Do-it-yourself spline repair of a universal joint UAZ

Well, here's 100 pounds, that was the topic. Only the search for something does not see it (or I am looking crookedly - but there are no similar questions on the combination of the words "backlash", "cardan" and "splined").

So, I just got in here to squirt my Ferdinand. So I pulled the front universal joint - it is rigid. And the back. Has a backlash in the spline connection. Backlash is less than a millimeter - you can feel it with your hand, but you can't see it with your eyes.

Having read horror stories about the cardans that fell off at speed on the UAZbook, I ask the question: How dangerous is it in general. That is, it seems like a small backlash, but on the front universal joint it is not at all, but on the rear one - is it permissible.

Well, here's 100 pounds, that was the topic. Only the search for something does not see it (or I am looking crookedly - but there are no similar questions on the combination of the words "backlash", "cardan" and "splined").

So, I just got in here to squirt my Ferdinand. So I pulled the front universal joint - it is rigid. And the back. Has a backlash in the spline connection. Backlash is less than a millimeter - you can feel it with your hand, but you can't see it with your eyes.

Having read horror stories about the cardans that fell off at speed on the UAZbook, I ask the question: How dangerous is it in general. That is, it seems like a small backlash, but on the front universal joint it is not at all, but on the rear one - is it permissible.

the gimbal falls off when the nuts are unscrewed. The nuts are loosened from vibration. Vibrations from imbalance. Is there vibration?

the gimbal falls off when the nuts are unscrewed. The nuts are loosened from vibration. Vibrations from imbalance. Is there vibration?

No vibration, nuts are tightened.

the gimbal falls off when the nuts are unscrewed. The nuts are loosened from vibration. Vibrations from imbalance. Is there vibration?

+1 Nuts like to loosen in rain and mud (grease + law of meanness), so take note. If possible, carry with you a set of gimbal bolts and nuts, if you unscrew (not quite) the thread will knock
or the bolt may break.
(with such a backlash, but if on rough terrain, you will not notice vibration)

Well, here's 100 pounds, that was the topic. Only the search for something does not see it (or I am looking crookedly - but there are no similar questions on the combination of the words "backlash", "cardan" and "splined").

So, I just got in here to squirt my Ferdinand. So I pulled the front universal joint - it is rigid. And the back. Has a backlash in the spline connection. Backlash is less than a millimeter - you can feel it with your hand, but you can't see it with your eyes.

Having read horror stories about the cardans that fell off at speed on the UAZbook, I ask the question: How dangerous is it in general. That is, it seems like a small backlash, but on the front universal joint it is not at all, but on the rear one - is it permissible.
there is still such a thing, if there is a backlash in the cardan slot, then they "run" by welding outside the cardan along the strips parallel to the slots, thus, as if the metal is heating up, it shrinks chtoli mona say! First, make 2 strips like this in parallel, then check the backlash, if there is no backlash, that's enough, if there is a backlash, then run welding! I hope I explained in detail what I wanted to say.

there is still such a thing, if there is a backlash in the cardan slot, then they "run" by welding outside the cardan along the strips parallel to the slots, thus, as if the metal is heating up, it shrinks chtoli mona say! First, make 2 strips like this in parallel, then check the backlash, if there is no backlash, that's enough, if there is a backlash, then run welding! I hope I explained in detail what I wanted to say.

It is advisable to cook not along, but in a circle, then all the slots will be crimped at once, and not just under the seam. If you cook 1-2 teeth along the side, the backlash will disappear, but exactly those 2 boiled teeth will work and will quickly eat them.

With a play of 0.5 mm, you can simply tighten the union nut and the elastic will tighten the splines. Nothing wrong with that.:)

It is advisable to cook not along, but in a circle, then all the slots will be crimped at once, and not just under the seam. If you cook 1-2 teeth along the side, the backlash will disappear, but exactly those 2 boiled teeth will work and will quickly eat them.

With a play of 0.5 mm, you can simply tighten the union nut and the elastic will tighten the splines. Nothing wrong with that.:)

It is advisable to cook not along, but in a circle, then all the slots will be crimped at once, and not just under the seam. If you cook 1-2 teeth along the side, the backlash will disappear, but exactly those 2 boiled teeth will work and will quickly eat them.

With a play of 0.5 mm, you can simply tighten the union nut and the elastic will tighten the splines. Nothing wrong with that.:)
+100 I did it myself. This is true. If along then only two or three slots will work. which will quickly develop. Besides, start bending the part with an arc, but do you need it?
Accumulated metal with chrome? Well, chromium is very much inferior in strength to the cemented surface.
Welding in a circle will help, but you can do it yourself.
Metal surfacing. Yes, I did it once. Two months later I threw out the axle shafts all the same!

The slots are not boiled, but very carefully, with a thin layer, metal is fused (such as by striking) on ​​worn surfaces, the excess is processed with a file, otherwise it will not be inserted. Repair technology, short-lived, because the weld metal is inferior in strength to the base metal. But it seems like a while.

In this case, it is essential to know what they are cooking with. If it is a simple electrode, then nothing good will come of it. But if you cook with argon, then with the use of a good additive, the hardness of the metal reaches 50 units of rockwell. I remember when I worked at a factory, in this way they restored keyways on motorcycle crankshafts.
In principle, even the SSSI electrodes give sufficient hardness, but you will die after processing the gimbal.: D

At the expense of chromium, too, your lies.
Chromium is a very hard coating, but it is porous and it is practically impossible to put chrome on the splines. Chromium will only lie on the outer surface of the splines, but nothing will get into the grooves.
Of course, there are technologies for applying chromium in such cases, but this is no longer about our honor, it is cheaper to buy a new cardan.

If you weld in a circle, how many circular seams are more advisable? And what width should the seams be?

I put 3 rings, as the backlash remained. Then I grinded off the welded rollers on emery so that the balancing would not spoil much. Now in the speed range 85.95 km / h (where it all got) the vibration is gone.
I cooked a three with a current under 110.115 amperes (the maximum for this electrode, I usually set the current under 90.100)

I put 3 rings, as the backlash remained. Then I grinded off the welded rollers on emery so that the balancing would not spoil much. Now in the speed range 85.95 km / h (where it all got) the vibration is gone.
I cooked a three with a current under 110.115 amperes (the maximum for this electrode, I usually set the current under 90.100)

Hello. I decided on such a repair. Tell people in more detail, otherwise the same questions. Most importantly, WHAT SIZE was the backlash ??

Hello. I decided on such a repair. Tell people in more detail, otherwise the same questions. Most importantly, WHAT SIZE was the backlash ??

the backlash was not sickly, I think under 0.5 mm. Although I may be exaggerating, it dangled well. Vibration with the included bridge at a speed of 85 just got. In the summer, okay, I went out and turned off the bridges, and in the winter I endured it. Vibration in a narrow range, somewhere up to 100, then subsided and under 115.120 km / h practically disappeared. But in winter, flying under 120 on our routes is not pleasant enough and the bridge cannot be turned off. And the consumption is growing sharply.
Well, I took off and welded on the rings after consulting with you. First, I disassembled and looked at approximately in what range of the pipe the spline part of the shaft runs, this is so that the rings do not fall outside this range and do not wedge the shaft if I overdo it. Oil, dirt washed away (otherwise it burns) and reassembled.I started from the edge of the pipe.
Yes, I made the notches before disassembling so that the balance during assembly was not disturbed.
Put the first extreme ring, cooled down, backlash. I put the second one on the other side, cooled down, backlash, but noticeably less. Well, I also put a couple of rings between them. The backlash did not go to zero, but it was practically not felt. I didn’t lay down one ring yet.
Electrode triple MP-3, maximum current for this electrode. The pipe is thin in the places of the groove, I was afraid to burn through.
After that I stripped the welding to the pipe in order to somehow return to balance and that's it.

Moreover, there is a problem with gaskets - there is a shortage, I ran through three stores, they round their eyes, they say they do not remember the last time they were asked, like they put everything without them. Well, I put it on, the bolts on the red thread lock (I got to tighten it every season). I don’t know if I’ll unscrew it next time or not.

Everything, drove along the highway in the speed range 80. 110, beauty. I will no longer disconnect the bridge.

I decided to try to call other cardan repair offices that are replacing slotted ones (they cut off the old ones and weld on the new ones)

As a result: in two of them I was offered slotted ones from UAZ (spare parts + work 9000-9500r). In one, the same thing, only from shnivy and at a price of 10,000 R. And two said that they could supply slotted ones from UAZ, but immediately warned about the quality of UAZ spare parts and advised to buy a cardan.
In general, I did not call any more. I made conclusions for myself.

Gentlemen, just do not be offended, but when you read your advice, your hair stands on end in one place: ai:
Turner - mills - with splines as well?: Dp:
And this is for welding and oil.
And then with a copper wire.

And then we are fools, slot-milling machines, for this we buy, in the heat we heat the parts with an accuracy of + -10 degrees. to get the required hardness.

All the methods described by you are pulled, at best, for temporary repairs in order to reach civilization and there to change the node to a new one.

Once again, do not be offended, but if you do not know the issue more or less professionally, you do not need to give advice.

I repeat once again - in this case, only a new cardan.

Cars change, friends and the forum remain. [my.housecope.com/wp-content/uploads/ext/1209]

Message Maxim 73 »19 Aug 2014, 18:42

Message Sergey LiteAce »20 Aug 2014, 07:34

Message Maxim 73 »20 Aug 2014, 17:54

Message Qigan »23 Aug 2014, 22:25

Message Troeshnik »02 Sep 2014, 23:11

Message Alexandr »03 Sep 2014, 18:24

Message alex73. »03 Sep 2014, 20:44

In a vehicle, absolutely every mechanism is important. Most of them work in dependence on each other. If a certain unit fails, serious problems with the entire car may soon begin. On machines with rear-wheel drive, an important role is played by the cardan transmission, namely its splined connection. You need to monitor its performance as closely as possible.

Cardan drive - this is the name of a shaft consisting of several parts rotating relative to each other. This rotation is provided by a specialized element called a spider. The cardan's task is to transfer rotation from the power unit to the rear gearbox. The torque from the gearbox, through the axle shafts, is redirected to the wheels. The design of cardan shafts on all vehicles is identical, the difference lies only in dimensions, as well as in the shapes of individual elements. The described mechanism includes the following components:

• crosspiece;
• a pair of shafts - main and intermediate;
• support bearing;
• elastic type coupling;
• splined type connection.

There are a number of points indicating that not all is well with the spline:

1. Strong vibrations are felt directly from under the vehicle while driving. At idle, everything will be in order - the shaft runs at almost zero load.
2. A strong play appears in the area of ​​the spline connection.
3. There is no lubricant in the area of ​​the splines.
4. A strong hum emanates from the cardan, which is not typical for any vehicle.

There are many reasons for breakdowns. Low quality of the road surface is considered to be one of the main ones. A large amount of vibration occurs on the car body while driving on a bad road. The chassis is not able to fully absorb these effects. As a result, the harmful load acts on the cardan shaft and directly on the splines.

The next reason is dirt. Deposits get into the spline part, which accelerates the wear of the mechanism. You can fight this phenomenon. It is enough to visit the car wash regularly and order a full car wash service. The high pressure of water removes dirt and sand.

Insufficient lubrication on the connecting elements. In this case, the splines begin to work under high loads. The result is the development and occurrence of backlash.

Normal wear and tear. The slots tend to wear off. This happens after long-term use of the vehicle. The optimum service life of a spline connection is 150-200 thousand kilometers. After reaching the limit of wear, repair work is carried out.

There are no elements in the driveline that can be repaired. The outboard bearing is changed in case of wear, the same is done with the cross. When it comes to the spline element, the replacement is correct. But its cost is expensive, and not every car owner decides to take this step. Craftsmen working at dealership service stations have found a number of ways to restore worn splines. Among the expensive options, the method with chromium sputtering and cutting new splines are noted.

For cars of the middle and budget classes, there is an option with the expansion of the metal and its further stretching after cooling. You will also need a welding machine. The specialist performs the work as follows:

1. The cardan transmission is dismantled. Labels are set so that the balance is not disturbed. If there is a balancing stand at the service station, there is no need to set marks.
2. The cardan is disassembled and cleaned. This is necessary for the further use of the welding. Three seams are welded.
3. After scalding, the master checks for backlash in the joint.
4. The seams are cleaned (this procedure is performed when it is not possible to use a balancing stand at the station).
5. Lubricating fluid is pumped into the required holes under pressure.
6. The propeller shaft is assembled and installed on the vehicle.

After completing the work, the driver must drive several kilometers. If all signs of breakage have disappeared, the work is done with high quality. If beating, vibrations or other signs are present, a different repair method should be chosen.

Replacement is good because completely new elements are installed, therefore, their service life is significantly increased. As already mentioned, the cost of such a service is quite high. You will also have to purchase original spare parts. Buying low-quality copies can only make matters worse.

Renovation is financially beneficial. But there is a possibility that a remanufactured part may not work like new, and its service life is several times lower than that of a new part. Each driver independently determines what type of repair is suitable for his car, depending on the financial condition, as well as on the vehicle model.

Any work must be carried out exclusively at a dealer service station. Only the most modern and best equipment is used here. This service employs the best craftsmen who regularly improve their skills when working with equipment and devices.

Should not be serviced in services located in garage cooperatives. First of all, they will not give a guarantee for the work performed. Often at such stations, "masters" remove original spare parts, and put fake ones in their place.As a result, other mechanisms fail after a short run.

Repairing a spline connection is a complex procedure that must be done exclusively at a dealer service. To do this, it is worth using only the best equipment that is available at the dealer station. Yes, service in a dealer service presupposes that the client has money. But every penny invested will pay off, because everything is done efficiently. A guarantee is provided for the repairs made. If the splines break or "lick off" during running-in, the service assumes all obligations to eliminate the malfunction.

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