Gearbox uaz 5-step DIY repair

Yesterday there was such a situation: when the car was moving, there was a crackling and all transmissions stopped working. That is, when you turn on any gear and try to get under way, there is a crunch of gears, and the car does not move. Few people undertake to make these machines, and those who do it have a queue. I'll have to do it myself.

Now I will unscrew the cardan and remove the gearbox. I will try to repair it myself. Unscrewed the box mounting bolts: on one side 2 bolts; on the other side 2 bolts. Put down the pallet. Now I will try to shoot it. So she sagged. That's it, the box is removed. Now I will pull it out and examine it.

I took off the box, now I will disconnect it from the distributor. And immediately that catches the eye - this backlash, the backlash of the input shaft. It still remains a mystery to me how I will put it in its place, but time will tell. I disconnected the box from the distributor, and the second thing that caught my eye was that this nut was unscrewed. And it looks like we have a left-hand thread.

He unscrewed the cover, unscrewed the flange mounting bolts. Now let's see what's inside. I don't see anything dramatic yet. Now I'll see, if anything, I'll tell you. Apparently, this was the problem. This block of gears, this shaft is all shaking, dangling. And here it squeezed out the lid that needs to be screwed on.

Apparently, the problem is in this bearing of the gear block, because the entire shaft sometimes does not mesh, because it dangles. And the synchronizer has practically no teeth. I have a friend, a specialist in VAZ nearby, I will now consult with him and continue the repair.

I consulted with a specialist, they said that both bearings of the intermediate shaft and the bearing of the input shaft are being replaced. They told the ground synchronizer not to touch it, to leave it that way, because there are no rusks or balls. It will work fine. It is also necessary to change the oil sump washer.

I went to the store and bought bearings: 50 208 with a groove on the input shaft; 50 306 to the intermediate shaft. I still need a 305th open bearing without a groove, but there was no open one, I bought a closed one. Then I will remove these rubber things - it will be open. Also, sealant, gaskets for the box, oil squeegees and bolts for the universal joint.

Now we will disassemble the box. To remove the intermediate shaft, these gears must be removed. To do this, I unscrewed this bolt. It must be unscrewed. Now I will knock out the axle. All knocked out.

Now we will knock out the intermediate shaft itself. To do this, we need to unscrew this nut. And you will have to hit the bearing from the other side so that it falls out here. Now let's see how it goes. It was not possible to unscrew this cover, because it was squeezed out, and it did not go along the thread. I just broke it. I don’t know if there are such on sale or not, it is aluminum. Look what happened to the bearing there - practically nothing remained of it.

Now we need to press out the input shaft. Here on the gear there is a place where there are no teeth. It must be placed so that it does not interfere with the exit, so that the teeth do not cling to this gear. We twist, set, now we will press out. I found such an iron screwdriver, I'll put it in now. This input shaft came out very easily.

Let's go further. We pulled out the primary shaft, now we proceed to the secondary shaft. It is necessary to unscrew these bolts, remove this lock washer, and hit the bearing there so that the bearing comes out. I have already unscrewed these plates, which held the bearing in the groove. Now I remove the lock washer, then remove the lock washer. Now you can hit the bearing to make it come out.Now I will press out the bearing with hammer blows. The bearing needs to be pulled out of here, I'll try now. After removing the bearing and removing (inaudible 09:35) washers, I pull out the output shaft.

To remove the intermediate shaft, you need to unscrew this nut and drive it in there. Now let's try how it will be. I unscrewed the countershaft nut, there was a retainer from the bearing, and now we will pull out the gears. He understands everything here and so he should get out. Putting it together so as not to forget how they stood. Now I will wash, clean and start replacing parts and assembling the box. The box has been disassembled, now I will clean this centuries-old dirt with a scraper. Then I'll try, I have a cutter, you can also use a torch, I'll burn it all to keep it clean. Only then will I collect everything.

We install the intermediate shaft. First we put on the ring, then the small gear, then this one will go, the smaller one. Then we put the big one. Only we will insert all this inside, so we will analyze everything again.

Now we will press in bearing 50 306. We press it in on this side, go to the other side. Now we press in the bearing on the other side. We install the secondary shaft. We stuck the rollers on the grease, now we will insert them into the secondary shaft. That's it, there is nothing interesting here yet. Now we will collect everything, connect it to the distributor. The most interesting thing will begin when we put it in place.

Shock! In UAZ "loaf" invested 2 Llamas! What came of it

To insert the box into the distributor, you need to remove the hatch on the distributor and adjust the gears with your hands. It should line up with the output shaft. Using all kinds of pads, I set up the box like this. Now I will try to push it there. I do the work alone, I don't know if it will work out or not. Until the bottom can not put the box, I stuck it in there, but I have not yet hit the clutch. When I was redoing the floors in the loaf, they all rotted away, I foresaw such a hatch, it is held on by bolts. Now I will try to lift it with ropes from here and insert it.

Also look who is going to alter the body of the loaf, I have such a table. I have it that opens on bearings, and there is access to the rear of the engine. Now I will try to lift the box from here. Everything, as we can see, the box went into its mountings. Luke helped, but only two holes would be enough to stretch the rope. That is, I stretched the rope, tied it in a knot, began to twist it with a crowbar, and the box began to rise. I hope I did everything right. Everything, we collect further.

Having twisted a few turns, I lifted the box to the end, and now you can easily tighten the fasteners of the box pillows. So the hatch passed the test - a necessary thing. That's it, finished the work.

It took me 1,500 rubles for the material: for all the gaskets, oil, bearings. Last time I repaired a box in a car service, the first gear took off, they took 10,000 rubles. Today I had to do it myself, but I saved it.

Many owners of domestic cars often encounter malfunctions in the gearbox of the UAZ. But a Russian person is built in such a way that he always prefers to postpone repairs until later. As a result, the UAZ gearshift lever often starts to junk.

From the transmission, the rumble of gears is constantly heard, and sometimes the box stops responding altogether. It's time to start repairing it or replacing it with a better one, for example, the ADS checkpoint or the Daimos checkpoint.

The Russian organization Avtodetal-Service (ADS) specializes in the production of gearboxes for UAZ vehicles. The 5-speed gearbox "ADS Expert" is supplied to the Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant, where it is equipped with current models of domestic off-road vehicles. It is a one-piece crankcase and is synchronized in all forward gears.

The gearbox is equipped with both a spur and helical transfer case. Modern boxes "ADS Expert" have the following features.

1. By increasing the length of the gear change lever, the gearbox mechanisms function more smoothly.
2. The redesigned transfer case rod is equipped with a handbrake return spring mounting bracket, making it much easier to assemble the gearbox during installation.
3. The general gearbox layout and the selective gear changer have changed somewhat. This made it possible to prevent oil leakage and protect the gearbox sheathing from the penetration of earth and water.
4. A special sensor is mounted in the design, which provides uninterrupted power supply to the rear lights.
5. The filler opening of the transmission chamber is 2 cm lower. This is done to improve the circulation of oil inside the gearbox. Its getting into the transfer case is completely excluded.

In addition to ADS Expert, in 2013 an improved version of the gearbox from Daimos, based on electric control, was developed for UAZ Patriot. This made it possible to completely eliminate the use of the RCP lever. Instead, a special washer is built in. The rear propeller shaft has also changed: it was shortened and the intermediate support was removed.

5-speed gearbox "Daimos" is also suitable for other UAZ models, including Simbir, Hunter and UAZ-3160.

To install a gearbox of a new model on the UAZ Hunter, it will be necessary to change the floor hatches of the car body to more modern ones. The other 2 car models will require a little modernization, since it is necessary to cut a hole in the floor for the gearshift lever.

During the installation work, qualified assistance will be needed, therefore it is recommended to entrust the replacement of the gearbox to a licensed service station.

If you want to replace some parts of the gearbox yourself, use the instructions for complete disassembly and assembly of the gearbox for UAZ. In this case, the repair can be carried out without the use of a lift and outside help.

Dismantling the UAZ gearbox will require the following tools and materials:

• a set of open-end and socket wrenches from 10 to 36;
• a special wrench for tightening the flat nuts (you can use a bicycle one);
• a set of Phillips and flathead screwdrivers;
• service wrench with straight and curved end (pliers);
• copper synchronizer or rod for working with gears;
• a small piece of metal pipe for holding keys when tightening nuts in hard-to-reach places;
• core chisel and heavy hammer;
• a set of gaskets for the UAZ gearbox;
• quality sealant that will be used to install the gaskets.

When choosing a set of keys, it is important that they are as compact and thin as possible. Most fasteners are in an awkward position for dismantling, so choosing the right keys will save you time and hassle.

It is advisable to take gaskets for the current model, but if your car is of an old model, for example, with a UAZ 3303 gearbox, any set for the previous generation of cars will do.

If there is a need to update the gearbox, you will need to buy special sets of hardware for the gearbox and transfer case. The second set can be problematic as it is not easy to find in auto parts stores.

The scheme of the UAZ gearbox has its own peculiarities of connecting the transfer case and the gearbox. Of course, this type of construction provides a huge advantage, but it is difficult to remove it yourself, since the unit weighs about 80 kg. Without outside help, you will have to lift the car with a hand winch. In this case, you need to make sure that she has reliable support. For example, a metal frame or a sturdy beamed ceiling. The structure must be able to easily support the weight of your vehicle.

Before starting work, place the machine on a level surface. Then it is necessary to drain the oil from the gearbox and transfer case. Despite the common feeding system, each has separate drain plugs. While the grease flows out, you can dismantle the front seats, the dashboard and 2 hatches, which are located at the bottom of the body.After the oil has drained to the end, you need to put the plugs back in place.

Begin by unscrewing the frame crossbar, which is located under the handbrake system. Dismantle the front universal joint by disconnecting it from the transfer case flanges. Disconnecting the front axle couplings will help facilitate this process. The rear universal joint must be removed from the upper side of the body.

Next, you need to disconnect the exhaust pipe from the transfer case. In this case, it is necessary to loosen the fastening of the clamp on the pipe, otherwise it will interfere.

The clutch system must be dismantled, you should start by untwisting the fasteners of the input shaft splines, while the hose is pushed into the bell. Loosen the 4 bolts that hold the clutch fork trim and remove the spring. Then unscrew the function cylinder controller and remove the plug.

The transfer case and gearbox will need to be well wrapped with a cable or rope and left for a while. Unscrew the pillow mounts and hardware holding the gearbox on the bell. This is done gradually and evenly. You can completely unscrew the bolts and nuts only if the box has moved slightly away from the bell. It is recommended to make temporary support for the machine motor using a jack, otherwise its lower part will hang and interfere. After successfully disconnecting the transmission, you can remove it completely.

It is best to replace worn parts inside the bell with new ones. This is especially true for studs, as their threads grind off very quickly.

Where to start dismantling the checkpoint

Dismantle the handbrake lever so that it does not interfere. After that, unwind the hardware connecting the checkpoint and the transfer case. Most often, this cannot be done in one motion, since the parts are held together with a sealant. We'll have to hit the knot well to sever them. It is very important to keep an eye on the spare parts, after disconnecting nothing should be lost. It is advisable to place them in one container and set aside until assembly.

The transmission and transfer case should be inspected for worn parts. To disassemble these parts, you need to try hard, since the bolts and nuts are in hard-to-reach places.

The input shaft has a roller bearing that has no cage, so in most cases it crumbles when dismantled. After assembling it, you need to pay attention to how the last video is placed. If the roller enters easily, it will have to be replaced, as this indicates wear on the part.

First you need to glue the gaskets to the gearbox and transfer case with a sealant. After that, the bracket is attached to the frame.

The handbrake system is installed back to the transfer case. For convenience, you need to hold the gear and lower the gearbox to its place through the hatch in the floor. Before this, you need to make sure that all the elements that were folded into a separate container are installed in their positions. Tighten the fastening hardware and put on the transmission cover. Now you need to check the functionality of the checkpoint. All gears should be shifted effortlessly, the absence of excess noise is important.

It is necessary to replace the release bearing with a new one, as this part wears out quickly. Dismantle the levers and hang the transmission with a secure cable. The finished release bearing is put on the gearbox, after which the spring is installed.

We proceed to one of the most difficult stages. It is necessary to insert the input shaft into the clutch system. It is quite difficult to do it yourself, but it is quite possible. You will need to try a little and move the gearbox in different directions, and do the same with the engine using a jack. Sooner or later, it will fall into place, but do not rush to push it close. First, insert the nut growers into the right hole. Then pull the transmission to the engine and secure the pillows.

Proceed with the installation of the clutch yoke and spline housing from the input shaft. This should be done in the same way as during dismantling, but in the reverse order. There are no special tricks here, difficulties will not arise.

Install the dashboard, parking brake and driveshafts using the same principle. It is recommended to replace the gimbal mount with a stronger one. In auto parts stores, you can buy hardened bolts, which are indicated by an English letter X on the cap. Avoid locally made bindings as they are rarely of high quality.

Refit the frame bar, attach the exhaust pipe bracket to the transfer case and adjust the parking brake. Refill with oil, close the sunroof and install the seats. Good luck!

About the book: ADS EXPERT gearbox manual for UAZ. 2007 edition.
Book format: pdf file in zip archive
Pages: 19
Language : Russian
The size : 6.9 mb
Download: free, no restrictions and passwords

Manual for the five-speed gearbox ADS EXPERT for UAZ, installation, malfunctions and their elimination.

Five-speed gearbox ADS EXPERT, manufactured by OJSC Avtodetal-Service, mechanical, synchronized in all forward gears, in one-piece crankcase 420.3181-1700010-02 or 420.3182-1700010. The gearshift scheme is classic.

Gearbox 420.3181-1700010-02 is intended for installation on cars of the family UAZ-3160, UAZ-3162 Simbir, UAZ Hunter with gasoline engines ZMZ-409, UMZ-4218 and diesel engines ZMZ-514 and Andoria.

Gearbox 420.3182-1700010 is intended for installation on cars of the cargo-passenger family UAZ-3741, UAZ-3962, UAZ-3303, UAZ-2206, UAZ-3909 with gasoline engines UMZ-4178, UMZ-4218, UMZ-4213, ZMZ-409.

In order to increase the resource indicators of the five-speed ADS EXPERT gearbox, its modernization was carried out:

1. Increased the length of the gear lever in the gearbox mechanism. The design of the cam for returning the lever to the neutral position has been changed, which made gear shifting clearer and easier, and eliminated the possibility of self-switching of the forward and reverse gears.

2. The pin for the transfer case has been improved, an additional mounting bracket for the parking brake return spring has been installed, and the design of the housing of the eyelet of the rear end of the gearbox has been changed, which has increased convenience and saved time when installing and assembling the gearbox with the transfer case.

3. The design of the selective gear shifting mechanism was changed, an additional rubber seal for the lever was introduced, which made it possible to exclude the possibility of transmission oil leakage from under the lever. The properties of the rubber from which the boot is made were improved, this ensured full protection of the gearbox mechanism from dust and dirt and significantly increased the resource of the boot, and as a result, its reliability.

4. A reinforced design reverse gear sensor is installed with protection against aggressive environments, this ensures its uninterrupted operation.

5. Moved 20 mm below the filler hole in the gearbox housing, installed an oil deflector for the secondary shaft bearing, thereby ensuring better oil circulation in the unit and excluding spontaneous pumping of oil from the gearbox to the transfer case.

In addition to the above improvements, the five-speed ADS EXPERT gearbox has a number of consumer advantages:

- Extended range of speeds.
- Reducing fuel consumption by up to 20%.
- Installation of the gearbox is possible with both a spur and helical transfer case.
- Reduction of noise level during operation of the gearbox up to 80 dB.
- Easy and precise gear shifting.
- Wide range of installation kits.

1. General information about transmissions 420.3181-1700010-02 and 420.3182-1700010

2. Operational, technical characteristics of gearboxes 420.3181-1700010-02, 420.3182-1700010

3. Disassembly of gearboxes 420.3181-1700010-02, 420.3182-1700010

3.1. Removing the input shaft
3.2. Removing the output shaft
3.3. Removing the intermediate shaft

4. Malfunctions and their elimination

5. Assembly of gearboxes 420.3181-1700010-02, 420.3182-1700010

6. Instructions for installing gearboxes 420.3181-1700010-02, 420.3182-1700010 on UAZ vehicles

6.1.Instructions for installing gearbox 420.3181-1700010-02 on UAZ-3160, UAZ-3162 Simbir, UAZ Hunter cars
6.2. Instructions for installing gearbox 420.3182-1700010 on UAZ-3741, UAZ-3962, UAZ-3303, UAZ-2206, UAZ-3909 vehicles

7.Installation kits for gearboxes 420.3182-1700010 produced by JSC Avtodetal-Service

8. Parts for the repair of five-speed gearboxes manufactured by JSC Avtodetal-Service

9. List of gearbox wear parts

UAZ cars (loaf) have the most capacious body. The body of the machine is made of durable material. The vehicle is equipped with security systems, a robust power unit that is capable of developing more than 100 horsepower, and a transmission system.

The all-wheel drive passenger-and-freight UAZ, which has increased cross-country ability, began to be mass-produced at the Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant in the mid-1960s.

On the machines of the UAZ - 452 family of the new model, there is a manual transmission (four-speed). Synchronizers of the inertial type provide easy shifting of gears. The five-speed ADS gearbox is synchronized in all forward gears.

A 5-speed manual transmission Daimos (DYMOS) can be installed on the UAZ. This transmission is distinguished by its reliability. The average resource of its work is 300,000 km of run. The filler plug is located in the middle of the box, the drain is at the bottom. It seems possible to unscrew them with a hex wrench. When the oil is drained, a special container should be prepared. New fluid must be filled up to the level of the oil filler hole on the box. The dipstick allows you to accurately determine to what mark the liquid is poured. An alternative to the stylus is a long nail. For preventive purposes, it is necessary to measure the oil level every 15,000 km.