Gearbox vaz 4 mortar DIY repair

VAZ 2101 gearbox diagram: 1 - reverse gear fork; 2 - pull-back spring of the gear lever; 3 - guide cup of the lever; 4 - ball bearing of the lever; 5 - gear shift lever; 6 - spherical washer; 7 - lever spring; 8 - retaining ring; 9 - damper locking sleeve; 10 - elastic bushings of the damper; 11 - damper distance sleeve; 12 - persistent damper pad; 13 - rod of the gear shift lever; 14 - plug for engaging the third and fourth gears; 15 - plug for switching on the first and second gears; 16 - rod of the plug for engaging the first and second gears; 17 - rod of the plug for engaging the third and fourth gears; 18 - rod of the reverse gear inclusion fork; 19 - blocking crackers; 20 - retainer cover; 21 - bushing; 22 - retainer spring; 23 - retainer ball; 24 - rear cover of the transmission; 25 - VAZ 2101 reversing light switch; 26 - distance sleeve of the reverse fork rod.

The device of the primary shaft VAZ 2101: 1 - retaining ring; 2 - spring washer; 3 - bearing; 4 - primary shaft; 5 - synchronizer spring; 6 - blocking ring of the synchronizer; 7 - retaining ring; 8 - bearing.

The device of the secondary shaft VAZ 2101: 1 - retaining ring; 2 - spring washer; 3 - synchronizer hub; 4 - synchronizer clutch; 5 - retaining ring; 6 - blocking ring of the synchronizer; 7 - synchronizer spring; 8 - washer; 9 - gear wheel of III transfer; 10 - secondary shaft; 11 - gear wheel of II transfer; 12 - washer; 13 - synchronizer spring; 14 - blocking ring; 15 - retaining ring; 16 - synchronizer hub; 17 - synchronizer clutch; 18 - retaining ring; 19 - blocking ring of the synchronizer; 20 - synchronizer spring; 21 - washer; 22 - gear wheel of 1st transfer; 23 - bushing of the gear wheel of the 1st transfer; 24 - bearing; 25 - reverse gears; 26 - spring washer; 27 - retaining ring; 28 - speedometer drive gear; 29 - rear bearing; 30 - stuffing box; 31 - flexible coupling flange; 32 - nut; 33 - sealant; 34 - centering ring; 35 - retaining ring.

Gear lever device VAZ 2101: 1 - pull-back spring bolt; 2 - washer; 3 - pull-back spring; 4 - gasket; 5 - guiding cup; 6 - gasket; 7 - washer; 8 - a limiting bolt; 9 - gear shift lever; 10 - ball bearing; 11 - spherical washer; 12 - spring; 13 - support washer; 14 - retaining ring; 15 - gasket; 16 - flange; 17 - spring washer; 18 - nut; 19 - cuff; 20 - inner cover; 21 - lever rod; 22 - handle; 23 - persistent pillow; 24 - elastic sleeve; 25 - distance sleeve; 26 - elastic bushing; 27 - locking sleeve.

To replace parts of the VAZ 2101 gearbox, it must be partially or completely disassembled, for this follow these instructions: Wash the gearbox and install it on the stand. Drain the oil and remove the gearbox housing with the gasket. Remove the clutch release drive fork, and from the guide sleeve of the front cover of the gearbox - the clutch assembly with bearing and connecting spring. Remove the clutch housing (bell) with the gasket and the front cover of the transmission together with the oil seal and the spring washer. Remove the VAZ 2101 speedometer drive with a gasket and the reversing lamp switch, being careful not to deform its case. Remove the third and fourth gear shift fork securing bolt. Install the retainer 41.7816.4068 on the input shaft or engage two gears at the same time. This will prevent the input, output and countershaft from turning and allow subsequent disassembly operations to be carried out.

Remove the retaining ring from the end of the output shaft of the transmission

After bending the lock washer, back off the nut a few turns to move the elastic coupling centering ring and re-tighten the nut. With a pusher with a puller, remove from the end of the output shaft the centering ring of the elastic coupling of the propeller shaft

Remove the elastic coupling centering ring seal from the end of the output shaft, unscrew the nut and remove the elastic coupling flange with a puller. Remove the rear cover of the gearbox by unscrewing the nuts of its fastening and the screw for limiting the lateral travel of the lever, and also moving the gearshift lever to the left to free it from the gearshift rods. Remove the rear bearing from the output shaft. Remove the speedometer drive pinion. Remove the fork with a distance sleeve from the reverse gear rod, and remove the intermediate reverse gear from the axle

Remove the retaining ring of the reverse drive gear VAZ 2101 from the intermediate shaft; remove the gear and spring washer. Remove the reverse driven gear retaining ring from the output shaft by pressing the spring washer with a mandrel to relieve stress on the retaining ring. Remove the reverse driven gear and spring washer. Using curly mandrels such as screwdrivers and rod punches, remove the front and rear intermediate shaft bearings from the gearbox housing. On the inner rings of the double-row front bearing, make marks along which these rings are installed in their original places in the outer ring of the bearing

Remove the intermediate shaft from the gearbox housing by tilting it as shown in the illustration. Remove the stem retainer cover along with the gasket, remove the retainer springs and balls. Remove the reverse gear rod, the third and fourth gear shift fork from the gearbox housing. Unscrew the bolt securing the forks of the first and second gears, remove the stem and forks. Pulling out the rods, remove the three locking pieces at the same time.

Unscrew the screws securing the intermediate bearing of the secondary shaft with a drill-screwdriver and remove the locking plate of the intermediate bearing of the secondary shaft and the axis of the intermediate reverse gear

Using mandrels, remove the input shaft together with the bearing and the synchronizer ring and remove the needle bearing from the front end of the output shaft

Knock out the secondary shaft from the VAZ 2101 intermediate bearing, remove the intermediate bearing and, tilting, as shown in the figure, remove the secondary shaft complete with gears, couplings and synchronizer rings from the crankcase. Remove the third and fourth gear synchroniser sleeve from the shaft.

For disassembling the input shaft VAZ 2101 proceed as follows: Remove the circlip, the circlip and the synchroniser spring. Install the shaft on the press and, squeezing the spring washer with a mandrel, remove the retaining ring, then the spring washer and bearing.

For disassembling the secondary shaft of the VAZ 2101 gearbox Proceed as follows: Remove the first gear with a sleeve from the rear side of the shaft, the hub with the sliding clutch for switching the first and second gears, the second gear together with the synchronizer blocking ring

Install the secondary shaft with the mandrel on the press, place the support half rings under the third gear gear, and, pressing the mandrel on the spring washer, remove the circlip 2, then the spring washer, the hub of the sliding clutch of the third and fourth gears and the third gear.

For disassembling the gear lever VAZ 2101 and the rear cover, remove the collar, lever cover, then the retaining ring, washer, spring and spherical washer. Unscrew the nuts securing the flange, disconnect the arm pull-back spring from the bolt eyelet and remove the arm together with the flange, support and cup.

Repair and assembly of the VAZ 2101 gearbox is carried out in the reverse order of dismantling, taking into account the replacement of old defective parts with new ones. After installing the gearbox on the VAZ 2101, be sure to fill in the gear oil!

When there are problems with the gearbox, it must be addressed immediately. If you start this process, you can lose the possibility of repairing the gearbox, and you will need to directly replace it.

DIY VAZ 2106 gearbox repair

Attention. The gearbox consists of a large number of parts, many of them are similar, therefore, to facilitate assembly, the parts should be laid out on sheets of paper in order and be sure to sign each one.

1. Drain the oil from the gearbox.

2. Remove the gearbox.

3. Remove the clutch release drive plug and the clutch release bearing.

4. Thoroughly clean it from dirt, wash the gearbox housing with a brush and hot water and detergent from the outside and place it on the workbench with the clutch housing down.

5. Use two screwdrivers to separate the sectors of the spacer sleeve and ...

6.… remove it and the rubber bushing of the damper.

7. Remove the flexible coupling and flange from the gearbox output shaft.

8. Using the "13" head, unscrew the two support fastening nuts.

10. Using the "10" head, unscrew the nut that secures the speedometer drive ...

11. ... and remove the speedometer drive.

12. Using the "22" key, turn off the reverse light switch ...

14. Using the "13" key, turn off the stop for shifting the gear shift lever.

15. Using the "13" head, unscrew the two nuts securing the bracket.

16. Remove the bracket and take out the square head bolt.

17. Using the "13" head, unscrew the remaining nuts securing the rear cover of the gearbox.

18. Remove the rear cover by moving the shift lever to the right to free it from the gear shift rods.

19. Carefully, trying not to damage, remove the back cover gasket.

20. Remove the rear bearing.

21. Remove the drive gear of the speedometer and its retainer - a steel ball.

22. Remove the reverse gear and reverse intermediate gear.

23. Remove the distance sleeve from the reverse gear rod.

24. With a puller, remove the retaining ring from the intermediate shaft.

25. Remove the reverse drive gear and spring washer.

26. With a puller, remove the retaining ring from the secondary shaft.

27. Remove the driven reverse gear and spring washer.

28. Using an impact screwdriver, unscrew the four screws securing the bearing lock plate and the axis of the intermediate reverse gear.

29. Remove the locking plate.

30. Take out the axis of the intermediate reverse gear.

31. Using the “10” head, unscrew ten nuts securing the bottom cover.

32. Remove the cover. We put the gearbox on its side.

33. Using the "13" head, unscrew one nut, ...

34. ... and the head "17" - six nuts securing the clutch housing to the gearbox.

35. Disconnect the crankcases and remove the gasket.

36. Using the "13" head, unscrew the two bolts securing the cover of the rod retainers.

37. Remove the cover and remove three springs and three balls from the holes.

38. Take out the rod of the reverse engagement fork.

39. Using the "10" head, unscrew the bolt securing the plug for engaging 1st and 2nd gears.

40. We take out the rods, at the same time removing the blocking crackers.

41. We take out the rod of the plug of inclusion of the 1st and 2nd gears.

42. Using the “10” head, unscrew the bolt securing the plug for engaging the III and IV gears.

43. We take out the rod of the plug of inclusion of III and IV gears.

44. By clicking on the couplings, we turn on two gears at once and with the key "19" unscrew the bolt securing the front bearing of the intermediate shaft.

45. Prying the retaining ring with two screwdrivers, take out the front bearing of the intermediate shaft.

46. ​​We push out the rear bearing of the intermediate shaft.

47. Having tilted, take out the intermediate shaft from the gearbox housing.

48. We take out two gear shift forks.

49. Prying with a screwdriver, take out the input shaft assembly with the bearing and the synchronizer ring.

50. Remove the needle bearing from the secondary shaft.

51. Prying with a screwdriver, remove the key from the back of the secondary shaft.

52. Prying off with two screwdrivers, remove the secondary shaft rear bearing.

53. We take out the secondary shaft from the gearbox housing.

54. Vertically install the secondary shaft, clamping it in a vice through cardboard spacers. Remove the synchronizer sleeve for III and IV gears.

55. Remove the retaining ring with a puller ...

56.... and remove the synchroniser hub and spring washer.

57. Prying off with a screwdriver, remove the retaining ring, as well as the locking ring and the synchronizer spring.

58. We remove the gear wheel of the III transfer.

59. Leaning the gear wheel of the 1st gear on a hard base, knock out the secondary shaft with a hammer through a spacer made of soft metal ...

60. ... and remove from it the II gear assembly, the synchronizer coupling for the 1st and 2nd gears, the synchronizer hub, the 1st gear assembly and the 1st gear sleeve.

61. Elements of synchronizers I, II and IV (on the input shaft) gears are disassembled similarly to the synchronizer of III gear.

62. To remove the input shaft bearing with a puller, unclench the retaining ring ...

63. ... and remove it together with the spring washer.

64. Leaning the bearing on a rigid base, knock out the input shaft with a hammer through a drift from soft metal.

65. To remove the gear shift lever from the rear cover of the gearbox housing, disconnect the return spring from the lever.

66. Using the "10" wrench, unscrew the three nuts securing the ball joint of the lever and ...

67.… remove the lever from the studs.

68. To replace the cuff of the drive (primary) shaft, we knock out the cuff with a punch through the hole in the front cover of the gearbox and ...

We thoroughly wash all parts in kerosene or diesel fuel and inspect them. The teeth of gears and couplings should be free of chips, scoring, fatigue chipping and noticeable wear. The surfaces of shafts, axles and shift rods must be completely smooth, free from scoring, pits and severe wear. There should be no cracks or nicks on the crankcase, and there should be no wear or traces of turning in the bearing bores. Corrosion and traces of crushing and galling are unacceptable on the shaft splines. Minor damage can be repaired with fine sandpaper followed by polishing, but it is better to replace damaged parts with new ones.

All rolling bearings, both ball and roller, must be in perfect condition, their radial play must not exceed 0.05 mm, any defects on the tracks and rolling elements are unacceptable. Separators should not have breaks, touching rings and melting (for plastic ones). In general, if the "mileage" of the box exceeds 120 thousand km and the unit is being repaired with disassembly, it is better to replace all bearings with new ones, regardless of their condition, especially if severe damage to gears and gear clutches was noticed. We replace the cuffs with new ones in any case. When assembling, we lubricate all the parts of the box, incl. the bearing seats and the bearings themselves with transmission oil, the joints of the crankcase and covers are covered with a thin layer of oil-resistant sealant, and the parts of the switching mechanism are coated with SHRUS-4 grease.

We assemble the gearbox in the reverse order of disassembly. The spring of the reversing fork rod retainer is different from others in stiffness and has a black coating. Before installation, the working surface of the cuffs is coated with a thin layer of Litol-24 grease. We tighten the bolt of the intermediate shaft bearing clamping washer with a torque of 8.1–10.0 kgf.m. We tighten the nut of the rear end of the secondary shaft with a torque of 6.8–8.4 kgf.m.

I bring to your attention an article on repairing a 5-speed gearbox of a new design (the so-called "torn package")
Some of the photos of the process will be repeated, please do not kick too much, the photos were mainly taken during assembly, since the checkpoint and parts were washed, and the camera remained clean :).
What additional tool is required? Input shaft retainer (I made from an old clutch disc hub), a high “30” head for loosening the output shaft nut, a pair of powerful screwdrivers, a circlip remover, an impact screwdriver with a hammer, and ideally a torque wrench.

It is unlikely that anyone will have a special stand for repairing the checkpoint at hand, in principle, you can sort it out on the table, and you can also gently clamp it in a vice.
So, we drain the oil from the gearbox, remove the gearbox from the car, remove the elastic coupling, the rear cushion of the gearbox along with the traverse and take out the clutch fork with the boot and the clutch release.
Thoroughly clean the gearbox from dirt using a metal brush, a suitable tool such as a screwdriver, ideally blow it through with a compressor.

Although the oil is drained, there is still a little oil left in the gearbox, so we take this fact into account when disassembling it.
Remove the lower gearbox cover.

We remove the rubber boot of the coupling from the secondary shaft, the stopper from the secondary shaft, use a suitable punch to knock out the centering sleeve of the coupling. If it is not possible to “pick up” the sleeve, then unscrew the nut of the secondary shaft as far as possible and wrap it back.
At the same time, the bushing will almost come off its habitat. We turn on any gear, fix the input shaft, and unscrew the nut of the output shaft by “30”. Remove the conical spring washer.

If there is no retainer for the input shaft at hand, then you can use an aluminum spoon by inserting its handle between the gears of the input and intermediate shafts. Do not be afraid for the gears, the lumin will not harm them.
Remove the flange of the flexible coupling.

We turn off the switch for the reversing lights. Do not lose the copper sealing washer.

We unscrew the nut and take out the speedometer drive

We turn on the second gear and remove the gear lever housing by unscrewing three nuts along the outer radius.

We unscrew the two nuts securing the bracket of the pants to the gearbox

Remove the bracket and remove the square head bolt underneath.

We unscrew the five nuts securing the rear cover on the outside and one on the inside.

Remove the back cover, sometimes you have to hit it with a hammer slightly, the bearings may come loose.
part of the bearing remains on the shaft, part in the back cover, no big deal.

Remove the inner bearing ring from the secondary shaft (hereinafter referred to as P.), then remove the speedometer drive gear.
AHTUNG! There is a small ball under the drive gear, don’t lose it!

We remove the slinger washer and examine it, there was a case when the washer came off the bushing.

Using a screwdriver, set the 1-2 gear shift rod to neutral.
We fix the input shaft and move the head on the “17” bolt of the gear block. Then it will go by hand,
but do not turn it away yet.

Now you need to remove the clutch cover (aka bell). Unscrew one nut at “13” and six nuts at “17”.

Remove, set aside. A spring cone washer remains on the input shaft, or in the bell.
We examine it for chafing, cracks; sometimes, instead of a conical washer, there may be a thick ring.

Holding the input shaft with a retainer, unscrew the front intermediate shaft bolt (hereinafter referred to as the washer shaft) with the head on “19”.

We unscrew the two bolts of the plate holding the springs of the clamps of the gear shift rods.

There are three springs under the plate, two of the same length (for rods of 1-2 and 3-4 gears) and one longer (for the 5th gear and reverse gear).
We take out the springs.

There are three balls under the springs, they are in oil, they do not fall out by themselves, but still keep an eye on them
in the process of further disassembly.

Now we unscrew the bolt of the gear block and take it out. Now take out the block of gears. Move back and sideways.
The gears of the 5th gear move back a little.

A spacer ring is installed between the gear block and the rear shaft of the shaft; it sometimes sticks to the gear block.
and disappears at the most inopportune moment.

We remove the 5th gear gear assembly from the secondary shaft with the 5th gear shift rod, with the gear Z.H., the clutch.

Remove the spacer ring.

Using a suitable thin object, push the ball of the retainer out of the socket. I use a tube from VD 40, it is flexible.

Now with pliers we open the locking ring of the V-gear synchronizer coupling hub and remove it.

Remove the hub from the secondary shaft of the gearbox.

Remove the spring washer. It is facing the gear Z.Kh.

Remove the reverse gear

Now you need to remove the washer shaft. To do this, you need to remove the front bearing.
Sometimes it is enough to hook onto the retaining ring with screwdrivers and the P. will come out.

Sometimes he does not want to slide, then he has to screw the bolt several turns into the hole and, creating an emphasis with a screwdriver, slightly
knock on the bolt with a hammer and move the bearing.

Now we remove the rear P. of the scrubber by pushing it out of the housing with a screwdriver.

We unscrew the bolt securing the 3-4 gears fork to the 3-4 gear shift rod with the head on “10”.

We take out the stem and at the same time pull out the plug.

AHTUNG! There is a small lock block in the selector rod which may fall out when the rod is pulled out.

Then we remove the blocking cracker from the gearbox housing.

We take out the ball of the retainer.

We unscrew the bolt securing the 1-2 gear fork to the 1-2 gear shift rod with the head on “10”.

We take out the stem and at the same time pull out the plug.

Then we remove the blocking cracker from the gearbox housing.

We take out the ball of the retainer.

Remove the needle bearing and examine the friction surfaces of the needle bearing inside the input shaft and on the output shaft.
If there are traces of chipping, then the shaft will have to be changed.

We wash the bearing and carefully inspect it, the treadmill and balls should not have traces of chipping, pitting
The oil lubricated bearing should run quietly, without jamming or noise.
This is what a worn-out treadmill looks like - the cause of the noise

If it becomes necessary to replace the bearing, then:
Remove the retaining ring from the outer bearing race

Using a puller, we remove the retaining ring, if it does not slide out of its place, then we knock it down with a punch,
remove the spring washer

We press out the bearing and press on a new one.
blow along the shaft

Using an impact screwdriver and a hammer, pull off and unscrew the three screws of the locking plate.

The screws can be reused in the absence of damage, but we always install new castellated washers during assembly.
Remove the locking plate.

We remove the bearing from the gearbox housing assembly with a lock washer.

Holding the gears on the shaft, pull out the secondary shaft assembly from the gearbox housing.

This is what the removed output shaft assembly looks like.

Remove the 3-4 gears clutch from the shaft, inspect the clutch; there should be no dents on the teeth.
Now we disassemble the output shaft for inspection of 1st and 2nd gears. All parts are simply removed from the shaft.
Sometimes the 1-2 gear hub can sit tight enough, a couple of light blows to the 2nd gear gear and the hub will come off.
This is how the 1st and 2nd gear parts removed from the secondary shaft look.

If you need to get access to the 3rd gear gear and the locking ring, then we disassemble the shaft in the following order:
We clamp the shaft in a vice through a rag.

It will not work to unclench the stopper, we knock it out of place with a punch, the ring will pop out by itself.

Remove the 3rd gear assembly.

We put in place the gear, hub, spring ring.

Using a circlip remover, we put the circlip as close as possible to its place on the shaft.

Using a punch with a blow from above and around the perimeter of the ring, we plant the retaining ring in place.

We inspect the gears, the teeth should not have nicks, the edges should be sharp

We inspect the gears; chipped teeth are not allowed.
When buying a new gear, pay attention to the teeth of the gear itself - there should be no nicks or other defects.
There were new gears with nicks, as a result of which the noise was provided.
We inspect the synchronizer blocking ring, it should not have marks from the coupling (notches along the ring or an annular groove)
In the photo on the left is a worn ring, on the right is a new one

To replace the locking ring, press the ring against the gear (compressing the spring)
and unclench the locking ring with a puller

Remove the stopper and locking ring

We put a new ring, put it back, check the ease of movement, it should not jam.

We inspect the clutch-nicks on the teeth, there should be no signs of wear in the groove under the fork
Worn coupling

We inspect the shift forks; wear on the working surface of the fork is not allowed.
For comparison, a new and worn fork

We change the input shaft oil seal.
From the clutch side, through a hole in the guide sleeve of the release bearing with a suitable diameter punch
knock out the oil seal.

We thoroughly clean, degrease, lubricate with a thin layer of sealant,
we put the oil seal in place using the head on “32”.

Examining the clutch fork support "soldier" for wear.
We inspect the spring thrust washer (wear of the bearing surfaces, cracks are not allowed).

Put some lithol on the washer seat and put it in place. With lithol, the washer is “glued” and will not fall out during assembly.

Let's now deal with the back cover.
As a rule, a cage of one or two bearings remains in it, and the oil seal also needs to be changed.
We knock out the plug with an extension cord.

We knock out the oil seal with a screwdriver.

Using a screwdriver and a hammer, knock the bearings out of the back cover housing. sit without tension, so they knock out easily.

We wash the body, degrease the gland seats and plugs.
Apply sealant to the gland seats and plugs.
We press in the oil seal and the plug.

To complete the work, you will need fixing glue, an impact screwdriver, oil seals for the primary and secondary shafts, a set of gaskets, and a torque wrench.

1. Drain the oil from the gearbox (see “Gearbox - Checking the Oil Level and Changing the Oil”).

2. Remove the gearbox (see "Gearbox - removal and installation").

3. We clean with a brush and rinse the outer surface of the box with kerosene or white spirit.

4. Remove the release bearing clutch and the clutch release fork from the gearbox (see "Clutch parts - removal and installation").

5. Disconnect the flexible coupling of the propeller shaft from the flange on the output shaft of the box (see "Propeller drive - disassembly and assembly").

6. Remove the flange of the flexible coupling from the output shaft of the gearbox (see "Output shaft oil seal - replacement").

7. Disconnect the support of the power unit with a cross member from the rear cover of the transmission (see “Power unit supports - replacement”).

8. Remove the speedometer drive (see “Speedometer drive - replacement”).

9. Remove the reversing light switch (see “Reversing light switch - check and replacement”).

10. Remove the cuff from the ball joint of the gear lever.

11. Key by 10 mm unscrew the three nuts securing the gear lever housing to the rear crankcase cover.

12. Remove the lever housing and the sealing gasket from the studs A under him.

13. Socket wrench by 13 mm we unscrew the two nuts securing the bracket for the exhaust pipe of the exhaust system.

14. Remove the bracket and take out the square head bolt underneath.

15. Socket and box wrenches by 13 mm unscrew the five nuts securing the back cover.

16. Socket wrench by 10 mm unscrew ten nuts securing the bottom cover.

17. Remove the cover and the gasket underneath.

18. Some nuts will come loose with the studs. In this case, after washing the threaded holes and studs with a solvent, apply fixing glue according to the instructions and install the studs in place.

19. Key by 13 mm unscrew the remaining rear cover retaining nut located inside the crankcase.

20. To facilitate the removal of the rear cover, use a screwdriver to recess the 1st and 2nd gear engagement rod. This engages second gear.

21. Tapping the cover with a hammer with a rubber or wooden striker along the perimeter of the mounting plane, disconnect it from the box crankcase.

22. Remove the rear cover from the studs, and then, turning it clockwise, remove it from the crankcase. A gasket installed between the cover and the crankcase could break. When assembling, we install a new gasket.

23. We remove from the back cover the plastic plug of the block of gears of the 5th and reverse gears, squeezing it out with a suitable tool through the hole in the bearing.

24.With pliers, remove the thrust ring of the bearing of the gear block of the V-th gear and reverse gear from the groove in the cover.

25. In order not to damage the rear cover, install it on two wooden blocks and press out the bearing of the gear block of the V-th gear and reverse gear with a hammer (through a mandrel of a suitable diameter). The inner ring of the bearing usually remains on the block shaft.

27. Remove the secondary shaft oil seal from the hole in the rear cover (see "Output shaft oil seal - replacement").

28. Take out the thrust washer of the inner ring of the rear bearing of the secondary shaft.

29. Press out the rear bearing of the output shaft with a mandrel suitable for the diameter and take it out.

30. Remove the inner ring of the rear bearing from the secondary shaft.

We assemble the bearing by tying its parts with wire or twine.

31. Remove the speedometer drive gear and the ball - retainer A gears located in the groove of the shaft.

32. Remove the slinger washer.

33. The key by 10 mm unscrew the bolt securing the V-th gear and reverse gear.

34. To block the rotation of the shafts, we shift the intermediate gear A reverse, including reverse gear. The second gear was engaged earlier when removing the rear cover. If it turns off, press the stock B... Socket wrench by 17 mm we loosen the tightening of the bolt securing the block of gears of the 5th gear and reverse gear, without completely unscrewing the bolt.

35. Socket wrench by 13 mm unscrew one nut securing the clutch housing to the gearbox and a socket wrench by 17 mm unscrew the remaining six nuts.

36. Having wrung out with a screwdriver, disconnect the clutch housing from the box and remove the gasket.

37. To replace the input shaft oil seal, press it out with a punch through the hole in the flange of the front cover of the gearbox.

38. Using the pliers, remove the oil seal from the front cover of the gearbox.

39. Remove the spring ring from the input shaft of the gearbox. The ring has a tapered shape and is installed with a smaller diameter towards the bearing.

40. Socket wrench by 19 mm we unscrew the bolt securing the front bearing of the intermediate shaft and take out the bolt together with the spring and clamping washers.

41. Socket wrench by 17 mm finally unscrew and remove the bolt securing the gear block.

42. Moving the V-th gear shift fork along the rod, remove the gear block from the intermediate shaft.

43. Install the gear block in a vice and press the inner ring of the intermediate shaft rear bearing with two large screwdrivers.

We assemble the bearing and tie its parts with wire or twine.

44. Remove the spacer washer from the secondary shaft.

45. Socket wrench by 13 mm we unscrew the two bolts securing the cover of the rod retainers.

46. ​​Remove the cover with the gasket.

47. From the holes in the crankcase, remove the springs of the rod retainers. Spring A the locking rod for engaging the V-th gear and reverse gear differs from others in rigidity. To distinguish it, it has a dark color and during assembly it must be installed in its place.

48. It is more convenient to remove the retaining balls using a rubber bulb, creating a vacuum.

49. Remove the V-th gear gear assembly with a synchronizer from the secondary shaft.

50. Remove the spacer ring.

51. Having shifted the gear selection fork, remove the V-gear synchronizer sleeve.

52. Holding the fork, remove the intermediate reverse gear from the axle.

53. Remove the rod of inclusion of the V-th gear and reverse gear together with the shift fork and the remote bushing A stock. Remove the bushing and plug from the stem.

54. Socket wrench by 10 mm unscrew the bolt securing the stem head and remove it.

55. Using a magnetic screwdriver or using a rubber bulb, remove from the hole A in the crankcase wall a blocking cracker.

56. Using pliers, unclench the V-gear synchronizer hub retaining ring and remove it.

57. Remove the hub from the shaft.

58.Remove the spring washer.

59. Remove the reverse gear.

60. Having pushed out from the inside, we take out the rear bearing of the intermediate shaft.

61. Prying on the locating ring with two screwdrivers, take out the front bearing of the intermediate shaft.

62. We take out the intermediate shaft from the crankcase.

63. Prying with two screwdrivers, remove a part of the inner ring of the rear bearing from the intermediate shaft and assemble the bearing.

64. Socket wrench by 10 mm with an extension cord, unscrew the bolt securing the 3rd and 4th gear shift fork to the rod.

65. We take out the engagement rod of the III and IV gears from the hole, at the same time removing the plug from it.

66. From the hole in the rod, remove the blocking cracker.

67. With a powerful magnet or with the help of a rubber bulb, we extract the blocking cracker from the hole in the crankcase.

68. Socket wrench by 10 mm unscrew the bolt fastening the forks of the 1st and 2nd gears.

69. We take out the stem from the hole, at the same time removing the plug from it.

70. Using an impact screwdriver, unscrew the three screws securing the retaining plate of the intermediate bearing of the secondary shaft and remove it.

71. Prying with two large screwdrivers for the bearing mounting ring, we push the bearing out of the crankcase.

72. Remove the input shaft assembly.

73. Take out the front roller bearing from the shaft bore. The bearing can also remain at the end of the output shaft.

74. Prying with two screwdrivers on the locating ring of the intermediate bearing of the secondary shaft, we pull the bearing off the shaft.

75. We take out the secondary shaft from the crankcase.

76. Holding with a key by 24 mm axle of the intermediate gear wheel of reverse gear from turning, with a socket wrench by 19 mm unscrew the axle nut.

77. Clamping the secondary shaft vertically in a vice through soft pads, remove the synchronization clutch of the III and IV gears from the shaft.

78. Using pliers, unclench and remove the hub retaining ring from the shaft.

79. Remove the spring washer.

80. Remove the synchronization clutch hub.

81. We remove the gear wheel with the synchronizer of the III-rd transfer.

82. We support the edges of the 1st gear gear on a rigid base (for example, two keys), up to 5 mm thick. We press out the secondary shaft from the gear sleeve through a drift from soft metal.

84. Remove the gear with the 1st gear synchronizer.

85. We take out the hub of the synchronization clutch of the 1st and 2nd gears.

86. Remove the synchronization clutch.

87. Remove the gear with a synchronizer of the 2nd gear from the shaft.

88. Having fastened the input shaft in a vice through soft lining, we push apart and remove the bearing retaining ring with pliers.

89. Remove the spring washer.

90. Leaning the edges of the bearing on a rigid base, press out the input shaft from the inner ring of the bearing through a drift made of soft metal.

91. Holding the blocking ring of the synchronization clutch of the 4th gear by hand, use the pliers to push apart and remove the retaining ring.

92. Gradually releasing the locking ring, remove it and the synchronizer spring of the 4th gear.

93. Similarly, we analyze the mechanisms of synchronization of other transmissions.

The tightening torques of critical threaded connections of parts are given in the appendices (see “Tightening torques for threaded connections”).

Before assembly, we rinse all parts with white spirit or kerosene and blow with compressed air. We wash and blow through the bearings with compressed air. We inspect and replace worn parts. The parts should be free of damage and traces of excessive wear, and on the mating surfaces of the parts there should be no scuff marks.

The crankcase walls must be free of cracks, and the bearing seats must be free of signs of wear or damage. The contact surfaces of the connectors of the gearbox housing, clutch housing and rear cover must not be damaged, causing divergence of the shaft axes and insufficient tightness.

Damage or excessive wear of sliding surfaces and splines is not allowed on the shafts. Slight irregularities in the surfaces may be removed with fine-grained emery paper; if there are large damages or deformations, the shaft must be replaced with a new one.

The bearings should show no signs of destruction of the tracks, cages, balls or rollers; when the bearing rings are turned, the rolling should be smooth. When repairing gearboxes with significant mileage (100 thousand km or more), it is advisable to replace all bearings with new ones, regardless of their current condition.

Excessive wear and chipping of gear teeth and synchronizers are not allowed, the working surface of the teeth must be smooth.

Also, deformation of the forks for engaging gears is not allowed, the rods of the forks must slide freely without a significant gap in the holes in the crankcase.

There should be no traces of binding on the hubs of the gear clutches.

The friction surfaces of the locking rings must be notched. In case of wear of the notch, replace the locking ring with a new one.

1. All gaskets and seals are replaced with new ones.

2. Before installation, the working surfaces of the oil seals are lubricated with a thin layer of grease.

3. When assembling the gearbox, lubricate all parts with gear oil.

4. When assembling the gear blocks on the shafts, installing the retaining rings, we seat them with a screwdriver until the rings are completely fixed.

5. When installing bearings on shafts, we apply force to the inner rings, and when installing into the holes of the crankcases, to the outer ones.

6. Press the input shaft oil seal into the front cover with a mandrel of a suitable diameter.

7. Further assembly of the transmission is carried out in reverse order. Before installing the box on the car, we check the clarity of the inclusion of all gears.