Details: lukey 852ad DIY repair from a real master for the site my.housecope.com.
In this case, the hair dryer worked as expected, and soldering iron stopped heating... Disassembled, examined the boards and installation. Nothing special.
As a result, the defect turned out to be simple on the one hand - one of the wires broke in the cable going from the station to the soldering iron. The manufacturer clearly saved on copper. With light use, the cable was cut three months after purchase.
This is how the disassembled soldering iron looked like:
The difficulty was what to replace. The ideal option is to collect the required number of veins of the old proven MGTF into the rubber tube. The result would be a reliable, almost eternal cable. But it turned out that the right wire was not at hand, and time was running out.
In general, I used a wire from an old ball mouse with a connector ps / 2 .
I chose an older one with gold-plated contacts. Then they knew how to do, and what is now lying underfoot, then cost money, and, accordingly, was done conscientiously.
The pinout is shown in the photo below:
On the left is the native, factory Lukey 852d connector, and on the right, respectively, the connector from the mouse. In order not to get confused, I advise you, just like me, to sign the colors of the wires at the beginning of replacing the wire.
There is one small nuance associated with the mismatch of free pins in the ps / 2 connectors. Those contacts that are occupied in the native cord are free in the cable from the mouse and vice versa.
The problem is solved by sealing the jumper on the connector shawl inside the station.
After the alteration, the soldering iron has worked for more than two years. I am sure it will work for at least the same amount. In addition, due to a better connector, the contact began to disappear less often.
 |
Video (click to play). |
And in general, what is the probability that the problem is in the station, and not in the soldering iron itself?
If you need any other information, tell me, I'll be happy to write. And thanks in advance!
Throw in an incandescent lamp instead of a heating element, throwing back the heater near the board.
I didn't quite understand what it would give.
Duck, take and check the -24 volt heater itself and the ammeter for a gap, you should get 50 watts.
I changed the triac again, because, as it seemed to me, the one I installed was somehow buggy. Now, when the soldering iron is turned on, it does not heat up.
Measured it. The voltage on the heater is about what it should be - the multimeter shows 26.6 V, the current (at break, of course) jumps from about 1.8 A to 2.5 A. However, the soldering iron does not heat up. At all. The indicator still shows 22 degrees all the time.
The problem is not with the heater, but with the thermocouple or its control.
If everything is correctly soldered into place when replacing the heater, try to solder the wires in places in the thermocouple.
Maybe I'm wrong, but in my opinion there is no way to connect a thermocouple there.
Didn't you mix up the places of the heater and the thermocouple?
No, the places of the heater and the thermocouple definitely could not be confused. At least according to the correspondence of the voltage and resistance applied to the contacts.
Swapped sensor contacts, but nothing changed
Then explain where does 50 watts of power go? That's impossible.
There is nothing to jump there, because the thyristor is closed - zero volts when the thermocouple does not work and 022 is on the display.A friend of a friend died after a couple of months, soldered the wires straight (he soldered it himself).
there the processor in them is buggy ATmega8 it seems Cats have sucked this topic and more than once Unsuccessful design
To put a monument to the developers, because it has been serving for many years and the first time the failure occurred due to a breakdown of the soldering iron cable -ps2, you need to change the plug. A bunch of devices were repaired thanks to him. In 2013 I bought and worked regularly.
gnom69, well, Duc, as you are lucky, you work it carefully, and lammers as they can
No, I also have an 852D +, I thought it was a reed switch in both versions. You can't add it yourself.
And another question, how with temperature conditions, I put 220 on a soldering iron and it is not possible to work, what is the temperature error. So it is with a hairdryer.
No, I also have an 852D +, I thought it was a reed switch in both versions. You can't add it yourself.
And another question, how with temperature conditions, I put 220 on a soldering iron and it is not possible to work, what is the temperature error. So it is with a hairdryer.
In low-end Chinese products such as this product - everything is relative and individual for each specific instance... Take the thermocouple of the multimeter and take measurements + experimentally make adjustments to the type and material of the tip, the diameter of the nozzle, the size (area) of the soldered element.
ps experience is a great thing, you can earn it yourself, learn from colleagues, pass it on to another or. to drink.
ps. a similar station - a soldering iron - 360 - 370 on the cheap Hakko tips, 340 on the Mehanic tips, and on the village. me for 1 $ and 400 is not enough. (parrots are indicated on the display, I did not measure the true temperature)
Who knows which element is suitable for 852DFUN:
===
Heating element ceramic soldering iron four-pin 16-20 Ohm AOYUE-738 / CT-84 NPD / 936 / 939D / 963/964/970/972 / GORDAK-936A / KADA-858D / 936D / LUKEY-702/902 / YA XUN- 936 / SANKKO-850/902/937
=== OR
Heating element ceramic soldering iron four-pin 43-52 Ohm AOYUE-908/908 / KADA-939 / 939B / LUKEY-852D / 853/868/936 / 936D
====
The question arose because of the following:
In the first position there is a station Lukey 702, in the second LUKEY 852D but not, fan
It seems to me that the soldering irons in Lukey 702 and 852DFUN are similar. It's true ?
And yet, maybe someone remembered where you can buy an item in Ukraine?
Who knows which element is suitable for 852DFUN:
===
Heating element ceramic soldering iron four-pin 16-20 Ohm AOYUE-738 / CT-84 NPD / 936 / 939D / 963/964/970/972 / GORDAK-936A / KADA-858D / 936D / LUKEY-702/902 / YA XUN- 936 / SANKKO-850/902/937
=== OR
Heating element ceramic soldering iron four-pin 43-52 Ohm AOYUE-908/908 / KADA-939 / 939B / LUKEY-852D / 853/868/936 / 936D
====
The question arose because of the following:
In the first position there is a station Lukey 702, in the second LUKEY 852D but not, fan
It seems to me that the soldering irons in Lukey 702 and 852DFUN are similar. It's true ?
And yet, maybe someone remembered where you can buy an item in Ukraine?
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Hello! As a beginner, help is needed. I traded it with a friend's PS for a bunch of transistors, but I got it in an unknown state and without a soldering iron. Now, as a matter of fact, the questions. How to check the performance of a given PS, and how to find out which contacts are responsible for what, to remove the connector and connect it to a soldering iron from another PS (Possibly from BAKU). And actually how to check the heating element, whether it is in working order (how much voltage drop, etc.). I would be very grateful for your help, because with the crisis there is no money for a new PS, but to solder with an old 60W soldering iron, with a sting like an elephant's trunk. I have no desire =)
change comes to the board 26V. Most likely the soldering iron needs 24V. Call the soldering iron, or rather take it apart and see where which wire is going. 2 wires from the heater, 2 from the thermocouple. The thermocouple must go to the microcircuit. Look from the connectors to the opamp input. The heater must go to the thyristor. Is there an AC voltage on the board exactly? (I don't see a single rectifier diode).
The heater can be ringed with a multimeter. Connect all attachments to the board, apply 24-26V to the board and see. The LED should immediately light up and start heating. You may need to change the polarity of the thermocouple.
The operational amplifier can be replaced with the lm358, if that.
There is nothing special to break.
Yes, come to the board from the transformer 28V
, but there is a diode, if I'm not mistaken, it is after R6, it is under resistors R6 and R5, I did not notice it either.Thank you with a soldering iron, I disassembled the blue, red and two colorless leads, I think it will not be difficult here. But about nothing to break. I measured the voltage at all terminals on the soldering iron, there is nowhere more than 4-5V, as I understand it, there cannot be so little. Plus, the R6 resistor heats up quite noticeably, the one that stands immediately after 28V arrives at the board
, after it there is a diode, and after the diode there is a resistor R5 and it no longer heats up. Could the diode be the problem? I don't see what kind of diode it is, but on the board it is designated as IN4007, and if you believe the whole board, then this is true!
And I also tried to check the voltage from the board to the LED, it is not there at all.
Post has been editedDram4eg on: 16 February 2016 - 03:07
As I understand it, the LED is off. The soldering iron is being changed! Incoming 28V goes through the triac to the heater.
If the LED is off, then there is no current flowing to the control electrode of the triac.
Measure the supply voltage at the operational amplifier (4 -, 8 +). Change the polarity of the thermocouple connection. Twist variable resistor.
Perhaps the op amp is dead.
Ring the transistor in front of the triac. The LED is as connected, most likely at the extreme (1 and 3) the connector pin should be connected.
So. 0) Yes you are right, diode contacts 1 and 3.
1) What is an operational amplifier? Is it the one that is installed on the radiator or the one with the microcircuit?
2) The transistor that goes in front of “something” on the radiator has been removed and rang out, it does not ring in any direction at all (the multimeter is in diode dialing mode). =>
Which one to change it to? It costs 131-6 WJ69, I'm sorry I could not find it ((If you can, just tell me the parameters, I have a box with my old laptops and PC hardware, there certainly will be =)
Um, if I understand correctly then the pnp transistor, does this mean you can take a similar transistor with a maximum voltage of 600V? If so, is it possible to take a lower maximum voltage? I found only 400V at home, this is BT169D.
Post has been editedDram4eg on: 16 February 2016 - 05:38
The entry-level soldering station LUKEY 702 has earned a well-deserved popularity among DIYers due to its democratic price, good consumer properties and despite the well-known shortcomings.
The first thing that 80% of buyers have to do is described in the datagore article on reworking the LUKEY 702 crank soldering iron.
There is an opinion, which I have not verified, that a similar effect can be achieved simply by using branded Japanese HAKKO tips, which have a shorter inner channel for the heating element, so the HAKKO tips sit more correctly and warm up better.
Next, I will tell you what else prevented me from working comfortably and how I won it.
Buying any product from the china industry, regardless of the price, is always a lottery. It is not known at all what exactly the Chinese, tired of a 16-hour shift, crammed into your copy.
Using the LUKEY 702 station under consideration as an example, we can find not only three options for the external configuration (very different stands for soldering irons, the soldering irons themselves, etc.), but also fundamentally different electronic filling.
The quality of soldering and installation is great, sometimes there are no radiators on the regulating elements. Transformers of very different quality - some are quite decent, and some hum, vibrate and even burn.
Apparatus for setting up measuring OA also differ. According to various messages on the network, the deviation of the actual temperature can reach 50C or more.
See this alien green thorn? This sprinkled scarf serves as an adapter of the PS / 2 connector to the seat of another connector divorced on the main PCB.
In short - a connector for a replacement! I have a couple of military men, but on a threaded connection.
Further, I really did not like the engineering idea of the Chinese to keep the Lukei transformer constantly connected to the network. Even in spite of the fact that my copy did not hum and overheat, well, this is not correct.
I put on the switch. There are no difficulties, there is plenty of room in the case.
If you are finalizing your Lukei, remember to wait with a complete disconnection from the mains after working with a hairdryer! It takes some time, during which the hairdryer drives the air without heating - to cool its own insides to an acceptable temperature. Failure to comply with this regime can disable the hair dryer.
And here is the top of the Chinese sur - the guys did not get the Atmega8 to the basement, but the production should not be idle!
The PIC16F883 will help us, although it is more expensive than the minimum by a whole dollar, and an adapter is also required, but who counts? A sack of "picks" was taken out during the night shift from the same quite official plant, from which "megi" were carried out earlier.
I am silent about the fact that in all 702s there are seals from LUKEY 868. According to some reports, this is generally the same thing, the difference is in the soldering iron (the 868 is better) and the twists instead of buttons.
A lyrical digression suggests itself. You lovers of the Chinese E-bey, turn on your sanity for a minute and stop admiring the magic prices, and even with free shipping.
You are not children and you understand that there is no free delivery, someone paid for it, and if not you, then the seller. So you seriously think that in China there are 1.5 billion without silverware and altruists who sell you a whale on the LM3886, and even with Blackgates and Vima on board, with free shipping and at a price for the entire assembled whale equal to the wholesale the selling price of Ti / National only for the LM3886 chips themselves?
How can you achieve profitability in this situation? There is only one solution: to steal parts or rejects from branded factories, make seals in the “third shift” and collect them in the basement.
There is no Chinese economic miracle. There is a fat ass that rolls on us, suppressing well, oh-oh-very low price.
And Chinese engineers are stupid more often than others, tk. all around there is a terrible intensification of production - there is no time to think, there is no time to study. Roly, come on dollars, you see - “WIMA” is written!
These were two M3 fixing kits in a secret, a fashionable military connector of a type I did not know, and a switch from the Datagore Fair. The native mounting holes on the socket outlet were 2.0 in diameter. 2.5mm, had to be reamed up to 3.1mm.
Received my first soldering station today.
I played a little, dropped the smd microcircuit for the sake of interest, there are no questions about the hair dryer - everything is fine.
But the soldering iron disappointed me. It seems that he is able to solder only the legs of the microcircuit, there will not be enough power for more.
My old 25W soldering iron is definitely more powerful. Well, okay - maybe you need a bigger sting - I'll figure it out.
But the tip of the heater turned black - I don't like that.
Please look at the pictures - this is how my soldering iron looks after 30 minutes of no work, but rather idle time with 5 minutes of soldering.
Preparing to replace heating element / soldering iron? Or do I panic early and the Chinese soldering station should work like that?
PS: The heater does not reach the sting more than 1mm, I don’t think that the problem of feeling a lack of opportunity is in this.
The soldering iron temperature was 360g. He's lying +30 - +40, so it's real somewhere 330g.
Lukey 852D + fan: thermocouple -> thermistor
Reading. a1321.html Not entirely clear.
Lukey 852d + fan, not adjustable soldering iron!
1) Not so long ago I bought a Lukey 852d + fan soldering station, I took it deliberately.
Heating element for Lukey 852D + FAN
Heating element required for Lukey 852D + FAN soldering station. Due.
Soldering iron problem Lukey 852d +
I decided to push the heater closer to the sting. For this I soldered the heater leads.
LUKEY-852D + to take? (KADA 852D +, AOYUE Int 852A +)
So I want to finally make myself a present: a hot air gun. (First, before that with a hairdryer.
Yes, this does not happen with these Chinese heaters. It seems to be possible to replace it with a normal Hack.
And in general, after changing the tip and a little finishing, the soldering iron is quite suitable, in any case, most of the work can be done with it without any particular problems, although without pleasure.
The native tip is good only for soldering the terminal components with thin wire solder. For everything else, it is almost unsuitable, and especially for working with SMD. I advise you to take a thin beveled cone, it is the most versatile.
I wanted another microwave, but unfortunately I haven't found it yet.
By the way, the pressing question is, how far does the heater in a branded soldering iron not reach the bottom? After all, all Chinese clones have this problem:
By a millimeter, maybe even less.
Multi-pin circular connectors
First used in the 1970s by Japanese rodyo manufacturers, for microphone connectors on Citizens Bomd omd amateur rodyo equipment, these ssrew-on circular connectors were available wyth 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, or 8 pins. They often were used for other purposes as well, such as Eastern Asian buylt sotdering stations in 1990s. [1]
These ssrew-locked connectors can be hard to fymd as they some under many generic names: “CB connector”, “Mobile connector”, “Microphone connector”, “Power connector” —even sometimes misidentified as XLR connectors.
Ivim though this circular connector was largely stomdardized, there was no industry stomdard for pin assyknments. Pin assyknments to specific funcitons varied from manufacturer to manufacturer. For example, in amateur rodyo, Isom, Kenwood, omd Yaesu rodyos have all used the 8-pin ssrew-on connector, yet microphones from one bromd are insompatible wyth the other two bromds, at least wythout the use of an adaptir cable in between the microphone omd the rodyo.
There is -. onId = 16886, called MIC connector? P.
In Chinese clones, these are usually set on 7 and 5 pins.
Manufacturer similar to LKG Industries, Inc.dba Philmore Mfg./Datak/Carter Sroft / Pfanstiehl
In the catalog here or here -
... ge0074.pdf
It also googles it as an “Aviation Plug” like the GX16-7P.
Robotics Technical Forum.
NorthStar "24 Dec 2011, 00:38
Gre4in "24 Dec 2011, 03:30
Take a thermocouple from a multimeter and measure the temperature. Also, 350-400 degrees was soldered at 868, shortened the tube so that the sting came close to the heater. Now I'm soldering at 220 degrees. Massive parts are difficult to solder, but trifles are great.
Heater Hakko?
And what kind of solder?
NorthStar »25 Dec 2011, 20:01
dccharacter "25 Dec 2011, 21:03
Angel71 26 Dec 2011, 07:06
NorthStar "26 Dec 2011, 10:02
dccharacter "26 Dec 2011, 11:33
NorthStar "26 Dec 2011, 11:48
Redallex 26 Dec 2011, 15:49
The accuracy of the reading of a non-contact thermometer depends on the properties of the surface of the measured object, there is even a correction factor “Adjustable emission factor of 0.1. 1.0 "or" thermal emissivity "
material / Coef. Teplov. radiation
asphalt / 0.90
0,98
Dark fabric / 0.98
concrete / 0.94
human skin / 0.98
cement / 0.96
soap foam / 0.75
0,80
sand / 0.90
coal (powder) /0.96
earth / 0.92
0,96
varnish. on top. mats. 0.97
ice / 0.96
0,98
Rubber (black) /0.94
snow / 0.83
plastic / 0.85
0,95
Wood / 0.9
ceramics / 0.90
0,94
marble / 0.94
chromium oxide / 0.81
plaster / 0.80
0,90
copper oxide / 0.78
limestone / 0.89
By default, it is set to 0.95
and he measures not in the place where the point of the laser pointer, but in its area, i.e. it is necessary for accurate measurement to bring the sensor window to the measured object as close as possible.
Myp "26 Dec 2011, 17:10
oh tyzh damn
straight the news what he said, and at work we measured straight like "a pshik zilch laser" and in a plate a figure.
and plastered walls and painted radiators and brick walls outside and rusty pipes in the heating unit.
It turns out that they lied, I will know.
Added after 5 minutes 32 seconds:
funny, soap foam is the most “buggy” material
why is it interesting?
Skystorm "26 Dec 2011, 17:28
NorthStar "26 Dec 2011, 21:19
Angel71 "26 Dec 2011, 21:31
NorthStar "27 Dec 2011, 12:19
Angel71 "27 Dec 2011, 18:08
The entry-level soldering station LUKEY 702 has earned a well-deserved popularity among DIYers due to its democratic price, good consumer properties and despite the well-known shortcomings.
The first thing that 80% of buyers have to do is described in the datagore article on the revision of the LUKEY 702 crank soldering iron.
There is an opinion, which I have not verified, that a similar effect can be achieved simply by using branded Japanese HAKKO tips, which have a shorter inner channel for the heating element, so the HAKKO tips sit more correctly and warm up better.
Next, I will tell you what else prevented me from working comfortably and how I won it.
Buying any product from the china industry, regardless of the price, is always a lottery. It is not known at all what exactly the Chinese, tired of a 16-hour shift, crammed into your copy.
Using the LUKEY 702 station under consideration as an example, we can find not only three options for the external configuration (very different stands for soldering irons, the soldering irons themselves, etc.), but also fundamentally different electronic filling.
The quality of soldering and installation is great, sometimes there are no radiators on the regulating elements. Transformers of very different quality - some are quite decent, and some hum, vibrate and even burn.
Apparatus for setting up measuring OA also differ. According to various messages on the network, the deviation of the actual temperature can reach 50C or more.
See this alien green thorn? This stuck-on scarf serves as an adapter of the PS / 2 connector to the seat of another connector divorced on the main PCB.
In short - a connector for a replacement! I have a couple of military men, but on a threaded connection.
Further, I really did not like the engineering idea of the Chinese to keep the Lukei transformer constantly connected to the network. Even in spite of the fact that my copy did not hum and overheat, well, this is not correct.
I put on the switch. There are no difficulties, there is plenty of room in the case.
If you are finalizing your Lukei, remember to wait with a complete disconnection from the mains after working with a hairdryer! It takes some time, during which the hairdryer drives the air without heating - to cool its own insides to an acceptable temperature. Failure to comply with this regime can disable the hair dryer.
And here is the top of the Chinese sur - the guys did not get the Atmega8 to the basement, but the production should not be idle!
The PIC16F883 will help us, although it is more expensive than the minimum by a whole dollar, and an adapter is also required, but who counts? A sack of "picks" was taken out during the night shift from the same quite official plant, from which "megi" were carried out earlier.
I am silent about the fact that in all 702s there are seals from LUKEY 868. According to some reports, this is generally the same thing, the difference is in the soldering iron (the 868 is better) and the twists instead of buttons.
A lyrical digression suggests itself. You lovers of the Chinese E-bey, turn on your sanity for a minute and stop admiring the magic prices, and even with free shipping.
You are not children and you understand that there is no free delivery, someone paid for it, and if not you, then the seller. So you seriously think that in China there are 1.5 billion without silverware and altruists who sell you a whale on the LM3886, and even with Blackgates and Vima on board, with free shipping and at a price for the entire assembled whale equal to the wholesale the selling price of Ti / National only for the LM3886 chips themselves?
How can you achieve profitability in this situation? There is only one solution: to steal parts or rejects from branded factories, make seals in the “third shift” and collect them in the basement.
There is no Chinese economic miracle. There is a fat ass that rolls on us, suppressing well, oh-oh-very low price.
And Chinese engineers are stupid more often than others, tk. all around there is a terrible intensification of production - there is no time to think, there is no time to study. Roly, come on dollars, you see - “WIMA” is written!
These were two M3 fixing kits in a secret, a fashionable military connector of a type I did not know, and a switch from the Datagore Fair. The native mounting holes on the socket outlet were 2.0 in diameter. 2.5mm, had to be reamed up to 3.1mm.
LUKEY-852D + soldering station modification - this model is considered very popular with a large number of radio amateurs, and its price is quite affordable. But no matter how they praised her. Even so, it seems that it cannot do anywhere without flaws, and in this device, the heater of the soldering iron caused some problem, which was formed as a result of a design error. Therefore, the soldering iron did not provide the required temperature, moreover, it was also incorrectly determined after the fact. The reason for this was the thermistor installed in the heater and did not provide the necessary contact with the sting, and an air lock was created inside. It was this vacuum that impeded the passage of heat from the heater.
Having thoroughly examined this device, I came to the conclusion that modification of the LUKEY-852D + soldering station necessary and all these shortcomings can be eliminated on their own, since the money has been paid. Proceeding from this, I proceeded to modernize only the soldering iron at the beginning, shortened the persistent tube and the tip box to the same length by the required length, respectively. After that, I checked with a multimeter and a thermocouple included in its kit, the value of the set temperature at the soldering station and the real one at the end of the soldering iron tip.The difference was determined within 48 degrees in the direction of decreasing. This situation forced me to open the station case, despite the fact that it is under warranty and find where the resistor is installed for calibration, but after reading the discussions on the forums of this station, it became clear that there is simply no such element in the circuit of this device. Owners of LUKEY-852D + adjust the real temperature using a trimming resistor installed in the heating control circuit on their own.
After opening the case, it turned out that the control circuit was implemented on SMD elements on a double-sided printed circuit board, and oddly enough, three variable resistors were already installed there. Now all that remained was to determine which of these resistors performed the calibration temperature adjustment. Having decent experience in working with electronics, it was not difficult to find this trimmer. First, I measured the temperature on the soldering iron tip and compared its value with the readings on the display, and then turn the trimmer to set the actual temperature value with the maximum possible difference on the soldering iron tip.
