Details: krups xp 5020 DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Operating instructions for the Krups xp4000 coffee machine with pictures in English and Russian in pdf format download.
One of the brands of coffee machines is the German company krups. The Krups xp4000 coffee maker is positioned as a semi-professional coffee machine for making espresso and cappuccino coffee. But the machine prepares these two types of coffee very professionally thanks to the high pressure pump that raises the water pressure to 15 bar. The essence of the method is simple - first, a heating element (heat-electric heater) is heated, then cold water is passed through it. The water heats up quickly and is discharged through the coffee tablet into the cups. Usually coffee is brewed in Turks, but this is not the case here.
Outwardly, the croup looks bulky and angular.
The label in the form of a sticker tells that the product is made in China. The company itself krups is located in Germany, but like many companies is trying to reduce production costs by assembling and manufacturing parts in China. Voltage 220 V indicates that the product is made for Europe. The power of the heating element is 1.3 kW. In standby mode, the machine will suck a lot of electricity. All energy is spent on maintaining the temperature of the heating element at the same level.
When inspecting the machine, everything seems to be clear and there is no need to expect surprises from the filling. But a complete surprise for me was the presence of a circuit on the mikruhe at the bottom of the xp4000. The circuit, although placed in a niche, is not protected from moisture ingress. The main purpose of the circuit is to turn the pump on and off. The circuit is not capable of more.
The circuit was clearly soldered by hand by Chinese specialists. It is strange that many of the details overlap. Either this is how the Germans design and imagine the future of cybernetics, or this is a Chinese self-propeller. The quality of the soldering leaves much to be desired and the board is practically non-repairable. The question was the 2P5M thyristor to control the activation of the pump. But although the thyristor controls the turn-on process, it cuts off part of the lower half-wave. In this case, the voltage peaks do not decrease, but the voltage form itself turns out to be asymmetric, which, in principle, is not a buzz. Datasheet for the applied thyristor 2P5M in pdf format download.
Video (click to play). |
There are letters denoting it under the sticker on the mikruh. The marking is very strange. In other words, a thoroughly Chinese microcircuit.
I soldered the thick diode myself, not the manufacturers. In addition, I evaporated the thyristor itself.
Disassembling krups xp4000 is quite simple - there are many screws, but all are unscrewed. All self-tapping screws for a positive screwdriver (cross), but the very first four from the bottom cover are a head with an asterisk. Made by a Chinese specialist so that housewives do not open it. The assembly is more difficult - trimming in plastic and each must fit into its own groove. The main part of the coffee maker is a heating element heater, combined with a water distributor. The handle switches the direction of the water and closes the limit switches.
The heater is equipped with heating sensors and a thermal cutout. The fuse is crammed into a white thermotube. By the way, all wires are heat-resistant, i.e. their insulation does not withstand the standard 65 C, but a little more - 150 C.
The sensors are sharpened for a certain temperature - they turn on and off the heating element.
The power button is embedded in a plastic holder. By the way, I could not remove the button from the holder. The button often wedges, but this is often solved with the help of VD-40, a screwdriver and a hammer.
The pump is small and powerful. It is better not to disassemble the pump if the system is not leaking. The fact is that the pressure in the system is high, but sealing the joints is quite difficult work.
The inlet pipe is put on the flask. A container with water is inserted into the flask. This is where problems often arise.The flask is inserted, but no water flows to the pump. The easiest way is to insert the flask once, and then simply pour water into it without removing it. Most likely, it was not without design problems.
Initially, the coffee maker was in standby mode and maintained the temperature in the heater. Then cotton was distributed and water flowed out of the container into the sump. Then the pump turned on. After turning the coffee machine off and on again, the pump did not turn off, but continued to work. No water was pouring out. I had to disassemble the whole machine. The scheme on krups xp4000 was not available on the network and I had to draw everything from nature with pens.
The "Start" button turns on and off the machine from the network. A temperature cutout "t" protects the entire system against fire and uncontrolled heating. Temperature sensors "T1" and "T2" maintain the temperature of the heating element at the same level. Motor "M" - pump motor. "Mk" - microswitches on the heating element itself, which are pressed by the rotary mechanism for selecting the operating mode. Arrows indicate connection to the board.
After sketching the diagram, it became clear that you can do without a control board. One wire connecting the heating element and the normally open contacts of the limit switches is disconnected from the heating element and connected to the pump. The wire connecting the pump and the normally closed contacts of the limit switches is removed. The pump is connected via a diode to the neutral mains wire.
I did not put a diode. Let the half-waves be symmetrical.
That's all the improvement. After all the transformations done - rearranging the wires and completely removing the control board, the coffee machine started working. The pump works stably, the temperature of the heating element is maintained at the proper level. The pump control board is bolted to the cost and adds significantly to the cost.
The essence of the breakdown - the coffee machine started leaking while making coffee. Moisture appears in the drip tray, the coffee tablet is damp. In this model, the brewing unit is non-removable, which somewhat complicates the repair. Indeed, to dismantle it or for visual inspection, you need to disassemble the case and remove the case panels.
First of all, you need to remove containers, containers and water tank. Then, in the upper part, unscrew 5 screws with a hex wrench - two in the container for coffee beans, 1 under it and a couple closer to the front panel.
Then you need to unscrew the two screws with the same hexagon at the base of the coffee machine on the back wall.
The screws on the bezel are hidden under a decorative chrome strip, which is fastened with snaps. Removing the panel is easy - just pull it towards you.
The next step is to remove the top cover - you need to grab it by the front and pull it up with a little effort.
Under the cover we see the cause of the breakdown - problems with the piston and O-rings.
Dismantling the piston is simple - you need to remove the tube and unscrew the piston fastening screw with the same hexagon and then carefully pull out the piston itself.
Particular attention should be paid to ensure that the spring that cleans the groove through which the ground coffee is poured from the coffee grinder does not come off or get lost.
Then we start cleaning the piston with a special tool. First of all, you need to disassemble the piston - pull out the membrane, strainer and valve. They will also have to be cleaned and washed. The rings also need to be replaced. In our case, the old ring turned out to be defective — part of it broke off, which led to leakage. But from the appearance of the insides, it is clear that the cleaning of the coffee machine was carried out very, very rarely.
After the piston and strainer are cleaned, the machine is washed from the inside, you need to assemble the piston and put it back in place, after having lubricated the new rings.
After installation, we assemble the coffee machine in the reverse order and proceed to testing - we brew a cup of coffee and look at the state of the coffee tablet in the cake compartment, check if there are any spills in the tray.
If everything is done correctly, we can state that the do-it-yourself repair of the Krups XP coffee machine after the flow has been completed successfully
Repair of the Krups XP 5020 coffee machine in a short time.We eliminate faults of any complexity with a guarantee of the quality of components and work performed.
- Replacing the fuser sensor
- Replacing the control unit
- Decalcification
- Replacing the fuser
- Boiler repair
- Component recovery
- Power board repair
- Replacing the engine
- Replacing the transformer
- Replacing the control unit
- Replacing the water tank
- Boiler replacement
- Replacing O-rings
- Descaling the hydraulic system
- Pump repair
- Replacing the drain valve
- Cleaning the coffee system
- Removing coffee oils
- Pump repair
- Repair of the brew unit
- Pump repair
- Replacing the fuser
- Cleaning the coffee dispensers
- Cleaning the coffee system
- Repair of the brewing unit
- Cleaning with disassembly of the coffee machine
- Repair of the brewing mechanism
- Replacing tubes
- Replacing the coffee grinder
- Replacing or installing a filter
- Cleaning the water supply system
- Pump repair
- Hydraulic system repair
- Replacing O-rings
- Replacing the water sensor
- Replacing the millstones
- Replacing the coffee grinder
- Coffee grinder repair
- Replacing the grinder motor
- Repair of the control board
- Repair of the control unit
- Replacing the power cord
- Removing coffee oils
- Cleaning dispensers
- Hydraulic system repair
- Cleaning with disassembly of the coffee machine
- Setup and programming
- Replacing the control module
- Replacing the fuser sensor
- Replacing the steam block sensor
- Replacing the cappuccino maker
- Cleaning the water supply system
- Replacing the millstones
- Replacing the filter
- Replacing the steam valve
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Our service and repair company is the market leader in servicing coffee machines Krups XP 5020. In our repair shop, your coffee machine will receive a range of quality services from qualified experts. The specialist will carry out a diagnostic check, during which he will quickly find the source of the device's malfunction and report the price and time of the procedures. If you agree with the stated terms, the engineer will begin repair work. You can provide the transportation of the coffee machine to our courier department - the courier will arrive at the appointed time and quickly transport the coffee machine to the repair shop.
We promptly respond to requests from the site
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After your confirmation, we make repairs
Checking the device and issuing a guarantee for up to 1 year
1 cm), does not ring out too much. I know this often happens with this model. Maybe someone came across.
kotiy, when the button is turned on, the pump should drive water into the pan for 2-3 seconds, and then it will stop and turn on the heating of the heating element. And when you turn on the network, your pump constantly works and drives water into the sump, as far as I understand? Or does the initial cycle work out correctly, and when the coffee delivery button is turned on, water does not flow into the cup, but into the sump?
When turned on, the initial cycle passes, heats up, all buttons light up (enters the operating mode). When you press the button, it starts to drive water into the pan. It is such an impression that the triac does not open and the valve does not work (it does not receive a spill, it is checked). But as I wrote, it is not easy to check it, like everything else. the board was filled with varnish conscientiously. He climbed up with needles, rang, like a worker. The relay on the power board is working.
To believe by substituting a working triac, you need to "pick out" the varnish, but you don't want to make a byak.
kotiywhether the solenoid valve winding is open (about 2.5 kOhm should ring). If the valve winding is open, the triac will not open and no voltage will be applied to it.
kotiy, try changing the triac, replacing the module will not help.
I feel that I need to pick out the varnish and change the triac, by the way it is controlled by the moc3041. Maybe she flew out after all? In general, until tomorrow I will think about the 3rd option (if any). Then I'll pick
I changed the triac, and at the same time the moc (it was at hand). Steam is working
I cleaned the valves, stretched the springs. Now everything is ok!
Thanks to everyone, especially "Sergey Moderator"
Hello!
I have a similar problem, only, as Sergey wrote, the pump is constantly working and drives water into the sump. The model of the coffee maker is slightly different XP 4020 Tell me, what could be the problem?
Anarki, in this model, with this malfunction, 220 kilos cutters are cut off (see the module, which stands at the bottom of the coffee maker. Cutters stand "upside down" on the edge of the board and are filled with yellow muck).
If the cutters are in order, then one of the mikriks, located at the top near the knob of the mode switches, does not work.
In fact, the reason is in the valves.
A similar problem, most of the boiling water flies into the pan.
there is also a suspicion that the problem is in the valves of excessive steam pressure. or whatever they are. who knows, is it somehow treated?
griffon, yes the sore of these models. The bottom line of the problem is that water must be supplied under a certain pressure, otherwise it (water) is vented through the side valves into the pan. Sometimes cleaning or removing the filter immediately after the reservoir helps.
Thanks for the advice, I'll try.
It's just that these valves are not everywhere in coffee makers (or rather, I have not seen them in the design of other manufacturers), and their purpose is a dark forest, especially in the fact that the pallet is still called “for drops and spilled coffee”.
Sergey, do not tell me, where did you find the service manual for these devices?
Just as an engineer I would like to figure it out. For example, why are two valves and are practically in series.
And if you throw out one?
griffon, the manual is just an assembly drawing.
One valve was thrown out, the water was vented into the pan through the other valve. The purpose of the valves is to bleed excess steam into the pan. But the designers of the system were flawed and it turns out that if there is insufficient pressure, the main water (boiling water) is vented through the side outlets (designed to bleed off excess steam).
For some time, the removal of the filter sump helped (as I wrote above), since because of it the pump did not create the required pressure. But then this action did not help either.
So I have a question open about these krasalets.
Thank you, Sergey!
Let's dig.
And with whom of the services no one communicated, no one can really enlighten what these valves are for and what their characteristics are.
Can't the pump itself be naughty? if you speak, the pressure is weak.
That is, I want to say that since the valves are located after the ten and the solenoid valve (steam / boiling water), then the pressure on them, it turns out, is affected by the total -pump + steam pressure.
It is necessary to try to plug the outlet of the first valve, because in the second, the pressure should be higher - sufficient to open the first valve. What do you think? Or is it a rake already passed?
griffon, I changed the pump - it does not help.
Is it useless to clean and change the valves?
The pressure would be measured.
Judging by the design, water should be vented with a pressure below the design
griffon, you argue correctly, I did not go too deep into theory (no time)
The flaps are usually not clogged. There is no point in changing them, since they are collapsible.
Try the option with cleaning (removing) the filter after the tank (and there are also holes in the flowmeter that get clogged with debris)
By the way, in one coffee maker, I solved the problem by increasing the hole in the flowmeter. but the dosage of coffee increased.
Sergey, I'm sorry lamer, that there is a flowmeter and where can I find it?
griffon, the flowmeter is located near the drain pump, the box is white.
... so, someone will tell you how to solve this problem.
lvibog, the service center will solve this problem.
The service center has been fooling around for almost a month. In vain, in vain I contacted SC.
I have XP4020. Symptoms: in operating mode, the pump turns on and off randomly.
I have no schema. Looks like the relay in the pump control circuit is open?
Similar manifestations were in the iron with the Boom steam generator. I immediately decided not to wear it in the SC. The problem was the “intermittent” break in the pump relay coil. Repair - took 3 minutes and a penny cost. To hell with her, with a guarantee. Nerves are more expensive.
But with the coffee maker, I got excited.
Hello,
I have XP 4050, symptoms like kotiy :
enters the operating mode, when you press the button, it starts to drive water into the sump.
I don't understand anything about coffee makers, so I didn't go beyond the back cover. (before that, it was not repaired in two services)
* What is and where solenoid valve coil is that what is indicated by the arrows?
* What triac were you talking about: the first or the second?
* What else is worth checking out?
ps: unsoldered these two wires - between them 0
alex-er, leave the module alone, the problem is in the mechanical valves that are located near the heater and which both need to be replaced with new ones.
at f300, The problem is either in mikrik on switching modes or in the pump activation board.
Sergei, thanks for the quick reply, can you somehow check what exactly this valve is? The fact is that the coffee maker worked perfectly for a year, the problem appeared after I filled it with water while washing it. Now all the water that should go through the horn goes into the sump.
I think we need to get to the valves and check that they are energized ..
alex-er, I repeat once again, there are mechanical valves, the plastic of which crumbles from our water and all sorts of small springs and pins come out. As a result, that part of the MECHANICAL valve, which should release excess steam pressure from the boiler into the sump, passes all the water that the pump drives to the heater.
checked the mechanical valves - visually normal, removed the bleed, disassembled - no visible damage.
The HOT WATER / STEAM function is working for me. If I drew the diagram correctly, then it should not work with faulty valves.
Question: How is the solenoid valve controlled?
Its marking:
BLAB Series 6000-9000 Code 6000BH / K5FV 230V / 50Hz
alex-er, the solenoid valve, when 220 Volts is supplied to it, redirects the water (steam) supply to the cappuccino nozzle. And water is drained into the pan due to faulty mechanical valves (just change to new ones). Also, clean or remove the filter sump between the flowmeter and the reservoir.
Sergei, thanks, you were right - these are valves
here in disassembled form
But I did not change them - I took out, disassembled, assembled and everything worked (probably the prices were scared)
I found out: you can buy new ones in
price 783 rubles per piece (
$ 26). out of stock, order up to 120 days.
By the way, this is the service in which I originally carried the coffee maker - I lay there for two weeks, 400 rubles for diagnostics, diagnosis: three boards burned out, here is the conclusion
In the second service, the PIC controller was said to have burned out.
here is available for 683r (
found an assembly drawing (with SKUs) schema.jpg
my photos of the disassembled coffee maker: photos
I have the same problem, only the valves are located differently from the photo, i.e. in reverse order
A photo in which everything is visible without comments 🙂
What is the best way to check a flowmeter? There is a suspicion that he does not give a signal to the controller.
griffon, oscilloscope
I also have XP-4050. Such a problem. For a few seconds, coffee is poured into the cup, and then there is a pop and water begins to whistle under pressure from under the horn. I thought it was a sealing gasket, I replaced it. Nothing has changed. Can anyone come across such a problem?
My coffee maker has an absolutely similar problem. If anyone knows what - tell me.
Looks like finely ground coffee
Good afternoon. I have a similar problem, the coffee is of the same grinding, I tried to clean the mesh in the cone, but it did not help. What to do?
The post has been moved to a separate topic
sl_apthanks for the beer and the rest. We close, without emotion, create our own theme and preferably fill out the profile.
Sergei, there is a Krups XP 4050 Coffee Maker.The thermistor on the heating element has burned out. please tell me its face value.
B0BAN, I have XP7240. measured the thermistor: in a cold state 120k, heated with a hairdryer to 90 degrees - 40k, cooled down - 95k. so, count, 100k.
looks like that. some kind of muddy, but, it seems, alive.
What is a good and high-quality coffee machine for? Of course, for aromatic hot coffee in the morning. The brewing process of this wonderful drink is almost completely automated and requires minimal human intervention. The filling of the device implies the presence of many mechanical parts, electronic circuits, as well as a miniature hydraulic system. However, everything soon fails and these necessary devices are no exception. In the event of a breakdown of coffee machines, there are only two options: take it to the service or repair the coffee machine yourself.
- Water supply interrupted. There is a blockage in the pipeline of the mechanism;
- The coffee has acquired an unusual smell or taste. In this case, it is not always necessary to fix something with your own hands. Perhaps you just need to change the coffee tablets, and there is a very wide selection of them: Dolce Gusto - Dolce Gusto, Nestlé, Jacobs, etc. Alternatively, the filter of the coffee machine may be clogged. Cheap plastic can be another factor affecting the taste and smell of coffee. During operation, some parts of the machine heat up to 130 degrees, which can cause the plastic to melt;
- Cold coffee. Most likely, your heating element has stopped working;
- The espresso machine is not working. Many factors can affect this: the motor is broken, the pump does not work, the power cable is broken;
- Water dosage exceeded (most often found in capsule coffee machines). Most likely, the breakdown lies in the engine or in the timer circuit.
- The brewing time setting circuit does not work or the dosage into the cup is incorrectly adjusted. Of course, you need to focus on the model of the device and its brand, but a common reason is the improper operation of the engine control circuit, or one of its compartments.
If you are not sure that the repair of the coffee machine is within your power, then it is better to refer it to specialists. If the device is under warranty, then it is not worth disassembling it at all, it will instantly lose the warranty.
To repair the coffee machine, first you need to disassemble it. And how to do it correctly, step by step is described below.
- It is necessary to find the back wall of the device, or rather the set screws. Unscrew with a screwdriver, pliers or whatever is at hand and is ideal for such work, set aside. It is worth noting that there may be several options for screws. They can be hidden, cruciform, or with a convex head;
- The screws are removed, it is logical that the cover should be easily removed. However, if it cannot be removed, then there are hidden locks in the case. Most often these are ordinary plastic latches and they are located at the bottom of the back cover. From the outside, such a lock can be easily opened with a knife or a small screwdriver;
- Finally, access to the "insides" of the machine has been obtained, it's time to start repairing it.
And so let's go in order. There is a blockage in the water supply pipe. In such coffee machines as: Delongee, Bork - Bork, Ariete - Ariete and others, cleaning is done using a long and thin rubber hose. It must be run along the duct and thereby break through the blockage. However, it will be much more effective to use special brushes on a flexible leg.
It is a little more difficult to clean the filter with your own hands. With frequent use of the coffee machine, the filter accumulates: scale, coffee residues, salt plugs, etc. Cleaning must be approached carefully, but the most important thing is to do it according to the instructions, otherwise you can violate the integrity of the part. In the process, it is allowed to use a soft swab sprinkled with alcohol. Rinse the filter thoroughly after cleaning.
If you are unable to solve the problem yourself, contact a Saeco espresso machine repair center.
The coffee machines of the firms Mulinex, Krups, Roventa, Saeko have another problem - water leaks.In them, the valve regulating the water supply is located practically in the filter. If the coffee does not stop pouring, most likely a worn valve is to blame, which leads to this phenomenon.
The valve cannot be repaired; in this case, only replacement with another new part is available. To understand whether the valve has broken, it is enough to pour coffee out of the machine, disassemble, rinse and inspect well for possible breakdown.
- Initially, it is worth checking if everything is in order with the power supply. See if the cable is broken, check the grounding.
- It also happens that household coffee machines produced in China simply lose contacts (they go away). Such cases were encountered with more famous brands: zauber, melitta, trevi. It is enough to check all the wire connections with the control circuit.
- A common case for Senseo¸Siemens, Ufesa machines, they have low-quality thermostats built into them. To diagnose it, you need to remove one wire from its end and "ring" the contacts with a tester. If all is well, then the chain will be closed.
- The heating element may also fail. Diagnostics is carried out in the same way as a thermostat. Replacing it with a new one is difficult, it will be easier to try to repair or buy a new coffee machine.
- Very often, on the shelves next to the coffee machine, all the necessary accessories are sold that you will certainly need for the correct operation of the device. And for cleaning technical parts, it is definitely advised to buy special flexible brushes.
The principle of operation and repair of capsule coffee machines is slightly different from drip coffee machines. A small container of coffee powder is attached to the inside of the machine, the piercing mechanism is manually clamped. After use, the capsule is disposed of. Inside such devices, most often there are no temperature sensors, but there is an ordinary pump that runs on a timer. The water flow rate has been calculated in advance. If the water supply is carried out with the wrong dosage, then the time supply circuit may have broken.
Repair of coffee makers often does not depend on the brand or model; in general, they differ only in nuances. This can be the shape, as well as the location of parts, size, different types of sensors. The very principle of operation of the coffee machine does not change.
Any professional inspection for breakage always starts with the cord. It makes no difference whether it is a capsule or drip coffee machine repair. Then the power board is checked (if any), it is worth noting that the coffee machine has a lot of filters, diode bridges, and also transistors. All this must be inspected for burnout. This is the only way to recognize the true cause of the equipment malfunctioning.
Operating instructions for the Krups xp4000 coffee machine with pictures in English and Russian in pdf format.
One of the brands of coffee machines is the German company krups. The Krups xp4000 coffee maker is positioned as a semi-professional coffee machine for making espresso and cappuccino coffee. But the machine prepares these two types of coffee very professionally thanks to the high pressure pump that raises the water pressure to 15 bar. The essence of the method is simple - first, a heating element (heat-electric heater) is heated, then cold water is passed through it. The water heats up quickly and is discharged through the coffee tablet into the cups. Usually coffee is brewed in Turks, but this is not the case here.
Outwardly, the croup looks bulky and angular.
The label in the form of a sticker tells that the product is made in China. The company itself krups is located in Germany, but like many companies is trying to reduce production costs by assembling and manufacturing parts in China. Voltage 220 V indicates that the product is made for Europe. The power of the heating element is 1.3 kW. In standby mode, the machine will suck a lot of electricity. All energy is spent on maintaining the temperature of the heating element at the same level.
When inspecting the machine, everything seems to be clear and there is no need to expect surprises from the filling. But a complete surprise for me was the presence of a circuit on the mikruhe at the bottom of the xp4000. The circuit, although placed in a niche, is not protected from moisture ingress. The main purpose of the circuit is to turn the pump on and off.The circuit is not capable of more.
The circuit was clearly soldered by hand by Chinese specialists. It is strange that many of the details overlap. Either this is how the Germans design and imagine the future of cybernetics, or this is a Chinese self-propeller. The quality of the soldering leaves much to be desired and the board is practically non-repairable. The question was the 2P5M thyristor to control the activation of the pump. But although the thyristor controls the turn-on process, it cuts off part of the lower half-wave. In this case, the voltage peaks do not decrease, but the voltage form itself turns out to be asymmetric, which, in principle, is not a buzz. Datasheet for applied thyristor 2P5M in pdf format.
There are letters denoting it under the sticker on the mikruh. The marking is very strange. In other words, a thoroughly Chinese microcircuit.
I soldered the thick diode myself, not the manufacturers. In addition, I evaporated the thyristor itself.
Disassembling krups xp4000 is quite simple - there are many screws, but all are unscrewed. All self-tapping screws for a positive screwdriver (cross), but the very first four from the bottom cover are a head with an asterisk. Made by a Chinese specialist so that housewives do not open it. The assembly is more difficult - trimming in plastic and each must fit into its own groove. The main part of the coffee maker is a heating element heater, combined with a water distributor. The handle switches the direction of the water and closes the limit switches.
The heater is equipped with heating sensors and a thermal cutout. The fuse is crammed into a white thermotube. By the way, all wires are heat-resistant, i.e. their insulation does not withstand the standard 65 C, but a little more - 150 C.
The sensors are sharpened for a certain temperature - they turn on and off the heating element.
The power button is embedded in a plastic holder. By the way, I could not remove the button from the holder. The button often wedges, but this is often solved with the help of VD-40, a screwdriver and a hammer.
The pump is small and powerful. It is better not to disassemble the pump if the system is not leaking. The fact is that the pressure in the system is high, but sealing the joints is quite difficult work.
The inlet pipe is put on the flask. A container with water is inserted into the flask. This is where problems often arise. The flask is inserted, but no water flows to the pump. The easiest way is to insert the flask once, and then simply pour water into it without removing it. Most likely, it was not without design problems.
Initially, the coffee maker was in standby mode and maintained the temperature in the heater. Then cotton was distributed and water flowed out of the container into the sump. Then the pump turned on. After turning the coffee machine off and on again, the pump did not turn off, but continued to work. No water was pouring out. I had to disassemble the whole machine. The scheme on krups xp4000 was not available on the network and I had to draw everything from nature with pens.
The "Start" button turns on and off the machine from the network. A temperature cutout "t" protects the entire system against fire and uncontrolled heating. Temperature sensors "T1" and "T2" maintain the temperature of the heating element at the same level. Motor "M" - pump motor. "Mk" - microswitches on the heating element itself, which are pressed by the rotary mechanism for selecting the operating mode. Arrows indicate connection to the board.
After sketching the diagram, it became clear that you can do without a control board. One wire connecting the heating element and the normally open contacts of the limit switches is disconnected from the heating element and connected to the pump. The wire connecting the pump and the normally closed contacts of the limit switches is removed. The pump is connected via a diode to the neutral mains wire.
I did not put a diode. Let the half-waves be symmetrical.
That's all the improvement. After all the transformations done - rearranging the wires and completely removing the control board, the coffee machine started working. The pump works stably, the temperature of the heating element is maintained at the proper level. The pump control board is bolted to the cost and adds significantly to the cost.
The specialists of our service center will carry out free diagnostics of the Krups XP 5020 coffee machine, identify the malfunction and make repairs at the lowest price in Moscow. repair of the pump of the Krups XP 5020 coffee machines - quickly, efficiently with a guarantee.
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The other day it happened that my capsule coffee machine Krups KP 1002 (1006/1009) (description of the coffee machine), sold under the Nescafe Dolce Gusto brand, stopped working. The breakdown was expressed in the fact that the machine did not pump water from the tank and, accordingly, did not pour coffee. A characteristic feature of this breakdown was also the changed sound of its operation. Instead of the usual loud noisy pouring of coffee, the coffee machine barely grumbled. Yes, and more - not long before that the coffee maker also began to leak.
Turning on - turning off the Krups KP 1002 from the network, pressing all the levers and buttons, I was already resigned that the coffee machine broke down and it was time to throw it away. However, an inquisitive mind sent me to the Internet, where I read that all modern coffee machines must be descaled. For one thing, the coffee machine must be in working order.
To be honest, the water in our area is pretty bad. After the filter, a lot of limescale remains in the kettle. Perhaps this is the reason why my Nescafe Dolce Gusto no longer pumps water. As it turned out later, I was right. The reason that the coffee machine broke down was precisely the scale. An indicator that you have the same problem is the increase in the coffee preparation time. It takes longer and longer to cook. These are all symptoms of the same disease and you urgently need cleaning to help prevent repairs. But more on that below.
I will not tell you how I tried to clean the typewriter. Later it turned out that everything is very simple. Therefore, I offer you a ready-made repair manual right away if your coffee machine no longer pumps water, does not pour coffee.
Hurray, almost a victory. Almost, because you need to do a complete descaling to remove its remnants.
Please note, this is not a repair - this is a regular maintenance procedure for the coffee machine. Scale builds up in the coffee machine constantly. Therefore, it must be removed periodically so that the coffee maker does not clog or break. Descaling is very simple. We dilute two teaspoons of citric acid (sold at any grocery store) in a glass of water. Pour into the tank of the coffee machine. We do not put the capsule. And in the same mode as we prepare coffee, we run this solution through Nescafe Dolce Gusto. We repeat the procedure two times.
So that later in the coffee you do not feel the taste of citric acid after cleaning, pour a full tank of clean water and run again Krups KP 1002 (1006/1009) in the coffee preparation mode.
Everyone, congratulations. Cleaning and repairs completed. The machine pumps water again and pours coffee. Unfortunately, this will not stop the water flowing from it, alas, this is another problem. Yes, the most important thing is to remove the useful wire in place so that you don't get lost 🙂
Important! If you suddenly notice that over time your coffee machine has become slower to make coffee, this means that the pipe is again clogged with limescale. Re-clean and the problem disappears.
Video (click to play). |
Yes, one last thing, do not try to reuse already punctured capsules. The machine will not make coffee out of them. Put in a new capsule and the coffee maker will work as it should.