Details: krups xp 5020 DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
Operating instructions for the Krups xp4000 coffee machine with pictures in English and Russian in pdf format download.
One of the brands of coffee machines is the German company krups. The Krups xp4000 coffee maker is positioned as a semi-professional coffee machine for making espresso and cappuccino coffee. But the machine prepares these two types of coffee very professionally thanks to the high pressure pump that raises the water pressure to 15 bar. The essence of the method is simple - first, a heating element (heat-electric heater) is heated, then cold water is passed through it. The water heats up quickly and is discharged through the coffee tablet into the cups. Usually coffee is brewed in Turks, but this is not the case here.
Outwardly, the croup looks bulky and angular.
The label in the form of a sticker tells that the product is made in China. The company itself krups is located in Germany, but like many companies is trying to reduce production costs by assembling and manufacturing parts in China. Voltage 220 V indicates that the product is made for Europe. The power of the heating element is 1.3 kW. In standby mode, the machine will suck a lot of electricity. All energy is spent on maintaining the temperature of the heating element at the same level.
When inspecting the machine, everything seems to be clear and there is no need to expect surprises from the filling. But a complete surprise for me was the presence of a circuit on the mikruhe at the bottom of the xp4000. The circuit, although placed in a niche, is not protected from moisture ingress. The main purpose of the circuit is to turn the pump on and off. The circuit is not capable of more.
The circuit was clearly soldered by hand by Chinese specialists. It is strange that many of the details overlap. Either this is how the Germans design and imagine the future of cybernetics, or this is a Chinese self-propeller. The quality of the soldering leaves much to be desired and the board is practically non-repairable. The question was the 2P5M thyristor to control the activation of the pump. But although the thyristor controls the turn-on process, it cuts off part of the lower half-wave. In this case, the voltage peaks do not decrease, but the voltage form itself turns out to be asymmetric, which, in principle, is not a buzz. Datasheet for the applied thyristor 2P5M in pdf format download.
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There are letters denoting it under the sticker on the mikruh. The marking is very strange. In other words, a thoroughly Chinese microcircuit.
I soldered the thick diode myself, not the manufacturers. In addition, I evaporated the thyristor itself.
Disassembling krups xp4000 is quite simple - there are many screws, but all are unscrewed. All self-tapping screws for a positive screwdriver (cross), but the very first four from the bottom cover are a head with an asterisk. Made by a Chinese specialist so that housewives do not open it. The assembly is more difficult - trimming in plastic and each must fit into its own groove. The main part of the coffee maker is a heating element heater, combined with a water distributor. The handle switches the direction of the water and closes the limit switches.
The heater is equipped with heating sensors and a thermal cutout. The fuse is crammed into a white thermotube. By the way, all wires are heat-resistant, i.e. their insulation does not withstand the standard 65 C, but a little more - 150 C.
The sensors are sharpened for a certain temperature - they turn on and off the heating element.
The power button is embedded in a plastic holder. By the way, I could not remove the button from the holder. The button often wedges, but this is often solved with the help of VD-40, a screwdriver and a hammer.
The pump is small and powerful. It is better not to disassemble the pump if the system is not leaking. The fact is that the pressure in the system is high, but sealing the joints is quite difficult work.
The inlet pipe is put on the flask. A container with water is inserted into the flask. This is where problems often arise.The flask is inserted, but no water flows to the pump. The easiest way is to insert the flask once, and then simply pour water into it without removing it. Most likely, it was not without design problems.
Initially, the coffee maker was in standby mode and maintained the temperature in the heater. Then cotton was distributed and water flowed out of the container into the sump. Then the pump turned on. After turning the coffee machine off and on again, the pump did not turn off, but continued to work. No water was pouring out. I had to disassemble the whole machine. The scheme on krups xp4000 was not available on the network and I had to draw everything from nature with pens.
The "Start" button turns on and off the machine from the network. A temperature cutout "t" protects the entire system against fire and uncontrolled heating. Temperature sensors "T1" and "T2" maintain the temperature of the heating element at the same level. Motor "M" - pump motor. "Mk" - microswitches on the heating element itself, which are pressed by the rotary mechanism for selecting the operating mode. Arrows indicate connection to the board.
After sketching the diagram, it became clear that you can do without a control board. One wire connecting the heating element and the normally open contacts of the limit switches is disconnected from the heating element and connected to the pump. The wire connecting the pump and the normally closed contacts of the limit switches is removed. The pump is connected via a diode to the neutral mains wire.
I did not put a diode. Let the half-waves be symmetrical.
That's all the improvement. After all the transformations done - rearranging the wires and completely removing the control board, the coffee machine started working. The pump works stably, the temperature of the heating element is maintained at the proper level. The pump control board is bolted to the cost and adds significantly to the cost.
The essence of the breakdown - the coffee machine started leaking while making coffee. Moisture appears in the drip tray, the coffee tablet is damp. In this model, the brewing unit is non-removable, which somewhat complicates the repair. Indeed, to dismantle it or for visual inspection, you need to disassemble the case and remove the case panels.
First of all, you need to remove containers, containers and water tank. Then, in the upper part, unscrew 5 screws with a hex wrench - two in the container for coffee beans, 1 under it and a couple closer to the front panel.
Then you need to unscrew the two screws with the same hexagon at the base of the coffee machine on the back wall.
The screws on the bezel are hidden under a decorative chrome strip, which is fastened with snaps. Removing the panel is easy - just pull it towards you.
The next step is to remove the top cover - you need to grab it by the front and pull it up with a little effort.
Under the cover we see the cause of the breakdown - problems with the piston and O-rings.
Dismantling the piston is simple - you need to remove the tube and unscrew the piston fastening screw with the same hexagon and then carefully pull out the piston itself.
Particular attention should be paid to ensure that the spring that cleans the groove through which the ground coffee is poured from the coffee grinder does not come off or get lost.
Then we start cleaning the piston with a special tool. First of all, you need to disassemble the piston - pull out the membrane, strainer and valve. They will also have to be cleaned and washed. The rings also need to be replaced. In our case, the old ring turned out to be defective — part of it broke off, which led to leakage. But from the appearance of the insides, it is clear that the cleaning of the coffee machine was carried out very, very rarely.
After the piston and strainer are cleaned, the machine is washed from the inside, you need to assemble the piston and put it back in place, after having lubricated the new rings.
After installation, we assemble the coffee machine in the reverse order and proceed to testing - we brew a cup of coffee and look at the state of the coffee tablet in the cake compartment, check if there are any spills in the tray.
If everything is done correctly, we can state that the do-it-yourself repair of the Krups XP coffee machine after the flow has been completed successfully
Repair of the Krups XP 5020 coffee machine in a short time.We eliminate faults of any complexity with a guarantee of the quality of components and work performed.
- Replacing the fuser sensor
- Replacing the control unit
- Decalcification
- Replacing the fuser
- Boiler repair
- Component recovery
- Power board repair
- Replacing the engine
- Replacing the transformer
- Replacing the control unit
- Replacing the water tank
- Boiler replacement
- Replacing O-rings
- Descaling the hydraulic system
- Pump repair
- Replacing the drain valve
- Cleaning the coffee system
- Removing coffee oils
- Pump repair
- Repair of the brew unit
- Pump repair
- Replacing the fuser
- Cleaning the coffee dispensers
- Cleaning the coffee system
- Repair of the brewing unit
- Cleaning with disassembly of the coffee machine
- Repair of the brewing mechanism
- Replacing tubes
- Replacing the coffee grinder
- Replacing or installing a filter
- Cleaning the water supply system
- Pump repair
- Hydraulic system repair
- Replacing O-rings
- Replacing the water sensor
- Replacing the millstones
- Replacing the coffee grinder
- Coffee grinder repair
- Replacing the grinder motor
- Repair of the control board
- Repair of the control unit
- Replacing the power cord
- Removing coffee oils
- Cleaning dispensers
- Hydraulic system repair
- Cleaning with disassembly of the coffee machine
- Setup and programming
- Replacing the control module
- Replacing the fuser sensor
- Replacing the steam block sensor
- Replacing the cappuccino maker
- Cleaning the water supply system
- Replacing the millstones
- Replacing the filter
- Replacing the steam valve
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Our service and repair company is the market leader in servicing coffee machines Krups XP 5020. In our repair shop, your coffee machine will receive a range of quality services from qualified experts. The specialist will carry out a diagnostic check, during which he will quickly find the source of the device's malfunction and report the price and time of the procedures. If you agree with the stated terms, the engineer will begin repair work. You can provide the transportation of the coffee machine to our courier department - the courier will arrive at the appointed time and quickly transport the coffee machine to the repair shop.
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After your confirmation, we make repairs
Checking the device and issuing a guarantee for up to 1 year
1 cm), does not ring out too much. I know this often happens with this model. Maybe someone came across.
kotiy, when the button is turned on, the pump should drive water into the pan for 2-3 seconds, and then it will stop and turn on the heating of the heating element. And when you turn on the network, your pump constantly works and drives water into the sump, as far as I understand? Or does the initial cycle work out correctly, and when the coffee delivery button is turned on, water does not flow into the cup, but into the sump?
When turned on, the initial cycle passes, heats up, all buttons light up (enters the operating mode). When you press the button, it starts to drive water into the pan. It is such an impression that the triac does not open and the valve does not work (it does not receive a spill, it is checked). But as I wrote, it is not easy to check it, like everything else. the board was filled with varnish conscientiously. He climbed up with needles, rang, like a worker. The relay on the power board is working.
To believe by substituting a working triac, you need to "pick out" the varnish, but you don't want to make a byak.
kotiywhether the solenoid valve winding is open (about 2.5 kOhm should ring). If the valve winding is open, the triac will not open and no voltage will be applied to it.
kotiy, try changing the triac, replacing the module will not help.
I feel that I need to pick out the varnish and change the triac, by the way it is controlled by the moc3041. Maybe she flew out after all? In general, until tomorrow I will think about the 3rd option (if any). Then I'll pick
I changed the triac, and at the same time the moc (it was at hand). Steam is working