In detail: faucet kitchen faucet DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Single-lever mixers attract with their laconic design and easy control of the water flow. Turning on the water, changing its temperature and pressure - all this with one turn of the knob. These devices are reliable, have a solid service life - some branded ones give a 5-year warranty. Nevertheless, repairs to the single-lever mixer are periodically necessary.
Despite the external similarity, there are two types of rotary or single-lever mixers - with a cartridge (cartridge) and ball - with a ball inside. You can repair any of them, but for this you need to disassemble them first. And so that you can not only disassemble, but also assemble, it is advisable to get acquainted with the internal structure of each.
The design can be different, the structure remains the same
Cartridge mixers are named so because their locking and regulating mechanism is hidden in a special cartridge flask. In the more expensive models of faucets, the cartridge body is made of ceramic, in the cheaper ones it is made of plastic. What are good about these models is the ease of repair, but with them it is not always easy to achieve the required pressure - you need a tighter control of the handle. But it is very easy to change the temperature of the water - with a slight movement of the hand.
The structure of a single-lever valve with a cartridge is simple. If you go from top to bottom:
- Switch with fixing screw.
- Locking (compression) nut.
- Cartridge. It mixes the streams of water, the same device shuts off the water.
- The body of the mixer, which has a seat for the cartridge.
- Fasteners, studs and gaskets to ensure tightness.
- Spout (gander). It can be a separate part - in swivel models for the kitchen or part of the body - for sinks in the bathroom.
- If the spout is separate, gaskets are still installed from below and there is still a part of the body.
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What a single-lever mixer cartridge consists of
The cartridge itself contains several (usually 4) specially shaped ceramic or metal discs. A stem is welded to the upper disc. By changing the position of the rod, we change the position of the plates relative to each other, changing the amount of water passing through the holes in the plates.
For the faucet / mixer to work properly, the plates are ground very tightly. For this reason, single-lever cartridge mixers are very demanding on water quality. If foreign fragments enter between the plates, the valve leaks or stops working altogether. To avoid this, some manufacturers install filters on the inlet pipes. But, it is better to put filters on the water supply and get clean water, which can be safely supplied to household appliances.
It got its name from the element in which water is mixed - a ball with cavities. The ball is usually metal, hollow inside. The outer part is polished to a high shine. There are three holes in the ball - two for the inlet of cold and hot water, one for the outlet of the already mixed one. A rod is attached to the ball, which goes into the cavity on the handle. This rod with a rigidly attached ball also changes the temperature of the water, its pressure.
The structure of a single-lever mixer with a ball-type water mixing mechanism
It is easier to adjust the parameters with such a device - the parts are well ground in, the handle moves easily. Ball mixers are less critical to the presence of mechanical impurities, but do not respond very well to the presence of hardness salts and excess iron. So for normal operation, pre-filtering is also required here.
Repairs to single lever cartridge faucets often involve overhauling and cleaning the O-rings. Salts are deposited on them, debris and dirt accumulate, which is why the tap starts to leak. To eliminate this nuisance, the mixer is disassembled, all parts are wiped from contamination (with warm soapy water), rinsed, dried, and put in place.
The sequence of installation of parts in a cartridge single-lever mixer
Let's figure out how to disassemble a faucet with a cartridge. First, turn off the water, and then the procedure is as follows:
- Remove the decorative cover on the handle. Just pick it up with a screwdriver.
- A fastening screw is hidden behind it. We unscrew it with a hex wrench and take it out.
First, unscrew the fixing screw
That's all. The single-lever mixer with cartridge was disassembled. As you can see, there are not very many details. The main working part is a cartridge. It is in him, inside, that mixing takes place.
The cartridge itself has a sealing gasket - a rubber seat at the bottom, which provides a snug fit to the body. Over time, rubber loses its elasticity, water begins to ooze. If this is the problem, you can first try to clean this ring of salts and deposits that have formed on it. Put the cleaned part in place, check the work. If the leak does not stop, the cartridge will have to be replaced.
One-hand mixer cartridges
Mixer cartridges have different diameters, inlets and outlets in the lower part are located in different ways. Therefore, if you need to replace it, first you disassemble the mixer, get the cherished part and go with it to the store or to the market. You need to choose exactly the same model without any deviations. At home, you install the cartridge into the case, turn it slightly until you feel that it has "sat down" in place. Next - the assembly, it goes in the reverse order.
Install the compression nut first. Actually, at this stage you can check how the new cartridge works. Turn on the water, adjust the temperature and pressure with the rod. To make it more convenient, you can put a handle on the stem. If everything is ok, continue with the build.
The single-lever ball mixer was invented a little over 40 years ago. Its design is simple and reliable - there is actually nothing to break. If problems arise, it is only because of poor-quality water - dirt particles settle on the rubber seats on which the ball rests. Contact deteriorates, water seeps out and the faucet starts to leak.
How to disassemble a single lever ball mixer
Some ball valves are also available with a cartridge. Only the inside of the cartridge is not a plate, but a ball. Disassembly of this type is no different from the one described above. The whole difference is hidden inside the flask. There are also other types of taps. In them, the shut-off ball is installed directly in the rubber seat. There are some minor differences here.
The tap lever is removed in the same way - first remove the plug, then unscrew the screw with a hexagon. Pull the lever up, remove it. After the actions are very simple and similar to those described above:
- We unscrew the cap, preferably with our hands, since it is usually made of thin metal, it is easy to bend it.
- We unscrew the clamping nut, there is a washer under it, we also remove it.
- Access to the ball is now open. We pull the stem, take out the ball.
- There are two saddles under the ball, with springs so that the rubber bands are pressed more tightly against the ball.
All dismantled. Next is the repair of a single-lever mixer. In theory, the problem is that deposits have accumulated at the point of contact between the ball and the seat. They must be removed - gently clean, wipe. There may be problems with the springs. They also sometimes accumulate dirt, but more often they simply lose their elasticity.
The third source of problems is the ball itself. Actually, it should be made of stainless steel, therefore, it only needs to be cleaned of deposits.In reality, this is not always the case - cheap taps have appeared, even with plastic balls or made of cheap metal. In this case, peeling of the surface or other similar troubles may occur. Such a locking element will no longer work normally. It needs to be replaced. With a ball, you also go to the store, pick up a replacement of a suitable size. Assembling the mixer in the reverse order: the springs from the saddle, the saddle is out of place, there is a ball on them, etc. Collecting the entire structure, carefully center everything - a skew will lead to rapid wear and the valve will flow again.
Faucets with a swivel spout are placed on sinks in the kitchen or on the bathroom. Periodically begins to flow from under it. The locking mechanism in this case is not to blame, it is just that the gaskets have lost their elasticity or the lubricant has dried out.
Repair of a single-lever mixer with a movable spout
In this case, disassemble the mixer as described above, then remove by pulling up the spout. Remove all old gaskets. If they are stuck, you can use a flat screwdriver or even a knife blade. You need to remove them, but they still need to be replaced. Select new ones from the removed gaskets. It is desirable that they be made of silicone, not rubber. Silicone is more elastic, retains its properties longer, and better tolerates contact with water.
Lubricate new gaskets with plumbing silicone grease, install in place. Replace the spout. It must be pressed down well so that it rests against the union nut on the mixer body. Next - the assembly of the rest of the mechanism.
A single-lever, or, as it is also called, a joystick mixer confidently takes the place of outdated valve structures. It is simple, easy to use and reliable enough.
Will a craftsman be able to repair a kitchen faucet with his own hands without asking a plumber for help? We will talk about this in this publication.
Like any mechanism, the mixer sometimes breaks down. Failure of a plumbing fixture in the bathroom or in the kitchen is the most common breakdown, which cannot be overlooked - puddles on the floor and the annoying sounds of falling drops that do not stop day or night, will not leave anyone indifferent.
The above troubles can be easily and quickly eliminated on your own. Of course, for this you need to at least theoretically familiarize yourself with the internal structure of the mixer, to know the reason for its failure and how to eliminate it.
All these questions will be discussed in detail below, but first we will consider the advantages of this plumbing fixture, which it owes its popularity to:
- Simplicity and maintainability. This has already been mentioned above - due to its simplicity, a single-lever mixer serves for a long time, and this period can be extended by timely repairing the product.
- Ease of use. There is no need to turn the valves, it is enough to lift the mixer joystick up in one motion to let the water in. To adjust the temperature, the lever is turned left and right, and the pressure is adjusted by vertical movement of the lever.
- Durability. The simpler the design, the less often it breaks down - a single-lever mixer consists of a small number of parts, and if you take good care of it, install a filter on the water, then the product is guaranteed to last more than 10 years. Of course, this only applies to quality mixers.
On sale you can often find products made of fragile, short-lived, but very cheap silumin. In the best case, such a mixer will work for two years.
A simple renovation is also worth mentioning. Simply put, any smart housewife can do a simple repair of a single-lever mixer with her own hands. Basically, it all comes down to a banal replacement of a disk cartridge or ball - depending on the design of the device. But let's not get ahead of ourselves and consider the internal structure of the mixer.
Let us repeat once again - the device of a single-lever mixer is very simple - there are no constantly breaking crane-axles here at all.
If you do not take into account the presence of spouts, shower heads, all kinds of switches, the device consists of only two main parts: a monolithic metal case and a cartridge with a locking device of two discs or a ball. They are "responsible" for controlling the flow of water and regulating its temperature.
The cartridge is placed in the body and securely secured inside with just one nut, which is neatly hidden under the decorative cap. The cartridge control joystick is installed directly on its lever. Everything is simple, no unnecessary details, therefore - no serious breakdowns.
The internal structure of a single-lever mixer may differ - a disc cartridge and a ball can open / close the water and regulate its temperature. Consider the device of both designs.
As the name implies, inside such a device there is a special cartridge flask with a locking and adjusting mechanism. In expensive faucets, the cartridge is made of high quality ceramics, in budget versions it is usually plastic.
The cartridge mixer is very easy to operate, but those people who are used to the valve mixer will need to practice a little at first, as the joystick turns very easily.
But you get used to the good quickly: the desired temperature and water pressure can be adjusted with one easy movement. Partial or full alignment of the disks forms a stream with the characteristics required by the user.
The cartridge mixer consists of:
- Outpouring, or, as it is also called, "gander".
- A switch equipped with a fixing screw.
- Lock nut.
- Actually, the cartridge.
- Housings with a seat for the cartridge.
- Gaskets, studs, nuts - parts to ensure tightness.
The locking mechanism discs are most often made of ceramics, less often of steel alloy. There are projections on the top, and holes on the bottom, their shape is complementary to each other. When fully aligned, the protrusions overlap the holes, resulting in an airtight joint. If partially blocked, water flows into the spout. The less the protrusions of the upper cartridge cover the openings of the lower part of the valve, the stronger the jet.
It should be noted that the plates are ground against each other very tightly - this is a necessary condition for the normal operation of the mixer. For this reason, cartridge models "do not like" dirty water with foreign mechanical suspensions very much, since tiny particles get between the plates and lead to their rapid wear, as a result, to premature shutter failure.
To extend the life of the product, some manufacturers immediately install a water filter on the inlet of the mixer at the factory. It is recommended to follow their example: independently install a good filter on the water main and boldly supply purified water to all plumbing fixtures.
As in the case of the disc model, the name indicates the design features of the device's slide mechanism. In this mixer model, the water pressure and its temperature are regulated by a special ball. The part is made of metal, the ball is hollow inside. The outer part is perfectly polished. The ball has three holes - two for cold and hot water, the third for mixed water.
The rod is rigidly attached to the part, its other end is attached to the mixer control handle. Thus, when the handle is pressed, the stem turns the ball, opens / closes access to water and regulates the temperature of the jet.
It is much easier and more convenient to operate a ball mixer than a disc mixer, since the parts are smooth, perfectly fitted, the joystick moves very smoothly and gently.The ball is installed in a kind of sleeve cartridge, which can be easily removed from the device in case of repair or replacement.
By analogy with a disc device, a ball mixer is very picky about water quality, reacts poorly to hard water and high iron content. Most ball valve leaks are due to debris entering the gaps between the ball and the rubber seats that hold it. Installing a water filter in front of the mixer in this case is also considered a mandatory procedure.
A puddle flows under the sink - the first step is to inspect the spout. If it is completely dry, then the problem lies in the violation of the tightness of the water supply. We'll have to crawl under the sink and look for the leak. To make it easier to do this, you need to wipe the pipes dry with a cloth, and then see where the water is oozing. Most often, the problem is eliminated by tightening the nut.
When the thread on the branch pipe is damaged, the part must be replaced. With damaged internal threads in the mixer body, the problem becomes much more serious. You can try to fix the leak by wrapping the thread of the branch pipe with sealing tape or tow with sealant, but this is a temporary solution and the mixer will most likely have to be changed entirely.
Dripping from the spout, although the lever is completely closed - the reason may be damage to the locking mechanism, because abrasion of the sealing parts practically does not affect the operation of single-lever devices. If there are cracks in the housing, the mixer needs to be changed - it will not be possible to fix it.
A pool of water on the sink near the base of the mixer body. The reason is a crack in the body or wear of the gasket in the swivel part of the spout.
We figured out the gaskets of the single-lever mixer. It remains to assemble the device and install it on the workplace:
Let's make a reservation right away that "repair" in this case is not an entirely appropriate word, since, most likely, you will only have to replace the cartridge, or, in a particularly difficult case, the entire mixer itself.
Debris and salts, which are abundant in city tap water, constantly build up on the rubber O-rings. Gradually, the tightness begins to break and a leak forms. To eliminate it, the device must be disassembled, cleaned and reassembled in the reverse order.
Before starting to disassemble the mixer, it is necessary to shut off the water supply. Further, the operation algorithm is as follows.
First of all, remove the decorative cover on the side of the case. It can be removed very easily, you need to pick it up with a knife or screwdriver. After the plug is removed, access to a small mounting screw will open, which can be unscrewed either with a hex key or a screwdriver. The screw must be completely unscrewed and pulled out, after which you can remove the mixer lever by gently pulling it up.
A decorative washer is usually screwed or loosely installed on the mixer body. It must be removed, and then unscrew the clamping nut that secures the mixer to the sink. The nut has a large diameter - you need an adjustable wrench or open-end wrench of a suitable size. The cartridge can then be removed from the housing and examined for damage.
At this, the disassembly of the mixer can be considered complete. There are very few parts, and there should be no "extra" parts during reassembly.
For the cartridge, inside the mixer body there is a so-called "seat" with a rubber seal - in other words, a common rubber gasket, which over time can become clogged or lose elasticity. As a result, water begins to ooze from under the base of the mixer. If, after cleaning or replacing the gasket, the problem persists, then the matter is most likely in the cartridge itself and it will have to be replaced.
Please note that discs in cartridges are not standard sizes. They may also differ in the location of the water inlet and outlet.Therefore, if it is decided to replace them, the old parts must be removed from the case and taken with you to the store, where they must be shown to the seller for comparison. You need to buy the same cartridge, without any differences.
After the clamping nut is tightened, you can turn on the water and check the new cartridge for performance. It is necessary to regulate the pressure of water and its temperature without a handle with a rod. However, for convenience, you can immediately put a handle on the stem.
The ball mixer was invented almost half a century ago, and since then its design, in fact, has not changed. It is very simple and reliable enough - there is nothing to break here.
If there are any problems, then most of all they are associated either with poor-quality materials from which the plumbing fixture is made, or with bad water. As in the case of a disc mixer, the gaskets must be removed, carefully examined for damage, then either replaced or cleaned of dirt, washed, dried and reinstalled.
For ball valve mixer models, the disassembly and repair process is the same as above. The only difference is in the position of the ball, which rotates relative to the rubber seats tightly pressed against it. The tightness of the contact between the parts is ensured by the water expanding the mechanism.
The lever itself, transmitting the movement to the control rod, is removed in the same way as in disc models: you need to uncork the decorative plug, unscrew the screw, remove it, and then remove the mixer lever. Next, you need to unscrew the clamping nut and remove the washer that is under it. This opens access to the ball. The ball itself is easy to remove - you just need to pull the stem.
At this, the disassembly of the mixer can be considered complete and proceed to inspecting the parts, replacing them or cleaning them from contamination.
As noted above, most often the problem is the deposition of salt and grains of sand on the rotating parts and the elements of the mixer in contact with them. All dirt must be carefully removed and the springs must be inspected - they can also be dirty. In addition, the springs may lose their elasticity and need to be replaced.
The cause of the mixer failure may also lie in the ball itself. Ideally, it should be made from high quality stainless steel grades. In this case, it only needs to be cleaned of dirt.
In fact, manufacturers, especially Chinese ones, save on expensive materials and produce parts from low-quality metal. Over time, the surface of such a ball begins to peel off, rust, the water holes become clogged with rust particles and the mixer breaks down. In this case, cleaning the surface will not help; the ball will have to be replaced. The old part, as in the case of the disc cartridge, must be taken with you to the store for comparison.
Assembling the ball mixer must be strictly in reverse order, work very carefully and center the parts. An incorrectly installed element will wear out quickly and can cause another breakdown.
A separate point should be mentioned the most common and, at the same time, insignificant problem - clogging of the mixer aerator. This small piece is a regular mesh and is designed to prevent splashing. Over time, the mesh cells become clogged with salt deposits and miniature debris.
Removing the aerator is very simple - you need to unscrew the washer at the end of the spout and pull out the part. If the mesh has not become completely unusable, but simply clogged, it must be cleaned and reinstalled.
The aerator can be replaced if it is possible to find a suitable analogue in size, or, in extreme cases, use a mixer without it.
Another problem is clogging of the flexible connections of the mixer.
Considering the state of modern water pipes and the quality of the city water, there is nothing unusual here.In this case, you need to turn off the water, unscrew the inlets, clean them, inspect for damage to the threads and install them back.
After watching the training video, you will have a better understanding of the disassembly / assembly process of the single lever mixer.
How to disassemble the device and replace the cartridge: