In detail: watercress 1050 pxc DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Currently, a wide range of power tools (drills, screwdrivers, rotary hammers, angle grinders, jigsaws), as well as pneumatic tools and other equipment for home and garden are produced under the Kress trademark. The Kress power tool is divided into two lines: professional (gray-red) and semi-professional (gray-blue) for home use.
Our company sells Kress consumables and spare parts, warranty and post-warranty repairs.
It's been three years now and so far so good. He lived for 3 extreme months during the repairs of the workers. There is enough foolishness to break off the heads of 8mm hardened self-tapping screws if you get stuck. bought 3 years ago for 6500 and for this price it is simply gorgeous.
The fact that someone broke something that he cannot name and in just a month, despite the fact that he has 2 Russian percussion drills that live for 8 years, makes me think about lies.
I want to take it for myself, but used. Apparently no one will disassemble to clarify the state.
Does he have pitfalls?
Or, for example, what is suitable from the Chinese counterparts for this model? I mean that maybe the perf has wound up, it was repaired with something Chinese (= interskol) and they want to sell it quickly.
How can a killed person be distinguished? (cartridge play, collector creak, sluggish blow.)
Perf this: ">
And for some reason, I doubt that 2 years ago it cost 19,000, it seems to cost so much right now.
Dim_CA wrote:
I want to take it for myself, but used. Apparently no one will disassemble to clarify the state.
Does he have pitfalls?
Or, for example, what is suitable from the Chinese counterparts for this model? I mean that maybe the perf has wound up, it was repaired with something Chinese (= interskol) and they want to sell it quickly.
How can a killed person be distinguished? (cartridge play, collector creak, sluggish blow.)
Perf this: ">
And for some reason, I doubt that 2 years ago it cost 19,000, it seems to cost so much right now.
 |
Video (click to play). |
the impact at 1050 even in comparison with 800v 26 Bosch with novya sluggish. the weak point is the worm gear. the trunk was also written to change at low mileage. sold for spare parts crossed himself. I do not recommend buying.
Hmmm. Had a better opinion of watercress. Thank you.
Dim_CA wrote:
Hmmm. Had a better opinion of watercress. Thank you.
we are talking about the kilowatt. for example, the first 750v watercress marking I do not remember worked for a long time survived the change of brushes no more complaints.
Worm gear - is it the rotor shaft? And what actually happened to the barrel? Why did you come up? Or original
I have a kress 750 PXC, he is 15 years old, I don’t remember exactly how many. I changed the brushes, the rear rotor bearing, then I changed the rotor, because erased worm, wire rewound in two places. I worked very intensively for them, scrapping the screed, the socket boxes with a crown, constantly mixing the solutions, sometimes I thought that it would die, but no longer lives, it is still in the ranks.
Dim_CA wrote:
And what actually happened to the barrel?
as a rule, wear of geometry and splines.
Mutru4 wrote:
as a rule, wear of geometry and splines.
How can geometry be worn out?
ser6672 wrote:
How can geometry be worn out?
An “egg” instead of a regular circle.
I don’t know what geometry my perf has, the drills have a wild backlash, but they don’t fall out, and it doesn’t interfere with drilling.
ser6672 wrote:
I don’t know what geometry my perf has, the drills have a wild backlash, but they don’t fall out, and it doesn’t interfere with drilling.
somehow I bought a used perf with wild backlashes, the drill was held by the ball.
The previous owner was also fond of:
ser6672 wrote:
I worked very intensively for them, scrapping the screed, socket holders with a crown, constantly mixing solutions
As a result, he switched to hilty.
Usually borax and are held by the ball.
ser6672 wrote:
Usually borax and are held by the ball.
and the splines transmit the rotation to the drill, and that perfo completely cut them off.
Mutru4 wrote:
and the splines transmit the rotation to the drill, and that perfo completely cut them off.
I compared my perf with the dummy 2450 and 2810, the drills were 6 and 8 did not notice much difference, only those were new and mine was 15 years old.
I noticed that in the ad
” >
On the second photo there is a black plastic handle insert. I opened other advertisements and websites of sellers of the 1050th. Everywhere this insert is red. What does it mean? Levak chtoli?
Dim_CA wrote:
I noticed that in the ad
” >
On the second photo there is a black plastic handle insert. I opened other advertisements and websites of sellers of the 1050th. Everywhere this insert is red. What does it mean? Levak chtoli?
just dirty. this insert is a shock absorber type and is slightly porous over time.
Dim_CA wrote:
What does it mean?
How. Photos from different models in the network were found and inserted.
Based on the price and the photos on the left, this lot is a pig in a poke. It should also be taken into account that Kress is bankrupt and, if anything, there is no service or spare parts. And if there is, then the cost of repairs will not please.
kuzmin59 wrote:
just dirty
Not to the same degree 
Kvost wrote:
How. Photos from different models in the network were found and inserted.
Based on the price and the photos on the left, this lot is a pig in a poke. It should also be taken into account that Kress is bankrupt and, if anything, there is no service or spare parts. And if there is, then the cost of repairs will not please.
Not to the same degree
I called and asked if both photos belonged to this perf. The owner said only the second.
Proceeding from the fact that the barrel, as I understood it, in the 1050 is quite strong, I see the following checkout program:
1 operability of all modes
2 revolutions to max - is there an all-round fire (although you will not see it - it is closed). well, except for the smell
3 screw heads (showdown facts)
4 cartridge backlash
5 backlash and drill retention
6 halving (at best) in order to control the wear of the rotor worm
Huge sale of original STIHL trimmer heads. The quantity is limited.
Safety, performance, reliability, price are the main criteria for choosing construction mixers. Each client is guided by them and this minimizes the likelihood of making a mistake.
The multifunctional milling cutter, produced under the Fiolent brand, is designed to perform a variety of woodworking: making grooves, chamfering, profiling. In demand in small ones.
I'm assembling a C-Beam Machine - but I just can't make up my mind with the choice of the spindle.
I will work with Al pl 6082-T6 boards 5-8mm
please advise the best option - ease of use, quality of the result, processing speed:
- Kress 1050
- Kress 800
- 1.5 kW air from China
- 1.5 kW water from China
In your case and for tasks, take the spindle that is quieter. An air vent for 1.5 kW is quite suitable - at idle sound, it will not differ from a water one with such a power, and even more so how to cut it. But not any additional tubes, motors and containers.
Post has been editedMinivan: 29 March 2016 - 20:29
Watercress is not a spindle, but pampering.
Each Marfushka has its own toys.
For this toy, most likely Kress, tk. the critical issue can be the weight of the spindle. Compare how much the Kress FME1050 (1.7kg) weighs and the 1.5kW (4+ kg) average Chinese woman.
Yes, almost any asynchronous device has much better bearings and higher torque, plus other advantages. However - how much payload weight is acceptable for a given structure?
Therefore, Kress, oddly enough, remains in its position as a workhorse for entry-class machines.
Everything is relative. After 12kW Siemens servo spindle, Chinese 9kW is also a toy.
Post has been edited ShadowVoice: 29 March 2016 - 23:40
... And it will be a pleasure to constantly replace the brushes.
1.80% of questions are answered.
2. Ask a question in less than 10 minutes.
printer, A1, roll 24 '' (61 cm), piezoelectric inkjet printing ...
front loading (up to 7 kg), free-standing, electronic control, ...
4 × 50 W, tuner (VHF, FM, SV), CD, DVD, MP3, MPEG4, WMA, JPEG, TV tuner, subwoofer output, ...
single-cassette radio with CD, digital radio, FM, AM, MP3 playback, ...
And we will send all user responses to your question directly to your email address. Not a single question will remain unnoticed by site visitors.
I would like to share my impressions of the work of the Kress 1050 PXC. I needed a light hammer drill with a clean impact function for corrective chiselling, always a professional one. I have already worked Bosch GBH 2-24 DFR, DeWALT DW566, Makita HR 2400. I decided to take Kress.
Basically, after learning from your magazine about the anniversary of Kress and anniversary models, I wanted to buy the Kress PSE 75 Edition. But, as it turned out, there are no sellers in Donetsk who officially trade the instrument of this company, and those who called themselves official did not hear anything about the anniversary, they did not see the anniversary models and did not support any shares. The Kress 1050 PXC costs $ 320. I had to go to the smugglers.
I chose Kress 1050 PXC for the following reasons.
1. Price - for that kind of money, other manufacturers do not have those positions that are so important to me.
2. The ratio of "weight-power" and "weight-impact energy" (one could take the cheap middle and light classes, but I would lose in professionalism and mobility).
3. The reverse ring switch, in my opinion, is much more reliable than the lever overhead switch.
4. Spaced mode switches are theoretically simpler and therefore more reliable.
5. Presetting the rotation speed with the trigger wheel is very useful for mixing adhesives and putties and for screwdriving.
6. Two speeds of drilling.
7. Detachable network cable - not the main position, but, as it turned out, very convenient.
Of course, the Kress 750 PXC quite satisfies all these requirements, but the $ 20 difference seemed insignificant against the power difference.
When buying, I wanted to have an original thing, and therefore I paid attention to all the little things. For example, following the directions in your magazine, I looked for the word "Pirelli" on the cable. Something else was written there, but the traders "rummaged" in the rest of the Kress tools, found me a 4 m long "Pirelli" cable. The Rohm drill chuck with adapter was tested for axial runout. The quality of the cartridge itself was not in doubt, since Rohm cartridges have been working properly for a long time on my other instruments. But with the adapter, it looks like the overlay came out.
When I bought a hammer drill and tried out a chuck with an adapter, there was no axial runout, just as there was no backlash. But, getting down to work, I was surprised, turning into hysteria, found the axial beating of the drill chuck. It turned out that in one of the two positions there are no beats, but when the adapter is turned 180 degrees in the barrel, these appear. And I "sin" on the adapter because the drills (DeWALT Extreme 2) do not hit at all.
In addition, I would like to especially note the quality of the plastic (its resistance to scratches and the ability to clean almost to its original state), unseen before on the tool of other companies. Apparently (there was no passport in Russian), the perforator maintains speed under load, which does not allow "gas". The instrument turned out to be "thoughtful" and with great inertia. Ideally, we would like to have a coast brake for greater convenience and safety.
The second speed, the necessity of which was doubted by one of your readers (Kirikov S.I., No. 127000), was very useful for non-hammer drilling of a plaster partition, as well as for boring holes for lock bolts in metal doors with abrasive nozzles and rinsing a mixer for putties. I hope that it will be useful for non-hammer drilling of holes for sockets with diamond core bits (but so far it has not been possible to test it).
Separately, I would like to note the safety clutch. Namely, it works at a fairly large torque.It is necessary to have a weight of about 95 kg so as not to turn over with the hammer drill. For the first three months it did not work at all, and the perforator “waved its handles” threateningly in front of my face. But in the end I heard its brisk cracking when drilling a metal corner 6 mm thick with a drill with a diameter of 19 mm (I understand that this is voluntarism). By the way, the drill chuck then tightened on the adapter so that it was no longer possible to unscrew it.
I even "boiled" the cartridge, after removing the plastic parts; I wanted to heat it up with a hairdryer, but I was afraid that the springs would “relax”. In the future, if I unscrew it, I think it will be enough to place the washer on the adapter before screwing on the cartridge. It seemed very useful that the depth gauge is located close to the drilling axis - the accuracy pleases. If it still had some kind of measuring scale, it would be perfect.
The additional handle is very comfortable and durable, but when assembled with a depth gauge, the choice of its positions is too small. After six months of work with a puncher, I wanted to make a "revision" of the mechanics. But, having removed the caps from the barrel and the upper operating mode switch, I realized that the structure is self-sufficient and without my intervention - let it work still.
Disassembling half of the main grip housing, I found that the control unit was Marquardt, not the original one. It would be good if information about components from other companies slipped through (for example, in the annotations to Interskol drills they focus on such things). This is useful when "aiming" at spare parts. Now, if they put Marquardt in my workshop, I, unknowingly, would be indignant - why not Kress?
The modular design used in the rock drill makes it much easier to care for it (in my case, it comes down to blowing all the parts with a compressor).
I could not appreciate the Klick-Box at its true worth, since I have nothing in my case apart from this puncher. I can only say that he has a small margin of safety - for neat people. My legs have already broken off half the width, and both on one side, in turn (now it falls to one side). But there is enough space in it for all the most running gear.
The rattling of the Boers in the place reserved for them was very disturbing. Therefore, an oak block was made with holes for shanks the size of a narrow part of the box. The drills are now securely in place. The same goes for drills. I haven’t come up with anything for the drill chuck - it is wrapped in a rag so that it doesn’t scratch on the borax. For the latter, I made silicone aprons so as not to dust on the standard rubber cap. By the way, I would like to have a rubber apron for ceiling work in the kit.
Maybe someone will use the technology for making aprons: I insert a drill (preferably with a diameter of 6 mm) into the barrel, liberally coat it and the rubber cap of the puncher with soapy water, apply silicone and form an apron from the cap to the end of the drill shank with fingers or a spatula dipped in soap water, and leave for a couple of days. When drilling with such an apron, the cap remains clean, and when changing tools, the drill lies on the apron with its tail up, does not smear and does not smear. The cable pleased me with its length and flexibility. The only caveat is that it is rather difficult to clean it from dust.
The thought slipped through that if there were any nodules on top of the case, or, on the contrary, the upper mode switch would not protrude beyond the dimensions of the case, then it would not scratch at all when the punch lies upside down with the handles. Mine, for example, got scratched. There are a few more problems - there is no service, it is difficult to get spare parts. And the human factor is decisive for us - there may be problems with the qualifications of "repairmen".
In general, I must admit, it is better than a hammer drill for such a price, of such quality, in this weight category and with such functions! Do not take this as flattery - just a subjective opinion.
Vivid reviews of the owners about Kress 1050 PXC, on the Sony Club mobile portal.Here you can not only read customer reviews, but also leave your review without registration.
I like: Power, indestructibility, you can work very quickly, does not jump in your hands like Bosch. Huge torque, the detachable cord is very comfortable and is quite long. I came with a handy keyless chuck. I do not like: Quite heavy - it is difficult to accurately “aim” with one hand, but this is a problem with all powerful hammer drills; price at the moment Review: For three years and so far so good. He lived for 3 extreme months during the repairs of the workers. There is enough foolishness to break off the heads of 8mm hardened self-tapping screws if you get stuck. bought 3 years ago for 6500 and for this price it is simply gorgeous.
The fact that someone broke something that he cannot name and in just a month, despite the fact that he has 2 Russian percussion drills that live for 8 years, makes me think about lies.
For many products, to work with the Kress 1050 PXC Set, you may need various additional files: drivers, patches, updates, installers. You can download online these files for a specific model of Kress 1050 PXC Set or add your own files for free download by other visitors.
If you did not find files and documents for this model, then you can look at the instructions for similar products and models, since they often differ in small changes and are complementary.
Be sure to write a few words about the product you purchased so that everyone can read your review or question. Be active so that as many people as possible could find out the opinion of real people who have already used the Kress 1050 PXC Set.
Su El: Cut the elastic in half lengthwise. Select the spring according to the cable diameter and length not less than the original rubber holder. The spring should sit tightly on the cable, we drive the spring with the cable into the rubber. The rubber can be boiled in boiling water for 5-10 minutes, this will try to restore elasticity. After this procedure, it will be possible to drive the spring into the rubber part. On top of the rubber and spring we put on a couple of pieces of heat shrink tube. Everything will be reliable and practical in this version. Bends and breaks in the cable can be avoided for a long time. Thanks for this video! There is very little information on kress. I still have a new one, so I don’t know his sores yet. I will take note of your advice!
Alexey Mamin: I have been using an excellent perf myself for 15 years. Kalinin where is the punching drill?
Eugeniy Noble: A good perf at that time, a lot of functional, because of this, many quickly went out of order, because no one reads the instructions. I'm still alive, I bought it in 2002, the year of issue is indicated on the nameplate on the right. The cable from the Pirelli company, the rubber outlet of the cord also broke, took it from Makita, who worked for about 5 years and the armature rear bearing crumbled as a result and the anchor itself suffered. Cress has the main problem with the upper mode switch, the plastic parts of the switch were frayed from concrete dust and the springs came out. without fixing in the desired position, the gears were eaten, after expensive repairs it was operated for 12 years only in the puncher mode, - drilling with 25 mm long drills up to a meter, passing the foundations of buildings, walls, ceilings, where a light puncher cannot be mastered, the clutch does not allow to work normally ... Currently switched to drilling only. I drill the socket boxes with a diamond crown.
Vyacheslav Verilov: All would be with such a screwdriver and unscrew such screws. Have you heard about torx?
By the way, I also had to repair this wire for the same reason, but at 750pxc (similar, only the engine is less powerful). But at the construction site of the house we used it in the tail and in the mane, and at its height we constantly lowered it up and down by a wire (like a rope). Now we take only for the body)
Evgeny Ponomarev: I was hoping for an overview of the punch, but I saw how you are mending a broken wire, and from the punch, only a little handle ..
Oleg Barinov: Such a perforator has been in operation since 1997, it does not lie, but it works, it has undergone 4 repairs, and more than 400 installed windows and balconies, I do not know at all how it can be broken.
alexkroh: but no need to wind the wire on the tool and everything will be gut
Andrey PANGOLINOV: Hasn't worked for over a year
Alex May: shit and not perf. covered myself in the first week
Brewer Mitrich: grease the plug with grease, it will be easier to remove
Vladlen Terezhe: 15 years PPC, you probably vryatli drilled a lot of holes larger than 6mm and worked a lot in one slotting mode
Andrey Kirilov: You can put a spring instead of an elastic band!
Rotary hammer Kress 1050 PXC
Regular 
Group: Users
Posts: 223
Registration: 10/30/2008
User #: 12481
In the process of work, he turned off himself. When turned on, it will run for 2 seconds and turn off. Was hot.
I thought the overheating protection was triggered, but after it has cooled down, the same thing happens.
There is also a slight crackle at startup.
Are the brushes covered and the overcurrent protection is triggered?
And it’s also interesting to know where it’s better to buy these brushes?
Post has been edited Gene – 30.6.2010, 15:33
Technical tourist
Group: Users
Posts: 12
Registration: 8.11.2008
User #: 13436
Newbie
Group: Users
Posts: 48
Registration: 30.9.2007
User #: 630
A typical problem for a Kresovsky kilowatt that is well loaded.
Unscrew the 3 bolts from the bottom. disassemble the spindle - pull the rotor out of the spindle housing. in the upper part above the bearing there is a magnetic ring of the speed sensor - it is damaged (it will either be split or twisted) put a new ring, assemble and work on. sometimes a couple of times a week this procedure has to be done.
This is all the price for a too long rotor and a too weak bearing block. There is not enough for 850 watts. 🙁
I usually grind the magnetic ring on a lathe half mm before installing it somewhere in order to reduce the likelihood of touching the case.
Attached is an explosion diagram. We are talking about part number 20, its number MAGNETING RING 6360, order number 35362, it costs around 130 rubles.
And there are also spare parts in the Makita service (expensive) or exler wholesale (cheaper) for Moscow.
You can also order directly from Kresi!
Post has been edited fly – 1.7.2010, 12:41
Regular
Group: Users
Posts: 223
Registration: 10/30/2008
User #: 12481
The magnetic ring is intact. It's just not clear how it works. It seems to be spinning. And it sits on the shaft with a gap, i.e. can scroll freely.
Tried without electronics directly, it turns without problems and there is no spark.
When working with electronics, a strong spark appears on the collector and it turns off immediately.
I think that the electronics block is covered. It costs 2000 rubles. So I think, maybe well, nafig this watercress.
Or maybe it can be used without electronics. Connect through a down trance and that's it.
Post has been edited Gene – 1.7.2010, 16:59
Lodger
Group: Users
Posts: 77
Registration: 8.9.2009
From: Moscow
User #: 29410
If from Moscow, then I will help
There is a killed Kres1050 with good electronics
I'll pay for beer 🙂
Post has been edited android – 1.7.2010, 18:47
Regular
Group: Users
Posts: 223
Registration: 10/30/2008
User #: 12481
Newbie
Group: Users
Posts: 48
Registration: 30.9.2007
User #: 630
So we read my message more attentively - split or CHECKED. you crank!
if you don’t believe - come to me - 500 rubles and he will twist if you are too lazy to believe that this is a sensor and change
I say I have several milling cutters in my work, I constantly change these sensors on them, this is a real problem.
It works simply - a magnet is spinning in the board and there is a small winding. EMF and that's it. by the magnitude of the EMF, it determines the revolutions. Your sensor is not spinning, but simply dangling.
if you don’t believe me - write in a personal and come. change.
Regular
Group: Users
Posts: 223
Registration: 10/30/2008
User #: 12481
Lodger
Group: Users
Posts: 77
Registration: 8.9.2009
From: Moscow
User #: 29410
So we read my message more attentively - split or CHECKED. you crank!
if you don’t believe - come to me - 500 rubles and he will twist if you are too lazy to believe that this is a sensor and change
I say I have several milling cutters in my work, I constantly change these sensors on them, this is a real problem.
It works simply - a magnet is spinning in the board and there is a small winding. EMF and that's it. by the magnitude of the EMF, it determines the revolutions. Your sensor is not spinning, but simply dangling.
if you don’t believe me - write in a personal and come. change.
And how to pull the shaft out of the bearings, if it's not a secret
Regular
Group: Users
Posts: 223
Registration: 10/30/2008
User #: 12481
Regular
Group: Users
Posts: 223
Registration: 10/30/2008
User #: 12481
- confused. Not removable. So it is pressed in. It should probably be removed with a puller.
I just can't understand why there is some kind of rubber on the bearing (in the diagram # 23) and what are the washers (# 21 and # 22) needed for?
Regular
Group: Users
Posts: 223
Registration: 10/30/2008
User #: 12481
Newbie
Group: Users
Posts: 48
Registration: 30.9.2007
User #: 630
The magnet is fixed with a tight fit on the loctite.
Regarding the temperature - see the brushes how much they spark - when they were pulled out, they could probably damage the brushes - if they removed the rotor without removing the brushes, then 100%.
it gets very hot and sparks when the brushes are worthless. the rotor and stator are well stocked and glued. drove it through the regulator from 220 directly with heavy loads and then it was not possible to burn a single one. only killed the bearings.
The upper elastic is needed there as a damper. if it stands firmly, it will simply break the plastic case. compressed washers, etc. just hold the elastic so that it does not crawl up onto the sensor.
It is not so difficult to press the rotor out of the collet. you need a press, an 8mm pin, and a mandrel to attach to the spindle (the place where the collet is inserted. (You can simply insert it into a metal bar with a hole and tighten it with a collet nut. Then the pin is inserted from the collet side and into the press.
In general, the construction there is quite simple and oak. Sometimes, several times a week, you have to go through everything, no matter how I'm going to buy normal spindles for machines. 🙁
Post has been edited fly – 3.7.2010, 18:04
Before buying Kress 1050 PXC, I want to read reviews of the owners about it, those people who have already bought and have been using the product for some time. On this page you can read the opinions of buyers about the product. After reading the reviews, study the characteristics, see the prices, check out the video reviews, select the online store and buy. If you are the owner of this device, then leave your feedback on the owners forum page. Average price: 2023 rub.
Advantages: Power, indestructibility, you can work very quickly, does not jump in your hands like Bosch. Huge torque, the detachable cord is very comfortable and is quite long. I came with a handy keyless chuck.
Disadvantages: Quite heavy - hard to aim accurately with one hand, but this is a problem with all powerful hammer drills price at the moment
Commentary: It's been three years now and so far so good. He lived for 3 extreme months during the repairs of the workers. There is enough foolishness to break off the heads of 8mm hardened self-tapping screws if you get stuck. bought 3 years ago for 6500 and for this price it is simply gorgeous.
The fact that someone broke something that he cannot name and in just a month, despite the fact that he has 2 Russian percussion drills that live for 8 years, makes me think about lies.
Advantages: Powerful, light enough, adjustments for all use cases, very unpretentious, repairable, good komplektatsiya. In operation since 2001. Bought himself within 2 days.
Commentary: If you need a reliable professional machine related to work on the profile of this tool, take it! You will not regret it!
Advantages: Power, indestructibility, you can work very quickly, does not jump in your hands like Bosch. Huge torque, the detachable cord is very comfortable and is quite long. I came with a handy keyless chuck.
Disadvantages: Quite heavy - it is difficult to accurately “aim” with one hand, but this is a problem with all powerful hammer drills; price at the moment
Commentary: It's been three years now and so far so good. He lived for 3 extreme months during the repairs of the workers. There is enough foolishness to break off the heads of 8mm hardened self-tapping screws if you get stuck. bought 3 years ago for 6500 and for this price it is simply gorgeous.
The fact that someone broke something that he cannot name and in just a month, despite the fact that he has 2 Russian percussion drills that live for 8 years, makes me think about lies.
Advantages: Powerful enough for the home, pleasant to work with, optimal modes.
Disadvantages: Out of order after a week of work.
Commentary: I used it carefully, did not overload - it broke something that should not have broken under any circumstances. There is no service of this company in our city, although there is an authorized service center. After 3 weeks, run around the rem. the workshops were finally able to acquire the parts. I will never buy a tool from this company again. The site claims that their tool is professional, which is why I bought it. I had a Chinese grinder for 1 year before the first breakdown, two Russian percussion drills of the same brand work for 8 and 5 years without breakdowns.
I would like to share my impressions of the work of the Kress 1050 PXC. I needed a light hammer drill with a clean impact function for corrective chiselling, always a professional one. I have already worked Bosch GBH 2-24 DFR, DeWALT DW566, Makita HR 2400. I decided to take Kress.
Basically, after learning from your magazine about the anniversary of Kress and anniversary models, I wanted to buy the Kress PSE 75 Edition. But, as it turned out, there are no sellers in Donetsk who officially trade the instrument of this company, and those who called themselves official did not hear anything about the anniversary, they did not see the anniversary models and did not support any shares. The Kress 1050 PXC costs $ 320. I had to contact the smugglers ...
I chose Kress 1050 PXC for the following reasons.
1. Price - for that kind of money, other manufacturers do not have those positions that are so important to me.
2. The ratio of "weight-power" and "weight-impact energy" (one could take the cheap middle and light classes, but I would lose in professionalism and mobility).
3. The reverse ring switch, in my opinion, is much more reliable than the lever overhead switch.
4. Spaced mode switches are theoretically simpler and therefore more reliable.
5. Presetting the rotation speed with the trigger wheel is very useful for mixing adhesives and putties and for screwdriving.
6. Two speeds of drilling.
7. Detachable network cable - not the main position, but, as it turned out, very convenient.
Of course, the Kress 750 PXC quite satisfies all these requirements, but the $ 20 difference seemed insignificant against the power difference.
When buying, I wanted to have an original thing, and therefore I paid attention to all the little things. For example, following the directions in your magazine, I looked for the word "Pirelli" on the cable. Something else was written there, but the traders "rummaged" in the rest of the Kress tools, found me a 4 m long "Pirelli" cable. The Rohm drill chuck with adapter was tested for axial runout. The quality of the cartridge itself was not in doubt, since Rohm cartridges have been working properly for a long time on my other instruments. But with the adapter, it looks like the overlay came out.
When I bought a hammer drill and tried out a chuck with an adapter, there was no axial runout, just as there was no backlash. But, getting down to work, I was surprised, turning into hysteria, found the axial beating of the drill chuck. It turned out that in one of the two positions there are no beats, but when the adapter is turned 180 degrees in the barrel, these appear. And I "sin" on the adapter because the drills (DeWALT Extreme 2) do not hit at all.
In addition, I would like to especially note the quality of the plastic (its resistance to scratches and the ability to clean almost to its original state), unseen before on the tool of other companies. Apparently (there was no passport in Russian), the perforator maintains speed under load, which does not allow "gas". The instrument turned out to be "thoughtful" and with great inertia. Ideally, we would like to have a coast brake for greater convenience and safety.
The second speed, the necessity of which was doubted by one of your readers (Kirikov S.I., No. 127000), was very useful for non-hammer drilling of a plaster partition, as well as for boring holes for lock bolts in metal doors with abrasive nozzles and rinsing a mixer for putties. I hope that it will be useful for non-hammer drilling of holes for sockets with diamond core bits (but so far it has not been possible to test it).
Separately, I would like to note the safety clutch. Namely, it works at a fairly large torque. It is necessary to have a weight of about 95 kg so as not to turn over with the hammer drill. For the first three months it did not work at all, and the perforator “waved its handles” threateningly in front of my face. But in the end I heard its brisk cracking when drilling a metal corner 6 mm thick with a drill with a diameter of 19 mm (I understand that this is voluntarism). By the way, the drill chuck then tightened on the adapter so that it was no longer possible to unscrew it.
I even "boiled" the cartridge, after removing the plastic parts; I wanted to heat it up with a hairdryer, but I was afraid that the springs would “relax”. In the future, if I unscrew it, I think it will be enough to place the washer on the adapter before screwing on the cartridge. It seemed very useful that the depth gauge is located close to the drilling axis - the accuracy pleases. If it still had some kind of measuring scale, it would be perfect.
The additional handle is very comfortable and durable, but when assembled with a depth gauge, the choice of its positions is too small. After six months of work with a puncher, I wanted to make a "revision" of the mechanics. But, having removed the caps from the barrel and the upper operating mode switch, I realized that the structure is self-sufficient and without my intervention - let it work still.
Disassembling half of the main grip housing, I found that the control unit was Marquardt, not the original one. It would be good if information about components from other companies slipped through (for example, in the annotations to Interskol drills they focus on such things). This is useful when "aiming" at spare parts. Now, if they put Marquardt in my workshop, I, unknowingly, would be indignant - why not Kress?
The modular design used in the rock drill makes it much easier to care for it (in my case, it comes down to blowing all the parts with a compressor).
I could not appreciate the Klick-Box at its true worth, since I have nothing in my case apart from this puncher. I can only say that he has a small margin of safety - for neat people. My legs have already broken off half the width, and both on one side, in turn (now it falls to one side). But there is enough space in it for all the most running gear.
The rattling of the Boers in the place reserved for them was very disturbing. Therefore, an oak block was made with holes for shanks the size of a narrow part of the box. The drills are now securely in place. The same goes for drills. I haven’t come up with anything for the drill chuck - it is wrapped in a rag so that it doesn’t scratch on the borax. For the latter, I made silicone aprons so as not to dust on the standard rubber cap. By the way, I would like to have a rubber apron for ceiling work in the kit.
Maybe someone will use the technology for making aprons: I insert a drill (preferably 6 mm in diameter) into the barrel, liberally coat it and the rubber cap of the puncher with soapy water, apply silicone and form an apron from the cap to the end of the drill shank with fingers or a spatula dipped in soap water, and leave for a couple of days.When drilling with such an apron, the cap remains clean, and when changing tools, the drill lies on the apron with its tail up, does not smear and does not smear. The cable pleased me with its length and flexibility. The only caveat is that it is rather difficult to clean it from dust.
The thought slipped through that if there were any nodules on top of the case, or, on the contrary, the upper mode switch would not protrude beyond the dimensions of the case, then it would not scratch at all when the punch lies upside down with the handles. Mine, for example, got scratched. There are a few more problems - there is no service, it is difficult to get spare parts. And the human factor is decisive for us - there may be problems with the qualifications of "repairmen".
|
Video (click to play). |
In general, I must admit, there is no better perforator for such a price, of such quality, in this weight category and with such functions! Do not take this as flattery - just a subjective opinion.
