Transfer case assembly is done upside-down. These steps are repeated when working with other types of this car brand (including when repairing the UAZ Hunter gearbox). Install the fastener bracket to the frame. They put the transfer case on the parking brake drum and, holding the gear, lower it into place through the power take-off hatch.
Before this, place a lock washer from the intermediate shaft. Tighten the bolts and nuts, put on the cover with levers and check the operation of all gears. They change the release bearing, remove the levers, drag the entire unit under the car and hang it on a rope. Slide the release bearing assembly onto the box and reinforce the spring. Then insert the input shaft and clutch. This is done as follows:
Attach the oiler of the input shaft splines and the plug in place, put the speedometer drive, cardans, handbrake, covers in place. It is necessary to return the frame cross member to its place and fix the muffler bracket to the transfer case.
Adjustment and adjustment of the hand brake, oil change are performed. If the UAZ Hunter checkpoint is being repaired, you may need not only these actions, but also the adjustment of the rods. Screw the hatch on the floor, put the seats. This completes the repair of the UAZ 452 checkpoint on its own.
VIDEO
In order to properly repair the UAZ 452 gearbox on your own, you must strictly adhere to the sequence of actions described above. Difficulties in repairing other models of this brand may be caused by a different arrangement of the main parts of the machine, for example, rods. The oil change must be carried out in accordance with the technical requirements for this type of vehicle.
Do-it-yourself UAZ 469 checkpoint repair is a feasible task for a person who wants to save money. For other owners of UAZs (for example, UAZ loaf), all of the above can be taken into account and the UAZ gearbox can be repaired, taking into account some difference in details and the location of the rods.
Yesterday there was such a situation: when the car was moving, there was a crackling and all transmissions stopped working. That is, when you turn on any gear and try to get under way, there is a crunch of gears, and the car does not move. Few people undertake to make these machines, and those who do it have a queue. I'll have to do it myself.
Now I will unscrew the cardan and remove the gearbox. I will try to repair it myself. Unscrewed the box mounting bolts: on one side 2 bolts; on the other side 2 bolts. Put down the pallet. Now I will try to shoot it. So she sagged. That's it, the box is removed.Now I will pull it out and examine it.
I took off the box, now I will disconnect it from the distributor. And immediately that catches the eye - this backlash, the backlash of the input shaft. It still remains a mystery to me how I will put it in its place, but time will tell. I disconnected the box from the distributor, and the second thing that caught my eye was that this nut was unscrewed. And it looks like we have a left-hand thread.
He unscrewed the cover, unscrewed the flange mounting bolts. Now let's see what's inside. I don't see anything dramatic yet. Now I'll see, if anything, I'll tell you. Apparently, this was the problem. This block of gears, this shaft is all shaking, dangling. And here it squeezed out the lid that needs to be screwed on.
Apparently, the problem is in this bearing of the gear block, because the entire shaft sometimes does not mesh, because it dangles. And the synchronizer has practically no teeth. I have a friend, a specialist in VAZ nearby, I will now consult with him and continue the repair.
I consulted with a specialist, they said that both bearings of the intermediate shaft and the bearing of the input shaft are being replaced. They told the ground synchronizer not to touch it, to leave it that way, because there are no rusks or balls. It will work fine. It is also necessary to change the oil sump washer.
I went to the store and bought bearings: 50 208 with a groove on the input shaft; 50 306 to the intermediate shaft. I still need a 305th open bearing without a groove, but there was no open one, I bought a closed one. Then I will remove these rubber things - it will be open. Also, sealant, gaskets for the box, oil squeegees and bolts for the universal joint.
Now we will disassemble the box. To remove the intermediate shaft, these gears must be removed. To do this, I unscrewed this bolt. It must be unscrewed. Now I will knock out the axle. All knocked out.
Now we will knock out the intermediate shaft itself. To do this, we need to unscrew this nut. And you will have to hit the bearing from the other side so that it falls out here. Now let's see how it goes. It was not possible to unscrew this cover, because it was squeezed out, and it did not go along the thread. I just broke it. I don’t know if there are such on sale or not, it is aluminum. Look what happened to the bearing there - practically nothing remained of it.
Now we need to press out the input shaft. Here on the gear there is a place where there are no teeth. It must be placed so that it does not interfere with the exit, so that the teeth do not cling to this gear. We twist, set, now we will press out. I found such an iron screwdriver, I'll put it in now. This input shaft came out very easily.
Let's go further. We pulled out the primary shaft, now we proceed to the secondary shaft. It is necessary to unscrew these bolts, remove this lock washer, and hit the bearing there so that the bearing comes out. I have already unscrewed these plates, which held the bearing in the groove. Now I remove the lock washer, then remove the lock washer. Now you can hit the bearing to make it come out. Now I will press out the bearing with hammer blows. The bearing needs to be pulled out of here, I'll try now. After removing the bearing and removing (inaudible 09:35) washers, I pull out the output shaft.
To remove the intermediate shaft, you need to unscrew this nut and drive it in there. Now let's try how it will be. I unscrewed the countershaft nut, there was a retainer from the bearing, and now we will pull out the gears. He understands everything here and so he should get out. Putting it together so as not to forget how they stood. Now I will wash, clean and start replacing parts and assembling the box. The box has been disassembled, now I will clean this centuries-old dirt with a scraper. Then I'll try, I have a cutter, you can also use a torch, I'll burn it all to keep it clean. Only then will I collect everything.
We install the intermediate shaft. First we put on the ring, then the small gear, then this one will go, the smaller one. Then we put the big one. Only we will insert all this inside, so we will analyze everything again.
Now we will press in bearing 50 306.Press in on this side, go to the other side. Now we press in the bearing on the other side. We install the secondary shaft. We stuck the rollers on the grease, now we will insert them into the secondary shaft. That's it, there is nothing interesting here yet. Now we will collect everything, connect it to the distributor. The most interesting thing will begin when we put it in place.
Shock! In UAZ "loaf" invested 2 Llamas! What came of it
To insert the box into the distributor, you need to remove the hatch on the distributor and adjust the gears with your hands. It should line up with the output shaft. Using all kinds of pads, I set up the box like this. Now I will try to push it there. I do the work alone, I don't know if it will work out or not. Until the bottom can not put the box, I stuck it in there, but I have not yet hit the clutch. When I was redoing the floors in the loaf, they all rotted away, I have foreseen such a hatch, it is held on by bolts. Now I will try to lift it with ropes from here and insert it.
Also look who is going to alter the body of the loaf, I have such a table. I have it that opens on bearings, and there is access to the rear of the engine. Now I will try to lift the box from here. Everything, as we can see, the box went into its mountings. Luke helped, but only two holes would be enough to stretch the rope. That is, I stretched the rope, tied it in a knot, began to twist it with a crowbar, and the box began to rise. I hope I did everything right. Everything, we collect further.
Having twisted a few turns, I lifted the box to the end, and now you can easily tighten the fasteners of the box pillows. So the hatch passed the test - a necessary thing. That's it, finished the work.
It took me 1,500 rubles for the material: for all the gaskets, oil, bearings. Last time I repaired a box in a car service, the first gear took off, they took 10,000 rubles. Today I had to do it myself, but I saved it.
If you increasingly have to hold the gear lever on the move, if the transfer case levers have been tied with ropes for a long time :), if a discordant concert begins under you even on the rear axle, then it's time. It's time to remove the box and figure out how this collection of gears and bearings works.
I warn you right away - I'm not going to argue with the authors of books on UAZs, this article is just an addition to the books, taking into account the fact that you do not have a service station, a lift, three mechanics and the like.
See what kind of gearbox you have. If you are unfamiliar with the concept of "double release with re-throttle", all gears, both "up" and "down", are easily shifted, and the lever travels the same distance when engaging first gear as when engaging third - you have a fully synchronized gearbox. Everything that will be written further about the gearbox does not apply to you. However, the transfer cases are the same, and some of this article may still be useful to you. For off-road conditions, it is preferable to have a gearbox with synchronizers only in third-fourth gears, the so-called. "Old model".
Having decided on the type of your box, we will prepare the tool. For complete disassembly and assembly of the "old-style" gearbox and transfer case without any special tweaks, you need the following tool:
I use red “ABRO” for the gaskets. Domestic white is suitable only for water supply, and even then not everywhere.
I use "Litol" as the cheapest grease.
In UAZ vehicles, the gearbox and transfer case are interlocked into one unit, which is very correct. But it's very hard (80 kg). Therefore, it is quite difficult to remove this weighty unit alone (and this is what happens most often). The photo shows how I get out of the situation - with the help of the manual winch "Lika-2". But I have a roll cage that I grab onto it. Having once forgotten the winch, I got out of the situation with the help of an ordinary crowbar and rope. But I will not undertake to put the box into place alone without a winch.
So let's get started. We put the car on a flat surface, considering that it will have to be rolled half a meter back and forth. Drain the oil - the gearbox and transfer case have separate drain and filler plugs, although the volume is common.
While the oil is draining, remove the front seats. Then we unscrew and remove the two halves of the hatch in the floor. We turn away and remove the speedometer drive further away.
The oil is just glass, we wrap it in the place of the cork. Unscrew the frame cross member, which runs directly under the parking brake drum. Unscrew the cardans from the transfer case flanges. It is more convenient to unscrew the front cardan if the front axle clutches are disengaged. If your cardan shafts have weak spline nuts, it is better to remove the cardan shafts completely from sin, in general, it is enough to tie them to the frame so that they do not interfere. It is much more convenient to unscrew the rear cardan from the top, from the hatch, here the car will have to roll slightly forward and backward. We unscrew the muffler from the transfer case and loosen the clamp on the muffler itself, otherwise it will interfere.
We wrap the box with the distributor with rope and hang it up. Unscrew and remove the bolts of the pillows, unscrew the nuts securing the box to the bell. Do this gradually, the nuts on the left side will completely unscrew only when the box has already partially moved away from the bell. Help yourself with a montage. In this case, it is better to prop the engine with a jack, otherwise it will remain on two supports and the “rear” part will go down - it will interfere. When the box finally hangs, gently lower it down. It is better to change the studs in the bell - they experience heavy loads, and 50/50 that the thread on them is damaged. If the car is on the ground, the levers must be removed for ease of pulling it out from under the car. When removing the gear lever, the cover must be held - there is a spring under it.
neat oblique blows on the shaft we press out the bearing of the input shaft. The main thing is not to rush and beat in a circle, so as not to distort the bearing and spoil the landing one. In the photo, the shaft, which I have already taken out three times, which was before me - I do not know. As you can see, it is hot and does not suffer from blows. If the bearing of the input shaft is worn out, knock down and install a new one. He suffers perhaps the most, so 90% will have to change him.These bearings come with a closed and open cage, I did not understand the difference - it is still under the cover.
Inside the input shaft lives roller bearing without clip. Most likely, it crumbled during disassembly. Collect it. If the last roller gets up easily, you need to change it. With the new set of rollers, the latter can only be inserted with great difficulty and "along". It even seemed to me that they slipped the wrong one :).
First you need to loosen the nuts of the flanges and shafts of the transfer case - for this, we insert bolts of suitable diameter into the two holes of the flange and hold them with a mounting. The shaft nuts are hidden under the covers, it is imperative to unscrew them - the shafts can be removed with the nuts, but then it is very difficult to unscrew them. Unscrewing the flanges, remove the handbrake (at the same time, you can check its performance and change the pads). The soured working cylinder is disassembled and soaked in diesel fuel, checked. There are no spare parts for the brake - either pads or all assemblies.
We remove the covers with oil seals and change the oil seals (unless they are completely new), not forgetting to fill the free space with "Litol". Unscrew the bolt by 10 and take out the speedometer drive. Unscrew the breather and replace it with a new one (100% soured). Better yet, a pipe to the salon. Unscrew the stopper for the guide forks.
Now you can “halve” the transfer case - Remove all the circlips from the bearings, unscrew all the bolts around the perimeter and remove the large cover. If necessary, we change the roller bearing in this cover, the inner race is pressed onto the shaft. There are two bearings on the rear axle shaft, the second one must be inspected.
The razdatka is assembled in the reverse order. It is necessary to carefully inspect the flanges and replace at the slightest sign of wear on the splines, it progresses very quickly. Wear on the forks is also unacceptable. Do not forget to core the nuts.
Let me extract one detail in your story about the repair of the RK, namely: when you change the roller bearing on the intermediate shaft, you need to knock out the plug in the RK housing that closes it, because the bearing race is pressed in 3 mm from the outer edge of the housing (you cannot catch this without removing the plug). The plug itself is put into place already on the fully assembled RK (so that you can check the bearing preload). Before installing the plug, straighten on the plate, then a thin layer of sealant is applied to the edges of the hole in the RK housing under the plug and the plug is set in place using a mandrel (instead of it, you can use a piece of pipe 6-8 mm smaller in diameter, i.e. a tight fit is achieved due to the uniform indentation of the middle).
We glue the gaskets between the box and the distributor on the sealant. We put in place the bracket for fastening to the frame.We put the transfer case on the hand brake drum, and holding the gear in the transfer case through the “power take-off hatch”, we lower the box into place, not forgetting to put the same “intermediate shaft thrust washer”. We take care of our fingers. We tighten two bolts and two nuts, put on covers with levers and check the operation of all gearboxes and handouts. We are glad that it turned out.
We change the release bearing for a pre-welded in nigrol. We remove the levers, drag the unit under the car and hang it on a rope. We put the clutch release assembly on the box, put the spring. Now the most difficult moment is to insert the input shaft into the clutch. Slightly moving the box up and down, turning the engine with a jack and turning the engine by the flywheel, sooner or later we put the box in place. Do not put the box right next to it - first, on the left, insert the growers with nuts into the slot. We pull the unit to the engine, fasten it to the pillows. We install in place the clutch fork and the oiler of the input shaft splines. We put in place the speedometer drive, covers with handles, handbrake, cardan shafts. Please note - in stores, disposable gimbal bolts are often sold. The normal bolt is hardened, with an “X” on the head. The letter "Ч" on the head means the manufacturing plant and does not serve as a guarantee of strength. We put in place the cross member of the frame, we fasten the bracket of the muffler to the distributor. Setting up the handbrake.
Fill up with oil, put the hatch in place, the seats and go to check the results of a well-spent weekend 🙂
UAZ cars (loaf) have the most capacious body. The body of the machine is made of durable material. The vehicle is equipped with security systems, a robust power unit capable of developing more than 100 horsepower, and a transmission system.
The all-wheel drive passenger-and-freight UAZ, which has increased cross-country ability, began to be mass-produced at the Ulyanovsk Automobile Plant in the mid-1960s.
On the machines of the UAZ - 452 family of the new model, there is a manual transmission (four-speed). Synchronizers of the inertial type provide easy shifting of gears. The five-speed ADS gearbox is synchronized in all forward gears.
A 5-speed manual transmission Daimos (DYMOS) can be installed on the UAZ. This transmission is distinguished by its reliability. The average resource of its work is 300,000 km of run. The filler plug is located in the middle of the box, the drain is at the bottom. It seems possible to unscrew them with a hex wrench. When the oil is drained, a special container should be prepared. New fluid must be filled up to the level of the oil filler hole on the box. The dipstick allows you to accurately determine to what mark the liquid is poured. An alternative to the stylus is a long nail. For preventive purposes, it is necessary to measure the oil level every 15,000 km.
VIDEO
The presence of mechanics on this version of the vehicle is fully justified. It is important to use such a car on rough terrain, off-road. In addition, there will be no towing problems.
The gearbox has external shift levers. The lever in the cab moves freely both parallel and perpendicular to its axis.
The machine is equipped with a transfer case. In the design of the transfer case on the UAZ 452: drive axle shafts, gears. All of the listed components are located in a cast iron crankcase. The crankcase and cover are connected with nuts. The shift fork rods are securely fixed in the cover.
There is a slot, bearings. There is a helical gear wheel for the speedometer drive. The intermediate shaft is fixed on the bearings of the "loaf". This box contains reliable straight-toothed gears.
Thus, the gearbox on the UAZ 452 consists of many components and assemblies. This unit needs regular maintenance.
This vehicle must be diagnosed if the control began to deteriorate, characteristic squeaks were heard, when a gear change or gear began to spontaneously change. The transfer case of the UAZ should be checked if the adhesion of the wheels to the road has noticeably deteriorated, a hum began to appear, and a growing noise during its operation.
VIDEO
During the passage of MOT, the masters must check the system for oil leaks, the level of lubrication. All worn parts in the transmission system must be replaced with new ones. Also, diagnostics involves the implementation of lubrication of the axis of the levers, adjustment of the front rods.
Routine diagnostics in a professional auto repair shop allows you to accurately determine the existing nature of the problem with the box, to eliminate existing problems at an early stage.
As a rule, the need to replace the main components at the checkpoint arises with their natural wear and tear.
The main reason for oil leakage from the gearbox is the presence of an increased fuel level in the system. For gearboxes on UAZ, high-quality oil should be used. If the liquid is not of the proper quality, then this may cause characteristic noises from the side of the box. When the synchronizer or its parts are worn out, a difficult gear change is always noted. Pay attention to the details of the switching mechanism. When the teeth of the gears are deformed, self-switching of gears is often noted.
It is quite possible to carry out repair of the checkpoint on the UAZ 452 with your own hands. This requires:
a set of wrenches, including the wrenches needed to tighten the nuts;
screwdrivers;
hammer;
chisel;
pliers.
The vehicle must be on level ground. It is necessary to drain the oil from the two boxes by unscrewing the drain plugs. Next, the front seats, the hatch halves, the clutch release fork, the transverse frame, the gearshift levers from the boxes are removed.
VIDEO
The speedometer shaft, suspension mounts in the chassis, and brake levers are to be removed. As a result, the outlet to the clutch housing is opened. The box is fixed on it with fastening nuts, which must be unscrewed, then the UAZ gearbox is carefully extended together with the transfer case until the splined shaft comes out of the flywheel. The driver will need an assistant to remove the box.
Assembling the UAZ gearbox requires proper attention. When self-assembling, the driver may have difficulties with installing the input shaft into the clutch system. During this process, it is necessary to actively move the box so that the shaft falls into the splines.
As soon as the disassembly into separate component parts has taken place, the box must be rinsed in kerosene and dried. All component parts are checked for integrity. First of all, this applies to the crankcase, shafts. If the threads on the shafts are damaged, they must be replaced. The machine is considered dangerous to operate if the gears are chipped.
Thus, timely repair of the UAZ “loaf” checkpoint helps to extend the resource of the box.
Dismantling the gearshift mechanism SEQUENCING
Use a narrow slotted screwdriver to knock out the plugs of the gear shift rods.
Using the "17" key, unscrew the plug-plug of the retainer socket.
Using pliers, remove the safety wire of the bolts securing the forks to the rods ...
... and turn off the three bolts with a 10 key.
We knock out the fork rod of the 1st-2nd gear with a beard together with the plug.
We take out the plug and stem.
The blocker pin is located in the middle rod.
... take out the ball with a spring.
Using the "10" key, unscrew the three bolts securing the fuse cover.
We take out the ball with a spring (fuse holder).
Sinking the ball with a slotted screwdriver, insert the stem into the hole in the cover.
We put a fork on the stem, tapping on the end of the stem with a soft metal hammer, ...
... and fix it with a locking bolt, aligning the holes of the stem and the fork.
Install the plunger into the channel between the reverse gear fork and the III – IV gears.
Orient the oil deflector washer with a protrusion to the inner ring of the bearing.
ATTENTION The lever travel when engaging the first gear in a gearbox with synchronizers only in III-IV gears is 2.5 times greater than when engaging the second gear. Failure to engage the first gear causes rapid wear and destruction of the gears.
Assemble the gearshift mechanism for cars of the UAZ-31512 family in the following order:
Install the rubber O-ring (Fig. 114) into the selector shaft seal cover.
Rice. 114. Installing the O-ring of the shift shaft cover
Install the rubber O-ring into the hole under the selector lever shaft 23 (see Fig. 105).
Rice. 105. Gear shifting mechanism for cars of the UAZ-3741 family:
Install the clutch (fig. 115), thrust washer, thrust spring cup and spring on the shifting shaft. Insert the shaft into the side cover housing and install the gland cover with gasket, secure the cover with three bolts.
Video (click to play).
Rice. 115. Assembling the shaft of gear shifting
Install the selector lever assembly with the shaft (Fig. 116) into the cover housing so that the lever enters the groove in the shift clutch. Lock the lever with a pin, which is hammered in from the bottom.
Turn the side cover over with the machined flange up and insert the springs and balls of the III and IV gears and the reverse stem into the retainers using a mandrel (see Fig. 113).
Rice. 113. Device for assembling rods and clamps:
Install the reverse fork on the stem from the side opposite to the retainer, and after sinking the retainer ball (Fig. 117) into the cover body using a mandrel (see Fig. 113), set the stem to the neutral position. So sequentially collect all the rods (Fig. 118) and forks. Place the keycaps between the rods.
Rice. 117. Assembling the rod and reverse fork
Rice. 118. Assembling the rod and the shift fork of III and IV gears
Fix the forks to the rods with tapered bolts and cotter them with wire (fig. 119), which should not interfere with the movement of the forks. When attaching the forks, the shift clutch lever must be in the groove of the forks.
Rice. 119. Splinting with a wire of the bolts securing the forks:
Insert the ball and spring of the retainer into the hole in the rods of the 1st and 2nd gears and tighten the plug. At the same time, keep in mind that the spring of the stopper of the 1st and 2nd gears in the free state is longer than the other two springs of the stoppers of the rods.
Install six plugs into the end holes of the cover body, plug into the hole for the shift shaft and hammer them.
Install the selection and shift levers (Fig. 120) on the splines of the shafts and secure them with nuts and lock washers.
Rice. 120. Installation of external levers of selection and switching
The correct position of the levers is checked with the neutral position of the gears in the gearbox after installing the shift mechanism on the gearbox in accordance with Fig. 121.
Rice. 121. Position of the selection lever and the shift lever after installing the mechanism on the gearbox:
