It is not difficult to diagnose faults in the filler valve of an LG washing machine on your own, and it will not be difficult to repair this module with your own hands, if you act methodically, according to a pre-planned plan. Dismantling and replacing the filler valve with your own hands is carried out in the following order.
Note! Before placing the clipper on its side, remove the powder cuvette as directed by the user manual, as water remaining in the cuvette may spill onto the control box and damage the electronics.
Once the drain pump has been removed, it is best to have it checked and repaired by a specialist. Only he can finally say whether the pump has really come to an end, if so, then you need to buy and install a new one. Assembly is carried out upside-down. The easiest way is to change the pressure switch (water level sensor) of the washing machine. If you manage to disassemble it correctly, then it will not be difficult to replace it yourself.
Bearing failures are a matter of time or a factory defect.The user can influence this process only by the intensity of the use of the home assistant. Bearing malfunctions must be repaired immediately, because if this is not done, the loose pulley can damage the tank and then repairs will be very expensive. In this case, the user manual will not help; you either need to contact a specialist or study specialized information.
Bearing repairs must be done very carefully, using a special hammer with a bronze bump and a thin metal rod. It is necessary to pull out the bearing by striking its opposite edges. First, we place the rod on one edge of the bearing and strike it lightly with a hammer, then transfer the rod to the other edge and again strike it lightly. The procedure must be repeated until the old bearing pops out, then a new bearing can be put in its place.
In conclusion, we note that malfunctions of any module of the LG washing machine, you can try to fix it. Of course, even if you study the relevant technical information and expert advice, successful repairs are not guaranteed, but it is definitely worth trying, especially since in most cases you have to deal with typical breakdowns. If something doesn't work, you can read the washing machine repair manual.
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Drum cleaning is a function specially designed to keep the tank and drum of the machine clean. It allows you to remove insoluble particles (sand, fabric fibers, etc.) that settle on the surface of the plastic tub and drum after washing. Regular use of p.
Cause The drum of the washing machine rotates 360 degrees. The inside bumper raises and lowers the garment for a complete wash. This means that the appliance may make noise if buttons on clothing or the lightning strike the drum. Basically, noise occurs when foreign materials (coins,.
For all modern models of LG washing machines, the “Drum cleaning” mode is provided, this mode is necessary for cleaning the internal parts of the machine: tank, drum, rubber pipes. LG does not recommend special detergents for cleaning the machine, all detergents used.
The car broke down. The bearing rattled. Rather, at first there was a creak, rather sharply intensifying with each subsequent wash. For five washes (four weeks), there was already a rumble and squeal on the spin, which I wanted to get rid of. As the passport says - one year warranty, seven years' service life. Four months to seven was not enough.
After shaking the drum, looking under the car, checking for leaks, I came to the conclusion that despite the absence of visible defects (drum play, lack of water on the floor and nearby, chips), the point is in the bearings, or rather in the bearing that is closer to the drum.
I went online for prices for replacing bearings and oil seal. It turned out that this operation is one of the most difficult and expensive. Complete disassembly of the machine is required, starting with the engine. Prices were bent over sickly firms with a six-month guarantee for the work done. As my wife said, “it’s better to add half the amount and buy a new one”.I started looking for “Uncle Vasya”. Many refused to repair when they found out about the direct drive. Those who agreed to renovations did not want to come on Saturday or Sunday. Of the three who agreed, I chose one with a lower price, i.e. from only 4.5 sput.
Friends at work urged: "Uncle will come with a sledgehammer and straighten the bearings!" I didn’t believe it! ! ! I called. - "What kind of bearing puller do you have?" - “Why a puller, there is a drift. Each owner must have his own hammer ”Yes-ah-ah. And this is without a guarantee, that is, only under the word of a completely unfamiliar person. You can't drag his note to court. I washed myself.
I called two postponed ones. The effect is exactly the same. Moreover - “We have been repairing SO all our lives and we don’t sit without work”. - *** It's not a pity to knock on someone else's washing machine with a hammer. ((((*** Therefore, they do not sit without work with such an attitude. IMHO. I change bearings on a car only with a puller, but there is iron all around. On a washing machine, the tank is plastic with a fused thin-walled glass) (2mm at the bearing). I decided to do it myself, fortunately my wife said - “4.5tyr and even the same amount, and we’ll buy a new one if that.”
There was experience in car repair.
"Vyatka-automaton" as a designer sorted out.
He scattered the car (cover, rear, front with a hatch, after removing the seal from the hatch), removed the engine rotor.
Disconnected the wires of the TEN and the stator of the motor (carefully, the latches on the connectors).
I put the rotor in place without tightly tightening the bolt to preserve the stator when pulling out the drum. Disconnected the control panel wires.
Disconnected the rubber and shock absorbers. He removed the tank from the springs, shock absorbers and pulled it out.
He unscrewed the self-tapping screws of the tank connector, cut it in half. He removed the motor rotor again, pulled the drum out of the bearings.
Exactly! Small bearing (from motor) OK! The bearing from the tank soured, which did not rotate by hand. I dug out the oil seal, it was ground down to a radius of 1mm in the sealing collar.
Water got into the bearing (despite being closed) and it rusted. There was also corrosion on the shaft. I decided to put the bearings with a polyurethane seal (closure), instead of the standard ones with a metal closure.
I ordered pullers from a turner, bought bolts in auto parts.
After installing the thrust bearing in the small bearing, he lowered the bolt with a stop inside the glass, fitted the two halves of the top on the stop and carefully pressed the top against the upper (large) bearing. When tightening the bolt, the puller began to expand the bearings and the small one could not stand it, moved with a bang and began to get out of bed.
Then, already to the large bearing, I fitted a puller (stop and top), a bolt through the shoulders of the supports on the glass (d66mm, height 20mm, wall thickness 1.5mm), put instead of the oil seal. After a little resistance, the bearing gave up.
You can buy original bearings in shops for repairing washing machines (and refrigerators?) (200-300 rubles). Original with metal closure. I preferred conventional bearings in stores. closed with polyurethane on both sides. The oil seal was found only in a washing machine specialized in repair for 250 rubles.
After cleaning the bearing beds and rinsing the tank, he heated the glass under the bearings with a hairdryer (
up to 50-60g.), inserted the bearings into place with a puller in two steps. I lubricated the stuffing box spring with litholom24, not abundantly. It is also recommended to lubricate the shaft with lithol, but it became a pity for the linen. I inserted the oil seal, greased the shaft with soapy paste, put the drum and rotor in place, tightened the bolt.
The gum of the seal between the halves of the tank was deformed, so he took it out, cleaned it and the groove, smeared the gum with silicone sealant (a little), and put it in place. !! If the sealing rubber band is not a ring (split), then the connection point must be at the top of the tank! Stretch evenly to reduce the gap between the ends. Put the other half more carefully, be more careful with the TEN.
Tighten the self-tapping screws of the tank halves in two steps through the bolt. The tank can be replaced. The assembly is easier, after checking the wires, connectors, fasteners, I close the machine with metal and drag it to check.
The flight is normal. After a slight creak of the oil seal, which quickly passes after the first wash with abundant powder, the machine starts to work as before.Two lightweight washes to try. So far so good.
I confidently earned money for cognac! ;-R)))
ZY Catch three links, I hope they will help you, as they helped me:
З.З.Ы. Almost nine months (06/06/11), no complaints, my wife drives about four times a week ..
Visits to the LG repair page are growing, letters with questions have appeared, the counter has been posted for control ..))
Interesting example from Anna ()
With permission, I provide excerpts and photos.
(Anna) I am interested in the question of how to remove the rotor, because the nut that holds it cannot be unscrewed in any way. And how to keep the rotor stationary so that you can try to unscrew it harder? The car is only 2 years old, it began to make noise like an airplane.
(Answer) The nut is screwed into the drum shaft. Accordingly, it is necessary to hold not the rotor, but the drum. And since the drum is large in diameter, it is easy to hold. PS: My rotor came off easily, but in case of difficulty it is better to use a puller ..
(Anna) Is the thread right or left? Or maybe we are twisting the wrong way))) But still, even holding the drum, the nut does not want to go out in any way
(Answer) Standard - right! If the thread is left-handed, then there should be a risk on the faces (edges of the faces) of the bolts and nuts! A spanner key (asterisk) is taken, its length is about 29-25 cm and it is convenient to press with the palm of your hand on the end of the key. The assistant holds the drum (is the front panel removed?), The second person presses the key counterclockwise.
(Anna) Just don’t tell me how you disassembled this structure, if it doesn’t bother you, otherwise we are inexperienced :) But since we started, we would like to see it through to the end.
(Answer) Now about removing the drum from the bearings. By the way - was the thread right? Screw the bolt through a washer (sleeve) of a suitable diameter (without backlash) until it stops. Turn the structure with the bolt up (the drum is at the bottom). Spray the VD-shkoy shaft and bearing, hold for 20 minutes (if the VD-scale has evaporated - repeat) The assistant holds the tank on his knees and hands (4 points), through a copper or aluminum (not duralumin!) Spacer, light short ones are applied with a hammer (do not overdo it) blows to the bolt head along its axis. The axis should move. Continue until you win! Do not remember the bolt and thread! At the very end, you may need to loosen the bolt. Somewhere like that
(Anna) It worked! They opened the structure and this is what they found (see photo 1). The bearings are intact. And I indicate the source of our noise with red arrows in other photos. These parts rubbed against each other. We will replace the gasket (or whatever it is called), try to assemble the car)). The thread was right-hand. Use any photos for health.
(Answer) Yes, your oil seal was badly beaten. Apparently scale is hard water. Are the bearings exactly intact? Without jamming, backlash, noise? Otherwise, it will soon repeat .. ((Be careful when assembling with an oil seal and heating element.
code when turning on CL, which does not clear when turned off and no button works. even on-off button
Just forgot to turn off .. "CHILD PROTECTION MODE"
You need to press two buttons for 4-5 seconds
This mode does not disappear by itself even when the machine is turned off for a long time .. ((
The repairs made are not only far from my profession, but are also the only ones on this machine.
Before this one of the washing machines I had only repaired Vyatka, though not once ”;-D)), until I replaced almost all the insides ..> 8-D))
Although I have a technical education, I am familiar with electrical engineering and plumbing work, I still do not know how to identify faults by a very short description, detailed photographs are desirable
Accordingly, I am not engaged in the distribution of spare parts and their search.
Within reasonable limits, given the free time, I will try to answer all the questions, of course, that is in my power.
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Any home appliance is prone to malfunctions for one reason or another. And washing machines are no exception.
The most common breakdowns of automatic washing machines (AFM) include:
Failure of the drum to rotate;
Stopping the discharge of waste, dirty water from the tank;
Increase in time for the standard wash cycle;
Failure of the heating element of the unit;
The machine refuses to draw water;
The drum of the washing machine rattles when rotating, emits extraneous noises and rattles.
In our article, we will analyze the repair of two devices that are directly related to the above malfunctions. Namely: we will tell you about the repair of the pump of the LG washing machine with our own hands and how to replace the bearing in the AFM LG F1068LD and F1022NDR.
Despite the fact that modern machines for washing dirty things are equipped with all kinds of electronics as much as possible, according to average statistics, most of the malfunctions (more than 75 percent) of these devices are in the mechanical units and parts. To be honest to the end, let's say that according to the information of all the same statistics, the main fault for the untimely (before the expiration of the warranty period) failure of the automatic machine lies with their users and is explained by the improper operation of this device.
A sure sign that the bearing of the washing machine needs to be replaced is the appearance of a grinding noise and similar noises when the AFM is operating at high speeds in the spinning or washing mode.
The process of replacing a bearing device cannot be called technically difficult, but the fact that this occupation is quite troublesome and time-consuming is for sure. Before proceeding with the repair of malfunctions (bearing) of the LG washing machine with your own hands, you should, based on the model of the machine, purchase it. Bearings 6205 ZZ and 6206 ZZ are designed for LG F1068LD and F1022NDR machines.
Materials and tools needed to repair (replace) bearings:
WD-40 grease;
Sealant, can be automobile;
A set of screwdrivers with ends of different shapes;
Pliers;
Hammer;
A set of open-end wrenches and caps;
Adjustable wrench;
Metal pin about 35 centimeters long.
The essence of the preliminary disassembly of an automatic washing machine of the LG brand is to sequentially remove it:
top cover and upper dashboard - both parts are held in place with self-tapping screws;
bottom front panel - fastened with latches.
After completing the above operations, you will provide yourself with free (relatively) access to the tank of the device.
We release the AFM drum from the connected devices in the following sequence:
We disconnect all the electric wires of the electric heating element (TEN), the filling pump and the electric motor.
A branch pipe designed to drain the liquid.
Branch pipe with water level sensor.
Upper and lower drum counterweights.
Dismantling the tank and replacing the bearing
We divide the washing machine tank into two component parts, thereby gaining access to its drive pulley and the fastening that holds it.
We release the screw that secures the pulley.
We remove the pulley, while inserting the bolt back.
Putting a metal pin (hairpin) to the head of the bolt, knock out the shaft with the adapter sleeve with light blows on it with a hammer.
After extraction, we inspect for external mechanical damage.
We scroll the shaft on the bearing.
If vibration (backlash) is detected, we change the bearings and ASM oil seals.
We knock out the oil seal from the hole in the back of the drum (in the middle).
We carry out the same actions in relation to the bearing.
We clean the hole from old grease and debris particles that got there during repair work.
We press the new bearings into place (without lubricating).
Lubricate and install the shaft seals.
We collect all the parts and elements of the automatic washing machine in the reverse order of disassembly with the implementation of all technological connections.
We launch the AFM in test mode.
If the previously present faults do not manifest themselves, the work can be considered successfully completed.
Work on the repair or complete replacement of the ACM drain pump is not so laborious in terms of disassembling the body of an automatic washing machine and boils down to the following steps:
Twisting and removing the back of the device.
Drain pump detection. It is located in the lower corner of the instrument case.
Freeing the pump from the elements connected to it.
Removing the snail of a paddlewheel washing machine.
Checking the impeller and the casing for deformation changes, as a result of which, due to the adhesion of the impeller blades with the protective casing, the pump cannot function in normal operating mode.
After checking and detecting damage to the housing (casing), the blades of the impeller are trimmed with a knife by one millimeter (quite a sufficient size for the pump to resume normal operation).
Installation of elements and parts of the drain pump of an automatic washing machine in the reverse (from parsing) order.
If the reason for the failure of the drain pump was not its impeller, but pump wear, then it should be replaced with a new device, for the reason that repairing a worn-out pump is impractical and cannot ensure further uninterrupted operation of the LG washing machine.
At the end of any type of work (repair / replacement), a test wash is carried out.
Do-it-yourself LG washing machine repair on video.
To repair a LG washing machine with your own hands, you need to know well the design features of the washing machine and its main faults that occur most often.
From time to time, many have a situation when the washing machine stops working normally. Modern units, including LG, have no problems with diagnostics and error detection. The fact is that the screen-display shows codes, each of which corresponds to a particular malfunction. LG washing machines have their own coding, deciphered in the attached technical documentation. It also provides practical advice on how to eliminate the resulting breakdowns.
Explanation of the main fault codes for LG washing machines:
Many problems that arise with LG washing machines can be solved independently, in accordance with the decoding of the codes displayed on the display. If the measures taken have not led to a positive result, it is recommended to perform a service test for a more complete diagnosis. Thanks to the information received, the repair of the washing machine can be done independently. Sometimes there are breakdowns that are not provided for by error codes. They also need to be able to identify and eliminate.
Sometimes the washing machine does not react in any way when the plug is plugged into the socket: the indicator lights do not light up, the musical greeting does not turn on. The reasons for this condition can be very different. Some can be easily removed on their own, while others - only in a service center.
Why the washing machine does not turn on:
Lack of electricity is the most common cause. For various reasons, an automatic machine or an RCD is triggered. Possible outlet malfunction.
Defective mains wire. The serviceability of the washing machine's power cord is checked using a multimeter. If a problem is found, the cord is completely replaced or repaired. All connections must be made only by soldering.
Malfunction of the power button, which receives power after connecting to the network. To check its performance, a tester is also used, set to the buzzer mode. The machine must be de-energized, and the button itself rings in both positions - on and off. If it is in working order, the multimeter will confirm this with a characteristic sound. If a malfunction is found, the button must be replaced.
Sometimes the LG washing machine will not turn on due to a malfunctioning noise filter (FPS). This device is designed to damp the electromagnetic waves emitted by the washing machine that interfere with the operation of other devices. When the FPS fails, it no longer passes electric current through the circuit, as a result, the washing machine does not turn on.Serviceability checks are carried out using a multimeter. It is necessary to ring the entrance and exit in turn. If there is voltage at the input, but there is no voltage at the output, then the FPS is faulty and needs to be replaced.
Sometimes the drum stops spinning in the LG washing machine. In this case, turn off the machine, drain the water, open the door and try to turn the drum manually. If the drum does not rotate, then it is jammed. This situation can arise for various reasons. For example, LG top-loading washing machines may open doors and catch on a heating element or other part.
Sometimes the drive belt jumps off, which has to be replaced along with the bearing. The bearings themselves fail due to wear of the oil seal, which allows air and water to pass through due to the loss of elasticity. A foreign object may enter between the tub and drum and prevent rotation.
When the drum is rotated by hand, but it does not rotate from the electric motor. The most likely reason is related to defects in the control modules. It is possible to solve the problem by resetting the program, but in more complex cases, the board needs to be repaired or completely replaced.
Another reason may be the failure of the drive belt, due to breaks or loosening. Sometimes the brushes of the electric motor fail, and the motor itself turns out to be faulty under the influence of water leaks or voltage drops. More precise reasons for the failure of drum rotation are established only after disassembling the washing machine and diagnostics.
After a certain time of operation in the LG washing machine, extraneous noises may appear, as well as uncharacteristic sounds in the form of a squeak, crackling and others. The main causes of extraneous sounds can be the following:
Quite often, situations arise when, while observing all the required norms, regarding the amount of laundry, washing powder and settings, water is still drawn into the tank too slowly or not at all.
In such situations, first of all, the presence of water in the system and its pressure, the position and serviceability of the valve for supplying water to the machine, as well as the condition of the water hose are checked. If everything is in order here, the washing machine must be freed from the laundry, turned off and diagnosed in order to identify malfunctions.
The main reasons for the slow water supply:
First of all, the correctness of the washing mode setting is checked. Some LG models have a no-drain mode option that may have been accidentally turned on. Next, the drain hose is inspected for kinks and blockages. If necessary, clean it, and at the same time check the siphon if water is drained through it.
The reason for not draining the water can be a filter that is dirty and clogged with various objects. Draining is significantly hampered or completely stopped. A clogged filter often leads to more serious damage to the unit, therefore it must be inspected and cleaned regularly. In addition, some small items of clothing can get stuck in the pipe, obstructing the escape of water.
A faulty pump, the sound of which becomes quieter in comparison with the usual mode, often becomes the cause of a violation of the drain. The machine makes a noise or hums, but the water does not drain. The malfunction occurs due to physical wear and tear of the pump, designed for 3-5 years of operation. Small objects leaking from the filter can jam the impeller.
Sometimes all systems work fine, but the water is still not drained. The main cause is a blockage in the drain hose, which must be removed and cleaned. The second reason is associated with a pump that has exhausted its resource and is able to rotate only without water, dry.When water is supplied, it jams, power is lost, and it stops rotating.
To avoid such situations, experts recommend taking a number of preventive measures:
Remove all foreign objects from pockets before washing.
The weight of the laundry loaded into the drum must strictly comply with the instructions, overloading is strictly not allowed.
Use only high-quality detergents in the right amount for washing.
We recommend using a stabilizer during washing. This will help keep your equipment safe from power surges and surges.
Water leakage in LG washing machines is one of the most serious malfunctions when you need to take the most urgent measures. Leaking water can not only flood the neighbors on the lower floor, but also damage the electronic parts of the unit. Therefore, if a leak is detected, the wash should be stopped immediately and the water drained. The water supply to the machine is completely shut off.
The main reasons for water leakage in LG washing machines are:
A leak near the filter indicates poor tightening after cleaning, damage to the O-ring or thread.
Water appears mainly in the front of the machine and often spills out through the doors. This becomes especially noticeable during the spinning process. The cause of the malfunction may be a loose door or a damaged hatch seal.
If a leak occurs while draining the water, the leaking drain hoses must be replaced.
Leakage can occur due to a rupture of the inner pipe, depressurization of the connections, or a defect in the water pump. In these cases, water comes out centrally under the washing machine or closer to the front of the washing machine. If a leak is found near the rear wall, it is likely that the bearing or the sealing gland will fail.
When the flow starts with the water supply, the problem may be in the powder tray, which is clogged with detergent residues. It is possible that the inlet hoses and water inlets are also clogged.
The most difficult part of the LG washing machine is undoubtedly the control module. In case of failure, the control panel stops the execution of all functions of the washing machine. After all, this unit turns on and off the device, organizes the direct washing process, selects the mode, provides rinsing and spinning, at its command, the water is heated and cooled.
Before you independently repair the control module, you must diagnose it. In case of obvious malfunctions, the machine does not spin the laundry normally, and the error code is not displayed on the display. The lamps located on the control panel at the same time or do not light up at all. Water is not drawn into the tank even if the required mode is set. The wash itself stretches for 3-4 hours in a row without stopping and switching to other modes. There are constant freezes of the device, there are difficulties with setting the necessary programs.
These and other signs gradually cause the complete inoperability of the washing machine. If at least one of them is available, the question of urgent repair of the control module should already be raised. Self-repair is recommended only to those people who have knowledge and experience with electronic circuits. In case of incorrect actions, the module will completely fail, and with it some components of the washing machine.
If, nevertheless, a decision is made to repair yourself, you must follow a certain procedure:
The module is cleaned of sealant.
It is then carefully removed from the compartment away from the transformer.
After removal from the electronic module, the remainder of the sealant is removed.
Further, repair work is carried out.
After repair, a protective varnish is applied to the board sections.
In some cases, the module is not completely removed, only the necessary area is cleaned from the sealant, which is then repaired.
Video (click to play).
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