Kitchen furniture DIY repair

In detail: do-it-yourself kitchen furniture repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

I decided to share not a lot of experience. Sit down more comfortably and delve into. Happy viewing. And let the experienced men correct me if she wrote something wrong.

It's no secret that over time, the interior of the apartments needs updating. The wallpaper is glued, the walls are leveled and painted, the floor covering is changing, etc. But what about the furniture? Over the years, scratches appear on it, the polish fades, small children leave their mark on it in the form of drawings or stickers, which are very difficult to get rid of. Not everyone can afford to buy new furniture after each repair, so you need to find a way to restore it, or even modernize it. In this case, I used the method of pasting the facades of furniture - film - self-adhesive. It not only helps to hide flaws, but also perfectly adapts old furniture to the new interior design.

6-7 years ago, this headset looked something like this ...

They gave it to me in this form ... The son-in-law said so: "Take the firewood."

All we need:

  • old furniture,
  • accessories (handles, legs),
  • white acrylic enamel,
  • acrylic clear varnish,
  • brushes, rollers,
  • wallpaper spatula,
  • screwdriver, screws, screws
  • hex key
  • electric jigsaw,
  • Self-adhesive film
  • putty for wood
  • plastic profile

First, I cleaned all the doors from acrylic varnish and decoupage "Lemon" ... I filled in the drawings with acetone, so it is easier to clean the surface.

Then, with the help of an emery bar, I scraped everything off ...

I processed the surfaces of all facades in the same way and sanded them.

After that, I degreased the countertop and covered it with a film, then acrylic varnish three times with drying.

Video (click to play).

With such a spatula for wallpaper, it is very convenient to smooth out a large area of ​​pasting with a film.

The headset did the same with all the doors.

The rest of the components from the cabinets, I painted with white acrylic paint three times with drying and also varnished.

While my paint was drying out, I cut out the bottom of the chipboard with an electric jigsaw, because the old one was in a hopeless state ...

And I cut out the lower part of the sink from the middle of this piece ...

Judging by the fact that before the restoration of the kitchen, the sink was on the right, and I need it on the left, I had to putty the old holes for collecting the sink with putty on wood, sand it after drying and paint it. So, while my painted parts are drying, I started assembling the drawers ...

Using this key with edges and large furniture screws, I assembled two drawers ...

Since I have some plastic left over, I pasted over the inside and outside of the boxes.

I covered everything with acrylic varnish three times with drying and screwed the handles to them. The handles I bought were a little smaller than the old ones and their holes did not match, so I drilled new holes on all the doors and cabinets, and putty and skinned the old ones ...

So that the chipboard does not break during drilling, I glued the doors on both sides, scotch tape.

Collected the top drying cabinet (for dishes)

Then a large top cabinet. I nailed the back wall with small nails and screwed on the hinges for attaching the box to the wall.

I screwed all the hinges to the doors.

I hammered large nails (200mm) into the wall and hung the cabinets on these nails.Without shelves and doors, they are easy to hang.

Then I installed the middle shelf and screwed on the doors ...

And only after that, I screwed on the handles.

I pasted over the bottom of a large cabinet with foil and covered it with acrylic varnish.

I drilled holes in the bottom and screwed on the legs.

Then I began to assemble the wardrobe completely ...

To the back of the cabinet, I cut out an additional chipboard strip so that there is no gap and for the elasticity of the structure.

To install the cabinet, I have previously prepared everything for the installation of the sink and cabinet.

I connected the cold and hot water supply to the mixer.

I screwed the legs to the bottom of the sink

I assembled and installed the sink, screwed on the countertop, put on the drawers, the middle shelf

There was a gap between the sink and the countertop and I figured out how to close it ...

After the repair, I still had pieces of a plastic profile and I found a use for it. I cut it to fit the countertop,

From the narrow part I cut off along the edges of the strip so that this part would freely pass into the gap ...

The gap itself was filled with silicone sealant and the inner edges of the profile, adjacent to the table surface, too.

I put the profile in this gap and pressed it hard, smoothing it with a dry cloth.

Here's what came of it.

Then she screwed all the lower doors and handles to them.

But such gladioli bloom at my dacha. A holiday for the soul.

I thought that something was missing, it turned out - Apron to the wall! I bought a ready-made plastic film and adjusted it to the wall. Now it seems everything.

Here is such a set for a summer residence I have turned out.

If something in the old furniture is broken or it has lost its appearance, this does not mean that it is necessary to change it. Furniture can be restored, and any furniture, including kitchen furniture. To begin with, it is important to determine what exactly broke, whether it is possible to fix it, whether the repair will be temporary or the furniture can still serve for a long time. In the event that the headset is made of high-quality material or only the correction of cosmetic defects is required, repairing kitchen furniture with your own hands justifies itself. This is especially true for wooden furniture, it can be repaired several times. But more affordable furniture made of MDF and chipboard is also amenable to repair, when, for example, you need to improve the appearance of facades.

Usually, the kitchen loses its appearance the fastest, and most of all it is noticeable on the facades. If these are MDF facades, then in some places the film is lagging (the ends of the facades are vulnerable spots), scratches appear, stains from various contaminants, such as grease, appear, the coating changes color and becomes inhomogeneous in tone.

Minor damages include chips, scratches, abrasions.

  1. Chips are removed with wax. A pre-aligned chip along the edges is poured with molten wax, polished, and then painted over with special felt-tip pens, choosing colors. Then fix it with a finishing coat of varnish.
  2. Rub the scuffs with a soft microfiber cloth, to which the dye from a felt-tip pen has been applied.
  3. Scratches are polished with furniture wax.
  4. If some parts have dispersed, the edges are coated with PVA glue and pressed against each other with clamps.

Image - Kitchen furniture DIY repair

Minor defects can be painted over

It happens that the edge of the headset countertop or kitchen table comes off. It can be replaced with a new one that matches the color. This will require the edge itself, scissors, a construction knife, an iron.

  1. The edge is cut into pieces, according to the dimensions of the table top, with small allowances. First, they make blanks for the long sides, then for the short ones.
  2. Then the iron is adjusted so that the edge does not overheat or swell.
  3. The edge is evenly applied to the end. For convenience, you can put the table top upside down.
  4. With uniform, unhurried movements, they drive along the edge with an iron, as a result of which the glue melts, and the edge is glued to the end.
  5. While the glue has not cooled down, it is necessary to press the edge against the countertop, ironing with pressure along the edge with a piece of felt or a rag.
  6. The excess edge at the corners is trimmed with scissors, trimmed with a knife.
  7. The excess edge from above and below, if it does not fit in width, is cut off with a knife, gradually, towards the table top. And then they pass again in one motion, applying the blade at an angle of about 45 degrees to the table top.
  8. The corner joints are lightly sanded with fine sandpaper.

The peel-off film can be glued back if this drawback is minor. For these purposes, ordinary PVA glue is suitable. The main thing is to get to all hard-to-reach places.