Lada Priora do it yourself 21126 engine repair

In detail: lada priora do-it-yourself 21126 engine repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

The appearance in 2008 of the Lada Priora car caused a sensation among fans of the domestic brand. First of all, the 21126 engine with a lightweight piston group, which was being finalized by German engineers, attracted attention. The resource of the engine is often more than indicated by the manufacturer (200,000 km, in fact more). In this article, I will talk about how to select and repair the engine correctly in order to get a little more power at the output and a higher resource.

A small digression. Due to the high cost of high-quality parts, many will consider my overhaul option impractical, but in my case, the engine resource, in the worst case, will be at least 350,000 km. Some details will be tuning.

Pistons. Firm STI. The piston material is forged. The pistons have valve grooves to prevent the piston from being pulled out if the valve belt breaks. The point of a forged piston is that it retains strength while being lightweight and also has knock resistance. The compression ratio increases, instead of 11 there will be 11.8. Molycote anti-friction coating is applied to the piston surface.
We purchase standard connecting rods, they are durable and lightweight.
Mahle piston rings. Many motorists know about the reliability of this company, therefore the rings do not need a special introduction.
We leave the flywheel as standard; if desired, you can remove 1 kg from the surface.
Crankshaft oil seals of the domestic company BRT, which has shown itself from the very best side for a long time.
We also purchase domestic inserts.

Factory new camshafts.
Timing gears, aluminum, adjustable.
Valves from AMP are nitrided. They are resistant to high temperatures.
Bronze valve guides and seats. Bronze has the ability to remove heat.
Oil seals for Victor reinz valves.
Standard valve springs.
The empty cylinder head is ground to a level surface, and protrusions in the channels are removed, until a smooth surface is obtained.
I recommend purchasing cylinder head bolts from a Payen Fiat car. They are able to maintain high compression for the entire service life.

Video (click to play).

The intake manifold is purchased from PRO.CAR. Such a receiver allows you to align the torque shelf so that the thrust that appears at the bottom does not drop sharply to 6000 rpm.
We leave the throttle valve at the factory.
Nozzles from ZMZ 406 have a high throughput and are less prone to clogging.
Water pump from Luzar "Turbo" version.
We install the rest of the elements of the cooling system at the factory.
The oil pump can be left as standard, only to install new gears, or gears of increased productivity from PRO.CAR. Be sure to purchase a new oil receiver.
Timing belt kit reinforced by Gates.
Insert type exhaust manifold instead of catalyst.
New spark plugs and ignition coils.
Gasket set.
Reinforced engine mountings.

Before installing the parts, you need to give the cylinder head for grinding and installation of new parts. Then the assembly of the bottom is required.

For a high-quality assembly, you need a table of tightening of bolts and nuts of the engine, and using a torque wrench, tighten all the bolts of the engine. Be sure to lubricate each bolt with copper paste, and before installing the liners, grease the crankshaft journals well.

When installing new pistons, the cylinders must also be lubricated with oil. After installing the pistons, you need to turn the crankshaft several times. If the shaft scrolls without hesitation, then the assembly of the bottom was successful.It is imperative that all rubbing parts must be lubricated with oil to provide an oil film when starting the engine. In places where you need to apply sealant, you need to do this with the help of Victor Reinz sealant, then the leaks from under the valve cover will disappear.

I immediately recommend pouring oil no lower than Motul 5W40, which will provide all rubbing surfaces of the engine with an oil film. Oil and air filter from Bosch.

What is the approximate cost of the above parts?

The bottom of the motor will cost 24,000 rubles.
Cylinder head 16500r.
Hinged 20000 rub.
Oil and filter RUB 5000

Total, excluding work, spare parts come out at 65,500 rubles, or $ 1100. Such a repair for a domestic car is too high, since the assembly of the 21126 unit will cost 75,000 rubles, but in our case you will have a motor with a higher compression ratio, with a higher compression, good pick-up from below, reduced fuel consumption, power, approximately, 120 hp and a minimum resource of 350,000 km. If the belt breaks, the valves will no longer meet the valves, it will be enough to set the marks and install a new belt. Since there will be a long intake manifold and an exhaust manifold without a catalyst, the engine will “breathe” more freely, which means fuel consumption will decrease and power will increase.

An important factor is correct running-in and timely maintenance, which will contribute to the stable operation of the engine throughout its entire service life. I highly recommend carrying out the following activities:

every 7-8 thousand km. change oil and all filters;
with each oil change, remove the oil receiver and clean it;
clean the throttle valve every 20,000 km;
pour G11 antifreeze into the cooling system and change it every 3 years;
pour gasoline with octane number A-95;
change the timing belt every 50,000 km.

If you want to increase engine power by installing wide-phase camshafts, a direct-flow exhaust system, a throttle valve with a diameter of 52-56 mm, boring cylinder head channels, and get 150 hp at the output, then the engine resource will decrease to the factory mark of 200,000 km. For stable operation of the engine, it is not necessary to put “shafts” with a very wide phase, otherwise the engine will work unstably and “spit out” gasoline into the exhaust pipe.

Whether it is worth investing in the repair of the motor of a domestic car - everyone chooses for himself. It is known that the resource and stable operation of the engine requires serious investments.

Disassembly, assembly of the Lada Priora engine is carried out during engine overhaul. After disassembling, revising and replacing worn parts, you must reassemble the engine according to the procedure below.
In fact, during an overhaul of the engine, the piston group is changed; if necessary, the cylinders are bored to match the overhaul size of the pistons.

You will need: a torque wrench, a hammer (preferably with a striker made of soft metal or polyurethane), a device for installing pistons into cylinders, the same keys as for disassembling the engine, a screwdriver, and a mounting blade.

1. Clean the carbon deposits from the edges of the cylinder block beds. Clean deposits from oil grooves in beds.

2. Install the main bearing shells in the cylinder block bed in accordance with the marks made during disassembly. When installing the liners, their locking antennae should fit into the grooves of the beds.

3. Lubricate the liners with engine oil.

Warning
After installing the liners in bed, their ends protrude slightly outward, therefore, for the correct orientation of the liners, when final tightening the bearing cap bolts, make sure that the protrusion of both ends is the same.

4. Install the crankshaft into the cylinder block.

5. Lubricate persistent half rings with engine oil. Pay attention to the grooves of the half rings: with these sides, the half rings must be installed to the cheeks of the crankshaft.

6.Install the steel / aluminum half ring (white) from the front of the center bed (camshaft drive end).

7.. sintered metal (yellow) - on the other side of the bed.

8. Rotate the half rings so that their ends are flush with the ends of the bed.

9. Insert the shells into the main bearing caps according to the marks made during disassembly. In this case, the retaining antennae of the liners must enter the grooves of the covers.

10. Lubricate the liners with engine oil.

11. Install the covers according to the marks. The covers are marked (notches) in accordance with the cylinder number. The exception is the fifth cover, on which two marks are applied, as well as on the second. The second cover has two threaded holes 1 for the oil receiver mounting bolts. In this case, the cylinder numbers are counted from the side of the camshaft drive, and the covers are installed with marks 2 in the opposite direction from the oil filter fitting 3.

Warning
Use a soft-faced hammer made of brass, lead, or polyurethane to install the crankshaft main bearing caps. It is prohibited to install the covers by tightening the fasteners, as this will damage the seating surfaces of the covers and the cylinder block.

12. Lubricate the threads and ends of the cap bolts with engine oil.

13. Fasten the bolts and tighten them to the required torque (see Appendix 1) in the following order: first tighten the bolts of the third cover, then the second and fourth, then the first and fifth. After tightening the bolts, turn the crankshaft 2-3 turns - it should rotate easily, without jamming. 14. For ease of installation, lubricate the oil pump gasket with a thin layer of grease and "glue" it to the block. Remove excess grease. 15. Install the oil pump and tighten the bolts of its fastening (see "Removing and installing the oil pump on a VAZ 2170 2171 2172 Lada Priora") 16. For ease of installation, lubricate the rear oil seal holder gasket with a thin layer of grease and "glue" it to the block. Remove excess grease. 17. Install the rear oil seal holder and tighten the bolts to secure it.

18. Insert the connecting rod into the piston in accordance with the previously made marks so that the number of the uterus on the connecting rod faces the front of the piston (the arrow is directed to this side, knocked out on the top of the piston crown).

19. Lubricate the piston pin with engine oil and insert the pin into the piston and connecting rod.

20. Install retaining rings on both sides of the pin. When doing this, pay attention to the fact that the rings must be clearly installed in the grooves of the piston.

Warning
A ring that is not clearly fixed in the piston groove will jump out of it when the engine is running and cause accidental damage.

21. Install the oil scraper ring expander on the piston. 22. Install the piston rings. It is recommended to do this with a special puller. If not, install the rings on the piston, carefully spreading the ring locks. 23. The order of installing the rings: the oil scraper ring is installed first (the ring lock should be on the opposite side of the release spring lock), then the lower compression ring, the last - the upper compression ring. 24. Please note that rings may be embossed with “GOE” or “TOP”. The rings should be installed with this inscription upwards (towards the piston bottom).

25. After turning the rings in the piston grooves, make sure that they rotate easily. If any ring does not turn or is seized, it must be replaced. 26. Expand the rings on the piston so that their locks are at an angle of 120 ° to each other. 27. Thoroughly wipe the crankshaft connecting rod journals with a clean cloth.

28. Thoroughly wipe the cylinder mirrors with a clean rag and lubricate them with engine oil.

29. Insert the insert into the connecting rod in accordance with the previously made marks so that the tab of the insert goes into the groove in the connecting rod. Then lubricate the liner and piston with engine oil. thirty.Place a special piston ring compression mandrel on the piston and gently lower the connecting rod into the cylinder. It is recommended to pre-rotate the crankshaft so that its connecting rod journal, on which the connecting rod-piston group is mounted, is set at BDC. The arrow on the piston crown should point towards the front of the engine (towards the camshaft drive).

31. Press the mandrel firmly against the block and use the hammer handle to push the piston into the cylinder. If the mandrel does not fit snugly against the cylinder block, the piston rings could break.

32. Install the lower end of the connecting rod on the crankshaft journal.

33. Insert the insert into the connecting rod cover in accordance with the previously made marks so that the insert of the insert goes into the groove in the cover. Then lubricate the liner with engine oil.

34. Install the connecting rod cover. The connecting rod markings on the cover and the lower end of the connecting rod must be on the same side.

35. Fasten the cover fixing bolts and tighten to the required torque (see appendix). Install the rest of the pistons in the same way.
36. Install the oil receiver and tighten the three bolts of its fastening.
37. Apply an anaerobic thread lock to the flywheel mounting bolts. Install the flywheel, lock plate and tighten the flywheel mounting bolts (see "Removal, installation and troubleshooting of a flywheel on a VAZ 2170 2171 2172 Lada Priora").
38. For ease of installation, apply a thin layer of grease to the surface of the block and "glue" the oil sump gasket to it.
39. Install the oil sump and tighten the bolts of its fastening (see appendix). Next, assemble the engine in the reverse order. The installation of the block head is described in the subsection "Replacing the cylinder head gasket on a VAZ 2170 2171 2172 Lada Priora", the camshaft drive belt - in the subsection "Replacing the timing belt and tension roller".

Years of release - (2007 - present)
Cylinder block material - cast iron
Power system - injector
Type - in-line
Number of cylinders - 4
Valves per cylinder - 4
Piston stroke - 75.6mm
Cylinder diameter - 82mm
Compression ratio - 11
Prior's engine displacement - 1597 cc.
Lada Priora engine power - 98 hp. / 5600 rpm
Torque - 145Nm / 4000 rpm
Fuel - AI95
Fuel consumption - city 9.8 liters. | track 5.4 liters. | mixed 7.2 l / 100 km
Oil consumption in the Priora engine - 50 g / 1000 km
Priory engine weight - 115 kg
Geometric dimensions of the Prior 21126 engine (LxWxH), mm -
Engine oil lada priora 21126:
5W-30
5W-40
10W-40
15W40
How much oil is in the engine priors: 3.5 liters.
When grounding, pour 3-3.2 liters.

Read also: DIY accordion repair

Priora engine resource:
1. According to the data of the plant - 200 thousand km
2. In practice - 200 thousand km

TUNING
Potential - 400+ HP
Without loss of resource - up to 120 hp.

In 2015, the production of a sports engine NFR called 21126-81 began, which used the base 21126. And since 2016, cars are available with 1.8 liter 21179 engines, which also used the 126th block.

As pampering, you can play with sports firmware, but there will be no obvious improvement, see below how to raise the power correctly.

There are legends that the Priora engine produces 105, 110 and even 120 hp, and the power was underestimated to reduce the tax, even various measurements were carried out in which the car produced similar power ... what everyone decides for himself to believe, let's dwell on the indicators declared by the manufacturer. So, how to increase the engine power of the priors, how to charge it without resorting to anything special, for a small increase you need to let the motor breathe freely. We put the receiver, the exhaust is 4-2-1, the throttle valve is 54-56 mm and we get about 120 hp, which is nothing for the city.
Forcing the Priors engine will not be complete without sports camshafts, for example, STI-3 rollers with the above-described configuration will provide about 140 hp.and it will be a fast, great city motor.
The priors engine refinement goes further, a sawn cylinder head, Stolnikov shafts 9.15 316, light valves, 440cc injectors and your car easily produces more than 150-160 hp.

Let's start with how it is not necessary to increase the volume, an example would be the well-known VAZ 21128 engine, do not do this)). One of the simplest options to increase the volume is to install a motorcycle kit, for example, STI, we choose it for our 197.1 mm block, but do not forget about the jambs of the 128th motor, do not rush to put a long-stroke knee. You can go the other way and purchase a high block 199.5 mm prior, 80 mm crankshaft, bore cylinders up to 84 mm and a connecting rod 135.1 mm finger 19 mm, this will add up to 1.8 volume and without damage to R / S, the motor can be turn freely, put evil shafts and squeeze out more power than on the usual 1.6l. To spin up your motor even more, you can build up the standard block with a plate, how to do it, how it spins on 4 throttle inlets and wide shafts, and most importantly, how it goes is shown in the video below, we look:

There are many methods for building a turbo prior, let's see the urban version as more adapted to operation. Such options are most often built on a TD04L turbine, niva pistons with grooves, shafts ideally Stolnikov 8.9 can be USA 9.12 or similar, 440cc injectors, 128 receiver, 56 damper, exhaust on a 63 mm pipe. All this junk will give more than 250 hp, and how it will go, watch the video

ENGINE RATING: 3+ Domestic cars VAZ 2170 Priora are equipped with two versions of gasoline 4-cylinder engines: 8-valve VAZ 21116 and 16-valve powerful VAZ 21126, developed on the basis of the VAZ 2112 engine.16 valves in the engine design with the same cylinder displacement increase the power of the power unit in comparison with an 8-valve option. The Lada Priora injection engine is equipped with a catalytic converter of exhaust gases, combined with an exhaust manifold in one housing, and a fuel injection distribution mechanism.Lada Priora has been produced by the domestic concern AvtoVAZ since 2007. This is one of the mass-produced budget cars of a small class that replaced the Lada 2110. Production of the Priora will be discontinued at the end of 2016 due to the release of the more modern Lada Vesta model on the assembly line. Compared to the engines of the previous Lada models, the new Priora power units with 16 valves became 10.5% more powerful, and also received an additional resource of 50 thousand km of work and a lightweight connecting rod and piston group.The cylinder head and timing system are located above the block. The base of the head is cast from an aluminum alloy, with internal tunnels for the flow of liquid to lower the temperature, merged with the glasses of the candle wells, near which there are places for placing the ignition coils.A pair of cast iron camshafts is inserted into the head, driving the valves. Fastening is made in the provided supports on one side, and bearings inserted into a specially fixed housing from the back.The camshafts are driven by a toothed elastic crankshaft belt. The cams on the shafts serve as the driving force for the valves with hydraulic pushers, which compensate for small clearances. This design eliminates the need to adjust a 16 valve system with 2 intake and 2 exhaust valves per cylinder with one spring each. It is the engine containing 16 valves that has the optimal fuel consumption and power output.The crankshaft has increased strength values due to high quality cast iron at its base. The grinding of the connecting rod and main journals is perfectly shaped to ensure stable engine performance. They are lubricated using special channels with plugs.At the base of the crankshaft, counterweights are made that reduce engine vibration. The crankshaft drives the oil pump, camshaft belt pulley and generator. The rear end of the crankshaft is equipped with a toothed flywheel in the form of a steel rim.Cylinder block and cooling system. The cast iron base of the block provides reliability and rigidity to the body. Its lower part has 5 main bearings of the crankshaft with thin liners made of aluminum alloy, realizing the operation of bearings. The middle support contains grooves with supporting half rings, excluding the movement of the crankshaft along the axis.Cooling of the motor is carried out thanks to the so-called. cooling jacket, which are the channels at the base of the block in which the liquid flows for cooling. Such a system contributes to good heat dissipation from the piston group and prevents deformation of the block body during overheating. Additionally, to prevent engine overheating, a radiator, a water pump with an expansion tank and hoses, and a fan are installed.

The connecting rod-piston group consists of forged steel connecting rods and aluminum pistons with three rings: compression at the edges and an oil scraper in the middle. The caps on the lower ends of the connecting rods have thin bushings, while the bronze and steel bushings are pressed into the upper heads. The special design of the flat-bottomed pistons has 4 recesses each for 16 valves.The lubrication system has a universal circuit consisting of an oil gear pump, a steel crankcase at the bottom of the cylinder block, a filter, channels and an oil pressure sensor. Thus, the oil supply is achieved in two ways: under pressure and by spray.The ignition system is made up of candles and coils located on the block cover. The motor ECU is the trigger mechanism for the coils through which the candles function.The Priora power unit has an upper installation of camshafts and a timing belt drive. The considered injection engine VAZ 21126 has 16 valves with in-line cylinders and exhaust standards under Euro 3. Its main characteristics are shown in the table:Technical parameters of the engine 21126:When operating the Lada Priora, you should adhere to some recommendations and prevent wear of parts and breakdowns of the main units, service all necessary systems in time, which is directly related to the operation of the engine. It should be noted the basic rules that each Lada Priora owner should follow to increase the resource of the power unit:

1. Prevent overheating of the motor by monitoring the readings of the engine temperature sensor;

2. Avoid sharp cooling of the engine in case of possible overheating, which can provoke deformation of some of its parts and refusal in further work. In such a situation, it is necessary to let the engine idle with the hood open and the warm air blowing system turned on at maximum. This will save the circulation of the coolant in the cylinder block and accelerate the cooling of the engine;

3. Depress the clutch pedal while starting the 16-valve Lada Priora engine in low air temperature conditions. This will save battery power and eliminate the possibility of a sharp jerk of the car when the gear is engaged;

4. Use only high-quality lubricants and fuels recommended by the manufacturer. Timely carry out all the planned maintenance of Lada Priora systems and mechanisms;

5. Practice an economical driving style that guarantees maximum engine life.

Experienced car owners have the skills to determine engine breakdowns by the quality of Priora exhaust gases:

Bluish smoke indicates the presence of lubricants inside the combustion chamber. Regular blue smoke also indicates significant wear on the connecting rod-piston group and cylinders. The wear of the valve stem seals of 16 engine valves provokes increased smoke during prolonged idling or sudden braking;

Black smoke occurs when an excessively rich mixture is formed, which indicates a breakdown in the engine management system or injectors;

Grayish and white saturated smoke indicates the presence of moisture in the exhaust gases, which is a consequence of a defect in the gasket of the block head, and, therefore, leakage of cooling liquid into the combustion chamber. This factor is normal during cold and wet weather.

Among the main problem areas of the Lada Priora engine, it is worth noting the following:

Breakdown of the pump (liquid pump), which can cause the engine to overheat;

Leakage of liquid at the points of connection of the radiator tubes;

Mixing the timing belt tension roller, which is accompanied by a gradually increasing hum when driving;

Oil leakage under the valve cover.

Overhaul of the Lada Priora engine is not a difficult process. You just need to first disassemble the unit, then look for broken or worn out elements, replace them, and then assemble the motor.

After that, you need to check how the engine works. Such simple manipulations will help to update the unit and improve its performance. But major repairs must be carried out on time. Only then will it be possible to save the resource.The VAZ 2170 model received several power plants, but the most popular engine on the Prioru is a gasoline unit with 16 valves and a volume of 1.6 liters. In various automotive forums, it is called briefly - 126 (number). Responsible drivers take a long time to think about which car to buy, and the engine plays an important role in this matter. Resource, operating temperature, price of a new motor, analysis - our review will answer all these questions.The manufacturer claims that the 126 16-valve motor can operate stably over 200 thousand kilometers. After this limit, the power plant requires a major overhaul. But do not forget that AvtoVAZ is a real lottery, for some Priora owners the motor caught a wedge at 2 thousand. But if you take good care of the Lada car, regularly perform maintenance and replace damaged components, then you can safely count on a resource of 150-200 thousand kilometers.Many factors affect the resource of the power plant, here are some of them:

Overheat... Engine operation on Priora at elevated temperatures significantly reduces its resource. The operating temperature, which we will talk about in the next section, must be kept at the same level.

Fuel... The operating manual indicates which gasoline must be poured into the engine number 126 with 16 valves. It is also recommended to visit only proven gas stations, where you will not be poured with diluted fuel.

Motor oil... Everything is simple here - change the lubricant in a timely manner and buy high-quality oils, then the resource will be 150-200 thousand km. For 16 valve unit 126, semisynthetics (Lada recommendation) and synthetics are suitable. It is necessary to change the oil once a year or every 15 thousand kilometers, as you can see, the fluid has a small resource.

We learned the resource, now we turn to another important indicator. The optimum operating temperature is 90-95 ° C. After 97 ° C, motor number 126 with 16 valves will slow down a little, but according to the rules, temperatures up to 100 ° C are considered normal. If the Lada unit is operated with such an indicator, then you need to be sure that the radiator fan is working at this time. When the dashboard you see a reading below + 90 ° C, then you need to take it - this is underheating. Of course, in the cold of the power plant, it takes more time for the temperature to reach the normal level.

Working temperature - 90-95 ° C.

Normal temperature (engine runs worse) - 97-110 ° C.

Reduced temperature - 90 ° C and below.

Each engine in a Lada Priora car bends a valve, this also applies to the most powerful unit number 126 to 16. This will be told to you in any service center that maintains domestic cars. But novice drivers should be aware that the motor bends components for a reason, and if you follow the operating rules, you will not encounter this problem.The power plant Lada bends parts only if the routine work on replacing the belt and other components of the gas distribution mechanism (timing) is violated. The motor bends the valve if the rollers, belt or water pump were not replaced in time. When one of these elements breaks, the number 126 pistons meet the valves. Because of this design feature, the motor bends the parts. The solution to the problem is the overhaul of the Lada.So, the task of the owner of a Lada Priora with an engine number 126 of 16 cl is to check the timing in a timely manner.The condition of the belt should be checked every 50 thousand kilometers (according to the plant's recommendations - 100 thousand) - it should not have cracks, delamination, or breaks. If they are present, the belt needs to be changed urgently. Mandatory repairs take place after 200 thousand kilometers.Rollers and timing pump number 126 should also be given attention when examining the belt. After all, the engine bends parts even with faulty rollers. Sometimes the timing belt and its components wear out ahead of time - you will know about this from the vibrations from the engine compartment and the unpleasant grinding noise. Engine number 126 bends the valve, so do not forget to change timing components in time and repair this unit.As it turned out, buying a new unit of 16 valves on a Lada Priora is an expensive pleasure. Today you can buy a 16 valve 1.6 liter EURO-3 and EURO-4 engine. The first option costs about 102 thousand rubles, and the second - 103 thousand. Also, motorists are interested in how much it costs to purchase a supported unit on a Lada. Used can be purchased even for 20 thousand rubles.But in what condition this unit you can find out only after a complete analysis or a trip to a car service. The average price for a used one is 50-60 thousand rubles.Repair is carried out according to the standard scheme - we find faulty parts and replace them with working ones. The instructions below describe the process of disassembling the unit itself, before that you need to dismantle it from the Lada Priora and thoroughly clean it of grease and dirt.Of the tools, we need ordinary and spanner wrenches, a ratchet with an extension cord, screwdrivers, a pry bar and a stand. It is best to carry out repairs in a garage with good lighting.

Using the 13th key, remove the bracket fasteners. 4 nuts hold the front support of the cylinder block;

We remove the bracket and go to the left support - it is removed in exactly the same way;

Thus, you can completely disassemble the motor for 16 valves and carry out repairs and replacement of defective parts. But if the unit bends the valve, then only an experienced mechanic can handle the faults with his own hands. In any case, you will find out whether the motor is bending the valves or not, after dismantling the head cover.