In detail: gearbox vaz 2108 DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Remove dirt and wash the outside of the gearbox.
2. Place the transmission straight up.
3. Remove the six nuts securing the rear cover.
4. Remove the mounting bolt and.
5. ... remove the clutch cable bracket.
6. Gently hit the back cover with a rubber mallet.
Remove the gasket carefully, as an undamaged gasket can be re-installed during assembly.
7. Remove the rear cover from the Lada Samara gearbox housing.
8. Remove the gasket.
9. Engage 3rd or 4th gear.
10. Remove the 5th gear fork bolt and engage 5th gear.
To secure the shafts from turning, it is necessary to simultaneously engage the 5th gear and the 3rd or 4th gear. To engage 5th gear, move down the synchronizer clutch together with the fork (the fork fastening bolt must be unscrewed) so that the splines of the clutch mesh with the gear rim of the gear.
11. Make sure the shafts do not turn.
12. Loosen the nut on the output shaft.
13. Unscrew the nut on the output shaft.
The nuts on the shafts are tightened with a high torque, so you need to apply a lot of effort to loosen.
14. Unlock the nut on the input shaft.
15. Unscrew the nut on the input shaft.
Remove the synchronizer carefully. Make sure that the synchroniser sleeve does not come off the hub: the spring-loaded synchroniser locking balls may crumble.
16. Use screwdrivers to hook the 5th gear synchronizer of the VAZ 2109 onto the hub.
17. ... and remove it together with the plug. Remove the plug from the coupling.
18. Remove the 5th gear synchroniser locking ring.
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19. Use a screwdriver to hook up the 5th gear driven gear.
20. ... and remove it from the secondary shaft of the samara fret.
21. Remove the needle bearing thrust washer.
22. Remove the 5th gear needle bearing.
23. Use a screwdriver to hook up the 5th gear drive gear.
24. ... and remove it from the input shaft.
25. Use an impact screwdriver to remove the four screws holding the bearing plate.
26... Remove the bearing plate.
27. Pick up with screwdrivers and remove the 5th gear needle bearing sleeve of the VAZ 21099 from the secondary shaft.
28. Remove the thrust washer from the pinion shaft.
29. Remove the input shaft bearing retaining ring. To do this, press the retaining ring against the bearing ring with one screwdriver, and remove the ring from the groove with the other screwdriver.
30. Remove the pinion shaft bearing retaining ring in the same way.
31. Unscrew the retainer cap.
32. Carefully remove the retainer ball with spring. Remove two more clips in the same way.
33. Remove the two mounting bolts and.
34. ... remove the rear support of the power unit VAZ 2109.
35. Unscrew the reverse lock plug. Tilt the box and remove the retainer ball with spring.
36. Remove the 12 nuts and the bolt securing the gearbox housing to the clutch housing.
37. Using a large screwdriver, carefully separate the clutch housing and the lada satellite.
There are three places between the crankcases where you can insert a screwdriver to avoid damaging the gasket. Insert a screwdriver into these slots one by one and gently wiggle until the crankcases separate.
38. Remove the transmission case.
39. Remove the bolt securing the 1st and 2nd shift forks.
40. Lift the rod and remove it together with the shift forks for 1st and 2nd gears.
41. Remove the 3rd and 4th shift fork mounting bolt.
42. Disengage the stem head from the lever.
43. ... and remove it together with the plug.
44. Turn the 5th gear fork rod of the VAZ 2108, removing its head from the lever. Remove the stem.
45. Remove the retaining ring.
46. Remove the reverse gear fork.
47. Remove the reverse gear with the axle.
48. Slightly shaking, remove the input and output shafts at the same time.
When both gearbox shafts are removed, the inner rings of the front bearings remain on the shafts.
49. Take out the driven gear wheel of the final drive together with the differential.
50. Remove the three bolts securing the gearshift mechanism.
51. Remove the gearshift mechanism.
52. Carefully remove the gasket.
Do not damage the gasket when removing. An undamaged gasket can be reused when assembling the gearbox.
53. Press the pinion shaft front bearing out of the clutch housing. To do this, you can use the puller foot or similar tool.
Press out the front input shaft bearings and the oil seal only when replacing them or replacing the clutch housing.
54. Press out the oil seal to replace the input shaft front bearing.
It is impossible to press out the input shaft oil seal without damaging it. Therefore, when replacing the input shaft bearing, you will need a new oil seal.
55. Press the bearing into the crankcase by applying force to the outer ring of the bearing.
56. Remove the magnet from the clutch housing.
57. Unscrew the nut that secures the speedometer drive housing.
58. Hook up the housing with a screwdriver.
59. ... and remove the housing from the driven gear of the speedometer drive.
If, during operation, traces of oil leakage through the hole for the speedometer drive were noticed, replace the rubber O-ring on the drive housing.
60. Remove the driven gear with the speedometer drive shaft from the housing.
61. Push the O-ring out of the speedometer drive housing.
62. Unscrew the reverse light switch from the gearbox housing.
63. Slide the protective cover for the shift link joint from the flange on the transmission.
64. Remove the opposite edge of the protective boot from the hinge flange.
65. Remove the bolt securing the hinge to the stem.
66. ... and remove the joint from the stem.
67... Remove the protective cover from the stem.
68. Remove the bolt securing the lever to the shift rod inside the clutch housing.
69. Remove the lever and rod from the clutch housing.
70. If, during operation, traces of oil leakage were noticed through the hole in the clutch housing under the gear shift rod, replace the rod oil seal.
We clean it from dirt and rinse the gearbox outside.
In the same way, remove the circlip from the secondary shaft bearing.
You can replace the hinge of the gear selector shaft on the gearbox installed on the vehicle. For clarity, we carry out this operation on the removed stock.
In the same way, we replace the outer bearing ring of the input shaft.
In the same way, we knock out the oil seal and the outer ring of the differential bearing from the gearbox housing. We take out the adjusting ring.
We clamp the input shaft in a vice with soft metal pads.
To disassemble the output shaft, we support the main gear drive gear on a wooden stand.
We insert a chisel or a powerful screwdriver into the gap between the end of the drive gear and the inner ring of the front bearing.
We clamp the secondary shaft in a vice with soft metal pads.
We clamp the driven gear of the final drive in a vice with soft jaws.
Turning, we take out the drive gears (semi-axial) from the box.
Using pliers, remove the retaining ring from the axis of the satellites.
We take out the satellite axis and satellites from the box.
To remove the differential bearings, we clamp the box in a vice.
After inserting a chisel into the gap between the end face of the bearing inner ring and the differential box, we hit the chisel and move the bearing back.
By inserting the puller paws into the gap formed,
We clean it from dirt and rinse the gearbox outside.
In the same way, remove the circlip from the secondary shaft bearing.
You can replace the hinge of the gear selector shaft on the gearbox installed on the vehicle.For clarity, we carry out this operation on the removed rod.
In the same way, we replace the outer bearing ring of the input shaft.
In the same way, we knock out the oil seal and the outer ring of the differential bearing from the gearbox housing. We take out the adjusting ring.
We clamp the input shaft in a vice with soft metal pads.
To disassemble the output shaft, we support the main gear drive gear on a wooden stand.
We insert a chisel or a powerful screwdriver into the gap between the end of the drive gear and the inner ring of the front bearing.
We clamp the secondary shaft in a vice with soft metal pads.
We clamp the driven gear of the final drive in a vice with soft jaws.
To remove the differential bearings, we clamp the box in a vice.
GENERAL INFORMATION
Before removing the gearbox, disconnect the wire from the “-” terminal of the storage battery, and also drain the oil from the gearbox.
It is recommended to remove the gearbox with two people.
PERFORMANCE ORDER
1. Unscrew the mounting bolts and remove the crankcase protection.
2. Remove the bolt and disconnect the ground wire from the clutch housing.
3. Loosen the nuts on the clutch cable end.
4. Remove the cable end from the clutch lever.
5. Disconnect the block with the wire from the terminal of the starter traction relay.
6. Unscrew the fastening nut and disconnect the wire from the contact bolt of the starter traction relay.
7... Unscrew the three nuts (the third on the other side of the starter) fastening and remove the starter.
8. Loosen the clamp and disconnect the shift drive rod from the hinge end
9. Unscrew the fastening nut and disconnect the cable from the speedometer drive.
10. Disconnect the block with the wire from the reversing light switch.
11. Loosen the nut fastening the brace to the suspension arm.
12. Unscrew the nut securing the brace to the bracket or three bolts securing the bracket to the body and spread the left and right braces to the sides.
13. Remove the cotter pin nut securing the ball joint of the steering link to the pivot arm.
14. Remove the tie rod ball joint retaining nut.
15. Using a puller, press the tie rod ball joint pin out of the strut pivot arm.
16. Remove the two bolts and disconnect the suspension arm ball joint from the steering knuckle
17. Press out the shank of one of the inner CV joints of the front wheel drive with a pry bar from the gearbox and take it to the side.
18. Insert a technological plug instead (for example, an old inner CV joint). Then disconnect the second CV joint.
19... Remove the three mounting bolts and remove the clutch housing shield.
20. Loosen the three bolts and nuts securing the clutch housing to the cylinder block.
21. Place suitable wooden support blocks on the fender flanges in the area of the A-pillar supports and place an engine support block on them. The bar must only rest on the wing flanges!
22. Attach the engine to the lifting eye with a long bolt with a hook. You can also use sturdy rope or wire to do this. (For the convenience of photography, the hood is removed).
23. Remove the two nuts securing the rear support of the power unit to the body.
24. Unscrew the nut and remove the bolt of the left support of the power unit.
25. Unscrew the three nuts securing the left support of the power unit to the transmission and remove the support.
26. Finally, remove the three bolts and the nut (on the other side of the transmission). When removing the transmission, first move it horizontally away from the engine to disengage the input shaft from the clutch. Do not damage the clutch diaphragm spring petals when removing.
After the box is removed from the car, you can start disassembling it. Dismantling the gearbox on a VAZ 21099 car is necessary to perform various repairs to replace the failed system elements. To carry out the work, prepare a standard set of tools and perform the following sequence of actions:
- We put the box in a vertical position and proceed to disassembly. First of all, we need to remove the back cover by unscrewing the six bolts of its fastening. Then we unscrew the bolt and remove the clutch cable bracket.
- By applying light blows to the lid with a hammer, remove it from the studs, and then remove the sealing gasket located between the lid and the box body.
- Engage the third or fourth gear, then unscrew the bolt securing the fifth gear shift fork and then engage it by moving the clutch so that the splines mesh with the gear.
- Now, when the gears mesh with each other and the shafts, as a result, do not turn, we unscrew the secondary shaft nut, having previously unlocked it. It is advisable to unscrew this nut and the subsequent ones using a socket head so as not to damage the edges.
- Next, unscrew the input shaft nut. Then, prying the fifth gear synchronizer with two flat screwdrivers, remove it together with the plug. The synchronizer itself must be removed carefully so that the clutch with spring-loaded balls does not come out and they do not crumble.
- Now we remove the synchronizer blocking ring and after it, prying it with two screwdrivers, remove the driven gear of the secondary shaft.
- A needle bearing will be located under the gear, it must be removed together with the thrust washer.
- Next, remove the fifth gear drive gear by gently prying it with a screwdriver.
- Using an impact screwdriver, unscrew the four screws securing the clamping plate of the shaft bearings and remove it.
- Remove the needle bearing sleeve and the thrust washer located under it from the secondary shaft.
- We also use screwdrivers to remove the retaining rings of the bearings of the primary and secondary shafts.
- There are three retainer plugs on the side of the case. Using a spanner wrench, unscrew them one by one and carefully remove the ball and spring.
- The rear engine support is attached to the gearbox with two bolts, we need to remove it by unscrewing the mounting bolts.
- Next to the reversing light switch, there is a reverse speed detent plug. We unscrew the cork and then slightly tilt the box, remove the spring and the ball from the hole.
- Unscrew the twelve nuts of the bolts securing the clutch housing to the box body.
- Now you can separate the crankcase. To do this, use a screwdriver, the end of which is inserted into special slots located at the junction of the crankcases in three places.
- Between them there will be a sealing gasket, which we remove and replace with a new one during subsequent assembly, since it is not suitable for reuse.
- Next, we need to remove the stock with the first and second gear shift forks. To do this, unscrew the bolt of its fastening and lift it slightly, remove it.
- In the same way, we unscrew the bolt securing the rod of the third and fourth gears and removing the lever from engagement with the head of the rod, remove it.
- We immediately remove the fifth gear shift fork.
- Using pliers, remove the retaining ring and remove the reverse gear fork.
- Remove the reverse gear. Then, with both hands, we simultaneously remove the secondary and primary shafts. Note that when removing the shafts, the bearing inner races remain on the shafts.
- Remove the driven main gear together with the differential. Then we unscrew the three bolts securing the gearshift mechanism and remove it.
- Remove the bearings of the input and output shafts. Use a suitable paddle to press out the pinion shaft bearing. To remove the input shaft bearing, the oil seal must first be pressed in.
- There is a magnet in the clutch housing, to collect metal shavings, pull it out and clean it.
- Disassemble the speedometer drive housing.
- Unscrew the reversing light switch from the housing.
- Disassemble and remove the shift joint.
This completes the repair work on the complete disassembly of the gearbox on the VAZ 21099 car. Make the necessary repairs, and then carry out the assembly in the reverse order, taking into account the following nuances.
It is very easy to remove the gearbox from the VAZ 2108 to 2115 at home, on these machines the principle of removing and installing the gearbox is the same, for this you do not have to remove the engine. I will explain the easiest way to remove the gearbox, without a viewing hole. This method of removing the gearbox can be used even on the road, and in any place where there is no special equipment for repairing the machine.
Usually the gearbox has to be removed in order to change the clutch disc, release roller, or basket. Also, the gearbox has to be removed to repair the gearbox itself.
If you remove and install the gearbox yourself, then consider that you have earned money that you would have to give to the master.
If you have basic knowledge of the device of the car, then you can easily remove it yourself and put the box without overpaying for this work to the master, saving good money.
The first thing to do when removing the box is to drain the oil from it, the oil drain plug is under the left grenade (from the driver's side), and the bolt filler plug is on the same side but next to the grenade. Disconnect any one terminal from the battery, just in case.
Next, we unscrew the clutch cable, unscrew and remove the starter, the wires from the starter can not be unscrewed, but simply put the starter to the side in the engine compartment, but you can also not unscrew the starter, but simply unscrew the wires from it, but this will make the box more difficult during installation.
Photo. Top view, you can see the removed starter, it lies on the battery, and the unwound box.
We unscrew the box itself from the engine, it is held by three bolts and one nut, two bolts on top, and one bolt and nut on the bottom, we also unscrew the boot (it is at the bottom of the box and covers the flywheel from dirt).
Photo. The box is unscrewed, the arrow shows the place of the lower bolt, and on the other side you need to unscrew the nut. You can also put a stump or a jack under the engine, but usually the engine does not fall and it keeps perfectly on one pillow and a muffler. Also shown is a twisted crab with a pull.
We unscrew the curtain, and two pillows from the box, it is better to unscrew the pillows from the box and leave them screwed to the body of the car, but you can also completely remove them so that they do not interfere at all when removing and installing the box. Also, do not forget to unscrew the ground wires and remove the plug from the reverse speed frog, and the speedometer cable.
Photo. The arrows show the removed curtain, and the unscrewed pillow.
So the box is completely untwisted, it only remains to remove it, but for this you need to raise the driver's side with a jack (be sure to insure and place a stump or a stack of bricks next to the jack so that the car does not accidentally fall off the jack) remove the wheel and unscrew the two bolts from the ball.
It remains only to pull the hub towards you, and here, for good luck, if the right grenade jumps off, the box will come down and fall to the bottom (if you remove the box on the asphalt, then so that the box does not hit the asphalt, you can put a bunch of rags or a whole small cardboard box, this will soften the blow, and if on the ground then you can not put anything on).
Photo. The arrow shows the bolt on the ball, which must be unscrewed.
If the left grenade pops out, then the right one can be ripped off with a nail puller or a pry bar, and just pull the box towards you, it will come off easily.
Photo. Removed box, but left hand grenade not removed. The arrow shows the right grenade, put a piece of rag or cardboard under it so as not to get dirty.
If the purpose of removing the gearbox is to change the clutch disc or basket, then the grenade can not be removed, but simply move the box aside and it is easy to change everything. As a mandrel for centering the clutch disc, the input shaft from the VAZ 2101 is excellent, in short, from any classic.
And if you need to repair the box, then the grenade can be removed with a nail gun or a pry bar. But it happens that the grenade sits very tightly in the box, does not lend itself to removal with a nail puller or matting, then you have to point a longer pipe on the grenade and try to knock it out with a heavy hammer or a small sledgehammer.
Photo. Removing a grenade with a nail puller.
They took off the box easily, but it is advisable to put it together, one pulls the box up through the rope through the top, and the other helps from the bottom and immediately inserts the right grenade into place. I almost forgot, when you knock down the grenades, on the left side, insert a piece of wood with a diameter slightly less than the grenade shaft so that the satellites do not accidentally shift, if the satellites move, the grenades will no longer be in place, then you will have to disassemble the box for their correct installation.
If you think that it took a long time, then you are mistaken, it took 20 minutes to remove the box, even in the cold you will not freeze during this time, and 25 minutes to set, but the truth here it all depends on skill. I also had to lie in the snow for only a minute, one pulls from above and quickly directs from the bottom. In summer it's not a problem at all, it's warm and you don't have to rush.
You can move the gearbox away without removing it, for this, unscrew the two upper bolts, screw in long studs, along which you can move the gearbox without removing it. But I don't like this repair option, since there are a lot of problems and the complexity of replacing the clutch disc or basket increases. I advise you to remove the gearbox, replacing the clutch disc is very simple, and installing the gearbox on the engine is not very difficult if there is an assistant.
In the VAZ-2109, it may be necessary to repair the gearbox, and the owners of domestic cars carry out repair work with their own hands, and all thanks to the mechanics on the basis of which the vehicle works.
At the service station, car diagnostics are carried out using professional equipment, this procedure costs a lot of money. Therefore, drivers just need to learn how to conduct an independent inspection, it will allow you to understand what is the cause of the VAZ-2109 malfunctions, and will save you money.
How the checkpoint malfunction manifests itself:
- When stopping, periodically look under the vehicle for oil leaks. If a leak is present, it may be necessary to replace the oil seal located in the transmission.
- Watch for changes in the oil level in the VAZ-2109 engine. Experts say that the oil volume should be checked at least annually, or more often, especially if the machine is actively used. Focus on checking the oil every 20,000 km.
- When changing gears, pay attention to the smooth movement of the shift lever. If jerks and jams occur, then it's time to think about repairing the gearbox in the VAZ-2109.
There can be many reasons for the appearance of a gearbox malfunction in the VAZ-2109. First, decide what are the signs of the breakdown. If difficulties arise when switching speeds, malfunctions may be as follows:
- Not enough or too little lubricant mixture.
- Seized shift shaft.
- The integrity of the gearbox gears is broken.
- A foreign object has accidentally fallen into the gearbox.
- A part called a synchronizer slider has worn out and cannot be repaired anymore.
If a gear is knocked out while the vehicle is in motion or the gear lever returns to neutral, the reasons are indicated in the following list:
- The defect indicates a marriage during the production of a VAZ-2109 unit. That is why, when buying a car, you need to carefully monitor the correct operation of all devices, do not hesitate to ask the seller tricky questions, in the end, you pay. Car warranty repair also does not mean that the part will eventually be repaired.
- The teeth of the gears are worn out, then the ring with the teeth becomes similar to a cone and the destruction of the fixation of the gears becomes obvious.
- If the condition of the VAZ-2109 gearbox shaft, gears or bearings leaves much to be desired, then the bearing leaves its intended place or shifts slightly to the side.
Car enthusiasts on the forums dedicated to the maintenance and repair of the VAZ-2109 indicate additional defects and malfunctions of the auto gearbox:
- Noises appear, indicating wear of bearings and gears, the result of such a malfunction may be the lack of adequate adhesion of the components. The damage most likely affected the synchronizer or the box structure. Knocking may be added to the noise. Driving such a car is dangerous for the health and life of the driver and passengers.
- If you notice oily stains under the vehicle, it should be assumed that the transmission is leaking. Why does this malfunction occur? If the crankcase cover is loose or it is time to replace the stuffing box shaft. You can fix the problems with your own hands, without resorting to the expensive services of service station specialists.
- Overheating of the gearbox is another unpleasant factor, which means that too little oil has been filled.
VAZ-2109 maintenance and repair of the gearbox sooner or later have to be done by every owner of a domestic car.
To repair the checkpoint with your own hands, you need to stock up on the necessary set of tools in advance:
- 2 types of hammers, one of which is made of rubber and the other is normal;
- screwdrivers with different tips;
- mark;
- set of cap heads;
- impact screwdriver;
- wrench to help remove retainer rings.
During the repair of the checkpoint in the VAZ-2109, you may encounter the problem of sticking of some components, you still continue to follow the step-by-step instructions, and the desired result will not take long to arrive:
Before assembling the gearbox on the VAZ-2109, a bulkhead of parts must be carried out for defects that require elimination:
- In what condition the bearings are, if they are badly worn out, this will lead to the appearance of a hum.
- Inspect the synchronizer and the material sealing washer - wear causes poor gear shifting.
- Rings and synchronizers with notches and deep chips require replacement.
- Measure the gap between the gears and the locking rings, ideally it should not exceed 0.6 mm.
When the parts that were completely worn out are replaced with new ones, it remains to assemble the gearbox. But before that, thoroughly rinse all parts and remember the following requirements:
- Before laying the gaskets, apply an even layer of lithol on them. The substance guarantees the displacement of the gaskets during assembly.
- When starting to press in the oil seals, focus on the working edge from the inside, at this time the metal cage should be placed outside.
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VAZ 2109 and 21099 cars are equipped with four-speed and five-speed manual transmissions. All gears, except for the rear, are equipped with synchronizers. Also, the box is combined with differentials.
It is extremely important to monitor the serviceability of the checkpoint, and if signs of damage are found, immediately eliminate them. With your own hands or with the help of a car service - this is your personal decision.
The inner structure of the box
To understand the essence of the repair, disassembly and assembly of the gearbox, the first step is to get acquainted with its device. In the case of the VAZ 2109, the box device is as follows:
- A block of driving gears is located on the input shaft, which are in constant mesh with the driven gears of the gears when moving forward;
- The second shaft has driven gears with needle bearings. There is also a pair of synchronizers;
- The output shaft is created in conjunction with the main gear drive gear;
- The driven gear of the main gear is attached to the flange of the two-satellite differential box;
- Differential bearings are always mounted with an interference fit, which is adjusted by selecting rings of different thicknesses.
Repair of the gearbox largely depends on the nature and type of malfunction. There are several options for the breakdown of this unit, in each of which appropriate actions should be taken to eliminate them.
Malfunction
Possible reasons
What do we have to do
Gear shifting with difficulty
- The clutch is not fully squeezed out;
- The thrust, which controls the gearshift mechanism, is deformed;
- The integrity of the jet thrust has been compromised;
- The fastening of the hinge or rod, which selects the gear, is loose;
- The speed change drive is incorrectly adjusted;
- The plastic components of the gear shift actuator are broken
- Try to straighten the traction. If this is not possible, replace them;
- Tighten the fastening screws more tightly;
- Adjust the gearshift drive;
- Replace damaged components
There is a spontaneous shutdown of gears
- The ends of the synchronizer teeth on the gear and coupling are damaged or worn out;
- Cracks have appeared, the rubber on the rear supports has peeled off;
- Incorrectly adjusted the gearshift drive;
- The thrust guard has been tightened incorrectly, due to which the gear is not fully engaged
- Replace worn out, deformed elements;
- Correct the position of the casing (cover) of the traction;
- Adjust the drive
Transmissions turn on with noise, crackling
- The clutch is not completely disengaged;
- The blocking ring of the gear synchronizer is worn out.
There is an oil leak from the gearbox
- Worn input shaft seal; Worn stem
- speed selection;
- Breakage of the speedometer drive roller seal;
- The fastening of the cover on the gearbox or crankcase is loose;
- The sealant under the gearbox cover is damaged;
- The fastening of the closure of the drain hole is loose
- Replace gaskets, use new sealant and gaskets;
- Tighten all available fasteners;
- Check the condition of the drain plug
