DIY spinning repair varnish

In detail: DIY repair varnish for spinning from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Good day! Today we will talk about spinning rods, or to be more precise, about their tip. We all love to fish and sooner or later our rods break, this is a common thing. we are talking about this very part of the rod.

So what is the tip of a spinning rod? The tip of a spinning rod is, in other words, the end of the rod, very thin and fragile, which provides its flexibility, and in some cases it can even signal a bite, but this is only with a large catch.

Without this part, our tackle will most likely break if a large fish bites. We will not dwell on the concept of a tip in detail, since every fisherman knows what it is.

But what to do if it still breaks down? Of course, tip breakage is the worst case, with the exception of fatal rod breakage, but don't panic. There is always a way out.

There are two ways to solve this problem:

The first is a complete replacement if the tip cannot be repaired.
The second is manual repair.

First, determine the degree of damage to your tip, is it worth it to fork out and take a new one, or can it be repaired?

Consider the first method - a complete replacement of the tip. The moment the fisherman realizes that this part of the rod cannot be repaired, he begins to think about buying a new tip. The choice of tops is huge and you need to be able to choose the right ones.

Your action plan should be as follows:

Determine the model of your spinning rod;
Determine the diameter of the tip;
Go to the store and consult with a specialist;

Video (click to play).

You don't need to do too much, these three are enough. You can do it differently - in a simpler way. Take your spinning rod with you and go to the store to find the right part for your model. The first method is quite simple: you take a rod, take it to you, replace it - you pay.

The second method, that is, manual repair, is better than the first. It would seem easier to buy a new spinning tip than to tinker with yourself. But it wasn’t there, it’s worth buying a new part only when it’s impossible to fix it in any way. In all other cases, your own hands and head will help you.

By repairing yourself, you will eventually develop a skill that will be useful to you later.

For example, on a fishing trip, when you do not always have tools with you, you can easily fix the tip of a spinning rod with the help of scrap materials. And special craftsmen can earn money by repairing the tips and not only them, but also whole rods, because they have experience in this thanks to their own labor.

In general, the repair of the tip is as follows:

Pick up the tip, preferably without rings, but if it so happens that it still has rings, then carefully cut the glued part and remove them.
Correct selection is also necessary in order, otherwise the load on the blank will be unevenly distributed.
Visually determine from which ring most of the broken back needs to be inserted.
Under the attachment point of the ring we need, it is required to clean it with some tool (grinder or small foot). This is done so that the carbon does not delaminate.
Take a super glue (preferably one that makes contact with the plastic better) and pour it into the carbon part. We ground the pre-prepared fiberglass part a little and then insert these parts one into the other.
We tightly wrap the gluing place with black thread.
Apply glue to the wound thread to strengthen the connection and seal.
Wait for the glue to dry and your tip is ready.

Lead ring

Regarding the preparation of the tip, it should be taken into account that the rings must be taken from the same spinning rod and, using the priming principle, we prime the required part of the ring and the surface of the whip, we wind it with a thread and cover it with glue on top.

The distance between the rings can be adjusted by yourself, although it is advisable to proceed from the original dimensions.

You can finish the thick part of the whip with a small boot to match the diameter in the carbon part.

There is also another repair method in which the length and characteristics do not change:

First, you need to pick up a dense, but flexible twig, suitable for the role of a connector (in no case put solid rods or needles, because when you bite, your tip may break again).
The rod should fit snugly into both ends of the broken tip. After you are convinced that a good connector is selected, proceed to the preparation of the epoxy resin. This resin can be purchased at any market or store. It consists of glue and hardener.
Then they need to be mixed in the same proportion: 1 to 1. If you have problems with proportions, then the tubes probably have instructions. Glue both ends of your rod with glue, insert into both ends of the rod and connect the broken end to the main rod.
After that, wait 30-40 minutes until completely glued. In principle, these are all ways to repair the tip of your tackle.

Problems will bypass you, provided you follow these instructions. This concludes the story about the tops of the spinning rod. All the most important and necessary things were described in this article. Happy fishing and a big catch!

Good day. All of us have at least once, but fishing was spoiled by a breakdown of a spinning rod or fishing rod. Not so long ago, this trouble happened to my friend, who is also a fishing partner and a robot colleague. Since last year I also experienced bitterness from the breakage of the rod and then the joy of its restoration, I decided to help a friend in his misfortune and share with you a "recipe" for repair that I found on one Internet resource.

Here is a link.

Looking ahead, I have compiled a list of what we need for repairs:

electrical tape or masking tape;
food plastic wrap or cellophane bag;
file and fine sandpaper;
elastic band (it is better to have a round section);
a caliper for measuring the diameter of the blank and the wall thickness at the fracture site;
epoxy resin
two syringes for easy mixing of resin and hardener;
a paint brush or a screwdriver (flat) for applying resin to the bonding site, but still, the brush is more convenient)));
Cyanopan glue;
a sheet of thick thin paper (I used thick journal paper);
thread or thin braided cord;
nail polish remover.

And so let's start.

Below I will provide the text of the article, which I will supplement with my photos and comments.

Graphite is a brittle material, which is why spinning rods break down not so rarely. The blank can be critically overloaded during a hasty game of trophy, or broken by negligence during transportation in a boat or car. There are many reasons, the result is one - a ruined favorite instrument and a spoiled mood. By the way, this fate befell most often the upper knee. If the stick is expensive, from a well-known brand, you can order a new tip from the dealer, but it will take a lot of time and the shipping cost will cost at least half the cost of a new spinning rod. You can contact a company repair shop, there, too, they will take a lot of money for repairs, and this service is available only to residents of several megacities. You can try to restore the form yourself.

How to do it at home? This is what will be discussed.

Where to get the graphite material for the band? It is not specifically sold anywhere, and aircraft modelers use a completely different type of graphite material with cross-laid fibers. At one time, this question baffled me, nevertheless, the required material is always at hand. We need a "donor". I have it an old composite telescope "Volzhanka" (or rather, its butt knee). Any piece of unnecessary graphite fishing rod or spinning rod will do. “I decided this question by chance in one of the stores when I saw graphite (probably graphite) tips for rods about 50 cm long at UAH 15 each, they differed from the usual ones made of fiberglass at a price of 1.5-2 UAH pcs. and the fact that when annealed, the fiberglass will be shaggy, and from this tip two ribbons are obtained, one looks like a mesh and the other looks like a fabric made of unidirectional fibers (photos 1 and 2) "

From it we cut off the workpiece of the required length (according to the width of the future band) and, holding it with tweezers, gently anneal it on the fire of the gas stove. “Be sure to anneal in a well-ventilated room or on the street, because when epoxy burns, fumes, soot and an unpleasant odor are released. Relatives will definitely not like it)) »The epoxy resin burns out, and we get a clean graphite fabric with a very thin substrate
fiberglass between layers.

"In the second photo: from top to bottom, the" graphite "tip, the mesh that was most likely used to reinforce the blank and the so-called" graphite "fabric"

After cooling down, carefully disassemble the "fire victim". We are interested in a tape of vertically oriented graphite fibers, stitched with separate transverse threads. "In my" fire "there were no transverse threads" The thickness of such a fabric is usually 0.2 -0.3 mm. If the fabric falls apart, it can be lightly moistened with a spray bottle.

Preparing the form for gluing. If a pass ring is installed next to the fracture line (and this happens most often if the destruction occurred from overloading the blank), it must be carefully removed. After repair, it must be installed on the fracture line. From the blank at the place of repair, the varnish and decorative coating are removed to clean gray graphite fabric. This is best done with a diamond file and fine emery paper.

Photo 4 "I cleaned the place where the bandage was applied with fine sandpaper"

The next step is gluing the form. He needs to return the original geometry, the fracture areas at both ends should coincide with each other, and the blank should be perfectly straight. “That is, DO NOT CLEAN AND DO NOT ALIGN the ends of the blank, as the ends of the blank have broken, so let them remain, with steps and curvature." It plays the role of a guide and is made of thick tissue paper rolled into a tube.

photo 5 "I used thick journal paper")

The insert extends a couple of centimeters to both sides of the fracture and weighs practically nothing. “Based on bitter experience))) I strongly recommend that the paper insert not be made too long. Why? But because the paper becomes sour from epoxy as well as from water, and if the imposition of a bandage made of graphite drags on a little and the paper breaks from careless movement, then you can condemn yourself to picking out the paper from the insides of the form and start all over again. ... Yes, I completely forgot that I put the paper insert on Cyanopan glue, otherwise the paper insert will simply fall inside "

We glue the blank with any "five-minute" epoxy resin. “I used ordinary epoxy resin, which I bought in a store for 17 hryvnyas with a penny and bought syringes at a pharmacy for ease of dosing.

Before gluing, it is necessary to measure the wall thickness of the blank, this is necessary to calculate the thickness of the repair band.When the form is glued together, remove the excess glue and the remnants of the varnish coating on the working area with a file, its length with a simple fracture is equal to 8 diameters of the blank at the site of destruction. If there are linear cracks - plus one centimeter to both sides of their end. We mark the boundaries of the site on the form with pieces of masking tape. "Photo 7 shows that I used the tape incorrectly - this is my mistake, but about it later."

It remains to apply a repair bandage. Its width is equal to 6 diameters of the blank at the fracture site, and its thickness is 30-50% greater than the blank wall thickness. For example: the wall thickness of the blank in the destruction zone is 1.5 mm, and its diameter is 8 mm, the width of the band will be 44-50 mm, and its thickness is -2 mm. It is possible to make a bandage obviously thicker, so it is more convenient to work, and then simply remove the excess material with a file.

The next step is the application of a repair bandage. A strip of carbon cloth is lubricated with epoxy resin and wound around the repair area in several turns. On top of it we put a piece of thin plastic food wrap (food in the store is wrapped in it and it is always at hand). "But here it is better to take not a film, but a cellophane bag, it is easier to separate it from the gluing zone"

We take a small piece of round rubber thread and fix it with a simple knot in the middle of the bandage. Then, stretching it, tightly coil to coil we wind it from the middle to the edges and fix it with knots. "I fixed it with electrical tape, and there is one more nuance after we wound the elastic band and fixed it. MANDATORY check the geometry of the blank so that it is perfectly straight"

“Well, now about the error mentioned above. When sealing the bandage with an elastic band, excess resin will flow onto the form, so I advise you to make the boundaries of the bonding area on the photo 7 form as wide as possible so that all excess glue remains on the electrical tape or masking tape, and not on the form as I did "

At the same time, all excess resin is squeezed out of the gluing zone and the graphite fibers of the shroud are compacted. Its material in terms of resin content will be as close as possible to the material of the blank itself. There should not be a single gram of excess weight in the repair area, and the graphite of the lining will have maximum elasticity. When the epoxy resin has almost completely "stood up", remove the rubber and plastic wrap and with a rag moistened with acetone, remove the excess glue that has not completely hardened. Let the form dry completely within 24 hours. Then, with a file, we bring the thickness of the bandage to the required one and round off its ends (for aesthetic reasons).

photo 11 “this is what happened after removing the rubber band and film”

photo 12 “this is what happened after processing with a file and fine sandpaper”

It remains to install a passage ring on the fracture line. We fix its foot in the desired position with a drop of "second" glue or a rubber ring (put on the form in advance before repairing) and carefully, turn to turn, we tie it to the blank with a thin synthetic thread. A fly tying thread is best suited for this, it is sold in almost all fishing stores, you can replace it with a piece of thin braid, having previously removed a layer of fragile paint from it with a solvent. If the installation of the ring is not planned, the repair bandage must also be strengthened by winding the thread, in an area equal to 4 diameters of the blank at the place of repair. On top of the wound thread, bandage and stripped sections of the blank are covered with a thin layer of epoxy varnish.

The repair is over. The blank weight has increased by only a few grams, the correct tuning and tactile sensitivity "in the hand" are preserved. Thickening of the spinning rod at the place of repair, if a passage ring is installed on it, will be noticeable only with a meticulous examination.

In conclusion, a few words about epoxy used in repairs. It makes no sense to use domestically produced resin to apply a repair bandage.She is afraid of water and ultraviolet sunlight. Under their influence, it becomes cloudy and softened. Imported five-minute hardening resins are also not suitable, it polymerizes very quickly and the graphite fibers do not have time to soak in it. Requires a resin with a "set" time of at least 40 minutes and is resistant to water and light. For these purposes, epoxy glue and varnish designed for rod builders are ideal. I use resin and varnish produced by FLEX COAT, purchased in a fishing store (200 rubles for 200 g of resin, ideal in terms of quality), there are also analogues from other manufacturers on sale.

In this way, over a dozen broken spinning rods have been restored by me in recent years. “I have repaired two spinning rods so far))” According to the reviews of comrades, the repaired blanks in operation practically do not differ from the new ones.

If a spinning rod breaks down, there is no need to rush and order broken parts: knees, tip, reel seat. Some of the damage can be repaired on your own by making a DIY repair of the spinning rod.

In order to repair a spinning rod with your own hands, you must first of all prepare tools and materials:

sharp painting knife;
gas-burner;
lighter;
pliers;
small file;
sandpaper size 1000;
cloth for metal;
pieces of carbon fiber rod of various lengths and diameters for repairing the knee of a spinning rod, damaged or broken;
adhesives - waterproof PVA, epoxy, "Super-glue" gel, for fixing bandages, pass-through rings, handle repair;
waterproof transparent varnish;
nylon thread for fixing the installed pass rings on the blank, masking the place in which the spinning rod broke;
a set of access rings;
corks from bottles of wine or champagne.

Having prepared everything you need, you can repair both the broken last pass ring and the blank broken near the butt.In modern two-piece plug-in spinning rods made of high-modulus graphite such types of breakdowns occur as:

cracks or breakage of the first (butt) knee of the whip of the spinning rod;

cracked or broken upper knee.

Repair of the form in both cases does not require significant costs. It consists of the following steps:As a result of such repairs, the rod retains its strength, flexibility, slightly changes the action, but at the same time, it will avoid buying an expensive exclusive knee. For the money spent, for any ordinary spinning player, such a repair will cost a negligible amount

Repairing the tip of a spinning rod differs for a number of reasons from repairing a similar damage to the butt or second knee. Its inner diameter is either very small (it is extremely difficult to find a suitable insert), or the tip is solid (it does not have a cavity for a spigot repair connection). Any increase in the rigidity of the tip will lead to a change in its sensitivity, worsen the casting distance, and negatively affect the game of the bait.The insert installed in the tip breaks the thin walls from the inside under load, completely disabling this part of the rod.

Therefore, in order to eliminate this breakdown, you should resort to another more delicate method of repair:

With this method of repair, the place where the tip of the spinning rod broke is almost imperceptible, and the rod itself retains its strength, flexibility and other important properties.

Among all the materials used for the manufacture of the handle in the spinning rod, one of the most common is cork. Possessing many advantages (softness, a pleasant-to-touch surface, the ability not to solidify in cold weather), this material has one big drawback - with prolonged use, pits, cracks, chips form on it, leading to the destruction of the handle over time.

Grind the cork from the wine bottle on a fine grater to the state of fine shavings;
Mix the resulting shavings with PVA glue, fill all defects with the resulting composition;
After the glue has dried, we grind the surface with fine emery paper;

Instead of this composition, you can use a matching wood filler

We cut out the damaged piece, making a rectangular notch in the cork cover of the handle;
From the cork, which does not have internal cavities, we cut out a piece (insert) slightly larger than the recess in size;
Lubricate the recess and insert with waterproof PVA glue;
Press the insert under force into the recess, fix it with electrical tape;
After 12-14 hours, remove the electrical tape, cut off the part of the glued-in insert protruding above the surface of the handle with a sharp knife;
We clean the handle with fine sandpaper.

Often, the inner cermet liner breaks down in the guide ring. The repair process for such an element is very simple:

We buy a set of rings of different diameters with inner inserts of the same or better quality as on the rod;
We select a passage ring with a suitable diameter;
Using a sharp knife, carefully remove the inner cermet insert from its metal frame;
Remove the damaged insert from the frame with pliers, clean its inner surface with a small file;
We insert the new insert into the prepared frame of the pass ring, fix it by gluing it on both sides at the junction with the frame with super glue.

In case of a breakdown such as a cracked support leg or wire frame, it is better to replace the ring with a new one.

Replacing rings consists of the following simple manipulations:

It is better to start replacing the lower large ring, gradually moving towards the top;
In order to remove the ring, heat the place of its attachment to the form over the lighter until the varnish softens the fastening winding of a thin nylon thread;
With a sharp knife, cut the winding layer parallel to the plane of the blank;
Remove the winding and the ring;
We clean the place from the remains of varnish, winding, degrease;
Apply some epoxy glue;
We install a new ring, fix it tightly, winding a nylon thread over it with even turns;
Apply a layer of colorless waterproof varnish on top of the thread;
In order to remove the last ring - a tulip - a thin wire is hooked to it, it is heated over the flame of a candle, while trying to pull the ring off the top with a wire.

Among the most common coil malfunctions and how to fix them on your own, you can highlight:

Noise inside. Disassemble the spool, remove sand, dirt from the drive mechanism, check the bearings in the handle and spool, replace if necessary.

Jamming of the rotation mechanism under load. Replace the gears of the drive mechanism with new ones;

The bow of the line clicks spontaneously when casting. Tighten the shackle screws. If this does not fix the malfunction, change the spring, which is responsible for snapping the bow, to a more rigid one;

The backstop does not work. It is necessary to lubricate the overrunning clutch, which is responsible for the operation of the mechanism;

Creak.It is necessary to add grease to the inside of the coil body;

The line gets under the front clutch nut, breaks off. Change the thick felt gasket under the nut to a thinner plastic one.

These methods will allow you to effectively repair the coil with your own hands, eliminating serious problems, extending the life of this expensive component of the spinning tackle.

Every seasoned fisherman knows that fishing rods need to be treated as carefully as possible, and they are not intended to be pushed away from the shore, if fishing is from a boat, or for other, uncharacteristic tasks. However, sometimes situations still arise, after which you have to think about how to repair a broken spinning rod. The most common ones:

Sloppy carrying spinning rod in working order tip forward. This can lead to the fact that you accidentally "stick" it into a tree trunk or into the ground. In most cases, this leads to the need to repair the tip of the spinning rod.
Using lures that are too heavy, those that exceed the upper value of the rod test. In this case, with an amplitude casting, the spinning rod can simply break (fold).
There are often cases when the assembled spinning rod is placed on the ground and on them are coming, or lean against the car with the door open, and they are broken when it is slammed.
Accidental hit with blank on the side of a boat or the railing of a bridge may crack. High-tech and expensive spinning rods made of graphite materials are especially afraid of such shock loads.

It should always be remembered that fishing with a broken rod automatically turns into an ordinary rest by the water.

Of course, sometimes there are rod breakages in which they have to be thrown out, or given to a professional for masters - rodbildersspecializing in the repair and assembly of a wide variety of forms.

But more often, nevertheless, damage to the spinning rods occurs, which almost every fishing lover can fix. For instance:

Rod tip fracture.
Damage to the guiding rings and tulip.
Fracture of the form in the middle part (his knee).
Damage or deterioration of the handle.

Let's take a closer look at how you can repair a spinning rod with your own hands in these cases.

Very often you have to do the repair of a spinning rod with your own hands due to top breakage... This is a double nuisance, since the tulip is located here - the final passage ring, which takes on the main loads.

The tops, depending on the material and design of the rod, are hollow and monolithic. The method of its repair depends on this.

In this case, there is the ability to merge the top with the main part of the letterhead. This is done like this:

For installation inside and connection of both parts, it is necessary to select rod of suitable size... It should roughly match the bore's ID. It can be a resilient metal or carbon rod, a sewing needle, etc.
Both parts deburred and degreased.
Fitted insert and ends of the parts to be joined grease with epoxy glue.
Everything connect and let it dry.
In order to increase the reliability of the connection, the joint can be varnish... The color of the varnish for repairing a spinning rod can be any color, including colorless. The main thing is that it is of high quality, with good water resistance.

When repairing a spinning rod with hollow top, there is no need to rearrange the tulip, the main thing here is to place it in line with the rest of the rings.

In this case, there are two repair options:

try to connect both parts;
remove and rearrange the tip from the tip to the main body of the blank.

In the first case, you need to choose an elastic tube of appropriate diameter, into which both parts can be firmly inserted, and secure this connection with epoxy glue.

carefully heat the tulip base using a hair dryer or lighter;
remove it from a broken off tip;
with a file fit inside diameter the base of the tulip under the diameter of the remaining tip;
with epoxy glue make a connection tulip and tops;
for greater reliability, you can wrap the junction with strong thread and fill it with varnish or the same epoxy glue;
after the glue dries, we get, albeit a little shortened, but quite functional spinning rod.

All the described manipulations for repairing a broken tip will certainly slightly change the action and length of the repaired spinning rod, but they will keep it in service and give you the opportunity to go fishing with it more than once.

Spinning ring repair, to which the tops also belong, most often have to be done in connection with their failure and loss of functional qualities. In this case, do-it-yourself spinning repairs are best done at home, having prepared in advance. Before starting the repair, you need to: equip an appropriate workplace, purchase a new set of rings with a tulip, prepare glue and tools.

Repair of a spinning rod associated with the replacement of rings should be carried out in the following sequence:

Heating the base of the old rings, remove them from the rod.
The places on which the new rings will be attached are processed with fine sandpaper and degreased.
Using epoxy glue, secure the new rings tightly.
For a tighter fixation, we put a bandage on top and, after the glue hardens, cover the attachment point with varnish.

When replacing rings, it is very important to keep them in line. Alignment must be observed.

Breakage of one of the spinning knees, this is one of the most serious injuries... In this case, to replace it, it would be rational to find new inexpensive knee in a fishing store.

If this was not done, then you need to try to restore the knee. Repairing spinning rods in such cases is similar to repairing their tips:

If the knee is hollow, we select an elastic rod of the appropriate diameter to insert it inside the knee. If it is monolithic, then it is necessary to choose a suitable tube into which we will insert both parts of the broken element.
We clean both parts from burrs, damage and degrease them.
The connection is made using epoxy glue.
Let the glue dry and cover the element with varnish.

If hollow knee, when repairing a spinning rod with your own hands, at the junction of broken parts, you need to apply additional bandage - we apply several layers of nylon thread and cover it with the same glue. This will add extra strength to the joint.

Sometimes there are times when the form receives damage to its top layer or crack... Most often this is fixable. It is necessary to thoroughly clean the surface of the spinning rod with a thin sandpaper along the entire length of the damage, adding one more centimeter on each side, then cover this place with a thin layer of good waterproof glue and wrap it with a dense layer of nylon thread. After the glue has dried, cover the thread layer with the same glue and apply the second thread layer. You need to repeat this procedure three times. After that, apply a layer of varnish. Thus, you will get a fairly reliable tire, which will allow you to use the spinning rod more than once for its intended purpose.

Often, under the influence of external factors, they begin crumbling cork handles spinning rods.In order not to lose it completely, its repair should be started as soon as possible:

Several wine or champagne corks must be broken and rubbed into crumbs.
We mix this crumb with waterproof glue.
The resulting mass must be filled in all chips and irregularities formed on the handle.
After the handle is dry, it must be processed with a file and sandpaper.

The handle, restored in this way, will be able to perform its functions for a long time to come.

Find out from the video how to repair a spinning rod with your own hands if the tip of the spinning rod is broken:

The possibility of its further operation depends on how and how well you can repair the spinning rod with your own hands, or with the help of a specialist. A repair done carefully, without haste, using high-quality materials, although it will change the appearance of the rod and some of its characteristics, will return it to its previous performance.When the tackle is in order, it's time to start repairing them, since most anglers are able to do a lot on their own.Most often, the repair and maintenance of fishing tackle has to be done by residents of the provinces, where there are no specialized workshops where you can give your favorite spinning rod for replacement, for example, a guide ring.Very carefully (preferably with a magnifying glass) you need to inspect the inserts of the rings, especially if the accelerated wear of the cord or line occurs during fishing. A serious chipping is immediately noticeable, but often only a crack appears, which is difficult to see, and it spoils the line pretty much. This ring must be replaced. This work is not difficult, but it requires accuracy. Therefore, before starting it, it is worth practicing on a broken rod or a suitable tube.The old winding of the ring must be carefully removed by cutting the mounting thread, the remaining varnish must be heated with a stream of boiling water, and the installation site must be degreased with a solvent. To prevent the ring from shifting during the winding process, first it should be glued to the blank with hot melt glue, which makes it possible to precisely fit the ring in place and improves the connection of the ring foot and the blank.As a mounting thread for repairs, the usual nylon is quite suitable, which can be bought in any haberdashery department of the store. If you want to match the color of the thread to the color of the thread on the letterhead, then you should take into account that when impregnated with varnish it will turn out to be about half a tone darker than dry. Before winding the ring, you need to pull out the assembly thread. To do this, a piece of thread 2-3 m long, which is required for winding, should be stretched with a force equal to about half of the breaking load.From such an operation, the thread becomes denser and does not stretch when impregnated with varnish, maintaining the density of the winding. The most common mistake when changing a ring is pulling the assembly thread too tight. Sometimes this pushes the metal foot into the blank of the rod. It is in such a place that a breakdown occurs later. The normal thread tension when winding is about 100 g, and a large number of turns and subsequent varnishing give a very strong connection.Especially carefully you should wind the rings to the rod tip, the thin walls of which are very easy to push through. The finished winding must be trimmed with a thick sewing needle, and then varnished. You can fix the winding with any varnish, preferably two-component parquet. But nevertheless, the varnish cracks over time, so I recommend purchasing a special varnish for pouring the windings of the rings.For repairs, a 5-minute composition is required. It is especially convenient because the components are mixed in a 1: 1 ratio and it is difficult to make mistakes. Even with frequent use, it lasts for several years, so it makes sense to team up with friends and buy such a varnish for collective use.The varnish, in which a precipitate formed after a few years, completely restores its properties when heated in water to a temperature of 50-60 ° C.Even for a wide winding, no more than 2 ml of diluted varnish is needed, which is convenient to mix and apply to the winding with a homemade spatula in the form of a slotted screwdriver. If a higher quality of filling is required, then it is better to stir the varnish slowly, trying to prevent the formation of small air bubbles.The varnish remains fluid for about 5-7 minutes, depending on the air temperature; all this time, it is necessary to scroll the form around the axis so that the varnish does not drip to one side, and the resulting bubbles are pierced with a needle. After the varnish has set, it is better not to touch the form with your hands for about one to two hours, as an unwanted print may remain. The varnish gains its final strength in a couple of days. It is not recommended to pour a couple of windings at once, since even with good skills in working with resin, it is not possible to make a high-quality fill. If everything is done carefully and not in a hurry, then the winding of the rings will hardly differ from the factory one.Almost half of the problems with rods are the breakage of the tip in front of the "tulip" or the "tulip" itself. Replacing this ring is simple, it is more difficult to find a suitable "tulip". It is better to immediately purchase a high-quality one, for example Fugi. A fragment of an old "tulip" should be removed by heating on a lighter flame.If the tip breaks, then the place near it, about 1 cm, needs to be cleaned of varnish, and the butt end should be trimmed with a diamond file or sandpaper, which will prevent the appearance of cracks. The new "tulip" should fit over the blank with a slight gap. It is better to glue it with the same 5-minute compound. If desired, you can reproduce a decorative roll in front of the "tulip"; in this case, the mounting thread should be tightened very weakly - it does not have any functions, and it can cause breakage under strong tension.It should be borne in mind that after the forced shortening of the rod, its action becomes more rigid, however, the test does not change, therefore, an attempt to throw them heavier than indicated on the form often leads to breakages.The breakage of the reel-holder occurs much less often. If it turns or sits loosely, then the repair is simple. Drill a couple of holes with a diameter of 3-4 mm in the holder (be careful not to damage the blank!) And pour cyanoacrylate glue into them. But this job is rather dirty; Be careful not to glue the fingers and the screw nut of the holder together. It is much worse when the spool holder breaks from overload. Then it has to be replaced.Such work is very laborious and requires some skill. The easiest way to install the spool holder is through the top of the blank, but to do this, you will have to remove the largest guide ring. A new holder, as well as a piece of cork for the part of the handle above it, is now easy to purchase, or can be removed from an old rod.The broken reel seat is broken out and a place is cleared for a new one. For coaxial installation, a narrow masking tape is wound in the middle and near the end of the holder space. The reel seat is glued with the same 5-minute composition or the usual "epoxy".The cork part of the handle above the reel seat is roughly adjusted using a large file, then it is cleaned with sandpaper, starting with a coarse-grained one, and gradually transferred to medium-grain skins. Chipped pieces of cork and natural pores are putty with cork chips mixed with glue or "5-minute". Large chips are best corrected by cutting out a single piece of cork and adjusting it in place.Almost half of the problems with rods are the breakage of the tip in front of the "tulip" or the "tulip" itself. Replacing such a ring is simple, it is more difficult to find a suitable "tulip". Sometimes when fishing, the top knee of a spinning rod gradually comes off the bottom knee and starts to dangle. This situation is not only annoying, but also threatens with breakdown. This happens because the lead-in taper does not have sufficient roughness for reliable engagement.This is a "disease" of new rods, especially those with varnish on the lower knee joint. Such a nuisance is easy to fix. It is necessary to roll up a piece of sandpaper with a grain size of 800-1000 units with a tube and carefully, without removing a thick layer of varnish, process the joint surface on the lower knee with it, making it rougher.Most often it helps. Rarely, but still come across rods that do not have a tightly fitted cone of engagement, which is associated with a violation of the technological process. Such a rod, desperately knocking when shaken, must be discarded at the purchase stage.

Video (click to play).

1 - Required set of tools to replace the pass-through ring. 2 - Apply hot melt glue to the foot of the ring. 3 - Heat the hot melt glue over the flame of a lighter. 4 -Install the ring on the blank coaxially with the other rings. 5 - Hold the end of the assembly thread with your finger. 6-Secure the thread with a few turns. 7 - After sewing part of the wrapping, pull up the thread and align the wrapping with a thick needle. 8 - Cut the slow end of the thread with a sharp knife. 9 - Before reaching 5-10 mm to the end of the winding, thread a loop from the same thread and close the running end. 10 - When wrapping is complete, thread the yarn into the loop. 11 - And pull it out. 12 - Flush the mounting thread. 13 - Line up the winding with a thick needle. 14 - The wrapping of the pass-through ring is ready to be varnished.