DIY kitchen repair calculations

If you have some free time and some money, and life has become too monotonous, you can make a kitchen renovation with your own hands. This will not only save money, but also acquire useful skills and even improve health, because physical activity has not harmed anyone yet.

The chances of getting a result in which you are not afraid to invite people to your kitchen after your own repair will increase significantly if you use the advice of a specialist.

When deciding how to make repairs in the kitchen, it is necessary first of all to consider the finishing materials, taking into account the costs of their acquisition and the possibility of self-installation.

So that the kitchen does not stand out much from the rest of the rooms, it is advisable to do everything in the same style.

When determining where to start renovating a kitchen, first of all, they choose a style. There are more than a dozen of them for kitchen decoration, the most famous: classic, high-tech, modern, minimalism, baroque - the implementation of many requires a lot of money.

In the classics, expensive natural materials are used - a wooden kitchen set, parquet on the floor. High-tech and modern require the presence of expensive plastic and glass materials and are more suitable for modern young people, baroque with carved furniture looks better in living rooms and bedrooms.

For established people, one of the options that are simple and affordable is to decorate the kitchen in the Provence style on their own, which allows you to create a beautiful, cozy interior, characterized by comfort and grace.

Recently, Provence has been quite popular, it assumes the presence of light pastel colors in the decoration of the room and the furniture itself (finishing under natural light wood), the presence of plants and decorative elements. Provence excludes the presence of bulky interior items (heavy curtains, massive chandeliers), the kitchen should be light and a little romantic.

Provence will add coziness and warmth to your kitchen, as it looks organic

Making repairs in the kitchen with your own hands with a small budget in the Provence style is not difficult, it does not require a lot of construction experience and special expensive tools.

Most often in the kitchen, plasterboard ceilings are used, stretch, painted or pasted over with wallpaper. You can also use a ceiling finish made of expanded polystyrene or foam ceiling tiles or PVC panels - do-it-yourself repairs are easy, although in the latter case, you will need to arrange a wooden or metal frame to fix the PVC panels.

It is not difficult to paint the ceiling, it is enough to have a roller with a long handle

Usually, the ceilings in the kitchen are painted with waterproof paints - acrylic latex, water-based. If the ceiling is flat enough and has been painted with waterproof paint, it will not be difficult to repaint it with a roller.

This must be done at least twice, the first time the staining occurs perpendicular to the direction of light from the window, the second time - along.

In some cases, it may be necessary to level the ceiling - for this it is necessary to rinse it very well and clean it up to the floor slab, prime it and apply a putty, and after it dries, wipe it with sandpaper.

Wallpaper on the ceiling looks unusual, but it is advisable to buy a waterproof version

Gluing thick waterproof wallpapers to the ceiling will eliminate the need to level it and give it a more interesting aesthetic appearance than in the case of staining.

The choice of wallpaper for the ceiling is a budget option, besides, pasting the ceiling is a fairly simple job that even housewives can handle.It is advisable to prime the ceiling before wallpapering, the stripes should be glued in the direction of the light.

Do-it-yourself Provence-style decoration requires a light wooden floor. Naturally, in a damp kitchen, natural wood is expensive and impractical and can be replaced with common flooring materials such as ceramic tiles, laminate or linoleum - all of which come in natural light wood finishes.

Ceramic tiles are durable materials with water-resistant properties, but require careful handling of heavy objects

Not the most suitable option for decorating the kitchen with your own hands; for laying tiles on the kitchen floor, you will need a special tool (tile cutter, grinder) and the skills of a qualified tiler.

In almost all kitchens, because the tile floor is rather cold, it is laid on an electric heating mat in the form of a wire about 5 mm thick. on the grid. This further complicates the task of laying tiles and requires the connection of the heater control unit with a knockout to install it, a hole in the wall and a strobe for the electric wire.

Considering that finishing a Provence style kitchen on your own will require the involvement of specialists for laying tiles, and the work will be quite expensive, this option can be abandoned.

It is advisable to choose a waterproof laminate, since the kitchen is quite humid and there is a high likelihood of frequent splashing of water on the floor.

Ordinary laminate is not a very suitable material for the kitchen due to its low water resistance, therefore, more expensive moisture resistant types with special surface treatment and locking joints should be used. It is quite easy to repair the kitchen with your own hands, laying the laminate on a substrate, subject to a simple work technology.

Moisture-resistant types of laminate can withstand exposure to water for about 6 hours without consequences, while waterproof ones are not afraid of its effects. Waterproof laminate is also made in the form of panels of various thicknesses or glued to the floor, its only drawback is the very high price.

If linoleum breaks in one place, you will have to replace it throughout the room.

A budget option for laying on the kitchen floor, modern types have the widest range of colors and patterns, commercial brands are highly durable and durable.

The disadvantages of linoleum when laying in the kitchen can be attributed to its small thickness, which leads to different levels of the floor if laminate is laid in the corridor. That is why many people prefer to lay out the floor in the kitchen from impractical ceramic tiles.

This problem has a simple solution - the floor in the kitchen is filled with a leveling self-leveling mixture to the required thickness (3 - 10 mm) - this allows not only to raise the level, but also to level the floor.

You can do the filling work yourself if you have a special gear roller and a mixer for mixing the solution (self-leveling is sold in bags as a dry mixture).

Before laying linoleum, it is necessary to make a perfectly flat floor so that there are no differences in height.

A construction mixer can be replaced with a household drill by purchasing an inexpensive whisk for mixing the solution, a roller - with a metal comb with teeth (this option is very risky to use, liquid self-leveling may not spread well on the floor and it will be damaged).

You can repair the floor by laying linoleum on KS or PVA building glue yourself, this is not too difficult construction work.

Kitchen walls should also be practical and easy to clean.

Renovation of a Provence style kitchen implies light colors; for wall decoration, MDF or PVC panels, ceramic tiles, painting, wallpapering are most often used, and the types of finishes are often combined.

Nowadays, rarely anyone decorates the entire kitchen with ceramic tiles, even to the middle of the walls, it is too expensive and out of fashion, the work area is mainly laid out with tiles.

There are 2 types of MDF, fiberboard or PVC panels: from a solid sheet (average size 1.2 m by 3 m) or type-setting, which are mounted on a wooden or metal frame.

In the latter case, the use of type-setting panels is impractical, since this significantly reduces the free space of the kitchen by the thickness of the frame and panel. In kitchens, it is better to use MDF panels covered with moisture-resistant PVC film or one of the types of fiberboard - laminated hardboard. The sheet panels are about 3 mm thick and are attached to the walls with glue.

Choose only waterproof paint that will not lose its appearance after washing

For painting the walls, preparation is necessary by leveling with puttying and rubbing, otherwise the light falling from the windows will highlight all the irregularities. The work is quite difficult for a layman and will require additional financial costs, and a monochromatic painting of the walls looks rather boring and is unlikely to become an interior decoration.

It is common knowledge that waterproof acrylic paints can be washed, but this statement is not entirely true. In the area of ​​the working area, drops of food with fat often fall on the wall, which are absorbed into the porous surface of the paint and is practically not washed off.

3D wallpaper has an unusual texture that will help to hide irregularities

The most budgetary option is wallpapering the walls; the most practical way is to do it with paintable or vinyl glass wallpaper. The latter, due to their thickness, will hide irregularities on the walls, and all types of dirt, including grease, are perfectly removed from their smooth water-repellent surface.

For finishing the working area of ​​the kitchen, you can use the same moisture-resistant materials as for finishing the walls. It is not difficult to install PVC panels or laminated MDF and fiberboard on the wall by gluing.

When decorating a work area, it is very important to apply the coating to a flat wall. In this case, the top of the countertop will fit snugly against the wall, and the thin panels will adhere well in all places.

The currently popular tempered glass panels with a bright pattern are not quite suitable for the Provence style, the use of frosted glass will fit more.

This is a rather expensive option, and although the glass can be installed independently, it makes no sense to save on this if the cost of the material itself is much more than the installation work that takes little time (1 - 2 hours).

Glass panels look sophisticated and suitable for expensive kitchen options

Laying tiles on flat walls is easy to do with your own hands if you have the simplest tool (hydraulic level, glass cutter), the only difficulty arises when cutting out holes for sockets - you need a grinder.

Conventional wall tiles, unlike floor tiles, have a rather soft base. Therefore, it is easy to cut it in a straight line using a conventional glass cutter, drawing a line on the glaze and breaking along the notch line at a hard corner.

In order to avoid misunderstandings, it is advisable to make repairs in the kitchen according to a design project - this will allow you to select and purchase materials suitable for the interior in advance, avoiding their shortage. The sequence of repairs in the kitchen is as follows:

• Freeing the room from the kitchen set and all accessories (removing the chandelier, baguette).
• Dismantling of old ceiling, wall and floor coverings.
• Garbage removal.
• Plaster or putty, followed by cleaning the ceiling and walls.
• Work on leveling the floor in the kitchen (screed, self-leveling).
• Shtroblenie walls and floors in the apartment, followed by the wiring and installation of boxes for sockets and switches, the output of lighting wires. Sometimes you may need grooves for plumbing pipes, followed by the output of plumbing fittings pipes to the walls.
• Ceiling decoration.

Non-experts recommend doing kitchen repairs with your own hands from top to bottom: ceiling, walls, floor, which in practice is not entirely true.For example, painted walls and ceilings at the beginning of renovation work when installing screeds, self-leveling in the kitchen, laying tiles on the floor can be heavily soiled, so it is correct to do the most dirty work first (plastering walls, screed, laying tiles on the floor and walls).

• Wall decoration.
• Laying the floor covering.

If the flooring is linoleum or laminate, the installation of which does without dirt and dust, and the material itself is poorly wiped off the paint, paint work should be carried out first. In the case of wallpapering, it is more practical to put the floor at the beginning, and then proceed to decorate the ceiling and walls.

It is not very difficult to make repairs in the kitchen with your own hands using the cheapest materials (wallpaper, linoleum) in the Provence style if the work is carried out in stages. The working area can be independently decorated with laminated MDF, PVC, fiberboard or tiles, in many cases it is supplied with a custom-made kitchen set.

In the last article, we started designing a kitchen, and have already sketched it. Today, I propose to make drawings for production.

And the first one that we calculate is a sink box, and the same in size, an extreme module with hinged facades.

Their total height is 870 mm. So, without a table top, it will be equal to:

870-28 = 842 (mm), where 28mm is the thickness of the countertop.

Our adjustable supports are 100 mm, which means that the height of the boxes themselves is equal to:

The sides of the box "stand" on the horizon.

And if so, then given that our kitchen is made of chipboard, the thickness of which is 16 mm, then the size of the sides of the lower modules will be equal to:

742-16 = 726 (mm), where 16mm is the thickness of the lower horizons.

The total width of the modules we calculate (this is the size of their horizons) is 800mm.

Knowing this size, we calculate the width of the carcass strips and shelves that the right box contains:

800-32 = 768 (mm), where 32mm is the thickness of the two sides.

Now, given that the depth of the boxes is 460mm, and the width of the body strips is 80mm, we will write down the detailing for these boxes:

• Horizon - 800 by 460 - 1 piece
• Side - 726 by 460 - 2 pieces
• Body strip - 768 by 80 - 2pcs

Here, the housing strips are mounted vertically. Moreover, the back bar is attached arbitrarily between the sides, and the front bar is 10 mm below the top edge of the side.

This is done so that the fasteners with which the sink is attached to the countertop do not rest against the upper edge of the cabinet strip, as a result of which there will be a gap between the countertop and the box.

Of course, the rear wall is not fitted in this case.

• Horizon - 800 by 460 - 1 piece
• Side - 726 by 460 - 2 pieces
• Body strip - 768 by 80 - 2pcs
• Shelf - 768 x 450 - 1pc
• Back wall (fiberboard) - 742 by 800 - 1pc

Since there are no drawers in this box, and it is extreme (on the right), then its stiffener need not be designed. Or, having made a nesting card, you can see if there is a suitable remainder.

If there is one, then it can be done. But in our case, we will not design it.

Its shelf is almost 800mm wide.

This is no longer a little, therefore, in such a box it is already possible to design a partition passing through the center.

As a result, you get two shelves.

Or, under the common shelf, you can make a partition at the bottom.

But we will leave it as it is (so as not to make unnecessary calculations).

And at the end we will calculate the facades

So, our overall dimensions are the same, therefore, their dimensions will be as follows:

Width: 800_2 = 400; 400-3 = 397 (mm).

• Facade - 742 by 397 - 4pcs (hinges - overhead)

Now let's calculate modules with drawers, the width of which is 400mm.

• Horizon - 400 by 460 - 1 pc.
• Side - 726 by 460 - 2 pcs.
• Body strip - 368 by 80 - 2 pcs.

The stiffening rib for these modules need not be designed, since they are relatively narrow, and for them the rigidity of the rear wall is quite enough, the dimensions of which are:

The detailing of the boxes is ready, now we need to calculate the dimensions of the facades, and then, the dimensions of the drawers.

As you can see from the sketch, on these modules, the upper front is standard (minimum), the height of which is 140mm, and the other two divide the remaining height in half.

So the total height is 742 mm. Let's give the gaps:

Distance from the top front to the table top - 4mm

Feelings between the others - 2mm each

There is no space between the lower edge of the lower facade and the lower horizon.

The total clearance in this case is:

Now, let's calculate the height of the lower two fronts, subtracting 140mm from the total height, and the total clearance:

For the first, we will design a box whose height is 100mm.

Well, for the rest, you can design both low and deep boxes. The height of low ones can be 120-130 (mm), and deep ones, for example, 200-230mm.

Since our module has a depth of 460mm, the depth of the drawers will be just under the size of the rail 450mm.

• 100 by 310 - 2pcs
• 100 to 450 - 2pcs
• 230 by 310 - 4pcs
• 230 to 450 - 4pcs

Fiberboard bottom: 342 x 450 - 3 pcs.

Well, as it was said earlier (in the article about the sketch of this kitchen), one worktop of standard sizes (3050 x 600 x 28 (mm)) will "go" to the bottom.

A plinth is needed under it (to hide the cracks between the wall). Roughly, you need 3 plinth strips:

1 strip - 3040 mm (along the entire length of the tabletop, which is equal to the width of the opening)

Let's not forget to add to the specification one more handle for each facade, and 4 adjustable supports for each box.

Well, we also need a false panel to hide the gap between the modules and the floor, as well as hide the plastic legs.

The height of the false panel on the opening is 100 mm, it should be 90mm, but in width - here is "roast".

When designing a kitchen from a standard laminated chipboard sheet, the dimensions of which are 2750 by 1830 (mm), we will in no way get to make, the size of which would be 3000 mm (namely, this is the width we should have).

Therefore, we will make it in two parts, for example:

• False panel - 90 x 1500 (mm) - 2 pcs.

Also don't forget that she is one of the few visible chipboard parts that needs to have the “correct” texture.

We are almost finished with the bottom (there will be a separate post on how to calculate the module for the oven and hob).

Let's calculate the upper boxes, the width of which is 800 mm.

By the way, in the left of them, a dish dryer is installed (in one section - plates, in the other - cups).

Their design is such that they are divided into two equal parts by a horizontal partition.

Moreover, the facades on these boxes open from the bottom up, thanks to special lifts.

And when calculating these modules, you need to know which lifting mechanism will be used so that there is adequate space for its installation.

• Horizon - 768 by 300 - 3 pieces
• Side - 800 by 300 - 2 pieces
• Back wall (fiberboard) - 800 by 800 - 1pc.

And we will calculate the height in accordance with the gaps.

Let the extreme indents at the top and bottom be 1mm each, and the gap between them be 2mm. The total gap is 4mm.

Since the facades are the same, we get:

800-4 = 796; 796_2 = 398 (mm) - their height.

As mentioned above, the fronts will be operated using a hoist. They are attached to the horizon with hinges.

And since they are the same, it means that the middle horizon is fixed in the center of the box, i.e. along an axis spaced from any of its edges by 400 mm.

But the internal openings will be equal:

I will say right away that in the opening of 300 mm, most of the lifting mechanisms will "become" (I do not consider folding systems in this case), and even more so in our opening (376 mm).

But in order not to be content with guesses, when designing a kitchen, immediately decide on the appropriate fittings, and, having familiarized yourself with its instructions, you will know exactly what opening is needed for it.

The picture below shows an example of a calculated duct on which gas lifts are installed.

So, for each of the boxes, you will also need two lifts, four overhead hinges, four handles for the facades, and four canopies, thanks to which the upper modules are attached to the wall.

Well, the remaining two boxes are the easiest to calculate:

• Horizon - 368 x 300 - 2 pieces
• Shelf - 368 by 290 - 1pc
• Side - 800 by 300 - 2 pieces
• Back wall (fiberboard) - 800 to 400 - 1 piece
• Facade (under glass) - 798 by 397 - 1pc
• Glass under the facade - 1 piece
• Overhead hinges - 2 pcs.
• Front handle - 1 piece
• Box sheds - 2 pcs

In the exhaust zone, between the upper horizons, you can install (or not install) a bar 600 x 300 (mm).

Usually, in a kitchen of a similar design, a common cornice is made. But, I think, while this is superfluous, we will talk about these elements another time.

Of course, this specification for the kitchen is far from complete.

All boxes (upper and lower) are pulled together by intersectional ties, for awnings on boxes you need a mounting plate (which is attached to the wall), an 800mm dryer, silicone, fasteners ...

Well, and the last thing we will do is nesting maps (more details on how to make them - here).

As you can see from the diagrams, for the manufacture of our kitchen (without a module for the oven, which will be considered separately), you need three sheets of chipboard.But the third sheet is just a few details.

In this case, it is necessary to decide that some internal parts (which are inside and are invisible, such as body strips, shelves, stiffening ribs), are made of a different material (for example, from the remains of chipboard of a different color).

In this case, you can save a whole sheet.

Well, here are the main points in making this simple kitchen set.

On this I will allow myself to “bow out”, see you.

Your repost will change the internet 🙂

In general, I had to do something about it, and I decided to move the washing machine to the other end of the room and place it between the gas stove and the wall by the window. According to the previously taken measurements, everything turned out to be “tube to tube”: the width of the cabinet, which had to be removed, was 40 cm, the machine - 40 cm. However, in the process of dismantling the cabinet at the junction of the floor and the wall, a heating pipe appeared, which prevented the installation of the washer in the niche, and if a wooden cabinet is easily trimmed, then naturally nothing can be done about the typewriter. I had to hastily erect a small pedestal (to the height of the pipe) and install a typewriter on it, but even then everything was very clear - it was time to be repaired.

As it turned out later, the machine not only launched this inevitable process, but also became, perhaps, the main element that influenced the design and design choice of the future kitchen.

So, what did I have at the start of this whole event. A kitchen with an area of ​​6.2 m2 (according to the registration certificate), on which no, even cosmetic repairs have been done for many years. The kitchen set has stood this way since the time the house was commissioned, and this is already almost 40 years. The window frame is old, wooden. The refrigerator is old and needs to be replaced. The gas stove is relatively new, but not adequate for the spouse's requirements.

In general, from what was supposed to be taken from the old kitchen and transferred to the new one, only the microwave and the washing machine mentioned in the prologue remained.

It only remains to add that the old kitchen layout and the arrangement of all the elements on it always seemed to me terribly inconvenient, not practical and not rational, and therefore I began to fight for every centimeter, for every piece of free space, and, looking ahead, I want to admit, that I did it.

I will not open America if I note that before you start designing a kitchen unit, you need to create a project for the room as a whole. To do this, you need to know the exact dimensions of the room, as well as the position of the existing communications. The thoughtless arrangement of light, sockets, water and sewerage wiring, ventilation and other things in the early stages of repair, as a rule, does not make itself felt, but closer to the finish it can be very conspicuous, violating both the aesthetics and functionality of the room ... So if you are not a professional, but consider yourself a "homemade" and believe in yourself, then start the repair by studying the basic data, so to speak, common truths. Search on the Internet and study articles from the category "20 common mistakes when designing a kitchen", "options for the location of sockets in the kitchen", "choosing a facade for a kitchen set", etc. From them it will become clear what standard furniture sizes exist, what kitchen facades are, at what height the wall row of cabinets is hung and what distance it is recommended to keep between it and the floor row.

Well, in order to finally start "drawing" cabinets on paper, you must either purchase all large freestanding and built-in household appliances in advance, or clearly imagine and know its mounting dimensions and take into account in the design. For what it is needed and so it should be clear.

Let's go back specifically to my kitchen. As I wrote above, the choice of the concept of my headset was influenced by the washing machine, the main feature of which is the vertical loading of laundry.That is, unlike most washers, in my "working" is the upper plane, and all the rest can be hidden from the eyes of an outside observer. So the idea of ​​a corner kitchen was born, where the sides of the corner are cupboards, and the top is a typewriter. This arrangement is the most rational and provides maximum functionality.

In the picture above, you can already see a new window installed without a window sill and in a reduced opening. The old opening, in my opinion, was too large for such a room, and I refused the window sill, because I planned to fit the tabletop in its place. At the same time, electrical wiring was done and socket blocks for household appliances were installed. Later, tiles were laid on the floor and walls, and wallpaper was glued. I approached the final design of the headset with the following picture.

I undertook to draw the kitchen in AutoCAD, because I was not trained in any PRO100, and I did not set myself such an initial goal. Although I will not hide that if you master this specialized program, then in the future, according to your ready-made dimensions of the lockers, it will itself make their detailing and even offer the optimal fastening element. My AutoCAD drawing turned out to be much simpler, but, at the same time, quite descriptive.

Editor's note: for design, you could also use the online constructor on our website. No special knowledge is required for use - just take it and draw.

Let's go over the main points regarding the lockers I got:

• I decided to put the floor row on decorative aluminum legs, with the ability to adjust their height. In my opinion, it looks aesthetically better than a blank plinth, and besides, there remains (albeit limited) access under the lockers (for a mop or rag, for visual inspection for leaks from the water supply or sewage system). The presence of decorative legs must be taken into account when further detailing the cabinets (see detailing).
• The facades of cabinets 1 and 5.6 (in fact, this is one cabinet, like 2.3, I just thought in its original form that it would be two cabinets, but I had already left the numbering as it is, so as not to change) will open upwards with the help of gas elevators.

• The front of the drying cabinet (2,3) will open upwards using the Aventos HF system.

• The doors of cabinets 4 (above the washer) and 8 (under the sink) will be hinged on conventional door hinges with a door closer.
• An oven will be built into cabinet 9, so it will be hollow, there is only a small drawer under it for storing baking sheets and a grill rack.
• Cabinets 10.1-10.3 are three identical cabinets with drawers that will be tightened with intersection bolts. Why drawers and not just shelves? The fact is that the contents of the pull-out drawer are easy to look at. To get to the things standing in the depths, you do not have to carry out archaeological excavations. The shelves often turn into a "graveyard" of dishes and supplies, which the owners simply forget about.

Let's imagine that the dimensions of your cabinet should be 600x700x300 mm. You take and order parts 600 wide, 700 high and 300 mm deep, and then you try to fit them. Naturally, at the end you will not get anything worthwhile, because you do not take into account the thickness of the part and how these parts will be joined together and located in the finished product. It is for this that it is necessary to do detailing - dividing the finished product into its individual components.

Before I move on to a large table with ready-made parts for my kitchen, I will clarify a few more points, where and how it comes from.

Height of the cabinet in the floor row. The recommended standard height of the floor row is 860 mm. The thickness of the countertop is usually 28 or 38 mm (I have 38 mm). The height of the decorative legs is from 70 mm and above (I have 100 mm). So it turns out that the height of the cabinet (the box itself) in my case is equal to: 860 -38 - 100 = 722 mm.For the convenience of further calculations, I just assumed 720 mm.

Drawers can be of several types:

• The box of the box is assembled from the same material as the rest of the kitchen (chipboard) and is mounted on roller or telescopic guides. As they say - cheap and cheerful.

Tandemboxes

• Metaboxes, tandemboxes, etc. In fact, these are ready-made boxes with fastening and adjustment systems, for which the bottom and back wall are only fitted (cut from chipboard). These systems are not cheap, but simple and easy to install. Plus they look very solid. Each manufacturer has schemes for calculating the installation dimensions, additives and installation of their tandemboxes. Be sure to download them from the Internet, or take them from sellers, study them and start detailing.

Diagram and installation dimensions of the Boyard tandembox
Diagram and installation dimensions of the Boyard tandembox

Gas elevators and aventos are mounted on top row lockers and are designed to open and hold the facades on the weight. At the construction market or in a store, the seller will advise you on these pieces, you just need to tell the material and dimensions of the facade that you need to open / hold.

So, I present once again the kitchen diagram and the detailing that I got at the output.

Arranging the kitchen is an extremely important task, because in its space the owners spend pleasant moments with their families. It is important not only to provide comfort in this room, but also to arrange it so that the appearance of the room remains attractive for a long time. To do this, you need to choose materials and pieces of furniture that are moisture-resistant and easy to clean.

The comfort and coziness in the kitchen depends entirely on its design. If everything in the kitchen is in its place, then it will always be pleasant to be there.

Initially, you should measure the room, and then you can start calculating the necessary materials.

Then comes the turn of dismantling floor and ceiling coverings, as well as old communications. If necessary, at this stage, it is recommended to replace the windows, and then it is permissible to start carrying out communications. Next, you can begin to level the surfaces of the walls, ceiling and floor.

The decor of the ceiling in the kitchen can be done using a variety of patterns that will overlap with wallpaper or furniture.

When decorating the ceiling, you can use GKL suspended ceiling systems, slabs or panels, in addition, stretch ceilings will look great. However, for those who prefer a more practical approach, a water-based water-repellent coating is suitable. In this case, you need to decide what is more important for you: cheapness and profitability or aesthetics? For walls and floors in the kitchen, you should use waterproof materials, including natural stone, ceramic tiles or linoleum.

It is extremely important to ensure the correct lighting of the room, for this it is preferable to use fluorescent lamps, which can be located on hanging cabinets, but the dining area must be illuminated with a full-fledged chandelier. For rooms with high ceilings, it is better to use multi-level lighting.

A kitchen is a room in which you have to move a lot around the territory during cooking, which is why it is important to organize the zones where food is prepared and received as conveniently as possible. The layout of the room should be organized in such a way that all the furniture is not located along one wall, which is true if the kitchen has a large area. It is preferable to equip a U-shaped zone or "island". The working triangle should be limited to the refrigerator, stove and sink.

A marble kitchen looks very aesthetically pleasing, but this material is difficult to maintain, so it is not recommended to use it.

Do not use protruding handles that can shorten the opening angle of the cabinet doors located in the corner.It also limits the drawer pull-out mechanism. It is not recommended to form narrow labyrinths with pieces of furniture, which will restrict free movement around the kitchen. There must be a distance of 120 cm or more between the parts of the headset. If you prefer everything natural, then you should not decorate the floors, as well as work surfaces, using natural marble, since, despite its aesthetics, it is more difficult to maintain, this is due to its porous structure. Granite or artificial stone is a good alternative.

Recently, there has been a conviction that the Corian used in the manufacture of countertops is practically invulnerable, but this is a mistake, since time does not spare this material either. The only thing for which you can choose it is for the possibility of restoration.

Glossy facades are suitable only for those who are not afraid of daily cleaning, as such surfaces leave obvious fingerprints and water drops.

Wall panels are very practical and durable, which is why they have been very popular lately.

A do-it-yourself kitchen can be decorated with wall panels that will look great in a classic interior. This method of wall decoration assumes a minimum amount of installation time. The installation of wall panels should be started after priming the surfaces, which will eliminate the absorption of the adhesive and its excessive consumption. The adhesive should only be applied to the wall, and a trowel or roller can be used. The panels must be installed using a groove and tongue joint. If necessary, it is necessary to place shelves or pieces of furniture on the surface of the wall, to form deep holes for screws and dowels.

Wall panels can also be reinforced with construction brackets. Initially, for this, it should be noted where the launch pad will be located.

According to the marking, it is necessary to install 4 brackets, securing them with nails. The launch pad must be installed so that its ridge is connected to the bracket. The next product must be inserted into the groove of the previous one. For installation, it is necessary to mark a line that will help to mount the brackets, strengthen them, and then insert panels into them.

Another installation method involves the use of a mounting profile. It can be used on uneven walls and high humidity. Initially, it is necessary to fix the metal rails, and then you can proceed to the installation of the corner profile, to which you have to strengthen the starting corner product by clicking into the steel brackets. This method of installation eliminates warping of products, and, if necessary, contributes to a quick and easy dismantling of the wall. Despite the cost of the mounting profile, it is the leader in reliability and durability.

Fastening wall panels.