Backstage ford focus 1 DIY repair

Detail: backstage ford focus 1 do-it-yourself repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Remove the tunnel floor liner insert (see "Removing the tunnel floor liner"). Set the gear lever to neutral.

... and fix it by installing a drill with a diameter of 3 mm in the shank hole.
We fix the car with a parking brake or install chocks under the rear wheels.
We hang the front of the car on the racks.
Remove the engine mudguard (see "Changing the engine oil and oil filter").
Remove the cover of the gear shift housing (see "Removing and installing the gearbox").
Only the gear selector cable is adjusted. To unlock the cable end.

... push the white cable end lock button on the back and slide it out.

We move the lever all the way up.

... and then down, while measuring the amount of movement of the tip along the threaded part of the cable. Based on the measurement results, set the tip to the middle position.

... and fix it on the threaded part of the cable by sinking the white button into the tip.
Install the gearshift housing cover into place.
We take out the drill. We start the engine and, by pressing the clutch pedal, make sure that the gearshift mechanism is working properly. Repeat the adjustment if necessary.
At the end of the adjustment, we lower the car on the wheels, install the insert of the floor tunnel lining in place.

Ford Focus appeared on the Russian market more than 15 years ago. Almost immediately, the car gained solid popularity among domestic motorists. The model has repeatedly been in the lead in terms of the number of sales in its class for the year. It is interesting that such a fate of the car is an indistinguishable feature of the country's market. In Europe, Ford Focus has not left the top ten sales leaders for many years. So this is a characteristic of a very successful Ford product.

Video (click to play).

What are the advantages of Ford Focus, which brought and keep it in the leading positions? Among the main advantages, car owners, like experts, name the following:

low price;
reliability and durability;
high degree of security;
ease of maintenance;
the possibility of DIY repair.

Undoubtedly, one of the most significant advantages of the Ford Focus, relevant for both Russian and foreign buyers, is the price of the car. In its segment, the model (in various bodies: sedan, hatchback, station wagon) is the leader in this indicator, offering one of the most democratic prices.

Choice is also important. The car is produced in various trim levels and body types (sedan, hatchback, station wagon). All kinds of combinations of internal filling with the exterior make it possible to choose a really suitable car.

However, the price would not matter so much if the car was not of good quality. Ford Focus has earned its high praise precisely due to the combination of these two parameters, since for a low price the buyer gets a car of excellent quality, characterized by reliability and durability. For more than 15 years, Ford Focus 1 has been relevant in the domestic automotive market. Despite the release of the second and third generations, Ford Focus 1 retains its confident position on the roads, and such a long operation of vehicles already speaks a lot about their quality.

One of the main achievements of the manufacturing company is the safe operation of the car. The first Ford Focus received 4 out of 5 possible stars (26 points) for the demanding Euro NCAP parameters. The same trend continued in later modifications of the car.

Car maintenance is quite simple and familiar for an experienced car owner. Most things are intuitive and obvious. For some operations, of course, it is advisable to acquire an instruction or user manual. By following the manufacturer's simple recommendations, taking into account the specifics of the quality of local roads and fuel, you can keep your FordFocus in working order for a long time without the need for any repairs.

In turn, if such a need nevertheless arose, the owner of the Ford Focus is able to perform a significant part of all kinds of repair procedures on his own. Moreover, the modern availability of information allows anyone to get acquainted with the most detailed instructions, as well as advice from experienced "focus guides", which can greatly simplify the repair work, or warn against possible common mistakes when performing these procedures.

Speaking about such an advantage of Ford Focus 1 as the low price of a car, it should be added that it will not be very relevant if you turn to expensive maintenance and repair after purchase if necessary. That is, the relevance of do-it-yourself repairs is to save money for contacting a car service or service station. The main thing is that the operation of the vehicle does not cost more than the car itself. Even an inexperienced owner can keep a car in excellent condition and repair it. In addition, in most cases, do-it-yourself repairs are not only cheaper, but also easier and faster, since there is no need to sign up, wait in line. Not to mention that unscrupulous service representatives can, in general, pass off minor malfunctions as the norm, thereby waiting until further operation leads to more significant, and, therefore, profitable.

Of course, in some cases it is necessary or at least desirable to contact a car service or service station. It is unlikely that each of us will begin to overhaul the engine in a garage, although this also happens. However, everyone can fix minor faults at the price of consumables. And to help him, the most useful selection of articles and tips on our website. They will help to identify the problem, figure it out, and also promptly eliminate it with your own hands.

In addition, even when servicing and repairing your Ford Focus 1 at services, it will be useful for the driver or owner to understand the principles of operation of components and assemblies of a car, as well as their purpose, design and composition. Actually, this will save an inexperienced car owner from anecdotally wiping the headlight if the battery is dead, or tapping his foot on the wheel if the fuel in the tank has run out.

In general, understanding the essence of the issue and the ability to repair Ford Focus 1 with your own hands will save you from unnecessary cash costs, as well as from deception, and will make the owner a specialist in another area.

To carry out repairs with your own hands, of course, you will need clear step-by-step instructions and algorithms. The articles presented on our website will help even a beginner understand the structure of FordFocus 1, repair and replace many different components and assemblies, regardless of their complexity. A detailed guide will guide you through all the key steps from preparing the vehicle, tools and materials required for repairs, to assembling the assembly. Here you will find nuances and subtleties:

DIY suspension repair;
steering control;
engine and transmission;
checking and adjusting electrical circuits;
fuel system;
car cooling systems;
and many other useful tips and materials for the maintenance, repair and improvement of your car.

With the ability to do DIY repairs, operating a FordFocus will be cheap and enjoyable.

You will need screwdrivers non-fold heads for 10 and 12.
It can be changed in two ways - by removing the tunnel or without removing the tunnel. The second method is critical in that through the window of the tunnel from where the gearshift lever sticks out, you can drop the parts and you will have to remove the tunnel.

Remove the checkpoint knobs.
You are filming the tunnel.
Drop the gearshift cables.
Open the base of the checkpoint.
Unscrew the gearbox base, separate all its parts, change the spring.

It's better to try it yourself first. The device is not complicated, it is also difficult to break something superfluous.

60 bucks of Prevox is 5. From the same series as replacing the head bulb for 20 USD.

220 p.) 650 RUB (September 2015)

well that's all. the whole procedure took five minutes. no need to remove the tunel and the mechanism itself. remove the casing from the wings, then unscrew the three screws holding the clamp, gently pull out the old spring and put a new one.

— Added: 21:07
well that's all. the whole procedure took five minutes. no need to remove the tunel and the mechanism itself. remove the casing from the wings, then unscrew the three screws holding the clamp, gently pull out the old spring and put a new one.

The pleasure is not expensive if the gearbox lock is not worth it.
The spring needs to be replaced. There you can easily even yourself.

Apparently, I, too, have a broken spring And there is a KP blocker. what difficulties may arise?
I haven't looked inside yet.

If anyone is interested in the blocker.
my upper link is not removed, the lower link is removed. The metal stand itself is screwed on with other bolts (or a hairpin - you can't unscrew it in general). I unscrewed three screws securing the plastic support. Removing it interferes with the lock of the blocker, but if you twist and lift the opposite edge of the plastic figure, you can remove it. We get access to the spring. I could not put the plastic back. I had to file down the plastic a little (it does not affect the functional properties) so that the lock of the blocker does not interfere with shoving it back. So she got up easily.
PS: I almost crumpled while trying to put the traction back. (I was very tight, although before that I shot and put on another ff1). Lubricated. I could only use pliers.

In a car with a manual transmission.

... there is a shift diagram on the gear lever knob.

Do not apply lateral force to the lever when shifting from 5th to 4th gear. This could lead to accidental engagement of 2nd gear.
The gearbox has a lock, which prevents erroneous engagement of reverse gear when shifting from 5th gear.

We turn on the reverse gear only when the car is completely stopped, 3 seconds after pressing the clutch pedal.

It is more convenient to work on a viewing ditch or overpass. Loosen the nuts securing the front wheel hubs. We hang the front of the car on the racks. Disconnect the hubs from the drives.

A special puller is required to remove the left-hand drive. If it is absent, you must first remove the right-hand drive. There is no gearbox oil drain hole. Therefore, we substitute a wide container under the gearbox housing from the right-hand drive side. Transmission oil will flow out of the hole after the drive is removed.

Manual transmission Focus 1 (MCP) - iB5, installed with Duratec 1.6i and Zetec-E 1.8i engines.

Gearbox Focus 1 - two-shaft, with five forward gears and one reverse gear, with synchronizers in all forward gears. The gearbox is structurally combined with the differential and the main gear.

The gearbox housing consists of three parts: the clutch and gearbox housings, cast from aluminum alloy, and a stamped steel cover. The joints of the body parts are sealed with gaskets. The primary and secondary shafts are installed in the holes of the gearbox and clutch housing, each on two bearings. The input shaft is designed as a block of driving gears for 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th gears and reverse gear. The gear wheel of the 5th gear is put on the splines of the shaft. The gears of all forward gears are helical, are in constant mesh with the driven gears.

Well, you have a play in the gear lever.

We remove the wings. The whole problem lies in the white ring. Over time, its tightness weakens.
To remove the gear knob, I removed the black plastic above the 4 latches of the ill-fated white ring (you can try to squeeze them out, but this is very steamy and inconvenient):

Judging by the design of this unit, there are two ways to choose the backlash: the first of which consists of cutting the white ring horizontally and pressing the upper half to the lower one. But in this version, we lose the rigidity of the ring as a whole, which is not good.
The second way is to just squeeze the bottom half of the ring without cutting it, which I did.

We cut out small rectangles from ordinary tin, so that they are slightly less than half the height of the white ring in height:

And we insert them around the perimeter, as in the photo. Those tins that will be on the side of the side pin of the gearbox handle - we fix it with rubber glue, this is quite enough so that they do not move.

Before installing the ring in its original place, we remove a small chamfer on the lower end of the ring with a file, so that the ring could “jump” onto our cans. I replaced the previously sawn-off latch stops with screws for M3, having previously drilled a hole and cut a thread directly in the plastic. Further, having lubricated where necessary, we make the final assembly.

Ford focus 2 backstage backlash in 10 minutes

Alexandr Hvalchenko Hace 6 meses

this is all garbage, your rewinding of the izalenta, over time it will come out and there will be backlash again, there is a rubber clutch, it bursts and falls apart, I replaced it with a bushing from second-grade paste, turned it on a turner and fitted it with a carpenter and smeared it with a little grease. and pasted it over. for the second year the flight is normal.

Alexandr Hvalchenko it will not go anywhere. On one of the past machines, I wound electrical tape around the counterpart of the lock so that the door closed normally. So even in those operating conditions it was enough for several months. With here it can generally serve forever

In a car with a manual transmission.

... there is a shift diagram on the gear lever knob.

We turn on the reverse gear only when the car is completely stopped, 3 seconds after pressing the clutch pedal.

It is more convenient to work on a viewing ditch or overpass. Loosen the nuts securing the front wheel hubs. We hang the front of the car on the racks. Disconnect the hubs from the drives.

Manual transmission Focus 1 (MCP) - iB5, installed with Duratec 1.6i and Zetec-E 1.8i engines.

Gearbox Focus 1 - two-shaft, with five forward gears and one reverse gear, with synchronizers in all forward gears. The gearbox is structurally combined with the differential and the main gear.

Learn to change the clutch on a Ford Focus 1 car with your own hands. Clutch replacement is one of the most common types of car repairs.On average, the service life of a clutch of domestic production does not exceed 70-80 thousand kilometers, of imported ones - 1.5 times more. The choice of a new unit must be approached very carefully and carefully, since low-quality fakes are widespread in the domestic market, which not only do not provide any reliable operation, but can also cause road accidents, including those with tragic consequences. It must be remembered that the clutch in the car, in addition to its usual functions - interrupting the engine torque when changing gears, reducing the jerking of the transmission, is responsible for safety, being, in fact, a safety clutch, which in a critical situation should prevent the destruction of more important and expensive components ( engine, gearbox, drive axle).

Video of clutch replacement on Ford Focus 1:

From the video you can find out various recommendations regarding the replacement of the Ford Focus 1 clutch and its adjustment.

After dismantling the old clutch, the flywheel surface must be degreased, and at the same time checked for wear. It should also be remembered that the friction linings of the clutch disc are very hygroscopic, so if you accidentally allow oil or other liquids to get on them, they will instantly be absorbed, and in this very place the disc will slip and overheat locally during operation, which will significantly reduce its service life. ... Based on this, it is advisable to carry out all work with a new clutch with clean hands. To clean the clutch, aerosols are often used, which are used to degrease brake linings, but this should never be done, because the material for their manufacture is fundamentally different. A new clutch should be checked for runout before installation. In cases where the lateral runout of the disc exceeds 0.5 mm, the clutch will slip a little in the place of skewing due to the incomplete separation of the basket and the disc.

It is highly recommended to change the slave cylinder and release bearing simultaneously with the clutch, since the old parts after disassembly will no longer have the necessary properties. Before dismantling the new disc, we clean the shaft of dirt and check the alignment of the splines, being careful not to touch the friction linings with our hands. The disc should move freely along the shaft without effort. We lubricate the parts thoroughly, but not abundantly; remove excess grease from both sides of the disc. Next, we mount the release bearing. All work is performed only with hand tools to avoid undesirable consequences. When installing, also pay attention to the condition of the tangential springs. It is they who give the smooth operation of the clutch. If one or more tangential springs are damaged, then the alignment of parts during the operation of the unit will be incomplete.

When installing the clutch, it is necessary to use a set of special mandrels that ensure the alignment as accurately as possible during installation. If they are not used, then the basket may move vertically or horizontally, and the box will not fit into place during reassembly. We tighten the fastening bolts with a star, and not one after the other. This will ensure uniform adherence of the basket plane during operation. Gradually increase the tightening force of the bolts, and the final tightening should be carried out with the torque wrench only once until it clicks (according to the prescribed torque).

Ford focus 2 backstage backlash in 10 minutes

Alexandr Hvalchenko Hace 6 meses

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We are glad to welcome all car enthusiasts, auto mechanics, locksmiths and simply interested ones to our car portal. The site> is made for you and we will try to help you repair your car.

Today we will explain how to replace and adjust the clutch in Ford Focus 1. If it breaks down and you decide to replace it, then our video tip will certainly help. What difficulties await when repairing it?

If you want to adjust the clutch in a FORD FOCUS 1 car with your own hands, then it will not be difficult to complete all the repair steps. To understand the replacement and repair process, watch our video instruction to independently replace the clutch in Ford Focus 1.

Ford Focus I petrol engines: Duratec 1.6 l (1596 cc) 98 hp / 72 kW, Zetec-E 1.8 l (1796 cc) 116 hp / 85 kW, Zetec-E 2.0 l (1988 cc) 131 hp / 96 kW; Operation manual, maintenance and repair, color wiring diagrams, control dimensions of the body. Production-practical edition of the first generation Ford Focus with sedan, hatchback and station wagon bodies from October 1998 to 2004

The Ford Focus debuted at the 1998 Geneva Motor Show. It is designed on a completely new platform and was intended to replace the Escort production program. Focus is a five-seater passenger car with a front transverse engine arrangement. Body - supporting structure, all-metal, welded. Front suspension type "MacPherson", rear - independent multi-link type "Control Blade".

In 2002, Ford Motor Company began producing Focus in Russia at a plant in the city of Vsevolozhsk, Leningrad Region. Cars coming off the assembly line of the plant are adapted to Russian conditions in many respects. Improved engine starting at low temperatures, increased ground clearance, installed an engine compartment mudguard and a special air filter. Body types: hatchback, sedan and station wagon.

There are four vehicle configuration options. The basic equipment is called Ambiente, then Comfort, Trend and the most complete - Ghia. Depending on the configuration, cars are equipped with one of three engines with a distributed fuel injection system with a working volume of 1.6; 1.8 or 2.0 liters. The 1.6i Duratec engine is eight-valve with 98 HP, while the 1.8i and 2.0i Zetec-E models are 16-valve with 116 HP. and 131 hp. respectively.

A car with a 2.0i engine is equipped with a four-speed automatic transmission. The book reflects the designs of Russian-made cars as of 2004.

Posted by: Anthony-SPb, June 19, 2002 at 15:07:00
In response to: Focus and Almera report! Who is in front of the choice! + Sent by Maximalist, June 19, 2002 at 14:44:58

: the clarity of the box - NOT PLEASED AT ALL! You have to get used to it for a very long time, especially on the go, since the handle is reduced to first gear and you have to catch the third when accelerating!
+++ Is this how it is? What do you mean, "mixed" and "catch"? I think it's a matter of habit, but I have no complaints about the clarity of the Focus box. A clearer inclusion of gears, IMHO, is not required.
- If you push the handle forward from neutral without leaning to the sides, the first gear will be engaged. Accordingly, on the move, after the second, you have to move the handle to the right and NOT TO THE END, but to the middle and forward to the third! Inconvenient, but I agree that this is an addictive period.
+++ This is at the backstage of the checkpoint, a spring broke or slipped off (it costs 120 rubles). This is the “sore spot of the Focus”. This spring keeps the shift knob in neutral between gears 3-4, so without the spring, it really seems like the rocker is “positioned” for gears 1-2. I drove about 6 tyk with a broken spring, and nothing, I got used to it for 300 km, then I "got used back" so as not to get under way with the 3rd: o))))

Any service should be. The shop should be at the service. In St. Petersburg, it costs 120 rubles for a TDV-car. At the same time, they ordered a lot of these springs, because they break. :O((

Yes, but.there it is necessary to remove the entire panel (the screw is under the plug under the ashtray for the rear passengers, and in my opinion, there are a couple more to the sides, but I might be wrong about the latter), otherwise I will not get close. I saw how it was done on the service (under warranty).

ZY This detail is called something like “rocker lock for manual transmission”, but again, I could be wrong. But you ask about the spring for the backstage, they will guess

And also To understand exactly what “this is it”, try, is the wings hanging in neutral? If it dangles between 1-2 and 3-4 gears and “gravitates” to 1-2, then “this is it”, and if not, then something else can, although this spring is visible if you remove the casing from the handle.

Ford Focus is the most popular golf-class car in Russia. In 2010, this car became the best-selling foreign car in Russia.

The first and second generations of Focuses (produced from 1998 to 2011) are characterized by a unique combination of comfort, handling, safety and an attractive price.

The manufacturer managed to keep the price low thanks to the domestic assembly (Ford Focuses have been produced in Vsevolozhsk since 2002).

The popularity of the car fell with the release of the third Focus in 2011: a rich selection of engines, bodies, gearboxes and additional equipment was not accompanied by the democratic price that is usually expected from the Focus.

Currently, the secondary market is replete with Focuses, which means there is great interest in their weak points and typical "diseases". So, Ford Focus repair - what to expect from a used people's favorite?

The pioneer of the lineup was launched in 1998. The car was equipped with diesel and gasoline engines of different power and volume. Some of them cannot be called hassle-free.

Split Port 2L Motor

Only the first 150 thousand km does not require repair. After this run, the cylinder head valve seats begin to collapse, and then fall out of their seats into the cylinders.

The cause of the breakdown is the overheating of the motor - a strong one-time or small, but systematic. Usually the problem can be solved by repairing the cylinder head and block. In case of significant damage, the question arises about the expediency of repair, sometimes it is easier to replace the entire engine or install a contract engine.

TDCi Duratorq 1.8L Engine

The turbocharged TDCi Duratorq 1.8L diesel engine was equipped with a fuel pump sensitive to low-quality diesel fuel.

Diesel Focus, according to the instructions, should only be filled with fuel containing antiwear additives (Euro 4 standard). Such diesel fuel is absent at most Russian gas stations, and "non-additive" diesel fuel greatly reduces the resource of fuel equipment.

Zetec motors

In order for Ford Zetec gasoline engines to work stably, owners have to regularly clean the throttle and change the oil every 10,000 km. Vnatyag driving is contraindicated for these engines. If at least periodically you do not "turn" the motor at high revs, deposits will form on the valve stems, which may result in the valve "hanging" and its meeting with the piston.

The speed sensor needs to be replaced quite often. If it is out of order, the automatic transmission goes into emergency operation (it does not allow shifting gears higher than second), and on cars with manual transmission, the engine simply stalls on the go.

However, the weakest point of the first Focuses is the car's suspension. The stabilizer struts on cars before 2002 are a "consumable" that needs to be replaced every 40,000 km. In restyled versions of the car, the resource of the struts was doubled. In addition, springs and wheel bearings are unreliable.

Suspension of Focuses of the first generation after 100,000-120,000 km will require investment. In the front suspension (McPherson type), you will have to change the ball joints, and in the rear (multi-link Control Blade) - all elastic silent blocks that provide steering of the suspension. After the first 100 thousand km, it is likely that all shock absorbers will need to be replaced.

Over time, it begins to flow through the seals and requires adjustment of the cable drive. But in general, this unit, inherited from the Escort, does not cause problems.

The four-speed "automatic" rarely fails.

In steering, after 100,000 km, it is likely that the tie rods and tips will need to be replaced. At the same mileage, the power steering pump oil seal begins to flow on the machines of the first releases.

When knocking from the area of the steering mechanism, it is not always necessary to change the steering rack. Sometimes it is enough to replace worn out support bearings on the front struts or tighten the loose mount of the steering cardan.

In addition to suspension elements, there is also a "consumable" Focuses - an electric fuel pump of the fuel system, located in the fuel tank. The fuel pump has to be changed almost every year. The pump filters quickly become clogged with dirt, which leads to overheating of the unit.

In 2004, the manufacturer pleased with the second generation of Focuses. This version of the car was produced until 2011.

The most annoying of all the model's shortcomings is the problematic Duratec 1.8L gasoline engine.

It is distinguished by "floating" revolutions. In combination with the "mechanics" in coasting motion, the motor can stall.

Sometimes there is another variant of the problem - the car does not want to brake with the engine. The culprit is the unsuccessful controller firmware. Numerous attempts by the manufacturer to improve the program did not bring the desired results, so the owners have to adapt to the "peculiarities" of the engine.

In the engines of the second Focuses, the cylinder block is made of aluminum, which greatly reduced the resource of the block. Overhaul of the cylinder-piston group Ford Focus 2

- is a complex business that requires high-precision equipment. Therefore, often, instead of overhaul, the old cylinder block is replaced with a new one.

From the point of view of steering, in general, modifications with EUR are more reliable. In vehicles with power steering, the high-pressure hose is weak, which bursts, not withstanding the loads. The steering tips and rods of all models will withstand about 80,000 km.

The suspension is characterized by short-lived stabilizer struts, as well as rear hubs made of low-quality metal. Racks and hubs will have to be changed already at a mileage of 60,000-70000 km.

The release of the third generation started in 2011 and continues to the present.

The first cars with a Duratec GDI Ti-VCT 2L engine had a factory defect in the engine oil scraper rings. At first, the malfunction revealed itself as an increased oil consumption, then the engine began to work unstably and lost power.

If the defect was not eliminated in a timely manner, everything ended in damage to the pistons in the cylinders. The manufacturer did not provide for overhaul of the cylinder block. But Russian craftsmen cope with such a repair of Ford engines, therefore, in some cases, replacing an expensive cylinder block can be avoided.

In the steering of the third generation Focuses, a knocking steering rack is a known problem. This malfunction is of a constructive nature, is associated with the compatibility of the rail with the EUR and is "treated" only by replacing the rail.

For the third Focuses, the suspension design used on its predecessors was modernized. But some typical "diseases" have not been eradicated. So, stabilizer struts and support bearings on the A-pillars continue to fail after 60,000 km.

The five-speed "mechanics" of the Getrag Ford Durashift iB5 modification is imperfect. The gearshift cable of this gearbox stretches quickly and then bursts. This is manifested in the impossibility of switching on the gears, the car simply does not go. The problem is solved by replacing the cable.

Ford Focuses like their owners with good ergonomics, futuristic interior, modern design. One has to doubt the technical reliability of the Focuses - each generation has its own set of weak points.

However, there is good news: since these cars have been on Russian roads for more than 15 years, they have been well studied by auto technicians.

This means that Ford Focus will need to be repaired quite often, but it is not technically difficult.

All Focus models with a manual transmission feature a single-plate dry clutch - an equally simple and practical design. For the hobbyist, there is a disadvantage to the single-plate dry clutch, which is that wearing parts such as the clutch release bearing and clutch disc are not very accessible. To do this, you need to disconnect the gearbox from the engine and dismantle - a job that requires solid knowledge and special tools. Therefore, it is better to leave the replacement of clutch assemblies to a specialized workshop.

The clutch consists of an engine flywheel 1. a clutch disc (driven disc) 2 and a clutch pressure plate (automatic clutch) 3. In all Focus models with a manual transmission, the pressure plate has a diaphragm spring.

hydraulic clutch control: A master cylinder with an integrated release bearing - MTX-75 gearbox; In the master cylinder with an integrated release bearing - gearbox 185; 1.synthetic cuff; 2. connection for air removal; 3. supply pipeline; 4. connection for air removal; 5. switch for the state of the brake fluid level; 6. expansion tank with brake fluid; 7. topping up pipeline; 8. clutch pedal; 9. working cylinder; 10. safety clip; 11. discharge pipeline.

Clutch and its assemblies
Engine flywheel: The flywheel is securely screwed to the crankshaft against twisting.
Clutch disc (driven disc): displaceable axially and torsionally stable on the transmission input shaft. Friction linings are riveted on both sides of the steel disc. The outer diameter of the clutch disc in Focus has different dimensions depending on the engine: 1.4 / 1.6 L Zetec-SE - 210 mm; 1.8 / 2.0 L Zetec-E - 220 mm; 1.8 L Endura DI - 228 mm
Clutch pressure plate (automatic clutch): screwed to the flywheel securely against twisting. Presses the floating clutch disc against the flywheel by means of a Belleville washer spring.

Checking the clutch
A worn (slipping) clutch is unmistakably recognizable when you accelerate the car in top gear or drive in the mountains. The engine runs at high revs, but the travel speed does not increase. In order to be timely warned, it is better to check the clutch in front of the garage, although only with justified suspicion, since the test will make the clutch "sweat" well. Before you get started, engage the handbrake securely.

Stages of work
1. Apply the handbrake and start the engine. Step on the clutch pedal, engage 3rd gear and attempt to move.
2. With perfect clutch, the engine will stall already in the first quarter of the return of the clutch pedal to its original position.
3. If the engine continues to run, the clutch is worn out.

The content of the article:

Task: replace the clutch master cylinder in Ford Focus 1

It all started with the clutch pedal being a little damp, then a lot damp, and then the entire mat "drowned" in the brake fluid.

The eye did not even look in favor of the original, because the prices are unrealistic for such a spare part - UNREAL. Guys, for that kind of money, you can dial a cruise control kit with a microcontroller unit, which, excuse me, thinks for the driver, saves fuel and gives comfort, and then there is some kind of cylinder valve plastic. Do not make me laugh. Of course, I respect FMK and all the engineers, but I voted in favor of the non-original, long-loved Sachs company (SACHS):

Here is such an uncomplicated contraption.

The progress of work on replacing the clutch master cylinder in Ford Focus 1

Changing newspapers on the rug is already tired of the end, and the liquid is also not 5 rubles worth.

My version is hardcore. I will say right away that the cylinder is not in the most convenient place in the world and it is not very easy to get to it.
1. To begin with, I removed the air filter housing and the engine compartment relay / fuse box (the latter sits on two clips on the right, and one self-tapping screw with a turnkey head on the left, the key is 7, I suspect).The main CA is located exactly under the relay / fuse box.
2. Without removing the clutch pedal, as required by the manual (there it is necessary to remove a part of the steering shaft), I removed the rod of the old cylinder from the pedal - as a result, I broke the rod. What was actually required.
3. At the cost of incredible effort, I managed to unscrew the two bolts securing the cylinder to the pedal unit (key 10).
4. Then there was a relatively easy dismantling of the hose from the barrel, and the hose to the box.

Actually, the whole dismantling.
Put a new cylinder in place (another feat, but already by tightening two mounting bolts)

I connected the hoses (before installing everything, I advise you to remove the clamps from the cylinder, so it will be easier to insert the hoses later) and ... bleed the system. For convenience, I removed the battery and the battery cover:

I will warn about possible questions:

· Nozzle for pumping 11.

Hardware for fastening the cylinder to the shield of the engine compartment for 8

it must be borne in mind that the cylinder must fit into special grooves located on the bracket of the pedal unit

yes, there is no anther and there will not be, such is the design, anthers are the last century

· Old awl, which has flowed - 99% used. a cylinder from Luk, on it were visible paint marks characteristic of, say, EuroAuto. No comments.

The moral of the whole fable is that it is better to overpay and never again dance with a tambourine around the clutch master cylinder, for this is, after all, not an easy task. It took me 4 hours personally.

Clutch kit (basket + disc) - 622 2414 09
Release bearing - 510 0011 11

Stickers with German markings

Disk, good quality

Sticker recommending replacing the release bearing with the clutch kit

Also visually flawless

Video (click to play).

The car ran 200t (I don’t know how real this run is, but I get 10t a year), oil is the previous owner