Problems in the front suspension system, and more specifically the silent blocks on the Lada Kalina, can be recognized by the characteristic sounds it makes while driving. So, driving on uneven roads can be accompanied by various crackles, squeaks and other unpleasant noises. This situation not only causes great discomfort, but can also cause a more serious malfunction, or cause an accident.
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Front suspension bushing close
The silent blocks on the Lada Kalina car are located in the same way as the VAZs of previous years. These elements are located generally on the wishbone or adjacent to it ... You will have to change them either on the entire element at once, or by choosing the most damaged ones. Of course, if there is damage to one of them, the wishbone with rubber (stock - approx.) Stabilizers must be removed and replaced with polyurethane analogues.
In order to start work on replacing old silent blocks with new ones, you need to put the car on a viewing hole, a lift or raise it on a jack.
The next step is to remove the wheel and spray all the connections on the wishbone with WD-40.
After the grease has penetrated into all hard-to-reach places, we begin to unscrew the bolts.
First of all, we begin to dismantle the ball joint bolt, but before that we remove the cotter pin from the bolt.
Then we unscrew the bolt securing the hinge of the longitudinal extension (where the "daisies" are attached - approx.) And remove it from the seat.
A generously lubricated bolt, a guarantee of success.
When dismantling this unit, problems should not arise.
For the best impact on the bolt, a wrench extension can be used.
The rubber-metal hinge of the longitudinal stretching, or simply "chamomile", is designed to take the main blow from the unevenness of the roadway, despite the fact that this element is very important, it is very easy to dismantle it.
Having previously held the lever in a vise, we knock out the silent blocks in turn using a chisel or a thin flat screwdriver.
Beating the daisies is not an easy task.
This is what the old suspension elements look like.
To inflict the least damage to the silent blocks, it is better to put pieces of wood between the vices.
The stabilizer bar, or just "eggs", and the pillow provide the stabilizer bar stable operation while driving.
It is very easy to dismantle the "eggs", it is enough to unscrew the mounting bolt from the transverse arm, and simply release the other end from the anti-roll bar by simple swinging.
Sometimes it happens that they just break
Having unscrewed the mount, it is very easy to remove the pillow, but putting on a new one is much more difficult.
The largest silent block of the lever located at the very base, in spite of the fact that it has, among others, more impressive dimensions, is not difficult to dismantle.
The easiest option to remove is arson. When the rubber on it burns out, you just have to get it out and clean the seat.(Of course, you can squeeze it out through a vice, but this will take time and may cause some inconvenience).
So the old silent block is guaranteed to come out of the seat without any consequences.
Installing a new silentblock can also take time.
The silent blocks are assembled on the lever ...
... and so they are assembled by car.
If during the execution of work you find that the bolts and nuts are in an obscene condition (there are cracks, traces of strong rust, bad thread - approx.), Then such elements are best replaced with new ones, using bolts made of high-quality steel and nuts with a self-locking element ...
The rest of the front suspension elements, in which the rubber-metal and metal hinges are located, change immediately in assembly. These include:
These elements cost about 500 rubles per set, and also do not require specific installation skills.
In total, there are four main reasons why noises and squeaks can annoy the car owner Lada Kalina, and three of them can be eliminated on their own and returned to a safe state.
The first reason why there is a knock in the suspension is this is a poor quality of the road surface ... A suspension that is in good working order can also emit a certain amount of extraneous noise. If, when driving on a good road, the noise disappears, then everything is in order with your suspension, you can go to the item below.
If there is a knock and simultaneous vibration in the steering wheel, it is possible the reason lies in a faulty steering rack ... If you can tighten the steering rack yourself, then it is better to entrust its repair or replacement to professionals.
The third reason is Lost spring of the front suspension strut ... Since the spring tone is significantly reduced, the suspension hits the body directly. How to change the front struts, and with it the spring, is described in detail in this article.
And the last reason is cracked silent blocks, which are simply necessary for thoroughly damping knocks and vibrations that occur during movement. How to properly replace these elements of the front suspension, read below our article.
The basis of the suspension is a shock absorber, the lower part of which is connected to the steering knuckle by two bolts. The camber angle is adjusted with the top bolt. A helical conical spring, a polyurethane foam buffer for the compression stroke, as well as an upper support assembly with a bearing are also installed on the rack.
The top support is attached to the body splash guard cup with three self-locking nuts. Its design differs significantly from the design of the supports that were used on VAZ 2108-2110 cars:
Instead of a pressed-in thrust bearing, a steel bush is installed, vulcanized to the rubber mass of the support, which eliminated backlash and extraneous sounds.
The thrust ball bearing has a larger diameter and different design. It is located between the upper support and the spring and is in a compressed position, which eliminates all gaps and knocks. The durability of the bearing has increased by increasing the contact area of the balls with the raceways.
When the wheels turn, the strut body rotates with the spring. In this case, the shock absorber rod remains stationary, the connection of the rod with the shock absorber guide sleeve wears out less.
Longitudinal braces absorb braking and traction forces. Washers are installed at the joints at both ends of the brace to adjust the caster angle of the wheel rotation axis.
The sealed double row angular contact ball bearing is installed in the steering knuckle and secured by two retaining rings. The wheel hub is installed in the bearing inner rings with an interference fit. The bearing is not adjustable during operation. The nuts for fastening the wheel hubs are the same, with a right-hand thread.
If you notice a knock or creak in the Kalina front suspension, then you need to perform diagnostics during which to identify the malfunction. Kalina front suspension repair is considered in other articles.
The car produced by AvtoVAZ Lada Kalina has received popular recognition in Russia - this brand has enough fans, there is a club, and many forms have been created on the Internet. But the car has its own characteristic "diseases", and therefore the repair of Lada Kalina is a relevant topic, worries many car owners.
In this article, we will look at the most vulnerable spots of a car, the most common malfunctions and methods for their elimination.
Lada Kalina has been produced by the Volzhsky Automobile Plant since the end of 2004; since 2013, Togliatti residents have started producing the second generation of the polar car. Kalina-1 is presented in three bodies:
sedan, model 1118;
hatchback, 1119;
station wagon (Combi), 1117.
Kalina-1 is equipped with three types of gasoline engines:
1.4 L 16-valve 11194 89 hp With.;
1.6 L 8-valve 21114 (81 HP);
1.6 L 16-valve 21126 (98 HP).
On the first generation car, only a manual gearbox with five gears is provided. The front suspension of the VAZ car is a typical MaCpherson; a beam with a stabilizer, shock absorbers and springs is installed on the rear axle.
Major breakdowns with the car are rare, but there are enough various unpleasant little things. The clutch on a VAZ car is not distinguished by high reliability and a long resource, regardless of the type of engine, and it can fail at a mileage of 40-50 thousand km. The main reason for the breakdown is a collapsed clutch disc.
In the engine, it is necessary to constantly monitor the oil level - it can go through the gaskets, burn through the piston rings. Only the oil pressure emergency lamp is installed on the instrument cluster, there is no dial indicator. When the indicator is constantly on, it may be too late - the crankshaft will knock.
A well-known disease of all VAZ gearboxes is an increased hum. It is difficult to get rid of the noise of the gearbox; in some cases, even replacing the bearings, filling in high-quality gear oil does not help. The checkpoint is howling on new cars, so AvtoVAZ has repeatedly modified the transmission.
Also, starting with the "eights" and "nines", the thermostat in the engine was considered a problematic part, and the valve in it could jam in any position. It is unpleasant if the engine does not warm up to the desired operating temperature, but when the engine overheats it is even worse.
In an electrician on Lada Kalina-1, three main problems most often arise:
bearings and diode bridge quickly "die" in the generator;
the ignition module often fails;
the power window cable of the driver's door is torn.
If the ignition coil is punctured, either the first and fourth or second and third cylinders in the engine stop working. The breakage of the ESP cable occurs due to the fact that it jumps off its guides.
The reason for the appearance of the crunching of the outer SHRUS is the lack of lubrication, the thrifty plant workers put it in a little. As a result, there is intense wear of the hinges, and the "grenade" has to be changed.
A broken timing belt is always unpleasant, but if on an 8-valve 21114 you can change the belt drive and go further, then on motors 11194 and 21126 valves bend from the oncoming impact with pistons, and repair is quite expensive. A break can also occur due to a jammed water pump, therefore, if the pump is noisy, it must be urgently changed.
Lada Kalina-1 - the car is quite simple, and the driver can fix many breakdowns on his own. For example, it will not be difficult with your own hands;
remove the airlock from the cooling system;
eliminate the bounce of the gearshift knob;
replace the engine air filter;
change the water pump;
replace the diode bridge in the generator;
install a new outer CV joint instead of the crunchy old drive;
replace the ignition module.
In Lada Kalina, do-it-yourself repairs should be carried out according to the instructions, use high-quality auto mechanic tools, if necessary, do the work with the help of pullers and special equipment.
It is possible to change the external "grenade" to "Kalina" without a lift or a pit, but the car must be installed on a level surface. We make the replacement as follows:
first of all, we loosen and unscrew the hub nut - when the wheel is removed, it will be problematic to move it;
we loosen the wheel nuts, jack up the car, dismantle the wheel. To prevent the car from rolling, it is necessary to put stops under the rear wheels, and put a support (for example, a wooden bar) in front of the jack next to the jack for safety net;
turn off the ball joint bolts from below (2 pcs.);
we pull out the steering knuckle towards ourselves, release the wheel drive;
remove the clamps from the boot;
we take the boot closer to the gearbox, knock down the outer CV joint through a bronze or copper drift;
install the new part in place, stuff the grease into the hinge, fix the boot on the CV joint with new clamps;
we assemble all parts.
The cooling system can "air" for various reasons, and first of all, the stove in the cabin stops blowing warm air, the temperature rises, the antifreeze boils. If you squeeze the upper and lower radiator pipes, you feel that they are empty, there is no coolant in them. Often, "airing" occurs after replacing the stove radiator, and it is sometimes very difficult to remove air from the system. Alternatively, you can install an additional tee on the lower pipe of the heater under the hood, and lead the new hose into the expansion tank from above; put a plug in the lower pipe from the tank to the lower radiator pipe.
On an 8-valve VAZ-21114 engine, on average, the resource of a water pump is about 70-100 thousand kilometers, and if it starts to make noise or leak, it must be replaced. It should be noted that on all models 2108-15, Lada Priore and Kalina with an 8-valve internal combustion engine, the pump changes according to the same principle.
Replace the water pump as follows:
we drain the antifreeze from the cooling system;
remove the plastic timing belt cover;
if the timing belt does not need to be changed, then the crankshaft pulley is not removed, respectively, it is not necessary to dismantle the right wheel;
we set a mark on the camshaft - it should match the ebb on the rear timing case;
weaken the tension roller, remove the belt from the camshaft;
unscrew the three pump mounting bolts with a hexagon, take out the pump;
put a new pump in place, put on a belt, tighten with a tension roller, check the alignment of marks, on the crankshaft the mark is on the flywheel, under the rubber plug of the gearbox housing;
fill in the antifreeze, start the engine, check if the antifreeze is leaking, and if the pump is noisy. If everything is in order, put the timing case back in place.
Replacing the air filter on the Lada Kalina (engine 21114) is very simple, we perform the work in the following order:
unscrew the four screws of the upper cover of the air filter housing, for this you need a regular Phillips screwdriver;
lift the top cover, remove the filter element;
we install a new filter in place;
we tighten the four screws of the VF case.
It is recommended to replace the filter element on Lada Kalina every 30 thousand kilometers, but if the car is operated in a dusty area, the filter element should be changed more often.
If on a Lada Kalina car the power window cable becomes unusable or the motor burns out, the ESP must be changed. The replacement operation is performed in the following order:
dismantle the power window control unit;
remove the door trim;
to disconnect the window lifter from the glass, the latter must be lifted all the way up;
unscrew the four bolts that secure the glass to the ESP (two in the front and two in the back). The glass is supported by seals, but it can also be secured so that it does not fall down;
unscrew the black metal bar (three screws);
we unscrew the eleven fasteners of the window regulator (bolts for 10), disconnect the power plug from the electric motor;
we start to take out the power window from the back, first we take out one half of it;
then we take out the front part together with the motor from the door cavity;
A burned-out electric motor on a lift can be easily changed. For this:
we unscrew three pins on the body of the mechanism, then four more screws;
dismantle the motor, holding the reel with the cable by hand, install a new part;
we mount the window regulator in the door, connect it to the glass guides, put the trim in place.
A characteristic disease of Lada Kalina is bouncing in the area of the gear lever, it is especially well heard at engine speeds of about 3000. The cause of the extraneous sound is the bushing, which is a little thicker than necessary, and therefore a gap is created in the connection. To eliminate the defect, we proceed as follows:
remove the handle cover, it is fastened with latches;
turn the nut and bolt with two keys for 13;
remove the washers and bushings, the design looks like this;
to exclude bouncing, the bushing (the one in the middle) can be slightly sharpened in width, or grease the connection with a sealant;
after completing the action, we collect everything back. The sealant does not always help, but sharpening the sleeve by 0.3 mm gives the desired effect.
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If the owner of the Lada Kalina car detected the presence of extraneous knocks in the front suspension, then in this case, a thorough diagnosis of the entire chassis will be required, and probably repair, sometimes the replacement of silent blocks is required. The generally known condition of domestic roads leads to increased wear of the suspension components. Next, let's talk about the front suspension device.
A detailed examination of the design features of the front suspension in the Lada Kalina immediately reveals its main elements - shock absorbers, which are attached to the pivot pin with their lower bracket. In this unit, fixing is carried out by means of two bolts with nuts, and the upper of the fixing components allows you to adjust the wheel alignment angle (camber).
The upper part of the strut (shock absorber rod) is fixed in a support with a bearing with a nut. The support itself is attached by means of three nuts to the cup of the body side member. This structural unit is necessary to enable the strut to rotate while the vehicle is turning.
The post reacts to unevenness of the road surface with its moving element - the rod. There is a spring in the strut assembly that allows you to damp vibration of the shock absorber, thereby ensuring the smooth rocking of the body during the passage of irregularities.
Note that in Lada Kalina, the front suspension has an independent design. Levers on each side are individually connected to the body and steering knuckles.
An important component of the chassis is the stabilizer, which allows you to maintain the stability of the body during lateral displacements, which is especially important when cornering at speed.
It is also worth mentioning the stretch marks, which allow to level the longitudinal vibrations of the body during sudden starts and braking.
Knocks and squeaks coming from the front suspension are direct evidence of the appearance of damage to its elements. Note that the stern suspension reminds of itself with malfunctions much less frequently. It is structurally simpler, and its main element is a torsion beam, which is held by trailing arms on the body and connected into one system with the shock-absorbing struts.
To concretize the malfunction, one should resort to a visual inspection of the suspension elements. In most cases, this practice bears fruit, and the identified worn part is replaced. There are cases of inability to independently determine the breakdown in a visual way. Here you will need to contact the service for a more thorough diagnosis. As an example, such a case may be the knocking of the rod inside the shock absorber strut.
Let's go back to the inspection. To do this, the Lada Kalina car should be hung out with a lifting device or positioned over the pit. In this case, you will need to stock up on a jack for alternately hanging each side of the car. During diagnostics, each element of the chassis is checked individually. The rubber-metal liners of the levers and stabilizer struts, the integrity of the anthers of the ball joints and steering tips are examined. Also, attention is paid to the racks. They are examined for the absence of fluid leaks and the presence of the integrity of the anthers with bumpers.
When there is a fact of violation of the integrity of these components, as well as if, when exposed to the ball joint of the lever or tip with a mount, they emit a characteristic metallic sound, then they urgently need to be replaced.
The rear suspension is diagnosed much faster. It doesn't have as many pivot joints as the front undercarriage. Inspection consists in assessing the condition of the racks. It is also recommended to pay attention to the condition of the muffler suspensions during this event. Sometimes a dangling exhaust pipe can reproduce knocking on the body and suspension components, misleading the owner.
If we consider the chassis of LADA Kalina in a universal and "cross" body design, then these structures are endowed with some differences among themselves. The front suspension of the station wagon is identical to other bodywork variations and requires serious refinement in order for the handling and stability to become a source of pride for the owner.
The "cross" version of LADA Kalina is equated to "light" off-road vehicles, therefore the elements of its chassis are reinforced and have greater rigidity. Also, due to the increased ground clearance, this modification shows better cross-country ability.
The front suspension in LADA Kalina is quite simple and reliable. Its design has been "tested" on the previous generation of the model. The manufacturer in this matter went to meet the buyers and made the chassis of the Russian car suitable for repairs.
Also, as we have seen, the option of tuning the suspension is possible, the main thing is to know the device of the front suspension, it will come in handy if you need to replace the silent blocks. This solution is popular among owners, because it allows you to improve and balance the characteristics of the chassis, which in turn gives comfort while driving.
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This site is dedicated to Lada Kalina cars in sedan, hatchback and station wagon bodies. It is regularly updated and supplemented with new articles on the repair, maintenance and operation of the car. All repair or maintenance procedures are accompanied by photographs with detailed descriptions of the actions.If you still have questions, you can safely ask them in the comments, blog members will help you solve it as quickly as possible. In the top menu there is a section “Reviews”, where many Kalinovody share their experience of owning and operating, as well as general impressions of the car.
All machine repair work is done by hand using a set of tools JONNESWAY, Ombra, etc., which are ideal for all types of Kalina repair work. Each article describes in maximum detail the procedure for replacing certain parts and spare parts, and also contains a step-by-step photo report of the work done.
All maintenance issues are discussed, from pulling bolts and joints to work such as replacing consumables yourself. The materials on the site are supplemented with photographs as much as possible to show the entire process of performing a particular procedure.
The comfort and safety of travel in any car, including the Lada Kalina, largely depends on the state of the silent blocks of the front and rear suspensions. Replacing silent blocks on Kalina can be done by specialists, and if desired, with their own hands.
Someone may have a question about how to know when it's time to replace the silent blocks? There are many signs of this, they manifest themselves with "noise" and a change in the behavior of the car while driving. Most often, drivers pay attention to extraneous knocks emitted from the areas of the front or rear wheels.
The worn rubber-metal hinge on the Lada Kalina needs replacement.
For those owners who will carry out the replacement on their own, we will describe an approximate procedure algorithm. The work of replacing the silent blocks of Lada Kalina is best done on a lift, overpass, inspection pit.
If this is not observed nearby, you can replace the silent blocks on the garage floor or a suitable site. For work, you will need tools and accessories, as well as a car jack or racks for the car body. Don't forget to purchase a set of new spare parts. If everything is ready to go, you can start. First of all, we will consider how the silent blocks of the Kalina front suspension are replaced.
When replacing rubber-metal hinges on a lift, overpass or inspection pit, you do not need to remove the wheels. If the work is done on the floor, this will have to be done.
Let's look at the order of work:
First of all, it is necessary to treat all threaded connections with WD 40 liquid, and give it time to penetrate into the joints;
After some time, you can begin to untwist the connections in the front suspension. First of all, the ball joint is removed, for this they pull out the cotter pin and unscrew the nut from the bolt;
Next, you need to disconnect the bolt that secures the longitudinal brace and its hinge. After that, you need to remove it and free up the seat;
At the next stage, the stabilizer post mount is disconnected;
Now it's the turn of the bracket for the wishbone, when the bolt and nut are removed, the lever is removed.
Further, an operation to remove the worn out silent blocks of the front suspension of Lada Kalina is to be performed. To facilitate this procedure, you will need a powerful vice, a hammer, and a chisel. A thin metal screwdriver can be used. When the hinge is badly worn, it can happen that the outer shell remains in the lever cage. It needs to be knocked out, and the seat is thoroughly cleaned. The installation of new parts is also carried out in a vice. Two daisies are installed in one socket of the hinge, one on each side. Before this, the hinge is treated with soapy water, after which it is installed. The final "fine-tuning" of the installation of the rubber-metal hinge is carried out by light hammer blows around the circumference until it is fully seated.
The largest silent block of the Lada Kalina's front suspension is located at the base of the front levers. Replacing the silent blocks of the front suspension of the Lada Kalina is done without any particular difficulties. The biggest problems are to be expected when retrieving it. Sometimes it is impossible to squeeze it out in a vice, then it is simply burned out. When the rubber in the hinge burns out, all that remains is to get the outer cage.
Replacing silent blocks on Kalina with your own hands can also be done on the rear suspension of the car. In addition to new parts, you will need a jack with a stand, a "bucket", a set of wrenches, a puller, and other locksmith tools. Their choice depends on the location of the replacement of the silent blocks of Lada Kalina, their condition.
Replacing the silent blocks of the Kalina rear beam can be done on a level surface. The car is lifted with a car jack, placed on a stand, and the wheel is removed. After that, the lever of the pressure regulator in the brake system is disconnected, the parking brake cable is released. Further, with keys 19, unscrew the nut from the bolt securing the lever in the body bracket. When the lever drops down a little, you can begin to remove the hinges. This operation is usually performed using a puller, but sometimes you can get by with improvised means.
It is also necessary to press in the hinge with a device, having previously treated it with soapy water, this will facilitate its installation. Assembly is carried out in reverse order. After installing the wheels in their places, you should swing the car several times, then finally tighten the nuts on the bolts of the levers. It is advisable in the future, after a short mileage, to stretch the nuts again, check the installation angles of the wheels. Here is a rough algorithm for replacing hinges. If you have any more questions, the answers to them will be given by replacing the silent blocks of Kalina in the video:
Video (click to play).
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