Land Rover Discovery 1 DIY body repair

Details: Land Rover Discovery 1 DIY body repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.

Pushkin off-road club "Kaban 4x4"

Curly "May 31, 2011, 22:30

Curly »31 May 2011, 22:31

Curly »31 May 2011, 22:37

Curly »31 May 2011, 22:39

Curly »31 May 2011, 22:41

Curly "May 31, 2011, 22:42

Curly »31 May 2011, 22:44

Curly »31 May 2011, 22:48

Curly »31 May 2011, 22:51

After what they did to me, at first I decided to redo only the most problematic areas, but later in the process of repair I decided to redo everything.
What can I say, the experience of bodywork as such was not simply not necessary. When it was that there was no welding, when welding appeared, the machine was changed. Cooked racks, tables, and so on all sorts of nonsense. I reviewed the training films once again, read the sites, looked at the pictures of how people restore rarities what the seams should be and how to cook correctly. And he got down to work.

Unfortunately, the whole process was not photographed, mainly after the completion of the work.

I began to cut and cook from the right A-pillar as there were the largest holes.

Thank you. But this is only the beginning, still just ahead.

In the last picture, you can clearly see the two types of welding that I used. Round pimples are “spot” welding with a semiautomatic device. A hole is drilled and the upper and lower layers of metal are welded through it. Well, the seam is visible and so. It is difficult to weld a seam with a solid on thin metal and a large heating will lead to warping of the metal. Therefore, he cooked in essence with dots, pressed, made a point, released, then pulled the trigger again and released and so on the entire seam. The seam with such welding does not heat up, and until the next point the previous one has time to cool down. I cooked long seams in 5-6 cm pieces in different places until the seam is complete. If you look at the report where I painted, there I just mentioned the sealant. And cooking is not at all scary. I act on the principle that if someone succeeds, then I will succeed, the main thing is to get the maximum amount of information on this issue and practice a little 🙂

Video (click to play).

It turned out well for the first time!
One specialist recommended to me to call in metal with dots (having drilled holes in advance) and then cover it all up with a factory sealant (like plastic after drying out). Because continuous seams "pull", create heavy loads on the body. I haven't tried it myself yet. Scary a little :)))

Group: Club Member
Posts: 53
Registration: 1.1.2013
User #: 49 436

Machine brand:
DISCOVERY 1 Series 1990 to 1998

Good day to the forum I am writing for the first time if something goes wrong, sorry firstly, I congratulate everyone on the past holidays, I wish you all good luck. Secondly, on the topic, at the beginning of autumn, I bought it for my soul. Disco 1 experience on this car was in the 90s, therefore, having determined the amount which I was ready to spend on a “toy” of all real crooks, I stopped at Disko1. The car is not new, but I liked the fact that there were two owners and the car did not "collective farm" and on the machine. In general, I bought and was not disappointed with mushrooms on a fishing trip, the "rogue" is good and before the New Year I set it to boil to strengthen it; I do not make a country of advice cars for a trophy, but in order to move on the asphalt to the dacha, and there it is already in the forest and in the field, etc. There is something to dash around the city in traffic jams. In general, something like this in the photo, the right side is already ready. If advice questions opinions are always ready, write my mail. Thanks in advance to everyone who supports it.

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ORM

Registration date: 12 Aug 2009

2638 posts

Auto: Disco 1
Name: SERGEI
Gender: Male
The city of Odessa

Administrator

1st Registration: 08 Jan 2005

12,493 posts

Auto: FJ TT-SE, K-5
Name: Vetal
Gender: Male
City: The third planet from the sun ..

Tell me about the rubber. I would like to raise the car. Now there are bald 235/75/16. I plan either: 235/85/16, or 255/85/16 KM-2. In the first case, there is a new KM-1 spare wheel. How long does Goodrich KM-2 run on 80% of the runs?
Is 235 wide enough? (Planned for use in the mountains and on the sand). Thanks in advance.

Yes, they run for a long time, Goodrich is glass, but 235 is a universal manufacturer's size for all coatings, although Disco looks like a premature freak on them, put more size in width, like Roma's. And 255 / 85R16, on the contrary, will be large, it will be necessary to cut the arches, and secondly, the thrust will really be lacking for such a diameter. On the disco gears in speed, on the def at the moment, so on the def you do not feel this size, but on the disco it will be a little tight on the slopes, in the sand, and in the mud too.
By the way, I advise everyone who has Disco and Ranges to immediately cut the rear fender ala "CAMEL-Tropfy" - this is their idea! Otherwise, sooner or later, you will all the same bend when leaving, below I post a photo as an example, we did it at Disco-II

ORM

Registration Date: 2009 Nov 22

1,887 posts

Auto: LR Disco 1, TypeS
Name: Roma
Gender: Male
City: Kiev

Very worthy! Now pictures in "10 differences" with a detailed description of what has been done and the budget!

Tuning
1.Power kit:
-Front bumper + Komap 9.5 (Kevlar 30m)
-Rear bumper + towbar + Komap 9.5 (Kevlar 30m)
-Thresholds
-Protection of the front fenders
-Expedited trunk
2.Rear wicket slider.
3.Protection (8mm)
-Steering rods
-KPP
-RK
-Fuel tank
4.Ladder to the back. Door.
5. Organizer in the trunk + berths.
6.Compressors:
-ARB for block.
-VIAR 450 + receiver
7.Air signal.
8.Tablet on the back door (very convenient thing)

Well, I kind of wrote the most basic thing. You understand little things, I will not write. But there are enough of them too 
in the end what happened

DSCN0957.jpg 89.27K 419 Number of downloads:

The last model of Land Rover Discovery 1 rolled off the assembly line in 1998. The very fact that the car was able to exist on the domestic market for so long and interest in it does not subside, says that its reliability is not far-fetched.

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BRITISH ADVENTURES IN RUSSIA

BRIEF INTRODUCTION TO ELECTROCHEMISTRY

The first thing that catches your eye when we talk about the operational characteristics of this car is the low corrosion resistance of the body. This is aggravated by the fact that many owners sincerely believed that since aluminum does not rust, then anti-corrosion treatment of cars should not be dealt with. In fact, only the body panels are made of "winged metal" and are fixed to a stamped steel frame. Places where aluminum is rolled onto steel cannot but suffer from electrochemical corrosion. It is necessary to change the corroded parts entirely or rivet sheets of aluminum corrugated board on the affected places. There are no other options to defeat this disease. In any case, the bodies of the "urban" cars that have been in operation in Russia since the mid-90s are usually in a deplorable state, and those who have spent their life on the periphery and did not know what a "salty winter" is, with the safety of the body fine.

So, under the hoods of Discovery can stand petrol V8 volumes of 3.5 and 3.9 liters or turbocharged diesel engines TDI 200 and TDI300. Gasoline engines do not deliver any particular troubles to their owners. They are extremely reliable, but, to be honest, very gluttonous. With age, they begin to slowly drive oil from wherever they can. As a result, the picture looks like this: the engine is sweating with oil, and the owner refills it little by little and drives, drives, drives ...

The diesel of the 200 series, which stood until the 95th year, is an unpretentious workhorse. The only problem is that the interior of cars equipped with this engine is cool. But you can fight this phenomenon. The temperature of a running diesel engine cannot drop below 60 degrees. Set the fan to a minimum and direct the flow only to the legs and to the windshield, then enough warm air will flow into the cabin. As for the TDI 300 diesel engine, it has only one disease: if you miss the moment of changing the timing belt, the belt breaks (however, without catastrophic consequences). And when buying a diesel Land Rover Discovery of 95th year and younger, it is imperative to change the roller-tensioner of a single long belt and the belt itself. It will cost you $ 250, but it will save you a lot of trouble. By the way, the TDI 200 had three belts, two of which are interchangeable. This made it possible in a critical situation to rearrange the belts and still get to civilization. It costs $ 150 to replace all three belts. And the owners are really happy with the fact that Land Rover diesels have very few problems with winter starting and bad diesel fuel.

So much has been said and written about the problem of leaks in the steering gear of Land Rover cars, which has become the talk of the town, and I don’t want to discuss it. But you have to.The fact is that sorting out the gearbox and changing the oil seals is a rather stupid event. A special mandrel is required to replace the PTFE rings. And neither the official dealers, nor, even more so, the unofficial ones have it (without a mandrel, when inserted, PTFE rings are tightly sealed). In general, after six months, the reducer starts to leak again, although you spent $ 350. A radical solution to the issue is to replace the gearbox ($ 1090).

SUSPENSION, TRANSMISSION, UNDERWAY

The LT77 transmission initially did not perform well. She often had the second gear out of order (repairs - $ 583, spare parts - $ 300) and broke the splined joint of the shaft entering the RK. At one time, Land Rover carried out an action to replace the 77th box with the 380th for only $ 1000, and many took advantage of this opportunity. With the R380, almost all problems have been removed. True, sometimes when starting from a place (especially for cars with a gasoline engine) the primary shaft was cut off, but this was simply due to the inability to move smoothly. Losers will have to fork out $ 617.

The first Discovery also had a lot of questions about the driveshaft crosspieces. Due to the fact that the center differential lock could be engaged at any speed, increased clearances were provided in all gearboxes, which became the reason for the famous "knock-knock" when starting off. Land Rover's time menu has never had such an operation as "replacing the crosspiece", but there was a "propeller shaft bulkhead". Two crosses were changed at once, and if necessary, then part of the cardan or the entire shaft assembly. But with us it is always like this: "we will change this, and the second is still similar." And then one crosspiece changes, and the remaining one immediately begins to break a new one. Now the crosspieces cost $ 25-30 (and non-original parts for $ 18), the propeller shaft itself is $ 180, and a complete repair is $ 400-500. And yet it is worth taking a closer look at the experience of the British, who, for all their stinginess, never change one crosspiece, one ball joint, one shock absorber and one spring. By the way, the latter are supplied only as a set, because the right and left springs have different heights!

As for the bridges, on almost all old cars, the knuckle balls are rusted, covered with shells and need to be replaced ($ 130 + $ 35 work). In this case, you will have to change the hub bearings ($ 20). The CV joints run for a very long time, and they fail when the CV joints forget to regularly change the lubricant.

FEATURES OF NATIONAL OPERATION

When the first Discovery began to appear in Russia, the most common malfunctions were bent steering rods and dead shock absorbers. The fact is that in the LR instructions it is written unambiguously - drove off the asphalt - turned on the lowered one. And if you race off-road, the shock absorbers quickly overheat, which leads to failure of the rubber seals of the bypass valves. Replacing the original shock absorbers costs $ 380-390 with work. With proper operation, shock absorbers and silent blocks go 120 thousand each, the ball joint of the A-shaped arm - 150 thousand, and the clutch disc 200!

Roughly the same thing happened when the 95th model year Discovery appeared in Russia. They instantly started having problems with the anti-roll bar struts. And again, this problem is peculiar only to Russia, because on these, already more "road" cars, they tried to drive off-road with good speed. And because of this, not only the stabilizer struts fly ($ 550 for a set with work), but also the steering tips ($ 317), as well as all the same shock absorbers. It is worth noting that the suspension elements on the right side suffer more often (sand and other abrasive flies onto it from the side of the road).

ELECTRICITY THING IS SIMPLE

In the 95th year, electronics appeared on the Land Rover Discovery. And with her problems immediately began, primarily with ABS. And now we will again have to return to the national characteristics of exploitation. As soon as you start off-road driving in high gear, the hub bearings become loose.Adjusting them is a rather expensive operation, but if you neglect it, it starts knocking out the ABS sensors. And one sensor costs about $ 400, plus $ 100 for work. And then, again, it is required to adjust the bearings of all four wheels. And one more thing: there are two sensors at the back, but there is only one connector. Accordingly, if a malfunction of the rear sensor is detected, you need to change it twice, and this is already $ 800. Electronics until 98 was generally not very reliable.

Another LR D1 was purchased in July 2008. Auto 1997 Guards 2.5TDI on the handle. There is absolutely no “extra” electrics in the car, only electric windows and mirrors. During the year, Discovery managed to visit Seliger and Onega several times and in total ran a little less than 40,000 km. I will say right away that I have never failed. They didn’t drive him along the cruel off-road, to a large extent you drive on the asphalt, then a little through the bushes and admire the landscape. I sat on it only once, in the snow on bridges in winter, when I could not even open the door because of the snow. 113 hp in the city allow more or less to stay in the stream, there is not enough on the highway, but the city / highway consumption is 10/8 liters. So, what did they do in a year. We changed the timing and rollers 10000r. all completely, all the pads and front suporta (used support) 11000r., pierced the box fork 10500r. (original fork), I changed the front crosspiece at the distributor twice 2000 + 1000 (changed it myself the second time), I don’t remember changing the cost of the oil seal myself. Also every 7000 km I changed the oil and all filters, a set of filters 1100r. pour oil Esso 10/40 700r 4 liters, you need about 7 liters. Now they are making a rear gearbox and a tailgate, I will write about the cost as they will invoice.

What can I say. Sometimes touching a “legend” is not pleasant. In the future, it either passes or you are not worthy of the "legend"

p.s. Freelander 1, not the best model for this brand.

In short, I don’t know. The overall impression is negative. And the further, the worse.
Lack of service. Absence in principle. That is, what are we talking about if the mechanics at Vyborgskaya know the mechanics at Dvinskaya? You see, Mikhalych, he also knows about you. Everyone who is seriously involved in rovers - everyone knows each other. And such services are on the fingers of one hand. And this is in the city of five million. And what, then, behind the radius of the ring road?
Spare parts. It turned out to be completely unprepared for such a price level. Not everything is in stock, you can only order something and then wait a long time and patiently. And most importantly, I cannot understand why exactly. Why is this all? Well, there must be something fun in return!
I don't see it yet. I'll go and take a look. Maybe I don't understand something.

I wonder what the story would be like if Friel was replaced by Def.
Don't get into the ashtray, smoke a pipe or don't smoke at all.
Poor interior, so it's the same Landrover.
The engine, in my opinion, is the best of the line of motors for Friel.
Poor handling and a large turning radius, and what to want from a heavy four-wheel drive vehicle.
In addition, if you got a funky car from under the driver, which served the car to a minimum and simply hammered all her complaints, then what can you expect from him?

What did I want to say? You cannot evaluate the car only with oohs and ahs, splashes of joy and delight. There are also downsides. And very serious disadvantages, by the way. Before making a purchase, I climbed all the LR forums. People piss on their knees with boiling water, but no one will write about how things really are.
I probably would not buy Friel if I met a couple of adequate responses. And you wouldn't be reading all this now. Understand?

As for the availability of service, the availability of spare parts or the cost of repairs, I don't even know what to comment on here. Natasha, you’re wrong, I’ll answer you that way. At least in terms of service.

Let me also join your heated discussion 🙂 and put in my word from the owner of LR Discovery I.
By the way, I also think: what does Def have to do with it? - Probably the same as Freelander in the topic “My Land Rover Discovery 1”. ))

Good question: why do LR lovers choose this brand? Why do I personally like her?

1. LR is not at all budgetary, even if you minimize costs by searching for relatively cheap parts, reducing possible breakdowns through regular and complete maintenance and using your own skillful hands when you can do without servicemen. For some details, pricing is generally incomprehensible. Once upon a time at our Disco at a breakneck speed, a washer fluid flowed out of the tank, and bypassing the system and glass, of course, - immediately to the ground. Okay, the old one is leaking, so we change to a new one? No. They found out the price - grunted - with the help of familiar servicemen and volatile words, they removed the old one (there is such a cunning mount, especially for enemies), replaced the gasket at the pump attachment point, glued it down - put it in place. Is free. The new tank cost 5 with a tail of tyrs. The original muffler with a pipe - a long fool by 2 meters made of rather thick metal - cost only 1,500 more then. A non-original muffler was even cheaper, although it was made of metal much thinner. Well, in general, if you bypass the dealers as much as possible and put your head and hands, then it does not come out as expensive as many people imagine. But also not cheap.

2. Comfort? Minimum. But I don’t need much.
- the most important thing is that the driver's seat is very comfortable, however, this is also a matter of taste. BMW is famous for its convenience for the driver, but neither in the X3 nor in the X1 I felt completely free, I could not attach my left arm at all .. often indicate the lack of a platform for resting the left leg of the LR, but I am still on the 24th Volga I'm used to putting it on the floor, it's even better for me;
- good visibility, with the exception of the classic dastardly dead zone on the right behind, which, after the lift, also spread to the area immediately behind;
- it is not necessary to dodge most of the pits, since some of the pits are simply not noticed, and the rest, within reason, the suspension tolerates, - and this is also comfort, the driver's energy consumption is greatly saved, especially on long trips;
- in winter, the interior heats up for a long time, but this is the trouble of many diesel cars .. Webasto plans;
- even before cigarettes ceased to be indispensable inhabitants of my pockets, smoking in the car was bad manners, so I can't say anything about the ashtray, except for its small volume - very few pounds fit in there, damn it;

3. Breaking strength. There are sayings that the Land Rover is a bucket on wheels, and if there is no puddle under it in the morning, then there is nothing to leak out. My opinion is an exaggeration. It breaks down no more than other SUVs of the same age according to the mode of operation. Not so little has changed in our car, but we have already taken a ten-year-old car. What has been changed has never broken yet. The most costly expense item we will have is the fight against body corrosion, this is a really weak point in Disco. Now in the process. And I can say for sure that it is possible to ensure that what should not flow out from under the LR does not flow out. What else? The power steering pump failed, I went like this for a week, thanks to the Volga for the science to steer correctly :). The radiator of a stove somewhere near Yaroslavl was completely leaky, the whole interior was spattered with a suspension from a chiller .. well, occasionally they poured water and drove with the windows ajar, nothing. Once the front shock absorber mounting bracket vomited out due to old age, rust, we drove like that for a couple of days until they realized what was the matter. The main thing is that in case of breakdowns, he never stood up tightly, always got to the house ourselves.

4. Maneuverability. The turning radius is too big, yes. Parking is not very convenient, but it is compensated by the ability to drive in / out of the curb with a wheel while parking. And on the road it is quite nimble, squeezes into even the smallest holes without difficulty. Sailability interferes in strong winds, it is.On the other hand, the passengers in the back are very comfortable, even if they are tall, like on a bus.

5. The engine is lovely, 300 TDI, loves a smooth, measured ride without fuss and fuss - just what the doctor ordered. As soon as you drive off the asphalt, turn on a low gear range - not a car, a mere tractor!

6. We didn't choose LR on purpose. We just thought to buy a car for trips to the forest-fields, for a long time, and in these conditions, reliable, simple, with a minimum of electronics, passable. It was he who chose us as the owner, it just so happened, and we are very happy about that.

Land Rover Discovery 3 Malfunctions

The main difference between the "third" Disco is the abundance of electronics: what is the price of one Terrain Response system, which allows using the joystick to select one of five complex modes of operation of the engine, suspension, transmission and brakes. But it is electronics that is the main cause of troubles!

At first, the owners of Disco III were pestered by "raw software" - anything could be buggy, and new firmware versions had to be "poured" almost more often than oil into the engine. The programs were more or less debugged, but Discovery's "local network" still periodically "hangs", although in most cases it is a well-established procedure that saves you - power off and reboot.

With age, headaches and communication with electricians are added by a chronic "contact illness" - inside the insulation the wiring itself rots (the cost of the harnesses, by the way, is up to 2000 euros), the connectors "turn green". And okay, if because of this only a deafened sound signal or turn signals, instrument lighting and door lock drives spontaneously revived. No - the first and main victim is the Terrain Response system. For example, a seemingly insignificant loss of communication with the ABS sensor is capable of "knocking out" the speedometer, lighting up a full "iconostasis" of signal lamps on the dashboard and lowering the air suspension to the middle position!

90% of all Disco IIIs are equipped with pneumatic elements instead of springs, and they can throw up a lot of problems. If the machine is flat, prepare 1250 euros to replace the reciprocating compressor. By the way, on the off-road, do not forget that it is located at the left rear wheel and is very vulnerable (it makes sense to put optional protection), and at the tire shop warn that the compressor casing is not mistaken for a platform for the jack - in this case, the inevitable replacement of the broken aluminum mounting bracket will cost 300 euros.

If Disco suddenly falls on one side, the reason lies in one of the four wheel suspension position sensors (€ 100 each) or in the leakage of the air bellows (€ 500), which are covered with metal covers from dirt: they rarely wipe through and through, as before, and the performance more often they lose due to age-related microcracks in the rubber casing after five to six years of service or 100-130 thousand kilometers. With the same mileage, it’s time to change the shock absorbers of a conventional spring suspension (250 euros for the front and 350 euros for the rear), and wheel bearings may be asked to retire much earlier (the front ones, together with the steering knuckles, cost 200 euros, and the rear ones separately - 80 Euro).

On cars older than 2008, the bulkhead of the front suspension lumbering on irregularities before 40 thousand kilometers is a common thing. Reinforced ball joints (50 euros), silent blocks of levers (12-15 euros each) and steering tips can withstand at least 50-60 thousand kilometers and change separately.

Often a rack and pinion steering mechanism gives a reason for visiting a service. A slight backlash after 60,000 kilometers is better to immediately eliminate by adjusting - a new "rail" instead of a broken one will cost 1000 euros. A knock on the cardan joint of the steering shaft does not require urgent intervention, but if you get tired of it, you will have to change the shaft (150 euros).

Do not be surprised, but a failure of the optional rear differential E-Diff locking is usually indicated by a warning about a malfunction of the out of adjustment and "shrunk" air suspension.The culprit is a poorly protected from dirt and "sour" electric motor of the blocking drive, and Discovery, who has seen off-road terrain and did not know any problems with it, is a rare phenomenon. Cleaning revives the motors for a short time, but they are changed under warranty (at its own expense - 900 euros for a new one and 550 euros for a refurbished one at the factory). And keep in mind that the same symptoms appear when the transfer case control unit is "dead". It is located in the engine compartment behind the battery and is afraid of water - wash the engine with extreme care. By the way, the electric drive is also in charge of switching between the lower and upper rows of the "hand-out", but it is located more successfully and is much more tolerant of mud baths.