Gearbox uaz 4-step DIY repair

In detail: checkpoint uaz 4-step DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The UAZ 469 car, produced by the Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant, specializes in the transportation of people and goods. The cross-country ability of this machine allows you to drive on any roads.

A gearbox is a car's gearbox. UAZ 469 has a mechanical 4-speed gearbox equipped with inertial synchronizers. They are designed to engage gears without noise or rumble. Synchronizers help align the speed of the mating teeth before engaging. The rotation speeds of the motor and the wheels do not match; a synchronizer is needed to align them. In addition, the gearbox allows the machine to move in reverse.

The gearbox of the UAZ 469 checkpoint consists of the following parts:

input shaft;
front cover;
special nut;
auxiliary fasteners;
auto-laying;
ball bearings;
output shaft drive bearing;
crankcase;
clutch for connecting III and IV gears;
gear wheel of III transfer;
gear wheel of 2nd gear;
clutch for connecting 1st and 2nd gears;
gear wheel of 1st gear;
secondary shaft;
fastening washer;
check point spacer ring;
mounting bolt;
washer for fastening;
intermediate shaft;
reverse gear axle;
reverse gear;
Cork;
block of gear wheels of the intermediate shaft drive and III gear;
lid.

UAZ box device

If you are interested in the scheme of the UAZ checkpoint, it is easy to find it in the photos and drawings posted on various sites on the Internet.

4 studs are screwed into the clutch housing, on which the gearbox is attached. The intermediate shaft drive has gears that are in stable meshing. Gears of 1st gear - with straight teeth, 2nd and 3rd - spiral. They are mounted on a drive shaft, supported by needle bearings. The drive shaft has 2 bearings. The role of the clutch when the second gear is engaged is played by the gear of the first. The inclusion of reverse gear and the first occurs due to the movement of the gears. Transmission bearings are ball bearings. To prevent movement along the axis, the gears are secured by rear bearings. The rear bearing of the countershaft is bolted to the shaft itself.

Video (click to play).

The changeover device has 3 forks fixed to the rods with locking screws and located in the side cover. The ball-shaped stopper of the neutral position and the included gears has a stem. Locksmiths located between the rods do not allow 2 gears to be connected at the same time. The support contains a lever that helps to move the forks. He himself is pressed by a spring to the supporting spherical surface. The boot fitted on the lever prevents water and dirt from entering the device. To prevent accidental engagement of the reverse gear (the driver can simply confuse it), this device contains a fuse - a plunger, which is equipped with a return spring and a ball.

The gearbox lubricator is aligned with the transfer case. The grease from the distributor passes into the UAZ gearbox through a double-row bearing (angular contact) and an existing drain device, after which it returns through the drain hole.

A manual gearbox is the most important transmission unit of the UAZ 469 car... At the UAZ 469 checkpoint, a responsible and fundamental task is to monitor the variability of the motor torque value and transfer from the engine to the drive wheels of the machine. The UAZ 469 manual transmission has a fairly long service life. This does not mean that the checkpoint does not need to be repaired.

Correct use of the car makes it possible to do without repairs for a long time, but if the operating conditions are not met, the UAZ gearbox assemblies wear out, which inevitably leads to repairs.

In what cases does the operation of the machine lead to wear of the parts of the box, as a result of which repair is required?

Car use in extreme modes.
Operation of UAZ 469 with a faulty clutch.
The use of low-quality oils for the drive axle.
Maintenance of the gearbox by a non-professional.

These are the main prerequisites that can cause urgent repair of the UAZ 469.

To repair the checkpoint, you need a large set of equipment.

Open-end wrenches in 2 copies (for 10, 12, 13, 14, 17, 19, 22). Using a 14 wrench, unscrew the rear shaft from the transfer case flange. If you misuse this key, you can create huge problems for yourself.
Socket wrenches.
Professional flat nut wrench.
Regular and Phillips screwdrivers.
Platypus for removing and putting on retaining rings.
Metal pin for knocking out individual parts.
To quickly loosen nuts and bolts, you need a small piece of iron pipe.
Quality core and chisel.
Mounting blade.
Heavy hammer.
A large number of cans for bolts and nuts to place parts consistently as you work.
Bearing puller.
A car owner who is attentive to his car can identify problems with the gearbox.

Back to the table of contents

If noises appear in the gearbox that were not previously heard, then at this stage it is necessary to diagnose the gearbox and, if necessary, repair. In case of repeated noise, it is advisable to pay attention to the bearings, possibly to replace them. If the noise occurs in a particular gear, then most likely the reason is worn gears.

Synchronizers can be damaged if the car has tight gear changes. The next reason may be a decrease in the oil level in the crankcase or its absence. Repair of the box requires high-quality preparation of parts, their grinding and boring. This is a complex process, not everyone will be able to do such work himself.

Before proceeding with the repair of the UAZ 469 gearbox, you need to study the relevant literature. Do not just look, but read and pay attention to what is said about the left-hand thread, the location of washers, stops and small details. To remember the chronological sequence of actions in the repair process, you can make a cheat sheet for yourself.

For car gaskets, it is advisable to purchase an imported sealant. It is of better quality, more reliable. For lubrication of rotating parts it is best to use "Litol" - this is the most affordable tool.

Repair of the gearbox can only be entrusted to a specialist of the highest qualifications who has a professional tool, who knows the device, the scheme of the UAZ 469 gearbox and is able to carry out repairs in the shortest possible time.

Yesterday there was such a situation: when the car was moving, there was a crackling and all transmissions stopped working. That is, when you turn on any gear and try to get under way, there is a crunch of gears, and the car does not move. Few people undertake to make these machines, and those who do it have a queue. I'll have to do it myself.

Now I will unscrew the cardan and remove the gearbox. I will try to repair it myself. Unscrewed the box mounting bolts: on one side 2 bolts; on the other side 2 bolts. Put down the pallet. Now I will try to shoot it. So she sagged. That's it, the box is removed. Now I will pull it out and examine it.

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I took off the box, now I will disconnect it from the distributor. And immediately that catches the eye - this backlash, the backlash of the input shaft. It still remains a mystery to me how I will put it in its place, but time will tell. I disconnected the box from the distributor, and the second thing that caught my eye was that this nut was unscrewed. And it looks like we have a left-hand thread.

He unscrewed the cover, unscrewed the flange mounting bolts. Now let's see what's inside.I don't see anything dramatic yet. Now I'll see, if anything, I'll tell you. Apparently, this was the problem. This block of gears, this shaft is all shaking, dangling. And here it squeezed out the lid that needs to be screwed on.

Apparently, the problem is in this bearing of the gear block, because the entire shaft sometimes does not mesh, because it dangles. And the synchronizer has practically no teeth. I have a friend, a specialist in VAZ nearby, I will now consult with him and continue the repair.

I consulted with a specialist, they said that both bearings of the intermediate shaft and the bearing of the input shaft are being replaced. They told the ground synchronizer not to touch it, to leave it that way, because there are no rusks or balls. It will work fine. It is also necessary to change the oil sump washer.

I went to the store and bought bearings: 50 208 with a groove on the input shaft; 50 306 to the intermediate shaft. I still need a 305th open bearing without a groove, but there was no open one, I bought a closed one. Then I will remove these rubber things - it will be open. Also, sealant, gaskets for the box, oil squeegees and bolts for the universal joint.

Now we will disassemble the box. To remove the intermediate shaft, these gears must be removed. To do this, I unscrewed this bolt. It must be unscrewed. Now I will knock out the axle. All knocked out.

Now we will knock out the intermediate shaft itself. To do this, we need to unscrew this nut. And you will have to hit the bearing from the other side so that it falls out here. Now let's see how it goes. It was not possible to unscrew this cover, because it was squeezed out, and it did not go along the thread. I just broke it. I don’t know if there are such on sale or not, it is aluminum. Look what happened to the bearing there - practically nothing remained of it.

Now we need to press out the input shaft. Here on the gear there is a place where there are no teeth. It must be placed so that it does not interfere with the exit, so that the teeth do not cling to this gear. We twist, set, now we will press out. I found such an iron screwdriver, I'll put it in now. This input shaft came out very easily.

Let's go further. We pulled out the primary shaft, now we proceed to the secondary shaft. It is necessary to unscrew these bolts, remove this lock washer, and hit the bearing there so that the bearing comes out. I have already unscrewed these plates, which held the bearing in the groove. Now I remove the lock washer, then remove the lock washer. Now you can hit the bearing to make it come out. Now I will press out the bearing with hammer blows. The bearing needs to be pulled out of here, I'll try now. After removing the bearing and removing (inaudible 09:35) washers, I pull out the output shaft.

To remove the intermediate shaft, you need to unscrew this nut and drive it in there. Now let's try how it will be. I unscrewed the countershaft nut, there was a retainer from the bearing, and now we will pull out the gears. He understands everything here and so he should get out. Putting it together so as not to forget how they stood. Now I will wash, clean and start replacing parts and assembling the box. The box has been disassembled, now I will clean this centuries-old dirt with a scraper. Then I'll try, I have a cutter, you can also use a torch, I'll burn it all to keep it clean. Only then will I collect everything.

We install the intermediate shaft. First we put on the ring, then the small gear, then this one will go, the smaller one. Then we put the big one. Only we will insert all this inside, so we will analyze everything again.

Now we will press in bearing 50 306. We press it in on this side, go to the other side. Now we press in the bearing on the other side. We install the secondary shaft. We stuck the rollers on the grease, now we will insert them into the secondary shaft. That's it, there is nothing interesting here yet. Now we will collect everything, connect it to the distributor. The most interesting thing will begin when we put it in place.

Shock! In UAZ "loaf" invested 2 Llamas! What came of it

To insert the box into the distributor, you need to remove the hatch on the distributor and adjust the gears with your hands. It should line up with the output shaft. Using all kinds of pads, I set up the box like this. Now I will try to push it there. I do the work alone, I don't know if it will work out or not. Until the bottom can not put the box, I stuck it in there, but I have not yet hit the clutch. When I was redoing the floors in the loaf, they all rotted away, I foresaw such a hatch, it is held on by bolts. Now I will try to lift it with ropes from here and insert it.

Also look who is going to alter the body of the loaf, I have such a table. I have it that opens on bearings, and there is access to the rear of the engine. Now I will try to lift the box from here. Everything, as we can see, the box went into its mountings. Luke helped, but only two holes would be enough to stretch the rope. That is, I stretched the rope, tied it in a knot, began to twist it with a crowbar, and the box began to rise. I hope I did everything right. Everything, we collect further.

Having twisted a few turns, I lifted the box to the end, and now you can easily tighten the fasteners of the box pillows. So the hatch passed the test - a necessary thing. That's it, finished the work.

It took me 1,500 rubles for the material: for all the gaskets, oil, bearings. Last time I repaired a box in a car service, the first gear took off, they took 10,000 rubles. Today I had to do it myself, but I saved it.

Four-speed gearbox with synchronizers at all speeds.

1. How to understand - sobsno how to pull out the shafts.

2. On the gear wheel of the third gear (secondary shaft), at the top of one tooth (from the edge, which is closer to the gear wheel of the second gear), there is a small chip - about 2-3 mm in depth and 4-5 mm in length. Change the gear? What is actually more harmful for the box is lapping a new gear or working with a chipped tooth.

Four-speed gearbox with synchronizers at all speeds.

1. How to understand - sobsno how to pull out the shafts.

On the first question, I don’t know, I didn’t understand it, but I remember that in any fairly complete book on repair, such as Orlov & Varchenko, this process is described in detail in steps.
Qualitatively the second IMHO urgently replacing the gear, and it is also better at the same time and the gears are paired with it. So my father once taught me (and even showed me using the example of our old UAZ box), who has a higher education in this matter: if there are chips on one gear, it is (or almost is) on the second.

By the way, Gears are on sale complete with a synchronizer ring already ground to it.

UAZ-469 belongs to the number of cargo-and-passenger vehicles, which are distinguished by an increased level of cross-country ability. The car was produced by the Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant. In addition to UAZ-469, the car plant presented such models as UAZ 452 (loaf), UAZ Patriot.

On the UAZ 469, the gearbox is mechanical, designed for 4-speed. In this case, the 4-speed gearbox is equipped with synchronizers. They are needed to implement speed equalization. There are shafts, while the input shaft is based on two bearings. The intermediate shaft drive gears are helical. To accommodate the occurrence of radial and axial loads during movement, the rear shaft support includes a double-row angular contact ball bearing. Such a checkpoint allows the vehicle to move in reverse. The vehicle is equipped with a transfer case. Transfer case UAZ 469 includes drive axle shafts, gears, which have a long working life.

The advantage of a manual transmission is that it is designed for a long service life.The car, which has off-road qualities and is equipped with a manual transmission, is excellent for cross-country operation.

The vehicle is subject to diagnosis if its handling has deteriorated. In parallel with this, squeaks can be heard when changing gears. Also, it is necessary to check the state of the box if the transmissions are activated spontaneously. In some cases, it is necessary to replace bearings and gears in order to solve the problem with the occurrence of noise. If the gear shift is tight, the synchronizers are checked. The main reason why there is a need to replace the component parts of the box on an SUV is their natural wear and tear.

One of the signs that the transfer case should be checked is if the grip of the wheels on the road has deteriorated, and noise from its side has begun to build up. Improper use of the vehicle leads to the repair of the gearbox on the UAZ 469. In particular, it is necessary to replace the transmission oil in a timely manner.

Another problem that a UAZ driver may encounter is oil leakage from the gearbox. This manifestation is the result of an increased oil level in the gearbox. Also, if water gets into the system while filling the box with new fuel, the motorist will soon encounter the problem of fluid leakage from the gearbox. However, not only the use of low-quality oil can be the reason that a leak will be noted, since there may be a crack on the crankcase or in the cover of the UAZ 469 gearbox.

Thus, the high-speed box of the UAZ 469 car includes many working units that ensure the optimal functioning of the automotive system. Given this, the owner of the vehicle must subject the car to regular maintenance. This will reduce the risk of premature repair of the UAZ 469 gearbox.What kind of locksmith tools are needed to repair a gearbox? To carry out repairs, you should acquire a whole repair kit. In particular, you will need open-end wrenches, socket wrenches, a hammer, screwdrivers, and a mounting spade.It should be noted the large weight of the box, all due to the fact that the device has a message with a dispenser. With this in mind, dismantling the box should not be done alone.How to remove the box? To start the procedure for withdrawing the checkpoint, follow these steps:

UAZ stands on the observation hole.

The transmission oil is drained (this will slightly lighten the weight of the box).

The seats are dismantled in the cabin.

The clutch release fork, frame, cardan shaft, speedometer shaft, clutch pan, muffler adjacent to the distributor must be removed. The curtain must be removed.

The transfer case must be disconnected from the main gearbox. As a rule, the distributor is wrapped with rope and hung.

All consumable parts (bolts, nuts, etc.) are unscrewed.

Since the UAZ gearbox is fixed on the fasteners, they must be unscrewed and the box can be removed from the slots.

The bearings are pressed onto the shaft with a piece of pipe of a suitable length and corresponding diameter.
We carry out further assembly of the gearbox in the reverse order, while degreasing the gaskets and bolts of the crankcase covers and applying sealant to them.
We check the gear shift on the assembled box by turning its shafts by hand. Having installed the gearbox on the car and filled with oil, we check its operation in motion. Transmissions should turn on clearly, without jamming and noise. At the same time, make sure that the gears are fully engaged.

ATTENTION
The lever travel when engaging the first gear in a gearbox with synchronizers only in III-IV gears is 2.5 times greater than when engaging the second gear. Failure to engage the first gear causes rapid wear and destruction of the gears.

Disassembly of a partially synchronized gearbox

Disassemble in the following order:

Remove the side cover with the shifting mechanism.

Remove the input shaft bearing cover

Turn the input shaft with the cutout towards the intermediate shaft drive gear and take out the input shaft with rollers and a synchronizer blocking ring.

Remove the reverse gear block axle retaining screw and press the axle back while removing the reverse gear block (fig. 4).

Remove the plates securing the output shaft rear bearing.

Remove the locking ring of the synchroniser hub (fig. 5) and take the output shaft back. In this case, all gears will be removed from the shaft, and the bearing will remain on the shaft.

Unscrew the cover of the front bearing of the intermediate shaft with a special wrench.

Unscrew the nut of the front bearing of the intermediate shaft with a special wrench and remove the intermediate shaft with the bearing back (fig. 6). In this case, the gears of the drive of the II and III gears will be removed from the shaft.

Unscrew the input shaft bearing nut, which has a left-hand thread, with a special wrench.

Remove the bearing from the input shaft using a puller (fig. 7).

Remove the intermediate shaft rear bearing with a puller. The bearing retaining bolt has a left-hand thread and is secured with a Belleville washer spring.

Disassembly of the synchronized gearbox

Disassemble in the following order:

Remove the side cover with the shifting mechanism.

Using the M8 threaded hole in the rear end of the intermediate reverse gear axle, press the axle back, remove the gear.

Remove the input shaft bearing cover.

Remove the front intermediate shaft bearing cover.

Unscrew the bolt securing the rear bearing of the intermediate shaft (the bolt has a left-hand thread) and remove the washer spring of the bolt.

Using a puller, remove the rear bearings of the input and output shafts by their retaining rings.

Remove the intermediate shaft rear bearing retaining ring.

Install the box so that the countershaft is up, move the countershaft forward until the countershaft gear block stops in the crankcase.

Move the intermediate shaft together with the rear bearing back until the inner race of the front bearing comes out of the rollers and the rear bearing comes out of the crankcase.

Remove the intermediate shaft rear bearing with a puller.

Place the transmission with the shift hatch facing up.

Remove the input shaft, 4th gear locking ring, output shaft assembly (supporting the 1st gear spacer ring) and intermediate shaft assembly from the transaxle case.

Disassembly of the output shaft

Remove the thrust washer and the 1st gear with the needle bearing.

Remove the synchroniser hub retaining rings using a puller and a thrust washer.

Remove the synchronizer of the 1st and 2nd gears together with the gear of the 2nd gear.

Remove the circlip, key and bearing of the 2nd gear gear.

Remove the synchronizer of III and IV gears together with the gear wheel of III gear.

Remove the retaining ring, key, spacer sleeve and bearing of the 3rd gear.

Assemble the gearshift mechanism for cars of the UAZ-31512 family in the following order:

Install the rubber O-ring (Fig. 114) into the selector shaft seal cover.

Rice. 114. Installing the O-ring of the shift shaft cover

Install the rubber O-ring into the hole under the selector lever shaft 23 (see Fig. 105).

Rice. 105. Gear shifting mechanism for cars of the UAZ-3741 family:
1-rod of the reverse gear switch; 2-reverse fork; 3-rod of the plug for engaging III and IV gears; 4-fork III and IV gears; 5-fork I and II gears; 6-rod for inclusion of I and II gears; 7- cotter pin-wire; 8 - plug; 9-washer; 10-shaft for gear shifting; 11-side cover; 12-clutch for gear shifting; 13-blocking spring; 14-gasket; 15-gland cover; 16-shift lever; 17-plug; 18.20-retainer springs; 19-lock plunger; 21-ball retainer; 22-gear selector lever; 23-selector lever; 24-pin; 25-reversing light switch; 26-plug

Install the clutch (fig. 115), thrust washer, thrust spring cup and spring on the shifting shaft. Insert the shaft into the side cover housing and install the gland cover with gasket, secure the cover with three bolts.

Video (click to play).

Rice. 115. Assembling the shaft of gear shifting

Install the selector lever assembly with the shaft (Fig. 116) into the cover housing so that the lever enters the groove in the shift clutch. Lock the lever with a pin, which is hammered in from the bottom.

Turn the side cover over with the machined flange upwards and insert the springs and balls of the III and IV gears and the reverse stem using a mandrel into the retainers of the retainers (see Fig. 113).

Rice. 113. Device for assembling rods and clamps:
a-assembly of the retainer; b-installation of the stem

Install the reverse fork on the stem from the side opposite to the retainer, and after sinking the retainer ball (Fig. 117) into the cover body using a mandrel (see Fig. 113), set the stem to the neutral position. So sequentially collect all the rods (Fig. 118) and forks. Place the keycaps between the rods.

Rice. 117. Assembling the rod and reverse fork

Rice. 118. Assembling the rod and the shift fork of III and IV gears

Fix the forks to the rods with tapered bolts and cotter them with wire (fig. 119), which should not interfere with the movement of the forks. When attaching the forks, the shift clutch lever must be in the groove of the forks.

Rice. 119. Splinting with a wire of the bolts securing the forks:
1-bolt; 2-cotter-wire

Insert the ball and spring of the retainer into the hole in the rods of the 1st and 2nd gears and tighten the plug. At the same time, keep in mind that the spring of the stopper of the 1st and 2nd gears in the free state is longer than the other two springs of the stoppers of the rods.

Install six plugs into the end holes of the cover body, plug into the hole for the shift shaft and rake them out.

Install the selection and shift levers (Fig. 120) on the splines of the shafts and secure them with nuts and lock washers.

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Rice. 120. Installation of external levers of selection and switching

The correct position of the levers is checked with the neutral position of the gears in the gearbox after installing the shift mechanism on the gearbox in accordance with Fig. 121.

Rice. 121. Position of the selection lever and the shift lever after installing the mechanism on the gearbox:
A-corresponding to the reverse; B - corresponding to the inclusion of III and IV gears; B - corresponding to the inclusion of I and II gears;
1-lever selection; 2-shift lever (in neutral)

If you more and more often have to hold the gear lever on the move, if the transfer case levers have been tied with strings for a long time :), if a discordant concert begins under you even on the rear axle, then it's time. It's time to remove the box and figure out how this collection of gears and bearings works.

I warn you right away - I'm not going to argue with the authors of books on UAZs, this article is just an addition to the books, taking into account the fact that you do not have a service station, a lift, three mechanics and the like.

See what kind of gearbox you have. If you are unfamiliar with the concept of "double release with re-throttle", all gears, both "up" and "down", are easily shifted, and the lever travels the same distance when engaging first gear as when engaging third - you have a fully synchronized gearbox. Everything that will be written further about the gearbox does not apply to you. However, the transfer cases are the same, and some of this article may still be useful to you. For off-road conditions, it is preferable to have a gearbox with synchronizers only in third-fourth gears, the so-called. "Old model".

Having decided on the type of your box, we will prepare the tool. For complete disassembly and assembly of the "old-style" gearbox and transfer case without any special tweaks, you need the following tool:

I use red “ABRO” for the gaskets. Domestic white is suitable only for water supply, and even then not everywhere.

I use "Litol" as the cheapest grease.
The gaskets are sold in “For transmission” and “For transfer case” kits. All gaskets need to be changed, the old ones will not work. It is also useful (but not necessary) to buy a “Gearbox Repair Kit” and a “Transfer Case Repair Kit”, which consist of retaining rings, shims and other small things that would be better to change. True, I could not find a distribution kit in all of St. Petersburg, but there are almost no small things there.

In UAZ vehicles, the gearbox and transfer case are interlocked into one unit, which is very correct. But it's very hard (80 kg). Therefore, it is quite difficult to remove this weighty unit alone (and this is what happens most often). The photo shows how I get out of the situation - with the help of the manual winch "Lika-2". But I have a roll cage that I grab onto it. Having once forgotten the winch, I got out of the situation with the help of an ordinary crowbar and rope. But I will not undertake to put the box into place alone without a winch.

So let's get started. We put the car on a flat surface, considering that it will have to be rolled half a meter back and forth. Drain the oil - the gearbox and transfer case have separate drain and filler plugs, although the volume is common.

While the oil is draining, remove the front seats. Then we unscrew and remove the two halves of the hatch in the floor. We turn away and remove the speedometer drive further away.

The oil is just glass, we wrap it in the place of the cork. Unscrew the frame cross member, which runs directly under the parking brake drum. Unscrew the cardans from the transfer case flanges. It is more convenient to unscrew the front cardan if the front axle clutches are disengaged. If your cardan shafts have weak spline nuts, it is better to remove the cardan shafts completely from sin, in general, it is enough to tie them to the frame so that they do not interfere. It is much more convenient to unscrew the rear cardan from the top, from the hatch, here the car will have to roll slightly forward and backward. We unscrew the muffler from the transfer case and loosen the clamp on the muffler itself, otherwise it will interfere.

We unscrew the clutch pan. We unscrew the fastening of the input shaft spline oiler (on the right on the bell) and push the hose inside the bell. We unscrew the four bolts securing the clutch fork cover, remove the spring, twist the adjustment on the slave cylinder rod and pull out the fork.

We wrap the box with the distributor with rope and hang it up.Unscrew and remove the bolts of the pillows, unscrew the nuts securing the box to the bell. Do this gradually, the nuts on the left side will completely unscrew only when the box has already partially moved away from the bell. Help yourself with a montage. In this case, it is better to prop the engine with a jack, otherwise it will remain on two supports and the “rear” part will go down - it will interfere. When the box finally hangs, gently lower it down. It is better to change the studs in the bell - they experience heavy loads, and 50/50 that the thread on them is damaged. If the car is on the ground, the levers must be removed for ease of pulling it out from under the car. When removing the gear lever, the cover must be held - there is a spring under it.

Remove the parking brake lever so that it does not interfere. After unscrewing two bolts and two nuts, we disconnect the gearbox and transfer case. Since the gasket between them is probably on the sealant, they are separated by several blows on the bracket for attaching the unit to the frame. Do not lose the “Countershaft thrust washer”. If it is there and differs from the photo, I beg you to take a photo and send the photo to me, I have never seen it. 🙂 In the photo there is an oil deflector ring out of the box that fits in diameter.

Remove the cover with the gear shift forks. Remove the input shaft cover. Having turned on any gear, we put a copper in the teeth and unscrew the flat nut on the input shaft (it is left!). Now we look inside the box - on the input shaft gear there is a cutout for the large intermediate gear. We put the shaft so that the cutout coincides and neat oblique blows on the shaft we press out the bearing of the input shaft. The main thing is not to rush and beat in a circle, so as not to distort the bearing and spoil the landing one. In the photo, the shaft, which I have already taken out three times, which was before me - I do not know. As you can see, it is hot and does not suffer from blows. If the bearing of the input shaft is worn out, knock down and install a new one. He suffers perhaps the most, so 90% will have to change him. These bearings come with a closed and open cage, I did not understand the difference - it is still under the cover.

Inside the input shaft lives roller bearing without clip. Most likely, it crumbled during disassembly. Collect it. If the last roller gets up easily, you need to change it. With the new set of rollers, the latter can only be inserted with great difficulty and "along". It even seemed to me that they slipped the wrong one :).

Remove the retaining ring from the secondary shaft, unscrew the double-row bearing stoppers. We knock out the secondary shaft. By the way, when I needed to replace only the double-row bearing, I contrived to do it without disassembling anything else. He took off the retaining ring and picked it out 🙂 By the way, that box still drives.

Now we take out the 3-4 gear clutch assembly. Remember how it stood - on the contrary, it will put on the shaft, but the input shaft will not stand. Copper synchronizers will most likely be replaced, as well as three croutons with springs and balls (croutons are now sold without balls, with protrusions, it is easier to assemble). When assembling the coupling, do not turn the inside over the outside. We take out the secondary shaft and defect the shaft, double row and gears.

Remove the reverse gear shaft. To do this, unscrew the locking screw from the hole (marked in red in the figure) with a flat screwdriver, and then knock the shaft out of the box. Inside the gear there is a multi-row bearing with a plastic cage, we take out the retaining rings, a metal tube and defect the bearing. The box of the 72nd edition turned out to be intact :).

First, you need to loosen the nuts of the flanges and shafts of the transfer case - for this, we insert bolts of suitable diameter into the two holes of the flange and hold them with a mounting. The shaft nuts are hidden under the covers, it is imperative to unscrew them - the shafts can be removed with the nuts, but then it is very difficult to unscrew them. Unscrewing the flanges, remove the handbrake (at the same time, you can check its performance and change the pads).The soured working cylinder is disassembled and soaked in diesel fuel, checked. There are no spare parts for the brake - either pads or all assemblies.

We remove the covers with oil seals and change the oil seals (unless they are completely new), not forgetting to fill the free space with "Litol". Unscrew the bolt by 10 and take out the speedometer drive. Unscrew the breather and replace it with a new one (100% soured). Better yet, a pipe to the salon. Unscrew the stopper for the guide forks.

Now you can “halve” the transfer case - Remove all retaining rings from the bearings, unscrew all the bolts around the perimeter and remove the large-sized cover. If necessary, we change the roller bearing in this cover, the inner race is pressed onto the shaft. There are two bearings on the rear axle shaft, the second one must be inspected.

The razdatka is assembled in the reverse order. It is necessary to carefully inspect the flanges and replace at the slightest sign of wear on the splines, it progresses very quickly. Wear on the forks is also unacceptable. Do not forget to core the nuts.

Let me extract one detail in your story about the repair of the RK, namely: when you change the roller bearing on the intermediate shaft, you need to knock out the plug in the RK housing that closes it, because the bearing race is pressed in 3 mm from the outer edge of the housing (you cannot catch this without removing the plug). The plug itself is put into place already on the fully assembled RK (so that you can check the bearing preload). Before installing the plug, straighten on the plate, then a thin layer of sealant is applied to the edges of the hole in the RK housing under the plug and the plug is set in place using a mandrel (instead of it, you can use a piece of pipe 6-8 mm smaller in diameter, i.e. a tight fit is achieved due to the uniform indentation of the middle).

We glue the gaskets between the box and the distributor on the sealant. We put in place the bracket for fastening to the frame. We put the transfer case on the hand brake drum, and holding the gear in the transfer case through the “power take-off hatch” we lower the box into place, not forgetting to put the same “intermediate shaft thrust washer”. We take care of our fingers. We tighten two bolts and two nuts, put on covers with levers and check the operation of all gearboxes and handouts. We are glad that it turned out.

We change the release bearing for a pre-welded in nigrol. We remove the levers, drag the unit under the car and hang it on a rope. We put the clutch release assembly on the box, put the spring. Now the most difficult moment is to insert the input shaft into the clutch. Slightly moving the box up and down, turning the engine with a jack and turning the engine by the flywheel, sooner or later we put the box in place. Do not put the box right next to it - first, on the left, insert the growers with nuts into the slot. We pull the unit to the engine, fasten it to the pillows. We install in place the clutch fork and the oiler of the input shaft splines. We put in place the speedometer drive, covers with handles, handbrake, cardan shafts. Please note - in stores, disposable gimbal bolts are often sold. The normal bolt is hardened, with an “X” on the head. The letter "Ч" on the head means the manufacturing plant and does not serve as a guarantee of strength. We put in place the cross member of the frame, we fasten the bracket of the muffler to the distributor. Setting up the handbrake.

Fill up with oil, put the hatch in place, the seats and go to check the results of a well-spent weekend 🙂
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