful driving, it becomes unusable after 100 thousand kilometers, but for fans of "high speeds" it is even faster.
Due to wear or damage to the integrity of the gearbox or engine oil seals, oiling of the fractional lining at the driven disk can occur.
Signs of a clutch problem are likely to occur:
When an incomplete shutdown is observed, they say "the car is driving", while difficulties arise at the time of gear shifting with the engine running, accompanied by crackling, hum, noise. This may indicate possible damage to the lining of the driven disk, contamination or depressurization of the hydraulic drive, etc.
When the clutch "slips", that is, poor vehicle dynamics is observed, fuel consumption sharply increases, the engine overheats, and so on. This "behavior" is typical for oiling, damage to the integrity or wear of the driven disk, breakage of the working cylinder, etc.
I must say right away that this is a difficult and time-consuming process, so if there is a need for replacement, all the necessary tools should be prepared in advance - so that the work is quick and productive, everything should be “at hand”.
To begin with, you need to remove the protection of the engine compartment (engine crankcase) from below, and by opening the drain cover with a wrench, drain all the oil. If it will be used again later, then it must be placed in a clean container (you can put it in a 2.5–3 liter jar, since the total amount of oil is 2.1 liters).
As mentioned earlier, replacement is a lengthy process, and there is not a minute to waste. So, while the oil is being drained, you can proceed to other manipulations - removing the battery and its platform. In this case, the terminals are disconnected from the battery in the following order: "minus", then "plus".
After - the air filter is removed - its top cover is removed along with the pipe up to the throttle valve. To do this, loosen the clamp on the throttle unit branch pipe and quickly disconnect the branch pipe, then unscrew the 3 bolts on which the lower part of the air filter is fixed. Note: to prevent dirt and dust from getting into the throttle assembly, cover it with a clean piece of cloth.
Now you need to disconnect the two hoses connected to the absorber and remove the absorber from the bracket (with a sharp upward movement).
The cables are separated from the gearbox and moved to the side, the same is done with the working cylinder.
Disconnect all existing crankshaft position, speed and reverse sensor connectors.
First of all, the front wheels are removed, and the suspension is partially disassembled (to disconnect the wires from the gearbox).Now it is possible to disconnect both - the right and left hubs. The starter located under the exhaust manifold is removed or moved to the side. Note: for such manipulations, an assistant should be invited.
Now you can disconnect the gearbox and only when it is completely removed, you can observe the clutch installed on the flywheel.
The clutch basket, fixed with 8 bolts, is unscrewed from the flywheel (it must be thoroughly cleaned of possible dirt). Next, a new basket with a clutch disc is installed and screwed loosely, the disc is carefully centered, and after that all 8 bolts can be tightened tightly.
This is how one part of the gearbox looks when this part of the box has already been removed.
This is how the gearbox looks like in the place where the clutch kit is installed
It looks like an old clutch release with a mileage of 60,000 km on Solano
After replacing the clutch, it may need adjustment. Read more about the adjustment here.
W21200H - clutch kit Krafttech
According to one of our users, all clutch parts fit Solano from Breez.
Repair of the transmission (checkpoint) Lifan X60 can be major or partial. Repair of the box (manual transmission) Lifan X60 must be done only after initial diagnostics in a car service. Very often, a third-party opinion that the box needs to be repaired turns out to be erroneous. It can also be caused by the clutch, flywheel, and gear selector.
We offer two options for repairing a transmission (manual transmission):
Partial (local) repair of the Lifan X60 gearbox - we remove the box, disassemble it, wash and defect. Troubleshooting a box is determining the cause of its failure, indicating a specific malfunction. A list of spare parts for this malfunction is also provided. After agreement, we make repairs to eliminate the specific malfunction that the client has contacted. We do not touch the rest of the components and spare parts in the gearbox.
Overhaul of the Lifan X60 checkpoint - as well as with partial repairs, the box is removed and completely disassembled, washed and defective. In this case, we are not looking for a specific cause of the breakdown, but we are doing a complete defect diagnosis. All units and spare parts with increased wear, all bearings, oil seals and gaskets are determined and changed.
The box on the Solano was named LF481Q3, and the engine on the Solano was named in the same way. The transmission is 5-speed (5 gears forward and 1 reverse), has a differential. The forward gears have synchronizers, but the reverse gear does not have a synchronizer. Therefore, sometimes there may be noise when engaging in reverse.
The synchronizer serves to equalize the speed of the shaft and gear, thanks to which the gears shift smoothly and the service life of all mechanisms is significantly increased.
Among the shortcomings, it can be noted: fuzzy engagement of the first or reverse gear on some cars, lack of protection against accidental engagement of reverse gear. I rarely encountered noise in the box.
Now a little about oil. GL5 Gear Oils contain special additives that create a strong film on the metal surface. Thus, the GL5 resists loads well, reduces friction and the gears in the gearbox pass more.
But these same additives will not allow synchronizers to work normally, because their work is precisely based on the frictional force. Therefore, the use of GL5 oils can lead to earlier wear of the synchronizers.
On the other hand, the GL4 will keep the synchronizers longer, but will care much less about gear wear. Well, in general, no one knows in advance where it will fall, so do not bother too much with the choice of oil, the box is not eternal ...
We will consider disassembling the gearbox, I think that there should be no problems with removing the gearbox.
To remove the box, you need to remove the front wheels, the subframe and the drive shafts of the front wheels. Jack up the box, unscrew the bolts and remove it.
one . Remove the release bearing and clutch fork
2 Remove the reverse switch, retainer and remove the bolts securing the gear selection mechanism.
Set the lever to the neutral position and carefully separate the mechanism housing from the gearbox housing with a rubber hammer and pull it up.
3 Unscrew and remove the speed sensor, unscrew the gearbox housing bolts
4 Remove the bolt securing the idler reverse gear axle and the gearbox housing bolts. Separate the transmission housing from the clutch housing and remove it.
5 Pull up the idler reverse gear shaft and remove the gear itself. Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the reverse gear lever.
6 Separate from the clutch housing as a single unit: input shaft assembly, output shaft assembly, shift rods with forks. If necessary, to facilitate the process of separating the shafts from the crankcase, knock with a plastic hammer (or through a wooden spacer) on the end of the input shaft from the inside of the clutch housing (on the side of the release bearing guide sleeve).
7 Remove the differential assembly with the final drive gear from the clutch housing.
Video: dynamics of acceleration lifan solano
I will then share a step-by-step strategy for replacing brake pads with my own hands, who may come in handy:
The first bell, which informs that the car requires replacement of brake pads, is a creak.
So, getting started, first of all, you need to jack up the wheel and remove it. As soon as you remove the caliper, pay attention to the condition of the boots. In the event that no defects are observed, then there is no point in replacing them, although they are cheap. Then release the brake rails from the caliper. When you are able to do this, sand them with sandpaper to get rid of the rust, and wipe the dirt off with a rag. Next, grease them and put them back, while putting on the anthers.
It often happens that the rails simply get stuck in the bracket, the main reason for this is dirt and moisture. In this case, you have to work a little. The best option is to use a gas burner cylinder. Warm up the guides well and use a wrench to unscrew them, just do it carefully so that the guide head does not suffer.
Before installing new brake pads, it is necessary to carefully clean the places where they are located. To do this, take an ordinary screwdriver. After that, it is necessary to compress the caliper cylinder with a special device. If you don't have one, then take a simple hammer. Place it on the cylinder and push with great force. If the cylinder is twisted inward, the procedure will be a little more complicated. To do this, you will have to show a little imagination and use the tools at hand. Many people use a large screwdriver or pry bar.
Having overcome this rather difficult stage of work, you just have to place new pads in the bracket, put on the caliper and fix it. To make it easier to tighten the screws, you can drop a few drops on the threads of the bolts with special oil. Tighten the bolts firmly but carefully.
As a rule, replacing brake pads takes 30-60 minutes.
If the doors close behind badly:
[B] 1) option: [/ B]
“We unscrew the“ shackle ”of the lock from the body of the Solano and move it so that it is in the center of the lock. Then we tighten it a little and slam the door, carefully open it, tighten it and if it is better or move it further, we slam it again. etc. There is nothing terrible or difficult. "
[B] 2) option (simpler) [/ B]
Tap with a mallet-wooden hammer, without removing the rubber seal from the body, from the threshold to the top of the seat back, with normal force. The sealing gum on the doors themselves, it has been experimentally found that it does not affect the closing.
found the video “Do-it-yourself cleaning of Lifan Solano nozzles” maybe someone will come in handy
Do-it-yourself elimination of clutch slip on a Lifan Solano car
Clutch slip during hard acceleration in 3-5 gears
This malfunction occurs periodically on a car. Sometimes it manifests itself to a small extent, mainly when you need to quickly pick up speed to overtake. The tachometer climbs uphill, and the speed is in no hurry to follow it. There are several reasons for this malfunction:
1. Development on the box shaft on which the release bearing slides - in this case, the repair will be associated with the replacement of the shaft and release bearing.
2. Biting the piston of the clutch slave cylinder coupled with a tight return spring inside it. The clutch basket springs do not overpower through the release bearing and its tab to sink the slave cylinder rod, as a result of which the clutch is not engaged and slipping appears. This malfunction is treated by cleaning the cavity of the working cylinder and replacing the spring with a softer one. It is possible to replace the spring with a spring from the repair kit for the working brake cylinder of Taeta Koroly.
A few comments on this case: The clutch slave cylinder is too close to the clutch foot. As a result, the clutch foot practically rests on the rubber cover-corrugation of the working cylinder rod.
The cover is fully compressed between the cylinder body and the release foot, preventing the foot from fully moving and engaging the clutch. Moreover, the piston of the working cylinder is completely recessed and abuts against the fully compressed return spring. Our manipulations with replacing the spring and shortening the stem to some extent solve the problem, but in my opinion not completely, since the rubber cover of the stem still does not allow the release foot to move completely and therefore fully engage the clutch. Perhaps it makes sense to try to rearrange the slave cylinder a little further using a metal spacer plate screwed into place of the cylinder, and shift the cylinder by 5-10 mm. In my opinion, there is such an opportunity. Then there is no need to alter anything in the cylinder.
Chapter 3 Transmission (continued)
Rice. 3-37 slave cylinder of the driving axle. 1 - working cylinder 2-holder
Rice. 3-38 left horizontal clamp and ring. 1-holder 2-ring 3-boot
Rice. 3-39 dismantling / installing the right-hand bent clamp. 1-axis transmission drive 2 engine 3-horizon
(15) remove the transverse bent clamp between the left side of the engine and the transmission (Fig. 3-38).
(16) remove the boot from the socket-body (fig. 3-38).
(17) remove the transverse bent clamp between the right side of the engine and the transmission (Fig. 3-39).
(18) Remove the starter (fig. 3-40).
(19) Remove the 4 bolts connecting the clutch and drive plate, when tightening the bolts, you may have difficulty aligning the holes on the drive plate. When removing the bolt, label the drive plate and clutch assembly for easier alignment when reassembling.
(20) Use a screw jack and square timber to support the engine.
(21) Loosen the transmission drive axle studs, accessing this screw through the wheel housing from the driver's side
(22) Carefully place the engine and gearbox on the screw jack to obtain sufficient space for dismantling.
Fig. 3-41 bolts of fastening of the upper support of the driving axle of the transmission 1-support 2-bolts 3-holder
fig. 3-42 dismantling and installation of the transmission drive axle-1.6 L 1-modular clutch unit 2-clamp 3- transmission drive axle 4-clutch bolts (4) 4-clutch bolts (4)
(23) When removing the bolts from the transmission drive axle and the engine, a second person must secure the transmission drive axle (Fig. 3-42).
(24) Remove the transmission drive axle from the vehicle (Figure 3-42).
(25) when installing or replacing the transmission drive axle, disconnect the upper fixing part (fig. 3-43). fit the spare parts and tighten the bolts to 68 Nm
Inspection and repair of the inner parts of the drive axle of the T 350 transmission can only be carried out after the gearbox has been separated from the transmission socket
Warning: The drive axle of the transmission can only be serviced and repaired as a whole.Do not disassemble or try to assemble it separately. This could damage the transmission.
(1) Place the drive axle of the transmission on a workbench.
(2) Disconnect the clutch release bearing and the clutch release lever. Slide and align the fork and bearing in a straight line. Use both hands to grasp the lever to release it from its landing site. Apply pressure with constant force.
Warning: do not try to disconnect the lever with a screwdriver or punch, this may damage the lever or clamps.
(3) Remove the pin, remove the gear shift lever.
(4) Remove the drive axle housing bolts (Fig. 3-44).
(5) insert 2 screwdrivers between the housings as shown in fig. (fig. 3-45), divide into 2 parts
(6) Disconnect the housing flare from the box (Fig. 3-47).
rice. 3-43 upper lock and bracket for the drive axle of the transmission 1 retainer 2- the drive axle of the transmission
rice. 3-45 drive axle housing
rice. 3-46 Split of the hull. 1-screwdriver 2-half-body 3-hole for opening
rice. 3-47 dismantling the bell 1-bell 2-differential gears 3-gearbox
Figure 3-48 disassembly of the 1-Vx transmission unit. shaft 2-Vykh. shaft 3-differential 4-box
Rice. 3-49 intermediate shaft s / stroke
1-check point 2- intermediate shaft s / stroke
3- intermediate shaft bolts w / stroke
Rice. 3-50 dismantling the reverse intermediate shaft
1- reverse intermediate shaft
Rice. 3-51 Intermediate shaft and reverse gear oil seal 1-oil seal 2- reverse intermediate shaft
(7) Disconnect the roller bearing from the output shaft.
(8) Disconnect the differential gear assembly (Fig. 3-48).
(9) Disconnect the reverse gear intermediate shaft bolts (Fig. 3-49).
(10) Pull out the reverse intermediate shaft (Fig. 3-50).
(11) remove the intermediate shaft of the reverse gear (fig. 3-51).